I want you to know how much.I thank you for this science. I have worked on cars over 40 years d i y and never thought of this. There should be an award for brothers like you. I got normal temperature now.
Holy s*** man I have been going batshit crazy trying to figure out why my bottom radiator hose won't get hot. I'm pretty sure you solved my problem. I'm on a time out right now me and that damn thing has had words so I'm cooling off thank you thank you thank you.
Just did the same thing to mine today. Thought i was the only one who didnt like that seal leak when you blew into the hose. Nice vid man very helpful!
DId the extra O-ring trick on mine and it's still a "semi-air cooled" motor (as one sharp guy called it). So I cut a piece of 1/4 inch plywood and stuck it between the fan shroud and radiator, holding it in place by those two top bolts. After some experiencing, I found that cutting the plywood at the bottom to expose about 3 inches of radiator worked fine in the winter and early spring. But I had to make another piece--my Summer Piece--when the weather hit the 80s and 90s. The "Summer Piece" has 7 inches of lower radiator exposed, and the needle never gets past the "L" in "Normal.
Just fixed my heating issue with this. Thanks. The O-rings did the trick. Also I added a couple of air bleeds at high points. i don't know they could make a thermostat the seals like any other engine
When I changed my old thermostat with the new one I noticed the new one came with a round rubber gasket that was about 1/4 " thick that fit on the thermostat that sealed the area he mentioned. I then noticed the one on the old thermostat had mostly corroded away. This may be why you noticed the gap between the thermostat and water outlet.
Impressive problem solving. I have an issue that perhaps if you receive this message and have some insight you wouldn't mind sharing. I have a '96 B2300 and the only time I experience any heating issues is in the dead of summer when it's hotter than 90-92 degrees outside. Only then will the temp needle either get really close to or actually reach the red prompting the warning light to come on. Running the a/c makes it obviously worse as does city driving vs highway, but if ambient temp exceed 94 degrees even highway driving will not prevent overheating. So for about two months out of the year I have to be careful (due to hotter ambient temp and/or humidity); all other times the engine never overheats. I am wondering if perhaps I need to replace the thermostat, but why is it an issue only when the ambient temp is greater than 90 degrees? Maybe I need a new radiator? The fan works, but I have heard it is underpowered? Water pump? Not sure what the issue is but I'll probably start with swapping out the thermostat and see what happens. I'd welcome any insight. Either way thanks!
Water pump is only defective if bearing or seal go out, so not the issue. With col engine open radiator cap to see if there is any deposits in the radiator. If you have deposits the radiator will not have cooling ability as it normally should. While cool also look at the overflow reservoir note it’s level, check again while engine is super hot if the level goes above the hot run line you may want to clean or replace the radiator cap. Lastly, thermostat, if it’s bypassing coolant it can cause the symptoms you are experiencing . Good luck
@@michaelbragg7216 I appreciate it. No deposits on the cap and overflow stays filled as it should. I was going to swap the thermostat but before I do I’m gonna change from a 50-50 coolant mix to 60-40, maybe even 70-30 (water to antifreeze) to see if that helps, but I’ll wait until the warmer months come along since now I’m having no problems. Thanks again.
it sounded like he thinks that is the oil pressure sender a lot of people think the sender in front off the outlet is the dash sender but it is really to regulate the fuel mixture as the engine heats up as you say the dash gauge sender is the one just under the oil filter and maybe if he changed it the gauge would work again and even if the coolant was passing the thermostat eventually the engine would get to operating temp just like if the thermostat was open
You really need to make sure that port is coolant and not oil if it's directly under your oil pressure sending unit ..just saying you should really just remove your old sender and install that one in its place because I think that is where you want to get temp from .. but if you wanna rethink the system hey go for it ..
Michael Laverty I just had rebuilt the motor. That thermostat housing was aftermarket new, and defective. I ordered another aftermarket and same way. Dealer wanted an arm for one. Been 4 years now since repaired. I saw the guy a few days ago and says the truck still runs as good as new.
I want you to know how much.I thank you for this science. I have worked on cars over 40 years d i y and never thought of this. There should be an award for brothers like you. I got normal temperature now.
Holy s*** man I have been going batshit crazy trying to figure out why my bottom radiator hose won't get hot. I'm pretty sure you solved my problem. I'm on a time out right now me and that damn thing has had words so I'm cooling off thank you thank you thank you.
Just did the same thing to mine today. Thought i was the only one who didnt like that seal leak when you blew into the hose. Nice vid man very helpful!
DId the extra O-ring trick on mine and it's still a "semi-air cooled" motor (as one sharp guy called it). So I cut a piece of 1/4 inch plywood and stuck it between the fan shroud and radiator, holding it in place by those two top bolts. After some experiencing, I found that cutting the plywood at the bottom to expose about 3 inches of radiator worked fine in the winter and early spring. But I had to make another piece--my Summer Piece--when the weather hit the 80s and 90s. The "Summer Piece" has 7 inches of lower radiator exposed, and the needle never gets past the "L" in "Normal.
Just fixed my heating issue with this. Thanks. The O-rings did the trick. Also I added a couple of air bleeds at high points. i don't know they could make a thermostat the seals like any other engine
Thanks for taking the time to make the video man!!
The thermistor for the gauge is on the rear of the cylinder head - drivers side.
Changing it wont help.
Excellent video.
When I changed my old thermostat with the new one I noticed the new one came with a round rubber gasket that was about 1/4 " thick that fit on the thermostat that sealed the area he mentioned. I then noticed the one on the old thermostat had mostly corroded away. This may be why you noticed the gap between the thermostat and water outlet.
Impressive problem solving. I have an issue that perhaps if you receive this message and have some insight you wouldn't mind sharing. I have a '96 B2300 and the only time I experience any heating issues is in the dead of summer when it's hotter than 90-92 degrees outside. Only then will the temp needle either get really close to or actually reach the red prompting the warning light to come on. Running the a/c makes it obviously worse as does city driving vs highway, but if ambient temp exceed 94 degrees even highway driving will not prevent overheating. So for about two months out of the year I have to be careful (due to hotter ambient temp and/or humidity); all other times the engine never overheats. I am wondering if perhaps I need to replace the thermostat, but why is it an issue only when the ambient temp is greater than 90 degrees? Maybe I need a new radiator? The fan works, but I have heard it is underpowered? Water pump? Not sure what the issue is but I'll probably start with swapping out the thermostat and see what happens. I'd welcome any insight. Either way thanks!
Water pump is only defective if bearing or seal go out, so not the issue. With col engine open radiator cap to see if there is any deposits in the radiator. If you have deposits the radiator will not have cooling ability as it normally should. While cool also look at the overflow reservoir note it’s level, check again while engine is super hot if the level goes above the hot run line you may want to clean or replace the radiator cap. Lastly, thermostat, if it’s bypassing coolant it can cause the symptoms you are experiencing . Good luck
@@michaelbragg7216 I appreciate it. No deposits on the cap and overflow stays filled as it should. I was going to swap the thermostat but before I do I’m gonna change from a 50-50 coolant mix to 60-40, maybe even 70-30 (water to antifreeze) to see if that helps, but I’ll wait until the warmer months come along since now I’m having no problems. Thanks again.
engine coolant sensor on driver side of block at rear of engine at fire wall
it sounded like he thinks that is the oil pressure sender a lot of people think the sender in front off the outlet is the dash sender but it is really to regulate the fuel mixture as the engine heats up as you say the dash gauge sender is the one just under the oil filter and maybe if he changed it the gauge would work again and even if the coolant was passing the thermostat eventually the engine would get to operating temp just like if the thermostat was open
You really need to make sure that port is coolant and not oil if it's directly under your oil pressure sending unit ..just saying you should really just remove your old sender and install that one in its place because I think that is where you want to get temp from .. but if you wanna rethink the system hey go for it ..
Michael Laverty I just had rebuilt the motor. That thermostat housing was aftermarket new, and defective. I ordered another aftermarket and same way. Dealer wanted an arm for one. Been 4 years now since repaired. I saw the guy a few days ago and says the truck still runs as good as new.