Bathroom with a SaniFlo system - Who wrote this manual?
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- A bit of a trip getting this bathroom together. Using a Saniflo toilet and trying to sort out the information in the intallation manual takes some deciphering.
Anyway, here is part of the journey in putting in a basement bathroom where the plumbing you have to do is lower than the waste pipes of the home. There will be an update in the future.
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I used a 1 1/2" p trap insted😮 of 2". Then ran a 2" drain pipe to the saniflo.I put the p trap directly under the drain so it doesn't become a sedament trap.Theres a 2" difference if you measure them. Works just fine in my shower. No need for 2" p trap.
P-trap directly under pan gives a lot more room.
And better control of smell.
yes I have done a few you have to go directly into the trap
Hey from NY
Same here
Shimmed the pan up
3/4”
added longer bolts
Added half step for esthetics
Trap went right under drain
Then tiled
Also added access panels to get the the trap if needed
I’m 100% agree on instruction
Wow! Great video! Very thorough, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
"either bowl (Part# 003 or 007) or (083 or 087)".... those are the part numbers of the actual toilet BOWL that you have. The number should be visible on the box that the BOWL came in. You use the 84mm screws for toilet bowls 003 and 007 and the 64mm screws for toilet bowls 083 and 087.
I’ve just finished installing a uk model and it is absolute pants. It makes it look like the discharge elbow twist locks in to the Sani but it doesn’t. It’s just push fit with a jubilee clip to hold it
Thanks for this video. I've spent the last three hours trying to figure out the instructions for my new Saniflo, wondering if I was the first person to not understand what the heck is going on and why they don't give a diagram showing how the parts go together. You answered some of my questions though so thanks again.
It took me days to figure it out. I suppose once you've done a few it makes sense. I found you have to go by the diagram as much as the poorly written instructions.
@@JimDockrellWatertone I was absolutely stumped by those flexible pipe connectors that are capped on the ends. Just why?
@@pj4092 I think they double as a block off if you don't used that connection.
You are so right! We just got one and come to find out it was made in China and Sani is suing them for making a duplicate. We have the flo500w and found the same problem with the capped cupplers, not only are they capped, you have to cut it out! Lol
Good video friend, very helpfull, you saved me a couple of days work :-) and yes freakin weird documentations with this.
Thanks. Knowing I helped someone makes my day.
I'm glad I wasn't the only one. Also, if you read the directions for the extension tube, it specifies that the toilet (which the base is out of level, not flat, rocking 3/8" or more diagonally) MUST be on a 3/8" minimum riser, which makes the bolts too short. Standart lag sizes are in 1/2" incriments, so tje next size is too long for the hole depth mentioned in the manual. Luckily I drilled mine 1/2" too deep. Next, the rubber coupler clamps for the inlets... the molding of the macerator intrudes into the area the clamp is supposed to fit, the clamp head can only orient at an awkward angle, which barely works and no way to get to it once the macerator is installed. 3rd it took everything I had to get enough force on the discharge rubber coupler to keep a tiny spurt of discharge water from leaking. I don't have much trust that it will hold up over time.
Yeah, it's a pain to install. Not many options though when your fixture is lower than the drain pipes...lol.
Thank you so much for the video it was of great help
You're welcome!
I had same problem with loose tank to bowl connection. Took tank off and seated the gasket ALL the way to tank. Solved issue
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!! I just installed mine after watching several videos, including yours. Those instructions SUCK!!! Ha, ha! But the installation went great and was successful. 💪👍
Glad you got it sorted out!
Try putting your “P” trap at 45 degrees instead of 90, that will give you another 1 ½ inches of run
I had thought of that. Not sure about code so I just installed it as you see it.
I totally agree the instructions are terribly written and you answered most of my questions
Very informative, thanks. Did you raise the toilet 3/8 as instructed with extension pipe? Curious if it matters, and if so how did you do it?
I honestly can't remember now. I likely did as I usually follow instructions pretty closely.
I'm just testing before I finish the bathroom, I had some 3/8" pvc sheet I cut to fit underneath for now. The tile floor that will be installed with thinset should be at least 3/8", and the macerator sits behind the wall on the concrete, so that will make my 3/8". If both toilet and macerator were on the same flor level, I suppose I'd find a material won't absorb moisture that matches the floor, trace the profile of the toilet base and cut it out as a riser.
Now that you mention that, my set up is pretty much the same with the toilet on a finished floor and the pump on the bare concrete behind the wall. Pretty sure that makes up the 3/8" required. Thanks for the memory jog.
How did people manage years ago without a saniflow? 🤔
They didn't have basement bathrooms? Had drainage pipes deeper in the ground? Used a holding tank with a pump? Not sure.
Dropping in to see if your pooper is still working.
It's getting there.
Can't just open up the P trap a bit and reduce the depth it needs?
Very good
Thanks.
1/4" of pitch per foot of waste pipe. P-trap under the shower pan, cut a hole in the foundation for the P-trap. I just did this with a total of 60" of waste line. My thresh hold is 6" above grade. Measure 3X cut once my friend. Bowl part number is on the bowl box. 007 is the bowl part number. Diagram is straight forward. I'm afraid you aren't a DIYer.
Mine works....and if there is ever a problem, my P trap is 100% accessible. I won't have to tear out the whole shower and platform to get to it. Never thought of that did you?
Completely agree - what an incessant whiner!! Get over it and go on - please.
Sound's like the instructions aren't good. However, that doesn't mean you should improvise.
No improvising here. The plumber I had do the final hook up to the vent was pleased with the work. The point is that the instructions were so badly written.
Do you need the P trap being it's a closed system?
If you look at diagram 1AB it shows 90 out of bottom of shower directly into pump same as the sink, I asked around and was told I didn't need P traps on this system.. my guess that's where the drop issue comes in
yes, a trap is required.
@@JimDockrellWatertone cool, I was just going by the pictures in the directions that showed both the shower and sink without one.
003 and 007 are the porcelain bowl number.
Thanks!
anybody crack Saniflo's top secret method for attaching the soft close seat? Agree that their effort for instructions is disgraceful and can never recommend them for this reason.
Lo
As a professional installer (not of plumbing products) I can confirm for you... the instructions stink!!! I really think the "instructions" for this unit (same one I have) is for professional plumbing installers, since they don't have DIY step by step graphics.
You don’t need P trap for the shower drain going to the box. There are no gasses to block
It is connected to the sewage system that has gasses from other sources, like the toilet. You certainly do need a trap. Your incorrect logic would lead one to think that you would not need one on a sink too. The only thing that DOESN'T need a trap is, in fact, the toilet, as it is cast into the unit. Why then, do they make traps at all if you don't need them on other appliances?
The most important part of that installation to me my friend is connecting to my vent line, I have concrete bolts to hold it down.
I have a house that built in the 60’s with a ductile vent stack, I just have to find it and tie into it.
Screw those bolts that’s minor.
Thnx for the detailed video
Yeah, I left the final tie in to my vent to a pro. Just because of the room available and where it is. A ductile pipe would be that much harder.
I think they owe me money for finishing the assembly of the “top of the line pump toilet” the directions are horrible and the high level switch is worse. Let’s hope the hardware is a little better.
I agree. Lots of money for half measures.
Idk jack shit about plumbing, but they say not to use sharp turns or 90 degree turns or elbows they want you to use 45 degrees turns at maximum. I don’t know it that helps
Generally yes, but when that's what the equipment comes with. Well....
Make sure that that reverse flow valve is replaceable and that it is availably .. it's the first thing to go !!! ..other wise your stuck with a $ 800 dollar ..peace of crap !
Still going a year after install. Thanks for the tip.
I completely agree nonsense manual
Totally rediculus instructions on the saniflo manual
The worst directions!!!!!
You should have hired someone who knows what they are doing,it is obvious you do not!
I am not a plumber. Just a guy who makes things work....eventually. Without having to pay a few thousand dollars for a "pro". A few thousand that I don't have. But I do have time and perserverance.