Dr. Prepare PowerMax HUB! 100ah LFP Battery with Built In DC Outputs! Complete Testing & Teardown!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- In this video I test the 100ah Dr. Prepare PowerMax 12v battery and dc hub. It's a super cool design that allows you to get DC outputs on a standalone LFP battery! You can check out the battery information below!
Purchase the Dr. Prepare PowerMax HERE for $369.99: shrsl.com/3snbx
Don't forget the DISCOUNT CODE ($30 OFF): JASON30
You can Find Anderson PowerPole Charging cables HERE:
Anderson PowerPole to MC4 solar cable: amzn.to/3UK1i2f
Anderson PowerPole to 12 cigarette plug: amzn.to/3UITpdy
Anderson PowerPole to Ring Terminals (with fuse): amzn.to/3GlMYso
OTHER HELPFUL VIDEOS:
Dr. Prepare 100ah that supports 48v SERIES connections HERE: • NEW Dr. Prepare 100AH ...
How to Make Anderson PowerPole connections HERE: • Anderson PowerPole Con...
The use of affiliate links provide a small commission for me when you use them. Thanks for supporting my channel content and allowing me to do future comparison videos! More videos coming soon!
Video Timestamps:
Introduction: (0:00)
100ah Battery Testing: (1:16)
DC HUB Testing: (4:28)
Battery Teardown: (11:22)
#jasonoid #lifepo4 #solarlife 
Наука
![XO (Only If You Say Yes) - ENHYPEN エンハイプン 엔하이픈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 240712](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wBT1bKKwPTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Updated Price! $369.99 ...Don't FORGET THE $30 OFF Discount code: JASON30
...My recommended chargers I use all the time for 100ah LFP batteries!
Best budget 30amp MPPT solar charge controller: amzn.to/3OgnFKr
Best budget 20amp AC wall charger: amzn.to/3Vby5wS
Best DC to DC style charger for vehicle use (Both solar and alternator charging in one unit): amzn.to/3OgqET8
...You can Find Anderson PowerPole Charging cables HERE:
Anderson PowerPole to MC4 solar cable: amzn.to/3UK1i2f
Anderson PowerPole to 12 cigarette plug: amzn.to/3UITpdy
Anderson PowerPole to Ring Terminals (with fuse): amzn.to/3GlMYso
Amazon has better deal.
399.00 +20 dollar coupon = 379.00
Question: can I hook the hub anderson connector to a 20 amp line from the tow rig/ coach (instead of solar)? or will I need a true dc/dc converter?
@@welcometfreddysplace it will charge from 12v as well
I love the hub and the battery status. I wish all batteries like this had the same features.
Excellent review and teardown of a cool product. Like you, I really hope they come out with a 200AH model. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for all the data. If I ever plan to use something like this, I should hire you. I still get confused by the tons of fuses people put all over the place. On any case, thank you for teaching me.
Nice review! Glad to see these lifepo4 batteries becoming more affordable and the quality of some not falling off.
I agree, the pricing is excellent!
@8:25. That's awesome! I thought I was going to have to use a 120v charger and my trucks inverter when on a road trip. Instead, I only need to buy a 12v cigarette plug to Anderson cable. Thanks for the great video!
Wow, another great review, and really glad to see you doing the tear downs and reviewing batteries:) Yet another thing to consider! If you don't need AC, this battery and a cheap 100 watt PV panel gives you a really cheap off-grid system that could keep a good ICECO or Sun Frost refrigerator running indefinitely. The Sun Frost 4 cubic ft (120 quart) refrigerator uses 140 watts per day at a 90 degree (F) ambient and 100 watts per day in a 70 degree (F) and their 10 cubic ft model (refrigerator only) uses only 170 watts per day (280 watts per day at 90 F) at 70 F ambient. They are pretty expensive but the cost per cubic ft is comparable to the VL Iceco's but much more energy efficient. Maybe you could get one of these for review some day. Thanks again for another great review designed to drain my wallet!
Excellent real world numbers on the power usage for those fridges, John. I appreciate you sharing your testing numbers. I agree, with good solar input from a 100w panel one could run a 12v fridge indefinitely (I have a old video showing its possible). Add an alternate charging source and your good to go incase the sun isn't wanting to shine through the clouds!
Nice review man for real, I just ordered one using your link and the coupon code you provide, excellent deal and awesome job as well, cheers.
Really cool design. More DC input and a 100w USB-C and a battery level reader and I’ll buy this over a Powerstation!
nice battery review, and i enjoyed seeing you take it apart safely.
the little unit on top seems to be a little weird, i would have thought it would be able to work similar to a vehicle socket and have a 15 amp limit, but thats ok, if more juice is needed we can connect to the terminals instead.
thanks again
I'd like to see a 2nd updated version of this with a 20 amp direct output. APP can handle up to 30amps continuous without issues, it just needs the right wiring.
Great video Jason! Hopefully you can do a video for us electrically / battery challenged videos on how one could use it in the garage or a vehicle for camping with the required items to use it successfully. Really enjoy your videos.
I'll see what I can come up with Shelly, thanks for the tip!
I'm planning on putting on of these in my he shed to run an Accopower compressor fridge, and for phoe charging . That will free up my Montek X1000 to run a small TV I'm planning to get and a light. I think this thing is almost a game changer if you have a compressor fridge, esp at this price.
Great review and teardown. Interesting to see cylindrical cells; like Battle Born uses, on an inexpensive battery. That battery would be a good choice for a tent or tent trailer.
I was surprised to see that on the inside!
If I knew this existed I would have purchased it instead. Than you for posting this review. It increased my knowledge about these new batteries.
Glad it was helpful! I was impressed by the build quality.
A lot of great features on that thing. I'm thinking about getting one of these to use along side my EB3A and Elecaenta 120W. Seems like a painless next step.
It's a super slick design and the price is even lower now!
Great review! This product has so many great features! What would really sell to me is if they beefed up the DC input as well as the output, to enable more than trickle charging from a vehicle. If they could do 120 watts input charging this would be a drop in power system for my minivan! The only other thing I would like to see is some kind of capacity indicator built into the battery. This is a great start on what could be a super product!
Great feedback David, I think 120watts of vehicle charging and a dedicated 20amp output would be perfect!
I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on two of these tonight; just doing one last insanity check and re-watching all of the reviews. I have a minivan too. My van has two cigarette ports, so thinking I will parallel the two batteries and then have around 100 dc to dc watts combined. I did a deep dive into dc to dc chargers, but my van's alternator is only 95 amps, so I was afraid to hook up a renogy or victron charger; wasn't sure if the wimpy alternator could handle it.
100 watts charging wouldn't be too much on that alternator, that would work just fine. That will be quite the amount of battery capacity with two of these in parallel! Sounds like a fun setup! Good luck on the build 👍
Great. Except mine stopped working after 2 months and I cant afford a new one...I've sent 4 emails and received one comment back ...send pictures etc....
Just got this battery (my first LifePo4 battery!), Dr. Prepare threw in a free cordless camping fan, which combined with the coupon code make it a great deal @ $369!. The price on batteries has really been trending down lately. This battery is made by Renogy and was charged as such on my card. Super impressed so far! The build quality is really good. It will be absolutely perfect for running my 12V fridge for a very long time during camping trips. Very nice to just plug it in directly.
Really? You got a Renogy charge on your credit card when purchasing this one!? Good to know that they have some sort of affiliation with them.
@@Jasonoid Sorry my mistake - it was charged as "Dr Prepare Global", I had purchased Renogy product (a 100W panel to pair with this battery) as well so I got confused on my statement. However, the battery IS manufactured by Renogy it seems. I'm super impressed with the build quality and it seems to do everything it claims to do.
@@LiquidTurbo it did great in my testing, the teardown results we also impressive. I agree! Enjoy the battery!
nice features. all you need is a 110-volt converter and you have a portable power station.
For certain uses this is not a bad solution, camping and running a fridge or other 12v acc and with the hub still makes for a convenient one piece portable power source that has built in solar recharge capabilities and is using LiPo4 cells at a reasonable price.
Also can be expanded to a larger size battery bank for more capacity and with a Lipo4 friendly battery charger you add the ability to charge from the grid or generator.
For those going on a weekend camping trip just using lighter load 12v items or tailgating and wanting to run a 12v fridge for the day this can be a convenient grab it and go set up that does not break the bank.
Excellent review 👏
Glad you liked it! Glad to see a company come out with a product like this!
Thank you
Bought this today for $350. No tax. Free Shipping. Great deal. Thank you for the tip and your efforts on all of your videos. I also purchased the Oukitel P2000 per your recommendation. Am I to understand that using the Cig lighter to Anderson connector output from this to the Oukitel at 10amp will shut off after 1 hour? Or will it even work as an expansion battery to the Oukitel since the Anderson input on the P2000 says 12-48v @ 15a?
If you are pulling 7-10amps from the DC HUB 12v socket, it will shutoff at 1 hour to keep from overheating.
A way around this is to connect directly up to the main positive and negative terminals of the battery using an adapter so it won't shutoff until the battery is at 0% capacity.
I'd recommend something like this: amzn.to/3GWuizZ
Can you test the romoos RS 300? It seems to be quite popular. Looks close to bluetti EB3A. Thank you for the great videos.
Fantastic review. I'd love to see an internal heater to be able to bring the temps up for charging and discharging in cold temps. That would allow me to replace an AGM secondary in my overlander.
There are lots of new 'self-heated' batteries hitting the market! Maybe one of them will feature a similar HUB?
@@Jasonoid Awesome to hear. I'm surprised we haven't seen more portable power stations including heaters. I'm sure many of the next gen units will have this.
@@permagenix the AC500 was the first unit I've seen with heaters in its battery packs.
@@Jasonoid B300S battery only.
Interesting hub concept. Makes one wonder if a 3rd party could make a hub connector for specific purposes. I built and sold PC computers back in the day of interface cards and that really changed the game. I've often wondered why some of the solar generators don't offer a "slot" for user purposes. Maybe this would be the way to start.
Wow, great idea! Love the idea of a "port" that could be used for something like this 😊
Thanks!
Thanks for the donation! Always helps out the channel :)
Thanks for all the great information you deliver. Bought a Setpower refrigerator and this seems a perfect fit for it. Any estimate on how long it will run before needing a recharge? Also I will need to charge with charger connected to a Honda generator. Recommendation for fast chargers & how to calculate charge time? Keep up the great work!
It should run a fridge a few days, all based on how hot it is outside. To charge up the battery using an AC charger, a 10 amp charger will take 10 hours, a 20 amp charger will take 5 hours.
Last video I suggested give me every thing without the battery. This is getting close .Finally someone thinking outside the box.
I totally agree!
@@Jasonoid I do hope you read my response to your last video. An RV all-in one unit minus the batteries . This is getting close. A question? to charge the battery you would not go direct from car alternator ,but use the house battery as a buffer?
@@tim1299 I get hundreds of comments daily so it's hard to keep up with them. I don't even get notified about all of them so sorry if I missed your other comment. Correct, in order to charge from the alternator you would connect this system to the starter battery. I'd recommend a full DC it DC charger for faster charging than 50 watts. I use the Kisae DMT1250 for my charging of standalone 12v LFP batteries in my vehicles.
@@Jasonoid My alternator feeds into my Progressive Dynamic , then to my house batteries . I could piggy back off a house battery. .The idea last week was give me inverter/charger ,12 volt hook ups with fuse block, 120 volt with breakers, cigarette plug-in, usb plug-ins , charging pad, bluetooth for upgrading firmware, and good informative information center.panel. I'll buy my own batteries . Thanks .
@@tim1299 so basically a full "all in one" charging system with both DC and AC outputs. You got a good idea there, you just need to get the product created!
Could you Daisy chain this to a bluetti or exo flow? Not just charge off it, but Daisy chain and allow the bluetti to charge it and monitor levels? My old yeti 400 lead acid allowed me to do this with a deep cycle battery hooked up...
Really cool idea from doctor prepare. Does it support dual charging? From the hub and the M8 screws.
Yes, you can charge it up to 50 amps continuously (I estimate that to be about 100 watts from the HUB and about 600 additional watts from the main terminals, 700 watts total)
Nice job on the teardown, Jason! If I were to use this as my RV's house battery, how should I charge it with my tow vehicle's alternator, thru the hub or via the terminals?
The input on the HUB is extremely slow, only 50 watts charging. I would purchase a DC to DC charger and charge it through the main terminals. I have this charger and it's awesome! ruclips.net/video/HdBd0_SJf0A/видео.html
Ty sir
Jason, great video. Could you actually connect directly to the anderson plug and bypass the dc controller so that say you were using the battery as an add on to a larger Solar generator and bringing in the current through the DC input that was no more than 10 amp such as the Car charger port on a Bluetti 200P. Then you would not be limited by the 60 minute limit and let the bms cut off current one voltage dropped enough.
So I wouldn't recommend by passing the DC hub and using the APP port on the top of the battery because it only has 16 awg wires, it's not meant for much power to be pulled for a long period of time. I'd recommend just connecting to the main positive and negative terminals of the battery or opening it up and modifying the internal 16awg wires to something bigger.
@@Jasonoid Thanks
Jason, you are my new favorite battery reviewer. Can you please produce a video on how to best use this battery as an expansion to an Ecoflow? Can I use this instead of one of their more expensive expansion batteries? Thanks!
Which EcoFlow model do you have that you want to 'expand'?
I second this. I'm thinking of using this to expand a Delta 2. Seems like I could charge this, slowly, via the Delta 2 dc output. And also charge the Delta 2 via the dc output on this. Slow but probably more efficient as its dc to dc.
Very nice...the wallet-fingers are twitching a little, but I might be good now for backup power. Thinking about it...
I would love to see companies take this idea and keep making it better! Love the built in HUB idea :)
Another great review Jason. I saw these about a month ago and was hoping you would do a video. Thinking about getting this to upgrade the battery on my teardrop. With the hub I could then also use it in the van when we go on day trips to power our 12 volt fridge. What charge controller would you recommend to connect directly to the battery to get more solar and what AC charger would you use to charge it up at home?
I recommend using a 30/40amp Epever MPPT charge controller, you can see them here:
amzn.to/3OkVsC5
AC chargers are harder to find at a good price, I recently have been using this one, it's worked really well:
amzn.to/3OkIMek
@@Jasonoid Thanks so much, Jason!
Really appreciate your content. I just purchased one of those HF Jupiter 2000 Watt pure sine wave inverters. No batteries yet or solar. lol I was originally thinking for emergencies only with the several lead acid batteries I already have. This is not for mobile use so I'm wondering if it would be smarter to start out with 24v or 48v. Now I'm considering eventually having a solar system in my garage for future PHEV charging etc. Is it foolish to start out with 12v setup inverter and just go higher voltage from the get go? I know it's not possible to answer all comments but maybe some of the experienced folks can opine. And again, a HUGE THANK YOU!
If I was going to build a system of significant size I'd purchase 48v server rack batteries and the All in one inverter, ac charger, and solar charger. You can't beat those right now for the price. Here's a good video about it:
ruclips.net/video/fdeZz4QvxG0/видео.html
@@Jasonoid TY! Yes, reality is setting in. I went from wanting to back up a closet UPS for router, surveillance, switches etc. to grandiose ideas of possibly cutting my electric bill. Whole house back-up is tempting but the ROI is a crap shoot when your over 65. lol Appreciate your time.
If you want to go small scale first and not worry about a huge setup, a 2000w inverter and 12v battery setup will work just fine (100ah, 200ah, or 300ah). You'll just need to plan for large cables since you'll be seeing around 175 amps through those cables. If you went with a 24v system you'd have half the amperage to worry about.
I'm not able to find a good answer to if (or why not) this battery can be charged through the cigarette lighter port on the hub. I have a NOCO Genius10 smart charger with a male cigarette lighter adapter that I use as the connection to charge my trailer battery. The female end on the trailer is a short run directly to the battery. Works well. I'm trying to find out if I can do the same the the cigarette lighter port on the Dr Prepare. It has a 10amp output rating so I'm guessing there is some kind of over current protection, but the NOCO is a 10amp charger so I would think that would not be a problem. I also believe that the cigarette lighter port is unregulated, but have not been able to confirm that. So, what do you think? Would a 10amp charge through the cigarette lighter port work? Great review!
Buy an Anderson PP extension cable, plug it into the top of the battery, set the output block in a cool location (with a fan on it?) and I bet you don't have the same problems with it overheating and shutting down. That also lets you connect further away from the battery, if need be.
That might be doable! Good suggestion 👍
I see that those Anderson connectors come with different amp ratings. Would it matter what connector is on the extension cable that I buy? If the plastic parts are the same size would it matter if the extension connector was rated at 45 A - would it still connect to the Anderson on the battery and on the hub?
@@BSerrell4 yes, they are all interconnectable. They just allow more amps or less amps
@@BSerrell4 - There are different size Anderson connectors, with different ratings for what amperage they can carry. This battery uses the smallest of these but that is still more than adequate for the regulated output of those USB and accessory plug connections.
@@jasonbroom7147 I was less concerned about the amperage being adequate than I was about whether the plastic parts would still snap together if the amperages of the small powerpoles were mismatched. But what I seem to be hearing is that the PP 15, 30, and 45 all use the same plastic housing, and that is what is on the Dr Prepare hub, right?
Another amazing review! For the APP input it says up to 4.2 amps.. what's a good panel for this? most 100W panel according the specs operate higher than that (like the Renogy 100W)
It will limit the amperage automatically to 4.2amps, so you can't go over that. For the most power you'd want to chose a panel with a higher Vmax power. Brands like BougeRV, and RichSolar usually have slightly higher voltages and lower amperage ratios.
@@Jasonoid thank you.
Hi Jason. I was looking to buy a pecron e600lfp to take camping. I was going to use it for my 12v refrigerator and various small lights, etc. I saw this video and this looks like a great option for the refrigerator but could you run both together? Running solar to one, or the other and have one pass through charge the other? Extra capacity would be great. I'm just not sure how long the pecron would last with limited sun.
What do you mean by running both together? Like connecting the battery to the Pecron to make it last longer?
Great review, how would you charge with car lighter, and is this a viable option to enable charging while driving, the cig lighter in the 4Runner puts out 100 watts. Thanks
You'd want to purchase an adapter, something like a "12v socket plug (male) to Anderson Powerpole". I'm sure you can find one online somewhere, they are common connections.
Totally buying one of these to run a compressor fridge in my he shed. Recently picked up a 120W Elecanta solar panel with a 24ish volt Voc that might be great to charge it. Could you (or anyone else) recommend a cheapish 30A AC charger for it for when solar isn't available?
They dropped the price a ton for black Friday, my discount code is still valid too. Power Queen makes a great 20amp charger. I haven't seen a 30 amp model. Links in the pinned comment
Yes akb👍 🔋⚡🔌💡
Jason, Would this DC module version fit into the Licitti power box or is it too big versus regular Dr Prepare battery? ? Licitti a little bulky for one of my vehicles so I would just pull it out of the box for that car and still have the dc module version to use. Please help.
I dont think this one will fit, it's a bit bigger than the standard Dr. Prepare battery.
Great review! I also like the "hub" idea, makes it easier to connect anything that has a cigarette lighter plug. I am thinking of a 12v portable fridge connected directly to the battery.
I am debating about modding the battery to have an Anderson PowerPole port flush mounted so I can pull 20 amps continuously.
@@Jasonoid Would the Powerpole be connected directly to the battery where the hub attaches to the battery?
@@JT-lq4yd nah, I was thinking id take the lid off the battery (super easy since it's screwed down) and then hook up a new lead from the main pos and negative. I'd use 12awg wire and would fuse the positive line with a 25amp fuse.
@@Jasonoid I see what you mean, you will be giving the battery an upgrade as the original wires that feed the powerpole are on the thin side.
I'm wondering if this would work with the Licitti battery box. Not sure if you've seen it. Thought it might be a cheaper alternative to a portable power station.
You don't need this one for that battery box, I found a better priced option to pair with it haha.... I am just finishing up testing that battery box right now! Super impressed with it actually... Video on it next Friday!
HI Jason, I have a ICECO JP50 fridge, if the fridge stops pulling power and then the compressor starts again say 5 hours later, will this battery power the fridge. I mostly want to power my DC fridge continually without having to worry about resetting he fridge. Thanks in advance.
It will turn off the DC HUB output after 2 hours if there isn't a load. The main positive and negative never stop putting out power. Most fridges that I use will run the compressor every 30 to 45 minutes so I don't think that is a problem. This battery should be an excellent option for running a 12v fridge.
Wondering if I could add this as additional storage to my Bibene or a Jackery 300. Running off the cigarette lighter port into either of the power stations. That would be a lot more power for a decent price.
Yes, that's a great way to expand the power of your Jackery power station! It would charge at around 80 to 100 watts off this batteries 12v socket.
Great review and your code still works! Thank you!
I would prefere to run it on DC POWER but I just can't imagine how to do that. I have a RESMED that is 24 v and I have a box on the cord that reduces the power to 12 v. I like to test my power stations to see how many nights I can get out of each one. I imagine I would have to have alligator clips for the battery with a box 24v to 12v and then the fitting to go into the c-pap machine. I don't know. Unless there's another way. Thanks Jason
They do have plenty of 12v to 24v converters that are affordable. Have you tried running it off 12v? Does it function at all?
Thank you. I'm strongly considering this product. I just did a 1 week trip in my van, using two 12 volt fridges. 1 I use as a freezer. Unfortunately, my power stations, which are only 600 watt could not keep them running for more than one night. That forced me to a state park for power on the 5th day. No sun available for my portable solar panels.
To make a long story short, this seems to be the route for me to go just to keep those fridges running. Then I could eventually add roof solar & the necessary items to use these (I'll order 2) batteries for a complete solar system? Do I understand this correctly?
Thanks for your review!
That should work well to power both fridges, some fridges pull more power than others, just make sure you have them set to ECO mode so they pull under 7 amps
@@Jasonoid Thanks! Yes, I run them in Eco mode. I'll test them tomorrow to be sure that the amps keep stable. 👍
Another question. Can I charge these batteries with a typical car battery charger? I have a Cen Tech that can trickle charge. Harbor Freight item.
@@TexCynRVLife since you already have power banks you could buy a regular lithium battery and keep it toped off with that. You just need one adapter that converts your amp output to 24 amps out the battery into your power bank. Just saw a hack video .
Hi,
Is it possible to use one of these to power dashcam parking mode?
I can't afford the ready made celllink neo lifepo4 dashcam batteries.
From what i understand i just need to check it's got passthrough charging? Then hardwire it to the car fusebox, and then connect the dashcam to the battery. Does that seem right?
Many thanks
Just purchase an affordable 12v Lifepo4 battery and put this on the terminals, then you'll have no worries about pass through charging being disabled:
a.co/d/3CDudtJ
i finally got 700watt renogy inverter 1400 watt surge for my dr. prepare battery and now i find out i need a fuse.
do you have one to recommend?
So to run my home theater off of this I would need 4 of these with supported solar panels? Everything is on 1 15AMP circuit now but probably runs at 80% on that. I would love to move my theater to off grid only if possible. Then I would only be using the grid for a couple lights and refrigerator. My current power bill has been averaging 700 a month. It’s getting out of hand here. I pay almost 30 cents a KWh.
You'd also need an inverter to connect to all the batteries. Do you already have one?
It would have been great to have included a useful PD output (30w is just sad) and more than 4a input on the powerpoles from the hub.
I agree it would have been nice to see more power output and input from the HUB. As a first gen design, this was a good start! Hoping to see improvements over the next version!
So with the built in 100w charge controler, is it safe to use a 120w solar panel to charge it or should I stick with a 100w panel?
100 or 120 would be fine.
What would you recommend for a budget solar panel that would work when connected to the hub or to the battery terminals using the Epever charge controller?
You'd probably be safe plugging in a 200w solar panel to the HUB since it will limit the amperage. I'd recommend any panel that doesn't go over 25VOC. Here are some options: amzn.to/3OD1b6A amzn.to/3gt2Sa1 amzn.to/3U22gWo
@@Jasonoid Thanks for your help.
Temperature sensors: Where are sensors located? Is the low sensor on the battery and high sensor on the bms?
I show that in the teardown portion of the video, all sensors are glued to the battery if I remember correctly.
I have a quick question. In your opinion how does this stack up against the Licitti battery box? These are the two I am looking at. Both will mainly run my fridge and charge small electronics. About the main diff is the Licitti will have a built in 1000 watt inverter if I ever needed it.
I have a full 'unlisted' video about the Licitti battery box. It's an awesome product! ruclips.net/video/6ftkCfbLJDg/видео.html
I did take the video offline since I had some viewers complain that their credit card got charged and the product never arrived.... Purchase at your own risk
@@Jasonoid Aaaah copy that. Yeah don't feel like playing that game. Appreciate the heads up. Well, I think this is my last question lol. I plan on running this in my 4runner. It has a inverter in the back. Can I plug in a wall type charger to charge this up as I drive between camping/off roading locations? I don't want to mount anything permanently just Yet as I have 3 different rigs I will use at any given time. Thank you for all your help.
@@petyweestraw you could use something like this connected to the main terminals: amzn.to/3tqZ8Mr
Question. I've had this battery for a couple of weeks now. Ran it down to zero and charged it back up to 100%. The SOC led's needed to be calibrated. Now it shows 4 bars.
The issue i'm having is that when i shut off my inverter or when i charge it and go to re-connect it, i find that the battery is shut down.
This doesn't happen right away, usually after ten minutes or so. Also, when there is a load (inverter) it runs fine. Not crazy about having to jump start it all the time but if this is normal behavior i guess i could live with it. Just wondering if i should return it (window closes on July 10th). Thanks in advance, love your vids by the way!
The battery meter is based on voltage. Voltage for LFP drops from 14.6v down to 13.5v within minutes of charging. This is normal behavior and one downside of having a battery meter designed around battery voltage alone. It only gives you a rough estimate. Once your battery gets down to 12v, you know it's empty and you need to charge it up.
So what would this be used for? Could you run a 12v portable fridge like Iceco? Can you use it like a traditional dual battery where you can hook up camp lights in the back of a truck, can it charge by solar ?
That's exactly how I would use it, overlanding or car camping.
Yes ( anything 12 volt without a Hugh draw)
Yes
Yes
The video says what it can do and what solar it will work with . Dual battery use an isolater.
With only 100 watt panel wouldn't it take 12 hours of sunlight to recharge it?
Would it be hard to change that so it can accept 500 watts or a thousand Watts? I haven't seen the sun in three or four days.
You can charge the battery faster from the main positive and negative terminals (up to 50amps), the hub charging port is meant for trickle charging.
Can I charge this through the hub with a cigarette lighter adapter plugged into my vehicle while driving and have a 100 watt solar panel with charge controller connected to the terminals and be charging at the same time? Im just looking at bieng able to charge the battery a little quicker while driving long distances. I have a 100 watt solar panel on my minivan. We intend to use this car camping. Thanks
Yes, you can charge via the main terminals and the HUB at the same time.
Can this be hooked up to a 120 watt solar panel thru the built in hub while it is powering a 12V car fridge?
Yes, but it will limit the charging power to 100 watts or under. Most 120w panels put out around 95 to 105 watts anyways so probably a good plan.
I'm new to this concept and I was looking at the pecron e2000 then I saw this video. .. What is the difference I should be looking at? I'm wanting something that I can use for powering my trailer or items in my house when needed. Is this essentially the same thing on a smaller scale, but without the regular wall outlets? Please help me understand
The Precon E2000 has the batteries, AC inverter, chargers built into it's design. It also has the screen that shows you what's going on. For someone just getting started in this type of thing, I'd recommend a power station since it's just plug in play and you don't have to deal with putting together large custom cables and picking out components that work with each other. A raw battery like this Dr. Prepare is meant for running 12v appliances like camping gadgets. To get the full 2000 watts from it you'd have to purchase two of them and put them together.
@@Jasonoid Wow! Thank you for the fast response. The E2000 requires an ac charge controller to charge it though correct? I can't just plug it into a wall?
@@Livingintentionally812 it comes with 1 wall charger in the box so you don't need to purchase anything.
Could you use this to charge a AC200 max?
Jason I have this same battery without the power hub but How could I power my c-pap machine with this battery without the power hub? I have this battery above and the same battery without the space for the power hub.
Are you planning to run your cpap on DC or AC power?
Something way to charge this? I know it can charge via solar but is there a better/faster way? Thanks for a great review, definitely interested in this.
At the end of this video (ruclips.net/video/UDf2BI_VIss/видео.html) I showed a couple different charging options, links are in the video description if you are interested.
@@Jasonoid thanks! One more question. When you first get this do you need to drain this down to 0% then charge it to 100% like with Bluetti, Jackery etc power stations or do you just top it off when you first get it?
@@ryanmiller4890 just charge it up
so you getting about 6amps max doing solar charging ? i know depeneds on sunny days and peek of the sun
Yeah, it's pretty limited with the HUB. You can always bypass the HUB with a large solar charge controller and use the main pos and negative terminals of the battery.
I've read some where that LiFePO4 batteries need 14v+ to charge and if they were used in a vehicle to power your fridge or other devices, that you shouldn't use your vehicles charging system/Alternator to charge them with.
They recommended using a LiFePO4 specific charger that puts out 14v+.
If I were to use the LiFePO4 battery in my Jeep, how should I keep it charged?
Correct, LFP batteries are not designed to be plugged directly into the vehicle charging system since they aren't the same chemistry. This battery can be plugged into your charging system since it has a built in charge controller in the HUB, but it only trickle charges at 50 watts. I use this combo unit (DC to DC charger and solar charge controller) in my setup and it works great! amzn.to/3OgqET8
@@Jasonoid Thank you. I have the 100 ah Ampere Time LiFePO4 and will be using West Mountain Radio rigrunner distribution panel to feed ham radio, 12v fridge/freezer and other small things
That DC to DC charger will help you keep those gadgets running! 👍
Since the 12v output on the hub is unregulated, should I avoid plugging my Dometic refrigerator into it while the battery is charging via the alternator thru the Renogy dc-dc charger (when the voltage may be as high as 14+) ?
Wouldn't that be the same voltage as when you have it plugged into your 12v socket in your car? I run my fridges off my 12v vehicle sockets all the time at 14.5 volts and they work great! 😁👍 I wouldn't worry about it
@@JasonoidThe Dr Prepare is charging from a Renogy dc to dc 20A charger set for charging a LiFePO4 battery, so the voltage from Dr Prepare might climb above 14V. I don't know if Dometic cares if the voltage is higher. I guess I'd better check with Dometic. Meanwhile, if the Renogy is charging the Dr Prepare while I drive, I'm plugging the Dometic into the car's dashboard socket.
@@BSerrell4 your car alternator will charge your car battery to 14.8 volts (maybe even higher). The DC to DC charger will charger your Dr. Prepare battery to 14.6 volts. You won't have any issues running your Dometic off either power source while charging.
QUESTION: Should I plug my solar panels into the Andersons on the HUB, or into the Andersons on TOP of the battery (without the hub)?
The charge controller is in the HUB. If you connect directly to the top of the battery, you are bypassing the solar charge controller and the battery won't charge properly.
@@Jasonoid cool, thanks 👍
@@Jasonoiddoes this mean if I take off the hub and attach Anderson’s from my HQST controller I can charge feom more than 100w panels? This would help me to not have to use alligator clips. Will that work?
@@Cabernet2000 you can charge with lots more power using the main pos and neg terminals, bypassing the hub.
So, can I charge this via the terminals and leave the hub off entirely? I have no use for the hub, but having this as aux power in my car to run all my radio / emcom digital equipment and station. Currently I use West mount radio isopwr+ w/ a optima, 100w HF rig, 50w U/VHF rig and it's hardwired thru the isolator to the car's battery so it charges when the car runs, and disconnects vehicle battery when the engine is not running but still allowing me to operate off the aux battery. Could this be a direct drop in?
Save a little bit of money and go with their cheaper battery without the hub option, it's a great battery as well:
ruclips.net/video/dd1W8_tdl2c/видео.html
You imply that this does not need a dc to dc charge controller between a vehicle’s alternator and this battery’s charging input. Is that so?
I found more info in other comments, I.e. best to charge this while driving by using a dc to dc controller and charge through the main terminals for faster charging. With a 12v input to the hub, (and no dc to dc charge controller) the hub’s internal charge controller will trickle charge the battery, not pump it up as much. Right?
02:44 Can this be charged from AC (without alligator clips) or from 12 volt dc car input?
If you want to use the built in charge controller, you'll need to connect into the Anderson PowerPole port on the HUB. You could use your own charge controller and connect to the main positive and negative terminals of the battery as well.
So does the hub have a built in charge controller for solar?
Yep, it can handle a solar panel up to 25VOC and 100watts.
Hello, so I recieved the battery and fully charged it with a victron 5 amp charger. The indicator light on the top of the battery only lights up 3 out of the 4 lights. The victron shows it is fully charged.... So the max charge voltage from the victron is 14.2 volts. The max charge voltage for the battery is 14.6 volts. What do you think the problem is, a defective battery or a voltage charge problem? I am using a Victron Blue smart 5 amp charger. Thanks
The charger is thinking the battery is full before the battery hits the max voltage. You need to adjust the charging setting for the Victron to get the battery to 100%. 14.2v is like 98% full so it's not far off... it would probably be fine leaving it at the current setting.
Hmmm.....can you charge via solar and ac battery charger at the same time? I would think that you could but not 100% positive.
Yes, one via the Hub input and the other via the main battery terminals.
Trying to figure out a way to run a small ceramic heater in the winter time. Any ideas with this setup?
How many watts is the heater going to use?
@@Jasonoid 750 at most
@@petyweestraw if you want to run that heater for 4 hours you'll need around 4kwh of batteries (after efficiency losses of your inverter). That's a lot of batteries, in fact that's like 3 of these batteries in parallel.
Hmmmm well diesel heater it is lol.
@@petyweestraw yep, that or electric blankets or propane!... Even a heat pump will move air using less electricity! Haha
Wondering, if battery is recharged with NOCO battery charger . Will the BMS hub when attached, realign battery's
This battery has a built in BMS so whenever it's charged it will balance out all the cells inside automatically. No need to worry about that.
@@Jasonoid Thank you!
would this work with a trolling motor for a boat? sorry just bought a tobin inflatable and looking to get a trolling motor, though this battery might be overkill or too heavy?
It's rated for 100amps continuous. It will run 100amps for 1 hour, or 50 amps for 2 hours, or 25 amps for 4 hours. Look at the trolling motor and see what amperage it's rated for. That's usually at max power too.
@@Jasonoid its rated at about 52, does that mean this battery will work for it but just last longer because its 100ah? or maybe i should find a 50ah battery
@@user-rp1vu1gk5u at full throttle that motor will run for 2 hours on this battery. If you went with a smaller 50ah battery it will last 1 hour. I'd recommend the bigger battery so it's less stressed.
Too many comments to check if this has already been asked, but is the charge controller PWM or MPPT?
It's advertised to be a MPPT charge controller.
does the hub need to be connected via solar with anderson? or can i plug anderson from panel directly into the anderson on the dr prepare with the hub not installed?
The hub has the charge controller so you'll need to connect your panel there. You can bypass the hub and use a larger separate charge controller on the main pos and neg terminals if you want.
@@Jasonoid 100w via solar is going to be too slow for my uses. using this as a battery for trolling motor. can you please recommend an ac charger? not too expensive, less than $100 if possible. something that can charge the battery in 5 or so hours.
@@user-rp1vu1gk5u here's a 20 amp charger that will charge within 5 hours, right under $100.
amzn.to/3MVraau
is this equivilant to a 700 watt hour solar 'generator'?
This is equivalent to a 1280wh power station.
@ 6
6:27 how do I get ahold of the cord you used for the fridge?
Its a custom cable, I made a video here: ruclips.net/video/Ylml-ogE3FE/видео.html
Is it the battery or the hub that’s limited to a 100w solar panel? Can I use my own MPPT controller with my 200w panel?
The built in HUB is limited to 100 watts input. You could connect your own charge controller to the battery and charge it much faster up to 50 amps / 600 watts +
@@Jasonoid Thanks!
Can you use a 12-24 converter to charge faster in your vehicle?
As long as it doesn't go over 25v it should be good to charge faster.
@@Jasonoid and I just connect it to the powerbub where the solar panels go in right? Forgive my lack of knowledge.
@@Eli_goes_camping yep, it will charge around 100 watts instead of 50 watts
@@Jasonoid thank you so much.
I ordered this battery with LED readout 8 days ago from your channel. I recieved the battery today, 11/26/22. Battery arrived with no visible damage. When I first pressed the LED readout, the screen was dead. I checked the battery vor voltage with voltmeter and the battery is dead. What advice can you give me please? Thanks!
I believe the owners manual states that the battery arrives in a sleeping state, you'll need to apply a charging voltage to the battery to wake it up. It should turn on after that.
Thank you Jasonoid! The manual is scant and didn't mention this. You may have mentioned the need to "wake up" the battery in your video.
@@wolveslick so it worked? The battery is now showing 13volts at the terminals?
Last video I saw where you tore one of these down, the quality was very low. Did something change?
You'd have to clarify which battery and video. Maybe the TIMEUSB battery? This one is built great.
@@Jasonoid Dr. Prepare ruclips.net/video/enSGfimmWxk/видео.html
That's Will Prowse, hes a much bigger RUclipsr. Will's battery had one cable pinched in the lid during assembly, non of my batteries I have torn apart have ever had that issue.
I just bought this product. Charged it up. Charger says FULL and shut off. SOC 4 lights on top of battery will only show 3 lights. Not sure why. Waiting for support to give feedback. Owners manual only shows 5 year warranty. Website did not allow me to register product. TBD on that.
Each battery charger is a little different. Maybe your battery charger didn't go all the way up to 14.6v? With only 4 sections it's hard to get a decent reading on battery capacity. I'd say it's pretty full if your battery charger stopped charging.
Dr prepare shows the ability to connect laptops lights , how’s that possible of this only offers dc input ?
New laptops charge with USBc nowadays. The led lights use the normal USBa ports. But yeah... No AC inverter like a wall outlet.
@@Jasonoid Cool thanks
can i charge it back up with a gas generator?
Indeed
i was going to pull the trigger but ive read several comments that you cant use it to charge other power stations because it will turn off after only an hour?
Yes, it will turn off the output, but you still have the main terminals you can use (those never turn off).
@@Jasonoid so then i should buy the battery only without the hub and buy an inverter that plugs into the terminals? my plan is to use it to power smaller power stations like the ecoflow river 2, i believe its called daisy chaining? thanks for any help. you do good work.
@@markjoyous3525 yep, I'd recommend just using a regular 100ah battery for $299. Power Queen and Redodo make high quality - budget 100ah batteries.
Can you use this battery on a trolling motor?
If it doesn't pull over 100amps or 1280 watts you should be good. The motor should have a power rating on it.
@@Jasonoid good to know thanks!
Can you use this battery to charge bluetti
Yes, it will charge a Bluetti around 100 watts.
Passthrough charging?
Yes, you can charge it and discharge it at the same time.
Can I connect this to the bluetti d050s charging enhancer and the connect to the bluetti AC200p?
It would actually charge at the same speed if you just connected it to the AC200P with or without the charging enhancer. The charging enhancer is meant for higher voltages from solar panels. No charging enhancer needed. Unless you wanted to connect both charging ports to the same battery at the same time to dual charge.
@@Jasonoid ok thanks. I just need a little extra juice for overnight. What would be the approximate run time before the bms shuts the battery off?
It would charge at 120w from the battery and would take 18 hours to fully charge, it's a bit slow. The extra run time would depend on what you have running.
@@Jasonoid ok thanks. Not really trying to fully charge, just a little extra power till the sun comes up for solar. Also can the battery be connected to the aviation port? I have a b230 connected to the a/c port with the enhancer. But I can't seem to find the battery clips to xt90 to connect to the aviation plug
@@mrkevin365 you may have to make your own connection if you can't find it on their website. They have XT90 adapters online on amazon.
Is it possible to pull 24v out of this? How?
Here is a video about taking a battery to put out 24v using a few different DC to DC converters: ruclips.net/video/I78RxjRXTn4/видео.html
How can I charge this off my alternator?
Using a DC to DC charger will get you great results, I have an old video about mine:
ruclips.net/video/HdBd0_SJf0A/видео.html
Here is a 30AMP charger on Amazon
Ardroit 14.6V 30A LifePO4 Battery Charger Trickle Charger Smart Charger and Maintainer for 12V LiFePO4 Lithium-Iron Deep Cycle Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Desulfator
Thanks for sharing!
They really need to change their name, from Dr. Prepare to Dr. Prepper...... has a better flow ;)
Probably was already taken somewhere haha
Jason, can you still purchase this battery for $369.00?
It's near $300 now if you use my discount code. Major price drop.
I'm sorry their website says $399.00 and your code is $30.00 off that, correct. Where does it list it for a cheaper price?
@@grh7399 ahhhhh, they had a new years sale going last week and it looks like it's back to normal pricing. The discount code should drop it down to the $369 though. The prices change all the time, sorry for the confusion.
@@Jasonoid Thanks jason, I appreciate your quick response. I rely on you to cut the confusion on a lot of the power stations and batteries, I'm not very savy when it comes to Electronics. Thanks for all your help.