The m10 and the m8 refer to the hole size not the wire size. Use 100$% copper or tinned copper lugs. Us the Guage they say and copper lugs. And the 100a fish will popp way b4 a 10g wire
I just bought one. They sent me a 60 amp amp fuse block as part of the package. If you look at wire charts 50 amp only requires 6 gauge wire unless the runs are super long. My unit that I just bought off eBay also has a sticker on it that had a max solar input of 50 volts which indicates an upgraded model.
I have a few questions: 1. Does the Reno charge the starter batter FROM SLOAR (the car battery) after the leisure battery is full ? 2. If my camper has a soket=connection to the 220v grid from camping host, where i have to connect the 220V wire from the host? 3. Where can i connect the invertor to the Reno and wich invertor do you recomand for this DC to DC charger? Can i connect the 220v grid also direct to the invertor and that invertor will not use the battery when 220v it s up? Does the 220v from grid charge the leisure battery? What about the starter battery? 4. Where do you put the temperature sensor?
If you wired 1 Alternator just to charge your house batteries , you wouldn't need DCDC. ( Just a MPPT Solar controller that would equalize the (Lithium?) Batteries. That your Alternators can put out 230 Amps will never be used . ( max 60 amps) . They regulate the voltage , the current is determined by what you connect to them ( the resistance of the load) Your comment about the LENGTH of the wire is true . The longer run from your alternator to the unit will have a higher resistance ( loss) than a very short wire . So it is better to install a larger wire the Longer the distance for the same amperage. Agree the 100 amp fuse seems large . With Mppt , if your alternator output Voltage is less than the Voltage required to charge your house batteries , the unit will draw more amperage from the alternator. ( power out + losses = power in). Losses include Wire resistance and converter efficiency. 75 amp fuse should be max required ( 70amps in and 50 amps out is probably the Max amps you could ever see drawn from the Alternator.
i had the same concern when installing my unit. Did some looking and found this is 10 gauge pv cable that can handle 55 amps to 18 feet. Look up renogy sizing wire for pv system. I have not had any problems so far of wires getting hot.
Would you mind sharing where you found that info? I did not come across it and it looks like that info would help others since Renogy has not done a very good job of relaying proper technical information.
Wire size and length vs power loss..Power= Current squared times Resistance . P=i2R. If drawing 60 amps thru 1 foot 10 Ga wire (10Ga is 1 Ohm/1000 feet , so 1 foot of wire is .001 Ohms. 60 amps squared is 3600. and 3600 times .001 is only 3.6 watts.
The 100 amp fuse is supposed to be placed at the battery to protect from a short. The short would travel back to the battery, not the component. 4 gage cable is an assumption of amps possible and average length run. It's a lazy way to write a manual without getting to specific.
Instruction documents for everything built now days are ambiguous for a reason... poor quality. 10 gauge solar wire for a small array is fine. The starter battery wire should be a least 6 gauge for 50A so yeah that downsize to 10 gauge at the box is confusing? Maybe that's why the unit runs hot like someone else mentioned. Although most DC/DC units run very warm with huge heat sinks. Anyway, it's way down to $349 in Canada right now, is it defective with this wire issue have you installed yet?
If you look at the online manual they ask for different fuses. I contacted renogy and the discrepancies between the online manual and book to confirm what fuses to use. I have a 70amp fuse between the alternator and charger and a 60amp between battery and charger. 100amp fuse is wrong. As far as charging i tested and get 45amp ish and the wire get a little warm but not crazy.
@@commonsensepreparednesschannel it works pretty good with the alternator but the Bluetooth has no range 😅. I haven't tested the solar side but it supposed to trickle charge your car battery when your house battery is full. Cool feature I my opinion
@@freddub1459 I'm about to take a trip and can't afford to find out the hard way I did something with the electrical system so I will have to wait, which is fine if I have to order a different fuse anyway. Did you get the "One" control unit or just using the built in Bluetooth unit?
I'm just using the app. I didn't get the one. The wiring instructions is fine. Just get a 70amp anl fuse between the alternator output and the charger. Also a 60amp between the charger and house battery. I've been using mine for 2 months almost every day charging 45ish amp. Also make sure your alternator can deliver the 50amp without overworking.
The m10 and the m8 refer to the hole size not the wire size. Use 100$% copper or tinned copper lugs. Us the Guage they say and copper lugs. And the 100a fish will popp way b4 a 10g wire
I just bought one. They sent me a 60 amp amp fuse block as part of the package.
If you look at wire charts 50 amp only requires 6 gauge wire unless the runs are super long.
My unit that I just bought off eBay also has a sticker on it that had a max solar input of 50 volts which indicates an upgraded model.
I'm seeing wire charts advising against anything more than 30-35A for 10AWG regardless of length so passing 50A through it concerns me.
Use 6 gauge wire@@commonsensepreparednesschannel
I have a few questions:
1. Does the Reno charge the starter batter FROM SLOAR (the car battery) after the leisure battery is full ?
2. If my camper has a soket=connection to the 220v grid from camping host, where i have to connect the 220V wire from the host?
3. Where can i connect the invertor to the Reno and wich invertor do you recomand for this DC to DC charger? Can i connect the 220v grid also direct to the invertor and that invertor will not use the battery when 220v it s up?
Does the 220v from grid charge the leisure battery? What about the starter battery?
4. Where do you put the temperature sensor?
If you wired 1 Alternator just to charge your house batteries , you wouldn't need DCDC. ( Just a MPPT Solar controller that would equalize the (Lithium?) Batteries.
That your Alternators can put out 230 Amps will never be used . ( max 60 amps) . They regulate the voltage , the current is determined by what you connect to them ( the resistance of the load)
Your comment about the LENGTH of the wire is true . The longer run from your alternator to the unit will have a higher resistance ( loss) than a very short wire . So it is better to install a larger wire the Longer the distance for the same amperage.
Agree the 100 amp fuse seems large . With Mppt , if your alternator output Voltage is less than the Voltage required to charge your house batteries , the unit will draw more amperage from the alternator. ( power out + losses = power in). Losses include Wire resistance and converter efficiency. 75 amp fuse should be max required ( 70amps in and 50 amps out is probably the Max amps you could ever see drawn from the Alternator.
Great info, thank you.
i had the same concern when installing my unit. Did some looking and found this is 10 gauge pv cable that can handle 55 amps to 18 feet. Look up renogy sizing wire for pv system. I have not had any problems so far of wires getting hot.
Would you mind sharing where you found that info? I did not come across it and it looks like that info would help others since Renogy has not done a very good job of relaying proper technical information.
Wire size and length vs power loss..Power= Current squared times Resistance . P=i2R. If drawing 60 amps thru 1 foot 10 Ga wire (10Ga is 1 Ohm/1000 feet , so 1 foot of wire is .001 Ohms. 60 amps squared is 3600. and 3600 times .001 is only 3.6 watts.
The 100 amp fuse is supposed to be placed at the battery to protect from a short. The short would travel back to the battery, not the component. 4 gage cable is an assumption of amps possible and average length run. It's a lazy way to write a manual without getting to specific.
Just use whatever is rated higher. Your Ober analyzing it
Instruction documents for everything built now days are ambiguous for a reason... poor quality. 10 gauge solar wire for a small array is fine. The starter battery wire should be a least 6 gauge for 50A so yeah that downsize to 10 gauge at the box is confusing? Maybe that's why the unit runs hot like someone else mentioned. Although most DC/DC units run very warm with huge heat sinks. Anyway, it's way down to $349 in Canada right now, is it defective with this wire issue have you installed yet?
If you look at the online manual they ask for different fuses. I contacted renogy and the discrepancies between the online manual and book to confirm what fuses to use.
I have a 70amp fuse between the alternator and charger and a 60amp between battery and charger. 100amp fuse is wrong.
As far as charging i tested and get 45amp ish and the wire get a little warm but not crazy.
Thank you, I really get the feeling this was rushed out without proper QA.
@@commonsensepreparednesschannel it works pretty good with the alternator but the Bluetooth has no range 😅. I haven't tested the solar side but it supposed to trickle charge your car battery when your house battery is full. Cool feature I my opinion
@@freddub1459 I'm about to take a trip and can't afford to find out the hard way I did something with the electrical system so I will have to wait, which is fine if I have to order a different fuse anyway. Did you get the "One" control unit or just using the built in Bluetooth unit?
I'm just using the app. I didn't get the one.
The wiring instructions is fine. Just get a 70amp anl fuse between the alternator output and the charger. Also a 60amp between the charger and house battery. I've been using mine for 2 months almost every day charging 45ish amp. Also make sure your alternator can deliver the 50amp without overworking.
I also got the new smart shunt 300. All working within the app but the Bluetooth range is garbage.
Have you installed this? I have it running on solar and it’s getting 170 degrees
Work is keeping me from having the time to finish the install right now, unfortunately. The unit is running at 170 degrees?
Yes this unit doesn’t have a fan so it runs pretty hot. We will see how long it lasts
10AWG wire, outside an engine space, with insulation rated to 105C, can handle 60 amps.
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