Before the comments roll in, there’s lots of bad habits and techniques going on in this video...I’m very limited in space, tools, time and experience (and maybe brains) so don’t take this video as advice, it’s simply entertainment and I’m doing stuff so you don’t have to.
Looking at frames like this, i wonder if you could flip the frame upside down (with the bb on the top of the frame) and build a bike up like that, then see how it rides? you might have to get a little creative with the cranks/hub but it would be interesting to see how bad it is!
A tooth brush works good for stripping paint & sure would have an old one? Have been busy building new trail lines, but could do with some help with knowing how technically difficult to make them? What I can ride is not a good guide, but trails still ride good?
"I made sure to clean your bike for you before giving it back. There was a lot of mud and extra metal on it. It's so clean you can see through the dropouts again!"
Honestly, as someone with a small machine shop at home in his shed, with like 5 things that can drill holes, you're much better with a hand drill than I am! Good job and that hole saw looks pretty sweet!
I remember doing a few things that included a bit of heating of a full suss frame using a mate’s gas welder - ‘‘twas an aluminium one. All went well until a few weeks later charging down to Ladybower...... Well, suddenly, I had an easy to transport folding frame 😂🤣🤣😂
As a machinist and engineer, I can say you've done a pretty good job considering your skill and tools available! The only area which might have been substantially weakened is the BB yolk, but as the holes are all round and don't have any sharp corners; it will probably be okay for a long time. Unless you hit it on anything and dent it, it'll be 'reeeeet'! We've all done things like this when we started riding!
You nutter! I've often thought about drilling out material from mtb chainrings to save a little weight but never actually done it. The frame looks good raw and still looks very strong.
I think it's a lot safer with some parts than others. Not sure about chainrings, but I would be happier to drill out derailleurs, levers, saddles and rims before I drill frames or other weight-bearing parts! It's also worth weighing the parts on your bike. Sometimes you discover that your tyres or pedals are actually quite heavy compared to others on the market, and you can save as much weight as drilling just by changing a couple of parts. I just spent £40 on some new pedals and saved about 150g.
@@devononair It's definitely worth weighing parts yourself, I've noticed the actual weight is often different from what is stated by the manufacturer. Unless you're a competitive cyclist, beyond shortening a long seat post or cutting the excess off a new fork steerer, taking a saw or drill to your bike to save a few grams probably isn't worth it.
Doesn’t get much more crude than this haha! I think I did chase the threads in older frames when I worked in a bike shop that had the tool... in this case I’ll use a cheap bb before putting a better quality one in
@@Ali_Clarkson wire brush to remove the loose material probably be sufficient. Apparently you can make your own chase tool by grinding slots in the threads of metal BB cups...? Luckily after an unmasked respray (!) a wire brush on a drill worked for me
@@TimInertiatic You can! Last time I messed up my BB threads during a spindle replacement. I bought a BB kit for retro bikes witn steel cone cups, it was like $2. I have cut three slots similar to how a thread tap looks like, and it worked perfectly on an aluminium frame. For those who want to make this tool: - identify which is the left thread, so it should be cut accrodingly - search for the start of the thread, and cut the slots far away from that. It is already very hard to align the tool properly in an already damaged thread, and without the proper leading edge it is even harder. - don't force in this tool in one pass. If the thread is more worn or full of dried thread locker, that won't fit in the shallow groove. Remove the tool and brush out the chips.
As building my old-school trial bike, what is based on a UMF Hardy Steel 2 ('10), what I've learned: Yes, that 158g is worth. Here 150g, there 150g (lighter fork), somewhere else 150g (lighter tyres), and maybe another 150g (another pedals!), and you got easily -1kg! That is really something to notice when you ride. And than you can go further: change stem, bar, inner tubes, gearing (f.e. from 32-23, to 22-18), seat tube (if you have a seat), BB and cranks (from square taper/isis/howitzer to GXP/Hollowtech 2), what are not big investments, if not everything is brand new. but that's how my 15+kg (original setup) bike got 12,78kg! At the moment, since a really ligther fork, ligther front wheel, front brake disc is on the way... :)
I remember Jeff Anderson and Kevin Liu took a grinder to an entire frame to make the tubing thinner back in the day. The watermelon bike. Based on a Meta VTT.
Insane Ali, insane :-D I was off by 7g guessing the final weight after "diet", guess 1970g, because I know how little you actually save doing stuff like that having removed guides etc that weren't being used on older frames. Will be very interested to see you ride that built up and then if holds up fine, then maybe look to do further "dietary" actions to it to save some more.
Great video! Modding and drilling parts back in the day was a lot more fun and exciting than just buying light stuff nowadays. I think that bike will ride better than your echo hifi due to the longer chain stays. I think you had a yabaa with 390 back in the day and the a2 are 385 i think. Have fun!
I used to work at a bike shop that carried Litespeed Ti frames. The sales rep would always brag that since it doesn't need to be painted, that saved 1/4 pound right there.
@@Ali_Clarkson Remember cutting up a Ti frame & designing full sus frame for titanium red back in mid 90s But Titaniunm red got ripped off by Russian's that built frames in mig fighter jet factoty & never saw frames built, sad but true!
You're quite good with the cordless drill! Even with the tame riding I do I'm afraid my MTB frame will have problems, I'd be a nervous wreck! My frame could probably handle someone twice my weight riding 3 times as hard ;)
Definitely a Dark Art.. lol A long time ago, I externally butted the tubings. I systematically sanded and counted every stride with a sanding disc on an angle grinder. (You can use a caliper to test how much material each pass removes. Do more passes near the centre of the frame.) It is SLIGHTLY safer than drilling holes. I brought a low end frame down to approx 1650grams. After 6 months of riding, I threw the frame away before hurting myself or anyone else.
I'm curious is a set of rims that have been through a bunch of grinds lighter than a fresh trials rim? Could you have a "race day" wheelset that only has a handful of grinds left just for use in competition?
I've done this on a Zoo Pirana (I think) which was massively over engineered for me. You have to take into account that these frames have to survive a 90kg+ rider dropping off a 10ft wall so for me at 64kg pottering around jumping off nothing higher than say 5ft, I could really go crazy with the drilling. Of course noone is going to want to buy the frame afterwards so you have to keep that in mind! Also you can save twice as much weight simply by changing tyres or even going tubeless as tubes are around 250g each!
8:47 "Drilling through weld is not what you want to be doing"....True, you don't want to drill through the weld but do you ever notice that it's not typically the weld that breaks? It is usually the strongest part of the project if done correctly.
Adamant lovers look away now 😂 I never knew anyone that used to do that to their frame's but a few of us used to do it too our magura hs33 lever blades
Very interesting. I've cut redundant bosses off frames but was always a bit nervous in case there was just a hole under the braze on, so left an ugly stub. The countersinking is very my mechanics inspired. I'm the same now :-)
I think you can improve the current mods to make them more of a professional finish and weight saving. Increase the size of holes. That read how can open right up. Radial the edges for the stress relief. Shot blast it, remove a layer and make it cleaner. Ditch the cable mounts. Tape, cable tie or internal now. It’s a comp thing as you said. Your drill is not idea. Get some man power!
The amount of chips inside that room must've been enormous. :D I personally use my shower stall as my workshop... But a god damn angle grinder inside a flat? That's next level! That hole saw is a cool design that i hadn't seen before. Does it use carbide tool bits..? Great to see someone else doing metal work like this in their home as well. :)
with all the weight most of the time being on the rear wheel i'm not sure the drilled dropouts would support the stress. removing the thinner sections takes away a lot of strength from that area alone.. but as an exercise in weight reduction, good try :)
Awfully painful seeing you struggle with the cordless and rather anemic cordless Dremel tool. The corded one will give you back 50% of your precious wasted time. I have endured using the “wrong” hand tools in the past so I can totally appreciate your painstaking (and obviously frustrating) efforts for this video. Mad kudos seeing you struggle how I have in the past (I was using cordless tools to modify car engines - internal reciprocating components and porting/polishing intake/exhaust runners and stuff like that - only to gain 4HP in a stupid car!).
That was really interesting Ali, the only other way to save weight is for the rider to lose weight as well, however Ali my build is now finished and I went with an 18 tooth cog on the rear wheel and that’s perfect for now an then one day when I am used to riding my single speed cruiser I might put the 16 tooth cog back on, anyway you keep your good work on these interesting videos and I will see you on the next one, buy for now.
As a mechanical engineer I can tell you that what you did to the drop outs has massively weakenend them. Especially the left one. The material that you removed was taking most of the vertical forces(forces going perpendicular to the length of the frame) coming from the rear axle. I would not ride that frame.
Please have a look at this: imgur.com/a/rK0YEFv I did a simple stress analysis on on a dropout like that. I don't have the exact measurements so the dropout I modelled is only an approximation. But it still serves to prove my point. What you did more than quadruples the stress in certain areas of the dropout and it could very well lead to a fracture! The images also clearly shows that the stress distribution in the part is dramatically altered.
@@audunskilbrei8279 Im no engineer, but there is an important factor missing in that calculation: A base point. That dropout could have easily been 100Xs stronger than needed to start, if he's reduced the effectiveness by 4Xs he still has plenty of strength there. What you are saying is legit, Im not disputing that, I can clearly see what you describe. I also agree to be cautious with that thing, no one needs Ali hurt.
@@jackolson8775 You are correct. They could very well have designed that frame with a 10x safety factor and it will be fine. But what has happened here is that the stress has been shifted to a point where the engineers never meant it to be. This is, in many ways, comparable to removing the seat tube in the frame. The double triangle design of a normal bike frame is extremely strong when all the parts are in place. Remove just one tube and it becomes an order of magnitude weaker. Even with a 10x safety factor it might not be enough. And the scary thing about aluminium is that it might not crack right away but you may have fatigue fractures in a months time. Basically my point is the same as your last point. I want Ali to be safe and I personally feel that this frame is no longer safe. I could very well be wrong(I hope I am if he keeps riding it).
Innovation is the mother of invention...someone steps forward...makes the risk...we all move one step forward... Dremel or not... that’s engineering 🤘🇨🇭👀
I agree, don’t do this although I’m confident this will still be strong, you should see some of the older frames I ran...actually spoiler... the Atomz want the only old comp frame I found, also have a very highly modified comp frame which I’m going to build into a full bike soon
As a machinist, you are correct, I was cringing. Ha ha ha! Id say the #1 thing ( besides using more cutting fluid - vegetable shortening works great on aluminum, believe it or not ) would be using a vice or some sort of clamp down set up. It'll save a LOT of time, headaches & broken bits. I was entertained, however. ;)
This is the first time i've ever stopped to look at a train wreck 😬 This reminds me of my sportbike days where guys would spend disgusting amounts of money to save less weight than getting fit and eating right would yield for free (obviously not applicable in your case)
Do what you can with the tools you have, just buy a better drill when you can ;) go makita. Thanks for the video it’s pretty interesting. Looking forward to the build video for this frame.
Point made and it’s been noted, apologies if it annoyed you. Hopefully you can see it from my side too though, I needed ANY picture of a scratched up/dented down tube on a trials bike but you’d be surprised how few there are on-line (certainly in a high enough res). Yours was the only suitable one I could find after an hour of looking, it looked to be an older photo from a sales description and not anything that was earning the owner any money from royalties. My video was due out that same day on Patreon and to try and figure out the owner of the photo would have taken too long and posting it on social media to find the owner might have given the frame away. I seriously never expected the owner of an old photo of a down tube from a sales advert would want to arrange usage rights. I’m in the wrong for using a photo from Google without permission but hopefully my reasons give some insight to why I did.
@@Ali_Clarkson no worries! I never intended to claim anything. I am glad to help out a fellow trials rider any time. In case you need additional pictures you can get in touch any time. The profile you got it from is flickr.com/photos/ecols feel free to flip through and see if something can help you out.
I can understand the experimental factor of doing this, but the amount of effort and actual total weight saved does in no way add up to the loss of structural integrity of your frame.. But you knew that already ;) Nice vid nonetheless! :)
I feel like light weight isn’t worth it for many reasons I would rather things last Saving weight makes very little sense in the modern era. The rider does make up for weight on any bike and skills.
Before the comments roll in, there’s lots of bad habits and techniques going on in this video...I’m very limited in space, tools, time and experience (and maybe brains) so don’t take this video as advice, it’s simply entertainment and I’m doing stuff so you don’t have to.
Dremel Speedclic cut off disks are the best for cutting. Worth the extra..
Looking at frames like this, i wonder if you could flip the frame upside down (with the bb on the top of the frame) and build a bike up like that, then see how it rides? you might have to get a little creative with the cranks/hub but it would be interesting to see how bad it is!
major props for taking the sharp edges off most of those holes you drilled!
A tooth brush works good for stripping paint & sure would have an old one?
Have been busy building new trail lines, but could do with some help with knowing how technically difficult to make them?
What I can ride is not a good guide, but trails still ride good?
Boring video, but you could have done a hole lot worse.
Note to self: Don't let Ali borrow any of my frames. LOL
Haha!!
"I made sure to clean your bike for you before giving it back. There was a lot of mud and extra metal on it. It's so clean you can see through the dropouts again!"
These trial folks are a different breed man haha
Raw frames are the best!! Love seeing the welds, especially on steel!
Mmmmm raw steel!!
Honestly, as someone with a small machine shop at home in his shed, with like 5 things that can drill holes, you're much better with a hand drill than I am! Good job and that hole saw looks pretty sweet!
Hacker skills
Ikr! His hand-drill skills are impressive
I don’t know if drilling holes into my frame would give me a confidence boost to be honest :D
I never clicked so fast. Love your vids
Thanks man that means a lot to me :)
I remember doing a few things that included a bit of heating of a full suss frame using a mate’s gas welder - ‘‘twas an aluminium one. All went well until a few weeks later charging down to Ladybower...... Well, suddenly, I had an easy to transport folding frame 😂🤣🤣😂
As a machinist and engineer, I can say you've done a pretty good job considering your skill and tools available! The only area which might have been substantially weakened is the BB yolk, but as the holes are all round and don't have any sharp corners; it will probably be okay for a long time. Unless you hit it on anything and dent it, it'll be 'reeeeet'! We've all done things like this when we started riding!
I really enjoyed that Ali!! Nice one!! Always great to see different content, and someone willing to do something different 👍🏻👍🏻
I really like to see people modding bikes, thanks for the video!
Thank god your not a dentist! 😂😂😂😂! Great video!
Lol I’d be the worst!
You're.
Absolutely love this video!
Keep up the awesome content Ali!
is that your sunday bike? coz its holy
im sorry....
Jesus Christ 🤦🏼♂️
You nutter! I've often thought about drilling out material from mtb chainrings to save a little weight but never actually done it. The frame looks good raw and still looks very strong.
I think it's a lot safer with some parts than others. Not sure about chainrings, but I would be happier to drill out derailleurs, levers, saddles and rims before I drill frames or other weight-bearing parts! It's also worth weighing the parts on your bike. Sometimes you discover that your tyres or pedals are actually quite heavy compared to others on the market, and you can save as much weight as drilling just by changing a couple of parts. I just spent £40 on some new pedals and saved about 150g.
@@devononair It's definitely worth weighing parts yourself, I've noticed the actual weight is often different from what is stated by the manufacturer. Unless you're a competitive cyclist, beyond shortening a long seat post or cutting the excess off a new fork steerer, taking a saw or drill to your bike to save a few grams probably isn't worth it.
Just here for the frog
analogies 🐸
I use them all the time!
Nice one Ali! Never really seen this attention to detail with frame weight saving. Very interesting! Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Don't forget about grinding down the welds. It takes off more than you'd think and looks slick too.
Ali have you been to Tesco by any chance? Every little helps.... even taking the stickers off
Did you make logo "crank brothers" in head tube 😁
Machinist here, in engineering school too... Can confirm I had raised eyebrows but I love the dedication man! Keep up the awesome shredding!
Thanks! Will do!
I know you said you wouldn't. But would you please reconsider a video about making brake pads? Please...
His big secret
Fantastic, being this "crude" made it more real.
Did you usually "chase/retap/pass" the threads of the BB where drilled?
Doesn’t get much more crude than this haha!
I think I did chase the threads in older frames when I worked in a bike shop that had the tool... in this case I’ll use a cheap bb before putting a better quality one in
@@Ali_Clarkson Thank you for answering. Great content as usual.
@@Ali_Clarkson wire brush to remove the loose material probably be sufficient. Apparently you can make your own chase tool by grinding slots in the threads of metal BB cups...? Luckily after an unmasked respray (!) a wire brush on a drill worked for me
@@TimInertiatic You can! Last time I messed up my BB threads during a spindle replacement. I bought a BB kit for retro bikes witn steel cone cups, it was like $2. I have cut three slots similar to how a thread tap looks like, and it worked perfectly on an aluminium frame.
For those who want to make this tool:
- identify which is the left thread, so it should be cut accrodingly
- search for the start of the thread, and cut the slots far away from that. It is already very hard to align the tool properly in an already damaged thread, and without the proper leading edge it is even harder.
- don't force in this tool in one pass. If the thread is more worn or full of dried thread locker, that won't fit in the shallow groove. Remove the tool and brush out the chips.
CONGRATS ON 100k !!!!!
Thank you! :D
As building my old-school trial bike, what is based on a UMF Hardy Steel 2 ('10), what I've learned:
Yes, that 158g is worth. Here 150g, there 150g (lighter fork), somewhere else 150g (lighter tyres), and maybe another 150g (another pedals!),
and you got easily -1kg! That is really something to notice when you ride.
And than you can go further: change stem, bar, inner tubes, gearing (f.e. from 32-23, to 22-18), seat tube (if you have a seat), BB and cranks (from square taper/isis/howitzer to GXP/Hollowtech 2), what are not big investments, if not everything is brand new.
but that's how my 15+kg (original setup) bike got 12,78kg! At the moment, since a really ligther fork, ligther front wheel, front brake disc is on the way... :)
I remember Jeff Anderson and Kevin Liu took a grinder to an entire frame to make the tubing thinner back in the day. The watermelon bike. Based on a Meta VTT.
See if I had a bit more time, a shed and a steady hand I’d have tried that with this frame too
I wonder how may years before we get 3D printed frames that look like crazy spider webs and are twice as lite and twice as strong!
That would be awesome!
Crazy spider webs would not make a good frame design, so no?
Insane Ali, insane :-D I was off by 7g guessing the final weight after "diet", guess 1970g, because I know how little you actually save doing stuff like that having removed guides etc that weren't being used on older frames. Will be very interested to see you ride that built up and then if holds up fine, then maybe look to do further "dietary" actions to it to save some more.
A good example of “knowing the rules before you can break the rules”
Love these builds
Great video! Modding and drilling parts back in the day was a lot more fun and exciting than just buying light stuff nowadays. I think that bike will ride better than your echo hifi due to the longer chain stays. I think you had a yabaa with 390 back in the day and the a2 are 385 i think. Have fun!
When you remove paint like that is there any downside? Is it better to apply a bit of clearcoat afterwards?
You've been smashing out great content mate!
I used to work at a bike shop that carried Litespeed Ti frames. The sales rep would always brag that since it doesn't need to be painted, that saved 1/4 pound right there.
Yeah I think I remember a few ti frame brands claiming the same thing!
@@Ali_Clarkson do you remember Pete Wright from back in the day on Trials-forum? I recall titanium holes and other such shenanigans!
@@Ali_Clarkson Remember cutting up a Ti frame & designing full sus frame for titanium red back in mid 90s
But Titaniunm red got ripped off by Russian's that built frames in mig fighter jet factoty & never saw frames built, sad but true!
You're quite good with the cordless drill! Even with the tame riding I do I'm afraid my MTB frame will have problems, I'd be a nervous wreck! My frame could probably handle someone twice my weight riding 3 times as hard ;)
Ah yes, the rarest metal on earth: Drill-inium
Where can you buy the paint stripper?
I almost cry, I understand that's a common thing in trials bikes, but it still hurts haha
Christ! I felt like I was gonna get arrested by opening up the gear cable mounts on my frame, meanwhile here you are doing this!
Definitely a Dark Art.. lol
A long time ago, I externally butted the tubings.
I systematically sanded and counted every stride with a sanding disc on an angle grinder.
(You can use a caliper to test how much material each pass removes. Do more passes near the centre of the frame.)
It is SLIGHTLY safer than drilling holes. I brought a low end frame down to approx 1650grams.
After 6 months of riding, I threw the frame away before hurting myself or anyone else.
Alistair, my lad, would you please explain, how exactly did you "find" a frame? It's a bicycle frame, not a penny forgotten in the old winter jacket.
He found it under Danny's bed or behind the couch?
@@Aljonone1 Makes sense.
This was really cool to watch, thanks Ali
I'm curious is a set of rims that have been through a bunch of grinds lighter than a fresh trials rim? Could you have a "race day" wheelset that only has a handful of grinds left just for use in competition?
Yes they do get lighter BUT they also dent easier which wouldn’t be ideal in the middle of a comp
@@Ali_Clarkson ah I see, basically like any standard rim brake rim.
Its 1AM but your video is my favorite to watch
I think you could also heavily drill the top and "seat" tubes to the state they'd look like modern gaming mice backs without much rigidity loss :)
I've done this on a Zoo Pirana (I think) which was massively over engineered for me. You have to take into account that these frames have to survive a 90kg+ rider dropping off a 10ft wall so for me at 64kg pottering around jumping off nothing higher than say 5ft, I could really go crazy with the drilling. Of course noone is going to want to buy the frame afterwards so you have to keep that in mind! Also you can save twice as much weight simply by changing tyres or even going tubeless as tubes are around 250g each!
8:47 "Drilling through weld is not what you want to be doing"....True, you don't want to drill through the weld but do you ever notice that it's not typically the weld that breaks? It is usually the strongest part of the project if done correctly.
Adamant lovers look away now 😂 I never knew anyone that used to do that to their frame's but a few of us used to do it too our magura hs33 lever blades
why don't you drill more holes inside frame tubes????
Pro tip:
Use soap as a lubricant on your cutting and grinding tools when machining aluminium. Makes the chips stick a lot less.
Very interesting. I've cut redundant bosses off frames but was always a bit nervous in case there was just a hole under the braze on, so left an ugly stub.
The countersinking is very my mechanics inspired. I'm the same now :-)
it might get easily bent when jumps
Aww man! This brings back so many memories...
Good times
wow pretty cool. I like that this vid had voice commentary and not just subtitles.
I think you can improve the current mods to make them more of a professional finish and weight saving.
Increase the size of holes. That read how can open right up.
Radial the edges for the stress relief.
Shot blast it, remove a layer and make it cleaner.
Ditch the cable mounts. Tape, cable tie or internal now. It’s a comp thing as you said.
Your drill is not idea. Get some man power!
I am looking forward to this frame riding 🤪 The dropout section is my biggest concern.
The amount of chips inside that room must've been enormous. :D I personally use my shower stall as my workshop...
But a god damn angle grinder inside a flat? That's next level! That hole saw is a cool design that i hadn't seen before. Does it use carbide tool bits..?
Great to see someone else doing metal work like this in their home as well. :)
You have to watch you don't set the smoke alarm off if you use an angle grinder indoors. You'll never guess how I found out :-P...
with all the weight most of the time being on the rear wheel i'm not sure the drilled dropouts would support the stress. removing the thinner sections takes away a lot of strength from that area alone.. but as an exercise in weight reduction, good try :)
Would this work on a carbon frame?
I believe it won't work
Awfully painful seeing you struggle with the cordless and rather anemic cordless Dremel tool. The corded one will give you back 50% of your precious wasted time. I have endured using the “wrong” hand tools in the past so I can totally appreciate your painstaking (and obviously frustrating) efforts for this video. Mad kudos seeing you struggle how I have in the past (I was using cordless tools to modify car engines - internal reciprocating components and porting/polishing intake/exhaust runners and stuff like that - only to gain 4HP in a stupid car!).
We haven't all left the room 🤣
That was really interesting Ali, the only other way to save weight is for the rider to lose weight as well, however Ali my build is now finished and I went with an 18 tooth cog on the rear wheel and that’s perfect for now an then one day when I am used to riding my single speed cruiser I might put the 16 tooth cog back on, anyway you keep your good work on these interesting videos and I will see you on the next one, buy for now.
As a mechanical engineer I can tell you that what you did to the drop outs has massively weakenend them. Especially the left one. The material that you removed was taking most of the vertical forces(forces going perpendicular to the length of the frame) coming from the rear axle. I would not ride that frame.
Please have a look at this:
imgur.com/a/rK0YEFv
I did a simple stress analysis on on a dropout like that. I don't have the exact measurements so the dropout I modelled is only an approximation. But it still serves to prove my point. What you did more than quadruples the stress in certain areas of the dropout and it could very well lead to a fracture!
The images also clearly shows that the stress distribution in the part is dramatically altered.
May be less strong?
But still strong enough!
@@audunskilbrei8279 Im no engineer, but there is an important factor missing in that calculation: A base point. That dropout could have easily been 100Xs stronger than needed to start, if he's reduced the effectiveness by 4Xs he still has plenty of strength there. What you are saying is legit, Im not disputing that, I can clearly see what you describe. I also agree to be cautious with that thing, no one needs Ali hurt.
@@jackolson8775 You are correct. They could very well have designed that frame with a 10x safety factor and it will be fine. But what has happened here is that the stress has been shifted to a point where the engineers never meant it to be. This is, in many ways, comparable to removing the seat tube in the frame. The double triangle design of a normal bike frame is extremely strong when all the parts are in place. Remove just one tube and it becomes an order of magnitude weaker. Even with a 10x safety factor it might not be enough. And the scary thing about aluminium is that it might not crack right away but you may have fatigue fractures in a months time.
Basically my point is the same as your last point. I want Ali to be safe and I personally feel that this frame is no longer safe. I could very well be wrong(I hope I am if he keeps riding it).
@@audunskilbrei8279 Thanks for the insight. Absolutely correct on the aluminum fatigue.
Taking the term "weight weenie" to a whole nother level :)
That lad on a recent Pinkbike video with a sub 8 kg Scott full suspension XC bike would beg to differ...
Brilliant Video! Thanks Ali
My phd went to antarctica after watching this
the title got me, what are you doing...
Now you can install like 7 OneUp EDC tools.
Would be a good idea using some cutting compound next time
Innovation is the mother of invention...someone steps forward...makes the risk...we all move one step forward... Dremel or not... that’s engineering 🤘🇨🇭👀
Please don't do this to bikes, also Ali, don't ride this, we all love you
I agree, don’t do this although I’m confident this will still be strong, you should see some of the older frames I ran...actually spoiler... the Atomz want the only old comp frame I found, also have a very highly modified comp frame which I’m going to build into a full bike soon
The fine art of drillium👍😂
i did that to a pair of freeline skates and ended up reducing the weight by about one steel bearing :}
As a machinist, you are correct, I was cringing. Ha ha ha! Id say the #1 thing ( besides using more cutting fluid - vegetable shortening works great on aluminum, believe it or not ) would be using a vice or some sort of clamp down set up. It'll save a LOT of time, headaches & broken bits. I was entertained, however. ;)
Yh just ad one hole for good luck.🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂😂your crazy bro no harm in a third ppphhhaaahaaahaa mad man. Looks sick though. 👍🏻💪🏻✊🏻
This is the first time i've ever stopped to look at a train wreck 😬
This reminds me of my sportbike days where guys would spend disgusting amounts of money to save less weight than getting fit and eating right would yield for free (obviously not applicable in your case)
I have 2 jokes
#1 this is the most holly bike I’ve seen
#2 what is this video about how to make Swiss cheese
Hope u like the jokes
Good work! Everything goes for lighter weigth, even computer mices are full of holes nowadays :-)
I think that this format with voice comment would be much better even for builds videos
Do what you can with the tools you have, just buy a better drill when you can ;) go makita. Thanks for the video it’s pretty interesting. Looking forward to the build video for this frame.
Every filing flake is another bit of weight saved. Wow 😂
This man needs some tool sponsors
Good vid and well narrated
Well, I did not started the video yet, but I already want it to be longer!!! :)
i liked the frog bit
Frames and components made with "drillium" were all the rage int he 90's.
Ali is very much a product of the 90s!
Do as I say not as I do !
Definitely!
Can i have that frame i want to do trials like you hope you notice
You should do the same on Danny's Santa Cruz......
Hey! I like your cat! And your videos of course 😉
Nice to see you featured my former bike in the video, but please ask next time for usage rights for the pictures. The abused downtube was mine...
Point made and it’s been noted, apologies if it annoyed you. Hopefully you can see it from my side too though, I needed ANY picture of a scratched up/dented down tube on a trials bike but you’d be surprised how few there are on-line (certainly in a high enough res). Yours was the only suitable one I could find after an hour of looking, it looked to be an older photo from a sales description and not anything that was earning the owner any money from royalties. My video was due out that same day on Patreon and to try and figure out the owner of the photo would have taken too long and posting it on social media to find the owner might have given the frame away. I seriously never expected the owner of an old photo of a down tube from a sales advert would want to arrange usage rights.
I’m in the wrong for using a photo from Google without permission but hopefully my reasons give some insight to why I did.
@@Ali_Clarkson no worries! I never intended to claim anything. I am glad to help out a fellow trials rider any time. In case you need additional pictures you can get in touch any time. The profile you got it from is flickr.com/photos/ecols feel free to flip through and see if something can help you out.
Frame drillium. Scary stuff.
That disclaimer though lol
As much as I think most of my viewers are sensible and able to think for themselves I felt like I had to at least put something
ALI, MATE, IS LOCKDOWN THAT BAD?! ahahh.
But how does she ride Mr Clarkson.
Waiting for for another rainy day so you will build the bike
I went out and hugged my bike after watching this. The thought of such abuse doesn't sit well.
I can understand the experimental factor of doing this, but the amount of effort and actual total weight saved does in no way add up to the loss of structural integrity of your frame..
But you knew that already ;)
Nice vid nonetheless! :)
That reminds me, I am due for a dental checkup 😁.
I feel like light weight isn’t worth it for many reasons
I would rather things last
Saving weight makes very little sense in the modern era. The rider does make up for weight on any bike and skills.
I agree