@@cody1212143 When I plan to do all four, I start with the front. The front brakes do most of the braking, so if they're worn out, the priority is to replace them first to improve braking performance. Once I'm done with the front, I go for a test drive to make sure they're working well, before starting on the rear. It's important to press the brake pedal a few times before driving, so the calipers adjust to the new brakes. Thanks for watching!
I watched 6 videos on changing brakes, 3 of them were good and this one had things the others did not. Also your presentation / voice etc are pro level. Great job. Thank you!
Thanks! A lot of work goes into these videos, so I'm glad they're helpful. Yes, most other videos ignore the squealers for some reason.. It's strange that they clip on, most other cars have the squealer as part of the pad. It's also strange some manufacturers provide them and some don't. They all should, but I've seen many aftermarket pads come without them.
I swear to God man goes above and beyond with information on how to remove, torque, size, mm, locations, arrows, everything, couldn't have had a better guy to show me how to fix my exact same car
Thanks just did this myself took about 3 1/2 hours. Used your links and all the same equipment. Thanks man. Your videos are so easy to understand. Hope those affiliate buys help you out
Thank you! Your video makes clear indication how the brake hardware is installed on the caliper and on the pads. Most videos skip this important information. You also make clear indication of the different caliper slide pins and their position. It's all important. I don't apply any silicone lubricant on the hardware just because in my experience, it attracts brake dust, causing the pads to stick and cause uneven wear. Thank you!
Determined to learn how to do my own general upkeep on my vehicle. I appreciate the work mechanics do but I can’t afford it and I’ve unfortunately had 1 too many negative experiences with mechanics & haven’t been able to find one I trust since moving. I would never do anything major to my car but everyone says this is one of the easiest DIY replacements you can do on a vehicle. Thanks for making this video!!
Good for you. Knowing to how to do one's own minor repairs is a skill sadly lacking today. Fortunately, Toyota brakes in general are fairly easy and straightforward.
Awesome video. Great info. Only thing I will add is before placing the new rotor onto the hub be sure to clean all the rust from the hub where ever it contacts the rotor.
Sir you have serious mechanical skills along with a talent for teaching others. Great combination. Thank you for taking time to make this excellent video.
This is the best video I ever seen on 2015 corolla, brakes pads, everything very detailed specifically on the hardware position,nice camera focused, yesterday i have hard time with the hardware and i have to doing again following this beautiful video.Hermano God bless you.
You re works have a lot of info to change brakes every details have a tutorial .I was watching the video while a was changing my breaks I did a good job . Thsnk you
Great video! I was able to get it done on my 2016 Toyota Corolla LE. The only issue I ran into was removing the rotors. I hit those suckers with a hammer several times and they would not budge. Please make sure to get a M8 x 1.25 bolt before you start! I would not have been able to get them off without it.
Excellent vid! Especially the part about testing at low speeds at first. I can attest that it's no fun to have your brakes cause the car to swerve violently to the left at 60 mph because you screwed something up. The only thing I would add is there are three 14mm bolts back there, two attach the caliper, the other one goes to the break line. Make sure to leave it alone.
Very good. Thanks. I watched several videos of you from the Corolla. They helped me a lot. It strikes me that it has a lot of rust all over it. Very rare.
I'm in Ontario Canada and bought it end of 2013. Not rare at all here for a car to rust like that, in fact, I would say it's doing very good.. The brakes did rust excessively because I didn't drive much. Not driving enough doesn't heat them up often enough and the moisture gets to them. I should've painted the calipers when I bought it. If you don't drive a lot the brakes will go fast though! I spray it with rust proofing everywhere I can every time I change tires from winter to summer and back. I want to eventually clean up the calipers and spray paint them though. Might have to give them to a sandblasting place, or work a lot by hand.. The new brakes are working great for now so it doesn't make sense to buy new calipers.
Thanks for the idea, I'll try. There are different tools required for US cars Vs Japanese vs German cars. Japanese are the best.. metric, easy. A metric socket set is a good start. For Corolla you'll also need the oil filter wrench to do oil changes. A long 1/2" wrench for lug nuts and tight bolts, torque wrench, and jack+stands is also needed. If you do brakes, you'll also need the caliper piston retractor. I can show these in a video, I wonder if anybody else would be interested..
I'm about to change the rear brakes soon, so I will do it. It will take some time to get it done though, it keeps raining on and off here, and it has been very hot. Thank you for the idea!
Replaced brakes and rotors on a 2015 corolla and I have brake shaking when applying brakes. Lubed everything up right and I am stumped as what it could be. Didn't know that there was an inner and outer pad for this car. Is it possible that mixing them up would be my issue? I did these brakes at night and the pads looked alike.
Great video thanks for your efforts in making it look easy to replicate. Question, what are the torque specifications for that Toyota Corolla S 2014? thanks.
Thanks! If you really want to use the same one, here it is: marinemaxxcanada.com/product/5252/molyslip-silicone-lube-dielectric-grease-170g You can call MolySlip, or email sales@molyslip.com and ask for dealers close to you as well, they should know who carries it. It has worked perfectly, haven't a seize up since I started using it.
Check your owner's manual, for a 2014 Corolla: cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/servicemanuals/toyota/2014-corolla.pdf page 520 . Re-torque after 50-100 miles.
Prepared to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2014 Toyota Corolla manufactured in the US per the VIN #. A neighbor cautioned that I needed to be sure I replaced the bearings when I replaced the rotors.. I've seen a lot of these brake replacement videos on RUclips and replacing bearings has not been addressed. Is this something I need to do? I have Bosch 50011478 QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Rotors. I don't want to start unless I have everything that I need. Thank you for your help.
You need to change the bearing when it's worn out. There's no reason to change it if there's nothing wrong. To test it you just turn the tire left/right pretty lightly, and if you feel tiny movement without much force as you turn it left/right, then that's play in the bearing. It will usually be very tiny, maybe 1mm or so, I should probably make a video on it but it's freezing outside now. Hope that helps. Also changing the bearing is much much harder than doing brakes.. and usually they last around 150K Miles.. sometimes more.
Hi, I can't find it online, I got it from a store. I placed a link to "SuperLube Silicone Lubricating Brake Grease with Syncolon" in the video description for anyone interested in a similar grease. More about it here: www.super-lube.com/silicone-lubricating-brake-grease-with-syncolon It's also good down to -40C, same as Molyslip Silicone Lube, and it's even better than MolySlip at high temperature, up to 260C.
Yes anti-seize is not recommended for sliding parts, it will actually seize them together, I've tried it and it just dries up. I'm using silicone brake lubricant, something like 3M Silicone paste is good or Sylglide . I used the Polyslip silicone lube. I'll put links to the silicone lubricants in the video description.
I am not familiar with all copper anti-seize so it will depend which one you use, for example "3M™ Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube" may be okay since it's also a lubricant. If it's plain anti-seize though, it's not intended for lubricating and will dry up.
It is similar but not the same. The pistons do not push back like the front, they have to be turned clockwise while pushing back at the same time, so a piston retraction tool is required. There is also the handbrake, so unless it's released, the caliper won't come off. The torque for the bolts will be different also.
@@godlyitem Just look under the car at the back. If you can't see through the rim you should be able to see by looking under the left side and see the right side.., do you see a shiny rotor there?
@@CleverFix I just checked. My car unfortunately inherited the old design. It's a drum, I think. Very big housing with rust all around it So I don't think it has a disc. I'm thinking about changing only the front pads and rotor and let the rear to run until it makes noise. The current milage of my car is at 72k and I might plan to get a newer car when it hits 100k. Do you think the rear can safely last that long?
Are the rotors and pads you recommend of really cheap quality? I ask because they've squeaked ever since I've installed them. Or is my car just too old at 116k miles?
Only thing I gotta say is how is the brake fluid going to overflow the reservoir if the cap is on it? I’ve done brakes before and never touched the brake fluid reservoir and never had an issue ?
If someone topped it up while it was "low" because the brakes were worn out, it can overflow when the pistons are pushed back.. lots of fluid is returned, and a full reservoir will not have room for it. If nobody touched it since the last pads and rotors were installed, then it will be fine. The cap is just tight rubber, it's not screwed on.. if the liquid is forced out, it can go past and maybe even pop the cap off.
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* .
Question,what if you want to replace front and back brake pads... is it reccommened to do front first or you can do all four?
@@cody1212143 When I plan to do all four, I start with the front. The front brakes do most of the braking, so if they're worn out, the priority is to replace them first to improve braking performance. Once I'm done with the front, I go for a test drive to make sure they're working well, before starting on the rear. It's important to press the brake pedal a few times before driving, so the calipers adjust to the new brakes. Thanks for watching!
I watched 6 videos on changing brakes, 3 of them were good and this one had things the others did not. Also your presentation / voice etc are pro level. Great job. Thank you!
Thanks! A lot of work goes into these videos, so I'm glad they're helpful. Yes, most other videos ignore the squealers for some reason.. It's strange that they clip on, most other cars have the squealer as part of the pad. It's also strange some manufacturers provide them and some don't. They all should, but I've seen many aftermarket pads come without them.
Perfect video. Up closed and to the point. Thanks bro!
I swear to God man goes above and beyond with information on how to remove, torque, size, mm, locations, arrows, everything, couldn't have had a better guy to show me how to fix my exact same car
Thanks just did this myself took about 3 1/2 hours. Used your links and all the same equipment. Thanks man. Your videos are so easy to understand. Hope those affiliate buys help you out
Thank you! Yes it helps out for sure!! Glad it worked out.
Thank you! Your video makes clear indication how the brake hardware is installed on the caliper and on the pads. Most videos skip this important information. You also make clear indication of the different caliper slide pins and their position. It's all important.
I don't apply any silicone lubricant on the hardware just because in my experience, it attracts brake dust, causing the pads to stick and cause uneven wear.
Thank you!
Determined to learn how to do my own general upkeep on my vehicle. I appreciate the work mechanics do but I can’t afford it and I’ve unfortunately had 1 too many negative experiences with mechanics & haven’t been able to find one I trust since moving. I would never do anything major to my car but everyone says this is one of the easiest DIY replacements you can do on a vehicle. Thanks for making this video!!
Good for you. Knowing to how to do one's own minor repairs is a skill sadly lacking today. Fortunately, Toyota brakes in general are fairly easy and straightforward.
You can’t trust any mechanic. Ever. It’s a scam industry because everyone thinks cars are hard to repair when it’s pretty basic.
Awesome video. Great info. Only thing I will add is before placing the new rotor onto the hub be sure to clean all the rust from the hub where ever it contacts the rotor.
Sir you have serious mechanical skills along with a talent for teaching others. Great combination. Thank you for taking time to make this excellent video.
This is the best video I ever seen on 2015 corolla, brakes pads, everything very detailed specifically on the hardware position,nice camera focused, yesterday i have hard time with the hardware and i have to doing again following this beautiful video.Hermano God bless you.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Wanting to change the brakes on my Toyota Corolla and this is the best one yet, very thorough video, thank you
You are welcome!
You re works have a lot of info to change brakes every details have a tutorial .I was watching the video while a was changing my breaks I did a good job . Thsnk you
I have seen many videos! Yours by far is the Best!! Thank you for some great info!
Thanks, Glad it was helpful!
I definitely needed a step by step video like this. I'll be changing my brakes on my '15 Corolla. Thank you 👍
Very detailed, step-by-step process explanation. Greatly appreciated.
You are welcome!
Agree
Great video! I was able to get it done on my 2016 Toyota Corolla LE. The only issue I ran into was removing the rotors. I hit those suckers with a hammer several times and they would not budge. Please make sure to get a M8 x 1.25 bolt before you start! I would not have been able to get them off without it.
Thanks. Good tip!
Excellent video man!. Calm, and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent vid! Especially the part about testing at low speeds at first. I can attest that it's no fun to have your brakes cause the car to swerve violently to the left at 60 mph because you screwed something up. The only thing I would add is there are three 14mm bolts back there, two attach the caliper, the other one goes to the break line. Make sure to leave it alone.
Nice information on the torque specs.
Yes, Proper torque is important. Thanks for watching!
Very good. Thanks. I watched several videos of you from the Corolla. They helped me a lot. It strikes me that it has a lot of rust all over it. Very rare.
I'm in Ontario Canada and bought it end of 2013. Not rare at all here for a car to rust like that, in fact, I would say it's doing very good.. The brakes did rust excessively because I didn't drive much. Not driving enough doesn't heat them up often enough and the moisture gets to them. I should've painted the calipers when I bought it. If you don't drive a lot the brakes will go fast though! I spray it with rust proofing everywhere I can every time I change tires from winter to summer and back. I want to eventually clean up the calipers and spray paint them though. Might have to give them to a sandblasting place, or work a lot by hand.. The new brakes are working great for now so it doesn't make sense to buy new calipers.
I'd love a video on what tools a beginning DIY guy should own to work on his Corolla. Maybe it would be very similar car to car.
Thanks for the idea, I'll try. There are different tools required for US cars Vs Japanese vs German cars. Japanese are the best.. metric, easy. A metric socket set is a good start. For Corolla you'll also need the oil filter wrench to do oil changes. A long 1/2" wrench for lug nuts and tight bolts, torque wrench, and jack+stands is also needed. If you do brakes, you'll also need the caliper piston retractor. I can show these in a video, I wonder if anybody else would be interested..
Very informative video, thanks..
Any plans to do a brake fluid change video?
Excellently described and very helpful. Thank you.
So good video ! ❤
very helpful video thanks 😊
Will you also be making a rear brake job? Great video!
I'm about to change the rear brakes soon, so I will do it. It will take some time to get it done though, it keeps raining on and off here, and it has been very hot. Thank you for the idea!
Liked your video. thank you!
Replaced brakes and rotors on a 2015 corolla and I have brake shaking when applying brakes. Lubed everything up right and I am stumped as what it could be. Didn't know that there was an inner and outer pad for this car. Is it possible that mixing them up would be my issue? I did these brakes at night and the pads looked alike.
Why not use anti-seize on hardware or thread lock on bolts?
amazing video. Thanks
Hello! Can you share The link of the synthetic lube? Thanks
Great video. Very detailed.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks for your efforts in making it look easy to replicate. Question, what are the torque specifications for that Toyota Corolla S 2014? thanks.
Very nice video buddy 👍 step by step and very well explained, thank's take care🙂👍
Thanks 👍
Really nice video. Thank you. Is there a store in Toronto where you bought the MolySlip Silicone Lube? Its not even on Amazon.
Thanks! If you really want to use the same one, here it is: marinemaxxcanada.com/product/5252/molyslip-silicone-lube-dielectric-grease-170g You can call MolySlip, or email sales@molyslip.com and ask for dealers close to you as well, they should know who carries it. It has worked perfectly, haven't a seize up since I started using it.
Great information and video. What's the torque on the lug nuts?
Check your owner's manual, for a 2014 Corolla: cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/servicemanuals/toyota/2014-corolla.pdf page 520 .
Re-torque after 50-100 miles.
Prepared to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2014 Toyota Corolla manufactured in the US per the VIN #. A neighbor cautioned that I needed to be sure I replaced the bearings when I replaced the rotors.. I've seen a lot of these brake replacement videos on RUclips and replacing bearings has not been addressed. Is this something I need to do? I have Bosch 50011478 QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Rotors. I don't want to start unless I have everything that I need. Thank you for your help.
You need to change the bearing when it's worn out. There's no reason to change it if there's nothing wrong. To test it you just turn the tire left/right pretty lightly, and if you feel tiny movement without much force as you turn it left/right, then that's play in the bearing. It will usually be very tiny, maybe 1mm or so, I should probably make a video on it but it's freezing outside now. Hope that helps. Also changing the bearing is much much harder than doing brakes.. and usually they last around 150K Miles.. sometimes more.
Very useful video thanks, please send me the links to buy parts list and bolts caliber.
Check the video description. Click "Show More" If there's something you need a link for that's not there let me know and I can add it. Thanks.
We're did you get that digital tork calculator
I got acdelco cheap one from Amazon 3 year ago. Need to change battery now .
There's a link under "Torque Adapter" in the video description.
Hi ,
Where can I buy moly slip Lube ?
Hi, I can't find it online, I got it from a store.
I placed a link to "SuperLube Silicone Lubricating Brake Grease with Syncolon" in the video description for anyone interested in a similar grease.
More about it here: www.super-lube.com/silicone-lubricating-brake-grease-with-syncolon
It's also good down to -40C, same as Molyslip Silicone Lube, and it's even better than MolySlip at high temperature, up to 260C.
What do you have against anti seize at 3:32 ? Ive been using copper anti seize lubricant. Is that bad?
Yes anti-seize is not recommended for sliding parts, it will actually seize them together, I've tried it and it just dries up. I'm using silicone brake lubricant, something like 3M Silicone paste is good or Sylglide . I used the Polyslip silicone lube. I'll put links to the silicone lubricants in the video description.
I am not familiar with all copper anti-seize so it will depend which one you use, for example "3M™ Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube" may be okay since it's also a lubricant. If it's plain anti-seize though, it's not intended for lubricating and will dry up.
I've used both anti-seize compound and CNC synthetic brake and caliper grease, depending on what I had at hand. So far, no problems with either.
is the rear brake pad replacement same as the front ones? i have a corolla 2016
It is similar but not the same. The pistons do not push back like the front, they have to be turned clockwise while pushing back at the same time, so a piston retraction tool is required. There is also the handbrake, so unless it's released, the caliper won't come off. The torque for the bolts will be different also.
@@CleverFix i see your car is the Sports version and mine is a LE. Do you know if the LE uses the brake pads or drums?
@@godlyitem Just look under the car at the back. If you can't see through the rim you should be able to see by looking under the left side and see the right side.., do you see a shiny rotor there?
@@CleverFix I just checked. My car unfortunately inherited the old design. It's a drum, I think. Very big housing with rust all around it
So I don't think it has a disc. I'm thinking about changing only the front pads and rotor and let the rear to run until it makes noise. The current milage of my car is at 72k and I might plan to get a newer car when it hits 100k. Do you think the rear can safely last that long?
Amazon link to Rotors is not working. Can you provide update?
I've updated it, check the description. Apparently there are only 2 left in stock though, that's the exact same rotors in the video.
@@CleverFix thank you
Are the rotors and pads you recommend of really cheap quality? I ask because they've squeaked ever since I've installed them. Or is my car just too old at 116k miles?
Top
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Dang where you live ?that car all Rusted!
Damn, brake pads are different for toyota corolla se 2018
What's different? The Chilton manual shows the same procedure for 2014-2018.
is that salt on those parts ? you need to do a voice over for a cartoon movie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, that's why it rusts like crazy.. they put a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter.
Only thing I gotta say is how is the brake fluid going to overflow the reservoir if the cap is on it? I’ve done brakes before and never touched the brake fluid reservoir and never had an issue ?
If someone topped it up while it was "low" because the brakes were worn out, it can overflow when the pistons are pushed back.. lots of fluid is returned, and a full reservoir will not have room for it. If nobody touched it since the last pads and rotors were installed, then it will be fine. The cap is just tight rubber, it's not screwed on.. if the liquid is forced out, it can go past and maybe even pop the cap off.