Most of time it happens in the BMS shunt you should use clamp meter to check the motor surge and for BMS on cells cable test all 13 cells voltage if voltage is good then connect + and - cable directly to battery pack and test the power surge so simply replace BMS much Bater buy smart BMS Thank you for shearing God bless you.
I have a JetsonJ5 electric bike and it runs on a 36 V system and I got a brand new 48 V 20 amp power lithium battery for my bike and it has the same behavior so I don’t use the battery. I use my stock that I don’t understand the behavior and I haven’t got it checked. I need to get it checked and I’m seeing you say it’s a bad BMS but I don’t know other bikes running on a 36 V system same bike same electric bike the Jetson it was able to handle a 48 battery. They made a video about it and I’m just not understanding the behavior and why it’s acting like that so maybe I can learn something today or maybe you know something I don’t and maybe I can get some advice, but I am gonna go get it checked probably today great contact. I am going to get back to the video and hopefully this video fixes this situation with me. Thank you great content.
If you plug the charger in for five seconds, and then take the charger back out, the power will come right back on, but that’s the problem who wants behavior like that but that’s my situation. I’m trying to see what your situation is and see if it’s related to mine But just so you know all I have to do is plug the charger in for five seconds take the charger right back out and the power is on full full power.???
I have a 48V 1000W motor and a controller of 15A rated current and 30A maximum current with a battery of 54V 12.5A The motor spins freely without issue but on load it accelerate to about 15km/Hr the power cuts off, display refreshes (l am clueless if it"s the BMS or controller cutting off power and why] Pls help.
That's either a bad cell in the battery or a bad BMS. I have a relatively new 52v 20ah triangle battery & it charges as it should to full capacity & also reads the correct voltage on the multimeter. Works fine when on the stand & hits 40+mph easily. As soon as you're sat on it though it will fully shut down around 6mph & the battery then has to be disconnected & reconnected in order to get it powered back on. I will be diagnosing which it is in the next few days. 👍🏼
had this issue first week when i got the bike and i done some upgrades because yamee sent me a new battery so i swapped both battery bms boards for daly 30a bms installed second battery on the back rack connected in parallel thru xt60 plug on frame and ditched the stupid frame plug to a wired xt60 connection done about 4000 miles since with 0 issues what so ever and with both batteries in parallel connected all the time the range and power is awesome
Great stuff! Be careful with paralleled batteries, one WILL degrade before the other, I would use them one at a time only or use one of those multiple battery adapter jobbies you can buy from eBay :)
I do wanna say when I did put the 48 V battery in I did get 45 minutes of a ride out of it then it cut off as I was throttling to go up a big hill and it cut off at the top of the hill, then I walked home wash the RUclips video After typing in my situation and somebody had the same similar one and they said just plug it in five seconds take it out and then full power that was my situation but then I didn’t like his advice because what he did was he basically canceled out the BMS he put one wire to the other wire Therefore there’s no more BMS on it so he let it run without a BMS and I won’t I won’t do that not with a higher volt system battery I mean, I might do that with the battery that I have on stock if I had those situations because I know the batteries is meant for the bike and it normally acts like that and it won’t really mess up, but at some point they do Get lower and lower and lower as time goes by so I do believe the battery or batteries have to have a BMS for on security protection no matter what so I’m hoping that you have found the problem amount and you reply to this and I hope you read your comments but anyway great content
Most of time it happens in the BMS shunt you should use clamp meter to check the motor surge and for BMS on cells cable test all 13 cells voltage if voltage is good then connect + and - cable directly to battery pack and test the power surge so simply replace BMS much Bater buy smart BMS
Thank you for shearing
God bless you.
Good idea thankyou! I did replace it and it was OK after that 👍
I have a JetsonJ5 electric bike and it runs on a 36 V system and I got a brand new 48 V 20 amp power lithium battery for my bike and it has the same behavior so I don’t use the battery. I use my stock that I don’t understand the behavior and I haven’t got it checked. I need to get it checked and I’m seeing you say it’s a bad BMS but I don’t know other bikes running on a 36 V system same bike same electric bike the Jetson it was able to handle a 48 battery. They made a video about it and I’m just not understanding the behavior and why it’s acting like that so maybe I can learn something today or maybe you know something I don’t and maybe I can get some advice, but I am gonna go get it checked probably today great contact. I am going to get back to the video and hopefully this video fixes this situation with me. Thank you great content.
Exactly my battery pack...thanks for the heads up.
No problem 👍
If you plug the charger in for five seconds, and then take the charger back out, the power will come right back on, but that’s the problem who wants behavior like that but that’s my situation. I’m trying to see what your situation is and see if it’s related to mine But just so you know all I have to do is plug the charger in for five seconds take the charger right back out and the power is on full full power.???
Exactly the battery packs are to small for a human weight load...it needs two packs
I have a 48V 1000W motor and a controller of 15A rated current and 30A maximum current with a battery of 54V 12.5A
The motor spins freely without issue but on load it accelerate to about 15km/Hr the power cuts off, display refreshes (l am clueless if it"s the BMS or controller cutting off power and why]
Pls help.
I'm really not sure, sorry. Sounds like BMS/ cells. Can you swap batteries with a friend for a day?
That's either a bad cell in the battery or a bad BMS. I have a relatively new 52v 20ah triangle battery & it charges as it should to full capacity & also reads the correct voltage on the multimeter. Works fine when on the stand & hits 40+mph easily. As soon as you're sat on it though it will fully shut down around 6mph & the battery then has to be disconnected & reconnected in order to get it powered back on. I will be diagnosing which it is in the next few days. 👍🏼
had this issue first week when i got the bike and i done some upgrades because yamee sent me a new battery so i swapped both battery bms boards for daly 30a bms installed second battery on the back rack connected in parallel thru xt60 plug on frame and ditched the stupid frame plug to a wired xt60 connection
done about 4000 miles since with 0 issues what so ever and with both batteries in parallel connected all the time the range and power is awesome
Great stuff! Be careful with paralleled batteries, one WILL degrade before the other, I would use them one at a time only or use one of those multiple battery adapter jobbies you can buy from eBay :)
@@EbikeRepairs been in parallel for around 3 years mate and they still work like first day
I'm pleased for you :)
I do wanna say when I did put the 48 V battery in I did get 45 minutes of a ride out of it then it cut off as I was throttling to go up a big hill and it cut off at the top of the hill, then I walked home wash the RUclips video After typing in my situation and somebody had the same similar one and they said just plug it in five seconds take it out and then full power that was my situation but then I didn’t like his advice because what he did was he basically canceled out the BMS he put one wire to the other wire Therefore there’s no more BMS on it so he let it run without a BMS and I won’t I won’t do that not with a higher volt system battery I mean, I might do that with the battery that I have on stock if I had those situations because I know the batteries is meant for the bike and it normally acts like that and it won’t really mess up, but at some point they do Get lower and lower and lower as time goes by so I do believe the battery or batteries have to have a BMS for on security protection no matter what so I’m hoping that you have found the problem amount and you reply to this and I hope you read your comments but anyway great content
Your finger ringsssss are making me nervous.
Kaboom! Fingies go bye bye?? 😱
Is from BMS ....
the BMS was faulty!
You do know that wearing all those metal rings is dangerous, right?
Luckily they're ceramic! ❤️
Sure fooled me. LOL. Do they have a purpose?
They're NFC tags, I use them to open doors :)
Ps that is the cheapest possible bms money can buy on this planet
its around £3 in china
Yes they're normally OK but this one failed
How satisfied are you with Docreate spot welder ?
It's brill, just you can use it faster than the caps discharge so you have to let it charge back up once it hits 4.4v or the welds are weak...
@@EbikeRepairs thanks. I will provide more amps to charting port. And can it really weld 0.3 or at least 0.2 on top of 0.2
0.15 x 2 works fine!