When I cut all the holes in the back of the cabinets I do all my measurements on a piece of cardboard first, cut that out make sure its right with the wall then I just use that as a template and draw all the holes on the cabinet.
I usually do this, especially when the wall behind the cabinet is in rough shape. But when the wall is as nicely finished as it is in this job I would consider cutting a square or rectangular opening in the back of the cabinet to allow the access to the utilities and land the covers and escutcheons right on the drywall as God intended.
to my personal preference that white color was 1 000000000% greater then the 2nd color. for me that color is to weird, its not yellow, its not white...
Can we clone your dad and place him in every major metropolitan area in the US? It would force every other contractor to raise their game considerably. Guy is amazing.
I've seen contractors take a jigsaw to the back of the sink base cabinet and randomly cut out a huge hole because they didn't want to spend 5 minutes drilling holes for the pipes. They definitely couldn't get away with that bs if they had better standards to compare to.
Lot of good contractors in any area. I think the issue is their advertising. Not to mention if they are good they are gonna be busy all the time. I think the hacks in the contractor world are people who get too much work too fast and start cutting corners to get more done. Its a shame. I’ve ripped out a lot of bad work in my days. Best you can do is research or ask people in your neighborhood who they use and if they are good. Good contractors are definitely a dying breed. I think my generation is gonna change that though. (Millennials) cause it seems like the past generations that always do the whole “it’ll be fine” method.
To be fair, good contractors absolutely exist, in every city. The problem often comes from cost vs expectations. The customers who routinely complain about shotty service are often the same customers who will hire as cheap as they can, and try to save a penny wherever possible. While there is nothing wrong with being on a budget, you need to budget your expectations in those instances as well.
@@kevinr3263 Spot on. Customers who can’t trust you do do the job that they hired you for are usually just control freaks, who have to have input on everything.
I fabricate stone countertops and your attention to straight cabinets makes a massive difference in the end result! Stone doesn’t bend, we have tried!! Excellent work as always.
Because you guys are my favorite home improvement guys ever, I’m gonna throw in a tip to you guys for finding centers. It’s a math trick. So I’ll go through some examples so you can see the visual on what is happening. Since half of a fraction is the same as doubling the Denominator, half of 1/2 is 1/4. Half of 3/4 is 3/8. Half of 7/8 is 7/16. Etc. If you are working with an EVEN NUMBER. It’s still pretty easy. Half of 64 1/4 is 32 1/8. Half of 132 3/4 is 66 3/8. Half of 44 5/16 is 22 5/32. So far so good, and you can do these in your head if you have some confidence with things. What happens when things go ODD. Well, there is a trick. Instead of using the odd numbered dimension, you convert the dimension to an EVEN numbered dimension PLUS it’s improper fraction. Example. 33 1/4 inches is the exact same as 32 5/4 inches. then using the fraction trick. Half of that is 16 5/8 inches. (16 is half of 32, 5/8 is half of 5/4). Example. 67 3/4 is the same as 66 7/4 inches. Half is 33 7/8. Example. 129 1/2 is the same as 128 3/2 inches. Half is 64 3/4. One more thing. On your tape measure always look backwards at the previous even inch marking. If the measurement lands on a quarter, eighth, or half, count those increments forward from that even number. Example. 128 plus 2/2 plus 1/2 to get to tour measurements. All you are doing is adding a 2 to the top number of the faction. 128 and 3/2. Like my last example. Figuring the half is just half of the whole number plus half the fraction. Practice a little bit and you will become a master in no time. Thanks for a great channel.
Amazing Mark! Thanks for sharing that and that’s knowledge that everyone can benefit from! Reminds me (Jordan) when I learned that ‘percent’ means “for each hundred” and all of a sudden 16 percent of 400 became easy! 16 for each 100, 4 hundreds. 16x4=64!
@@johnjones4825 You will always end up at fractions of a milimeter. One milimeter is roughly 1/32". So, as long as you have to divide in half, you can't win by moving to metric.
I'm doing a kitchen reno and tripped upon a great product you may wish to try. It is called EZ-Level. They are metal feet system designed for base cabinets. They work great. All corners adjustable from the front and no need for wood shims that can shrink and move over time. Well worth the little extra money. They are designed to support the added weight of a stone countertop which crush soft wood shims.
8:20 - Just a tip on 240V range receptacles: I always orient them sideways rather than vertical so that the cord won't be pressed against the floor, but rather emerge from the plug to the side. It makes it a lot easier to plug in and slide under the range. All you need to do is remove the mud ring, turn it 90 degrees, then re-attach to the box.
Maaaaan, I'm up to my eyeballs in doing most of the things I've watched in your videos. Making new door casings, Cabinets, etc. I just discovered your channel about a week ago but I wish I would've found you sooner. I'm finishing the kitchen cabinets but I suuuure could've used these tips sooner. 2 thumbs up to the Stud Pack.
I love the planning! Putting the blocking behind the drywall a month ago because you knew you'd need it for the cabinets. That requires a lot of forethought, planning, and experience. Brilliant. If you did that during a reno at my house, I'd probably hug you.
@@stephentucker5406 maybe so but how many contractors doing this job would have planned out the cabinet install in enough detail to know where to put the blocking? Not saying they shouldn’t, just that I doubt most would have.
Cabinet measuring tips are great! I don’t think you realize how intelligent you really are, but you do a great job of communicating/teaching what you know.
Thank you for such an excellent video. If I end up re-doing my kitchen myself you will have helped me save a ton of money. I can’t thank you enough for that
EZ- Levelers will blow your mind in how easy it is to install cabinets, I attest it is worth the money spent up front. I also use a ratcheting truck load bar to install my uppers, it is that extra hand you always need and it never asks for a smoke break.
@David Alderson. I was going to add this tip, but I see you already did it. I'm a woman and a DIYer. I've installed 4 kitchens and each time my stone countertop installers comment on the fact that they never have to add any shims under the countertops because the cabinets are perfectly level. They really are worth every cent. Plus, I like the fact that my cabinets are resting on a metal foot and not a wood shim.
Back when I was a flooring installer I'd often be working in a house when the cabinet installers were there. About 1/2 of them would install the uppers first. Their reasoning was if they had the layout figured out correctly it was easier to install the uppers without the base cabinets in the way. They didn't have to reach & lift over the bases, easier on the back, and less chance of damaging anything.
Well, I guess since your husband‘s been doing it for 30 years, that’s the right way. I’ve been doing it for 30+ years and I’ve almost always install bases first. I’ve been screwed a couple times by starting with uppers and get to a pantry cabinet or a refrigerator panel and not have the tops lineup. As far as reaching over the base cabinet, you can always put a support that rest on the top of the base cabinet to support the upper cabinets, not difficult.
If you just take the handles off the shut-offs, the trim rings will cover the hole you just drilled without a problem. Standard ones, not oversized either. It's also much easier to install uppers uppers first.
Whenever I'm doing kitchens I always put a panel next to the fridge. I usually order a 30" deep panel. I pull the 24 " cabinet over the fridge. Out to the edge of the panel. This way the fridge has a built in look. I'm not a fan in seeing the fridge side. Thought of passing something along. I use those Jorgensen clamps and still use them. I do have the other face frame clamps. Fortunate I didn't buy them. A customer bought them for me when I did there kitchen. Great job fitting the face frames together. So many jobs I go to. The cabinets look like a blind man put them in. Thanks for your video's. You guys are my favorites.
Nice video…..I’m a contractor and do a lot of cabinets. I typically fix a piece of 1x2 to the top of uppers to fasten crown to. I’m interested to know how you guys do it? Been doing this for 20 years and still pick up great tips from pros like you guys. Thank you.
I personally hang my uppers before my lowers. And, I do that for two reasons. First, that way I'm not physically leaning over my lowers to hang the uppers. That is a killer on the back and arms. Second, I don't want the uppers falling on my lowers if I slip while holding them awkwardly over the lowers. But, that is just my personal preference. Otherwise, looks great fellas!
Same. I understand it’s a preference thing, but I’m also short and female. I use a cargo bar that ratchets to help me install uppers when doing it alone.
As a full time cabinet installer, many times the cabinets get delivered right into the home or office as close to the installation location as possible, so there isn't the luxury of having enough space to get the lowers out of the way for setting upper first. Occasionally you can have them placed in an adjacent room, but then you have to move them twice. More efficient to just carry them from the truck to the spot they go, and then work off of that. I'll get the lowers roughly placed where they go, then using my fastcap 3rd hand cabinet jacks to set the uppers. Then come back and set the lowers. With minimal help, you should be able to set a kitchen in 1-3 days, including handles, crown, shoe moulding Agree with all your methods, besides using wood shims. Composite snap off shims are more expensive but will never rot or compact over time.
Great job! I do cabinets with all of the same principles in mind. I find my jig saw to be a bit friendlier on those electrical cutouts and for finishing corners. The straight edge on the faces was what I was waiting for and you delivered.
Those spacer blocks for the appliances are a great idea. I can't believe I never thought of doing something like that all these years. Probably the best tip in this video.
@@johnnytocino9313 they measure and if the opening is incorrect or uneven, they’ll get the call and they have to miss a day of work to come up with a half ass solution
You only really need the spacer stick on top. By the time you level the cabinets, the bottom of the space should be right on. You typically need a stick across the top of the dishwasher for installation so it stays in if you install it flat. At the stove opening, I install behind the face frame at cabinet side at top so it doesn't damage the frame. Knock it out after installation. Only other tip is to screw all of the bases together at the face frames and level the cabinets as a single cabinet instead of a cabinet at a time. Level side to side at face frame, straight edge front of cabinets then level front to back all of the cabinet sides. If you have the drawers installed, you can shim the cabinet box side to side at the rear and not have to adjust the drawers later as well. 25+ years as cabinet installer and I do this in my dreams as well.
Great job explaining all the steps and most importantly the "why"!! Your approach and processes are so well thought out and planned, trying to take into account all of the application and use details. Thank you so much for being a professional role model to your son and this community. God Bless!
I love the Wooster snap lock 14" frame for large areas, 9" for everything else. Ready Patch tinted pink with red chalk line chalk for all my nail holes in trim and wood work. Yes you will have to sand the nail filler but no shrinking or birds eyes, and tinted pink so you NEVER forget where you patched.
When you’re cutting in with a brush you should back roll with a 4” weinnie roller to make sure the texture matches the rest of the wall. If you don’t your cut in area will be smooth and noticeable.
Also Make sure you paint the main part of the wall before the edge paint dries. If you edge the whole room then start the walls the couple of inches that you overlap the edge paint will have a different sheen. It can be really noticeable.
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 I prefer a 6 in with the hard plastic end. Keep a wet rag to keep excess paint off of it and that will allow you to paint right up to the wall with your trim.
If that is the technical term for those things, I am happy. I will definitely be calling them that from now on though. My biggest problem with them is the tip though..... I mean uh. Yeah, but rolling close that rounded edge always hits the wall and makes smears. What is your trick for that?
14:50 - On the upper receptacle (presumably for the dishwasher), I would have used a 2-gang box where the lower one is and installed a separate GFCI outlet for the dishwasher and disposal. For wiring, I would run 14/3 from the panel to the double box, then 14/2 from the box to a switch for the disposal. Configure it as an MWBC with shared neutral, and use one hot (red or black) for the disposal and other for the dishwasher. MWBC's still work with GFCI's as long as only the line terminals are involved.
Love your videos. Full of quality information, tips, and tricks. I'm a DIY homeowner doing a remodel in my basement. Im down to doors, trim, cabinets, tile, and counter tops. I've been procrastinating big time on the cabinets, and your video illustrates beautifully how to get this done. Now, there are a lot of similar videos posted on the topic, but for me, yours is the best I've seen yet. I know a little something about photography and video production as I've worked in the field over the last 30-plus years. It's a time consumning endeavor and a skill to produce well-done, easy to watch, entertaining, and informative content in a short presentation. I appreciate the visuals and the positive vibe present within your content. I have watched several of your videos now and look forward to watching future productions. You are a natural in front of the camera. Maybe a budding career is in your future within the building trades, education and infor-tainment. Keep up the good work. Great job! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours, and all your viewers. Cheers! : )
Good plan on the cabinets 35 and shim off the floor ...saves from future water damage and money for those who think finish floor should go under cabinets! I couldn't have done it better and I've set cabinets for 35 years...way to go Paul.
GRK makes screws specifically for connecting cabinet faces together. The have a very small head and a reversed thread near the head. They work great and are nearly invisible when you install them.
1:56 okay about your question about the 18" roller, okay when you're cutting in the edges, we normally use a 2' angle cut brush and make two runs. But if you have a good cut man he maybe able do one run with a 4" brush. As long as you feather it out, it will blend right in.
I recently just come across your videos and started watching them. I love the attention to detail and time you take to explain everything. I wanted to comment today on the painting video because I've been in the painting business 35 years. As far as the full face respirators they are definitely a good thing to go ahead and invest in. 3M is the biggest manufacturer of them and the cost around $200. If you are using quality paint and quality roller naps then you will usually not get that much paint splatter on the mask. They also sell plastic peel offs for the full-face respirators. They are pretty nice because they protect your eyes. They are a lot more bulky so for some jobs if you have good ventilation then I will usually opt for the 3M n95 pre-filter dust mask. As far as rolling up close to the wall when rolling the ceilings most people will never see that one or two inches the roller stops from the wall. Especially where you are in Louisiana it seems like most of the drywall is finished with knockdown or orange peel. Where I live in Georgia we have mostly smooth drywall finishing and there is a greater chance of seeing the difference where you have to stop short with the roller next to the wall so what I like to do is go ahead and RAM the 9-inch roller into the wall and I have a brush taped to a roller extension pole and that allows me to come behind it with one last stroke and smooth it out from the ground so I don't have to keep climbing the ladder .So maybe you can try that on your next painting drywall Adventure but honestly probably the only person who will ever see that is the person putting the paint on. I hope that might help and I enjoy all of your videos. Y'all have a very calm Pleasant and respectful attitude and just seem like nice folks. Keep up the good work!
I'm in the habit of recessing/insetting the wall behind fridges, so they don't stick out so far into the room (and you don't have to pay a premium for a counter-depth fridge). That one backs into an exterior wall, making it a bit harder to recess.
Smashed the 'Like' button again! I'm doing our kitchen cabinets this fall... Saved this video to my DIY folder for future reference! I love all that you guys do! Keep it up!
Im a general contractor and I always hire another company to come out and install and measure everything, Cabinets are difficult, but this video definitely made it easier for people to understand
Great idea, I have done this many times, but I always double check their plans/sketches before I agree to anything and before they start building them!
@@tomroume3178 Very true, I have noticed a couple times that they have little flaws that need to be fixed in their plans, the last thing you want is a homeowner that doesn't like the work after its all done, we all know how that goes lol.
Did the fixture shut off valves get replaced? Those old full turn valves always freeze up and usually require a wrench to turn them loose. All my remodels I always replace the waterline fixture shut offs with 1/4 turns.
Paul. Did you install short preventers into the electric boxes that where flush to the drywall? ( there plastic inserts that slid inside the box and on the face of the cabinet or wall plane) Per code the is to be no greater then 1/4” below the face and in the case of the cabinets that about 1/2 past the drywall face
I use a full face mask when spraying foam insulation and I had the same concern about a $60 mask that would be destroyed on the first use. I remeembered the dirt bike racers using a "tear-off" to recover site after mud splatter so I placed saran wrap over the clear plastic visor. It sticks well and only costs a penny or so, peel it off when done.
It's one thing to have knowledge and be good at something, but you also have the ability to teach. Communicating your thoughts and ideas in a way that people can understand exactly what you are doing is not easy and you do it very well!
I think your doing a great job learning how to back roll. I am a journeyman painter from Canada and your learning. Next bankroll job try bending the roller cage into a angle, the roller part. You will find rolling ceilings way easier. You no longer have to stand right under the roller looking at the paint drops falling on your face, roller will be in front of you,you neck will not get sore or as sore, as for a mask if I am using latex I prefer I good dust mask with air valve. I use a Filter cartridges. when using oil only. I have tryed the wider rollers but find them clumsy to work with harder to wash up.
For the leaking dual cartridge, you more than likely had the wrong size for your face. If you do decide to get the full face mask make sure you buy the tear-away replacements, keeps you from scratching the plastic face. Make sure you store them when not in use in an airtight container and clean them every time. Edit: they are fine with oil and solvent based paints.
The kitchen we built last year was a pain. We disassembled the old kitchen but used the old cabinets in the new area. With the way the fridge opened, we really had to customize by adding fillers and even shaving down edges of cabinets to make it work with the wall. The fridge closed was 36 inches but open it was 4inches wider, and it being up against the wall is was made it tricky.
Big tip, always try to put a cabinet against the wall (Broom cabinet or big filler minimum) to get a side by side refer away from the wall for the door swing. Refer shelves get in the way if you cant swing the door open.
In my experience with the full face respirator, the paint is dried like a dust when it lands on the face mask, so yes, you're wiping it (not that often) but it doesn't smear. Oil or alkyd may not dry as fast, though. For the corners; get a whizz roller... I know they're small... but way faster than a brush and cover more area. You can get 6" ones and they paint all the in into the corner and even a bit down the wall. They should screw onto any pole, too. Otherwise, I think they do sell 9" rollers with nap on the ends on Amazon. Kind of a specialty item, though.
I bought couple kitchen cabinet clamps for one DIY job, very helpful pull everything in alignment. Remodel kitchen alone slowly but cheaper than paying a contractor $300/hr here in San Francisco. Have long aluminum rectangular bar to locate floor high point. Everything so expensive, labor and material after the pandemic.
You really should level all of the bases to each other. If the floors are bad, you might be able to see the counter tops are at different heights from one side of the kitchen to the other. ( We had builders who would check this as well as any island should all be level to each other) A person could be sitting in another room and see this or if the two side are close enough or has a window bottom near the height of the counters it might be visually noticeable. The bottom of the toes can be trimmed to help get the bases lower to the ground if needed if floors are bad instead of lifting too high. When jacking up the cabinets, I find it easier to lift up the pry bar instead of pushing down on it. When you push down you will tend to pry the bottom of the cabinet away from the wall. Lifting up will push the bottoms back to the wall. You can also use a chisel instead which would fit in your workbag easier than a prybar. Takes a while to learn to set bases without having them move on you when you shim a corner but you covered all the important stuff. Great instructions to teach the DIY person though and what to look for.
We use full face respirators and we've developed a trick to keep them clean. We wrap a protective layer of plastic wrap (cling wrap) over the lense to use as a tear away at the end of the job. We use clear plastic cling wrap like you'd use in the kitchen. It's cheap, easy to use and protects the respirator.
Awesome cabinet install video for the intermediate installer. I've done a few kitchens is all. This was full of tips and confirms a lot of what I've learned along the way and wondered if others do it similar. Good job!
Beautiful work. If you’re a DIY dad and don’t have a long straight edge, tie a builders line (string) to two timber off cuts and clamp them at the extremities 1/4 or 1/2” proud off the face frames.
I have been watching your Awesome Stud Pack videos for several months now and appreciate and enjoy your commentary and very thorough explanations of your excellent and exceptional top quality work done correctly! - Great father and son teamwork! - What I realized today is Josh's smooth Camera technique is perfect! - I cannot watch videos with too many quick transitions or movement, otherwise I can get a little light headed and have to stop watching. So I appreciate your camera work as well! And yes I smack the like button before I watch each video! Keep up the great videos and excellent work! Thanks!
Great job explaining how you went about installing the cabinets great job installing the cabinets and showing all the little details. Easy to work with solid wood cabinets, plywood. Any water line for the refrigerator icemaker?
The air wedge bags are handy as heck for cabinets!! Even if you're just building one house, they're really affordable and work for a lot of projects.. Also, when locked out of your car, very handy for pumping a door open just enough to trip the lock (on your personal vehicle, of course!!)
@@StudPack There is no way to replace the "shim" on a jobsite, the air wedge is just another tool that has a multitude of applications. Love you guys!!!
When you said the fridge was going in the corner, I was so sure the door would hit wall or molding. Of course I didnt give you credit for using a tape measure and it looks to work just fine. Thanks for sharing your techniques. Charles
Goes to show the success planning brings. You’re a wise man Paul. Jordan is lucky to have such a patient and knowledgeable dad to work with. Also impressed you used actual cabinet screws to mount to the wall. I’ve seen so many nice cabinets installed with cheap construction screws and they look so ugly
I always like finished floor under the cabinets. No issues with stove not fitting then. I always paint drywall behind cabinets. Seals it. Potentially keeps growth down.
Did you remove the old copper grommets and compression nuts from the water lines under the sink? Also how did you know the height of the upper cabinets when you installed the cabinet over the refrigerator last? Great video!
You all do things so perfectly it blows my mind. You do a lot of pre planning. I bet you mull these things through your head days ahead (as we all should of course) to account for any error or complication and that is what makes you all SO GOOD and why you all have become my favorite RUclips channel. Perfection 👌🏽🤌🏽
I Find using a smaller roller like 4 inches or so is better for the corners because when you use a brush it leaves streaks. But when you use a little roller with fabric on the very edge you can get paint all the way into the corner and onto the side wall and then just go over it with a big roller for a streak- less professional finish
You need a stand to put your laser level on and it gives you a plane to level to side to side and front to back. Buy a pack of rechargeable batteries for the level that way you can run the level through the entire cabinet install. You can also start on one end of the run from the fridge opening and work across instead of having to draw all those lines. Also, hanging the upper cabinets first and using a jack stand will keep you from having to screw a board on the wall, as you move across you can still clamp your face frames and using a laser level with horizontal and vertical lines simultaneously will allow you to align the uppers and lowers. Using the actual laser line is substantially more accurate than popping or drawing lines.
WIire nuts are different colors so you know what size and how many wires for each nut. Romex has different colors to tell what size it is just by looking at it . Nut info is on bag or box.
3M PAPR respirator for the win. Once you use one you will never go back. Expensive, but buy-once, cry-once. The face mask is chemical and impact resistant, and you can get clear, peel off film to protect them from paint and scratches. Love you guys. And yes, you are pros, and better than most.
I've been painting professionally on and off since 1985 and 5 yrs ago got my first full face from Sherwin Williams and it was worth every penny. Peel off mylar sheilds are the way to go for protecting the face shield. Put them on in multiple layers so you can clean them a few times with a damp rag or slightly damp with mineral spirits. Once it looses clarity peel off a layer of mylar to reveal the fresh one. Another person mentioned using dust masks for latex which I agree with but the mylar shields have glue spots on the edge that can stick to a spray sock (head covering) with a little duct tape and work great for keeping it off your face.
Have you ever installed base cabinets on a separate toekick base? It makes it a lot easier to level the base and attach it to the floor and wall, the set and slide the cabinets in place. And where there is a sink I leave it open, so the plumber doesnt have to lay on the front floor of the cabinet. If the plumbing comes thru the wall, then just slide the separate floor section in and your done. If it comes up thru the floor, the floor section is made short so it slides in without hitting the plumbing. You loose a little storage, but install and maintenance is a lot easier.
Hey Antonio. You must be relatively new to the Pack! We’ve gone over it a few times, I believe we did it in a video in this series! We’ll definitely talk about it again 😎👊🏼
Great showmanship! How many screws do you apply to each cabinet unit? What size screws? Do you feel washers with the screws are better, or overkill? Thanks!
Paul got those wood block clamps that you held the cabinet faces together with when he was 10 years old, didn't he? :-) J/K... nothing wrong with using tools forever. Great video.
Great job guys, does the window apron interfere with the fridge door? I saw you open the freezer door at the end but not the fridge and I cringed at the thought that the fridge wouldn’t open properly. Another quick one, I’m wondering if you’d recommend installing the floor first in an ideal world so it would go under the cabinets and make it more “future proof”? All the best.
Doors swing open 90 degrees and all refrigerator drawers open and are removable for cleaning. Our flooring manufacturer does not recommend installing cabinets over the floor. They want the floor to be able to expand and contract without the weight of the cabinets on them. 👍👍
10:02 ~ cabinet hanger's do this all the time and then when I come back to tell the home owner that their *New Dishwasher* that they replaced because people do that from time to time, now probably doesn't fit because they had their floors redone and the floor guy also didn't account for the half inch when they elected to not disconnect the dishwasher and stove and bring them out because they weren't paid or licensed to
Good job guys. It looks sharp as it should. I was surprised that you guys didn't fill the set holes in the cove with latex filler or similar. Paul usually knows a lot of the old tricks such as that.
Because of Stud Pack I invested in a level (Christmas gift). I used it for a cabinet install, not sure how I have done without it all these years! I also used it to line up studs for where to put screws; I didnt miss one stud!
I use a full face respirator. Since I only spray water bases products I keep a wet sponge around to clean off the occasional overspray. DON'T use any solvents! It will turn it into a melty plastic mess😂. I love this thing so much I use it for cutting grass!
I always make my cabinets without the footings. That way you set up the footings first and make it level. Then put the cabinets on top. Makes everything more convenient. Especially if you are working alone. Maybe something you guys could look into and see if you like it.
Very rarely done in the US. Most cabinets are pre-built or RTA and with footing as part of the wall. And custom cabinet makers always have an extra pair of hands so they would rather move fast than having to double-install cabinets
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When I cut all the holes in the back of the cabinets I do all my measurements on a piece of cardboard first, cut that out make sure its right with the wall then I just use that as a template and draw all the holes on the cabinet.
Nice 👍 thx Jeffrey 👊
Do the upper first
I usually do this, especially when the wall behind the cabinet is in rough shape.
But when the wall is as nicely finished as it is in this job I would consider cutting a square or rectangular opening in the back of the cabinet to allow the access to the utilities and land the covers and escutcheons right on the drywall as God intended.
Great idea!
Totally forgot to get shots of the ceiling with the light against it Gang! Don’t worry we’ll show it in the next video! Thanks for the support guys!
to my personal preference that white color was 1 000000000% greater then the 2nd color. for me that color is to weird, its not yellow, its not white...
Can we clone your dad and place him in every major metropolitan area in the US? It would force every other contractor to raise their game considerably. Guy is amazing.
I've seen contractors take a jigsaw to the back of the sink base cabinet and randomly cut out a huge hole because they didn't want to spend 5 minutes drilling holes for the pipes. They definitely couldn't get away with that bs if they had better standards to compare to.
Lot of good contractors in any area. I think the issue is their advertising. Not to mention if they are good they are gonna be busy all the time. I think the hacks in the contractor world are people who get too much work too fast and start cutting corners to get more done.
Its a shame. I’ve ripped out a lot of bad work in my days. Best you can do is research or ask people in your neighborhood who they use and if they are good. Good contractors are definitely a dying breed. I think my generation is gonna change that though. (Millennials) cause it seems like the past generations that always do the whole “it’ll be fine” method.
A big issue too is the game has changed and a lot of the older guys never learned how to use a lot of the newer products/methods.
To be fair, good contractors absolutely exist, in every city. The problem often comes from cost vs expectations. The customers who routinely complain about shotty service are often the same customers who will hire as cheap as they can, and try to save a penny wherever possible. While there is nothing wrong with being on a budget, you need to budget your expectations in those instances as well.
@@kevinr3263 Spot on. Customers who can’t trust you do do the job that they hired you for are usually just control freaks, who have to have input on everything.
I fabricate stone countertops and your attention to straight cabinets makes a massive difference in the end result! Stone doesn’t bend, we have tried!! Excellent work as always.
Because you guys are my favorite home improvement guys ever, I’m gonna throw in a tip to you guys for finding centers.
It’s a math trick. So I’ll go through some examples so you can see the visual on what is happening.
Since half of a fraction is the same as doubling the Denominator, half of 1/2 is 1/4. Half of 3/4 is 3/8. Half of 7/8 is 7/16. Etc.
If you are working with an EVEN NUMBER. It’s still pretty easy. Half of 64 1/4 is 32 1/8. Half of 132 3/4 is 66 3/8. Half of 44 5/16 is 22 5/32.
So far so good, and you can do these in your head if you have some confidence with things.
What happens when things go ODD. Well, there is a trick. Instead of using the odd numbered dimension, you convert the dimension to an EVEN numbered dimension PLUS it’s improper fraction.
Example. 33 1/4 inches is the exact same as 32 5/4 inches. then using the fraction trick. Half of that is 16 5/8 inches. (16 is half of 32, 5/8 is half of 5/4).
Example. 67 3/4 is the same as 66 7/4 inches. Half is 33 7/8.
Example. 129 1/2 is the same as 128 3/2 inches. Half is 64 3/4.
One more thing. On your tape measure always look backwards at the previous even inch marking. If the measurement lands on a quarter, eighth, or half, count those increments forward from that even number. Example. 128 plus 2/2 plus 1/2 to get to tour measurements. All you are doing is adding a 2 to the top number of the faction. 128 and 3/2. Like my last example. Figuring the half is just half of the whole number plus half the fraction.
Practice a little bit and you will become a master in no time.
Thanks for a great channel.
Thanks. You made that very simple to understand.
Amazing Mark! Thanks for sharing that and that’s knowledge that everyone can benefit from! Reminds me (Jordan) when I learned that ‘percent’ means “for each hundred” and all of a sudden 16 percent of 400 became easy! 16 for each 100, 4 hundreds. 16x4=64!
or go metric 😀
Millimeters are so much simpler....divide by 2 or whatever to go smaller, multiply to go bigger. Boom, done.
@@johnjones4825 You will always end up at fractions of a milimeter. One milimeter is roughly 1/32". So, as long as you have to divide in half, you can't win by moving to metric.
I'm doing a kitchen reno and tripped upon a great product you may wish to try. It is called EZ-Level. They are metal feet system designed for base cabinets. They work great. All corners adjustable from the front and no need for wood shims that can shrink and move over time. Well worth the little extra money. They are designed to support the added weight of a stone countertop which crush soft wood shims.
8:20 - Just a tip on 240V range receptacles: I always orient them sideways rather than vertical so that the cord won't be pressed against the floor, but rather emerge from the plug to the side. It makes it a lot easier to plug in and slide under the range. All you need to do is remove the mud ring, turn it 90 degrees, then re-attach to the box.
Genius tip. I'll start doing this. Thanks.
So you're saying you lay it on the ground?
Maaaaan, I'm up to my eyeballs in doing most of the things I've watched in your videos. Making new door casings, Cabinets, etc. I just discovered your channel about a week ago but I wish I would've found you sooner. I'm finishing the kitchen cabinets but I suuuure could've used these tips sooner. 2 thumbs up to the Stud Pack.
I love the planning! Putting the blocking behind the drywall a month ago because you knew you'd need it for the cabinets. That requires a lot of forethought, planning, and experience. Brilliant. If you did that during a reno at my house, I'd probably hug you.
Hello. That’s carpentry 101. To plan ahead and install blocking
@@stephentucker5406 maybe so but how many contractors doing this job would have planned out the cabinet install in enough detail to know where to put the blocking?
Not saying they shouldn’t, just that I doubt most would have.
More good work from Paul, the Charles Bronson of Contractors
Cabinet measuring tips are great! I don’t think you realize how intelligent you really are, but you do a great job of communicating/teaching what you know.
Thank you for such an excellent video. If I end up re-doing my kitchen myself you will have helped me save a ton of money. I can’t thank you enough for that
EZ- Levelers will blow your mind in how easy it is to install cabinets, I attest it is worth the money spent up front. I also use a ratcheting truck load bar to install my uppers, it is that extra hand you always need and it never asks for a smoke break.
@David Alderson. I was going to add this tip, but I see you already did it. I'm a woman and a DIYer. I've installed 4 kitchens and each time my stone countertop installers comment on the fact that they never have to add any shims under the countertops because the cabinets are perfectly level. They really are worth every cent. Plus, I like the fact that my cabinets are resting on a metal foot and not a wood shim.
Back when I was a flooring installer I'd often be working in a house when the cabinet installers were there. About 1/2 of them would install the uppers first. Their reasoning was if they had the layout figured out correctly it was easier to install the uppers without the base cabinets in the way. They didn't have to reach & lift over the bases, easier on the back, and less chance of damaging anything.
Uppers are ALWAYS installed first.
Actually, not always!
@@ryankoser7935 My husband has been doing it for 30 years. The only time bases go in first is when there's no uppers to go in, otherwise....
Well, I guess since your husband‘s been doing it for 30 years, that’s the right way. I’ve been doing it for 30+ years and I’ve almost always install bases first. I’ve been screwed a couple times by starting with uppers and get to a pantry cabinet or a refrigerator panel and not have the tops lineup. As far as reaching over the base cabinet, you can always put a support that rest on the top of the base cabinet to support the upper cabinets, not difficult.
If you just take the handles off the shut-offs, the trim rings will cover the hole you just drilled without a problem. Standard ones, not oversized either. It's also much easier to install uppers uppers first.
Whenever I'm doing kitchens I always put a panel next to the fridge. I usually order a 30" deep panel. I pull the 24 " cabinet over the fridge. Out to the edge of the panel. This way the fridge has a built in look. I'm not a fan in seeing the fridge side. Thought of passing something along. I use those Jorgensen clamps and still use them. I do have the other face frame clamps. Fortunate I didn't buy them. A customer bought them for me when I did there kitchen. Great job fitting the face frames together. So many jobs I go to. The cabinets look like a blind man put them in. Thanks for your video's. You guys are my favorites.
Close to breaking the 80K mark boys! Fun watching this project come together and fun watching this channel grow.
Wish the person who did my kitchen took this much care.
Or even leveled the refrigerator so the doors don't come slamming against me as I'm trying to find things. 😐
@@kenmore01 Ref doors *should* try to close themselves, else you will get up one day to a frozen compressor and warm food.
@@rogerbritus9378 True, but too much is just annoying.
Nice video…..I’m a contractor and do a lot of cabinets. I typically fix a piece of 1x2 to the top of uppers to fasten crown to. I’m interested to know how you guys do it?
Been doing this for 20 years and still pick up great tips from pros like you guys. Thank you.
I personally hang my uppers before my lowers. And, I do that for two reasons. First, that way I'm not physically leaning over my lowers to hang the uppers. That is a killer on the back and arms. Second, I don't want the uppers falling on my lowers if I slip while holding them awkwardly over the lowers. But, that is just my personal preference. Otherwise, looks great fellas!
me too
Same here.
Same. Also use third hand poles.
Yep
Same. I understand it’s a preference thing, but I’m also short and female. I use a cargo bar that ratchets to help me install uppers when doing it alone.
As a full time cabinet installer, many times the cabinets get delivered right into the home or office as close to the installation location as possible, so there isn't the luxury of having enough space to get the lowers out of the way for setting upper first. Occasionally you can have them placed in an adjacent room, but then you have to move them twice. More efficient to just carry them from the truck to the spot they go, and then work off of that.
I'll get the lowers roughly placed where they go, then using my fastcap 3rd hand cabinet jacks to set the uppers. Then come back and set the lowers.
With minimal help, you should be able to set a kitchen in 1-3 days, including handles, crown, shoe moulding
Agree with all your methods, besides using wood shims. Composite snap off shims are more expensive but will never rot or compact over time.
Great job! I do cabinets with all of the same principles in mind. I find my jig saw to be a bit friendlier on those electrical cutouts and for finishing corners. The straight edge on the faces was what I was waiting for and you delivered.
Thx 👍. Yeah I forgot my jigsaw that day 😡
I totally understand. I was happy to see your old Jorgensen clamps. They do just fine.
Those spacer blocks for the appliances are a great idea. I can't believe I never thought of doing something like that all these years. Probably the best tip in this video.
No doubt. I did that on a job and the other guys including the boss were like, "that's a waste of time." Can you beleive that?
@@johnnytocino9313 they measure and if the opening is incorrect or uneven, they’ll get the call and they have to miss a day of work to come up with a half ass solution
You only really need the spacer stick on top. By the time you level the cabinets, the bottom of the space should be right on. You typically need a stick across the top of the dishwasher for installation so it stays in if you install it flat. At the stove opening, I install behind the face frame at cabinet side at top so it doesn't damage the frame. Knock it out after installation. Only other tip is to screw all of the bases together at the face frames and level the cabinets as a single cabinet instead of a cabinet at a time. Level side to side at face frame, straight edge front of cabinets then level front to back all of the cabinet sides. If you have the drawers installed, you can shim the cabinet box side to side at the rear and not have to adjust the drawers later as well. 25+ years as cabinet installer and I do this in my dreams as well.
Great job explaining all the steps and most importantly the "why"!! Your approach and processes are so well thought out and planned, trying to take into account all of the application and use details. Thank you so much for being a professional role model to your son and this community. God Bless!
Thx Perry 👍💪
I love the Wooster snap lock 14" frame for large areas, 9" for everything else. Ready Patch tinted pink with red chalk line chalk for all my nail holes in trim and wood work. Yes you will have to sand the nail filler but no shrinking or birds eyes, and tinted pink so you NEVER forget where you patched.
Awesome thx 👍
When you’re cutting in with a brush you should back roll with a 4” weinnie roller to make sure the texture matches the rest of the wall. If you don’t your cut in area will be smooth and noticeable.
Also Make sure you paint the main part of the wall before the edge paint dries. If you edge the whole room then start the walls the couple of inches that you overlap the edge paint will have a different sheen. It can be really noticeable.
Exactly, it's all about the 'texture' created by the rollers. A brush stroke is never comparable.
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 I prefer a 6 in with the hard plastic end. Keep a wet rag to keep excess paint off of it and that will allow you to paint right up to the wall with your trim.
If that is the technical term for those things, I am happy. I will definitely be calling them that from now on though. My biggest problem with them is the tip though..... I mean uh. Yeah, but rolling close that rounded edge always hits the wall and makes smears. What is your trick for that?
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 p😊
14:50 - On the upper receptacle (presumably for the dishwasher), I would have used a 2-gang box where the lower one is and installed a separate GFCI outlet for the dishwasher and disposal. For wiring, I would run 14/3 from the panel to the double box, then 14/2 from the box to a switch for the disposal. Configure it as an MWBC with shared neutral, and use one hot (red or black) for the disposal and other for the dishwasher. MWBC's still work with GFCI's as long as only the line terminals are involved.
Love your videos. Full of quality information, tips, and tricks.
I'm a DIY homeowner doing a remodel in my basement. Im down to doors, trim, cabinets, tile, and counter tops. I've been procrastinating big time on the cabinets, and your video illustrates beautifully how to get this done. Now, there are a lot of similar videos posted on the topic, but for me, yours is the best I've seen yet.
I know a little something about photography and video production as I've worked in the field over the last 30-plus years. It's a time consumning endeavor and a skill to produce well-done, easy to watch, entertaining, and informative content in a short presentation. I appreciate the visuals and the positive vibe present within your content. I have watched several of your videos now and look forward to watching future productions. You are a natural in front of the camera. Maybe a budding career is in your future within the building trades, education and infor-tainment. Keep up the good work. Great job!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours, and all your viewers.
Cheers! : )
Good plan on the cabinets 35 and shim off the floor ...saves from future water damage and money for those who think finish floor should go under cabinets! I couldn't have done it better and I've set cabinets for 35 years...way to go Paul.
Much appreciated Mark thx 👊
Great channel. Love the planning you do. Always tell my nephew every minute of planning saves 20-30 minutes of work!
that color works so well with those cabinet interiors. damn sweet. Great job!
I wish you guys were in Minnesota, would hire you even if you guys were booked 5 years out! So much fun watching this project come together!
hey guys ... that detail you pointed out with the roller and how figure out the finish and method is absolutely PRO!!!
Great work as always, every episode is fun to watch, the detail on explanations why/how you do things set you apart. Pretty cool work you two
GRK makes screws specifically for connecting cabinet faces together. The have a very small head and a reversed thread near the head. They work great and are nearly invisible when you install them.
1:56 okay about your question about the 18" roller, okay when you're cutting in the edges, we normally use a 2' angle cut brush and make two runs. But if you have a good cut man he maybe able do one run with a 4" brush. As long as you feather it out, it will blend right in.
GRK screws are the best so strong and versatile I use them too from cabinetry to building decks. Great work dudes!
I recently just come across your videos and started watching them. I love the attention to detail and time you take to explain everything. I wanted to comment today on the painting video because I've been in the painting business 35 years. As far as the full face respirators they are definitely a good thing to go ahead and invest in. 3M is the biggest manufacturer of them and the cost around $200. If you are using quality paint and quality roller naps then you will usually not get that much paint splatter on the mask. They also sell plastic peel offs for the full-face respirators. They are pretty nice because they protect your eyes. They are a lot more bulky so for some jobs if you have good ventilation then I will usually opt for the 3M n95 pre-filter dust mask. As far as rolling up close to the wall when rolling the ceilings most people will never see that one or two inches the roller stops from the wall. Especially where you are in Louisiana it seems like most of the drywall is finished with knockdown or orange peel. Where I live in Georgia we have mostly smooth drywall finishing and there is a greater chance of seeing the difference where you have to stop short with the roller next to the wall so what I like to do is go ahead and RAM the 9-inch roller into the wall and I have a brush taped to a roller extension pole and that allows me to come behind it with one last stroke and smooth it out from the ground so I don't have to keep climbing the ladder .So maybe you can try that on your next painting drywall Adventure but honestly probably the only person who will ever see that is the person putting the paint on. I hope that might help and I enjoy all of your videos. Y'all have a very calm Pleasant and respectful attitude and just seem like nice folks. Keep up the good work!
I'm in the habit of recessing/insetting the wall behind fridges, so they don't stick out so far into the room (and you don't have to pay a premium for a counter-depth fridge). That one backs into an exterior wall, making it a bit harder to recess.
👍💪
Me too. It's a great look and it only cost sweat equity
Smashed the 'Like' button again! I'm doing our kitchen cabinets this fall... Saved this video to my DIY folder for future reference! I love all that you guys do! Keep it up!
Im a general contractor and I always hire another company to come out and install and measure everything, Cabinets are difficult, but this video definitely made it easier for people to understand
Great idea, I have done this many times, but I always double check their plans/sketches before I agree to anything and before they start building them!
@@tomroume3178 Very true, I have noticed a couple times that they have little flaws that need to be fixed in their plans, the last thing you want is a homeowner that doesn't like the work after its all done, we all know how that goes lol.
New use for the Jorgensen clamps that have been collecting dust for years. Thanks guys.
When I used to Industrial Spray towers, we would apply a little Vaseline to all exposed skin areas. It made cleaning up real easy.
Great video thanks! I would recommend doing uppers first makes it a little easier I think but with such a small job no biggie.
Those GRKs are the best for cabinet installations, it's the only way to go. Great tips on the cutouts too!
I love the detailed explanations of the projections of measurement/cuts for the install of the cabinets! 👍
Did the fixture shut off valves get replaced? Those old full turn valves always freeze up and usually require a wrench to turn them loose. All my remodels I always replace the waterline fixture shut offs with 1/4 turns.
1/4 turns on the way for sure. That’s all I use 👍
Gotta love how the drywallers texture anything and everything not covered
Paul. Did you install short preventers into the electric boxes that where flush to the drywall? ( there plastic inserts that slid inside the box and on the face of the cabinet or wall plane) Per code the is to be no greater then 1/4” below the face and in the case of the cabinets that about 1/2 past the drywall face
We use adjustable boxes that move in or out to account for varying wall thickness, tile etc. I’ll show them next video 👍
I use a full face mask when spraying foam insulation and I had the same concern about a $60 mask that would be destroyed on the first use. I remeembered the dirt bike racers using a "tear-off" to recover site after mud splatter so I placed saran wrap over the clear plastic visor. It sticks well and only costs a penny or so, peel it off when done.
I always used a 4” foam cabinet roller for the edges since it’s rounded over.
helping me out a bunch! Just got into an epoxy and cabinet business. Your videos help with questions I have been needing answered.
It's one thing to have knowledge and be good at something, but you also have the ability to teach. Communicating your thoughts and ideas in a way that people can understand exactly what you are doing is not easy and you do it very well!
Oooh Rah, Brother! Nice Work. Glad to see your son working along side you.
Thx David 👊🇺🇸
I think your doing a great job learning how to back roll. I am a journeyman painter from Canada and your learning. Next bankroll job try bending the roller cage into a angle, the roller part. You will find rolling ceilings way easier. You no longer have to stand right under the roller looking at the paint drops falling on your face, roller will be in front of you,you neck will not get sore or as sore, as for a mask if I am using latex I prefer I good dust mask with air valve. I use a Filter cartridges. when using oil only. I have tryed the wider rollers but find them clumsy to work with harder to wash up.
For the leaking dual cartridge, you more than likely had the wrong size for your face. If you do decide to get the full face mask make sure you buy the tear-away replacements, keeps you from scratching the plastic face. Make sure you store them when not in use in an airtight container and clean them every time.
Edit: they are fine with oil and solvent based paints.
The kitchen we built last year was a pain. We disassembled the old kitchen but used the old cabinets in the new area. With the way the fridge opened, we really had to customize by adding fillers and even shaving down edges of cabinets to make it work with the wall. The fridge closed was 36 inches but open it was 4inches wider, and it being up against the wall is was made it tricky.
Big tip, always try to put a cabinet against the wall (Broom cabinet or big filler minimum) to get a side by side refer away from the wall for the door swing. Refer shelves get in the way if you cant swing the door open.
In my experience with the full face respirator, the paint is dried like a dust when it lands on the face mask, so yes, you're wiping it (not that often) but it doesn't smear.
Oil or alkyd may not dry as fast, though.
For the corners; get a whizz roller... I know they're small... but way faster than a brush and cover more area. You can get 6" ones and they paint all the in into the corner and even a bit down the wall. They should screw onto any pole, too.
Otherwise, I think they do sell 9" rollers with nap on the ends on Amazon. Kind of a specialty item, though.
That freezer door opening at that window 😵 young me would bust that window out rushin to get freezepops out in the summer
I bought couple kitchen cabinet clamps for one DIY job, very helpful pull everything in alignment. Remodel kitchen alone slowly but cheaper than paying a contractor $300/hr here in San Francisco. Have long aluminum rectangular bar to locate floor high point. Everything so expensive, labor and material after the pandemic.
You really should level all of the bases to each other. If the floors are bad, you might be able to see the counter tops are at different heights from one side of the kitchen to the other. ( We had builders who would check this as well as any island should all be level to each other) A person could be sitting in another room and see this or if the two side are close enough or has a window bottom near the height of the counters it might be visually noticeable. The bottom of the toes can be trimmed to help get the bases lower to the ground if needed if floors are bad instead of lifting too high. When jacking up the cabinets, I find it easier to lift up the pry bar instead of pushing down on it. When you push down you will tend to pry the bottom of the cabinet away from the wall. Lifting up will push the bottoms back to the wall. You can also use a chisel instead which would fit in your workbag easier than a prybar. Takes a while to learn to set bases without having them move on you when you shim a corner but you covered all the important stuff. Great instructions to teach the DIY person though and what to look for.
17:34 Ouch! No knee pads? I my age I couldn't do that with out a subsequent ER visit... Great content as usual.
You guys are not only great builders, but great teachers as well!
We use full face respirators and we've developed a trick to keep them clean.
We wrap a protective layer of plastic wrap (cling wrap) over the lense to use as a tear away at the end of the job.
We use clear plastic cling wrap like you'd use in the kitchen. It's cheap, easy to use and protects the respirator.
Awesome cabinet install video for the intermediate installer. I've done a few kitchens is all. This was full of tips and confirms a lot of what I've learned along the way and wondered if others do it similar. Good job!
Thx !!👍💪
Beautiful work. If you’re a DIY dad and don’t have a long straight edge, tie a builders line (string) to two timber off cuts and clamp them at the extremities 1/4 or 1/2” proud off the face frames.
I have been watching your Awesome Stud Pack videos for several months now and appreciate and enjoy your commentary and very thorough explanations of your excellent and exceptional top quality work done correctly! - Great father and son teamwork! - What I realized today is Josh's smooth Camera technique is perfect! - I cannot watch videos with too many quick transitions or movement, otherwise I can get a little light headed and have to stop watching. So I appreciate your camera work as well! And yes I smack the like button before I watch each video! Keep up the great videos and excellent work! Thanks!
Much appreciated thx 👍
Great job explaining how you went about installing the cabinets great job installing the cabinets and showing all the little details. Easy to work with solid wood cabinets, plywood. Any water line for the refrigerator icemaker?
Thx Fred. Yes there’s a water supply behind the fridge 👍
The air wedge bags are handy as heck for cabinets!! Even if you're just building one house, they're really affordable and work for a lot of projects.. Also, when locked out of your car, very handy for pumping a door open just enough to trip the lock (on your personal vehicle, of course!!)
I have one in my truck as part of vehicle entry kit. Didn’t even think to use it 😡
@@StudPack There is no way to replace the "shim" on a jobsite, the air wedge is just another tool that has a multitude of applications. Love you guys!!!
When you said the fridge was going in the corner, I was so sure the door would hit wall or molding. Of course I didnt give you credit for using a tape measure and it looks to work just fine. Thanks for sharing your techniques. Charles
You got it Charles 👊
Enjoy watching you 2 working together!
Goes to show the success planning brings. You’re a wise man Paul. Jordan is lucky to have such a patient and knowledgeable dad to work with. Also impressed you used actual cabinet screws to mount to the wall. I’ve seen so many nice cabinets installed with cheap construction screws and they look so ugly
Great videos guys.
It’s nice to see someone take the time to explain the correct way to do things.
I always like finished floor under the cabinets. No issues with stove not fitting then.
I always paint drywall behind cabinets. Seals it. Potentially keeps growth down.
Our particular flooring can’t go under cabinets per manufacturer 👍. They want it to be able to expand contract without weight of cabinets 👊
@@StudPack
Never dealt with floating. Interesting.
Did you remove the old copper grommets and compression nuts from the water lines under the sink? Also how did you know the height of the upper cabinets when you installed the cabinet over the refrigerator last? Great video!
Yes all new plumbing under the sink 👍 and the tops of all the cabinets line up. That’s the easy way of explaining how those cabinets align 💪
ABSOLUTELY LOVE that paint color!! Would really love to know what color it is!! Everything looks great guys!!
Excellent video. My 1st time learning how to hang/install cabinets. Great tutorial + some pro tips. Many thanks
You all do things so perfectly it blows my mind. You do a lot of pre planning. I bet you mull these things through your head days ahead (as we all should of course) to account for any error or complication and that is what makes you all SO GOOD and why you all have become my favorite RUclips channel. Perfection 👌🏽🤌🏽
Thx Eric 👍💪
Well said, experience helps as well and he has a lot of it!
I Find using a smaller roller like 4 inches or so is better for the corners because when you use a brush it leaves streaks. But when you use a little roller with fabric on the very edge you can get paint all the way into the corner and onto the side wall and then just go over it with a big roller for a streak- less professional finish
You need a stand to put your laser level on and it gives you a plane to level to side to side and front to back. Buy a pack of rechargeable batteries for the level that way you can run the level through the entire cabinet install. You can also start on one end of the run from the fridge opening and work across instead of having to draw all those lines. Also, hanging the upper cabinets first and using a jack stand will keep you from having to screw a board on the wall, as you move across you can still clamp your face frames and using a laser level with horizontal and vertical lines simultaneously will allow you to align the uppers and lowers. Using the actual laser line is substantially more accurate than popping or drawing lines.
WIire nuts are different colors so you know what size and how many wires for each nut. Romex has different colors to tell what size it is just by looking at it . Nut info is on bag or box.
3M PAPR respirator for the win. Once you use one you will never go back. Expensive, but buy-once, cry-once. The face mask is chemical and impact resistant, and you can get clear, peel off film to protect them from paint and scratches.
Love you guys. And yes, you are pros, and better than most.
Much appreciated Hiker Bro 👍
I've been painting professionally on and off since 1985 and 5 yrs ago got my first full face from Sherwin Williams and it was worth every penny. Peel off mylar sheilds are the way to go for protecting the face shield. Put them on in multiple layers so you can clean them a few times with a damp rag or slightly damp with mineral spirits. Once it looses clarity peel off a layer of mylar to reveal the fresh one. Another person mentioned using dust masks for latex which I agree with but the mylar shields have glue spots on the edge that can stick to a spray sock (head covering) with a little duct tape and work great for keeping it off your face.
U guys r sooooo talented. Great job once again!!!!
I always use a 14 inch roller it fits in the 5 gallon bucket of paint keeps it fresh at the end of the day
Have you ever installed base cabinets on a separate toekick base? It makes it a lot easier to level the base and attach it to the floor and wall, the set and slide the cabinets in place. And where there is a sink I leave it open, so the plumber doesnt have to lay on the front floor of the cabinet. If the plumbing comes thru the wall, then just slide the separate floor section in and your done. If it comes up thru the floor, the floor section is made short so it slides in without hitting the plumbing. You loose a little storage, but install and maintenance is a lot easier.
I never have Thomas. Sounds cool though 👊
I love his being meticulous on all the important details of this install. This install is of great quality build! I'm a subscriber now!!
Thx Elaine 👍
Hey, you use the same water hose, spin roller cleaning method I do! Works good and makes the roller cover last a long time.
i would love to hear how the channel started. espcially coming from the perpective of the older generation being introduce to making videos.
Hey Antonio. You must be relatively new to the Pack! We’ve gone over it a few times, I believe we did it in a video in this series! We’ll definitely talk about it again 😎👊🏼
Great showmanship! How many screws do you apply to each cabinet unit? What size screws? Do you feel washers with the screws are better, or overkill? Thanks!
Damn the professionalism is almost too much for me to bear. I feel like my head is going to explode. Nice work boys.
Thx King 👍👊
Paul got those wood block clamps that you held the cabinet faces together with when he was 10 years old, didn't he? :-) J/K... nothing wrong with using tools forever. Great video.
I was 13 thank you very much 😂😂💪
Very informative. Looking to redo our kitchen and cabinets and this video helps figure out some of the best ways to achieve. Thanks.
Great job guys, does the window apron interfere with the fridge door? I saw you open the freezer door at the end but not the fridge and I cringed at the thought that the fridge wouldn’t open properly. Another quick one, I’m wondering if you’d recommend installing the floor first in an ideal world so it would go under the cabinets and make it more “future proof”? All the best.
Doors swing open 90 degrees and all refrigerator drawers open and are removable for cleaning. Our flooring manufacturer does not recommend installing cabinets over the floor. They want the floor to be able to expand and contract without the weight of the cabinets on them. 👍👍
10:02 ~ cabinet hanger's do this all the time
and then when I come back to tell the home owner that their *New Dishwasher* that they replaced because people do that from time to time, now probably doesn't fit because they had their floors redone and the floor guy also didn't account for the half inch when they elected to not disconnect the dishwasher and stove and bring them out because they weren't paid or licensed to
I run into that all the time
You need a license to disconnect a stove and dishwasher? Where? I do it all the time.
Good job guys. It looks sharp as it should. I was surprised that you guys didn't fill the set holes in the cove with latex filler or similar. Paul usually knows a lot of the old tricks such as that.
I don’t know how I missed those… It figures it would be the one shot included in the video😂😂
@@StudPack :-D Oh well. At least nobody got hurt in the making of the film.
I am not going to say you are the best but you are one of the few very very best
Your son should be proud of you thanks
Because of Stud Pack I invested in a level (Christmas gift). I used it for a cabinet install, not sure how I have done without it all these years! I also used it to line up studs for where to put screws; I didnt miss one stud!
I use a full face respirator. Since I only spray water bases products I keep a wet sponge around to clean off the occasional overspray. DON'T use any solvents! It will turn it into a melty plastic mess😂. I love this thing so much I use it for cutting grass!
I always make my cabinets without the footings. That way you set up the footings first and make it level. Then put the cabinets on top. Makes everything more convenient. Especially if you are working alone. Maybe something you guys could look into and see if you like it.
Very rarely done in the US. Most cabinets are pre-built or RTA and with footing as part of the wall. And custom cabinet makers always have an extra pair of hands so they would rather move fast than having to double-install cabinets
For corner cut in, use a 3” angled brush and a 4” roller. You can brush in the corners then roll out a 4-5” for a bigger roller later.