Amazing that I stumbled on to this video and going to try and figure out how to locate your other ones that you have and I am. I did subscribe and I will continue watching. I am doing the exact same process at this very time. I'm doing a 70 Nova SS 396 car. The only additional is I'm doing from the firewall. Actually the cowl dash panel where the wiper motors Mount is how bad mine was rusted or my customer's car was rusted. So basically I'm doing from the back of the dash pad to the tail lights including inner and outer rockers And also rear frame rails. Oddly on my car with the tail light panel quarter panels, the wheel tubs are in great condition which is unusual. I've been doing antiquing classic Restoration for 45 years and I have the certain way I do things. Other people see as odd, but I don't want to compliment you on your style and your approach. It is identical to the way I do my stuff. You're a lot younger version of me, but we have the same technique and style. It's like you learned it the same School of hard knocks that I learned from my compliments out to you and also on your ability to keep an instructional video interesting. You have great skill at that also. I'd love to be able to trade war stories with you, but that probably won't happen that maybe in the end I can send you some pictures of my finished product so thank you for your video. Keep up the good work and take a little advice. Work hard. Do good quality like you do. Keep your integrity but don't do like I do. I'm 62 years old. I still work 7 days a week at this. That's the mistake I made
Thanks a lot for watching, subscribing and the feedback. The classic car world is small in the grand scheme of things so who knows one da we might be able to swap stories. Good luck on your build and the best advice I think you gave there is don't work every minute of your life. I dedicate so much of my life to these cars it feels like I blink and everything else passes by. I am trying to take a little time and enjoy the other things in life so thank you for that advice.
Some great work! First time I have seen your videos. I am just finishing my body work on a 70 Camaro. Ended up doing a new firewall, block off panel, Real Deal Steel tunnel, DSE mini tubs, quarters, tail panel and trunk drops. You have a great jig for your car. A must have for rear frame rails. I have a 70 Nova 402 standard bore 375HP block. Sure would get your car moving!! Take care and nice work, man!
@@carthageclassiccars The DSE stuff is pretty good, although their roll bar lower mounting bracket didn't fit very good, like they claimed. I really like the Real Deal tunnel piece for the T56 Magnum. Very well made and fit great.
Your videos are the best I have ever seen for explaining what and how to do this to people. Thank you thank you!!! I am doing a 72 nova now with most of what you are doing except the main floor and these videos are awesome. I really appreciate you posting and helping everyone!!
greetings from Walkertown ,NC. new sub here,just wanted to your doing a great job,my favorite body style nova for sure.keep up the good work....makes me wish I was young again
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I'm trying to absorb the information as I am about to do a 72 Nova that has some pretty bad rust in the back. Previous work was total slop. At 65 on the newbie when it comes to welding as I am a DIY amateur.
You are welcome. The hardest ones to work on are the cars that have been in bad wrecks and the ones that had major work done wrong. Hang in there take your time and good luck with your build.
@@carthageclassiccars I’ve not done this work for awhile, this has made me want to get back to it, have a 73 camaro that needs everything an I’ve got it all to fix it,going to get back on it, thanks
It's so cool you get the family involved with your work. I really like how your content focuses on the work to get the job done rather than any drama like all the big-name channels build in. I look forward to following along as your channel grows. Best of luck and success!
I done mine the that way but in section just now getting to the trunk pan. Then I’m going to the cowl section. Then here’s the down the road process ten years ago I put in 80 percent quarters then. Now I’m going to put in the full ones on. In my defense if you would have seen how bad it was and I’ve drove and worked on it over 25 years and it’s going into winter time to drill cut hammer and weld. To get ready for spring.
I enjoy your videos and craftsmanship, look forward to the next video. I do like that pro spot welder, I would like One but I'm thinking expensive. Keep the videos coming
Thank you! The spot welder is really up there in price compared to other welders, honestly I have been doing this for a while and only recently have even justified it myself to have around.
@carthageclassiccars you're welcome! I did autobody class in high school in the 80s. It's so cool how many panels are available now to fix these cars the right way!
Check out the previous video on this car it has been sitting on the frame JIG since I brought it in the shop so yea it has been supported from the start
Thank you very much! If you were looking to get some work done please send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and I can go over some pricing stuff and how we operate.
Thanks for putting this out there. It’s very helpful. My nova needs floor pan, trunk floor, and rear frame rails. It’s not really rusty but a previous owner attempted a mini tub. Pretty sure the only tool he owned was a sawsall. If you were going to do a job that needed frame rails, what would your approach be?
Thanks for watching, if you get a chance check out the 1969 firebird video with frame rails, it is almost identical to what you are doing. To get the full benefit watch the first few videos of that 69 Firebird series I feel it will answer all your questions. I also just added a video last week of a 70 Challenger I did frame rails that may also interest you.
Hey I have another question that may be kind of a dumb question but its an issue. Like you suggested I wanted to epoxy as much as I can in one shot but its going to take time to strip the car. In the meantime flash rusting is a huge issue where I live due to humidity. In the past on other vehicles I've stripped to bare metal (parts that werent rusted) and within days they flash rusted. What do you recommend in this case? You mentioning you've osphoed this whole car to prevent flash rusting because you can keep the car for weeks like that before priming (inside). Would this be something you would do on exterior body panels as well? Should I strip a section and then take the time to oshpo even if its not rusted but will remain bare for a week or 2? Also on the ospho video you applied it then took the time to grind it off on areas where you will be doing rosette welds. Is there any value to using ospho on areas you will eventually use weld through primer? Since you are going to remove it before welding anyways? not sure that makes sense
I spot prime the cars all the time. There is no disadvantage to applying the epoxy a little at a time except the hassle you would go through mixing and cleanup. Personally if there was a clean metal on a car I try not to introduce anything that might lead to adhesion issues down the road and ospho could create more issues here then actually helping.
I am going to be doing something very similar, also 68-72 Nova. I am going to attempt to save the frame rails you mentioned for really deep rust you used a etching primer? What product did you use for that? You mention it but I didnt really understand what you said it was difficult to figure out. Much thanks
I use epoxy primer to seal it up. To convert the rust I use Ospho. If you search my videos there is a 73 Challenger Ospho rust repair video where I go over in dept how to treat rusted areas like your frame rails and clean them up. Its not a Nova but the video should help you out.
@Carthage Classic Cars sounds great will do. Thanks for the series just started watching today will likely watch all your videos as I am studying before I dive into it. Will also be filming my entire process but not as a diy just more the journey. Thanks again
Where are you getting your sheet metal . I’m doing a 65 mustang and other than the floor pan there hasn’t been any other sheet metal that I haven’t had to cut or reshape slice edges or weld edges and spend hours welding and filing my gaps . I’m no beginner I’ve been in the collision industry for thirty years as a A Tech doing frame repair and structural replacement. Now that I’ve done a couple full restorations for myself I understand why restoration shop charge what they do .
I am getting most of my sheet metal from AMD and Dynacorn. I feel sticking to those brands things have been a bit easier. I realize AMD has no Mustang support so as of now its not trying them.
Thanks for the video series. Im going to be attempting a 73' Ventura (similar) how would yo go about replacing the rear (and maybe front)frame rails? (Rails, then new pans, or pans then new rails or....?)
Does the Ventura have a removable sub frame like this Nova. If that is the case easier to pull it and replace. For the frame rails look at the 1969 Firebird Video series specifically the 2nd and 3rd video in that series. I go over frame rail replacement and install new rails in that car. This will be almost the exact same process as it would be on a Nova or ventura. Good luck on your build.
Very nice work. We have been finding bare metal under spot welded brackets as well. Been removing them and recoating with epoxy primer. I see your using ppg Omni. Have you ever tried SPI?
Thanks and yes my opinion its better to take as much as you really can apart and fix all that bare metal out in the open when these cars were built. I have not tried SPI and would be open to it. The main reason I use PPG is I have a dealer really close to me and the support and product availability works out well with my daily operations.
I have a really nice one but don't use it because a lot of times you can end up hurting more with it then using the air hammer or cut off wheels only taking one layer off at a time.
Amazing that I stumbled on to this video and going to try and figure out how to locate your other ones that you have and I am. I did subscribe and I will continue watching. I am doing the exact same process at this very time. I'm doing a 70 Nova SS 396 car. The only additional is I'm doing from the firewall. Actually the cowl dash panel where the wiper motors Mount is how bad mine was rusted or my customer's car was rusted. So basically I'm doing from the back of the dash pad to the tail lights including inner and outer rockers And also rear frame rails. Oddly on my car with the tail light panel quarter panels, the wheel tubs are in great condition which is unusual. I've been doing antiquing classic Restoration for 45 years and I have the certain way I do things. Other people see as odd, but I don't want to compliment you on your style and your approach. It is identical to the way I do my stuff. You're a lot younger version of me, but we have the same technique and style. It's like you learned it the same School of hard knocks that I learned from my compliments out to you and also on your ability to keep an instructional video interesting. You have great skill at that also. I'd love to be able to trade war stories with you, but that probably won't happen that maybe in the end I can send you some pictures of my finished product so thank you for your video. Keep up the good work and take a little advice. Work hard. Do good quality like you do. Keep your integrity but don't do like I do. I'm 62 years old. I still work 7 days a week at this. That's the mistake I made
Thanks a lot for watching, subscribing and the feedback. The classic car world is small in the grand scheme of things so who knows one da we might be able to swap stories. Good luck on your build and the best advice I think you gave there is don't work every minute of your life. I dedicate so much of my life to these cars it feels like I blink and everything else passes by. I am trying to take a little time and enjoy the other things in life so thank you for that advice.
Some great work! First time I have seen your videos. I am just finishing my body work on a 70 Camaro. Ended up doing a new firewall, block off panel, Real Deal Steel tunnel, DSE mini tubs, quarters, tail panel and trunk drops. You have a great jig for your car. A must have for rear frame rails. I have a 70 Nova 402 standard bore 375HP block. Sure would get your car moving!! Take care and nice work, man!
Thanks a lot, yea the DSE stuff is really nice and a great upgrade I have installed them in my 69 firebird.
@@carthageclassiccars The DSE stuff is pretty good, although their roll bar lower mounting bracket didn't fit very good, like they claimed. I really like the Real Deal tunnel piece for the T56 Magnum. Very well made and fit great.
@@idaho2ndgens240 Good to know thanks for the info
Your videos are the best I have ever seen for explaining what and how to do this to people. Thank you thank you!!! I am doing a 72 nova now with most of what you are doing except the main floor and these videos are awesome. I really appreciate you posting and helping everyone!!
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Nice work.. Where are you located? I have a 72-floor pans that need to be replaced
Awesome job! Also you take the time to explain everything, thanks for sharing, you do great work!!👍👍
I really appreciate it!
greetings from Walkertown ,NC. new sub here,just wanted to your doing a great job,my favorite body style nova for sure.keep up the good work....makes me wish I was young again
Thanks a lot I appreciate you subscribing and following along!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I'm trying to absorb the information as I am about to do a 72 Nova that has some pretty bad rust in the back. Previous work was total slop. At 65 on the newbie when it comes to welding as I am a DIY amateur.
You are welcome. The hardest ones to work on are the cars that have been in bad wrecks and the ones that had major work done wrong. Hang in there take your time and good luck with your build.
Just found you here today and have a 72 to finish,I like your style cheers
Thanks a lot and good luck on you're 72 build. I plan on putting some more Nova content out in the future.
Just found your channel, when I started doing this kind of work, I always said if factory can do it I can do it, I love this kinda work😊
Thanks I appreciate you checking it out and I have the same mindset as you with if the factory can do it so can I.
@@carthageclassiccars I’ve not done this work for awhile, this has made me want to get back to it, have a 73 camaro that needs everything an I’ve got it all to fix it,going to get back on it, thanks
@@thruitallauto2538 Good luck with the car the second gen F bodies are really awesome cars!
A master Class as usual!!!
Thank you!
It's so cool you get the family involved with your work. I really like how your content focuses on the work to get the job done rather than any drama like all the big-name channels build in. I look forward to following along as your channel grows. Best of luck and success!
Thank you very much , It great to hear you say that as from the start that was the entire goal of the channel.
I done mine the that way but in section just now getting to the trunk pan. Then I’m going to the cowl section. Then here’s the down the road process ten years ago I put in 80 percent quarters then. Now I’m going to put in the full ones on. In my defense if you would have seen how bad it was and I’ve drove and worked on it over 25 years and it’s going into winter time to drill cut hammer and weld. To get ready for spring.
Sounds like a good project you have. Good luck on your build!
I enjoy your videos and craftsmanship, look forward to the next video. I do like that pro spot welder, I would like One but I'm thinking expensive. Keep the videos coming
Thank you! The spot welder is really up there in price compared to other welders, honestly I have been doing this for a while and only recently have even justified it myself to have around.
I enjoyed this video, very informative.
I am glad to hear that and thank you!
Good job and your wife's a keeper helping you out. I know she's not the only wife that helps you just don't see that many.
thanks and yes i am lucky to have her in my life
Another great video.
thanks for posting!
I appreciate it!
Amazing work!
Thank you!
@carthageclassiccars you're welcome! I did autobody class in high school in the 80s. It's so cool how many panels are available now to fix these cars the right way!
@@barberjeff67Yes 100% agree we are very lucky to be able to build them with these parts in todays age.
Did you have the car braced with internal welded in braces before removing the floor pan?
Check out the previous video on this car it has been sitting on the frame JIG since I brought it in the shop so yea it has been supported from the start
So what did a job like this cost? you have talent! young man
Thank you very much! If you were looking to get some work done please send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and I can go over some pricing stuff and how we operate.
Thanks for putting this out there. It’s very helpful. My nova needs floor pan, trunk floor, and rear frame rails. It’s not really rusty but a previous owner attempted a mini tub. Pretty sure the only tool he owned was a sawsall.
If you were going to do a job that needed frame rails, what would your approach be?
Thanks for watching, if you get a chance check out the 1969 firebird video with frame rails, it is almost identical to what you are doing. To get the full benefit watch the first few videos of that 69 Firebird series I feel it will answer all your questions. I also just added a video last week of a 70 Challenger I did frame rails that may also interest you.
@@carthageclassiccars I’ll check them out! Thanks!
Hey I have another question that may be kind of a dumb question but its an issue. Like you suggested I wanted to epoxy as much as I can in one shot but its going to take time to strip the car. In the meantime flash rusting is a huge issue where I live due to humidity. In the past on other vehicles I've stripped to bare metal (parts that werent rusted) and within days they flash rusted. What do you recommend in this case? You mentioning you've osphoed this whole car to prevent flash rusting because you can keep the car for weeks like that before priming (inside). Would this be something you would do on exterior body panels as well? Should I strip a section and then take the time to oshpo even if its not rusted but will remain bare for a week or 2? Also on the ospho video you applied it then took the time to grind it off on areas where you will be doing rosette welds. Is there any value to using ospho on areas you will eventually use weld through primer? Since you are going to remove it before welding anyways? not sure that makes sense
I spot prime the cars all the time. There is no disadvantage to applying the epoxy a little at a time except the hassle you would go through mixing and cleanup. Personally if there was a clean metal on a car I try not to introduce anything that might lead to adhesion issues down the road and ospho could create more issues here then actually helping.
I am going to be doing something very similar, also 68-72 Nova. I am going to attempt to save the frame rails you mentioned for really deep rust you used a etching primer? What product did you use for that? You mention it but I didnt really understand what you said it was difficult to figure out. Much thanks
I use epoxy primer to seal it up. To convert the rust I use Ospho. If you search my videos there is a 73 Challenger Ospho rust repair video where I go over in dept how to treat rusted areas like your frame rails and clean them up. Its not a Nova but the video should help you out.
@Carthage Classic Cars sounds great will do. Thanks for the series just started watching today will likely watch all your videos as I am studying before I dive into it. Will also be filming my entire process but not as a diy just more the journey. Thanks again
Where are you getting your sheet metal . I’m doing a 65 mustang and other than the floor pan there hasn’t been any other sheet metal that I haven’t had to cut or reshape slice edges or weld edges and spend hours welding and filing my gaps . I’m no beginner I’ve been in the collision industry for thirty years as a A Tech doing frame repair and structural replacement. Now that I’ve done a couple full restorations for myself I understand why restoration shop charge what they do .
I am getting most of my sheet metal from AMD and Dynacorn. I feel sticking to those brands things have been a bit easier. I realize AMD has no Mustang support so as of now its not trying them.
Thanks for the video series. Im going to be attempting a 73' Ventura (similar) how would yo go about replacing the rear (and maybe front)frame rails? (Rails, then new pans, or pans then new rails or....?)
Does the Ventura have a removable sub frame like this Nova. If that is the case easier to pull it and replace. For the frame rails look at the 1969 Firebird Video series specifically the 2nd and 3rd video in that series. I go over frame rail replacement and install new rails in that car. This will be almost the exact same process as it would be on a Nova or ventura. Good luck on your build.
Very nice work. We have been finding bare metal under spot welded brackets as well. Been removing them and recoating with epoxy primer. I see your using ppg Omni. Have you ever tried SPI?
Thanks and yes my opinion its better to take as much as you really can apart and fix all that bare metal out in the open when these cars were built. I have not tried SPI and would be open to it. The main reason I use PPG is I have a dealer really close to me and the support and product availability works out well with my daily operations.
Hello i seen your video. I have a 68 nova. Its the exact same as this 70. I was womdering what a job like this cost? I need to have mine done.
Feel free to send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss privately, thanks.
Where are you located, I would love for you to do my restoration and panel replacements?
I am located in Carthage, North Carolina.
@@carthageclassiccars 1972 Nova needs trunk drops, trunk pan, tail panel and trunk braces; what are we looking at price wise?
@@joepavlosky2283 Send me an email please to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss further, thank you
Need plasma cutter !
I have a really nice one but don't use it because a lot of times you can end up hurting more with it then using the air hammer or cut off wheels only taking one layer off at a time.
Are you looking for more work?
Feel free to email me at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss further what you have, thanks.