I was thinkin the same thing.. I see too many “restored” cars tho with all sorts of screwed up looking panel gaps where the trunk or hood meet. Or a hood that’s slightly raised on one side and doesn’t lie flat. That’s just lazy.. however it seems that’s the least of a buyers worry these days. The stuff my families body shop has seen from people buying classic cars from auction are very expensive nightmares. They look so great when you first get a gander.. you get under it and we’ve seen sections of frame rail made out of bondo.. bondo door panels that are shaped even yet have zero metal anywhere. The worst was when someone used a dent puller tack AS A WELD. Yep..
Expert level. Not only the craftsmanship, but the ability to teach it and translate via video. Not an easy task. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent instruction! I just found your channel. Im building a 67 Fairlane 2-door hardtop and had to replace a full quarter. i have never done this before. Im spending all my time at the front of the quarter, by the factory door. The body lines of the quarter panel at the front are just a bit off. This video will help me out tremendously. Thank you
Thats really great to hear. Thanks a lot! If you want some extra tips I have a newer video on a 73 challenger where I show some other tips and tricks that might help you.
Sir, your videos, or should I say tutorials are a top notch, no nonsense guide to bodywork they are an invaluable resource.... your tips and tricks / techniques are some of the best I've seen on RUclips or anywhere else for that fact... just watching your instruction has helped me on my own projects immensely. While I have a good foundation for metal work and fabrication.... I personally think that your instruction is next level especially for those of us who want to do the very best work we can possibly do.... I just want to thank you for your time and expertise in putting together these videos.... I can't iterate it enough how much you've helped me.... Thanks again.... BTW I subscribed to your channel after watching just one of your videos.... Great job !!!
At some point I imagined doing something similar on my 1972 Fiat 500 to improve the gap between panels a little, but I considered that it would be very radical or daring to do it, now that I see you working so confidently you inspire me to finally try it. This video is enough to subscribe to your channel. Greetings from Ensenada, Baja, Mexico
Really well done! You really aim to do everything you can to minimize body filler. I have a 70 Cuda and the front of the trunk is so high above the dutchman paner, or panel behind rear glass. Funny thing is that the sides and rear seam to fit nicely. Anyway, you really inspire me to get to work on it! Thank you
Thanks a lot and yes less filler is the goal. Good luck on your Cuda a little cutting and welding and it will save you lots of headaches down the road.
Rick, another great tutorial, thanks! So, I have a question and forgive me if I'm missed it among your other videos. Much time is spent gapping and profiling the panels and then you pull them sometimes to paint. I'm talking, doors, trunk, fenders, etc. After paint, how do you quickly and accurately align those panels without chipping paint? Do you have some kind of process for that? If you've not done a video on this, I'd sure like to see one from you. Thanks!
So sometimes I will drill a 1/8 hole and align the panels back up and that hole would be covered by a bolt or sometimes I just realign. It honestly depends how hard the panels are to get where they go. I also make sure any shims are labeled as I am removing them so its easier to align. Saying that I am working on the second part of the body work video on this car. Its been on the friends and family plan so taking a while but I will try and cover my process in that video how I go about finishing it to try and show you how I paint them to avoid damage as much as possible.
Buying less than quality panels because there is no other choice these days equates to a lot more work . This work is perfect.. it’s down to the mm on those doors!
The goal is to try and spray epoxy on the back sides where they are accessible, in reality that might not always be the case, but we do the best we can.
That is a great question, unfortunately if the spray and pray doesn't get it that will be an area without primer on it. I know its not the ideal case, however if you see most of these cars had large portions of bare metal from the factory a small spot here and there is still better then they were. If you also think about it anyplace you weld even with the weld through primer will burn it off a bit. We can't make it 100% covered but we do the best we can so they live on for the next 50 years even better! Good thing about that is all the time if paint can't get to it water should not also be able to touch it slowing down any corrosion.
Thank you very much! I have been messing and around hot rods my whole life so mostly trial and error. I have spent many years racing and building race cars so most of my fabrication has been learned doing that consistently. I started restoring more of flip cars in my early 20's as a hobby along with my own stuff, then worked on friends/family cars and the hobby over the years has turned into the business it is now. I am always trying to build on my skillset and be better with each project so self motivation has some to do with how I work. Thanks for checking out my videos also.
Thank you for the awesome videos. As everyone else has said, this is excellent work and your passion is inspiring. I have been in the process of restoring 70 Cuda myself and in need of panel gap help. Is it possible i could email you some pictures? Thanks again!! Alex Franklin
it sounds like the seal is cracked or damaged or there is a rust hole in the drip rails. Look closely and find the hole and seal it up. There are many ways to do that job depending on what you find. Good luck.
Thank you and yes for the most part I use some version of this process depending what the owner is looking for. Some are more then happy with how the car started it as especially with a driver. I am always trying to think of new ways to make the process better. I have also used lead before to add to gaps to close them up also on jambs.
Sweet .... curious if this a match build or clone ish?? I have 71 383 Mag. H.P. Match's Barracuda Gran Coupe most optioned E-Body made 1 of 32 believe. Possible 1of 19 told!!!
This one will be a tribute in the loose sense of the word. It was a base model Barracuda. Your 71 sounds like a really awesome optioned car, take care of it.
the attention to detail is awsome great workmanship. Would you possibly consider filling the gap between roof and quarter panels with weld rather than lead ?
thank you and personally I would not weld up that entire gap. Lead melts in a lot lower with the heat then you would ever have to get to weld mild steel. So the heat it would take I feel to add that kind mild steel tig rod in a gap that large would have a great chance of warping the panels. If you had your heart set on that i would put a patch over the two edges covering the middle gap and weld that up, but to me that also doesn't have any advantage. Also the amount of time on the welding machine would be a lot, just in general I don't think practical. Lead has proven to last decades upon decades so I think that is a good option also I would also consider using kitty hair or a alunimunized filler material like All Metal.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks your thoughts, I agree lead has been used for years successfully, I wondered if it was used by manufacturers as was much simpler and quicker to apply in factory conditions than 'cut and butt'. Great work by you, will look forward to future videos.
I love the work you put into the car. But there is still something wrong with it.... With the clearances worked into it, you keep it well outside factory standards. All parts within the same time-zone..! Something's wrong here....😂🤣
Thanks a lot. I would say this is not the standard, but hang in there if you want it this way all it takes is time and effort. If not just build and enjoy it how you want too.
I do TIG braze on these cars every now and then. I actually have done in on some of my videos to show where i use it. Mostly in seam areas or filling gaps. Personally I like traditional weld fusing the panels together if I cut the door, put a slice in a panel to relief it back and even building up an edge a fused weld is far superior in strength. Thats why you really should be butting panels and brazing them to hold then together. That is not saying brazing wouldn't work as you described more of a personal preference. The only benefit I see to brazing is less heat input and easier to sand down. The downsides I see is where i weld on the edges I don't have to worry about the heat and the cost factor of brazing rod is just so high compared to its mild steel counterpart. To me there is no enough benefit to justify it.
As a mopar guy.. I can say these gaps are way to good. lol Nice workmanship.
Thank you very much!
I was thinkin the same thing.. I see too many “restored” cars tho with all sorts of screwed up looking panel gaps where the trunk or hood meet. Or a hood that’s slightly raised on one side and doesn’t lie flat. That’s just lazy.. however it seems that’s the least of a buyers worry these days. The stuff my families body shop has seen from people buying classic cars from auction are very expensive nightmares. They look so great when you first get a gander.. you get under it and we’ve seen sections of frame rail made out of bondo.. bondo door panels that are shaped even yet have zero metal anywhere. The worst was when someone used a dent puller tack AS A WELD. Yep..
Expert level. Not only the craftsmanship, but the ability to teach it and translate via video. Not an easy task. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
You are welcome thank you for watching and the kind words.
Your a metal magician!
Thank you very much!
Man, you brought the old girl back from the dead
Thanks, it is such a great feeling thinking where most started and getting to this point. Thanks for watching!
Glad I found your channel. You not only have a talent for restoration. You are an excellent teacher. Thanks.
Thank you very much I appreciate you following along.
Great job. Learned a lot! This will come in handy when I set the gaps on my 74 Challenger.
Thanks a lot, check back in about a week I am working a hopefully a better updated video right now on gapping e body cars.
You’re great at what you do.I’m doing a1970 cuda with all your tips I’m very impressed!
Thats great to hear the videos might help out good luck on your 70 build. I also am in the process of doing a 70 Cuda currently.
Excellent instruction! I just found your channel. Im building a 67 Fairlane 2-door hardtop and had to replace a full quarter. i have never done this before. Im spending all my time at the front of the quarter, by the factory door. The body lines of the quarter panel at the front are just a bit off. This video will help me out tremendously. Thank you
Thats really great to hear. Thanks a lot! If you want some extra tips I have a newer video on a 73 challenger where I show some other tips and tricks that might help you.
Great video and perfect timing. I’m setting gaps on my 65 Plymouth satellite, your tips and tricks are very helpful thanks
Thank you and good luck on your project really glad it was helpful
Awesomeness! A Craftsman at work.
Thanks a lot
I've been sat binge watching this build series, great content. 😎
I appreciate you following along thank you!
Attention to detail is amazing, some great tips here
Thank you
Great video. I have seen things on this video that I have not seen on others. I learned some new tricks from this. Thanks :)
You're welcome thanks for the feedback!
Great Video. .. Working on Chevelle panel gaps
Thank you and good luck with your Chevelle
Great tips and technique from a real Craftsman
Thank you very much I am glad you enjoyed it
Sir, your videos, or should I say tutorials are a top notch, no nonsense guide to bodywork they are an invaluable resource.... your tips and tricks / techniques are some of the best I've seen on RUclips or anywhere else for that fact... just watching your instruction has helped me on my own projects immensely. While I have a good foundation for metal work and fabrication.... I personally think that your instruction is next level especially for those of us who want to do the very best work we can possibly do.... I just want to thank you for your time and expertise in putting together these videos.... I can't iterate it enough how much you've helped me.... Thanks again.... BTW I subscribed to your channel after watching just one of your videos.... Great job !!!
Thank you very much for the kind words and subscribing it really means a lot again thank you!
Perfect attention to detail many thanks for the info
You are welcome and thank you!
Rick you’re doing an awesome job on the challenge at 69 challenger I like the way you work
thanks
At some point I imagined doing something similar on my 1972 Fiat 500 to improve the gap between panels a little, but I considered that it would be very radical or daring to do it, now that I see you working so confidently you inspire me to finally try it. This video is enough to subscribe to your channel. Greetings from Ensenada, Baja, Mexico
Greetings, thank you for subscribing and watching glad it helped.
Best video I've seen on this..good job
Thank you
Your job is amazing, thanks for sharing 💪
Thanks a lot appreciate you checking it out.
Really well done! You really aim to do everything you can to minimize body filler. I have a 70 Cuda and the front of the trunk is so high above the dutchman paner, or panel behind rear glass. Funny thing is that the sides and rear seam to fit nicely. Anyway, you really inspire me to get to work on it! Thank you
Thanks a lot and yes less filler is the goal. Good luck on your Cuda a little cutting and welding and it will save you lots of headaches down the road.
Like I said b4 you are great at what you do
I really appreciate it!
Excellent.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Learned a lot!
Thank you and glad to hear!
Great video amazing work
Thank you very much!
Masterful work.
Thank you
Awsome work man 👍🏻🍺🍺
Thank you very much
Nice work !
Thank you
I am amazed as usual :o) it is going to be a stunner.
Thank you
Rick, another great tutorial, thanks! So, I have a question and forgive me if I'm missed it among your other videos. Much time is spent gapping and profiling the panels and then you pull them sometimes to paint. I'm talking, doors, trunk, fenders, etc. After paint, how do you quickly and accurately align those panels without chipping paint? Do you have some kind of process for that? If you've not done a video on this, I'd sure like to see one from you. Thanks!
So sometimes I will drill a 1/8 hole and align the panels back up and that hole would be covered by a bolt or sometimes I just realign. It honestly depends how hard the panels are to get where they go. I also make sure any shims are labeled as I am removing them so its easier to align. Saying that I am working on the second part of the body work video on this car. Its been on the friends and family plan so taking a while but I will try and cover my process in that video how I go about finishing it to try and show you how I paint them to avoid damage as much as possible.
Thanks, Rick!
Buying less than quality panels because there is no other choice these days equates to a lot more work . This work is perfect.. it’s down to the mm on those doors!
You are 100% right and thank you very much for the kid words and watching!
Can you tell me if the 70 nova you did had 1 trunk lid torque bar or 2. Thank you.
If I remember right that 70 Nova had two where this Barracuda in 71 had 1. I have a 68 Nova in the shop now with 2.
You are an amazing craftsman!! I've watched hours upon hours of your work. Where are you located?
Thank you for watching and Carthage North Carolina
Do you seal the weld underneath with anything? Thanks...
The goal is to try and spray epoxy on the back sides where they are accessible, in reality that might not always be the case, but we do the best we can.
Nice work! When slicing the panels how to you treat the backside of them?
That is a great question, unfortunately if the spray and pray doesn't get it that will be an area without primer on it. I know its not the ideal case, however if you see most of these cars had large portions of bare metal from the factory a small spot here and there is still better then they were. If you also think about it anyplace you weld even with the weld through primer will burn it off a bit. We can't make it 100% covered but we do the best we can so they live on for the next 50 years even better! Good thing about that is all the time if paint can't get to it water should not also be able to touch it slowing down any corrosion.
Great video. Did you buy the spacers or make them
Thank you and I bought them off amazon just universal body shims
where did you learn all this at. you have impressed me big time and have learned a lot. thanks. Is this your living or just a hobby?
Thank you very much! I have been messing and around hot rods my whole life so mostly trial and error. I have spent many years racing and building race cars so most of my fabrication has been learned doing that consistently. I started restoring more of flip cars in my early 20's as a hobby along with my own stuff, then worked on friends/family cars and the hobby over the years has turned into the business it is now. I am always trying to build on my skillset and be better with each project so self motivation has some to do with how I work. Thanks for checking out my videos also.
Thank you for the awesome videos. As everyone else has said, this is excellent work and your passion is inspiring.
I have been in the process of restoring 70 Cuda myself and in need of panel gap help. Is it possible i could email you some pictures? Thanks again!!
Alex Franklin
You welcome and send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com Ill see if I can help you out.
What do you do if you open the trunk and rain water gets inside
it sounds like the seal is cracked or damaged or there is a rust hole in the drip rails. Look closely and find the hole and seal it up. There are many ways to do that job depending on what you find. Good luck.
Thank you
Looks really good. Do you use this same process on other vehicles that require perfect gaps?
Thank you and yes for the most part I use some version of this process depending what the owner is looking for. Some are more then happy with how the car started it as especially with a driver. I am always trying to think of new ways to make the process better. I have also used lead before to add to gaps to close them up also on jambs.
Sweet .... curious if this a match build or clone ish?? I have 71 383 Mag. H.P. Match's Barracuda Gran Coupe most optioned E-Body made 1 of 32 believe. Possible 1of 19 told!!!
This one will be a tribute in the loose sense of the word. It was a base model Barracuda. Your 71 sounds like a really awesome optioned car, take care of it.
Yeah I noticed figured it was! All 👍. Do ya already have drivetrain fit the plan?
Yes I have all the drivetrain parts ready for the most part for assembly already
👍🏼
thanks
the attention to detail is awsome great workmanship. Would you possibly consider filling the gap between roof and quarter panels with weld rather than lead ?
thank you and personally I would not weld up that entire gap. Lead melts in a lot lower with the heat then you would ever have to get to weld mild steel. So the heat it would take I feel to add that kind mild steel tig rod in a gap that large would have a great chance of warping the panels. If you had your heart set on that i would put a patch over the two edges covering the middle gap and weld that up, but to me that also doesn't have any advantage. Also the amount of time on the welding machine would be a lot, just in general I don't think practical. Lead has proven to last decades upon decades so I think that is a good option also I would also consider using kitty hair or a alunimunized filler material like All Metal.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks your thoughts, I agree lead has been used for years successfully, I wondered if it was used by manufacturers as was much simpler and quicker to apply in factory conditions than 'cut and butt'. Great work by you, will look forward to future videos.
I think your right, the cheapest and easiest way to fill any slight fitment differences between how each car fit up between the roof and quarters.
@@carthageclassiccars 👍
I love the work you put into the car. But there is still something wrong with it....
With the clearances worked into it, you keep it well outside factory standards.
All parts within the same time-zone..! Something's wrong here....😂🤣
Haha Yes you are correct I will take that as a huge compliment, thanks a lot for watching and the feedback.
use a 2x4 under door to pound on , rocker
That's a great trick thanks I will do that next time
First :)
Dear Lord , my car is going to look like crap compared to your work.
Thanks a lot. I would say this is not the standard, but hang in there if you want it this way all it takes is time and effort. If not just build and enjoy it how you want too.
Put the phone and the address
Carthage North Carolina 910-722-9552
Why not use brazing to add material for your gaps? It's easy to add and shape.
I do TIG braze on these cars every now and then. I actually have done in on some of my videos to show where i use it. Mostly in seam areas or filling gaps. Personally I like traditional weld fusing the panels together if I cut the door, put a slice in a panel to relief it back and even building up an edge a fused weld is far superior in strength. Thats why you really should be butting panels and brazing them to hold then together. That is not saying brazing wouldn't work as you described more of a personal preference. The only benefit I see to brazing is less heat input and easier to sand down. The downsides I see is where i weld on the edges I don't have to worry about the heat and the cost factor of brazing rod is just so high compared to its mild steel counterpart. To me there is no enough benefit to justify it.
@@carthageclassiccars thank you for your knowledge.
you are welcome thanks for watching!