Arduino leadscrew: stable version, new features, bug fixes, future plans
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Replacing gears with a stepper motor on my WM210V mini lathe. Electronic lead screw project using Arduino Nano, second video in the series.
Code and other info: github.com/kac...
Please join me on t.me/MaximKach... for more DIY fun 🥳
You can now order this controller as a kit on kachurovskiy.com 😀
You are a very talented person. I am a tool and die machinist and finally retired after 35 years. I have always had a lathe and virtical mill.
I want to install your creation on my lathe. You are a genius!!!
William, thanks for the kind words, hope NanoEls won't disappoint you :)
This is great! Thank you for making this available to all of us
A brilliant finished project. It is a very good first step towards adding a second stepper motor on the cross bed. Thank you for sharing.
How cool is that! Absolutely amazing, I'm impressed. Thanks for sharing!
Fantastic work! I unfortunately already ordered my version 1 of the PCB but oh well. looking forward to seeing more of these videos!
Ryan, thank you! You should have no problems with the previous PCB version. It's just as easy to add pull-ups to it if you decide you want them.
Maksym Kachurowski 😀 you have a subscription from me.👍 great project.
I'm looking on youtube for information on how to make an electronic lead screw, but for me arduino and programming are black magic. Greetings from Poland
i am absolut impressed, fantastic work.
Absolutely amazing. I’m in process of making my own ELS for mini lathe as well
I've got a WM210 lathe on order here, and here I was just thinking that something like this might be possible. Not only is it, you've already done it! :D Thanks for sharing your design! I will definitely be doing this mod when I get my lathe.
Also, I realised seeing your solution I was overcomplicating myself on how to attach the encoder to the spindle. You replaced the first change gear itself, which makes total sense, when the elec leadscrew is exactly meant to _replace_ that gear train.
Oh also, great tip on the encoder pull ups! I have had this problem of unreliable encoder direction reads in other builds... I suspected it was my code... never thought it could have been the pullups.
Hi Felipe, happy to help! Yes, those pull-ups are hell to debug.
Ух какой неистребимый акцент, даже для слуха человека живущего в России.
п/с
Весьма компактная компоновка потрахов электронной гитары. Пять баллов за работу!
Really excellent! I bet there is not one piece of rod in your shop that has not been threaded! :o)
That must be very satisfying. Liked & Subscribed.
Ahaha, thank you, John 😀
I don't really need a lathe but now I want one!
This really needs to be turned into a product you can buy! Messing with the gear train is my biggest gripe with this late. Having this upgrade really makes me question weather there is any real need to get a big lathe because that would not add any convenience for changing feeds. I think the WM210v is the best mini lathe out there and I see alot of potential with it. Mabye by contacting a manufacturer of the motors could be of use when looking for someone to produce this upgrade.
Kaj, I don't have the capacity to productionize this project, there are superior commercial solutions at a fair price already available though, check out Rocketronics
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks.
Great video, I suspect your thrading issue would be resolved by advancing the compound slide set at 30 degrees to deepen the thread cut while keeping synchronization. I can see this would be a problem with just the cross slide motorized. Keep up the good work!
It can be done without the cross slide. Just advance the starting point by 0.028 mm by every 0.1 mm in diameter that the cutter goes deeper. This make a bit less than 30 degrees, and let the cutter just work with the front cutting edge. This is possible to put in the code if the arduino can do additional calculations.
все компактно подогнано, мало выпирающих деталей , отличная работа, скорей всего тоже по этому варианту буду делать
Awsome work Master
Very nice project! I love the automatic threading. 👍
Next thing is automatic chamfers and tapers? 👍👍👍👍
With your arduino, you could change the PCB to have the arduino on the back, so you can use pin headers to make it removable. Buttons and display on the front.
Thank you. You're right, that's what I did in all my Arduino Mega PCBs since. But for Nano you'd need 15-pin headers which are harder to find.
Excellent videos and excellent work Maxim, you are very talented and kind to share your experience and knowledge!
Very cool!
That is incredible fantastic job Maximum
Thank you, Eric.
Nice work ,I like the computer
This can allow you to cut compression screws used for plastic extrusion. I am not talking about cheap wood drills that most, and i mean nearly every filament extruder uses, but a real compression screw.
This looks really good. There is a Russian program that is exactly like this. It has tapers, imperial threads, and ball turning built in. I look forward to see where you go with this.
i realy like this - i think it's going to be a winter-job this year
this is great. I like it. thank you for sharing.
Great work Maxim thanks!
Thank you!
Looks interesting, going to watch later after work.
Cool project and thanks for sharing. I will try to adapt this on my WM 250 lathe. The gearbox must be removed I think.
I like your wrench.
That is some great work. You've done excellent job friend. I like it. How about unimat DB 200. Lol.
Have you tried to make a spiral on the face of the turning object? You could theoreticaly make a replacement scroll plate for a self centering chuck.
Matej, no, I didn't try that. It would take a special mode on a 2-axis ELS which I don't think is available on any ELS I know - but likely entirely feasible on a CNC lathe. Cheers!
Wow. Well done. Smart system 😜
Very Cool! Thank you for sharing!
Best Arduino lathe video, How can make cutting in the Arduino without threading 😊😊
Just use a small pitch such as 0.10mm? 🤔
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks for replying 👍 👍
But I am a beginner in Arduino coding 😭😭
I have be searching to for how to make a lathe machine in Arduino with a bigger lcd that can show and set the speed and rpm of the machine so that it could be eary to learn and I saw your video that was that was exactly what was I searching thanks for the video
The only problem is I want to add an lcd display instead of an OLED because OLED is very small to show the rpm and speed of the motor 😭
I have been learn about how to code stepper motors 😅😅
Can please help me how to add an lcd display instead of OLED
But I saw another video o RUclips. And I checked one video that I also the exact machine I was searching but unfortunately he did not gave the code 😭😭. Please check the video
ruclips.net/video/D_aGsBCorww/видео.html
Thanks for helping 👍👍👍👍😇
Thank for making this video! Nice video, Mr Maxim! I bought 1 of this lathe model VM210V also. But seems like the extra gear provided by the manufacturer to perform(cut) the metric screw thread operation on the lathe were not accurate on the pitch(I mean the gear ratio). Possible for you to share your English technical manual?(probably a link to download). Mine technical manual was given in Mandarin version, so have a hard time reading it. Thanks & appreciate in advance! Rdgs Stan😊
I have removed the entire leadscrew and installed a ballscrew, I hope I can also add an encoder later to the spindle.
Nice work, downloaded the files and look @ the codes , I impressed, if I get some free time, I would do this to my mini lathe , thanks for shear
Супер! Классно все упаковал и пульт отлично смотрится ! Лайк!
Перемудрил я тут короче. Надо было электронику (драйвера, блоки питания) в отдельный шкафчик убирать и не морочить голову. Пока менял драйвер, случайно задел и закоротил счетчиком оборотов о корпус станка и плата управления сдохла :(
@@MaximKachurovskiy бывает и такое , то же сталкивался с этим.
I would buy this.
Excellent work.
Hi Maxim, I ordered the PCBs and I am in the process of installing and testing your ELS. Thanks again for your generosity. As I was thinking of adding a second stepper motor on the Z axis, It came to me that Linuxcnc also can control the lathe and turn into a full CNC. The disadvantage will be having a computer by the side of the lathe but once you add the stepper motor drivers and a power supply to it there is really just a LPT breakout board needed to connect it to a PC. What do you think? Thanks, Hossein
Hi Hossein, thank you. Yes, once you have axes motorized, CNC is one of the options. It takes much more setup to make a part on a CNC though - making a program, zeroing tools, etc. For 2-axis manual controller see MegaEls.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks Maxim. Have a good one.
I have started to learn Arduino to put a led screw on my old lathe tat as no led screw came i dawn lowd your programming or sketch work . to give me guidance & were can i find it ,
I have just discovered your channel. I have a MV-210 lathe also. I am working on installing an ELS to my lathe and your videos are very useful. I am also very interested in your power crossfeed installation. I do not have any understanding on the electronics part of your process, but have an appreciation for all the work you have put into designing all of this. Do you have a place on your website with advice for components that work with the controller you have designed? I do not know enough about these parts to know what to purchase.
Cheers from Canada
Hi @bhein67, there's some info on github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/blob/main/hardware.md but basically you need NEMA 23 for the lead screw and NEMA 17 for the cross-slide. It's common to buy each motor+driver as a pair. Cross-slide model is on www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714722 - cheers!
Максим, Спасибо за идеи. Двух стороння клейкая лента, на которую посажен кнонштейн энкодера - держатся надеёжно? Есть ли модели в формате F360?
Привет! Пожалуйста. Пока держится без нареканий. Важно 1) хороший двухсторонний скотч (не толстый) 2) чистые ровные поверхности 3) отсутствие давления на энкодер кроме собственного веса (небольшой люфт между шестеренками). Ремень вряд ли получится использовать. Модели добавил в github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/tree/main/h1/encoder
@@MaximKachurovskiy Спасибо!
Bravo....
Фантастика!
Спасибо за ваш проект, повторил его для своего Корвета-407. Все получилось, правда поставил шаговый nema-34, да и с драйверами были некоторые заморочки. Сейчас работает DM556T китайского бренда "stepperonline" , до него были DM542 и DM556 нонейм. но они тянули только на низких оборотах. Подскажите пожалуйста пределы ругулировки параметров PULS-MIN-US, PULS-MAX-US and PULS-DELTA_US7 и на что они влияют.
Спасибо! Min и max определяют максимальную и минимальную скорость мотора. Дельта регулирует ускорение.
Если ускорение будет мало , то на что это повлияет, может ли возникнуть рассинхронизация основного и шагового двигателя?@@MaximKachurovskiy
@@user-sergey12570nsi рассинхронизация двигателей возникает если включать ELS при работающем шпинделе. В остальных ситуациях этого будет сложно добиться мне кажется.
BEST ELS -Project on YT ! Are you planning to change it to closed loop steppers or use a bigger luxury display, i am very interested!
Hi Stahlwurm, both of those features are already supported, see GitHub link. Thanks!
@@MaximKachurovskiy THATS OUTSTANDING !!! I will build your device for my Lathe, Spassiba Bolschoi
Congratulations! Now, the next step would be to download a complete machining program to have a full autonomous operation of the lathe.
I'm looking for the same Chinese lathe but I've seen a lot of people being obliged to completely dismount the machine to clean, control and adjust it, even replacing some hardware like ball-bearings. Did you encounter such problems, and if not, where did you buy it and at what price please? I am a retired software engineer and I can't wait to have fun with the computerized control of this lathe :-)
Hi Denis, please check one of my other video on the channel for the lathe overview and purchase link. When I'll be retiring I'd buy a better and heavier machine though :) There's a great variety if Chinese lathes in this form factor and they can differ in build quality quite a lot.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Unfortunatelly, better and heavier machine would'nt fit in my garage with already a lot of tools and 4 motorbikes... I just had a look on the link of your seller, and he's asking for an uncredible 1725€ for shipping! I've found French sellers at around 1250€ including delivery (with brushless motor). At that price, they even don't open the Chinese box to see what's inside. So I will have to spend like you a lot of time cleaning and adjusting. I've downloaded your GitHub project. I'll probably port it on ESP32, a platform I'm familiar with and I appreciate as it is dual core and with a real-time OS (FreeRTOS). Take care
@@denislafourcade8244 yes, there's something crazy going on with shipping prices there every once in a while. Other good options are Numobams products m.aliexpress.com/wholesale/Numobams.html and Optimum.
Hello Maxim, I'm about to order my lathe, but unfortunatelly I didn't found one like yours with a 38mm bore hole, instead it is 21mm, so the main gear has only 40 teeth. That means I have to redesign the main encoder gear... The spindle is only 100mm in diameter instead of 125. I also found your gear calculator, and realized that the table in the official manual I found is totally wrong! For exemple, for a 1mm pitch and a 2mm lead screw pitch, with a 40T main gear, they show A-B 70-66 C-D _ 50 and E 80. For me that leads to : 40/70x66/50x50/80 = 0.94, not 1. Your calculator is correct. I suppose that the number of combinations is also limited by he gears diameters which must fit together on the slide bar. Is the cross-slide version (with motor) still in progress or do you consider it as operational?
@@denislafourcade8244 I would strongly advise against 21mm/100mm versions as they are a major step down in all aspects. Better than having no lathe at all I guess though. I'm working on translating and making a PCB for Digital Feed project from ChipMaker which has support for both axes.
This is fantastic!
I already have DROs on my mini lathe. I'm guessing that this setup you have counts the revolutions of the headstock and matches the speed to the revolution of the stepper/leadscrew. Will there be any need for the DRO scales if this system is installed? Would that be semi redundant, or is there still a use for them?
Also, is there a reason for such a small display? Was this to save on cost?
Michael, yes, this ELS monitors the head position and moves the stepper to match. Position indication doesn't account for the carriage backlash and for missed steps (should there be any). DRO is still nice to have, especially for the cross-slide, however this ELS function makes it much easier to work for the folks that didn't have the DRO in the first place. I used a small display because I had it on hand. Larger I2C displays can also be used, see github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/#big-display
@@MaximKachurovskiy hope you don't mind. I posted one of your vids in one of my Mini lathe FB groups. Hope that drove some traffic your way. I look forward to seeing more videos from you.
great project! i will make my own soon! but can you told us if its possible to change the feed/pitch for moving (0.1mm,1mm,2mm) by a potentiometer instead of 3 knobs? and second maybe a little bigger screen with more lines for adding informations like menue titles? :) best regards
Andreas, thank you. I initially tried using a rotary encoder for pitch selection but it was too noisy for some reason (I probably didn't pull it up well). I don't think a potentiometer would work since Arduino Nano ADC outputs 0-1023 and we need 2*10*100=2000 values to adjust from -10 to 10 with 0.01mm accuracy.
For bigger display, it seems like I2C LCD would work though I didn't test - www.aliexpress.com/item/4001135515638.html - might need to switch to a different display library and adjust the updateDisplay() method.
Hi, great ideas, I am in the process of installing motors on a WM180V the way you did... Is the strap on the lead screw pulley 15mm wide ? I ordered most parts and will keep you posted on the conversion ....
Richard, thank you, the belt is 15mm wide. Keep in mind that NanoEls can only control one axis and you'd need Rocketronics or MegaEls to control both. Cheers!
i order your pcb design at jlc im interested doing your project as well. I will try to my DIY lathe thanks for the content.
Hello Maxim, nice and amazing job ! I'm thinking that I will apply this trick to my future LESTO SCINTILLA old lathe, are you available to assist me for a couple of beers, please?
Jonatan, thank you, sure, and you can even keep the beers :)
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks, let me receive the old lathe (today), as first point i need to buy an inverter for the motor and after that i will start with your project, my background is mechanical, but i like to play with with 3D and electronics, even if I'm a beginneer
This looks great! Have you had any issues with the Arduino Nano not being able to keep up with the pulses from the encoder at higher spindle speeds?
This could be an issue if your encoder has more than 2000 pulses per revolution
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks for the info! Out of curiosity how did you come up with that number?
@@k4kfh check out the thread on this video with Sehmus, he tested the 4096 line encoder.
На сколько вольт блок питания для поперечного nema23? И сколько ньютон двигатель?
Я использую 24V 5A на оба мотора - NEMA 23 и NEMA 17. По-хорошему на NEMA 23 надо 48V.
NEMA 17 бывают разной можности в зависимости от длины тушки, в крепление влезает до 60мм (0.71nm) - www.aliexpress.com/item/4000017602774.html
Did you ever release the code for automatic thread cutting? I don't see it in the list of features.
Прошу прощения , еще один вопрос: какой параметр определяет скорость перемещения суппорта при управлении кнопками rigt left. Спасибо.
PULSE_MIN_US. По этой теме сейчас идёт обсуждение в github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/discussions/45
this is amazing! for threading is it possible to stop the lathe at the same time the carriage stops? it seems like it continues to rotate which would not work well for many kinds of threading... i would love to know if multi-start threads would be an option for this, and if 0.8-1.0mm threads will be possible! (apologies if you answer this - only 5 mins in but this is great!)
It's not possible to stop the lathe when carriage stops using NanoEls - but Rocketronics ELS has such an output you could theoretically wire up to your lathe to make it stop, depends on your lathe control board. However, I'm not sure in which cases this could be required. Normally you'd have a recess at the end of the thread where the cutter doesn't touch the part. Alternatively, the cutter cuts a resting spot by itself when NanoEls stops are used and nothing bad happens.
Multi-start threads are possible but require effort - make the compound parallel to the ways and move it to start the next groove.
Great
After i watched this, i ordered all components! Thanks Maxim! You're number ONE! :-) Just one question... I can't see a picture of how i need to plug all wires on PCB... i see pictures printed on it, but i have some doubts... if you have time to draw a scheme we would benefit from it! Regards from Italy!
Hi biri3d, thank you. I've added the wiring scheme in github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/blob/main/README.md#assembly - hope it helps!
@@MaximKachurovskiy thank you! Now it's clear! :-)
nice job but i see you have 2 motors on the lathe but only one is mentioned in the schematic
There are 2 versions of NanoEls available, 1-axis and multi-axis, please see github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels for more info
Привет. Файл крепления энкодера не выкладывал? Не мог бы ты поделиться им?
Привет, выкладывал - github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/tree/main/h1/encoder - github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels#encoder-base
Just found your channel and subscribed. Your system looks really good. I'm an old man with limited coding skills, so please excuse this question if the answer is obvious to you; Can the code be easily modified to suit an old Imperial leadscrew (8 TPI) to cut metric threads?
Thanks in advance.
Gary, yes, you would simply specify your lead screw size as 317.5 in github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/blob/main/h1/NanoEls.ino#L8
i have bean looking at this option for a mayford. like your build. have you looked at wade,o desighn. unfortunatly he does not seem to respond on the build. but i like his functions. i will look at using a teensy 4.1 or 4.0 to run the system instead of arduino. should mostly be same code, just teensy is much faster and will handle many times the demand of the system easy.
Hi Maxime, I finally completed the project upgrading my little machine shop 7x16 hi torque mini lathe using your nanoEls. the first thing I notice is when I'm using nema23 stepper motor 3Nm with Rtelligent R60 driver at 600 to 700 rpm during turning operation the stepper motor still rotating for about 10 or 15 seconds when i stop the spindle. so I decided to replace it with servo motor. the servo motor doesn't have this issue and it is almost no noise. except it is low torque (I'm using Nema23 Integrated easy servo motor 180w 0.9Nm from stepper online). If I want to use a gear reduction between servo and lead screw to increase the torque let say 2 to 1 or 3 to 1 what do I need to change from the coding?
thank you in advance.
Hi Sonny. "rotating for about 10 or 15 seconds when i stop the spindle" - this happens when Arduino doesn't have enough time to issue step signals. Usually solved by reducing the micro-stepping (e.g. from 800 to 400), lowering pitch or lowering RPM. "2 to 1 or 3 to 1 what do I need to change from the coding?" - I think you should be able to reducing LEAD_SCREW_HMM 2x or 3x respectively. Thank you!
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thank you so much.
Hi,
Congratulations and thank you,
I don't know programming and I ask you,
If the lead screw has a pitch of 1.5 mm is it enough to change only line 8?
For 400p / r encoder change only line 5?
Andrei, yes, sounds right. Thank you
Great build. I'm considering to build your version, thogh i have a question. I would like to cut bigger pitches or maybe helixes (ofc in lower rpms). Is there any thread loosing problem with larger pitches or stoping and reversing?
Thanks
Hi, there should be no problem issuing steps, question is whether the stepper will be able to execute. Getting a strong closed loop stepper with adequate power supply should solve this e.g. a.aliexpress.com/_u6Iotf
@@MaximKachurovskiy I did some calculations and measurements and decided to build it just like your example. Just with a 48V 5A power supply or should i up the Amps? And I noticed some thing about the pcb. In the github docs. the pcb has a box with two pins in the arduino nano outlines but in the video it does not.
@@TheBilgiOne you'd need to pick the max speed and torque first, then driver and stepper and then you'd know the power supply specs from what's written on the driver.
Can the arduino nano also handle a 1000 pulse/rev encoder ? I have built the ELS design of Clough42 but yet to install it. Love the automatic feed of the z axis !
David, thank you, IIRC someone tested it with more than 1000 lines and it worked.
Maxim would you mind if I ask how big is the stepper motor driving the lead screw?
You'd want to use closed loop NEMA 23, ideally 100mm+ in length (e.g. 3 Nm)
wow
You should seek these, I’d buy
Niceeeee!!!!!
Максим приветствую!Допилил я эл.гитару,все получилось ОК!Теперь все летает...Огромное спасибо тебе!!!
Закончились мучения с ошибками и пропусками после замены на нормальный драйвер шагового двигателя,на Leadshine DM856, 80В, 5.6А и блока питания на 48V.Вот теперь занялся второй осью.
Все уже сделал и установил,а вот прошивки под два шаговика не нашел?
Василий, поздравляю! К сожалению nanoels прошивки на две оси не существует, вторую ось поддерживают гитары Олега и Rocketronics
@@MaximKachurovskiy А в конце видео нарезка резьбы в автомате,работают две оси?
@@vasilijgaiduk7594 это экспериментальная версия nanoels которая не пригодна для нормального использования. Там работы непочатый край с двумя осями к сожалению.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Очень жаль.А я так обрадовался что все так работает и далее подключу другую ось...,так как все настроено и сделано под эту плату ардуино нано и переделывать под другой софт ArduinoMego нужно все теперь..
@@vasilijgaiduk7594 управлять двумя осями с помощью существующих кнопок все равно было бы очень неудобно, в любом случае нужен новый контроллер. NanoEls пока что чисто для одной оси. Посмотрите в сторону Rocketronics, я на новый год приезжаю в Москву, могу помочь с доставкой.
will you be offering install kits for the mini lathe?
I plan to but it may take a few months :) Ordering all the components yourself for now is still a way to go.
Looks great! Where placed second stepper motor?
Thanks! In the grey box right under the cross slide hand-wheel.
@@MaximKachurovskiyBut the gray box's very compact. How did you fit stepper motor and transmission into such a small size? Maybe next video? :)
@@Engineer_Aleksey yes, it took a while to figure this out and I love how it fits there nice and cosy - imgur.com/a/I30FYa0 - thanks for suggestion to make a video, I indeed have quite a few lessons to share from that design process :-)
Макс, я хочу электронную гитару как у тебя. Как мне подключить второй двигатель? Ты плату переделывал?
@@MrMaKKeNi привет! Моя гитара нормально работает только с одним двигателем. Вариант с двумя двигателями чисто экспериментальный и требует ещё очень много работы (новая плата, месяц кода, я даже пока толком не начинал). Если тебе нужно два двигателя, то это либо гитара Олега с Чипмейкера, либо Rocketronics.
Hi Maxim
Great job!!
Just have one problem with the stepper. I am loosing steps if I drive the spindel with F1 or F2 buttons. How can i reduce the speed.
Hi Swatur, which stepper, driver, voltage and current are you using? 1: use higher voltage for steppers e.g. 48 instead of 24. Check if your driver supports it. 2: on the stepper driver, set more current - if your stepper can handle more. 3: use a better driver - cheap e.g. DM556 from AliExpress are known to lose steps on default settings. 4: For an immediate fix, lower the acceleration (line 23) PULSE_DELTA_US from 7 to 2, PULSE_MAX_US (line 22) from 2000 to 1500.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Hi Maxime I use the same stepper and driver that you suggested. I drive it with 24 volts. Ampers are 3.1A. I tested the other too but with these settings it works the best. I will change the settings for acceleration.
Thanks for your quick help
@@swatur7299 another idea: check that ENCODER_STEPS, MOTOR_STEPS and LEAD_SCREW_HMM parameters you used match your hardware. E.g. if you tell ELS that MOTOR_STEPS is 400 but your actual driver is set to 200, ELS will try to move the stepper too fast and it will stall.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Hi Maxime I have checked evrything it is ok .If i set t driver to 400 steps and Els to 200 it works fine . With a pitch of 2mm I get a 1mm thread as expected. I think it is a problem of the driver and the motor. with lower speed evryting works.
I have now set PULSE_MIN_US to 1000 and it works perfect!
ESP32-S3 Dev but what is the actual part number? The program compiles succesfully. I used ESP32-WROOM-32D and am able to flash the unit but it comes up withis following comment "Leaving... Hard resetting via RTS pin..." is this wrong?
That message means that code was successfully uploaded. Disconnect the USB and reconnect, it will boot into the program. I'm using ESP32-S3-WROOM-1U-N16R2 but many other S3 2-core modules are also likely compatible.
Hello Maxim, i have Problems mounting the Encoder on my lathe. I thought about a Disc on the rear of the spindle with holes and a laser counter, is it possible without changing the code, how many holes would you say is necessary?
Hey Stahlwurm, please post some photos describing your situation in github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/discussions, it's hard to say without seeing what's going on. Cheers!
Hello Maxim. I've got the same mini-Lathe and was looking for doing the same as yours or Glough42. Your version seems to work well with arduino. Something that clough42 avoided, stating that the atmega microcontroller was no able to count fast enough to deliver the command to the motor on time. So I've read a bit your ino code on github but I'm kind of confused. Is there somewhere an explanation of itthat you made to understand how you proceed to make your calculations? I'm not a master on programmation...
Thanks
Really great work you've done!
Hi Levisgil47, the core idea behind my code is to calculate the position of the stepper based on rotary encoder as s=r*constant. I'm doing this in a loop(), constantly move my stepper (and lead screw) where it should be. It's incredibly precise, I checked this against 30cm store-bought threaded rod and mine was more accurate. James from Clough42 might have been thinking about some other way to control the stepper.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks for your answer.
James made three videos named "the Electronic Leadscrew Part 123: Proof of Concept" where he explained his calculation:
ruclips.net/video/FTs9GygRQ-U/видео.html
In part 2 he goes more in detail for the math.
It seems that within 20usec he check the encoder position and the compaire the desired position the motor should mouve with the ongoing position of the stepper motor...
....and he said that he had to use a 32bit microcontroler to be able to be acurate enough so there is no missing steps or else. I guess. Is it what you've done as well? No problem with arduino on that point so far?
Where is your loop ? In the main loop ? I've seen that you are using interruption in the arduino code. Right?
Thanks... sorry for my questions
@@Levisgil47 rewatched, I think he's saying that Arduino won't be able to handle thousands of pulses per second from the rotary encoder. I have 600 step rotary encoder which I ran at 1200 rpm with no issues. Arduino was also driving the stepper at the same time.
@@Levisgil47 all of Russia is running their lead screws on Arduino, I'm far from the first person to make this work. Arduino supports 32 bit values (long) which I use. github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/blob/c52eea9777fb40b07f7e8cd6d48bea51737d3913/h1/NanoEls.ino#L673
@@MaximKachurovskiy I've look a bit to your program and I don't understand why you are using eeprom. Also, you are caling AUnit.h. What for? Thanks
Добрый день
Как Вам резцедержка 250-000, давно присматриваюсь к ней. Мне она показалась маленькой для моего станка 180х300. И тонкая нижняя полка у кассет напрягает.. Можете что-то сказать по этой резцедержке, как она в работе?
Согласен, маловата, довольно хлипкая, но работать можно если приспособиться - особенно если для хобби :) Сейчас я бы на размер побольше взял. Правда там нужно крепление на станок дорабатывать, но думаю для вас это не будет большой проблемой.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Ясно, благодарю за ответ
Hey, do you sell the kit anymore? i am interested to buy one, also does the kit include the encoder?
I do, I also sell an improved version of this controller that can control up to 4 motors, please check kachurovskiy.com - make sure that the country at the bottom of the page is correct as it affects the products shown. Encoder is not included but you can order it on AliExpress for a single digit dollar amount.
Hi, Maxim! I can't found STL files for stepper mount, plastic gear, adapter, encoder base and encoder gear at your github...
Alexey, they're each in a separate folder, e.g. github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/tree/main/h1/encoder
@@MaximKachurovskiy OK, then you have many corrupted hiperlinks "STL File" on main page of this project. By click on those links I arrive at pictures, not STL files.
@@Engineer_Aleksey below every image there should be a link to the STL file but you're making a good point, I will make images link to STL too!
@@MaximKachurovskiy прерву свои упражнения в английском, тяжело большие предложения формулировать с непривычки :) Ещё раз поясню суть проблемы: есть страница проекта kachurovskiy/nanoels, на этой странице в тексте несколько гиперссылок под картинками, называющихся "STL File". Часть из них действительно ведёт к STL файлам (например, корпус и две первые шестерни), но остальная часть ссылается на картинки, что явная ошибка. Надеюсь так стало понятнее.
@@Engineer_Aleksey точняк, спасибо :)
Can Imperial threads be cut ? 28TPI =metric pitch =.907mm 24TPI=1.058mm
I ordered 20 new style PCB's 1/25/21 when they get here if any one in US needs a board $3 + actual ship cost till they run out.
Hi, only hundreds of mm are supported, not thousands. This precision should be enough for most applications. For comparison, threaded rods from my hardware store are off by 1.5% and nobody bats an eye.
@@MaximKachurovskiy chance of teensy 4.0 software, the fastGPIO won't import to teensy.
@@HardwareTX if you've ordered the PCB as per GitHub, it only supports Arduino Nano. If you plan to run NanoEls code on Teensy using your own version of a PCB, you can just fall back to using classic digitalRead() (replace lines 100-101 with "#define DREAD(x) digitalRead(x)"), Teensy is so fast that this optimization likely won't be needed. I won't be able to fully support you there though since I don't have the respective hardware.
Maxim Kachurovskiy Thanks! I am going to use your code with the pcbs i ordered. I got extras as shipping was the most expensive part. I figured I could save time and $ for anyone in US that wanted a PCB once I get them.
Thanks again!
@HardwareTx do you still have boards available?
Bonjour sur quelle bouton régler le driver sw1 sw2 ect.. merci
Dilan, sorry, not sure what your question is about.
@@MaximKachurovskiy je parle des réglage du driver qui contrôle le moteur
@@MrDelabrousse you can find what those switches control on your stepper motor driver housing, there's a table and explanatory text describing which SW... switch controls what. Cheers!
@@MaximKachurovskiy comparer a votre projet il n'y a pas de réglage précis du driver à faire?? on peut régler comme on veut ??
@@MrDelabrousse it really depends on your lathe, motor, driver and how heavy a cut you want to be able to make. Try some sensible settings (e.g. 800 stepper steps and 1-2A current) and adjust based on results!
Would the there be any async issues if higher cpr encoder used? like 4096 for example.
I didn't test Arduino limits here, not sure.
@@MaximKachurovskiy I'll give it a try and let you know
@@MaximKachurovskiy Backlash might be the reason why the threads are not ending up at correct size on fully automatic mode. You do several back and forward moves there. A backlash compensation value when changing direction on stepper might help.
Worked but I had to introduce microsteps for smoother transition. I am using high end closed loop stepper around 6NM so no torque issues even if I go down to 1/32 micro steps. Next thing is to try to run it of STM32F1 board since I have bunch of them.
@@PoYoTheWild sweet! What is the max spindle rpm that you tested on?
How are you de-bouncing the key press of the buttons
Pat, for the keys that need debouncing, I have some variable e.g. leftStopFlag that I use to detect whether a given key press was already handled and not released since. github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/blob/main/h1/NanoEls.ino#L474
привет. я сделал твой проект. ток плату не стал заказывать. долго так спаял. только у тебя ссылка на один шаговик
Привет, поздравляю. Как закончишь, выложи несколько фотографий на github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/discussions - всем будет интересно посмотреть. Про шаговик не понял :)
@@MaximKachurovskiy хорошо выложу) кнопки только заказал на алиэкспрес, на первое время попробую у себя найти кнопки в магазине завтра.не могу понять куда цеплять шаговик с драйвером на продольную подачу. на энкодер омрон 1800 импульсов вроде работает, боялся что будет глючить.
@@user-ij9kh7jf8o спасибо. NanoEls поддерживает только одну ось пока что.
@@MaximKachurovskiy мне пока одна ось и нужна.
@@user-ij9kh7jf8o в таком случае может быть эта картинка поможет понять, что куда подключается - raw.githubusercontent.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/main/h1/buildexamples/nanoels-pcb-h1.jpg - или в коде посмотри интересующие пины? Успехов.
как с вами связаться? есть вопросы
Задавайте тут или на GitHub - чтобы ответы были в общем доступе.
@@MaximKachurovskiy мне бы фото Вам показать, как располагается шестерня энкодера
wm210 красный, имеется шестерня шпинделя на 60 зубов, она начинается в 22мм от передней бабки, а шестерня с энкодером, имеет вынос 30мм, можно ли изменить модель?
необходимо зубы шестерни сделать ниже, или глубже на 10мм, чтобы шестерня одевалась глубже, вдоль тела энкодера. спасибо
@@DIY-tu8hy видимо у вас энкодер длиннее обычного? Присылайте пожалуйста чертеж шестерни в GitHub issues, постараюсь сделать
На русском то есть такой контент?
На ГитХаб страничке есть авто-перевод на русский: translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=en&tl=ru&u=https%3A%2F%2Fgithub.com%2Fkachurovskiy%2Fnanoels%2Fblob%2Fmain%2FREADME.md