Exercise in pushing composite materials to its limits. You could use the 3D printed parts as a shell, fill them with granite epoxy and use a wider linear rail making this a very rigid and capable little lathe that can take deeper cuts in steel. Nice work.
@@MaximKachurovskiy yes indeed, good cast iron or epoxy headstock designs include some mechanism to constraint the twist, e.g. a wedge pinning the headstock and the bed on Z axis to prevent the Y axis twist. Foundations of mechanical accuracy by Wayne Moore is an excellent read, there are some great ideas there.
@@MaximKachurovskiy What's resisting the twist most, the compression strength of the 4 threaded bolts to the base ? That wouldn't be sufficient. I can't tell how you made the headstock, assuming it is solid 100% infill then yes making it wider would help. I would also consider making that completely solid without the cut out for the servo and move the servo to the other end. You will get more strength by increasing the bed to headstock contact area. I still think it you're going to try rebuilding this, consider using an epoxy infill of some sort even concrete with aggregate will work.
After part one I started to type a couple of suggestions that came to mind. After a few words, I realised that there were more videos to follow, so I decided to delete it, and wait. It was a wise choice, as you have incorporated the ideas I had, along with a bunch of others! That's a really neat project, thanks.
I just got a part two to watch so need to see the first part. An amazing project and must have taken weeks to print each part. I see a small metal lathe in the background. I printed parts to increase my small Jet wood lathe from a 10 inch to 14 with two inch risers.
I think this build would benefit from a mixture of wood glue and saw dust as filler but overall very nicely done. Epoxy granite is good but wood glue and saw dust is near as good and cheaper. Side note, drying wood then saturating it with wood glue makes for a very strong composite
Hola a todos. Tu proyecto es increible, excelente. Tu trabajo impecable, admiro a las personas que tienen la capacidad de crear y te luciste. La verdad te felicito de corazón. Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires Argentina.
Be cool to see if you could come up with a way to use the cross slides by hand in the standard positions so you can get a feel while using the machine. Additionally like some people and yourself have commented about, headstock twist is a problem that you could probably fix with some additionally larger threaded rod and some high strength epoxy when you're finally ready to lock everything down for good. My only real complaint with this is a silly one, and it's that I don't like this method of attaching chucks to the spindle. I know a cam-lock spindle is a bit bigger than what you're using on this, and definitely more expensive, but the convenience and safety of the cam-locks really outweighs the annoyance of having to fit a screwdriver or allen key in to the spindle just to swap out from a 3 jaw to a 4 jaw chuck. That said, I'd like to see any additional improvements you make to this design since I think the problem you mention in the video description with not getting a good finish on steel is from lack of rigidity but that can be an easy fix with later versions.
You can move the lead screws manually, just disable the motors on the keyboard and attach plastic wheels to the floating ends of the ball screws. Sadly rods don't help against twisting, only against lifting. Head is already epoxied in place. Please share any alternative cam-lock spindles that can be used here, I see none on AliExpress. The spindle I currently use aligns the chuck well automatically and is not much trouble to change chucks. Or perhaps you can have 2 lathes with different chucks on each :) Steel issue will be addressed.
Hello, you will have a video explaining the type of electronic board you use, the firmware and software, your project is very interesting and I would like to do it here in my country Mexico
I would avoid using PETG or PLA as they both creep over time, even more under compression. Polycarbonate carbon fibre would be my choice, but that would be quite expensive to print. You can get some fairly decent priced polycarbonates though. Seems to cut nice though, id just be a bit concerned that over time with the creep things would go out of spec. I like the rails though, im a bit fed up of dovetails and trying to get the gib strips perfect.
Fun and expensive toy project for anyone who has never worked on a real lathe. And therefore does not know that stability is the most important thing for a good working lathe.
Well it ultimately depends on the needs of the user and the level of accuracy that's required. Something tells me you couldn't do half of what was shown in this video. People who only have something negative to say to those actually getting stuff done really irritate me.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Получилось сломать законы физики? Подавайте заявку на Нобелевку. Зачем учить сопромат, если у блогера на ютубчике "все получилось".
this is a fantastic project but youll never maintain that level of accuracy with any form of thermo plastic because they all suffer from various level of creep. if you dont expect good accuracy it will be fine, but it will never hold that accuracy for long.
@@sweetgumnyc7794 my goal here is to reach the limits of what is possible with plastic and show the results. I will report on the creep should it occur.
а станок такой для перемотки трансформаторних котушок реально использомвать ? Но нужно получаеться шаговой мотор еще доставить и натяжители ? Правильно
Гораздо технологичнее и дешевле печатать на 3D принтере не полнотелые элементы станка из пластика, а опалубку (оснастку) для заливки в последующем станины бетоном. Внутри армировать стальными болтами или стержнями. Тут и дорогой пластик меньше бы расходовался. И время печати в РАЗЫ меньше. Мешок цемента стоит очень дешево по сравнению с пластиком. Все что нужно для такого станка это несколько шпилек стальных для закладных, направляющие и пару ШВП. Ну и двигатели с электроникой управления. С бетоном конструкция будет гораздо жестче и послужит долго.
You are a genius. It were great if you find a partner in China that can make a parts-kit from cast iron. Btw: ELS on my mini-lathe became from a project to a very useful tool. The only little flaw is when mating the threads with a counter part to test it. The wiggling to get it loose can fool the encoder in a wrong position. But I am very careful with that.
Really great project! But i think the use of 3d printed parts should be avoided. All metal is not much more expensive but will last much longer and precission will remain for longer time.
@@android4cg the problem is usually not in metal, but in accessibility to real mill/lathe/grinder and amount time and skills necessary to process it. While with 3d printer (good one) you can relatively easily get 0.05 mm precision with material which later relatively easy to process. For examle I made Z plate for my desktop cnc on 3d printer and it works fine for my tasks (pcb, wood milling etc.) However once I have an opportunity, I will change it to metal. So, such projects are good for start, and give you a possibility to have a working machine for minimum cost.
For the metal base setup you will only need drill to setup metal bearings (kepping the chuck) and linear rails for Z-axis. Everything else around this base setup could be plastic, even if metal will be always the best option.
@android4cg if you look on professional machines, you'll find that mounting place for rails is flat and parallel to each other up to 0.01 mm (if not more for hi-end machines). It is absolutely not enough just to bold rails to whatever serface you have.
sorry dude after 2 and a half minute i cant watch this anymore, sounds stupid but working with 3d prints to build a machine is pretty good and cool but you are doing some bad moves with it.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude I dig this salted butter yellow filament you printed this out of.
Exercise in pushing composite materials to its limits. You could use the 3D printed parts as a shell, fill them with granite epoxy and use a wider linear rail making this a very rigid and capable little lathe that can take deeper cuts in steel. Nice work.
Steel issues come from sideways chuck deflection i.e. headstock twisting.
@@MaximKachurovskiy yes indeed, good cast iron or epoxy headstock designs include some mechanism to constraint the twist, e.g. a wedge pinning the headstock and the bed on Z axis to prevent the Y axis twist. Foundations of mechanical accuracy by Wayne Moore is an excellent read, there are some great ideas there.
@@ryebis my headstock is dead glued to the bed, the twist comes from the headstock itself twisting. It just needs to be wider.
@@MaximKachurovskiy What's resisting the twist most, the compression strength of the 4 threaded bolts to the base ? That wouldn't be sufficient. I can't tell how you made the headstock, assuming it is solid 100% infill then yes making it wider would help. I would also consider making that completely solid without the cut out for the servo and move the servo to the other end. You will get more strength by increasing the bed to headstock contact area. I still think it you're going to try rebuilding this, consider using an epoxy infill of some sort even concrete with aggregate will work.
@@ryebis There's that Aussie dude filling 3D prints with concrete to make cheap rigid parts.
Amazing, well done. You're giving Chris Borge some tough competition 😂
After part one I started to type a couple of suggestions that came to mind. After a few words, I realised that there were more videos to follow, so I decided to delete it, and wait.
It was a wise choice, as you have incorporated the ideas I had, along with a bunch of others!
That's a really neat project, thanks.
Excellent project. We shared this video (alongside part 1) on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
I congratulate you on this project, I look forward to seeing more from you. You have given me quite a bit of inspiration.
Я думал это вообще невозможно. сразу лайк и подписка, это восхитительно!
Замечательный проект, я восхищен!!! По одной из ваших конструкций я сделал электронную гитару для Корвета 407, всё работает , спасибо.
Fantastic!!! Your project Is more wonderful!
I just got a part two to watch so need to see the first part. An amazing project and must have taken weeks to print each part. I see a small metal lathe in the background. I printed parts to increase my small Jet wood lathe from a 10 inch to 14 with two inch risers.
You've done an amazing job on that lathe. Kudos to you and well done. Regards, Aaron.
great experience for you and for us. Congratulations.
I think this build would benefit from a mixture of wood glue and saw dust as filler but overall very nicely done. Epoxy granite is good but wood glue and saw dust is near as good and cheaper.
Side note, drying wood then saturating it with wood glue makes for a very strong composite
Very damn cool man! fantastic work!
I am very impressed and inspired. Thx for the Good job.
Amazing work! Congratulations
Beautiful machine, well done!
This is incredible!
Very impressive build Maxim!!
wow! you have done a great job!
Hola a todos. Tu proyecto es increible, excelente. Tu trabajo impecable, admiro a las personas que tienen la capacidad de crear y te luciste. La verdad te felicito de corazón. Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires Argentina.
Looks perfect
Very nice job!
très beau travail et superbement documenté ce qui est rare ;merci pour le partage
Good job 👌
very very cool, congratulations! considering what it is....largely 3d printed...it is a great result and still makes many things possible.
Very impressive!
It turned out great. I would add thrust pads on the axis of the clamping chuck - ball pads do not have rigidity = vibrate when turning.
Very nice! 👍
6:20 thats some serious deflection when you are threading. you can watch the part move away
amazing job
that is INSANE!!!!!!!! MORE!!!!!! MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sensacional 👏👏
Excellent
100% thought it was a LEGO build lathe based off the thumbnail
idk why it just looked like legos haha
Que belleza de tornito amigo excelente 👍
Be cool to see if you could come up with a way to use the cross slides by hand in the standard positions so you can get a feel while using the machine.
Additionally like some people and yourself have commented about, headstock twist is a problem that you could probably fix with some additionally larger threaded rod and some high strength epoxy when you're finally ready to lock everything down for good.
My only real complaint with this is a silly one, and it's that I don't like this method of attaching chucks to the spindle. I know a cam-lock spindle is a bit bigger than what you're using on this, and definitely more expensive, but the convenience and safety of the cam-locks really outweighs the annoyance of having to fit a screwdriver or allen key in to the spindle just to swap out from a 3 jaw to a 4 jaw chuck.
That said, I'd like to see any additional improvements you make to this design since I think the problem you mention in the video description with not getting a good finish on steel is from lack of rigidity but that can be an easy fix with later versions.
You can move the lead screws manually, just disable the motors on the keyboard and attach plastic wheels to the floating ends of the ball screws.
Sadly rods don't help against twisting, only against lifting. Head is already epoxied in place.
Please share any alternative cam-lock spindles that can be used here, I see none on AliExpress. The spindle I currently use aligns the chuck well automatically and is not much trouble to change chucks. Or perhaps you can have 2 lathes with different chucks on each :)
Steel issue will be addressed.
nice work
Impressive!
Hello, you will have a video explaining the type of electronic board you use, the firmware and software, your project is very interesting and I would like to do it here in my country Mexico
@@hugomg1000 hi, no video yet but check github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels
I would avoid using PETG or PLA as they both creep over time, even more under compression. Polycarbonate carbon fibre would be my choice, but that would be quite expensive to print. You can get some fairly decent priced polycarbonates though.
Seems to cut nice though, id just be a bit concerned that over time with the creep things would go out of spec. I like the rails though, im a bit fed up of dovetails and trying to get the gib strips perfect.
Should be fine thanks to large contact area if torque on the nuts is below 30Nm chatgpt.com/share/678c0ef6-9a74-8002-b66d-cb9d7cc30f86
Fun and expensive toy project for anyone who has never worked on a real lathe. And therefore does not know that stability is the most important thing for a good working lathe.
Well it ultimately depends on the needs of the user and the level of accuracy that's required. Something tells me you couldn't do half of what was shown in this video. People who only have something negative to say to those actually getting stuff done really irritate me.
belle petite machine !
как бы вы не старались, на пластике точно не получится )
@@Bee87ify уже получилось и будет ещё лучше
@MaximKachurovskiy ну это прокатит с несколькими деталями, со временем точность будет хромать )
@@MaximKachurovskiy Получилось сломать законы физики? Подавайте заявку на Нобелевку. Зачем учить сопромат, если у блогера на ютубчике "все получилось".
WOW, great work! what else
Fixing spindle bearing with a locktight compound is a big no-no.. You will get a wild runout...
The part you have on your hand on 1:30, do you have a link to buy? thanks. Good job.
Spindle? www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004521050803.html - Type B
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks!
Добавить еще фрезерный блок и фрнзеровать через ось С
Trabalho maravilhoso. Parabéns
this is a fantastic project but youll never maintain that level of accuracy with any form of thermo plastic because they all suffer from various level of creep. if you dont expect good accuracy it will be fine, but it will never hold that accuracy for long.
@@sweetgumnyc7794 my goal here is to reach the limits of what is possible with plastic and show the results. I will report on the creep should it occur.
@@MaximKachurovskiy what material did you end up using?
damn man, the ball bearings on the headstock.... your probably gonna wanna upgrade those to pins later T_T
@@ja-no6fx I like them much more than the tapered roller bearings I had before. So quiet and no mess.
Amazing job. Where did you source the spindle?
@@rybaxek s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EzSlegu
why didn't you add concrete instead of just sand ???
@@Gr8Success sand absorbs vibrations better but I will indeed switch to concrete for more stiffness
а станок такой для перемотки трансформаторних котушок реально использомвать ? Но нужно получаеться шаговой мотор еще доставить и натяжители ? Правильно
Теперь я знаю, как будет выглядеть моя защита от стружки.
Hi, wäre sehr interessant zu sehen was sie kann.😅
Моё уважение ❤
What plastic you use? GWork
круто. подписался. рекомендация ютуба.
Was that a bit of chatter on the thread?
@@lucasmontec yes, headstock twisting sideways too much, need to widen and/or fill with concrete
Can you cut steel with that lathe?
@@GnosisMan50 yes, as shown in the video
:O cool!
What plastic are you using for lathe prints?
@@robotustra PETG 100% infill
Der Aufwand ist etwas zu groß und da ist ein Kauf ratsamer für mich. Selbst wenn die Unterlagen frei zur Verfügung ständen.
I've started to put sand in my 3d prints,,
Макс привет. Подскажи, линейки можно подключить к этому контроллеру?
@@4arus порты для линеек есть но поддержки в коде пока нет
@MaximKachurovskiy да, я читал на гитхабе. Но думаю ты справишься, мы в тебя верим 😉🤝
It cuts!
Гораздо технологичнее и дешевле печатать на 3D принтере не полнотелые элементы станка из пластика, а опалубку (оснастку) для заливки в последующем станины бетоном. Внутри армировать стальными болтами или стержнями. Тут и дорогой пластик меньше бы расходовался. И время печати в РАЗЫ меньше. Мешок цемента стоит очень дешево по сравнению с пластиком.
Все что нужно для такого станка это несколько шпилек стальных для закладных, направляющие и пару ШВП. Ну и двигатели с электроникой управления.
С бетоном конструкция будет гораздо жестче и послужит долго.
тогда лучше из гранитной крошки с эбоксидной смолой, которая хорошо вибрацию поглощает 😁
@@Bee87ify Добавляешь в бетон ПВА и проблема решена. Эпоксидка гораздо дороже.
Привет. Hgr15?
@@despicabledmitry привет, да.
@MaximKachurovskiy а что за двигатель? Тоже на hgr15 хочу делать но думал мало их. Значит нормально видимо для 100 патрона)
Отлично!
You are a genius. It were great if you find a partner in China that can make a parts-kit from cast iron. Btw: ELS on my mini-lathe became from a project to a very useful tool. The only little flaw is when mating the threads with a counter part to test it. The wiggling to get it loose can fool the encoder in a wrong position. But I am very careful with that.
Wouldnt that be just a normal mini-lathe then?
@@c-djinni Maxim's design is much better to run it with a CNC control than a normal mini-lathe.
That shouldn't work at all. Thats a pretty cheap way of making a soft metal lathe if you got the motor already. I absolutely love the color.
КРУТО
Невероятно!
I think you will a lot about plasticity from this.
The lack of explanation makes this a hard watch
а чё патрон стальной? почему не из пластика
🦾🦾🦾🔥🔥🔥
а в чем выгода вести канал на английском если вы русский?
Токарный для спанчбоба морковку точить.
Really great project! But i think the use of 3d printed parts should be avoided. All metal is not much more expensive but will last much longer and precission will remain for longer time.
All metal is considerably more expensive, hence why this exists
You only need to take 2x UCPA metal bearings (12€ each) u-steel and linear rails. Everything metal and no other parts needed for the base setup.
@@android4cg the problem is usually not in metal, but in accessibility to real mill/lathe/grinder and amount time and skills necessary to process it.
While with 3d printer (good one) you can relatively easily get 0.05 mm precision with material which later relatively easy to process.
For examle I made Z plate for my desktop cnc on 3d printer and it works fine for my tasks (pcb, wood milling etc.)
However once I have an opportunity, I will change it to metal.
So, such projects are good for start, and give you a possibility to have a working machine for minimum cost.
For the metal base setup you will only need drill to setup metal bearings (kepping the chuck) and linear rails for Z-axis. Everything else around this base setup could be plastic, even if metal will be always the best option.
@android4cg if you look on professional machines, you'll find that mounting place for rails is flat and parallel to each other up to 0.01 mm (if not more for hi-end machines).
It is absolutely not enough just to bold rails to whatever serface you have.
sorry dude after 2 and a half minute i cant watch this anymore, sounds stupid but working with 3d prints to build a machine is pretty good and cool but you are doing some bad moves with it.
Dude I dig this salted butter yellow filament you printed this out of.