Glad that you enjoyed. I can usually do the entire warm-up in about 4-5 minutes. By the time I get to the upper body stretches, I am already walking over to the route and sequencing it while I finish up the warm-up.
I tried this warm up exercise today before climbing. The result was amazing. I topped many routes that I used to consider very difficult. Thanks a lot!
Nice modification to your previous dynamic warmup. Doing some form of dynamic warmup just about every time I climb has been key to staying injury free. The arm, hand and finger ones have made a significant difference for me. The lower body and other dynamic stretching techniques are something I learned back in the early 90's for cross-country skiing and it's great to be able to apply the technique in climbing specific warm-up. Great work and many thanks for the work in getting this out.
Thanks. Doing a dynamic warm-up is key. I am glad the arm, hand and finger warm-ups have made a difference. The finger tendon glides have the most research behind them. They were originally developed for factory workers who accidentally cut their finger tendons and had to have surgery. Surgeons then needed to find the quickest way to get their fingers mobile so they could go back to work. Now we can use them for climbing.
This is just what i was looking for! I've been doing the Radio Exercises (from Asia) to warm up. They are good, but are more of an all-around warm-up and did nothing for my hands, ankles, and other spots. Thanks.
The “on the wall” dynamic stretches simulate "on the wall" movements that you would perform while climbing, but are done on the ground. To further improve the specificity of the warm-up, after performing on the ground, you can then begin light climbing and simulate the same movements (drop knee, flag, high step, etc...) while climbing.
Ideally when you arrive at the gym or crag, you would start with a cardiovascular warm-up followed by dynamic stretching and then some muscle priming work. If you aren't able to do so at the gym or crag before you climb, maybe at the stop lights, when the car is in park, you can do some tendon glides to keep the fingers moving. Something is better than nothing. Hope that helps!
Each stretch is held upto 3 seconds maximum. The goal is not to stretch but to work within your available range of motion. View this article for more information on dynamic stretching: theclimbingdoctor.com/Articles/dynamic-climbing-warm-up/?portfolioID=7063
A thorough warm-up increases blood flow, muscle flexibility, and body control. A complete warm-up includes four components, all to be performed in the following succession: Increase Blood Flow Improve Mobility Target Stability Begin Climbing Here are some additional resources to this video that may help 4 Stages of a warm-up: theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/prep-the-wrists-and-fingers-to-send-2/?portfolioCats=78%2C87%2C77%2C31%2C115%2C98 More details on a dynamic warm-up: theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/abbreviated-warm-up/?portfolioCats=22
There is evidence (McMillian et al. 2006) that suggests that for tasks requiring power and agility that a dynamic warm up offers performance benefits over static stretching or not warming up. This study and similar studies mostly focus on the lower body and plyometric exercises, whereas climbing (other than dynamic/powerful boulder problems and sport routes) involves more slow static movements and isometric contraction of the fingers. However, in a meta-analytic review of 104 studies (Simic et al. 2013) it was concluded that static stretching affected both isometric and dynamic tests negatively, meaning muscles can loose strength immediately following static stretching (including isometric strength). There is also some evidence that static stretching for long durations before activity can also increase injury rates. So the conclusion from current literature is to be prudent with long duration static stretching immediately before activity, especially if it is ballistic nature, such a powerful sport or boulder problems.
There are printouts and step-by-step instructions in an article I wrote for DPM mag: theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/warmup/?portfolioID=4702 www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/injury-prevention-climbing-warm
Clayton Underwood This is an example of a static finger stretch. Pulling back the finger and just holding. climber.co.nz/sites/climber.co.nz/files/styles/climber_large_landscape/public/TM_stretch_2_opt.jpeg?itok=2nWsIz8h
@Rohit Adventure Traveler Thanks for letting me know. I have gone ahead and made a separate link of an example of a static stretch on my webpage. The link is below. Please note that static stretching has benefits. However it is not advised immediately before you start climbing. theclimbingdoctor.com/static-stretch/
Below is a good article from The Climbing Doctor Blog on Femoroacetabular Impingement Syndrome (FAI) theclimbingdoctor.com/femoroacetabular-impingement-syndrome-fai/
Hi Paul, Thanks for watching the video. I believe that you may be confusing the the upper body stretches performed from 2:36 to 3:03 as static stretches. However, they are done by moving through a smooth range of motion and returning back to the starting position without holding the stretch, so they are considered dynamic stretches; along with all other stretches in this video. I hope this helps and please let me know if there is anything I can do to further clarify.
This is quick, effective and has made my climbing more enjoyable and less strenuous. Thanks!
Glad that you enjoyed. I can usually do the entire warm-up in about 4-5 minutes. By the time I get to the upper body stretches, I am already walking over to the route and sequencing it while I finish up the warm-up.
I tried this warm up exercise today before climbing. The result was amazing. I topped many routes that I used to consider very difficult. Thanks a lot!
Awesome. Glad it is helpful!
Nice modification to your previous dynamic warmup. Doing some form of dynamic warmup just about every time I climb has been key to staying injury free. The arm, hand and finger ones have made a significant difference for me. The lower body and other dynamic stretching techniques are something I learned back in the early 90's for cross-country skiing and it's great to be able to apply the technique in climbing specific warm-up. Great work and many thanks for the work in getting this out.
Thanks. Doing a dynamic warm-up is key. I am glad the arm, hand and finger warm-ups have made a difference. The finger tendon glides have the most research behind them. They were originally developed for factory workers who accidentally cut their finger tendons and had to have surgery. Surgeons then needed to find the quickest way to get their fingers mobile so they could go back to work. Now we can use them for climbing.
Thanks for this post @powgn. Dude I was starting to feel like there was no hope. Dont tell anyone I said that lol
Excellant warm up routine, which I will be using in furture.
This is just what i was looking for! I've been doing the Radio Exercises (from Asia) to warm up. They are good, but are more of an all-around warm-up and did nothing for my hands, ankles, and other spots. Thanks.
This warm up is amazing!!!
Glad you like it. I still do it before I climb!
Very helpful!
Special Thanks to Rockreation LA for allowing us to shoot: rockreation.com/
Excellent!
Thanks, glad that you enjoyed it.
Do we do "on the wall" stretches… on the wall?
The “on the wall” dynamic stretches simulate "on the wall" movements that you would perform while climbing, but are done on the ground. To further improve the specificity of the warm-up, after performing on the ground, you can then begin light climbing and simulate the same movements (drop knee, flag, high step, etc...) while climbing.
How long before starting would these stretches be effective? If I did them before a 20 minute drive would I still keep the benefits?
Ideally when you arrive at the gym or crag, you would start with a cardiovascular warm-up followed by dynamic stretching and then some muscle priming work. If you aren't able to do so at the gym or crag before you climb, maybe at the stop lights, when the car is in park, you can do some tendon glides to keep the fingers moving. Something is better than nothing. Hope that helps!
How long do you hold for each stretch approximately ??
Each stretch is held upto 3 seconds maximum. The goal is not to stretch but to work within your available range of motion. View this article for more information on dynamic stretching: theclimbingdoctor.com/Articles/dynamic-climbing-warm-up/?portfolioID=7063
@@TheClimbingDoctor ....also, how many repetitions of each are you doing per warmup?
@@icanhasbase perform each position in a rhythmical, slow and controlled motion 5 times per side
@@TheClimbingDoctor - Thanks for the reply and the great video!
So thats all you do to warm up? Nothing more? Like pushups or so?
i‘m confused..
A thorough warm-up increases blood flow, muscle flexibility, and body control. A complete warm-up includes four components, all to be performed in the following succession:
Increase Blood Flow
Improve Mobility
Target Stability
Begin Climbing
Here are some additional resources to this video that may help
4 Stages of a warm-up:
theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/prep-the-wrists-and-fingers-to-send-2/?portfolioCats=78%2C87%2C77%2C31%2C115%2C98
More details on a dynamic warm-up:
theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/abbreviated-warm-up/?portfolioCats=22
It seems you haven’t tried it. Already the first movements are quite effective if you do them properly.
how does static stretching do harm?
There is evidence (McMillian et al. 2006) that suggests that for tasks requiring power and agility that a dynamic warm up offers performance benefits over static stretching or not warming up. This study and similar studies mostly focus on the lower body and plyometric exercises, whereas climbing (other than dynamic/powerful boulder problems and sport routes) involves more slow static movements and isometric contraction of the fingers. However, in a meta-analytic review of 104 studies (Simic et al. 2013) it was concluded that static stretching affected both isometric and dynamic tests negatively, meaning muscles can loose strength immediately following static stretching (including isometric strength). There is also some evidence that static stretching for long durations before activity can also increase injury rates. So the conclusion from current literature is to be prudent with long duration static stretching immediately before activity, especially if it is ballistic nature, such a powerful sport or boulder problems.
can you make printouts for each move?
There are printouts and step-by-step instructions in an article I wrote for DPM mag:
theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/warmup/?portfolioID=4702
www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/injury-prevention-climbing-warm
What's an example of a static finger stretch?
Clayton Underwood
This is an example of a static finger stretch. Pulling back the finger and just holding. climber.co.nz/sites/climber.co.nz/files/styles/climber_large_landscape/public/TM_stretch_2_opt.jpeg?itok=2nWsIz8h
static is a long hold
@Rohit Adventure Traveler Thanks for letting me know. I have gone ahead and made a separate link of an example of a static stretch on my webpage. The link is below. Please note that static stretching has benefits. However it is not advised immediately before you start climbing.
theclimbingdoctor.com/static-stretch/
How many reps??
Perform "On the Wall" "Rotation" and "Upper Body" for 5 repetitions and "Wrist and Finger Tendon Glides" for 10 repetitions.
U know anything about fai?
Below is a good article from The Climbing Doctor Blog on Femoroacetabular Impingement Syndrome (FAI)
theclimbingdoctor.com/femoroacetabular-impingement-syndrome-fai/
Not sure I'd call this dynamic, as you are mixing a lot of static stretching, which just limits your gains before climbing.
Hi Paul,
Thanks for watching the video. I believe that you may be confusing the the upper body stretches performed from 2:36 to 3:03 as static stretches. However, they are done by moving through a smooth range of motion and returning back to the starting position without holding the stretch, so they are considered dynamic stretches; along with all other stretches in this video. I hope this helps and please let me know if there is anything I can do to further clarify.
Thanks for the reply, I''ll check it out when I get a free minute and reply back.
@@pauldlugozima2325 poor guy hasn't had a free minute since 11 month :(
I really can't tell if this video it's a joke or not
not a joke