@@CBReal1290whatever u use to measure that’s the “part”. Ex….if u used one cup to pour in the solvent (8x’s), then u use that same cup or amount to measure the silicone (1x) 8 to 1 ratio.
@@CBReal1290whatever u use to measure that’s the “part”. Ex….if u used one cup to pour in the solvent (8x’s), then u use that same cup or amount to measure the silicone (1x) 8 to 1 ratio.
On my duster, a long, cotton coat, I warmed about a liter of petroleum jelly until it was melted, and mixed it with about equal of just regular charcoal lighter fluid. I unbuttoned and unzipped everything, and used a spray bottle to soak the outer layers. I did this while it was layed out in the sun, and when it had sufficiently dried, I did it again. I also did this to a cotton wide-brim hat at the same time. Quite water repellant, and I can do it again in the future if needed.
I would imagine a leather boot treated with this would not breathe at all. That would mean I would sweat much quicker. Sounds like a trade-off. Also it would probably take a long time for the boot to dry out properly if it did got wet after long exposure to water. Please let me know what you think or experience. Great video thanks for posting.
I read the warning description and i wouldnt use mineral spirits like this. On warning label it says in case contact with skin wash with soap and water. So after making this repellant and coating shoes and allowed dry , if water is applied then some does water gets through shoe possibly mixed with these chemicals getting on foot skin surface. I dont think i want to try this because it might cause more problems . But definitely maybe for a homemade repellant for tents, backpack , tarp, possibly .
Definitely not a trade off. If your cranking out miles yes, your feet are gonna sweat. Key is a second pair of liners and socks to swap out, preferably near a water source so you can rinse out the sweat (salt) and dangle off your pack etc. to dry thoroughly. Did 18 miles and 2 passes in the Sierras one looong day and rinsed socks three times, arrived at camp with no blisters!!
It is the same as wearing a waterproof boot such as with goretex, which yes your feet will sweat. Don't wear waterproof boots in the summer unless you absolutely have to.
First, you want to clean the object you are going to seal. For leather follow the best method for your type of boots, skipping any soaps with oils. You can however, add any types of dyes and scuff covers etc. Once fully dry then add this last waterproofing step. Always remove your laces before doing any work on your boots.
@@alan4sure In contrast to PFAS the mineral spirits evaporate and don't bioaccumulate. If you don't want to use mineral spirits you could also use isopropanol aka rubbing alcohol
Ingredients: ~1 qt (946 ml) Odourless Mineral Spirits (aka White Spirit or Mineral Turpentine) to 100% Clear Silicone ~2.6 oz (1 tube, 83ml). Mix anywhere from 1:1 to 3:1... does not have to be exact since mineral spirits will evaporate after application. Need mixing container and paint brush (cleaned out with mineral spirits when done).
But he says half a quart of mineral spirit, not one full quart. So if the silicone tube content is 83ml, as you indicate, the ratio would be 6:1, right?
I'm watching this in 2022. How did the waterproofing last?? Did you try it in wet grass, walking in puddles of water or in ankle deep snow for extended periods?? I didn't see any follow up. How did this work over a period of several weeks or months or a year or two?? Looks like a terrific idea. Thanks for sharing. Ax
I personally did this on my boots 3 years ago. It held up incredibly for the first 2 years and then I kind of forgot that I had done it in the first place so I'd give it two Canadian Winters.
I wonder how long it lasts? I imagine constant flexing of the boot at the usual places will eventually crack the silicone, losing its waterproofing. Nothing will remove or stick to cured silicone, so it cant be replenished. The beauty of beeswax and similar stuff, is that it readily redissolves and can be replensihed many times, and it also lubricates the material.
I had the same thoughts. I'd fear that the solvent might reduce the flexibility of the leather and ultimately lead to cracks. I think something like leather oil works just as well. Only that you can buy it off the shelf.
silicone is known to flex, it's not brittle and it's not put on in gobs, it's diluted heavily - so I wouldn't assume without proof that it will have issues.
Silicone is quite flexible. Silicone will stick to silicone. It doesn’t sit on the surface of the material but soaks in. I did this to a leather welding jacket and can’t even tell there’s any silicone on/in it.
Many thanks for this. I just now used it to waterproof my work boots. Nylon ballistic material, and it soaked right in. For the first time that I can remember, I am actually looking forward to getting them wet as a test.
@@RobertLBarnard Not all that well. But in my case, I put the silicone in a pickle jar that was too small, so the mix was too thick to penetrate the material. Glad you reminded me about it; gonna have to transfer it to a larger jar and get the boots ready before the fall season. Gonna have to eat more pickles I suppose! 🥒
Not recommended for cotton canvas since it reduces breathability. I would only use this on synthetics like poly canvas, etc. Canvas experts suggest using water based waterproofing. The mineral spirits used in this video is equivalent to White spirit UK or mineral turpentine in Australia & NZ
In Australia we can buy all three and they're different. White spirits, mineral terpentine. Mineral spirits might be Shellite... I wouldn't use turpentine, it'll never truely dry because some of the fraction has a high boiling point... Plus it'll smell for months!
Going to ask you since you seem like you've done this before. Does the material lose it's fabric soft to the touch texture? If so, by how much... meaning, if I were to do this on a sofa or a shirt, will it make the material uncomfortable enough that you no longer want to sit in the sofa or wear the shirt? Is it sticky/ stiff/ scratchy? Does this crack or wear off over time? if so how long does this last? If apply to cottom, does the cotton no longer look like fabric but more like matte vinyl? Thx hope you can help since the maker of this video doesn't seem to reply. CHEERS!
I use Vaseline on leather and warm it in front of the wood stove until it soaks right in. It works awesome. I put my new leather gloves on and rub Vaseline on them as well.
You should never use mineral spirits, ever. You want a solvent that will evaporate. Acetates are too aggressive. The recommended choice is naphtha. It will dissolve the silicone into solution, penetrate the material and then evaporate leaving the silicone. That's how it's done.
@@lorus511 I am going to experiment with surgical spirit and white spirit to see what options we have for UK. I think mineral spirits are basically meths.
For Australian viewers, use full tube of Selleys Speed Seal 100% Silicone and 700ml Diggers Low Odour Mineral Turpentine. Used very successfully on synthetic canvas motorcycle bags.
That's a cool trick. Does it change the texture of the material at all. Give it a plastic feel? Or does the leave look and feel exactly as it did before the treatment ?
Can you use a mixer maybe on of those paint mixing blade things you put on a drill to mix this? I would like to try this for outdoor furniture cushions I just got, they keep getting soaked even after I sprayed them with the scotch guard stuff.
Imho this should be used only on textiles as tents or outdoor blankets. I think it would be effective and lasting.On the other hand I have read many years ago that silycon cut wrinkles in the leather. So better use boot grease and shoe polish for it. And they must be used properly too.
i could nt easily source 100% pure silicon unless i ordered it online so tried a bog standard 2 year old white silicone in the garage along with ancient old white spirit..Mixed some up quickly and painted it on an old none waterproof raincoat which had long lost any waterproofing ..Amazed to see the really heavy hosepipe I aimed at beading up and dropping off like water off a ducks back. So does it make any difference what % of silicon is used . Mine was the cheapest in the shop
I've used a mix of 50/50% clear paraffin wax (candle 🕯 wax) & toilet ring wax. That works amazingly well on leather boots. It also worked good on the the non leather boot tongue & boot strings. I've never tried on suede, so I'm debating on wax or silicone for my knock off tan military ⚔ boots.
Does the material lose it's fabric soft to the touch texture? If so, by how much... meaning, if I were to do this on a sofa or a shirt, will it make the material uncomfortable enough that you no longer want to sit in the sofa or wear the shirt? Does this crack or wear off over time? if so how long does this last?
@@musicmayer2043 Keep mine in an old plastic saline solution bottle. Don't think it will matter at all, as long as you don't let the mineral spirits evaporate.
There is a solution developed during WWI by the Germans that for me has worked better than anything I have ever used including Mink Oil or Saddle soap. It's called Ballistol and is mixed as follows. One quarter cup Ballistol to three quarters cup water. The Ballistol becomes active in the water and will look like milk. Mix well and spray on leather. The Germans developed this as a water proofing for leather and as a means to protect their metal and wood items. Many shooters use it for cleaning black powder guns as well as modern guns. The water will evaporate and leaves the oils in the Ballistol.
This might be what Meindl (a German bookmaker) sell in their waterproofing solution? It certainly is a milky looking, very runny (almost water like, no viscosity) liquid? I wonder…
@@georgemorley1029 It is very liquid and looks like milk once you add water. My wife found it for me on E bay and I've really been satisfied with the results. Found some black powder guys that use it like spit patch plus to clean the barrels between shots. They call it Moose milk.
Care to elaborate a bit about the Ballistol product? It's a brand over here in Europe and no idea what specific product you bought and used to good effect.
I like this solution. Motorcycle riding pants, shirts, leather items, even weathered birdhouses can be treated with this stuff. Unlike various oils and waxes, this stuff never wears out, it actually plasticizes the object you're painting it on because, like oils it soaks in. But unlike oils, it doesn't evaporate, ever. It stays put and plyable regardless of temperature. It also seems to bind fabric together, making it more durable without stiffening it (like waxes do).
Ok, that was 5 years ago. Over the long term how well did the solution work out? What kind of upkeep did you have to perform? I seen a video in which a guy used crystalized wax, tung oil, tung oil finish, and ???? to make tin pants out of some carhartt pants. I'm wondering if that would even soak in to leather or tennis shoe material. There is an outfit in Australia that makes transformer expedition trailer who soak their canvas in some kind of waterproofing first before building these folding trailers. Here's something else I've been thinking about when you cant afford quality boots. There are all sorts of liquid rubber compounds. I remember vulcanized rubber tire patches. To stretch the life of your cheap boots, could you mop on a rubber compound on your boots then vulcanize the rubber with say a heat gun on high without damaging the boots? I would assume that you would have to put it on in layers including the hollow core soles.
Great DIY. Can make gallons and gallons of this stuff at a fraction the cost of commercial ready to use products. Thanks for sharing. I do wonder though if is there a more natural organic formula?
Fundamental missing thing in this video - remove the laces and pull the tongue out as far as it goes, pay particular attention to the seams attaching the tongue to the boot as well as all the other seams.
Thanks viper.Who would go to this much trouble and neglect the obvious. Possibly some folks are so eager to see themselves on vid blah, blah, blah! Jeeez! Gimmie a break.
Great tip! I was wondering if this solution is also good to use on jackets, gloves, hats and jeans maybe? I plan on using this on my synthetics, canvas, nylon and denim.
Anywhere from 1:1 to 5:1 Spirits to silicone. Does not have to be accurate. Spirits will evaporate. Just depends on how much silicone you want to end up on the surface. Too thin will be too liquidy, less than 1:1 will make it hard for silicone to break up and be more concentrated.
Hi, I would really like to prepare this solution but I was wondering if it was possible to reduce the amount of ingredients since I won't need that much product for what I'm planning to do. Could you tell me what are the proportions of Silicone and Mineral Spirits? Thank you in advance. Great video by the way 👍
Anywhere from 1:1 to 5:1 Spirits to silicone. Does not have to be accurate. Spirits will evaporate. Just depends on how much silicone you want to end up on the surface. Too thin will be too liquidy, less than 1:1 will make it hard for silicone to break up and be more concentrated.
Love the video and your instructions. Will do this!!! Great Video! (The music bed (your music background)was a bit of distracting from your great instructions. A bit too bouncy, as well, if you don't mind the feedback!)
actually add a second valence material and it will keep the leather from cracking.... valence bonding to both! good job on video! edit i put it on my bivy and it withstood a torential rain with only minor dampness...
Be interesting to see how this performs after the boots have flexed for a few decent walks, I suspect the silicone will begin to flake on the surface and ruin the boots.
It soaks into the leather, so I don't see how it could flake off. I suspect that the leather wouldn't breathe afterwards, though. Probably better for waterproofing something like a tarp.
Quick question: I know you shown a waterproof testing with your boots but what about after boots has been worn/ flexing all different parts, still waterproof? Does this solution adapt well to parts of footwear that is constantly flexing or mainly for stationary areas? Thanks
good day. Does this mixture you make freeze afterwards, that is, does the silicone dry out and become flexible? (I will use it for mold removal, that's why I'm asking).
Very good idea. Very much like that it easier than the cooking type waterproofing. FYI: the music is annoying. We came hear to hear you not fight the music. Some of us have hearing difficulties thus to hear and understand you we must fight the music.
FYI: the youtube audio compression algorithm is extremely aggressive, raising background sounds and severely reducing the main louder sound (voices) . it does this after upload, a common problem with youtube videos
I wish that your voice was a little louder, or that your music was a little softer. But otherwise, this video was very helpful. How should we thin out this solution? I would like to use it in a spray bottle. My family has several tents of various sizes and we want to keep them as dry as possible for our camping trip. Most of them are synthetic but we have some canvas gear too. Thanks for sharing ⛺️🥾🎒👟🧢🧤🏕⛱
@@DIYeasycrafts Thanks for your reply. Can you store the excess solution? How do you dispose it if necessary? It seems unsafe for landfills and drains.🤔
This works very good on canvas and any fabric you want waterproof. Just mix it in a larger container and soak the fabric in it, make sure to unfold it and turn itto get even coverage. And the hang to dry.
@DIYeasycrafts, I failed to ask how well the coverage held up. Did it crack/chip/become 'mangy' looking as patches flakedl or wore away? I live in Minneapolis and wet feet can be seriously dangerous in winters where we sit below 15 degrees on average throughout the season. When it's above the melting point, of course that means guaranteed wet feet due to slushy ice melt. I wear military issue Jump Boots, preferably Vietnam issue or earlier- so destroying them with a "hack gone wrong" would not only break my heart- it'd break my bank. I've gone through a pair a year for 25 years, which is confusing to me because from age 16 to 23 I had the same vintage pair that held up great. Now they All-even current brand new issue and new, unworn dead stock vintage crack at the pinky toe to the right of the eyelets. It very well could be that I've been back home in MN since then and the years before were spent in Glenridge, New Jersey, San Francisco and Phoenix where there was never salt on the roads. No matter *What* I do~ neatsfoot oil, mink oil, lanolin or a variation of all mentioned coddled gently into a beeswax fusion that is good for both bare hands And booted feet~ they still crack right there. The right is always first and always far worse. The massive pile of combat boots I have in the basement will vouch for this because I can't seem to bring myself to throw such beloved objects I've spent 365 days with away!! If you have any ideas on what to do with them, please let me know! :) This very moment my right boot is missing two literal Chunks in this area due to a failed glue job made from JB Weld 8276 Kwik Weld, adjusting the compounds to meet flexibility needs. [Indeed, I Do know better but I was desperate and I had a concept-that failed.] I feel like there should be a way to fuse leather to itself by shredding the edges of the split then reintegrating the fibers as one once dry. One day I'll figure it out, but as it is I am working with this particularly damaged pair that can't handle any more debacles. What have you found with time? Of course there's NO going back after shellacking Anything porous with silicone, so this is something I can't afford to find out the hard way with. I know you said those were old, so there may be a chance that they didn't get the usage I'd need for comparing year round daily wear, but who better to ask than you?! Also, as far as emulsifying goes, I have a Turbo hand mixer that I use for non-food projects only. This has been invaluable to me countless times! If cleaning the beaters becomes impossible you can buy universal replacements online for $12 or less. I highly recommend going to a thrift store and getting one for your tool room collection. You won't regret it!! In this case I'd pop one out and just use one beater to get this job done in seconds. The only downfall might be that you'd have to wait for a bit to let the bubbles settle but if you used a sponge brush or rag that wouldn't be an issue at all. Now, if only they would make kitchen beaters cordless... {They'd call it a modified drill with a beater bit, I guess! Haha!} Thanks for reading and I look forward to your reply. I have all materials on hand already so I'll get right to it as soon as I hear back!
It seems to me the reason why Your boots break the same way so consistently is how You walk and/or Your anatomy is, and the main wear focuses on the same spot (besides them being quite old boots in the first place). To how You can repair them, have You tried talking to a shoemaker? There's certain glues that work quite well, but I don't know what's available in Your area nor the exact damage, condition and leather type, so I'd say that'd be Your best shot.
The best ratio is 8 parts Naptha or Mineral Spirits to 1 part clear silicone. I've turned regular bed sheets into wood pile tarps. Works great.
Great idea!
Great,thanks, exactly what I need to do
Thanks for the ratios I figure you improved upon what was described! Oh is the 1 part Silicone the 1 entire tube?
@@CBReal1290whatever u use to measure that’s the “part”.
Ex….if u used one cup to pour in the solvent (8x’s), then u use that same cup or amount to measure the silicone (1x) 8 to 1 ratio.
@@CBReal1290whatever u use to measure that’s the “part”.
Ex….if u used one cup to pour in the solvent (8x’s), then u use that same cup or amount to measure the silicone (1x) 8 to 1 ratio.
On my duster, a long, cotton coat, I warmed about a liter of petroleum jelly until it was melted, and mixed it with about equal of just regular charcoal lighter fluid.
I unbuttoned and unzipped everything, and used a spray bottle to soak the outer layers.
I did this while it was layed out in the sun, and when it had sufficiently dried, I did it again.
I also did this to a cotton wide-brim hat at the same time.
Quite water repellant, and I can do it again in the future if needed.
I would imagine a leather boot treated with this would not breathe at all. That would mean I would sweat much quicker. Sounds like a trade-off. Also it would probably take a long time for the boot to dry out properly if it did got wet after long exposure to water. Please let me know what you think or experience. Great video thanks for posting.
I read the warning description and i wouldnt use mineral spirits like this. On warning label it says in case contact with skin wash with soap and water. So after making this repellant and coating shoes and allowed dry , if water is applied then some does water gets through shoe possibly mixed with these chemicals getting on foot skin surface. I dont think i want to try this because it might cause more problems . But definitely maybe for a homemade repellant for tents, backpack , tarp, possibly .
Definitely not a trade off. If your cranking out miles yes, your feet are gonna sweat. Key is a second pair of liners and socks to swap out, preferably near a water source so you can rinse out the sweat (salt) and dangle off your pack etc. to dry thoroughly. Did 18 miles and 2 passes in the Sierras one looong day and rinsed socks three times, arrived at camp with no blisters!!
It is the same as wearing a waterproof boot such as with goretex, which yes your feet will sweat. Don't wear waterproof boots in the summer unless you absolutely have to.
@@sammyhooligan803 would melt polyester
@@username8171 goretex is breathable, I hike in summer with goretex shoes and don't sweat much more than in winter
First, you want to clean the object you are going to seal. For leather follow the best method for your type of boots, skipping any soaps with oils. You can however, add any types of dyes and scuff covers etc. Once fully dry then add this last waterproofing step. Always remove your laces before doing any work on your boots.
Just curious why remove the laces? I was thinking about leaving them in and waterproofing them along with the shoes, sneakers and boots. ?
@mas1582 when i treat my boots, I always apply the treatment to the laces, as well.
I use Pecards on my Danners.
Well that beats the heck out of using Poisoness Telflon to water proof raincoats and shoes. Your new method is is brilliant :)
You don't think mineral spirits are poisonous?
@@alan4sure In contrast to PFAS the mineral spirits evaporate and don't bioaccumulate. If you don't want to use mineral spirits you could also use isopropanol aka rubbing alcohol
Ingredients: ~1 qt (946 ml) Odourless Mineral Spirits (aka White Spirit or Mineral Turpentine) to 100% Clear Silicone ~2.6 oz (1 tube, 83ml). Mix anywhere from 1:1 to 3:1... does not have to be exact since mineral spirits will evaporate after application. Need mixing container and paint brush (cleaned out with mineral spirits when done).
THANK YOU! I was wondering what the overall ratio of the mixture is.
Thank you for the translation!
But he says half a quart of mineral spirit, not one full quart. So if the silicone tube content is 83ml, as you indicate, the ratio would be 6:1, right?
Isn't white spirit highly flammable?????😮
@@MJWINNER_Sketchbook999 all hydrocarbon compounds are flammable
I'm watching this in 2022. How did the waterproofing last?? Did you try it in wet grass, walking in puddles of water or in ankle deep snow for extended periods?? I didn't see any follow up. How did this work over a period of several weeks or months or a year or two?? Looks like a terrific idea. Thanks for sharing. Ax
I personally did this on my boots 3 years ago. It held up incredibly for the first 2 years and then I kind of forgot that I had done it in the first place so I'd give it two Canadian Winters.
Thank you very much! I have spent a lot of money on those waterproof sprays and this looks like a much more effective and cheaper method.
You are welcome!
I wonder how long it lasts? I imagine constant flexing of the boot at the usual places will eventually crack the silicone, losing its waterproofing. Nothing will remove or stick to cured silicone, so it cant be replenished. The beauty of beeswax and similar stuff, is that it readily redissolves and can be replensihed many times, and it also lubricates the material.
I had the same thoughts. I'd fear that the solvent might reduce the flexibility of the leather and ultimately lead to cracks. I think something like leather oil works just as well. Only that you can buy it off the shelf.
silicone is known to flex, it's not brittle and it's not put on in gobs, it's diluted heavily - so I wouldn't assume without proof that it will have issues.
Silicone is quite flexible. Silicone will stick to silicone. It doesn’t sit on the surface of the material but soaks in.
I did this to a leather welding jacket and can’t even tell there’s any silicone on/in it.
Many thanks for this. I just now used it to waterproof my work boots. Nylon ballistic material, and it soaked right in. For the first time that I can remember, I am actually looking forward to getting them wet as a test.
Great to hear!
How'd it work out?
@@RobertLBarnard
Not all that well. But in my case, I put the silicone in a pickle jar that was too small, so the mix was too thick to penetrate the material.
Glad you reminded me about it; gonna have to transfer it to a larger jar and get the boots ready before the fall season.
Gonna have to eat more pickles I suppose! 🥒
Not recommended for cotton canvas since it reduces breathability. I would only use this on synthetics like poly canvas, etc. Canvas experts suggest using water based waterproofing. The mineral spirits used in this video is equivalent to White spirit UK or mineral turpentine in Australia & NZ
In Australia we can buy all three and they're different. White spirits, mineral terpentine. Mineral spirits might be Shellite... I wouldn't use turpentine, it'll never truely dry because some of the fraction has a high boiling point... Plus it'll smell for months!
Going to ask you since you seem like you've done this before. Does the material lose it's fabric soft to the touch texture? If so, by how much... meaning, if I were to do this on a sofa or a shirt, will it make the material uncomfortable enough that you no longer want to sit in the sofa or wear the shirt? Is it sticky/ stiff/ scratchy? Does this crack or wear off over time? if so how long does this last? If apply to cottom, does the cotton no longer look like fabric but more like matte vinyl?
Thx hope you can help since the maker of this video doesn't seem to reply. CHEERS!
@@ArtWars314 it might make the material smell like turps, or an oil paint washing up rag.
use naptha instead no smell
no. it's methylated spirit in uk
I use Vaseline on leather and warm it in front of the wood stove until it soaks right in. It works awesome. I put my new leather gloves on and rub Vaseline on them as well.
It has to be warmed!
I used Vaseline on leather shoes but dirt from walking on grass/trail stuck to & discoloured the leather.
I melt bees wax and olive oil and stir the mixture while it cools. It is a nice thick even paste that I can rub in to leather.
How's it affected the leather over time?
Quick and to the point! Thank you
You should never use mineral spirits, ever.
You want a solvent that will evaporate.
Acetates are too aggressive.
The recommended choice is naphtha. It will dissolve the silicone into solution, penetrate the material and then evaporate leaving the silicone.
That's how it's done.
Mineral spirits do completely evaporate.
Im looking forward to your video!
I find in the UK at least, that naphtha is very hard to obtain and very very expensive which therefore makes the whole object of DIY not worthwhile.
@@lorus511 I am going to experiment with surgical spirit and white spirit to see what options we have for UK. I think mineral spirits are basically meths.
@@TobyRobertsThe Good idea, let me know how you get on
Ty for showing this im gonna do my storm chasing cloths so when we go out chasing we wont b that wet.
Trying to make my hair waterproof. Thanks for the vid it worked well!
Lol why
Yes
Holy cow! I wonder how this would work on crafts that would want to go outside! Worth a try Thanks!
Crafts have self determination?
For Australian viewers, use full tube of Selleys Speed Seal 100% Silicone and 700ml Diggers Low Odour Mineral Turpentine. Used very successfully on synthetic canvas motorcycle bags.
Thanks for the translation
LOL
Thank you bytestream
. That's an awesome help :)
Did it change the colour?
Is it very durable? I have a canvas tent I was thinking of waterproofing, do you think it would work?
Thanks for showing this... Can i ask for the ratio of the solution... Deeply appreciated
Cool, waterproof laces.
I did this tonight on my work boots. Thank you for this video
You're so welcome!
how long does this last?
That's a cool trick. Does it change the texture of the material at all. Give it a plastic feel? Or does the leave look and feel exactly as it did before the treatment ?
It can be spray with spray bottle?
Can you use a mixer maybe on of those paint mixing blade things you put on a drill to mix this?
I would like to try this for outdoor furniture cushions I just got, they keep getting soaked even after I sprayed them with the scotch guard stuff.
White gas is great for dissolving silicone and evaporates very well and does not included xylene and other additives that are carcinogenic.
I'm going to make my dog waterproof
Great anti-perspirant, too :)
@E So did the dog 😂
(Inb4 anyone thinks I didn't get that the other comment is a joke lol, my comment is also a joke)
What the????????? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I can't breathe
HAHAHA! great idea... cats too, since they hate to bath!
This recipe is only enough for a chihuahua
Imho this should be used only on textiles as tents or outdoor blankets. I think it would be effective and lasting.On the other hand I have read many years ago that silycon cut wrinkles in the leather. So better use boot grease and shoe polish for it. And they must be used properly too.
I work with a light spray of water sometimes and it a pain to change boots constantly look forward to trying it out thanx
Hello, do you think that clear silicone caulk could work instead of 100% silicone?
i could nt easily source 100% pure silicon unless i ordered it online so tried a bog standard 2 year old white silicone in the garage along with ancient old white spirit..Mixed some up quickly and painted it on an old none waterproof raincoat which had long lost any waterproofing ..Amazed to see the really heavy hosepipe I aimed at beading up and dropping off like water off a ducks back.
So does it make any difference what % of silicon is used . Mine was the cheapest in the shop
I've used a mix of 50/50% clear paraffin wax (candle 🕯 wax) & toilet ring wax. That works amazingly well on leather boots. It also worked good on the the non leather boot tongue & boot strings.
I've never tried on suede, so I'm debating on wax or silicone for my knock off tan military ⚔ boots.
Wow, thanks for this tip! I can do this immediately!!!
Use naptha not mineral spirits.
Thank you for sharing I love idea.
You are so welcome!
Outstanding behaviour and thank you Sir, big up from England.
Will try this on my old ADV boots, thanks for the tip
Go for it!
Great video! This is super useful
Good to know. I use snow seal or mink oil or Vaseline . This is good to know as well 👍👍
very nice idea. thanks!
Glad you like it!
Does the material lose it's fabric soft to the touch texture? If so, by how much... meaning, if I were to do this on a sofa or a shirt, will it make the material uncomfortable enough that you no longer want to sit in the sofa or wear the shirt? Does this crack or wear off over time? if so how long does this last?
@@Automedon2 I'm not using it as a shirt
can you save the balance in a sealed jar? Will it keep for re-use later? If so, how long will it keep?
Yes you can. I use this for sealing windows etc. on my boat. The mixture I keep in an old solution bottle is about 2 years old now & still works fine.
@@tonyodonnell9655 Thanks... In what kind of container? does it matter if it is plastic or glass?
@@musicmayer2043 Keep mine in an old plastic saline solution bottle. Don't think it will matter at all, as long as you don't let the mineral spirits evaporate.
How long can you keep the remaining solution for?
Put a couple marbles in the container to help mix when you shake.
Keep in mind that it is possible for the mineral spirits to weaken the adhesives used in gluing the soles of the boot to the leather. YMMV.
If you have boots worth it they don't just use glue they also use nails or screws
There is a solution developed during WWI by the Germans that for me has worked better than anything I have ever used including Mink Oil or Saddle soap. It's called Ballistol and is mixed as follows. One quarter cup Ballistol to three quarters cup water. The Ballistol becomes active in the water and will look like milk. Mix well and spray on leather. The Germans developed this as a water proofing for leather and as a means to protect their metal and wood items. Many shooters use it for cleaning black powder guns as well as modern guns. The water will evaporate and leaves the oils in the Ballistol.
This might be what Meindl (a German bookmaker) sell in their waterproofing solution? It certainly is a milky looking, very runny (almost water like, no viscosity) liquid? I wonder…
@@georgemorley1029 It is very liquid and looks like milk once you add water. My wife found it for me on E bay and I've really been satisfied with the results. Found some black powder guys that use it like spit patch plus to clean the barrels between shots. They call it Moose milk.
no petroleum cousins
Balistol is a brand, so which actual product did you use?
Care to elaborate a bit about the Ballistol product? It's a brand over here in Europe and no idea what specific product you bought and used to good effect.
I like this solution. Motorcycle riding pants, shirts, leather items, even weathered birdhouses can be treated with this stuff.
Unlike various oils and waxes, this stuff never wears out, it actually plasticizes the object you're painting it on because, like oils it soaks in. But unlike oils, it doesn't evaporate, ever.
It stays put and plyable regardless of temperature. It also seems to bind fabric together, making it more durable without stiffening it (like waxes do).
Thank you so so much for sharing! This is amazing!
Ok, that was 5 years ago. Over the long term how well did the solution work out?
What kind of upkeep did you have to perform?
I seen a video in which a guy used crystalized wax, tung oil, tung oil finish, and ???? to make tin pants out of some carhartt pants. I'm wondering if that would even soak in to leather or tennis shoe material.
There is an outfit in Australia that makes transformer expedition trailer who soak their canvas in some kind of waterproofing first before building these folding trailers.
Here's something else I've been thinking about when you cant afford quality boots. There are all sorts of liquid rubber compounds. I remember vulcanized rubber tire patches.
To stretch the life of your cheap boots, could you mop on a rubber compound on your boots then vulcanize the rubber with say a heat gun on high without damaging the boots? I would assume that you would have to put it on in layers including the hollow core soles.
Thank you for making this
Can that waterproof solution withstand chlorine at the pool? Can it also work with stretch fabrics?
Excellent idea!
Great DIY. Can make gallons and gallons of this stuff at a fraction the cost of commercial ready to use products. Thanks for sharing. I do wonder though if is there a more natural organic formula?
Thanks I got several pairs of old motorcycle boots , I will give it a try thank you much 😀 😊 👍 SWEET AND SIMPLE
Glad you like them!
Fundamental missing thing in this video - remove the laces and pull the tongue out as far as it goes, pay particular attention to the seams attaching the tongue to the boot as well as all the other seams.
Thanks viper.Who would go to this much trouble and neglect the obvious. Possibly some folks are so eager to see themselves on vid blah, blah, blah! Jeeez! Gimmie a break.
Thanks mister i like the idea so much
I wonder if it will work with a spray bottle?
Great tip! I was wondering if this solution is also good to use on jackets, gloves, hats and jeans maybe? I plan on using this on my synthetics, canvas, nylon and denim.
Did you ever figure this out^?
Great video and great information
Is this permanent or does it wash off overtime? Does this solution work on smooth surfaces as well metal plastic faux leather on sofas ???
The mineral spirit doesn't affect the leather?
Does someone know the best equasion between both the silicone and minerals?
Anywhere from 1:1 to 5:1 Spirits to silicone. Does not have to be accurate. Spirits will evaporate. Just depends on how much silicone you want to end up on the surface. Too thin will be too liquidy, less than 1:1 will make it hard for silicone to break up and be more concentrated.
Good idea but does the material you coat remain breathable?
I think they become tottaly unbreathable like galosh, rain boots.
Hi, I would really like to prepare this solution but I was wondering if it was possible to reduce the amount of ingredients since I won't need that much product for what I'm planning to do. Could you tell me what are the proportions of Silicone and Mineral Spirits? Thank you in advance.
Great video by the way 👍
Gio Dimo 5:1 ratio.
Anywhere from 1:1 to 5:1 Spirits to silicone. Does not have to be accurate. Spirits will evaporate. Just depends on how much silicone you want to end up on the surface. Too thin will be too liquidy, less than 1:1 will make it hard for silicone to break up and be more concentrated.
Love the video and your instructions. Will do this!!! Great Video! (The music bed (your music background)was a bit of distracting from your great instructions. A bit too bouncy, as well, if you don't mind the feedback!)
Love the feedback. This one was done years ago. Check out any of the new videos I got rid of the music and tried to improve quality of image
Can this solution be applied on newly painted exterior wall?
LOL
Can you use this solution with motorcycle leather saddlebags? Will it not ruin the leathers finish?
Try at your own risk. I have only used it on old boots. Was more concerned about wet feet
Wonder if it will be possible to reimpregnate later with something else - like wax - after using this silicone
I want to do this to some of my old bed sheets how long does the waterproofing last ?
Hi , can i use paint thinner ?
Can this be applied to bags?
What about shoelaces, can you coat that as well, ?? Very important
Outstanding buddy!! Thx for the info🙃👍✌
No problem 👍
-Did the boots hold up to real outdoor usage? The bucket test is cool and all but I am curious if it held up.
I do this too... I used it on umbrella, backpacks, tent...
actually add a second valence material and it will keep the leather from cracking....
valence bonding to both!
good job on video!
edit i put it on my bivy and it withstood a torential rain with only minor dampness...
Be interesting to see how this performs after the boots have flexed for a few decent walks, I suspect the silicone will begin to flake on the surface and ruin the boots.
It soaks into the leather, so I don't see how it could flake off. I suspect that the leather wouldn't breathe afterwards, though. Probably better for waterproofing something like a tarp.
of course it gonna flake off , i never own a waterproof stuff that last, even military grade ....
It soaks in and doesn’t flake off.
Quick question:
I know you shown a waterproof testing with your boots but what about after boots has been worn/ flexing all different parts, still waterproof?
Does this solution adapt well to parts of footwear that is constantly flexing or mainly for stationary areas?
Thanks
good day. Does this mixture you make freeze afterwards, that is, does the silicone dry out and become flexible? (I will use it for mold removal, that's why I'm asking).
Very good idea. Very much like that it easier than the cooking type waterproofing.
FYI: the music is annoying. We came hear to hear you not fight the music. Some of us have hearing difficulties thus to hear and understand you we must fight the music.
FYI: the youtube audio compression algorithm is extremely aggressive, raising background sounds and severely reducing the main louder sound (voices) . it does this after upload, a common problem with youtube videos
Czn i do that on tennis shoes?
I would really have no idea
I wish that your voice was a little louder, or that your music was a little softer. But otherwise, this video was very helpful. How should we thin out this solution? I would like to use it in a spray bottle. My family has several tents of various sizes and we want to keep them as dry as possible for our camping trip. Most of them are synthetic but we have some canvas gear too. Thanks for sharing ⛺️🥾🎒👟🧢🧤🏕⛱
Noted!
@@DIYeasycrafts Thanks for your reply. Can you store the excess solution? How do you dispose it if necessary? It seems unsafe for landfills and drains.🤔
@@SuperSaltydog77 thanks, I’ll search on Google.👍
youtube has a very agressive compression algorithm that makes background volume equal to voice
This works very good on canvas and any fabric you want waterproof. Just mix it in a larger container and soak the fabric in it, make sure to unfold it and turn itto get even coverage. And the hang to dry.
What are the longer term ramifications to the leather with using the solvent? Surely it would damage the leather?
Well done!
Does soaking the laces seperately make them waterproof too? When my laces get wet from snow, they take a while to dry.
Your waterproofing is it breathable and dose it rot the material it's used on?
So what's the most effective ratio of silicone to mineral spirits?
will this work on coats bro
can you make this a spray
@DIYeasycrafts, I failed to ask how well the coverage held up. Did it crack/chip/become 'mangy' looking as patches flakedl or wore away? I live in Minneapolis and wet feet can be seriously dangerous in winters where we sit below 15 degrees on average throughout the season. When it's above the melting point, of course that means guaranteed wet feet due to slushy ice melt. I wear military issue Jump Boots, preferably Vietnam issue or earlier- so destroying them with a "hack gone wrong" would not only break my heart- it'd break my bank. I've gone through a pair a year for 25 years, which is confusing to me because from age 16 to 23 I had the same vintage pair that held up great. Now they All-even current brand new issue and new, unworn dead stock vintage crack at the pinky toe to the right of the eyelets. It very well could be that I've been back home in MN since then and the years before were spent in Glenridge, New Jersey, San Francisco and Phoenix where there was never salt on the roads.
No matter *What* I do~ neatsfoot oil, mink oil, lanolin or a variation of all mentioned coddled gently into a beeswax fusion that is good for both bare hands And booted feet~ they still crack right there. The right is always first and always far worse. The massive pile of combat boots I have in the basement will vouch for this because I can't seem to bring myself to throw such beloved objects I've spent 365 days with away!! If you have any ideas on what to do with them, please let me know! :)
This very moment my right boot is missing two literal Chunks in this area due to a failed glue job made from JB Weld 8276 Kwik Weld, adjusting the compounds to meet flexibility needs. [Indeed, I Do know better but I was desperate and I had a concept-that failed.] I feel like there should be a way to fuse leather to itself by shredding the edges of the split then reintegrating the fibers as one once dry. One day I'll figure it out, but as it is I am working with this particularly damaged pair that can't handle any more debacles. What have you found with time? Of course there's NO going back after shellacking Anything porous with silicone, so this is something I can't afford to find out the hard way with. I know you said those were old, so there may be a chance that they didn't get the usage I'd need for comparing year round daily wear, but who better to ask than you?!
Also, as far as emulsifying goes, I have a Turbo hand mixer that I use for non-food projects only. This has been invaluable to me countless times! If cleaning the beaters becomes impossible you can buy universal replacements online for $12 or less. I highly recommend going to a thrift store and getting one for your tool room collection. You won't regret it!! In this case I'd pop one out and just use one beater to get this job done in seconds. The only downfall might be that you'd have to wait for a bit to let the bubbles settle but if you used a sponge brush or rag that wouldn't be an issue at all. Now, if only they would make kitchen beaters cordless... {They'd call it a modified drill with a beater bit, I guess! Haha!}
Thanks for reading and I look forward to your reply. I have all materials on hand already so I'll get right to it as soon as I hear back!
It seems to me the reason why Your boots break the same way so consistently is how You walk and/or Your anatomy is, and the main wear focuses on the same spot (besides them being quite old boots in the first place).
To how You can repair them, have You tried talking to a shoemaker?
There's certain glues that work quite well, but I don't know what's available in Your area nor the exact damage, condition and leather type, so I'd say that'd be Your best shot.
Can we spray this?
yes but it really should soak in
How long would this method last?
very cool
Can this be used on acrylic paint decorated planters
No iI do not think so
Does the solution disintegrate the leather etc?
Can I spray it?
as long as it gets soaked
Would this work for a canvas soft top car ?
I heard that silicone isn't good for leather long term.
?