Underrated video. Thank you much, sir! I'm changing the brakes (and the fluid) when I change the oil pretty soon! (4 wheel drive car... not a front wheel drive).
Weird. Watching this is 2024, and the temperatures are about the same. Great video! Thanks for posting! Update: I'm at the part where your daughter is changing the other one. Superb video, really. Props on being a good dad, too. God bless you, man! 👍🏻
Some corrections I would suggest: 1. You could use the old brake pads as a uniform surface for the clamps instead of going into the piston chamber and that would have pressed both pistons evenly and less likely to cause damage to the caliper/pistons 2. grease all contact points so there is less vibration or brake noise 3. use a rubber mallet not a metal one when hitting against one of the most important parts of your car, the thing that stops it!!
Bro, this was an EXCELLENT video! Thank you sir for being precise and taking your time for a newbie like me. You’re gonna save me hundreds of dollars. Great job explaining everything and I even give you more credit for doing it out in that crazy heat. Thank you again!
Great video Bob. I just checked on my noisy breaks. If I would have taken it to the dealer it would have surely cost $400+. You have some hatters, but the best thing I learned is that I did not need any special tools to get this done. It was good for the initial research. Thank you so much.
Another helpful tip for putting the hub cap back on: do this before putting your lug nuts back on. On a some vehicles, the lug nut is designed to help hold the center of the cap on. I can say from experience than the nuts are enough to hold the cap on if the retention ring is missing or broken.
She really loves working in this field and hopes to eventually take over the business. She's a bit shy at learning some of the jobs because she knows we are under time constraints a lot of the time. We are booked for months in advance and she knows if we don't complete a job in the allotted time it throws off the schedule which is not something we can afford as we usually have zero wiggle room. She will do more and more as times goes on and she becomes faster at things. Shes awesome at painting, flooring, cement work, some electrical, but needs improvement in drywall repair. Thanks for commenting, Cheers, Bob
Nice, thorough video. I got to change my pads soon on my 18’ and feel fully equipped with the knowledge to do so now! Just need to get a c-clamp and I’m all set. Two thumbs up on the vid 👍🏼
I think the metal tab on the bottom of the pad wasn't in right. I'm pretty sure the tab gets put into the pad guide instead of pushing against the caliper bracket and pushing the pad out at the bottom.
@@NicolasCageIsActuallyARobot interesting... Guess someone put mine on wrong. When I took mine apart the tab was in the slide track. I assumed, because it was at the bottom, that it was meant to avoid pad chatter by holding the pad against the top of the bracket, the direction they're forced when applying the brakes. The car was certified pre-owned with 3,200 miles when I bought it so I'm not sure what work would have been done to the brakes by then but good to know. I installed them how I found them and haven't had a problem yet but I guess I need to get some new pads correct it.
Brad, thanks for your comment and yes, I like the way the Subaru's handle and the fuel mileage is awesome as well. The only negative thing I know about these Subaru's is the fact that around 90,000 miles the head gaskets usually fail. Good luck, drive safely and we're glad you liked the video.
@@BobsHomeServicesLLC Mr Subaru on RUclips, said it's the 2.5 that has the head gasket problem. He also suggested a transmission fluid change, every 30k miles per Subaru of Japan on the CVT.
A good video Bob. The one thing that I could see that bothers me is the c-clamp usage for pushing the pistons. Maybe next time, considering using a piece of wood with the c-clamp to push them down at the same time. Great video otherwise. Couldn't have done it better myself.
First of all, you shouldn't hit the caliper with a hammer. if you know how brakes work, you will know to simply force the caliper over with a screwdriver or prybar to move the piston(s) back, then the caliper will fall off. Subaru is Japanese. They don't use imperial sizing. 9/16' is a 14mm. Never put a C-clamp into the back of the piston. Put an old brake pad on the pistons. That way you push both back at the same time. No grease on slider pins. No cleaning of the sliding surfaces of the pad ears. I'm sure his daughter was impressed though.
Thanks for the information as] too many people are being scared away by the dealers and mechanics when the principles are exactly the same as a car 20+ years older. One question, how do you know if you have a warped rotor or if there to scratched? and/or have a caliper issue, other than if your brakes shudder from a higher speed to low speed?
I'm not an auto mechanic and so I wouldn't be able to know by looking at it as I'm quite sure you need a computerized machine, but if I hit the breaks and feel anything but a slowing vehicle, then I would either change my rotor or have it sent out to be repaired first as that is the lower cost alternative and if that didn't work then I would be looking at the master cylinder, break lines and caliper. Cheers, Bob
oh no she is a 2 footed driver it looks like... and always throw a jack stand under the car. if you notice he said he wasnt going to get under there but he did many times
isn't the impreza all wheel drive and not front wheel drive like you said and doesn't it use metric bolts and not the standard 9/16ths bolt you quoted also shouldn't you compress both caliper pistons at the same time when you do it individually with a c clamp instead of using an old brake pad to push them in simultaneously. just wondering because i am new to subaru (2017 Subaru impreza 2.0i sport with torque vectoring cvt) and i would not want to mess up my brakes by watching your tutorial. please just acknowledge my questions as i have learned or heard differently from i suspect none subaru owners or wannabe mechanics
I have always done it this way and I’ve never had a problem but I’m not a mechanic; Im a home improvement contractor who was fixing his daughters brakes. Your best too ask someone who does it professionally. The socket sizes I mentioned fit her car without issue. It sounds like you may have more experience with the fine details but all I know is I’ve been changing brakes the same way for thirty years and for thirty years it’s been the same for me.
Yes for metric, yes AWD, no it doesn't really matter if you do the pistons individually with a car like this that only has two per side. If you were working on a vehicle that has more then 2 pistons, I'd say use a piece of wood with the c-clamp to compress them at the same time. Source: a mechanic.
@@Sjh1138 no there're not. Common misconception. While it's not Common for a Subaru to be 2wd, they are out there. I was under the same impression that they were only 4wd, had a couple of imprezzas come into shop that were only fwd, not awd
Thanks, how do they hold up over time? I've heard some people say one should only be using OEM brakes but I've never been into cars enough to actually test that theory.
Underrated video. Thank you much, sir! I'm changing the brakes (and the fluid) when I change the oil pretty soon! (4 wheel drive car... not a front wheel drive).
Weird. Watching this is 2024, and the temperatures are about the same. Great video! Thanks for posting!
Update: I'm at the part where your daughter is changing the other one. Superb video, really. Props on being a good dad, too. God bless you, man! 👍🏻
Some corrections I would suggest:
1. You could use the old brake pads as a uniform surface for the clamps instead of going into the piston chamber and that would have pressed both pistons evenly and less likely to cause damage to the caliper/pistons
2. grease all contact points so there is less vibration or brake noise
3. use a rubber mallet not a metal one when hitting against one of the most important parts of your car, the thing that stops it!!
Don’t forget to always grease your contact points on the back side of the pads along with lubing the pin that goes into the boot for the caliper
Yes that’s correct. Unfortunately I forgot to do that however, that car was traded in already, lol
Bro, this was an EXCELLENT video! Thank you sir for being precise and taking your time for a newbie like me. You’re gonna save me hundreds of dollars. Great job explaining everything and I even give you more credit for doing it out in that crazy heat. Thank you again!
Great video Bob. I just checked on my noisy breaks. If I would have taken it to the dealer it would have surely cost $400+. You have some hatters, but the best thing I learned is that I did not need any special tools to get this done. It was good for the initial research. Thank you so much.
Great, glad the video helped you out. DIY is a great way to save moola. :) Stay dry!
Another helpful tip for putting the hub cap back on: do this before putting your lug nuts back on. On a some vehicles, the lug nut is designed to help hold the center of the cap on. I can say from experience than the nuts are enough to hold the cap on if the retention ring is missing or broken.
Really fun to see you working with your daughter and she actually did the work on camera!
She really loves working in this field and hopes to eventually take over the business. She's a bit shy at learning some of the jobs because she knows we are under time constraints a lot of the time. We are booked for months in advance and she knows if we don't complete a job in the allotted time it throws off the schedule which is not something we can afford as we usually have zero wiggle room. She will do more and more as times goes on and she becomes faster at things. Shes awesome at painting, flooring, cement work, some electrical, but needs improvement in drywall repair.
Thanks for commenting,
Cheers,
Bob
Love it! My Dad taught me and on and on it goes. She could make an easy $50K a year as a mechanic. Just fantastic!
Great video! got my 19 impreza's front brake pads changed today! thanks for the helpful video
Nice, thorough video. I got to change my pads soon on my 18’ and feel fully equipped with the knowledge to do so now! Just need to get a c-clamp and I’m all set. Two thumbs up on the vid 👍🏼
Did you try using a 14mm socket? @5:00 @5:45
I think the metal tab on the bottom of the pad wasn't in right. I'm pretty sure the tab gets put into the pad guide instead of pushing against the caliper bracket and pushing the pad out at the bottom.
According to the factory service manual, this is a pad return spring. The way he installed it was correct.
@@NicolasCageIsActuallyARobot interesting... Guess someone put mine on wrong. When I took mine apart the tab was in the slide track. I assumed, because it was at the bottom, that it was meant to avoid pad chatter by holding the pad against the top of the bracket, the direction they're forced when applying the brakes. The car was certified pre-owned with 3,200 miles when I bought it so I'm not sure what work would have been done to the brakes by then but good to know. I installed them how I found them and haven't had a problem yet but I guess I need to get some new pads correct it.
Instead of using a hammer use a large screwdriver to wedge in between the piston on top and push piston back in a little. It will come right off.
I have a 2018 Impreza sport sedan. First Subaru. Nice cars guys. Thanks for the video, and helping us all.
Brad, thanks for your comment and yes, I like the way the Subaru's handle and the fuel mileage is awesome as well. The only negative thing I know about these Subaru's is the fact that around 90,000 miles the head gaskets usually fail.
Good luck, drive safely and we're glad you liked the video.
@@BobsHomeServicesLLC
Mr Subaru on RUclips, said it's the 2.5 that has the head gasket problem. He also suggested a transmission fluid change, every 30k miles per Subaru of Japan on the CVT.
@@bradq2769 Every Subaru I’ve had or been around has experienced head gasket issues. Maybe I’m just lucky. Lol
Use the old brakes shoe on the front pistons and clamp them back in at one time together
I was going to get charged $700 for change of brakes at the dealership. Thanks for the video !
To be clear, $700 at the dealer would be for replacing rotors as well. Then again, a dealership usually won't just replace pads.
To depress dual pistons or even a single, use the old brake pad then clamp. Assures even depression and prevents possible damage to the piston itself.
A good video Bob. The one thing that I could see that bothers me is the c-clamp usage for pushing the pistons. Maybe next time, considering using a piece of wood with the c-clamp to push them down at the same time. Great video otherwise. Couldn't have done it better myself.
I’ve used c-clamps without wood since 1985 without an incident. Wood would be a good idea, I’m just old school lol
I say it mostly because it saves time by pushing the pistons down together at the same time, but eh, to each their own. Again, great video
@@Megidramon Thanks for sharing your tip as well. Always good to have engaged viewers that care to share :)
thanks, bob.
First of all, you shouldn't hit the caliper with a hammer. if you know how brakes work, you will know to simply force the caliper over with a screwdriver or prybar to move the piston(s) back, then the caliper will fall off. Subaru is Japanese. They don't use imperial sizing. 9/16' is a 14mm. Never put a C-clamp into the back of the piston. Put an old brake pad on the pistons. That way you push both back at the same time. No grease on slider pins. No cleaning of the sliding surfaces of the pad ears. I'm sure his daughter was impressed though.
Thanks for the information as] too many people are being scared away by the dealers and mechanics when the principles are exactly the same as a car 20+ years older. One question, how do you know if you have a warped rotor or if there to scratched? and/or have a caliper issue, other than if your brakes shudder from a higher speed to low speed?
I'm not an auto mechanic and so I wouldn't be able to know by looking at it as I'm quite sure you need a computerized machine, but if I hit the breaks and feel anything but a slowing vehicle, then I would either change my rotor or have it sent out to be repaired first as that is the lower cost alternative and if that didn't work then I would be looking at the master cylinder, break lines and caliper.
Cheers,
Bob
oh no she is a 2 footed driver it looks like... and always throw a jack stand under the car. if you notice
he said he wasnt going to get under there but he did many times
one more thing i would suggest is take off all your jewelry before you start
Please do not hit a caliper with a HAMMER! use a large flat head screwdriver to pry it off. You don't want to replace the caliper too.
No parking brake special tool or anything on the rears?
goodjob🙏🙏🙏
Hey, thank you
isn't the impreza all wheel drive and not front wheel drive like you said and doesn't it use metric bolts and not the standard 9/16ths bolt you quoted also shouldn't you compress both caliper pistons at the same time when you do it individually with a c clamp instead of using an old brake pad to push them in simultaneously. just wondering because i am new to subaru (2017 Subaru impreza 2.0i sport with torque vectoring cvt) and i would not want to mess up my brakes by watching your tutorial. please just acknowledge my questions as i have learned or heard differently from i suspect none subaru owners or wannabe mechanics
I have always done it this way and I’ve never had a problem but I’m not a mechanic; Im a home improvement contractor who was fixing his daughters brakes. Your best too ask someone who does it professionally.
The socket sizes I mentioned fit her car without issue.
It sounds like you may have more experience with the fine details but all I know is I’ve been changing brakes the same way for thirty years and for thirty years it’s been the same for me.
Yes for metric, yes AWD, no it doesn't really matter if you do the pistons individually with a car like this that only has two per side. If you were working on a vehicle that has more then 2 pistons, I'd say use a piece of wood with the c-clamp to compress them at the same time.
Source: a mechanic.
Not all are awd. Good video for a beginner.
@@mhammer2245 every Subaru besides the BRZ IS AWD, this one certainly is
@@Sjh1138 no there're not. Common misconception. While it's not Common for a Subaru to be 2wd, they are out there. I was under the same impression that they were only 4wd, had a couple of imprezzas come into shop that were only fwd, not awd
What kind of pads did you use to replace?
The mid priced metallic pads from AutoZone
Thanks, how do they hold up over time? I've heard some people say one should only be using OEM brakes but I've never been into cars enough to actually test that theory.
@@analisehannah4568 I've used non OEM brakes for over 30 years without an issue.
That front set will never squeal….. the tabs aren’t in….
Lol
Why so much extra talking who cares about the heat or any other extra bs you said
Well since it's my video, I put in it what I choose. The important question is why are you so judgmental?