yes you can do this. try making a jig to hold the pieces in place while heating up. the jig could be 1/2 inch plate section with holes drilled into for the parts to go in the extra steel will help hold the heat while you place the carbide and braze. the bits should be warm so they do not draw the heat away brazing with the wire rod and then returning back to heat until the braze starts to melt like solder does. once this happens pull out and cool with a spray mist this will lock the molten metal slowly and not harm the carbide teeth
This is interesting work, Alan, and you’ve approached it logically. The only thing I could suggest that might make it worth the trouble to do batch brazing in the forge is to first sweat solder the slots of the bolts with your Stay-Silv, let them cool, apply another layer of flux, lightly clamp fluxed carbides in position with, say, binding wire, then return a small batch to the forge on a shovel of some kind, which you pull out of the forge when the sweated solder has flowed again. It might be hard to get them all to flow at exactly the same time, though, and it will obviously be harder to see solder flow on multiple items in a forge than on a single item in a vice. Just out of interest, what is the cost of bronze brazing rod over there as opposed to that silver solder you’re using? Would it be cheaper to use silicon or manganese bronze rod instead of that silver solder? Flow temp. would be higher with the bronze, but initial purchase cost might be considerably cheaper.
@@MarcWh the manufacturer recommends the silver solder because of its melting point. Along with the amount of impacts at high speeds that it has to endure
@@MarcWh thank you for the advice I will have to try that out, so far the best way that I’ve found was using an oxi- acetylene torch, which I also have a video on. If you don’t mind give that a watch and you have any advice I would appreciate it
@@alansteelmetalwork Yes, I saw the other video. You can certainly speed up production on this job using just your torch. Don’t hold individual items in your vice (which is a big heat sink anyway, as I’m sure you know, and allows a lot of the heat from the torch to dissipate unused). Instead make up a small brazing hearth - nothing fancy needed, just a few vermiculite or ceramic blocks beneath and on three sides of the work. You can even have a bit of an awning part-way over the top. Lay half a dozen prepped bolts (i.e. cleaned, fluxed, carbides in situ, brazing rod laid on, or sweat-soldering previously done) side by side in the hearth with the business ends facing you. You will be heating each bolt one by one obviously, but in the semi-closed environment of the hearth the heat from the first completed bolt will already have warmed the neighbouring bolt considerably, meaning the time to get up to flow temp. will be a lot less than for the first bolt, and so on down the line. The beauty of this system is that you’re giving every part individual attention in sequence, but the sequence is a lot quicker than if you're putting them in a vice one by one.
yes you can do this. try making a jig to hold the pieces in place while heating up. the jig could be 1/2 inch plate section with holes drilled into for the parts to go in
the extra steel will help hold the heat while you place the carbide and braze. the bits should be warm so they do not draw the heat away
brazing with the wire rod and then returning back to heat until the braze starts to melt like solder does. once this happens pull out and cool with a spray mist this will lock the molten metal slowly and not harm the carbide teeth
I will give that a shot, I was under a time crunch so I wasn’t able to fabricate a jig but that’s a great idea
This is interesting work, Alan, and you’ve approached it logically.
The only thing I could suggest that might make it worth the trouble to do batch brazing in the forge is to first sweat solder the slots of the bolts with your Stay-Silv, let them cool, apply another layer of flux, lightly clamp fluxed carbides in position with, say, binding wire, then return a small batch to the forge on a shovel of some kind, which you pull out of the forge when the sweated solder has flowed again.
It might be hard to get them all to flow at exactly the same time, though, and it will obviously be harder to see solder flow on multiple items in a forge than on a single item in a vice.
Just out of interest, what is the cost of bronze brazing rod over there as opposed to that silver solder you’re using? Would it be cheaper to use silicon or manganese bronze rod instead of that silver solder? Flow temp. would be higher with the bronze, but initial purchase cost might be considerably cheaper.
@@MarcWh the manufacturer recommends the silver solder because of its melting point. Along with the amount of impacts at high speeds that it has to endure
@@MarcWh thank you for the advice I will have to try that out, so far the best way that I’ve found was using an oxi- acetylene torch, which I also have a video on. If you don’t mind give that a watch and you have any advice I would appreciate it
@@alansteelmetalwork Yes, I saw the other video. You can certainly speed up production on this job using just your torch.
Don’t hold individual items in your vice (which is a big heat sink anyway, as I’m sure you know, and allows a lot of the heat from the torch to dissipate unused). Instead make up a small brazing hearth - nothing fancy needed, just a few vermiculite or ceramic blocks beneath and on three sides of the work. You can even have a bit of an awning part-way over the top.
Lay half a dozen prepped bolts (i.e. cleaned, fluxed, carbides in situ, brazing rod laid on, or sweat-soldering previously done) side by side in the hearth with the business ends facing you. You will be heating each bolt one by one obviously, but in the semi-closed environment of the hearth the heat from the first completed bolt will already have warmed the neighbouring bolt considerably, meaning the time to get up to flow temp. will be a lot less than for the first bolt, and so on down the line. The beauty of this system is that you’re giving every part individual attention in sequence, but the sequence is a lot quicker than if you're putting them in a vice one by one.