People might not realize that this knowledge can be applied to different fields. I appreciate everything from this channel and I sure others do too. Please keep up the fantastic videos. We all like them.
Yes, that is correct. This only works on nickel or silver plated surfaces and not on lacquered surfaces. You can also just put the contact cement on both surfaces for any type of surface if you want. Both will work, but heating up the key is usually easier.
hi Havent you ever serviced a euphonium with a trigger. My trigger on main tunning slide is very stiff and although it comes out easily it doesn't retract back to starting position fully.
For your video you have used an instrument that seems to ideally suited for demonstration purposes. In my 52 years of wood wind refurbishing, instruments such as the one you use in the video can be counted on the fingers of one hand. I have had instruments where the gap between the key foot and the key bar has been as much as a full 3.5mm, whereas the ideal gap as mentioned by you should be around 1.5mm. Also I have found cork to be a totally unsatisfactory material for bar keys and clutch pads. This material was used in the early days as there was no other material available and it is incredibly ridiculous that it continues to be used to the present day. I have found the hardest possible felt either natural or synthetic to be the ideal material for bar keys and clutch pads, while the regular cork is totally suitable for key foot use. Have you ever used any other material for bar keys and clutch pads except cork? Use of cork in a bar key gap of over 3mm would require adjustment every few days. I would appreciate your comments, suggestions, advice or any information you think would be of use.Thank you.
People might not realize that this knowledge can be applied to different fields. I appreciate everything from this channel and I sure others do too. Please keep up the fantastic videos. We all like them.
Muchas gracias
Awesome video and very insightful information.
So, even though your using contact cement you're applying it to only the cork and not the key and relying on the heated key to activate the glue?
Yes, that is correct. This only works on nickel or silver plated surfaces and not on lacquered surfaces.
You can also just put the contact cement on both surfaces for any type of surface if you want. Both will work, but heating up the key is usually easier.
Fantastic info... thanks!
hi Havent you ever serviced a euphonium with a trigger. My trigger on main tunning slide is very stiff and although it comes out easily it doesn't retract back to starting position fully.
Most likely the slide has a build-up of junk on it. Watch this video. It may help. If this does not work, let me know.
You are the best!
For your video you have used an instrument that seems to ideally suited for demonstration purposes. In my 52 years of wood wind refurbishing, instruments such as the one you use in the video can be counted on the fingers of one hand. I have had instruments where the gap between the key foot and the key bar has been as much as a full 3.5mm, whereas the ideal gap as mentioned by you should be around 1.5mm. Also I have found cork to be a totally unsatisfactory material for bar keys and clutch pads. This material was used in the early days as there was no other material available and it is incredibly ridiculous that it continues to be used to the present day. I have found the hardest possible felt either natural or synthetic to be the ideal material for bar keys and clutch pads, while the regular cork is totally suitable for key foot use. Have you ever used any other material for bar keys and clutch pads except cork? Use of cork in a bar key gap of over 3mm would require adjustment every few days. I would appreciate your comments, suggestions, advice or any information you think would be of use.Thank you.
Agree