Hey Chris, I can't be blamed for that lol!! I was in the same mindset as you..but if I wanted this operational aspect for the layout, I had to bite the bullet..regards
Hi mate Beautifully engineered as usual! Watch your track clearance at the hinge point. You’ve cut it pretty fine, when you raise the bridge the track on both sides of the join actually move closer together as it swings through the arc and the two ends can hit each other. Hinges for bridges that raise are often mounted on top of the boards. This’ll make more sense when you lay lay track across the hinge end gap.
Hi Gary..cheers. Yeah next video should make or break with the finished outcome. I'll be clamping down the tracks to see what type of tolerances there will be. Hoping with an arc of 1100mm, it will present with more leeway. Yeah understand the hinge on top..but I find that ugly and I always need to be a little different 🤪..even if it bites me on the backside lol..
Nice job there. I had seen on another video that if you install the hinges on top of the left section and the table and installed some 1/4 “ plywood under the hinges and on top of the tables you get over the swing problem.
These bridges don't need a complex mechanism as some modelers end up making them. The big thing is that they are solidly located with a good pivot which you seen to have accomplished very nicely. I also really enjoyed this video format of conducting the work with a voice over highlighting the important points. Nice work and a nice video. Thanks Jason.
Appreciate the feedback on the video format. They do take up more time, where I like to just get on with the job..lol. yes agree with the complexities..even thinking that way with the wiring..regards
Jason - always informative and interesting. I think your fundamental issue is one of geometry. when you have the pivot point below the surface of the bridge, the end of the bridge will move further into "the abutment" ie the fixed track. you'd have found it much easier if the pivot was above the track level. I see another comment where you say you don't like the look of that arrangement - so you've made a choice and that's fine but obviously you have to live with the issues
Hi Jason - That was great mate. Simple operation, some make it really difficult for themselves. As usual a very thorough fix, possibly over engineered LOL. I think I might have fitted a couple of long hinges on the top along either side of the track and bolted them on. Looking forward to seeing how you wire it up. Regards Chris
Hi David, that will be the next part to it. Still thinking about the wiring aspect, but given I do have a few locos with keep alives, Im wondering whether I just keep it simple without any fail safes built in. Which part looked complicated, using those pivot hinges? They just lacked the finer adjustments, so I have to improvise in certains areas to line it up correctly..regards
Jason I watched part two , Would not allow me to comment so I am doing it here, build is fantastic, only big issue for if I build one is allow clearance for the track at the hinge point
Hi Dundas, I'm not sure about the not allowing you to comment. I, too, do get that issue every now and then. I only went with my hinge solution, as I didn't want the hinge to be visible. But if you don't care about that, just do a normal hinge on top..regards
You could have put the shim under where the bridge rests on the opening end. As far as the hinge end, you could have adjusted the hinge mount height and avoided putting the styrene under the mat.
Thanks for the feedback Jeff. Unfortunately if I put it under where you have suggested, it would of been twice as high..it needed to go where I placed it (on the layout side). There was a lot of little tweaks off camera wirh the limited movement that the hinge would allow. At the end it was 0.5-0.8mm too high and the easiest option was to place the sheets where I did, as it was the bridge that was just that little too high for a smooth transition of where rail meets rail..cheers
@@JasonWood_Escarpment understood. The little tweaks are pretty nerve racking at times I know. Layout looks great, for a guy who claims he’s not a carpenter per se but just like working with, I’d say your very good at not being a carpenter🤪😉 pun intended
Nice one Jason, looks like it’s going to work ok, i think the key as others have said is to keep it as simple as possible. Look forward to the next update mate Cheers for now, John
The bridge is at a low height, blocking the door. I hope you will never break your neck when you are hasty and do not see the bridge. I ran through a fly screen with my thoughts elsewhere, but I am getting old LOL but sometimes extraordinary things have to be done to solve a problem. Good luck!
Hi Huib, very good point. As long as I don't get lazy and just go to step over it all the time, I should be right..well fingers crossed anyway lol. Appreciate the feedback..cheers
Jason, great work as usual. My bridge is a drop-down one, which is then located underneath with pad bolts. I reckon a curly cord will work to power track from one side to the other. I have found up to 5mm change too from wet to dry weather, with the timber expanding in wetter times. track alignment is tougher with expansion and contraction. Dallas - Kingsview model Railway.
Hi Dallas..thanks! Havent experienced the changes in wood as yet..well hasn't been dry for long enough lol. I have another design in place to power the bridge and the two isolated tracks on each side, will be in the final video instalment..cheers
What are the names of those balled hinges you used? I liked what they did.. Great video start to finish. Process incredibly thought out and so solid! Very much appreciate you showing us this. You have no wiring on that bridge, look forward to your track lay to see how you continue further.
Great work Jason! I’ve used your viaduct vids as a great reference building some n scale replica zig zag railway viaducts for my layout. While watching, I found myself thinking about some rare earth magnets as a form of latch, both up and down. You can get them with a countersunk hole for a screw, and you could recess them into the existing timber for a very clean positive latch, and could potentially use them for power transfer.
Hi Phil, some food for thought there. I don't suppose you know where one would purchase those from here in Australia? I guess I'm wondering how strong they are, but either way, something to look into..regards
I’m keen to see what you have planned for the brick work on the viaduct. I know you mentioned 3d printing. N scale has very little available, I’m tinkering with some noch sandstone brick sheets and reducing them on a colour photo copier to see how they go, but I think the texture will be important.
Yeah, no change there, I will be covering the viaduct with 3d brick prints. Before the 3d printer I was looking into photo prints, but fir me I wanted that texture. Even though from a distance you wouldnt notice
Hi Dave, it's been a while since I made this video, and I'm not sure what I said in it. But I plan to put girders on it and ballast only, as far as scenic stuff goes..cheers
Looking really good and something that would always be a little nerve-wrecking for me to consider!! Also my mind kept telling me you had printed off a poster at 1:20 and stuck it on the dark grey wall... took a while to realise it was a hole viewing through to the tracks on the other side of the wall!! (Been a long day!!)
Yay!! First to view, looks a good solid job Jason, well done. I have six tracks going across my lift up bridge in n scale, jeez that was a pain to get right, well done anyway!
Hi ya Jason. When I saw the video was about a lift up bridge, I knew you would do a great job. It’s simple, sturdy, it will line up every time…..that’s all you really need. No sense in overly complicating things. You cracked me up at the beginning. With the off camera voice. So funny. And the fact that you are so dead panned about it, makes it even funnier. Oh yeah……I think I will be hearing that sexy female whispering in my ear in my sleep……..subscribe! 😂
Hi Norman, thanks for the vote of confidence. Just need to finalise the track and wiring and it should do the job very well..and agree with keeping it simple. I'm glad you find the voice funny, I throw them in every now and then..some like it, some don't, but it entertains me when filming lol. If I told you where the sexy voice comes from, you may be scared for life..regards
Jason shut you not make a connector underneath the bridge, when open the track a meter on both side Do not have any power. Won't have any runneway trains, just to be sure
Hi Yuri, yeah still thinking about the power configuration. The problem is I have a few locos with keep alives and even if the power gets cut, they have onboard power for up to 7-8 seconds..regards
@@JasonWood_Escarpment oké and what about, when the bridge is open on 2 point on the track when a train will pass there will be a zoomer or different sound. So you can cut off the Train speed yourself.
@@Yuristinkens Im even just thinking of making some soft foam barriers for each side. So when the bridge is up they can be put in place on both sides across the track.
Enjoyed your video except for that constant "Subscribe" whisper in my ear - dump it for goodness sake - totally unnecessary and distracting. Did not subscribe purely because of that annoying whisper.
Thanks for your honest feedback Peter. Unfortunately from time to time I may do distracting querkie things on this channel..thats just me! So this may not be a channel for you..regards
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Another great video. I was never going to do this bridge across a doorway but I think you have convinced me to change my track plan again.
Hey Chris, I can't be blamed for that lol!! I was in the same mindset as you..but if I wanted this operational aspect for the layout, I had to bite the bullet..regards
Hi mate
Beautifully engineered as usual!
Watch your track clearance at the hinge point. You’ve cut it pretty fine, when you raise the bridge the track on both sides of the join actually move closer together as it swings through the arc and the two ends can hit each other. Hinges for bridges that raise are often mounted on top of the boards. This’ll make more sense when you lay lay track across the hinge end gap.
Hi Gary..cheers. Yeah next video should make or break with the finished outcome. I'll be clamping down the tracks to see what type of tolerances there will be. Hoping with an arc of 1100mm, it will present with more leeway. Yeah understand the hinge on top..but I find that ugly and I always need to be a little different 🤪..even if it bites me on the backside lol..
Good day Jason 😊Looking great that lift up bridge ✅ Part two should be just as interesting 👍🏻🏴
Thanks Stevie..working on part two now
Nice job there. I had seen on another video that if you install the hinges on top of the left section and the table and installed some 1/4 “ plywood under the hinges and on top of the tables you get over the swing problem.
Thanks for the feedback. That is correct! But I didn't want any hinges visible, so I went with this solution..cheers
These bridges don't need a complex mechanism as some modelers end up making them. The big thing is that they are solidly located with a good pivot which you seen to have accomplished very nicely.
I also really enjoyed this video format of conducting the work with a voice over highlighting the important points. Nice work and a nice video. Thanks Jason.
Appreciate the feedback on the video format. They do take up more time, where I like to just get on with the job..lol. yes agree with the complexities..even thinking that way with the wiring..regards
Jason - always informative and interesting. I think your fundamental issue is one of geometry. when you have the pivot point below the surface of the bridge, the end of the bridge will move further into "the abutment" ie the fixed track. you'd have found it much easier if the pivot was above the track level. I see another comment where you say you don't like the look of that arrangement - so you've made a choice and that's fine but obviously you have to live with the issues
Thanks for your feedback Lee..spot on and yes my geometry sucks. But part 2 of this series sorts it out lol..cheers
Hi Jason - That was great mate. Simple operation, some make it really difficult for themselves.
As usual a very thorough fix, possibly over engineered LOL. I think I might have fitted a couple of long hinges on the top along either side of the track and bolted them on.
Looking forward to seeing how you wire it up.
Regards Chris
Hey Chris, over engineered? Not sure what you mean 😉 lol. Yeah track and wiring next on the agenda..regards
well it looks well built, nice and sturdy. I am anxious to see track laid and the test train on er.
the way you're doing it does look complicated.
Hi David, that will be the next part to it. Still thinking about the wiring aspect, but given I do have a few locos with keep alives, Im wondering whether I just keep it simple without any fail safes built in. Which part looked complicated, using those pivot hinges? They just lacked the finer adjustments, so I have to improvise in certains areas to line it up correctly..regards
Awesome update Jason!!! Well done! Cheers Onno.
Thanks Onno!
Jason I watched part two , Would not allow me to comment so I am doing it here, build is fantastic, only big issue for if I build one is allow clearance for the track at the hinge point
Hi Dundas, I'm not sure about the not allowing you to comment. I, too, do get that issue every now and then. I only went with my hinge solution, as I didn't want the hinge to be visible. But if you don't care about that, just do a normal hinge on top..regards
Jason I do like this version, I am working on a small staging yard, this idea might. Work James
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Scott..cheers
Looking great Jason, and will increase your operating time. Take care - Kevin
Thanks Kevin, yes it should add a lot of value to the operating outcomes..cheers
You could have put the shim under where the bridge rests on the opening end. As far as the hinge end, you could have adjusted the hinge mount height and avoided putting the styrene under the mat.
Thanks for the feedback Jeff. Unfortunately if I put it under where you have suggested, it would of been twice as high..it needed to go where I placed it (on the layout side). There was a lot of little tweaks off camera wirh the limited movement that the hinge would allow. At the end it was 0.5-0.8mm too high and the easiest option was to place the sheets where I did, as it was the bridge that was just that little too high for a smooth transition of where rail meets rail..cheers
@@JasonWood_Escarpment understood. The little tweaks are pretty nerve racking at times I know. Layout looks great, for a guy who claims he’s not a carpenter per se but just like working with, I’d say your very good at not being a carpenter🤪😉 pun intended
🤣😂
Nice one Jason, looks like it’s going to work ok, i think the key as others have said is to keep it as simple as possible. Look forward to the next update mate
Cheers for now, John
Thanks John, that was the goal lol. The test will be with the wiring of it..cheers
The bridge is at a low height, blocking the door.
I hope you will never break your neck when you are hasty and do not see the bridge.
I ran through a fly screen with my thoughts elsewhere, but I am getting old LOL
but sometimes extraordinary things have to be done to solve a problem.
Good luck!
Hi Huib, very good point. As long as I don't get lazy and just go to step over it all the time, I should be right..well fingers crossed anyway lol. Appreciate the feedback..cheers
Jason looks great , very impressive build
Thanks Dundas, simple but effective..cheers
Jason I changed my channel name, was just , James Gaulton
Apologies James, the memory has just been triggered!
Jason no worries, I found the hinge , update I moved, planning a new layout. More to come
Just what Iv been looking for 🙏
I'm glad it was useful for you..regards
Jason, great work as usual. My bridge is a drop-down one, which is then located underneath with pad bolts. I reckon a curly cord will work to power track from one side to the other. I have found up to 5mm change too from wet to dry weather, with the timber expanding in wetter times. track alignment is tougher with expansion and contraction. Dallas - Kingsview model Railway.
Hi Dallas..thanks! Havent experienced the changes in wood as yet..well hasn't been dry for long enough lol. I have another design in place to power the bridge and the two isolated tracks on each side, will be in the final video instalment..cheers
What are the names of those balled hinges you used? I liked what they did.. Great video start to finish. Process incredibly thought out and so solid! Very much appreciate you showing us this. You have no wiring on that bridge, look forward to your track lay to see how you continue further.
Hi Michael, I came across them on eBay by searching for "Pivot hinges". There will be another video for the track and wiring..cheers
Great work Jason! I’ve used your viaduct vids as a great reference building some n scale replica zig zag railway viaducts for my layout. While watching, I found myself thinking about some rare earth magnets as a form of latch, both up and down. You can get them with a countersunk hole for a screw, and you could recess them into the existing timber for a very clean positive latch, and could potentially use them for power transfer.
Hi Phil, some food for thought there. I don't suppose you know where one would purchase those from here in Australia? I guess I'm wondering how strong they are, but either way, something to look into..regards
*each
I’m keen to see what you have planned for the brick work on the viaduct. I know you mentioned 3d printing. N scale has very little available, I’m tinkering with some noch sandstone brick sheets and reducing them on a colour photo copier to see how they go, but I think the texture will be important.
Yeah, no change there, I will be covering the viaduct with 3d brick prints. Before the 3d printer I was looking into photo prints, but fir me I wanted that texture. Even though from a distance you wouldnt notice
Girder or similar siding should stop trains falling off of course, probably far more important than the scenic issues
Hi Dave, it's been a while since I made this video, and I'm not sure what I said in it. But I plan to put girders on it and ballast only, as far as scenic stuff goes..cheers
That's exactly what i would do, the girders acting just to stop trains falling off and falling a long way
Looking really good and something that would always be a little nerve-wrecking for me to consider!! Also my mind kept telling me you had printed off a poster at 1:20 and stuck it on the dark grey wall... took a while to realise it was a hole viewing through to the tracks on the other side of the wall!! (Been a long day!!)
Lol Rich..it also got me at one point, and I was taping it! I think some of them can be more complicated than it needs to be..cheers
Yay!! First to view, looks a good solid job Jason, well done. I have six tracks going across my lift up bridge in n scale, jeez that was a pain to get right, well done anyway!
Thanks Phil..first one, was not too bad, a little fiddly but got there in the end. Just the track and wiring remain..cheers
Hi ya Jason. When I saw the video was about a lift up bridge, I knew you would do a great job. It’s simple, sturdy, it will line up every time…..that’s all you really need. No sense in overly complicating things. You cracked me up at the beginning. With the off camera voice. So funny. And the fact that you are so dead panned about it, makes it even funnier. Oh yeah……I think I will be hearing that sexy female whispering in my ear in my sleep……..subscribe! 😂
Hi Norman, thanks for the vote of confidence. Just need to finalise the track and wiring and it should do the job very well..and agree with keeping it simple. I'm glad you find the voice funny, I throw them in every now and then..some like it, some don't, but it entertains me when filming lol. If I told you where the sexy voice comes from, you may be scared for life..regards
If you mount the hinges on top of the board the track opens up and moved away without any issues
Hi Gary, my approach was to not have visible hinges. Otherwise, this would have been the easiest approach..cheers
Hi Jason, how has your lift bridge working out for you 6 months , I might build a similar version of yours
Hi Dundas, it has served me well..no issues to date..cheers
Jason shut you not make a connector underneath the bridge, when open the track a meter on both side Do not have any power.
Won't have any runneway trains, just to be sure
Hi Yuri, yeah still thinking about the power configuration. The problem is I have a few locos with keep alives and even if the power gets cut, they have onboard power for up to 7-8 seconds..regards
@@JasonWood_Escarpment oké and what about, when the bridge is open on 2 point on the track when a train will pass there will be a zoomer or different sound. So you can cut off the Train speed yourself.
@@Yuristinkens Im even just thinking of making some soft foam barriers for each side. So when the bridge is up they can be put in place on both sides across the track.
@@JasonWood_Escarpment I would be a person, open the bridge have the nice soft stops, but never put them in place because my mind is somewhere else!!
@@Yuristinkens know that well..I might see if I could incorporate them automatically, will see how I go
That repetitive ‘subscribe’ pop-up makes me feel more like turning off than subscribing. Just saying.
Thanks for your feedback..noted..cheers
🤠👋🚂🗯
Thanks for watching!
The “subscribe whispering is SUPER annoying and is THE reason I’m not.
No loss to me, to each their own - not sure why you needed to waste your energy telling me that
Enjoyed your video except for that constant "Subscribe" whisper in my ear - dump it for goodness sake - totally unnecessary and distracting. Did not subscribe purely because of that annoying whisper.
Thanks for your honest feedback Peter. Unfortunately from time to time I may do distracting querkie things on this channel..thats just me! So this may not be a channel for you..regards