Nissan Murano Brake Job (Front & Rear)
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2022
- In this video, I change the front and rear brake pads on a 2016 Nissan Murano. This particular vehicle had 70,000 miles on the original brakes, but didn't require any service to the rotors or calipers. This was a very easy job that any home mechanic can do themselves. Please like and subscribe if this video helped you!
Parts used:
Front Brake Pads: DAO6M-3JAOPNW
Rear Brake Pads: DDO6M-8H38PNW
Tools Required:
Lug Nuts: 21MM Socket
Slide Bolts: 17mm (front) 14mm (rear)
Screwdriver
Jack & Jack Stands 
Развлечения
This is another encouraging video regarding Murano maintenance. This is my next project.
Hello. Great! Best of luck with the brake change 👍
This video is prefect!
Prefect speed ok explaining no annoying background music etc! Going to try and replace my own breaks
Glad you liked and best of luck! 👍👍👍
Big thanks,now I'm gonna change pads myself!!!!
Upd. change all pads on my 2 cars. Saving lots of money,thank you.
You’re welcome!
Thanks. Great clear close-ups and camera angles. Good information with each step what to look for and inspect etc.
Glad this helped! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍👍😂
nice job,clear easy to understand,step by step instructions,socket/wrench sizes helpful.
Thank you! Glad this helped. I appreciate the comment 👍
Great vid. Always turn or replace rotors, never just pad swap. Since you only do brakes every 50-60k miles you will be asking for probs, vibrations, or noise if you don't take care of the rotor. Shop down the street from me will turn rotors off the car for $25 a pop, just call around your area. Much better than replacing for $100 plus if there is plenty of metal left.
Great point! Thanks for taking the time to comment! 👍👍👍
Good job. I've been doing brakes similar to this for over 18 years. Hasn't failed me yet.
Thank you!
Great video I'm definitely going to do this brake job, Thank you !
You bet!
Excellent. What i needed an no extra bs. Thank you so much
Exactly my friend! Glad this helped 👍
If you jack up the rear suspension from the bottom, it will compress suspension enough to clear bar so you can remove lower bolt and lube it.
Good tip!
About to tackle rear brakes on wifes Murano..glad I watched. I have to change rotors as well so that bottom caliper bolt would have been a wtf moment for sure lol
Ha! Yeah, I always tend to watch others to find surprises. Good luck!
Great detailed video, thank you !
You’re welcome! Thanks for commenting 👍👍👍
Did this today.. thanks for the video :)
You bet!
$15.00 caliper kit from harbor freight made my life so much easier. But the c clamp life ain’t so bad.
Hahahah! Yeah I’ve been meaning to buy one of those. Thanks for the comment!
Thats the one that simply a long threaded rod with a piece of curved metal?
Its a PITA as you extend it fully to push the piston back and it wedges itself in and spinning the handle to release it simply unscrews the handle.....
Spot weld or drill a hole through the handle/rod and put a cotter pin in there.
Great job. I am learned alot
Great! Thanks for the comment 👍
Ice job. Going to be doing this this weekend. Will let you know how it goes!!
Please do! Best of luck!
I just purchased that exact floor jack for this!
Hell yeah! I love mine so far 👍
Great job. Thanks
You’re welcome 👍
Great video, thank you
You are welcome!
Thank you for sharing
You bet!
Great video to the point did it quick. Just a tip the rear brakes on the bottom caliper bolt you can leave it on and just pull it down from the top. Don’t strip the bottom bolt like I did much easier on the other side now that I know that
Hello. Excellent tip! The Marano is due for another brake job so I will try this when I change them out again. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome!
excellent
👍
Thank you, thank you thank you
You are very welcome!
Hi, somewhere it says when working with ABS systems, it is not a good idea to retract the pads in the way you do it without opening the bleeder first, so the fluid does not pressure back into the system. Have you consider this or have you had any issues after servicing these systems? Thx.
Hello. I’ve never read / heard anything like that, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t true. I’ve never had any complications after a brake job. It may be more of a best practice tip, but not absolutely something to avoid. Thanks for the question 👍
@@FastFixRUclips Hi, I just did the break job (Front and Rear) on my 2018 Murano S following your video and everything went well. Just were extra careful and compressed the calipers really slowly. I installed Akebono ACT1649 and ACT905A and breaks perfect. Thanks for the video!
@@flashnvram2480 you are welcome! Yes, slow is better than a bunch of go when it comes to that. Nice job 👍👍👍
Should add break-in procedure....
break-in procedure is critical to brake performance. Proper break-ins are necessary to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed.
Thank you for your comment. Sounds like you’ve got a good idea for a video 👍
Not a bad idea to re-lube caliper slide pins since you have it apart . . .
For sure! I just didn’t have any and I was lazy…. The tires should’ve been rotated too, but I’ll do that this spring and lube up the pins when the wheels are off again. Thanks!
My friends Murano, hit the brakes and it's a ton of vibration, the rotors are only 18 months old, but I know they are toast. Should we go with Rock Auto replacement, or carbon fiber from Rock Auto or go OEM ? (130+, 206+, 400 for parts,r espectively). Anything I recommend will be an improvement, but whoever did the last job, she only got 18 months from it.
Hello there! Wow, 18 months is on the low side. This could be due to cheap parts (likely) or if your friend is hard on the brakes. Either way, I almost always go with OEM. My experience with aftermarket brakes has always been a let down, no matter if I bought the most expensive or the cheapest. I’d give the OEM parts a try if you’re looking for longevity. Best of luck!
Also, if I’m reading your comment correctly, the OEM parts are $400? If so, shop around. OEM will generally be more pricey, but there are websites that carry OEM stuff and can usually be found cheaper than if buying from the dealership.
Does the clips goes top or bottom? I’ve seen some that put them on the bottom. 07 murano. Your take?
Without being able to reference mine in real time, I have no idea. I installed mine exactly the way the factory had it, however. If I put it on the top, it goes on the top 👍
Jesus Christ its Jason Bourne)
Ty for video.
😂😂😂 you’re welcome!
Just a thought, it might make retracting the calipers easier by removing
the brake fluid cap. That way there is room for the fluid to rise in the reservoir.
Hello. Yes, removing the cap can aid in pressing the calipers back. However, I have never taken this step. I suppose I just prefer to keep the system closed whenever possible. Thanks for the suggestion and comment 👍
was told by dealer that the cost of replacing rear brake pads is $600.00. I don't think that includes rotors
$600 is incredibly high even if it includes new rotors. I would go somewhere else or give this one a try on your own. Best of luck either way 👍
@FastFixRUclips $581which included rotors from foreign car repair specialist. Convinced it was high...will refrain from this happening again.thanks
On the rear pads. Did you grease both sides of the edges?
Yep! Grease any metal to metal contact areas 👍
Nice video, though really, really major mistake shown here.
Every time you do a brake job, you should always pull the 2 slide pins and re-grease them as it only takes like 1 minute each to wipe off the old nasty grease and put new on.
Kind of hard to believe 70K on original OEM pads and rotors as I seem to need ones every 2nd/3rd brake job. And that using Raybestos parts.
Another thing I've learned is that those pieces of bent 'wire' the better kits come with are actually needed as they press the pads out away from the rotor when you release the pedal.
Excellent tips! Thanks for your comment 👍
You good, you just miss it to pump the brakes after you replace the brake pads.
👆 good tip!
sp you dont have to bleed the lines when you do the swap?
Nope, not at all. You only need to bleed the lines if you disconnect the lines or remove the caliper…as long as you don’t interrupt the brake fluid, no need to bleed. Hope that makes sense.
@@FastFixRUclips it actually does. everytime ive changed brakes ive always bleed the lines simply because thats the way i learned lol. i figured this was something that newer vehicles changed or something.
Yeah you won't get 70k outta this brake job without at least turning those rotors.
Yeah, prob true 👍
LMAOOO bro first u got robbed from the dealer for their prices and double fisted to not even include those cheap ass metal brackets... Come on now ur better then that. Great video though just wish ppl dont get scammed by these dealers.
Just to let you know the pads you have right there are not OEM ,look at the box ,it says value advantage, which are a cheep line of pads that Nissan dealerships have and cost way less , and the quality is also way less ,but they never tell you that at the part counter or on line or when your having work done at a dealership, you never see or know what grade parts they are using to do your repair ,and will charge you OEM price, if you do your homework and really care what your getting for your money and really want OEM genuine replacement parts that are made to the T for you murano, beware of what you are getting, look up what Nissan advantage value group is , your OEM genuine replacement parts should be made in Japan, not in China or Mexico, it really pissed me off when I went to a dealership parts counter and asked them for genuine OEM parts , front and back rotors,and front and back pads,pads did not come with hard ware kits and have to be purchased separately, and mind you all that stuff is pretty expensive but that's what I wanted and was willing to pay for it ,and believe me when you buy and get the genuine OEM parts you will so see and feel the difference plus they will last twice as long and you will not see a spec of break dust from the pads,so I payed for all OEM stuff and when I went to pick it up the slick fuckers gave me all Nissan lower end parts ,and I didn't even know there was lower end parts ,a friend of mine looked at the parts and schooled me on what was really goin on,and I returned all the parts and told them, and now I would like to have genuine OEM parts not what you gave me ,the parts guy had a funny look on his face like oh shit, no problem sir but your going to have to pay a bit more, and I did ,when you get the OEM break pad hardware kits there are alot more parts in the pack,it just sucks how much salesmen try to get over on people that don't inquire or don't know better ,we'll I hope my information help you out in the future!, God bless, and awesome video! 😊 oh by the way I have a 2018 Nissan murano awd s.
Are you freaking kidding me? 🤦♂️. What a bunch of scamming bastards. I had no idea man….wow. I recently did front and rear brakes on my f150. Rotors and pads. Got all “OEM” parts from Ford dealer. It’s been a little over a year and the front rotors are already going warped. I put on 15,000 since I’ve owned it. The original pads and rotors lasted 55k. These didn’t last 15k. Now I know why. That’s such bullshit. Damn, hate to hear it but glad I heard it. Thanks man!
Good Information! Reminds me of Sears selling poor quality tools labelled "Sears" and "Champion", not Craftsman and obviously without the Craftsman warranty. Even the tools labelled Craftsman decreased in quality in the later years.