What a beauty! I was looking at my 92 year old father's identical meter to yours (has '63 written inside) today that has survived two moves from the UK to New Zealand and then NZ to Australia. 15V Battery is long dead and no 1.5V battery. Thanks for showing the polarity of that 1.5V battery and also how to calibrate as the calibration is a little off.
I recently purchased a Model 8 Mark 3. After you mentioned the build date I had a look at mine. The build date is 9th month 1968. In September 1968 I celebrated my sixteenth birthday. I served my apprenticeship with an electrical supply authority an Avometers were the workhorses in the testing section of that organisation. I had not seen an AVO in over forty years so when I saw one for sale I could not resist the temptation to purchase it. Thank you for your explanation of its internals.
Thanks for a great description of the mk2 Avo. I was lucky enough to acquire the AVO8 mk2 just needed batteries. The mk 2 was made in 1956. I have used Avo all my life what a great test meter they are. The RR of test meters.
As "yorrrick" also commented, the "cut out" is triggered via a linkage from the actual meter movement, so it is sensing/reacting to meter travel rather than a solenoid. Also, those banks of cam-operated leaf switches are for rearranging the circuitry for the different functions, rather than for the ranges. The range switching is done by conventional rotary switch contacts which are visible in this video but not mentioned. Most of the range selection components are on that Bakelite slab, in the form of all the wire-wound resistors. However, for some of the AC functions/ranges, the multi-tapped autotransformer (single winding) is used instead. When discussing the Avometers, especially the Model 8, it is important to note that the 'model' part of the name is really a misnomer, as besides the general 'look' and rough front panel arrangement, there are not many similarities between the many versions of the Model 8, which Avometer refers to as 'Mark', e.g. this video shows a Model 8 Mark 2. So the 'mark' number is more important that the model number. Over the many years that the Model 8 series was manufactured, there is a wide variety of circuit and physical changes these meters went through. The later 'marks' bear little resemblance internally to the earlier ones.
I have two of these meters, one a Mk7 and Naval issue Model 40 with a full high current/voltage shunt set. I still use them on the bench for certain tests. I've found they work very well for testing some components in circuit.
Купил сегодня такой же тестер на авито(Россия),почти новый за 21евро.Какая цена в вашей Стране? Bought today such same beautiful tester on avito(Russia), almost a new for 21€ . What the price in your Country?
What a beauty! I was looking at my 92 year old father's identical meter to yours (has '63 written inside) today that has survived two moves from the UK to New Zealand and then NZ to Australia. 15V Battery is long dead and no 1.5V battery.
Thanks for showing the polarity of that 1.5V battery and also how to calibrate as the calibration is a little off.
I recently purchased a Model 8 Mark 3. After you mentioned the build date I had a look at mine. The build date is 9th month 1968. In September 1968 I celebrated my sixteenth birthday. I served my apprenticeship with an electrical supply authority an Avometers were the workhorses in the testing section of that organisation. I had not seen an AVO in over forty years so when I saw one for sale I could not resist the temptation to purchase it. Thank you for your explanation of its internals.
Had an avo model 8 mk two for a number of years. Won’t get rid of it no matter what. Too useful and easy to use!
Thanks for a great description of the mk2 Avo. I was lucky enough to acquire the AVO8 mk2 just needed batteries. The mk 2 was made in 1956. I have used Avo all my life what a great test meter they are. The RR of test meters.
As "yorrrick" also commented, the "cut out" is triggered via a linkage from the actual meter movement, so it is sensing/reacting to meter travel rather than a solenoid.
Also, those banks of cam-operated leaf switches are for rearranging the circuitry for the different functions, rather than for the ranges. The range switching is done by conventional rotary switch contacts which are visible in this video but not mentioned.
Most of the range selection components are on that Bakelite slab, in the form of all the wire-wound resistors. However, for some of the AC functions/ranges, the multi-tapped autotransformer (single winding) is used instead.
When discussing the Avometers, especially the Model 8, it is important to note that the 'model' part of the name is really a misnomer, as besides the general 'look' and rough front panel arrangement, there are not many similarities between the many versions of the Model 8, which Avometer refers to as 'Mark', e.g. this video shows a Model 8 Mark 2. So the 'mark' number is more important that the model number. Over the many years that the Model 8 series was manufactured, there is a wide variety of circuit and physical changes these meters went through. The later 'marks' bear little resemblance internally to the earlier ones.
I have two of these meters, one a Mk7 and Naval issue Model 40 with a full high current/voltage shunt set. I still use them on the bench for certain tests. I've found they work very well for testing some components in circuit.
According to wikipedia the cut-out is actually operated by the meter coil frame hitting either forward or reverse sprung end-stops
Купил сегодня такой же тестер на авито(Россия),почти новый за 21евро.Какая цена в вашей Стране?
Bought today such same beautiful tester on avito(Russia), almost a new for 21€ . What the price in your Country?
really good
Absolutely brilliant i collect them