Why Is My COMBI Boiler Running When It Should Be OFF, Is It Normal Or Is It Faulty?
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- I will go through all the reasons why your combination boiler is running when it should be OFF.
I will cover boiler setting that may be the reason, heating controls which may be the reason. And a more advanced look at your wiring of your controls and boiler faults that may be the reason, with a look at the wiring in your boiler also.
This Video is for "Combination Boilers " only if you have a Heat Only Boiler and a large hot water tank, Then I've made a separate video all about why your Heat Only boiler is running when it should be off.
VIDEO: Why Is My Heat Only Boiler Running When It Should Be OFF?
• Why Is My Boiler Runni...
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Chapters
0:00 Why is my Combination Boiler Running, when it Should Be OFF. Introduction.
1:23 Pump Over Run on a Combination Boiler.
2:07 Combination Boiler Frost Protection.
2:51 Combination Boiler Preheat Keeping Boiler Running.
5:40 Combination Boiler Heating Running When It Should Be OFF!
9:30 Combination Boiler Heating Running When It Should Be OFF. FAULTS.
10:46 Combination Boiler Additional Controls.
11:12 Hot Water Leak Keeping Combination Boiler Running!
11:45 Combination Boiler Wiring.
13:13 Summing Up Why a Combination Boiler is Running When It Should Be OFF.
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Brilliant video, really helpful thank you Mark...👍
Great advice, thanks Mark.
Amazing clear, thank you.🐞
Good video. We had one with our new Vaillant Home Combi was firing up when toilet flushed. We had a slight water hammer and hot water flow sensor in boiler thought hot tap was opened. Couldn’t solve hammer so engineer adjusted the flow sensor setting. I guess the installer should have checked this and fitted a shock absorber.
Fabulous video, thanks so much
Simply brilliiant videos!!
Mark thanks for the video, very useful. I have just had a Hive single channel thermostat fitted to my Glowworm ultracom boiler. Previously the heating was controlled by an analogue integrated timer. Everything with the hive looks to be working correctly but my radiators are heating up to the set point (55) even when the thermostat isn’t calling for heating. The only way I can turn them off is by manually choosing hot water only on the main boiler display. Do you think this is a boiler control wiring issue or a stuck valve?
I have a viesmam boiler when I turn the dial to turn the heating off the boiler Carrys on running but according to my smart meter it isn't using any gas if that makes sense
Great video. I just had a vaillant eco fit pure. What a pain it's been since install.
Damn thing comes on to great up the water, flashing the radiator symbol, when the central heating is off! My engineer thought it was the diverter near the water tank. Nope! I've checked my house thermostat and changed the batteries. No difference. Wish I'd never chosen vaillant more trouble than it's worth. Engineer coming back a third time to fix, but it's either faulty or not fit for purpose: vaillant ecofit 625 if you're interested. Which also doesn't appear to have a comfort function either despite what the manual shows. 🤬
Adding to my other comment we have 5 radiators and I can confirm they are all hot all over, no cold sections so that’s good. When first turned on after being off for a while I go here a few bits going through the pipe so that will be sludgy bits but as per my previous comment not much I can go at the moment due to financial reasons and risk of causing leak with power flush. I would say the system is reasonably quiet in operation too. I’m just preying for no more problems!
Great video. Our boiler locked out at weekend Vailant Eco Pro Mk 1 I believe. No hot water, the radiators were luke warm but due to Fault Code I turned down the thermostat controls. I even turned the wall controller to “off” but for 24 hours until the engineer came the pump was constantly sending cold water around the radiators. I contemplated pressing reset or turning boiler off on the switch on front of boiler but I was wary of messing about in case I caused pressure build up or other damage(I’m not an engineer). The fault code suggested pump or pressure switch failure. Engineer replaced pressure switch but I was still wary of underlying fault as we had a number of new parts in the summer to extend the boilers life and hopefully reliability as it’s around 15 years old and we can’t afford a new one😢. Thankfully the engineer did this under our monthly gas cover and we had new pump, diverter valve , pressure switch, and some other bits, I think a new heat exchanger plate too, so I was very surprised six months later to have pressure switch failure. Sadly yesterday morning just 24 hours after repair water started pouring out the bottom of the boiler. I was worried it might be heat exchanger but turns out Vaillant used to use some part copper/rubber pipes and a nearly 1 inch split had occurred. I was annoyed at first but the split pipe was facing the rear of the boiler so would not have been obvious to the previous engineer. I was hoping the other rubber pipe would be replaced too but for now he has just replaced the leaking one with an upgraded all copper pipe. Fingers crossed and praying we have a good run now without issues. Yes it’s getting old but it’s serviced yearly and as I say we’ve had lots of new parts. A full pressure system flush would be good as there was evidence of gunge in the old parts but because in the summer the engineer thinks our boiler loses pressure a bit faster than what’s usually considered normal he suspects a very tiny leak (I top up pressure every 3-4 months so very tiny leak if any). Problem is a high pressure flush could cause that tiny leak become a big leak and our upstairs floorboards are very difficult to remove. Its frustrating and a bit of a catch 22. And when the time comes for a new boiler that gunge would still be in the system! Any suggestions?? Someone has suggested removing the radiators one by one and hosing them down outside. This method would not fully remove ALL gunge but would clean the radiators without risking high pressure flushes of the system. But I’m not good at DIY so would need someone to do this without ripping me off. Has anyone got suggestions for my situation?
@@xxxxxxxx3476 thanks for your kind comments. It is working now but I’ve asked him to come back tomorrow as he got a bit carried away with the pressure. He did say he was going to up the pressure a bit but it’s at 1.9 bar cold, 2.3/2.4 bar with heat on and that seems excessive. When set at 1.3 it never goes about 1.8 normally with heating on. I know how to add pressure with the two taps on the loop that’s easy but getting rid of pressure I don’t know, so he’s coming back tomorrow to do that and just have another quick check to see if all still looks ok from when he fitted that new pipe on Monday. He expected to lose some pressure this week so he set it higher but it’s lost nothing. Thanks again for your understanding. It’s like cars isn’t it? You can keep them regularly serviced but still can let you down. You are so right though, these days things are overly technical and not built to last.
I have a Main Combi Eco boiler that is located in an out house so I assume the frost protection is firing up the boiler and heating the radiators however reading elsewhere this frost protection should only heat up the water in the boiler and not in the central heating system/radiators. Is this correct?
Yes thats correct but if you have a demand for heat but the pcb is playing up it will not show any fault codes, that's what's happening to my biasi.
The 24vlink was a reason my combi boiler was never respecting the thermostat i had. Remove that link so the thermostat control works accurately
Biasi 30c advance has no heating but HW works fine. Bridged the frost therm 2 to 1 and now runs perfectly but doesn't cross 45 c. Looking like the pcb is shot on a capacitor. Anyone else faced the same issue, as I don't want to fork out £180 on a circuit board.
My thermostat is off and the boiler is continuously on and loud. Why is this
Great naming scheme, "eco" - lol, not eco whatsoever.