You need an aggregate like sand or broken up fired clay for proper setting the cement and use only a little silicate. The sodium silicate will help forming the bonds but it may take days for the final hardness to emerge. In a final step thinned sodium silicate (
When mixing before the concrete cures, the concrete isn't densified, it's altered. The densifier is for surface treatment, so if you'd want to try pre-densifying, maybe silicic acid in modest amounts, since the sodium will mess up by merely being there. Not sure I get why you'd do that though, isn't it just easier (and probably cheaper) to treat the surface?,,,, unless it's just for curious fun, to which I surely get. Thanks for uploading
i enjoy your trials. last year i gathered several substances after studying youtube on foundry , kiln and forge builds. saw how sodium silicate -water glass- can be made from good clay, water and NaOH. can be a powder, or thick soup. then watered down into useful dilutions. CO2 sets it off as water leaves over time 1% with H2O stores eggs a year. mixed in sand to make castings, CO2 is injected to cure it into glass. try between 5 to 15% premixed in the water. i use that for mixing high temp mortar to repair abused foundry walls and covers which must cure in moist conditions maybe 2 nights and 4 days in airy low sun places. fire up slowly to really dry out then fire up. they mix it thin (2-5%) to spray on new concrete walks and walls to seal them. nice to learn of lithium silicate
I think this may the similar to water stop/hydraulic cements where the densifier is a powder within the cement mix and will react with water to activate and the cement itself quickly hardens within minutes. I assume with the liquid Sodium Silicate you may need to actually dilute the sodium silicate into water before application into the cement mix to distribute it more efficiently within the cement so the cure is more consistent and reduced the rate of curing. The other thing is that the densifier a don't really make things more waterproof but I think it just makes it more difficult for water to siphon into deeper parts of the concrete. Concrete sealers I'm believe are the actual waterproofing solution that closes up the pores of the concrete to make them more "waterproof"
Exactly! Sodium Silicate solution in concentrated form is viscous because it’s an inorganic polymer. Adding concentrate directly into wet cement would never work because it would not diffuse through out in time. That is why the teat sample was crumbly on top but hard on bottom. The top portion had way too much sodium silicate. I read somewhere that more than 3% by weight of sodium silicate per weight of cement portion starts to weaken cement. Instead calculate 2% of Portland cement used and add this amount of sodium silicate to water and thoroughly dilute BEFORE adding to cement mix. The silicate should therefore be evenly dispersed and you’ll avoid the cracking and crumbling.
Adding baking soda to sodium silicate will give you that desired buble effect because it introduces extra carbon dioxide and will make it cure even faster
in ceramics - paper clay allows one to build- look it up- then the firing removes the fiber; almost petrified. in the concrete world, perlite works well. it's glass bubbles, pre-petrified. you may find sawdust could work, and i see a lot of old bricks that passed through a kiln.
Sodium Silicate it water glass and can be found in the pet section of most big stores,it is cat litter.Throw some in a pan and liquify it on the stove.Good for cracked heads on cars,put it in the radiator and run the engine till it gets to operating temp.
You might be interested in a Paul Cook video, that's his channel name, his video is called, have I made a red sandstone geoplymer same as kinver edge rock house? He used sodium silicate, but it remained strong!
ok so for building cinder blocks! we can put sodium silicate inside the water in the mix or we only can treat with pencil brush after all unto the blocks?
Far from it, I'm affraid son... For starters, you haven't even activated it with an alkali-and even after that what you end up with is far from being a polymer at all (which is chemically stable). At best, combining those materials would be the first step of geopolymerization. At that point the product is extremelly dangerous regarding it's physicochemical properties: if it stays as it is, the Na will react with the K very fast in contact with water and you get a lot of leeches. Put simply, what you have is an alkaline activated slag. More importantly, diverting slag and fly ash from use in Portland based blends to be used in geopolymer materials, it may be that the CO2 emission per tonne (m³) of the alkali-activated material will be lower than those of an equivalent standard OPC-based material. Alas, there will be no decrease-and likely an increase in the overall global CO2 emissions of the cementiceous materials sector because the CO2/m³ of Portland based materials will increase due to the lack of slag and fly ash for blending. Therefore, geopolymer cements can only contribute globally to the reduction of CO2 emissions if they primarly use minerals or industrial by-products not concurrently used as clinker substitutes in blended cements.
I saw that video as well, the concrete densifier with lithium silicate or sodium silicate can apply to the surface even after the cement is cured, because the silicate metal salt can react with the CAOH within the cement, forming a hardened crystal surface. While Dow Chemical got its strength by combining the concrete with polyurethane.
@@huangjason6557 If you really want to strengthen cement like for a foundation or building pads for homes ect all you have to do is add fiber glass to the concrete while it is in the mixer . the amount of fiberglass added is dependent on the amount of concrete you are pouring.. check with your local cement and concrete suppliers for more information.
A paper explain how to add 4% to the water before mixing to increase bonding. Normally strength is increased by adding silica fume which is slower to react.
I see your mixing the Sodium silicate with out diluting it. You have to at least cut the sodium silicate with at least 40 percent water in order to achieve your goal. s an experienced concrete finisher Sodium silicate or concrete densifier is only sprayed on top of a finished concrete surface right after the initial pour of the pad. then the concrete densifier is troweled or mechanically finished and ythe pad is allowed to cure. You can add sodium silicate on top ofa finished concrete surface but you need to clean it with hydrocloric acid to get the benifit of the sodium silicate s maxium penetration into the material. Cinderblocks can be treated by spraying a 50 percent solution but it is better to mix the SS,, into the motor mix and the troweled into the block .. have fun experimenting.. try mixing i part plaster of Paris to 3 parts motar mix and 1 part sodium silicate..
You need an aggregate like sand or broken up fired clay for proper setting the cement and use only a little silicate. The sodium silicate will help forming the bonds but it may take days for the final hardness to emerge. In a final step thinned sodium silicate (
When mixing before the concrete cures, the concrete isn't densified, it's altered. The densifier is for surface treatment, so if you'd want to try pre-densifying, maybe silicic acid in modest amounts, since the sodium will mess up by merely being there.
Not sure I get why you'd do that though, isn't it just easier (and probably cheaper) to treat the surface?,,,, unless it's just for curious fun, to which I surely get.
Thanks for uploading
If you use a tank of CO2 and spray the concrete with sodium silicate, it will seal the concrete sodium.
Thanks for sharing your experiment, good to good to know.
i enjoy your trials. last year i gathered several substances after studying youtube on foundry , kiln and forge builds. saw how sodium silicate -water glass- can be made from good clay, water and NaOH. can be a powder, or thick soup. then watered down into useful dilutions. CO2 sets it off as water leaves over time 1% with H2O stores eggs a year. mixed in sand to make castings, CO2 is injected to cure it into glass. try between 5 to 15% premixed in the water. i use that for mixing high temp mortar to repair abused foundry walls and covers which must cure in moist conditions maybe 2 nights and 4 days in airy low sun places. fire up slowly to really dry out then fire up. they mix it thin (2-5%) to spray on new concrete walks and walls to seal them. nice to learn of lithium silicate
Where did you find that method?
I think this may the similar to water stop/hydraulic cements where the densifier is a powder within the cement mix and will react with water to activate and the cement itself quickly hardens within minutes. I assume with the liquid Sodium Silicate you may need to actually dilute the sodium silicate into water before application into the cement mix to distribute it more efficiently within the cement so the cure is more consistent and reduced the rate of curing.
The other thing is that the densifier a don't really make things more waterproof but I think it just makes it more difficult for water to siphon into deeper parts of the concrete. Concrete sealers I'm believe are the actual waterproofing solution that closes up the pores of the concrete to make them more "waterproof"
Exactly! Sodium Silicate solution in concentrated form is viscous because it’s an inorganic polymer. Adding concentrate directly into wet cement would never work because it would not diffuse through out in time. That is why the teat sample was crumbly on top but hard on bottom. The top portion had way too much sodium silicate. I read somewhere that more than 3% by weight of sodium silicate per weight of cement portion starts to weaken cement. Instead calculate 2% of Portland cement used and add this amount of sodium silicate to water and thoroughly dilute BEFORE adding to cement mix. The silicate should therefore be evenly dispersed and you’ll avoid the cracking and crumbling.
thanks so much. that’s exactly what i looking
Adding baking soda to sodium silicate will give you that desired buble effect because it introduces extra carbon dioxide and will make it cure even faster
in ceramics - paper clay allows one to build- look it up- then the firing removes the fiber; almost petrified. in the concrete world, perlite works well. it's glass bubbles, pre-petrified. you may find sawdust could work, and i see a lot of old bricks that passed through a kiln.
Sodium Silicate it water glass and can be found in the pet section of most big stores,it is cat litter.Throw some in a pan and liquify it on the stove.Good for cracked heads on cars,put it in the radiator and run the engine till it gets to operating temp.
I skimmed over your comment quickly and had to read it again. I thought what the hell is he doing to the poor crack heads? Lol
No: it has to be dissolved in water and mixed with sodium hydroxide in the ratio 3:2 by weight to make waterglass.
You might be interested in a Paul Cook video, that's his channel name, his video is called, have I made a red sandstone geoplymer same as kinver edge rock house? He used sodium silicate, but it remained strong!
ok so for building cinder blocks! we can put sodium silicate inside the water in the mix or we only can treat with pencil brush after all unto the blocks?
Great experiments. Sodium silicate with fly ash is geopolymer.
Far from it, I'm affraid son... For starters, you haven't even activated it with an alkali-and even after that what you end up with is far from being a polymer at all (which is chemically stable).
At best, combining those materials would be the first step of geopolymerization. At that point the product is extremelly dangerous regarding it's physicochemical properties: if it stays as it is, the Na will react with the K very fast in contact with water and you get a lot of leeches. Put simply, what you have is an alkaline activated slag.
More importantly, diverting slag and fly ash from use in Portland based blends to be used in geopolymer materials, it may be that the CO2 emission per tonne (m³) of the alkali-activated material will be lower than those of an equivalent standard OPC-based material. Alas, there will be no decrease-and likely an increase in the overall global CO2 emissions of the cementiceous materials sector because the CO2/m³ of Portland based materials will increase due to the lack of slag and fly ash for blending. Therefore, geopolymer cements can only contribute globally to the reduction of CO2 emissions if they primarly use minerals or industrial by-products not concurrently used as clinker substitutes in blended cements.
👍👍👍
do some reading up on Geopolyimers. Whole new understanding of the resulting chemistiries
Just look up Geopolymer, very interesting, and I will try to conduct a similar experiment, thanks!
Saw a video from Dow Chemical where they are using liquid polymer only from foam as a concrete densifier, maybe use polyurethane glue.
I saw that video as well, the concrete densifier with lithium silicate or sodium silicate can apply to the surface even after the cement is cured, because the silicate metal salt can react with the CAOH within the cement, forming a hardened crystal surface.
While Dow Chemical got its strength by combining the concrete with polyurethane.
@@huangjason6557 hi :)… it’s not polímer concrete no ? The polyurethane is actually mixed with cement and add mixtures to improve strength ?… thanks !
@@huangjason6557 If you really want to strengthen cement like for a foundation or building pads for homes ect all you have to do is add fiber glass to the concrete while it is in the mixer . the amount of fiberglass added is dependent on the amount of concrete you are pouring.. check with your local cement and concrete suppliers for more information.
Sodium silicate reacts with CO2 limit exposure
A paper explain how to add 4% to the water before mixing to increase bonding. Normally strength is increased by adding silica fume which is slower to react.
do you have that pdf to share ?
I see your mixing the Sodium silicate with out diluting it. You have to at least cut the sodium silicate with at least 40 percent water in order to achieve your goal. s an experienced concrete finisher Sodium silicate or concrete densifier is only sprayed on top of a finished concrete surface right after the initial pour of the pad. then the concrete densifier is troweled or mechanically finished and ythe pad is allowed to cure. You can add sodium silicate on top ofa finished concrete surface but you need to clean it with hydrocloric acid to get the benifit of the sodium silicate s maxium penetration into the material. Cinderblocks can be treated by spraying a 50 percent solution but it is better to mix the SS,, into the motor mix and the troweled into the block .. have fun experimenting.. try mixing i part plaster of Paris to 3 parts motar mix and 1 part sodium silicate..
Thankyou sir. Just wanted to know how much quantity of sodium silicate and hydroxide should be used to create activator solution.
@@rashmipantawane2197 to make your own waterglass find on youtube nurdrage has the correct formulas
I think you are adding too much of sodium silicate in cement.