It is unfortunate that you had incomplete 3d printed parts, I’m guessing it’s either based on chance, or they have improved their printed parts becuase I was only missing a bracket for the case led pcb, and a din rail clip for the tool head breakout board, both of which were just solved with the 2 sided VHB tape included in the kit.
Glad to hear you weren't missing anything too important! My assumption is that it has improved. They were new to selling the kit when i ordered. Pinning your comment.
Make sure you print a complete set of replacement parts. Also I printed 2 extra parts of the most critical parts (like the tool head parts) and that saved my bacon more than once.
@@jasonhuskie988 I try to double up on any part that has heat set inserts. Along with making sure the part I printed is perfectly functional... never know if you slip and mess up a part. It costs less to print the part yourself instead of having someone online ship you a part when you have no other option.
Great vid, agree with the fixed bed comment - its the reason I'm thinking of getting one. One suggestion - you can run your audio through a compressor to reduce the volume changes you get when you move the mic closer/further from your mouth.
You had the same experience as me as I never printed ABS. I used an old modified CR10 in an enclosure. Worked well enough but had a little warping on the corners. Good enough to build the Voron. I went with self sourcing while also upgrading to Tiranium backers :) and the EBB36 CAN for the print head. It's far from finished, though, waiting for panels, controller (Octopus Max EZ) and cables. This printer looks really professional. It is a challenge to build and time-consuming waiting for parts to be delivered but far more rewarding and customisable. I'm very happy with it so far, even though it doesn't work yet!
Yes, Ellis tune guide is the best I have seen so far and packed with information. I have an ender 3pro and that guide has made drastic improvements to my printer
I just built the voron v0.1 kit from formbot, with some upgrade parts from LDO, west3d and fabreeko. I also got my printed parts through the PIF program. Still waiting for my first spools of ABS to show up to finally dive into ABS. My voron is printing pla really great already.
Same experience, got a V0.2 s1 kit (that has kirigami bed instead of normal) and therefor missing the small extrusions from the bed. But my PIF sent me a normal kit with the parts for extrusions instead of kirigami
I printed the voron part from pla , and aded some heatresistent paint, worked , but it was not used for loong time because i only def til i printed abs with the voron
I've heard of people doing this, and i thought about it myself, but I just wanted to save the headache of reprinting every part in abs but is definitely an option!(even if not recommended)
Love the open source and build it yourself aspect. I built a couple of OrdBot Hadron printers way back in the day. For a CoreXY printer billed as being a fast printer, your Voron 2.4 seemed to be vase printing very slowly.
Good observation! It is indeed running slower than it can print. What is happening is that the slicer is artificially slowing down the print because im printing at a 220% extrusion width, and my Revo hotend is limited on flow rate. I actually already picked up a Rapido HF hot end, just working on printing the parts to mount that one + a couple of other upgrades. Maybe I'll make a video about thay stuff too!
@@TommyBee456 - It seems that all of the accelerometer tuned CoreXY printers are speed limited by thermal hot end flow issues, including the ones with custom long melt zones and higher power ceramic heaters that completely surround the melt zone instead of a little cartridge heater in the corner of the aluminum rectangle that houses the nozzle on older 50 mm/sec 3D printers.
@@Liberty4EverI could tell you that for a lot of corexy owners including myself, speed and going fast is very low on the priority list, and is certainly not a main objective of the build
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 - I finally made it into the world of Klipper, and while faster PLA (and maybe PETG) parts are nice, my primary goal of the upgrade was improved print quality using input shaping and improved part cooling. I mostly print TPU that is material limited to slower 40-50 mm/s print speeds.
I few days ago bought x1 carbon as first printer, and since I plugged it, I didn’t stop print 😂 constantly 3 days night and day. Pla, ABS, petg, asa, and after baby steps and knowing drill per filament ech, none fails for now, I’m in positive shock. But after this video I want to build voron as side project ❤probably will it take few month after hours, but now I can 😂 But if I was starting from voron instead Bambu, probably I will ragequit after days of build and days of failed prints. Now with reference machine and source of high quality print sky is the limit.
I would title this video something more like "Building a Voron in 2023". From the original title, I was expecting a little more comparison to the competition. But way to go getting out there. Hope you do well.
I'm a big fan of open source. When getting into 3D printing, I absolutely devoured any Reprap-related material I could find. I ALMOST bought a kit like this (actually one of the earlier Vorons IIRC) years ago when getting my first printer, but I couldn't source printed parts efficiently and eventually went with a Prusa MK3 kit instead. Now that I've got a quality printer, though, I think if I ever decide I need another one, I'll go for a completely DIY design, and probably a core-XY (unless something else similarly interesting comes out in the interim).
Aside from the open sourceyness and general freedom of choice with this thing, one of its huge advantages is explicitly that you can get a bigger build plate. The Prusa-sized or Bambu sized build plates work for a lot, but a Voron can do stuff like printing a full size helmet in one go. But yeah, a lot else too, like putting in an E3D Revo hotend, which makes nozzle swaps incredibly easy which means you're way more likely to actually do them. The Bambu is great and all, but it's small-ish and it's entirely closed source all the way through, need a new nozzle? Buy one from them.
@@twanheijkoop6753i compare bambu lab to apple. Yes you can get a lot of stuff for it but it is closed. You can not do more then what they allow. Voron is the exact opposite. Everything is open and you can change whatever you want. But no support from a company. (The Voron community is way better then any company support anyway)
very useful video. Thank you. Unfortunately we do not have anyone that sells Voron Kits where I am so it will be a source it yourself deal if I build it. and that will mean I need to know what I can get before looking into the parts. Which will take time. So looking at the dent it will make in my wallet vs my sanity, I ordered a K1 :) I know I know it is not the same thing but its good enough for me. and a stepping stone I guess. When the time is right, my sanity and my wallet lines up exactly at 180 degrees :), I will build it. The amount of parts being produced for The Voron is staggering. Now you can get boards with integrated Pi, Can bus enabled parts etc which actually makes the whole process more user/builder friendly. I will definately build one but it will be a 3.0 I am guessing ;)
Lmao they did the same exact thing with my parts kit it took a month to build my voron because I had to wait 2.5 weeks for them to decide they were just gonna send me another printed parts kit which they finally did. I ended up getting a whole new parts kit though so that was cool if I ever build another one I’m like 98% there and I can print the rest now lol. I was the same as you though I just had an ender 3 in my living room and never tried to print abs I wasn’t even trying to play with it. Now that I’ve been printing in ASA all the time I don’t even think I want to go back to pla lol. ASA is so nice to print with its even better than pla imo. Pla is still great though especially tough pla that shit prints like a champ.
I can look into it. I used an ADXL to do it, but if i make i guide, i can go over input shaping by printing the test model as well since that's what i did for my other printer
@@TommyBee456 I also have a Leo kit(earlier revision) but it seems that I have to reflash the firmware to set up the input shaper kit which I’m not sure of doing yet.
Fair enough! That is the dilemma. Like i said in the video, i like tinkering, so this printer was a great option for me. Bambu Labs' printers are definitely awesome, though.
Tpu is an absolute pain in my voron 2.4, I’m useing dragon hf for my hotend for high speed pla printing. But this means that printing Tpu would be a very delicate balance between heat, and flow rate. Between heat creep and jams due to too much pressure. I still can’t get it to print reliably sooooooo.
What do you think of ASA filament? Is it structurally as good as ABS? Is it more forgiving printing wise, than ABS? I am in the early stages of putting kit together to build a Voron 2.4.
I like ASA! It feels and acts just like ABS in my experience. It feels about the same to print as ABS in terms of difficulty and stuff. Honestly, it seems exactly the same other than it is supposed to be more IV resistant.
Meters dude - you have them in your Premiere or Resolve or whatever you use there. Download a "good" video, oukk it into your editor and take note of the meters max. position with different content. When putting your piece together be aware of your sound levels. I swear, at some point i'll break my display with videos that have their music double the level of the talking or are generally so low that the next ad will blast everybody on the block out of their beds. Also there are tools to deal with your recording. Limiters, compressors, AI enhancers etc.
Same that’s how got my panels up and I printed the nevermore in petg so I didn’t kill anybody in the house lol. Soon as that was done the first thing I reprinted was the nevermore and quickly replaced everything petg lol.
Good question. You can make like separate toolheads to switch out, but that would be a manual thing. If looking into multi color/filament printing you can make something called the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder(ERCF) which is a multiple color/filament system like the prusa MMU or the Bambu AMS system but its all DIY and open source. There is also a project called the Tridex, which is an IDEX version of the Voron Trident. If you are looking for a toolchanger system like the prusa XL afaik it hasnt been made yet, but since this is all open source, nothing is stopping anyone from downloading all of the models and designing their own!
350 mm was worth it for me because i print big things, but if you dont think you'll print that big, save some money and go with a smaller one. Also, smaller ones will be more rigid and, therefore, can print with higher accelerations. As far as how it compares to the trident. I don't think there is much of a difference at all. Just different mechanisms for the Z axis. I think each machine can print as fast as the other with the same quality. I went with 2.4 because i thought the flying gantry was cool, haha.
I was thinking about building a voron, but why should i buy a kit and spend a lot of time building one when can i buy a fully assembled printer which can do the same and more ? And its way cheaper, too. I ordered the qidi max 3 and will be shipped next month. I have build all my older printers myself so far and to be honest i can skip the experience building one easily and have more time on my projects by just printing out of the box. And if necessery i can mod my printer with mmu, camera and so on.
@@alex59292 I can mod and customize my printer in the same way as a voron, just there is nothing which needs to be changed. This printer is working right out of the box, has a heated chamber and can print every filament. And while its klipper, you can add a camera or do whatever you want with it, eg. i will install the 3dChameleon MMU for printing multimaterials. And i save more then a thousand bucks and can invest that money into crazy projects and when the printer is broken i have 2 year warranty.
Oh, I filled the bags they were in with isopropyl alcohol to clean off the machine oil from the factory, but they tended to leak a bit, so I put them like that so it didn't get everywhere haha
Never get a Voron as your first 3d printer if you Don't want to be thrown in the deepend. Get a cheap bedslinger preferably with klipper. Get to know that printer and how to maintain and repair it. Should take about a half a year or so depending on how fast you learn and how much you print. Then when you have al the basics of how the steppers work, the hotend. The ins and outs of the filament and so on. Then start to source the parts for the voron and know that size and speed are connected. The 0.2 with a vulcano hotend can go way faster then the 2.4 350x. So get to know what you need and not what you want. Is the 250x bedslinger only used for small parts get the 0.2 and tune it for speed. You can print about 4x faster anyway and sometimes even faster. I have a 2.4 350 but sometimes i would still love to have the small 0.2 next to it just because everything is faster on it. Heating, heatsoaking. Just the amazing printspeed. Also the parts are way smaller and cheaper. The ultimate way to go btw if you already know you want a small and a big printer is 1 cheap bedslinger to learn basics, 2 build a 0.2 where you could even use the bedslinge to print most parts. But abs is not easy to print so i suggest to go with print it forward for the 0.2. 3 source the parts for the 2.4r2 (at moment of writing) and print all abs parts on the 0.2 yourself. How hard it is to print abs on a cheap bedslinger that is how easy the same parts are printed on any working Voron. Btw what most Forget to Mention is that you control any voron thru the screen mounted on the printer. (Can be a prusa style screen with knob or a 10 inch color touchscreen) and thru a web interface. You can realy easily update, upgrade and modify all the software thru the interface or thru putty or ftp. So in theory you could build a voron. Put it in the garage or attic. Go to your computer and do all the adjustments remotely. I have a nice touchscreen just because it looks cool. But almost never use it except for loading and unloading the filament. Or when i am modding hardware and need to move the gantry. Klipper works amazing imo. Love the thumbnails that show when printing. The spaghetti sencing works nicely of you mount a webcam. Its easy to use almost any kind of bed leveling sensor. I have a clicky but you can use induction or the tap. Or the nozzle. I don't level anymore. My printer warms up and heatsoaks. Then it levels the gantry. Then it recalibrates the z-offset (if i change the nozzle or even the whole hotend to another that is on a different height it adjust automaticly) then it makes a grid to only meshbed level the area i am going to print on, cleans the nozzle with a metal brusk and purges the nozzle before starting the print. If i put a glas surface on my buildplate it adjusts automaticly to the new height. And then i only did some mods of the many possibilities to make the voron perfect for me. And yours is going to be totally different. Yes there is a big learning curve. That s why i say go for a cheap bedslinger first to get the basics. I btw had to start with marlin because klipper was not yet available for the cheaper printers like it is now so i had to relearn the firmware/software side. I found klipper to be way easier though. Marlin you need to download. Adjust. Upload and test. With klipper you can change most things in the same webinterface as where you print. So you just click the file you wanna adjust and change the settings. Saving and restarting the firmware is one button. And then you can already test. Oh and i love inputshaper. Yes it's about the same price as a bambu lab x1 if you go for the 2.4 250x250x225 (there is a little los in height but you can mod that away if you want.) And a x1 is plug and play. But if the x1 breaks you need to get it repaired. It is also a closed system like apple has. As long as it runs its perfect. But with a Voron you build it. So you can change and repair everything. And you know how it functions. You can also print your own parts for it. If you want multimaterial you can get a carrot feeder (😂yeah that is what the mmu is called for it) there is even a guy trying to replicate the infrared sensing like the x1 has. So you can use a lazer to get the perfect lineaire advance settings. (Kinda went on a tangent here but i hope i help a newby a little with my experiences and ideas about the voron. And gave some information about how they actually funtion. 😅 Most videos only show the hardware side of it.) Tldr: if you want to tinker so you get the best 3d printer get a cheap klipper bedslinger first. Then get a Voron and be part of the Voron masterrace 😂.
Let me see if I got this right. People are willing to spend $1,500 bucks for a printer that they assemble themselves from a kit with hundreds of parts (some of which were wrong) whilst reading a 300-odd page manual? How do I meet these people?
So, it's printing vase mode with a 200% extrusion width, and it caps out the volumetric flow rate of my Revo hotend. One of the first upgrades I'm going to do actually is a high flow hotend! Stay tuned for that video(maybe Voron Tap, too).
That's actually a great question. It is because i am printing at 200% extrusion width, the slicer is artificially slowing down the print speed because the Revo Voron hotend can not melt enough plastic fast enough. Stay tuned for another video where I install a proper highflow hotend(Rapido) and really start pushing this machine's print speed.
@@TommyBee456 neat! I have a 350 2.4 as well, and I’ve encountered the limitations of flow rate. The LDO kit is super fancy. Mine isn’t that nice. I actually also bought a Rapido, but I’ve found that the kinematics of the 350 can’t even come close to maxing it out without input shaper severely oversmoothing. You run into a wall with Stealthburner cooling with ABS pretty quickly also. XOL is also very worth it. My most effective mod by far has been bed fans. Chamber gets hotter faster. Before, I was stuck at 47C, and with bed fans and a little insulation, I’m getting 70.
@Flumphinator i actually already installed the nevermore which helps the airflow for the chamber and that has been helping tons for asa and abs. Also, switching to smooth PEI helped a lot, too. But yea! The mantis XOL2 will probably be part of the upgrade with the rapido. I feel a little limited by the stealthburner itself.
@@TommyBee456 SB is really good because it’s accessible for the core design, which relates to the open source nature of the Voron project. It’s super versatile, looks really nice, and it’s buildable with just printed parts and commonly available components. But it is *heavy* and doesn’t have enough airflow to push a good hotend. The weight is extra important for a 350. Ditching the cable chains and building a toolhead with CANbus or an umbilical design will also significantly increase your attainable acceleration, and is really an easy mod if you can get the parts (an EBB36/U2C is like $40 in the US, and vendors like Fabreeko and KB3D sell good CAN cables). Light gantry beams are a waste of time on a 350. Good luck!
I have 2 vorons an they both are not that great with pla no matter what I have done still just ugly pla prints imo especially the overhangs. They will print abs flawless though
@chris fuesler might be the pla filament itself. Brand, wet filament, something else, idk. I hope you figure it out, though! You should be able to get good pla prints.
I've counted that if I multiply my per hour wage with the build time of this voron machine, it would cost me 1700 dollars. So I pass. I'll just buy some pre-built coreXY printer.
Forsure! I feel lucky to be at a point in my life where i can afford it(I didnt still have to save up for it), but much of the value to me was actually learning, building, and tuning the machine. It was a lot of fun. However, it is definitely not the most cost-effective way of getting a core xy machine. There are much better options out there.
Vorons are great, just don't subscribe to a RUclipsr community, they ignore the RUclips community beyond the videos and force you to use 3rd party software to be involved in the "subscriber" community. After 3 months of being excluded from literally everything because I don't use 3rd party software I left and have not looked back. I'd request a refund if I could!
Dude it is P1P. Not what you said. It is input shaper not "input shaping". Not a bad video but you might want to have a veteran 3D printer enthusiast watch/edit the video before you post.
My man, your audio setup is abysmal. Loud music, quiet voice that barley registers on the mic and only thing you hear is pop filter failing at its job Best of luck for the future
Voron is a bunch of very expensive and very stupid engeneering solutions. Especially 2.4. The only good thing about this project is how it looks. If you don't have much money just buy a good bedslinger and convert it to Klipper. It will print almost any filament as fast as Voron, but for quater of the price. If you have money to spend, buy Bambulab. It is just a well designed, well built and well tuned machine, which prints out of the box. Much better than any Voron.
Наука
![Young Nudy - John Wayne (feat. Metro Boomin) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NY8HnYYo2fo/mqdefault.jpg)
It is unfortunate that you had incomplete 3d printed parts, I’m guessing it’s either based on chance, or they have improved their printed parts becuase I was only missing a bracket for the case led pcb, and a din rail clip for the tool head breakout board, both of which were just solved with the 2 sided VHB tape included in the kit.
Glad to hear you weren't missing anything too important! My assumption is that it has improved. They were new to selling the kit when i ordered. Pinning your comment.
Make sure you print a complete set of replacement parts. Also I printed 2 extra parts of the most critical parts (like the tool head parts) and that saved my bacon more than once.
This is the smartest comment I have seen in 2023 for DIY.
@@jasonhuskie988 I try to double up on any part that has heat set inserts. Along with making sure the part I printed is perfectly functional... never know if you slip and mess up a part. It costs less to print the part yourself instead of having someone online ship you a part when you have no other option.
I learned this the hard way with my Prusa. :)
Great content, way better than I was expecting from a new creator, keep it up, subbed
Hi Tommy, pretty solid start, and thanks for sharing your experience.
Great intro to the Voron. Also, a wonderfully fresh approach to presenting. I feel like you’d be a great standup comedian if you wanted!
Great vid, agree with the fixed bed comment - its the reason I'm thinking of getting one.
One suggestion - you can run your audio through a compressor to reduce the volume changes you get when you move the mic closer/further from your mouth.
You had the same experience as me as I never printed ABS. I used an old modified CR10 in an enclosure. Worked well enough but had a little warping on the corners. Good enough to build the Voron. I went with self sourcing while also upgrading to Tiranium backers :) and the EBB36 CAN for the print head. It's far from finished, though, waiting for panels, controller (Octopus Max EZ) and cables. This printer looks really professional. It is a challenge to build and time-consuming waiting for parts to be delivered but far more rewarding and customisable. I'm very happy with it so far, even though it doesn't work yet!
Nice video. Audio tip: compress your mic recording in order to regularize its volume when you vary the distance from your mouth
Thanks for the tip! Still figuring out this video editing thing haha
Yes, Ellis tune guide is the best I have seen so far and packed with information. I have an ender 3pro and that guide has made drastic improvements to my printer
Thanks for sharing your journey.
Good Vid. Keep up the great work.
Baller printer, I specifically like that the documentation is so thorough and the community is the opposite of reddit
Yep! It was super easy to find the answers to any questions I had. People are also very nice in the discord in my experience.
Fantastic video considering there are so many voron videos now I wasn't sure. But I ended up watching the whole thing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video !
I loved the build. I printed all of my parts on Ender3v2 with ASA. So all my parts are ASA.
great topic, thanks 👍👍
I just built the voron v0.1 kit from formbot, with some upgrade parts from LDO, west3d and fabreeko. I also got my printed parts through the PIF program. Still waiting for my first spools of ABS to show up to finally dive into ABS. My voron is printing pla really great already.
Show us some prints! Great video btw! Awesome!
Same experience, got a V0.2 s1 kit (that has kirigami bed instead of normal) and therefor missing the small extrusions from the bed. But my PIF sent me a normal kit with the parts for extrusions instead of kirigami
open source, easy to upgrade, completely customizable - makes sense
I printed the voron part from pla , and aded some heatresistent paint, worked , but it was not used for loong time because i only def til i printed abs with the voron
I've heard of people doing this, and i thought about it myself, but I just wanted to save the headache of reprinting every part in abs but is definitely an option!(even if not recommended)
Love the open source and build it yourself aspect. I built a couple of OrdBot Hadron printers way back in the day. For a CoreXY printer billed as being a fast printer, your Voron 2.4 seemed to be vase printing very slowly.
Good observation! It is indeed running slower than it can print. What is happening is that the slicer is artificially slowing down the print because im printing at a 220% extrusion width, and my Revo hotend is limited on flow rate. I actually already picked up a Rapido HF hot end, just working on printing the parts to mount that one + a couple of other upgrades. Maybe I'll make a video about thay stuff too!
@@TommyBee456 - It seems that all of the accelerometer tuned CoreXY printers are speed limited by thermal hot end flow issues, including the ones with custom long melt zones and higher power ceramic heaters that completely surround the melt zone instead of a little cartridge heater in the corner of the aluminum rectangle that houses the nozzle on older 50 mm/sec 3D printers.
@@Liberty4EverI could tell you that for a lot of corexy owners including myself, speed and going fast is very low on the priority list, and is certainly not a main objective of the build
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 - I finally made it into the world of Klipper, and while faster PLA (and maybe PETG) parts are nice, my primary goal of the upgrade was improved print quality using input shaping and improved part cooling. I mostly print TPU that is material limited to slower 40-50 mm/s print speeds.
I few days ago bought x1 carbon as first printer, and since I plugged it, I didn’t stop print 😂 constantly 3 days night and day. Pla, ABS, petg, asa, and after baby steps and knowing drill per filament ech, none fails for now, I’m in positive shock.
But after this video I want to build voron as side project ❤probably will it take few month after hours, but now I can 😂
But if I was starting from voron instead Bambu, probably I will ragequit after days of build and days of failed prints. Now with reference machine and source of high quality print sky is the limit.
I would title this video something more like "Building a Voron in 2023". From the original title, I was expecting a little more comparison to the competition. But way to go getting out there. Hope you do well.
OR ... you could buy the Troodon 2.0, which basically is a Voron 2.4 350x350 pre-assembled (with injection-moulded parts).
I'm a big fan of open source. When getting into 3D printing, I absolutely devoured any Reprap-related material I could find. I ALMOST bought a kit like this (actually one of the earlier Vorons IIRC) years ago when getting my first printer, but I couldn't source printed parts efficiently and eventually went with a Prusa MK3 kit instead. Now that I've got a quality printer, though, I think if I ever decide I need another one, I'll go for a completely DIY design, and probably a core-XY (unless something else similarly interesting comes out in the interim).
Aside from the open sourceyness and general freedom of choice with this thing, one of its huge advantages is explicitly that you can get a bigger build plate. The Prusa-sized or Bambu sized build plates work for a lot, but a Voron can do stuff like printing a full size helmet in one go. But yeah, a lot else too, like putting in an E3D Revo hotend, which makes nozzle swaps incredibly easy which means you're way more likely to actually do them. The Bambu is great and all, but it's small-ish and it's entirely closed source all the way through, need a new nozzle? Buy one from them.
Luckily closed source doesn't mean there's no other companies providing parts. It's just that you most likely have to go out of your way to find them
@@twanheijkoop6753i compare bambu lab to apple. Yes you can get a lot of stuff for it but it is closed. You can not do more then what they allow. Voron is the exact opposite. Everything is open and you can change whatever you want. But no support from a company. (The Voron community is way better then any company support anyway)
Just keep making videos 👍👍
That's the plan!
Welcome to Voron!
very useful video. Thank you.
Unfortunately we do not have anyone that sells Voron Kits where I am so it will be a source it yourself deal if I build it. and that will mean I need to know what I can get before looking into the parts. Which will take time. So looking at the dent it will make in my wallet vs my sanity, I ordered a K1 :) I know I know it is not the same thing but its good enough for me. and a stepping stone I guess. When the time is right, my sanity and my wallet lines up exactly at 180 degrees :), I will build it. The amount of parts being produced for The Voron is staggering. Now you can get boards with integrated Pi, Can bus enabled parts etc which actually makes the whole process more user/builder friendly.
I will definately build one but it will be a 3.0 I am guessing ;)
thx
I was going to buy a new fancy bambu or something but I decided to get new bench gear instead
Lmao they did the same exact thing with my parts kit it took a month to build my voron because I had to wait 2.5 weeks for them to decide they were just gonna send me another printed parts kit which they finally did.
I ended up getting a whole new parts kit though so that was cool if I ever build another one I’m like 98% there and I can print the rest now lol.
I was the same as you though I just had an ender 3 in my living room and never tried to print abs I wasn’t even trying to play with it.
Now that I’ve been printing in ASA all the time I don’t even think I want to go back to pla lol. ASA is so nice to print with its even better than pla imo.
Pla is still great though especially tough pla that shit prints like a champ.
i have built multiple vorons and once you tune them they are fast perfect printers
Can you do a guild for input shaping? The firmware side seems a bit whired and I’m not exactly sure how to do it.
I can look into it. I used an ADXL to do it, but if i make i guide, i can go over input shaping by printing the test model as well since that's what i did for my other printer
@@TommyBee456 I also have a Leo kit(earlier revision) but it seems that I have to reflash the firmware to set up the input shaper kit which I’m not sure of doing yet.
i've built 5 printers and always wanted to build a voron but i will definitely buy a bambu if I ever need another one xD
Fair enough! That is the dilemma. Like i said in the video, i like tinkering, so this printer was a great option for me. Bambu Labs' printers are definitely awesome, though.
Honestly the shipping speed with pif is really fast I had my ordered parts in a week after I put in my order
Glad to hear that! It probably just depends on how far the person making the parts lives from you. PIF is definitely a great option.
Tpu is an absolute pain in my voron 2.4, I’m useing dragon hf for my hotend for high speed pla printing. But this means that printing Tpu would be a very delicate balance between heat, and flow rate. Between heat creep and jams due to too much pressure. I still can’t get it to print reliably sooooooo.
Interesting. I have some 95A tpu which is supposedly easier to print but i haven't tried yet. Are you using the clockwork 2 extruder?
Also polymaker makes a hf tpu that could be worth trying
@@TommyBee456 moded cw1 with 0 exchouder gap, the pressure is so high that the filiment start to zigzag and expand which jams it.
Also overture 95a
@@TommyBee456 dragon hf (triangle lab)/s heat sink isn’t super good sooo it could be a hotend thing.
I used to have that function generator haha
What do you think of ASA filament? Is it structurally as good as ABS? Is it more forgiving printing wise, than ABS? I am in the early stages of putting kit together to build a Voron 2.4.
I like ASA! It feels and acts just like ABS in my experience. It feels about the same to print as ABS in terms of difficulty and stuff. Honestly, it seems exactly the same other than it is supposed to be more IV resistant.
@@TommyBee456 👍👍
Meters dude - you have them in your Premiere or Resolve or whatever you use there. Download a "good" video, oukk it into your editor and take note of the meters max. position with different content. When putting your piece together be aware of your sound levels. I swear, at some point i'll break my display with videos that have their music double the level of the talking or are generally so low that the next ad will blast everybody on the block out of their beds.
Also there are tools to deal with your recording. Limiters, compressors, AI enhancers etc.
I bought the same kit. The ldo is just a way better kit. I printed my parts out of petg and they lasted long enough to print abs on the voron.
Haha, I have heard of people doing that. Definitely something i could've done, but i was impatient...
Same that’s how got my panels up and I printed the nevermore in petg so I didn’t kill anybody in the house lol.
Soon as that was done the first thing I reprinted was the nevermore and quickly replaced everything petg lol.
Good video. I suggest making the music quieter.
Noted!
It would be very nice if you would build "THE 100". Its a very cheap alternative to a voron
Oh interesting Ill look into it. I definitely want to do another build and if I do I'll forsure make another video. Thanks!
Matt is perfectly fine in English English.
Can you add multiple extruders for swap out?
Good question. You can make like separate toolheads to switch out, but that would be a manual thing. If looking into multi color/filament printing you can make something called the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder(ERCF) which is a multiple color/filament system like the prusa MMU or the Bambu AMS system but its all DIY and open source. There is also a project called the Tridex, which is an IDEX version of the Voron Trident. If you are looking for a toolchanger system like the prusa XL afaik it hasnt been made yet, but since this is all open source, nothing is stopping anyone from downloading all of the models and designing their own!
Is the 350mm worth it? Also is the 2.4 better than a trident?
350 mm was worth it for me because i print big things, but if you dont think you'll print that big, save some money and go with a smaller one. Also, smaller ones will be more rigid and, therefore, can print with higher accelerations. As far as how it compares to the trident. I don't think there is much of a difference at all. Just different mechanisms for the Z axis. I think each machine can print as fast as the other with the same quality. I went with 2.4 because i thought the flying gantry was cool, haha.
I was thinking about building a voron, but why should i buy a kit and spend a lot of time building one when can i buy a fully assembled printer which can do the same and more ? And its way cheaper, too.
I ordered the qidi max 3 and will be shipped next month.
I have build all my older printers myself so far and to be honest i can skip the experience building one easily and have more time on my projects by just printing out of the box. And if necessery i can mod my printer with mmu, camera and so on.
Building is more fun and customisable
@@alex59292 I can mod and customize my printer in the same way as a voron, just there is nothing which needs to be changed. This printer is working right out of the box, has a heated chamber and can print every filament. And while its klipper, you can add a camera or do whatever you want with it, eg. i will install the 3dChameleon MMU for printing multimaterials. And i save more then a thousand bucks and can invest that money into crazy projects and when the printer is broken i have 2 year warranty.
2:50 What were you doing to the rails with them standing up in a container?
Oh, I filled the bags they were in with isopropyl alcohol to clean off the machine oil from the factory, but they tended to leak a bit, so I put them like that so it didn't get everywhere haha
@@TommyBee456 So not trying to grow more rails. :)
I forgot about that, even though I've had to do that myself with bearings before.
9:30 Printer: Job's done, b!tch
This might make me go get a Voron.....
You won't regret it
Mine will be here tomorrow
Never get a Voron as your first 3d printer if you Don't want to be thrown in the deepend. Get a cheap bedslinger preferably with klipper. Get to know that printer and how to maintain and repair it. Should take about a half a year or so depending on how fast you learn and how much you print. Then when you have al the basics of how the steppers work, the hotend. The ins and outs of the filament and so on. Then start to source the parts for the voron and know that size and speed are connected. The 0.2 with a vulcano hotend can go way faster then the 2.4 350x. So get to know what you need and not what you want. Is the 250x bedslinger only used for small parts get the 0.2 and tune it for speed. You can print about 4x faster anyway and sometimes even faster. I have a 2.4 350 but sometimes i would still love to have the small 0.2 next to it just because everything is faster on it. Heating, heatsoaking. Just the amazing printspeed. Also the parts are way smaller and cheaper. The ultimate way to go btw if you already know you want a small and a big printer is 1 cheap bedslinger to learn basics, 2 build a 0.2 where you could even use the bedslinge to print most parts. But abs is not easy to print so i suggest to go with print it forward for the 0.2. 3 source the parts for the 2.4r2 (at moment of writing) and print all abs parts on the 0.2 yourself. How hard it is to print abs on a cheap bedslinger that is how easy the same parts are printed on any working Voron. Btw what most Forget to Mention is that you control any voron thru the screen mounted on the printer. (Can be a prusa style screen with knob or a 10 inch color touchscreen) and thru a web interface. You can realy easily update, upgrade and modify all the software thru the interface or thru putty or ftp. So in theory you could build a voron. Put it in the garage or attic. Go to your computer and do all the adjustments remotely. I have a nice touchscreen just because it looks cool. But almost never use it except for loading and unloading the filament. Or when i am modding hardware and need to move the gantry. Klipper works amazing imo. Love the thumbnails that show when printing. The spaghetti sencing works nicely of you mount a webcam. Its easy to use almost any kind of bed leveling sensor. I have a clicky but you can use induction or the tap. Or the nozzle. I don't level anymore. My printer warms up and heatsoaks. Then it levels the gantry. Then it recalibrates the z-offset (if i change the nozzle or even the whole hotend to another that is on a different height it adjust automaticly) then it makes a grid to only meshbed level the area i am going to print on, cleans the nozzle with a metal brusk and purges the nozzle before starting the print. If i put a glas surface on my buildplate it adjusts automaticly to the new height. And then i only did some mods of the many possibilities to make the voron perfect for me. And yours is going to be totally different. Yes there is a big learning curve. That s why i say go for a cheap bedslinger first to get the basics. I btw had to start with marlin because klipper was not yet available for the cheaper printers like it is now so i had to relearn the firmware/software side. I found klipper to be way easier though. Marlin you need to download. Adjust. Upload and test. With klipper you can change most things in the same webinterface as where you print. So you just click the file you wanna adjust and change the settings. Saving and restarting the firmware is one button. And then you can already test. Oh and i love inputshaper. Yes it's about the same price as a bambu lab x1 if you go for the 2.4 250x250x225 (there is a little los in height but you can mod that away if you want.) And a x1 is plug and play. But if the x1 breaks you need to get it repaired. It is also a closed system like apple has. As long as it runs its perfect. But with a Voron you build it. So you can change and repair everything. And you know how it functions. You can also print your own parts for it. If you want multimaterial you can get a carrot feeder (😂yeah that is what the mmu is called for it) there is even a guy trying to replicate the infrared sensing like the x1 has. So you can use a lazer to get the perfect lineaire advance settings. (Kinda went on a tangent here but i hope i help a newby a little with my experiences and ideas about the voron. And gave some information about how they actually funtion. 😅 Most videos only show the hardware side of it.)
Tldr: if you want to tinker so you get the best 3d printer get a cheap klipper bedslinger first. Then get a Voron and be part of the Voron masterrace 😂.
better mic and this would be perfect ;-) anyhoe..watched it with interest , thnx
9:32 woah dude you have automatic print removal?!?!?
-_-
FYI in German language "matt" = frosted
Let me see if I got this right. People are willing to spend $1,500 bucks for a printer that they assemble themselves from a kit with hundreds of parts (some of which were wrong) whilst reading a 300-odd page manual? How do I meet these people?
Yea and I enjoyed it lol
Скорость зачет
You holding the mic looks kind of weird😅
why print so slow of yours
So, it's printing vase mode with a 200% extrusion width, and it caps out the volumetric flow rate of my Revo hotend. One of the first upgrades I'm going to do actually is a high flow hotend! Stay tuned for that video(maybe Voron Tap, too).
Friendly suggestion...increase your video volume....you are under the RUclips average and i had to increase volume to even hear you.
Noted!
Mic wasn't always aimed right so the levels were variable, didn't have trouble hearing though. A lavalier (aka lapel) microphone helps with that.
Why you running it so slow?
That's actually a great question. It is because i am printing at 200% extrusion width, the slicer is artificially slowing down the print speed because the Revo Voron hotend can not melt enough plastic fast enough. Stay tuned for another video where I install a proper highflow hotend(Rapido) and really start pushing this machine's print speed.
@@TommyBee456 neat! I have a 350 2.4 as well, and I’ve encountered the limitations of flow rate. The LDO kit is super fancy. Mine isn’t that nice.
I actually also bought a Rapido, but I’ve found that the kinematics of the 350 can’t even come close to maxing it out without input shaper severely oversmoothing. You run into a wall with Stealthburner cooling with ABS pretty quickly also. XOL is also very worth it.
My most effective mod by far has been bed fans. Chamber gets hotter faster. Before, I was stuck at 47C, and with bed fans and a little insulation, I’m getting 70.
@Flumphinator i actually already installed the nevermore which helps the airflow for the chamber and that has been helping tons for asa and abs. Also, switching to smooth PEI helped a lot, too. But yea! The mantis XOL2 will probably be part of the upgrade with the rapido. I feel a little limited by the stealthburner itself.
@@TommyBee456 SB is really good because it’s accessible for the core design, which relates to the open source nature of the Voron project. It’s super versatile, looks really nice, and it’s buildable with just printed parts and commonly available components. But it is *heavy* and doesn’t have enough airflow to push a good hotend. The weight is extra important for a 350.
Ditching the cable chains and building a toolhead with CANbus or an umbilical design will also significantly increase your attainable acceleration, and is really an easy mod if you can get the parts (an EBB36/U2C is like $40 in the US, and vendors like Fabreeko and KB3D sell good CAN cables). Light gantry beams are a waste of time on a 350.
Good luck!
Criminally unsubscribed channel... you just hit 381 (me)
Thanks for the sub! I just realized I was not subbed to you. So you just gained one too :)
I have 2 vorons an they both are not that great with pla no matter what I have done still just ugly pla prints imo especially the overhangs. They will print abs flawless though
Interesting, I've had no problems with PLA. Are you using the stealthburner? I read the part cooling is much better than the afterburner
@@TommyBee456 I am using the stealthburner
@chris fuesler might be the pla filament itself. Brand, wet filament, something else, idk. I hope you figure it out, though! You should be able to get good pla prints.
I built a 0.2 because I thought the smaller one would be easier. Haha, whoops
Haha yea having the large frame certainly made things like wiring much easier for me. Can't imagine how it would be on a 0.2
It's a printer for ethusiasts / tinkerers and no one else.
Now orca slider is a winner:)
I've counted that if I multiply my per hour wage with the build time of this voron machine, it would cost me 1700 dollars. So I pass. I'll just buy some pre-built coreXY printer.
Forsure! I feel lucky to be at a point in my life where i can afford it(I didnt still have to save up for it), but much of the value to me was actually learning, building, and tuning the machine. It was a lot of fun. However, it is definitely not the most cost-effective way of getting a core xy machine. There are much better options out there.
no
It's so last month. Haha wtf?
Vorons are great, just don't subscribe to a RUclipsr community, they ignore the RUclips community beyond the videos and force you to use 3rd party software to be involved in the "subscriber" community. After 3 months of being excluded from literally everything because I don't use 3rd party software I left and have not looked back. I'd request a refund if I could!
Dude it is P1P. Not what you said. It is input shaper not "input shaping". Not a bad video but you might want to have a veteran 3D printer enthusiast watch/edit the video before you post.
If you are going to use a hand held mic, don't turn it away from your mouth as you talk.
eh prusa alpha is better
bro your mic.... Sooooo inconsistent ... Rest 5 star video..
Haha, thank you! Still new to editing and filming, so I am working on it
Buy a Bambu and be happy!!!
My man, your audio setup is abysmal. Loud music, quiet voice that barley registers on the mic and only thing you hear is pop filter failing at its job
Best of luck for the future
Voron is a bunch of very expensive and very stupid engeneering solutions. Especially 2.4. The only good thing about this project is how it looks.
If you don't have much money just buy a good bedslinger and convert it to Klipper. It will print almost any filament as fast as Voron, but for quater of the price.
If you have money to spend, buy Bambulab. It is just a well designed, well built and well tuned machine, which prints out of the box. Much better than any Voron.