I'm downloading this to use for future reference. I did the same with your mount/dismount video to make my own. I live in Alaska and summer/winter tire change over is big money and a royal pain cause nobody puts their snow tires on till the first snow flies, then you have to wait a week because all the shops are backed up. Now I do my own and even make a few bucks off my neighbors. Fantastic tips and money saving content. I appreciate it.
Always dropping knowledge my man. I don’t comment on your videos much but you remind me of my father (May he Rest In Peace) who taught me so much as a young man. Thanks for all you informative videos 👍🏼👍🏼
Just as an fyi, I've been using a ES5000 booster pac (I think) I got on ebay for 9 years now. It'll jumpstart anything, even a big diesel cat 416 backhoe without a battery in it, on a cold morning. But it's 9 years old now. I think the reason it's lasted this long is because I can't remember the last time I plugged it into it's wall charger. It's so good that for most things like my mf135 diesel tractor, I don't even keep a battery in it, and just use this jumpbox. So it gets recharged by the charging system of whatever it jumpstarted. And the things are still around the same price I paid 9 years ago (around $125). And no, I'm not affiliated in any way. It's just how fast it turns things over, and now 9 years and going strong.
Thanks, I just bought one based on your high praise of it. I have one of the boosters like Moe is showing and it has worked well for me but I am not going to replace the batteries when they die, with the ES5000, it's a simple battery swap if you ever need to replace it.
Yeah, the es5000 has a lead acid battery like these all do. It looks like the es5000 has a bigger than most 22ah battery. My yellow one and dozens others I have repaired have 18ah batteries(some cheaper ones have even smaller batteries). It all about how you care for it and those wall chargers can be brutal. I need to repair my yellow one as the battery is pushing 6-7 years now. I think I'm going for a 22ah lead acid this time. I run quit a few things straight off of it and that is what I miss about the lithium packs.
NOCO Boost HD I have a 2000a model. Has an over ride feature that allows you to use it as a standalone battery or start a battery with 0 volts. I have used mine to run a VW without a battery and to power a small winch without issue
What kind of charge level indication does it have on that pack? 9 years is impressive, you did well with the benign neglect by not giving it a loving charge and keeping its belly full all the time 😉
Smashing repair/upgrade 😀 I was amazed with the tiny jump pack when they first became available. Then in the blink of an eye everyone had one 😀 The only thing that i saw as being crappy was the quality of the crock clips, they don't always make enough surface contact for high currents. But that can be fixed with heavy duty ones with a powerfull spring. I never get bored seeing your dog, she is loverly.
You must be talking about Durite and Sealey. I bought a Durite Li-Ion pack and despite initial misgivings, it works really well- starting cars and commercial vehicles alike. But the same problem- broken crocodile clips. They've got so much Gorilla glue on them now that they're weakened. But the unit is designed to house these clips neatly and I can't find replacements that fit properly. A pain.
Awesome rebuild. I bought one of these a year ago on recommendation of Sweet Project Cars here on RUclips, and I love it. The ability to start large V8 motors even in the freezing cold is amazing. And you can get several jumps out of mine before recharging. I paid around sixty bucks for mine, so the ability to rebuild it for half price makes good sense!
I’m always impressed by your ingenuity and willingness to tackle some of these fixes … especially in modifying existing plastic cases to work with new internals that are too big for the original case. I’m sure many others like myself have encountered similar possibilities but have given up before even attempting because common sense would say it’s too much effort for the gain and the end result would no longer be sufficiently rugged or aesthetically acceptable. But if I take what you’ve shown on countless videos and combine it with a precision hot plastic welding tool and the correct filler plastic I think I could tackle some of the projects I abandoned and get a result that could pass initial looks as OEM with some practice. Your channel as been immensely helpful to me on more than just a few occasions. Please know that the time and effort put into filming and the way you present things makes you one of my favorites for referring people to learn about their similar projects.
I bought one of those jump boxes after seeing your initial review a couple of years ago and I gotta say, I’m super impressed with it as well. My wife keeps it in her trunk but I’ve used it to jump start my diesel truck with dead dual batteries.
@@sixtyfiveford what was the use pattern of your jump pack in the years it was in service? Did you use it and charge it on a regular basis? Normally when lithium polymer batteries are stored with a full charge or discharged they'll degrade quicker than if they're kept at mid charge. If you just charge it and leave it in the trunk for a year at a time between use, will they still maintain full function for the years to come?
A very good and informative video, especially for those who don't know how these work. I have a make that is probably not available in USA (Sealey, RS235) and my first one was 12V/24V for commercial engines and I started a 12 litre V12. Though unlike the one in the video here, I could start engines several times over without any problems at all- charging perhaps only once per week or so. I replaced the lead acid batteries with two tiny motorbike batteries from Yuasa and the record is starting a 14 litre V12 from them. Twice. Eventually when that pack gave up entirely, I bought a replacement and that struggled to start a 2l petrol engine. Agree entirely with the Li-Ion system though. I can easily start a 4 or 6 litre diesel (24V) without any form of vehicle battery present, which from a box only a few inches square is quite incredible. I have a 7 litre 6 cylinder Volvo in the yard with flat batteries. Out of complete curiosity, I am going to see if the Li-Ion system will start that without any vehicle battery present (ie disconnected). Excellent videos- not just this one, but your others too.
i just bought a cheap one of these and it jumps my diesel international tractor that sits in the paddock using 5% battery each time with no problems, im quite impressed, those batteries can become a white hot fire if wired wrong i recommend having something to contain it made out of metal, those big ones take up to much room love your dog
I bought a little set of gator clip “helping hands” from Harbor Freight for cheap. I didn’t think I’d ever use it, until I did once. Now I find I’m looking for electronics projects because of how nice it was to work like a gentleman. Another awesome video man!
I bought one on the sale rack,for 10$. It started my 454 without the battery hooked up. After 6 months, and leaving in my car in IL winter.. the batterys, no longer work. I wanted to do exactly what your doing in this video. Love your channel 👍. Thanks again for sharing 👍 😀
One tip to people working with high discharge batteries. Cut one wire at a time. A few years ago I cut straight across the positive and negative wires of lipo for a RC craft, which were together like you see for an electrical appliance, and wow did that make a spark.
Badass, I have one that had been awesome for a year or so with heavy use, I stupidly left it in a very hot car parked for a week with the jumper cables and volt meter attached and it killed the batteries and the swelled up, I'm also replacing the battery packs in it but I'm glad I came across this video to confirm it's possible. Awesome job and thank you
I did learn something crucial from viewers comments on these lipo cells. They hate being stored at full charge and only have about a 1-year life if done so. Full charge is about 4.2 volts/cell or 16.8v/pack. They do however increase their lifespan 10 to 20 times by storing them at 3.8-3.85 volts/cell which is 3/4 charge (15.2-15.4/pack). I've been doing this and it still works fantastic for jump starting. I haven't found anything I can't jump start that I did at full charge with 3/4 charge.
I have use the older jumper for several years. Hard to jump cars with it now but still good for the lawn mowers. Plus I hooked it up to my grandsons Gator that he loved to ride. I got my $$ out of it. Nice swap with the batteries. Stay well, Joe Z
I still have my TrekPow jumper, this reminded me to refresh it. I've found that they need to get a work out after sitting a while. The 4 light indicator still showed 4, but on the load tester it only had 200 amps. The 2nd load test 400 and the 3rd 800. Then I put it on the charger, it is charging this very moment. The 1st one I got in 2018 died in 2019, I had contacted them and they sent me a new one in 2019. I think they had a 1 year warranty. Looking up my emails, I had emailed them in April 19 and they responded back with an email in August. They stood behind their product.
That's great of them. It looks like TrekPow is no longer a brand and they changed it to NexPow(or something like that). Are you load testing it straight off a 100amp battery load tester?
@@wingspan99 do the instruction manuals on any of these lipo jump packs advise keeping them stored at mid charge? Seems they have to balance between warranty and sales. Telling prospective customers their product could be damaged from their normal use might dissuade the customers from buying, so mum's the word might be the better option, they figure. If everyone started getting warranty replacements after a year it'd be costly for the company.
I just read the literature that came with the new lipo cells and it does say to not store at full charge as it will drastically reduce the performance. It says to store at approx 3.8v for any storage over a few days. I put mine to 15.4volts(3.85v/cell) which is still 3 out of 4 dots on the meter. It will still give me at least 6-7 good starting attempts on a V-8 engine so I'm not worried. If I'm going to rescue someone I can always plug it into my cig plug as I drive to give it a full charge.
These cells are common for radio controlled toys and my links likely don't work but I'm sure you can get them in Canada. You just have to pay a lot more for them like everything in Canada.
I made a few jump packs out of 18650 cells out of laptop packs , they work AWESOME ! crank very well .. Fixed any of the Lipo packs and for the money I still like the old yeller ! The Lipo are more compact and store easy .. ENJOYED !!
I had a lead acid one that went bad. So I took the clamps with cables of it, put on quick battery connectors (where you fold it up to release) for lead acid batteries, and now I use the cables with a slightly worn car battery. Basically a battery and jumper cables, but the jumper cables are neater. It is not a direct replacement for either, but a nice hack with what I had, and the capacity is whatever your loose battery is.
Good video, I love doing that type stuff because I like to tinker and I have tons of batteries I can build any pack with. However, you should mention that for just $20 more or on sale you can simply just buy a new jumper box. I use them myself to provide a few more CCA's to tractors that do not have a compression release. One last thing to note, be careful of the amperage it can deliver, I lost 4 solenoids in a row before I realized it wasn't cheap solenoids, the jump box was producing too many amps on startup, they can literally DUMP amps into a starter.
Another informative, entertaining video. Definitely will be doing the same when mine kicks the bucket. Extra love for your doggo getting super excited when you were cranking the lawnmower!
Another great video on showing everyone how to save our money and to repair the most essential things we all use in our daily life..you are the greatest..and we all love Ginger too.. Cheers friend 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks for your video. I am absolutely impressed and amazed by your skill and ability to select and connect new batteries and revise the case to hold them. Your problem-solving thinking is top notch. One improvement (which would make all the time and effort worth doing the repair on a failed unit) is to employ connectors which would provide for the next battery replacement to be unplugging the old batteries and plugging in the new batteries. I believe that if you would build connector yokes, people like me would gladly buy them. My jump starter failed after 3 years with very little use. I can't see doing as much soldering as you did every 3 years, but I can see replacing battery packs by unplugging the old and plugging in the new batteries. rc55
Yeah, Acid Flux isn't idea for circuit boards but it can't be beat for soldering large items especially old solder that has an oxide layer on it. It is easily washed off if you don't burn it all away. I have actually looked for corrosion signs on wires after years and see non but I also make sure to burn it all away. That's not really an option with circuit board connections so I have some Kester organic high dollar flux for that.
The new lithium batterys are sure better than old stuff I do want to make a box with a car battery in it for running radios etc have a voltmeter in it plenty of types of connections And a charger built in or at least a small battery tender
Straight up those battery management things are called balance plugs and I actually have used my 4S Lipo to start my vehicle and other peoples vehicles it has a 50 C with 100 C peak discharge rating and it works like a dream
Awesome. Other than the alligator clamps having a bunch of diodes to prevent the car alternator from reverse charging, this thing is essentially just a 4S connected straight to the battery.
I have a old jump pack similar to yours, my g/f dropped it off the kitchen table & the battery swelled up & won’t hold a charge, haven’t thrown it away yet but I may try this
Another good thing about having batteries in parallel (as long as they are balanced) is it shares current between the packs...reducing the stresses on each pack The problem is, you can't balance between the parallel packs, which means they can eventually get out of balance, but that is usually after many many cycles Very cool! Keep em coming!!!!
The plugs are called balance leads, if there is an internal BMS (battery management system) there are no multi wire balance leads coming out, you see that in bigger packs where there is room for mosfets 😉
How much amperage do you need for something like this? I’m wondering if I could make an 18650 holder that would put out enough juice (maybe 4 or 8 batteries). I know lipo typically put out more current that li-ion, but an 18650 version would be really easy to swap out bad cells.
That's awesome. I carry around a deep cycle battery with straps I made for the same purpose. Can't say I've lugged around a huge semi truck battery though.
Have you considered replacing the battery in the lead acid unit with a LiPo? Granted you'd have to fit a LiPo charger board or at least a port for the balance wires, but it would seem to be an excellent idea.
I believe walmart carys the 3.7 volt. Lithium battery. I saw them in the landscaping depth., for solor lawn lights. The vape smoke shops carry some also. Incase you wanted to add moore storage power.hope that helps👍
Super job on that, the only downside I find I’d recharging , can these be recharge using a model aircraft battery charger which is capable of higher charge rate, could this be done by plugging into the output for the jump leads?
Great video. I bought one of those jump starter devices, charged it up and put it under the back seat in the truck for about a year and when I went to use it, dead. I tried charging it but it would not charge no matter what I tried. I don't know if the batteries went bad or too low to charge or what but just hate that I spent over $100.00 for it and never got to use it. I was thinking about buying another to keep in the truck just in case but if I do that, I probably need to get it out once in a while and make sure it works and/or charge it. I like the idea that you can replace the batteries, that is also an option. Thank you.
Coincidentally I just asked that- because lithium polymer batteries don't like to be treated the way lead acid are, which is to be kept at full charge all the time, you're better off storing them in standby only half charged. That optimizes battery life for them, although it goes against the goal of having it always full and ready just for the infrequent emergency use situations. My purpose for the jump pack is mainly for emergency use, so there may be long times between pulling it out of the trunk. It'd be otherwise sitting in a hot trunk in the summer or freezing temperatures in the winter. I have the alternative super capacitor jump packs by Schumacher and Autowit, which have worked out well for me the times I've needed them. Since they don't use batteries, I expect they'll last much longer just sitting in the trunk most of the time compared to the lithium packs.
I did a bunch of reading after the video on longevity of lipo batteries. Turns out they hate being stored at full charge(4.2v per cell) and their lifespan is drastically reduced if this is done. They store ideally at 3.8-3.85v per cell or 3/4 charge on your jump pack. Theoretically they should last 10-20 years if done so. I tested mine out at this voltage and it still works awesome and will give me 6-7 good cranks on a V8 engine at 3/4 charge(15.2-15.4v total pack voltage). I guess the high end lipo powered drones/toys will automatically self dicharge the batteries after a few days to help preserve it's life.
@@sixtyfiveford please do! I love your ability to break things down in to simple pieces. I've been soldering stuff on my truck for a year now. I feel like im not getting better at it with the practice haha
Love the vid. Good job on the switcherou. I use this to jump start my skidoo sometimes, they're good for sure> Bebop 2 drone uses batteries like the new ones you got from Amazon, thanks for the link.....cheers
This a bit of a technical question more than a comment. The general recommendation for these lipo batteries is to keep them stored at a "safe" minimal charge, or voltage, so they don't degrade over time. According to all of the internet comments, you should NEVER keep them fully charged. I have a lipo booster that I purchased at Costco and it came in handy about 3-4 times and it will no longer charge. I've taken it apart and it is a 3s pack. I've purchased replacement (larger) 3s pack. Like you, I looked for a replacement that fit, and couldn't find one. These packs come shipped at 11.4 volts, but charge up to 12.6V fully charged. If I'm using this pack as an emergency booster, in my wife's car, and if I charge it fully, so it will be most effective when jump starting, (12.6V) is it safe to leave in that state?
The 3s pack jump starters are not good in my opinion. Like you state they will go dead in just a few years if not a year if stored fully charged. But you have to keep them fully charged to make them usable. The 4S packs are much more suited to jump starting a car because of the higher voltage. I keep all those at 15.2/3 volts (3.8-3.85v per cell). At this stable lower voltage I can get around 6+ Jump start attempts on a car. They should also give me around 10 years of life. The 3s packs only give you one attempt on a full charge. Being from Costco they will give you your money back. I would return it and buy a 4 s pack. The difference is night and day.
Can you do this with 4 new batteries? Would it be safe to do 4 new batteries (instead of 2 like in the video) in parallel? Or would that be too much on the bms?
Hi, Great video, my question is I am planning to buy a battery pack for my 6 cylinder odyssey van, Which brand or model is reasonable and good as per your opinion. Thanks
Every time I see one of your videos two thoughts, 1. Great video (good information and I'm just a curious person) 2. Ginger needs her own channel -->such a pre-madonna wanting to be in the video spotlight --> jumping, barking, going places, chasing water LOL
Any ideas on where to get the BMS board (ckt board) ?? These are generic for the vid jump starter as well as the Amazon "TopVision" units. I need a board.. mine doesn't sense the batteries properly.
i have the exact same"trekpow" jump pack, a few of them actually.. mine wont allow any power out when theres no voltage, i cant use it on a winch or a car with no battery in it, i didnt think itd work with a 0v battery like you showed in the video i thought it had to see a minimum voltage, the cables and little relay block are different on mine, seems everytime i buy one that part is adifferent design, mine all seem to kick out like yours did if you dont get the start, but it beeps and i have to unplug it from the pack and from the battery before itll work again, if that relay block sees voltage from the battery in the car or the jump pack itll stay in that squacking mode.. its annoying i wonder how dangerous itd be if the relay was removed and the connection jumped.. probably very if those clamps ever touched that batteries at dead short.. wonder if i could tag a couple wires off the activation side of that relay and bring them out to alligator clips that i could apply to the car battery im jumping to lock it in as balls to the wall while cranking, and just be smart enough to not crank on the think for 40 seconds straight.. i dont mind if the thing blows up while in use i just dont want it live all the time its behind the seat or tossed around
I just bought a spare set of dummy clamps. There are two types, the smart relay activated ones and dummy that supply power constantly (have a little red box on the positive side that just has some diodes to prevent the alternator from charging it). I'm going to use it to power tire inflators, winches etc. I'm going to make the positive cable relay activated off the cigarette plug. This is so it'll shut off power via the relay when the voltage is too low. So put a 40 amp (or larger of I have one) across the Red Pos cable. The relay will only be turned on when I plug the DC output cig plug into the side.
I bought a beatit g18 model about 3 years ago. Used it more time than I thought I would my battery family stranded strangers reach lift scissor lift ditch witch . Lipo batteries been swollen for nearly 2 years. Still works like a champ! However I want to change from lipo to lion batteries. One thing that is extremely important on those lipo batteries it the cell charge. Every one of those lipo batteries that you have will get damaged if held at a full storage for more than 3 days or longer. 16.8 volts is what most of these jump starters hold thats at 4.2 volts per cell. Before I fly my built quadcopters I fully charge before flight session. End of flight session I charge to storage voltage 3.85 volts.same with my rc vehicles. This will keep these lipos in good condition. I've learned several times over ruined expensive 4 5 6 cell lipos. I do not understand why these lipos are in these jump starters.They stay in your vehicle for months before needing. That is never good. Truck battery was dead this evening. So was my jump starter, charging the beatit g18 charger right now. pulled out my modified li lion jump starter. Got me going to the movies lol. Anyways excellent video! Keep them coming!
The issue is the discharge rate of li-on cells. A standard cell can only push 5amps max. A high discharge can reach 30amps of continuous discharge or 60peak in short bursts. That's good quality name brand cells. A single lipo can dump over 300amps. Take the ones I used, they can dump 360amps continuous or 720amps bursts in parallel. Li-on would need to be a 10 in parallel/4 series to equal this (10p4s). That's 40 18650 cells. I now keep mine at 3.80-3.85 volts per cell and it's enough to jump start everything. At this voltage they should last 10+ years with the minimal amount that gets drained/cycled. Generally they only drop to 3.7v after a jump start.
I have an older pack that has a micro USB pack. It works well but I would love to upgrade it to USB C. Is this possible & what might I need to do this? Or is there a place I can send it to have it done?
Thanks for the video. After watching your video, I think it's worth another $20 to just buy a new jump starter pack, otherwise it looks like anfun project if you have the time
They're pretty much all the same Chinese guts with a different plastic shell and random made up brand name. I would get one with the big lump(black chunk you see on mine) in the cable as this monitors the voltage and prevents over discharge. The super cheap ones generally only have diodes in the cable(smaller red block) just to prevent reverse connection.
Great video, thank you. Just curious, I noticed there were some pairs that were being charged by the BMS. Has this caused any issues like unbalancing or charging issues?
Nope. Pairs always self balance each other. Parallel charging is extremely common in lithium cells but not so common to be done with lipo because factories can make any size of lipo. Where lithium cells are universal size.
Not easily without a fair amount of circuitry. You can see the little computer in this one. That is required to prevent the packs from essentially blowing up during charging/use. They do have lithium phosphorous batteries that have built in protection and are the appropriate size but they are not cheap.
which is best bettery for replacement 1200a peak load . u have one starter need replace bettery. please guide me which bettery pack is good total 14.8 v
It's amazing how a small thing can put out so much power, I should probably get one. I guess it will discharge itself after a week or so like a drone battery, I used to have a DJI Phantom 1 that had a 3s lipo and used to store them at 50-60%. Was Ginger trying to catch bugs or something?
I know my DJI is set to self drain after a week to a more stable voltage. They last much longer this way. The jump packs don't seem to have this technology and stay fully charged for months. It would likely still be 80-90% after a year of sitting. Ginger loves to try and catch the wind.
@@sixtyfiveford DJI does that to preserve the batteries, as this type of battery degrades rapidly when kept at full charge for long periods. If you're not actively using it, it's a good idea to implement the discharge scheme on your own, storing it half full if you can. You just need to verify it still works for your starting purposes when it's at low charge. If you knew exactly when you were going to need it, best thing is to only charge it up shortly before you need it, and then discharge it back down to mid charge for storage again.
I just read all the literature that came with my new batteries I installed. They say not to store for more than a week with over 3.8volts/cell. It says in nice terms it will kill them to store them full.
What's in the bulky plug at the other end of the alligator clips, and why is that built into the plug instead of the main body of the gadget? Seems like they're all designed that way. I'm sure there's a good reason.
There are two types of boxes built into the wires. Both only allow power to transfer one way. So if you reverse connect it, you don't blow up the jump starter in your hand. Generally the smaller box that's red in color, this is all it does. The larger black box you see generally also triggers an on off charging scenario to not overheat the internal battery. So it will turn it on for 3 seconds then off for 3 seconds then on then off etc. It pulses generally three or four times and then stops any output.
Hi! I have a battery-testing related question… on a Carbon Pile tester, like the $50 one at Harbor Freight, when you apply a load = to 1/2 the CCA of the battery, are you using the top amp scale or the bottom CCA scale? So if it’s a 300 CCA battery…. Do you apply 150 amps on top scale or 150 CCA on bottom scale? Thanks! (I figured you’d know this!)
With 300cca battery you would apply 300 on the bottom scale to match the battery. The top scale is the actual amp load being put onto the battery (150 amps in the case).
How can these small wires and battery carry the amps require to start a car. Good jumper cables use #4 - #6 gauge wire. It seems to defy physics. Great video.
Check out the charging parameters of the unit in watching utube videos I found out sealed lead acid batteries should not be discharged below 12. Volts and should be charged to 14.8 ideal is to keep them between 13.4 and 14.8 for storage with a battery maintainer but my old dead booster packs chargers were all 12 volt out so since my old black and decker was handy I took it apart to find out what the battery manufacturer website said the charging parameters were but written right on the battery was do not discharge below 12.2 float charge is 13.4 and full charge is 14.8 and on the built in charger was output 12 volts so it was no wonder it failed it was dead to start with and being discharged way too far since I had bought everstart from Walmart I checked to see what it was charged to 13.1 so I phoned everstart they said for their batteries that was fully charged so I used the two of them for boosting my pt cruiser each one gave me 5 boosts which I need as my pt cruiser has a glitch sometimes if I start out with a fully charged battery I can start and stop it every time I go from one stop to another other times every time I shut it off I've got to boost it it's the weirdest thing I've driven it 2 hrs shut it off and had to boost it on another time I I drove it a mile shut it down and it fired right up went across the street and had to boost it vs my booster packs are used quite often I've also used them to boost my Ford cube van but after a year I noticed that the amount of boosts I could get from the booster packs had dropped from 5 to 4 and quickly to 3 so I hooked my charger up to the cables and turned on the cables and plugged it in the first time I charged it it got to 90 % 13.1 volts I left it charging for a day but it wouldn't get any better but I found after a few uses and recharging it through the cables it would finally read full charge but at 13.9 volts since then I've got another year out of it and am hoping for one more but I will say don't buy ever start booster packs with the compressor and 400 watt modified sine wave inverter the first time I used the compressor on the one after 10 minutes I tried to turn it off and it didn't shut off since most 12 volt compressor burn out I'f you run them too long I hooked it up to my old Ford turned the light on I thought it would have a low voltage shut off but I had to kill the battery to dead I thought it would reset but I had to open it up and cut the wire to the compressor last Wednesday I stopped to help my neice her tiire had a slow leak and had gone flat so I pulled out my booster pack that still had an unused compressor to fill it up and it didn't work at all so both have faulty compressors haven't tried the inverters yet now that I'm not working I don't need them used to use them to charge my cordless tools when working as quite often there was no power
Got a question for you Moe, is it safe to use an 18v tool battery to jump start a car? I just assembled a jump starter using booster leads with reverse charging protection and placed a fuse holder coming from the Makita battery adapter, will the 20volts coming from the Makita battery damage anything? I am assuming that because the current is going directly into the car battery and not the electrical system that it would be ok for short charges or a boost, or should there be a resistor used to drop the voltage?
Great question. What generally happens when people try this is they short out their tool battery. They do this by attempting to start it while connected or the battery is so low that it draws too much. These can only dump out about 60 amps before they start shorting out the internal fuse ( fusible link ) of the battery. If the battery is just low barely won't start the car. Connecting this up will give your 18-volt tool battery and work out but it'll just charge. Have to let it sit there for a good few minutes and it may give you enough for a final attempt. Now the increased voltage: I've seen alternators peak a little over 15 volts on a dead battery. The peak 20 volts of the 18-volt pack is pushing the limits of the system. If it was an older car, I wouldn't even give it a second thought. On something modern, I would probably remove the battery terminal on one side and let this tool battery charge directly to the car battery at its 18/20 volts.
Is there a chance you will be building a solar generator anytime soon? I have been following your channel for a few years. Thanks for all the great content.
I have thought about it a few times. However, every time I start crunching the numbers the raw cost of the batteries nearly matches the cost of just buying a completed unit. I would have to source reclaimed batteries to make it feasible.
I upgraded my Walmart all in one lead acid jumper to headways. With those cells it is supposed to put out a continuous 400 amps. Cranks all day on want ever I need just have to watch the cables they get warm.
Always love seeing Ginger. The way she goes after the lawn mower exhaust 😂
She hates exhaust noise.
Moe and his channel is a great gift to those of us who love getting more handy in our garages .
Hey thanks
I'm downloading this to use for future reference. I did the same with your mount/dismount video to make my own. I live in Alaska and summer/winter tire change over is big money and a royal pain cause nobody puts their snow tires on till the first snow flies, then you have to wait a week because all the shops are backed up. Now I do my own and even make a few bucks off my neighbors. Fantastic tips and money saving content. I appreciate it.
That's awesome.
Score!😃
Thank you for reducing volume when the mower started .
You bet!
Yeah he's the only one that I watch that' does this. It's very much appreciated.
Always dropping knowledge my man. I don’t comment on your videos much but you remind me of my father (May he Rest In Peace) who taught me so much as a young man. Thanks for all you informative videos 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks a million, I'm glad you enjoy them.
Just as an fyi, I've been using a ES5000 booster pac (I think) I got on ebay for 9 years now. It'll jumpstart anything, even a big diesel cat 416 backhoe without a battery in it, on a cold morning. But it's 9 years old now. I think the reason it's lasted this long is because I can't remember the last time I plugged it into it's wall charger. It's so good that for most things like my mf135 diesel tractor, I don't even keep a battery in it, and just use this jumpbox. So it gets recharged by the charging system of whatever it jumpstarted. And the things are still around the same price I paid 9 years ago (around $125). And no, I'm not affiliated in any way. It's just how fast it turns things over, and now 9 years and going strong.
Thanks, I just bought one based on your high praise of it. I have one of the boosters like Moe is showing and it has worked well for me but I am not going to replace the batteries when they die, with the ES5000, it's a simple battery swap if you ever need to replace it.
Yeah, the es5000 has a lead acid battery like these all do. It looks like the es5000 has a bigger than most 22ah battery. My yellow one and dozens others I have repaired have 18ah batteries(some cheaper ones have even smaller batteries). It all about how you care for it and those wall chargers can be brutal. I need to repair my yellow one as the battery is pushing 6-7 years now. I think I'm going for a 22ah lead acid this time. I run quit a few things straight off of it and that is what I miss about the lithium packs.
NOCO Boost HD I have a 2000a model. Has an over ride feature that allows you to use it as a standalone battery or start a battery with 0 volts. I have used mine to run a VW without a battery and to power a small winch without issue
What kind of charge level indication does it have on that pack? 9 years is impressive, you did well with the benign neglect by not giving it a loving charge and keeping its belly full all the time 😉
@@sixtyfiveford oh, I thought that was a lipo. In that case it should have been better keeping it charged- surprised it lasted that long regardless.
Smashing repair/upgrade 😀
I was amazed with the tiny jump pack when they first became available.
Then in the blink of an eye everyone had one 😀
The only thing that i saw as being crappy was the quality of the crock clips, they don't always make enough surface contact for high currents.
But that can be fixed with heavy duty ones with a powerfull spring.
I never get bored seeing your dog, she is loverly.
The cheap clips are probably my biggest complaint as well.
You must be talking about Durite and Sealey. I bought a Durite Li-Ion pack and despite initial misgivings, it works really well- starting cars and commercial vehicles alike. But the same problem- broken crocodile clips. They've got so much Gorilla glue on them now that they're weakened. But the unit is designed to house these clips neatly and I can't find replacements that fit properly. A pain.
Awesome rebuild. I bought one of these a year ago on recommendation of Sweet Project Cars here on RUclips, and I love it. The ability to start large V8 motors even in the freezing cold is amazing. And you can get several jumps out of mine before recharging. I paid around sixty bucks for mine, so the ability to rebuild it for half price makes good sense!
Absolutely. They are impressive.
I’m always impressed by your ingenuity and willingness to tackle some of these fixes … especially in modifying existing plastic cases to work with new internals that are too big for the original case.
I’m sure many others like myself have encountered similar possibilities but have given up before even attempting because common sense would say it’s too much effort for the gain and the end result would no longer be sufficiently rugged or aesthetically acceptable.
But if I take what you’ve shown on countless videos and combine it with a precision hot plastic welding tool and the correct filler plastic I think I could tackle some of the projects I abandoned and get a result that could pass initial looks as OEM with some practice.
Your channel as been immensely helpful to me on more than just a few occasions. Please know that the time and effort put into filming and the way you present things makes you one of my favorites for referring people to learn about their similar projects.
Wow, thanks Chris. I'm glad you like it. -Moe
I bought one of those jump boxes after seeing your initial review a couple of years ago and I gotta say, I’m super impressed with it as well. My wife keeps it in her trunk but I’ve used it to jump start my diesel truck with dead dual batteries.
When this died a few weeks ago, I was lost. I'm glad to have it back up and going.
@@sixtyfiveford what was the use pattern of your jump pack in the years it was in service? Did you use it and charge it on a regular basis? Normally when lithium polymer batteries are stored with a full charge or discharged they'll degrade quicker than if they're kept at mid charge. If you just charge it and leave it in the trunk for a year at a time between use, will they still maintain full function for the years to come?
A very good and informative video, especially for those who don't know how these work. I have a make that is probably not available in USA (Sealey, RS235) and my first one was 12V/24V for commercial engines and I started a 12 litre V12. Though unlike the one in the video here, I could start engines several times over without any problems at all- charging perhaps only once per week or so. I replaced the lead acid batteries with two tiny motorbike batteries from Yuasa and the record is starting a 14 litre V12 from them. Twice. Eventually when that pack gave up entirely, I bought a replacement and that struggled to start a 2l petrol engine.
Agree entirely with the Li-Ion system though. I can easily start a 4 or 6 litre diesel (24V) without any form of vehicle battery present, which from a box only a few inches square is quite incredible. I have a 7 litre 6 cylinder Volvo in the yard with flat batteries. Out of complete curiosity, I am going to see if the Li-Ion system will start that without any vehicle battery present (ie disconnected).
Excellent videos- not just this one, but your others too.
Thanks. Sounds like you have a lot of fun toys!
Not supposed to use it on a vehicle with no battery.
i just bought a cheap one of these and it jumps my diesel international tractor that sits in the paddock using 5% battery each time with no problems, im quite impressed, those batteries can become a white hot fire if wired wrong i recommend having something to contain it made out of metal, those big ones take up to much room love your dog
They're impressive and dangerous. Thanks
Very informative and as usual, very interesting for me because I've never seen an inside of a jump pack. I liked your assessment at the end too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I bought a little set of gator clip “helping hands” from Harbor Freight for cheap. I didn’t think I’d ever use it, until I did once. Now I find I’m looking for electronics projects because of how nice it was to work like a gentleman. Another awesome video man!
I do have one of those sitting on the shelf.
@@sixtyfiveford Nice.
I bought one on the sale rack,for 10$. It started my 454 without the battery hooked up. After 6 months, and leaving in my car in IL winter.. the batterys, no longer work. I wanted to do exactly what your doing in this video. Love your channel 👍. Thanks again for sharing 👍 😀
One tip to people working with high discharge batteries. Cut one wire at a time. A few years ago I cut straight across the positive and negative wires of lipo for a RC craft, which were together like you see for an electrical appliance, and wow did that make a spark.
Been there done that! I get so comfortable around low voltage you forget sometimes.
Badass, I have one that had been awesome for a year or so with heavy use, I stupidly left it in a very hot car parked for a week with the jumper cables and volt meter attached and it killed the batteries and the swelled up, I'm also replacing the battery packs in it but I'm glad I came across this video to confirm it's possible. Awesome job and thank you
I did learn something crucial from viewers comments on these lipo cells. They hate being stored at full charge and only have about a 1-year life if done so. Full charge is about 4.2 volts/cell or 16.8v/pack. They do however increase their lifespan 10 to 20 times by storing them at 3.8-3.85 volts/cell which is 3/4 charge (15.2-15.4/pack). I've been doing this and it still works fantastic for jump starting. I haven't found anything I can't jump start that I did at full charge with 3/4 charge.
I have use the older jumper for several years. Hard to jump cars with it now but still good for the lawn mowers. Plus I hooked it up to my grandsons Gator that he loved to ride. I got my $$ out of it.
Nice swap with the batteries.
Stay well, Joe Z
I through my jump box on the power wheels a few times.
I still have my TrekPow jumper, this reminded me to refresh it. I've found that they need to get a work out after sitting a while. The 4 light indicator still showed 4, but on the load tester it only had 200 amps. The 2nd load test 400 and the 3rd 800. Then I put it on the charger, it is charging this very moment. The 1st one I got in 2018 died in 2019, I had contacted them and they sent me a new one in 2019. I think they had a 1 year warranty. Looking up my emails, I had emailed them in April 19 and they responded back with an email in August. They stood behind their product.
That's great of them. It looks like TrekPow is no longer a brand and they changed it to NexPow(or something like that). Are you load testing it straight off a 100amp battery load tester?
@@sixtyfiveford Yes, for very short bursts. After charging it today it is back to it's high output self.
@@wingspan99 do the instruction manuals on any of these lipo jump packs advise keeping them stored at mid charge? Seems they have to balance between warranty and sales. Telling prospective customers their product could be damaged from their normal use might dissuade the customers from buying, so mum's the word might be the better option, they figure.
If everyone started getting warranty replacements after a year it'd be costly for the company.
@@wingspan99 true, sales first is probably their mantra
I just read the literature that came with the new lipo cells and it does say to not store at full charge as it will drastically reduce the performance. It says to store at approx 3.8v for any storage over a few days. I put mine to 15.4volts(3.85v/cell) which is still 3 out of 4 dots on the meter. It will still give me at least 6-7 good starting attempts on a V-8 engine so I'm not worried. If I'm going to rescue someone I can always plug it into my cig plug as I drive to give it a full charge.
Ginger knew you were jiving about mowing in winter and the mower started like my wife's old Craftsman.
She's ready to go anytime an engine is starting.
Great video, I have a dead pack that needs repairing, but out of luck, they don't ship the cells to Canada. Enjoyed, cheers!
These cells are common for radio controlled toys and my links likely don't work but I'm sure you can get them in Canada. You just have to pay a lot more for them like everything in Canada.
I made a few jump packs out of 18650 cells out of laptop packs , they work AWESOME ! crank very well .. Fixed any of the Lipo packs and for the money I still like the old yeller ! The Lipo are more compact and store easy .. ENJOYED !!
Very cool!
I had a lead acid one that went bad. So I took the clamps with cables of it, put on quick battery connectors (where you fold it up to release) for lead acid batteries, and now I use the cables with a slightly worn car battery.
Basically a battery and jumper cables, but the jumper cables are neater.
It is not a direct replacement for either, but a nice hack with what I had, and the capacity is whatever your loose battery is.
five out of five for the badass refresh !
A little diamond paper to smooth out the back and it's good to go.
Thanks Man.
I used your link to order a battery to fix my old dead harbor freight jump pack. Thank you sir!!
Awesome. Not much to those jump boxes. Worth their weight when you need them.
Good video, I love doing that type stuff because I like to tinker and I have tons of batteries I can build any pack with. However, you should mention that for just $20 more or on sale you can simply just buy a new jumper box. I use them myself to provide a few more CCA's to tractors that do not have a compression release. One last thing to note, be careful of the amperage it can deliver, I lost 4 solenoids in a row before I realized it wasn't cheap solenoids, the jump box was producing too many amps on startup, they can literally DUMP amps into a starter.
Excellent video Moe! I always enjoy your latest craft. Thanks for sharing. Have a great start to 2022 as well.
Thanks, you too!
Another informative, entertaining video. Definitely will be doing the same when mine kicks the bucket. Extra love for your doggo getting super excited when you were cranking the lawnmower!
Yeah, Ginger loves any engine when it fires up.
I love my little jump pack. It can crank over my v-8 in express van doesn't even slow down
They are impressive.
Another great video on showing everyone how to save our money and to repair the most essential things we all use in our daily life..you are the greatest..and we all love Ginger too..
Cheers friend 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey thanks Rodney
Thanks for your video. I am absolutely impressed and amazed by your skill and ability to select and connect new batteries and revise the case to hold them. Your problem-solving thinking is top notch. One improvement (which would make all the time and effort worth doing the repair on a failed unit) is to employ connectors which would provide for the next battery replacement to be unplugging the old batteries and plugging in the new batteries. I believe that if you would build connector yokes, people like me would gladly buy them. My jump starter failed after 3 years with very little use. I can't see doing as much soldering as you did every 3 years, but I can see replacing battery packs by unplugging the old and plugging in the new batteries. rc55
Thanks, i almost put a battery pack replacement in that wasnt exactly the same. Glad i watched this first
And thank you for showing me that is pretty cool seeing that they had 3.7 Polymer batteries for sale going to buy me some that is sweet!
Good way to fix the jump started. I do question using acid flux on the wires. Yoda says he has a crush on Ginger, she is a keeper. 👍
Yeah, Acid Flux isn't idea for circuit boards but it can't be beat for soldering large items especially old solder that has an oxide layer on it. It is easily washed off if you don't burn it all away. I have actually looked for corrosion signs on wires after years and see non but I also make sure to burn it all away. That's not really an option with circuit board connections so I have some Kester organic high dollar flux for that.
The new lithium batterys are sure better than old stuff I do want to make a box with a car battery in it for running radios etc have a voltmeter in it plenty of types of connections And a charger built in or at least a small battery tender
I carry around one of those cheap $25 lawn & garden tractor batteries(Wal-Mart) and run a lot of stuff off of it.
I love these lithium battery jumpers, so lightweight and small
Lead acid battery tech is still my go to.
Certain people, I just click the like button at the beginning because you know they make good videos.
Thanks Scott. -Moe
Straight up those battery management things are called balance plugs and I actually have used my 4S Lipo to start my vehicle and other peoples vehicles it has a 50 C with 100 C peak discharge rating and it works like a dream
Awesome. Other than the alligator clamps having a bunch of diodes to prevent the car alternator from reverse charging, this thing is essentially just a 4S connected straight to the battery.
Very useful comparison! Thanks so much for the quick and dirty get her done explananation!
Ginger was ready to go.
Very educational and informative video. Thanks you rock glad I found your channel. Keep up the good work
Awesome, thank you!
I have a old jump pack similar to yours, my g/f dropped it off the kitchen table & the battery swelled up & won’t hold a charge, haven’t thrown it away yet but I may try this
The swelling is their death sentence.
Another good thing about having batteries in parallel (as long as they are balanced) is it shares current between the packs...reducing the stresses on each pack
The problem is, you can't balance between the parallel packs, which means they can eventually get out of balance, but that is usually after many many cycles
Very cool! Keep em coming!!!!
The plugs are called balance leads, if there is an internal BMS (battery management system) there are no multi wire balance leads coming out, you see that in bigger packs where there is room for mosfets 😉
How much amperage do you need for something like this? I’m wondering if I could make an 18650 holder that would put out enough juice (maybe 4 or 8 batteries). I know lipo typically put out more current that li-ion, but an 18650 version would be really easy to swap out bad cells.
Battery hookup has a ton of lifepo4 cells of all types.. That's where I got my Headways.
I always like your vidoes. You are doing the kind of things I enjoy doing. Keepum coming.
I appreciate that!
I am Still Old School , I still use a 100AH Semi Truck Battery And Cables LOL!!!
But mind... You.... MY Back is Shot... I wonder why LOL!!!
That's awesome. I carry around a deep cycle battery with straps I made for the same purpose. Can't say I've lugged around a huge semi truck battery though.
Have you considered replacing the battery in the lead acid unit with a LiPo? Granted you'd have to fit a LiPo charger board or at least a port for the balance wires, but it would seem to be an excellent idea.
I believe walmart carys the 3.7 volt. Lithium battery. I saw them in the landscaping depth., for solor lawn lights. The vape smoke shops carry some also. Incase you wanted to add moore storage power.hope that helps👍
Why can't one use the small jump starter as the battery?
Super job on that, the only downside I find I’d recharging , can these be recharge using a model aircraft battery charger which is capable of higher charge rate, could this be done by plugging into the output for the jump leads?
The Dewalt Power Stack batteries use the same soft cells. You could basically rebuild and old lithium battery with the soft cells and not pay $150.
I actually have that written down as a future video idea.
Very good now I can do it when I have to
Hey Thanks
Great video. I bought one of those jump starter devices, charged it up and put it under the back seat in the truck for about a year and when I went to use it, dead. I tried charging it but it would not charge no matter what I tried.
I don't know if the batteries went bad or too low to charge or what but just hate that I spent over $100.00 for it and never got to use it. I was thinking about buying another to keep in the truck just in case but if I do that, I probably need to get it out once in a while and make sure it works and/or charge it.
I like the idea that you can replace the batteries, that is also an option.
Thank you.
Coincidentally I just asked that- because lithium polymer batteries don't like to be treated the way lead acid are, which is to be kept at full charge all the time, you're better off storing them in standby only half charged. That optimizes battery life for them, although it goes against the goal of having it always full and ready just for the infrequent emergency use situations.
My purpose for the jump pack is mainly for emergency use, so there may be long times between pulling it out of the trunk. It'd be otherwise sitting in a hot trunk in the summer or freezing temperatures in the winter.
I have the alternative super capacitor jump packs by Schumacher and Autowit, which have worked out well for me the times I've needed them. Since they don't use batteries, I expect they'll last much longer just sitting in the trunk most of the time compared to the lithium packs.
I did a bunch of reading after the video on longevity of lipo batteries. Turns out they hate being stored at full charge(4.2v per cell) and their lifespan is drastically reduced if this is done. They store ideally at 3.8-3.85v per cell or 3/4 charge on your jump pack. Theoretically they should last 10-20 years if done so. I tested mine out at this voltage and it still works awesome and will give me 6-7 good cranks on a V8 engine at 3/4 charge(15.2-15.4v total pack voltage). I guess the high end lipo powered drones/toys will automatically self dicharge the batteries after a few days to help preserve it's life.
Do you have a video on soldering and how to do it properly for beginners?
I've thought about it a few times, but have never made a video on it.
@@sixtyfiveford please do! I love your ability to break things down in to simple pieces. I've been soldering stuff on my truck for a year now. I feel like im not getting better at it with the practice haha
I see you’re a Ford guy? Hell yeah 🤙👍👍🤙
Old hair dryer works great for heat shrink tubing! 😉
True, and I even have a cordless heatgun but find the lighter the quickest. Or maybe it's just the fun of playing with fire???
@@sixtyfiveford gotta burn the thumbs somehow!
Do you have a place nearby to get rid of the old batteries?
Home Depot and I think Best Buy takes them.
Thanks for the best vids on youtube.!
Glad you like them!
If you use a Heat Gun on insulating tape it fuses together and never comes undone. You can't always fit Heat Shrink but I use both if I can.
Love the vid. Good job on the switcherou. I use this to jump start my skidoo sometimes, they're good for sure> Bebop 2 drone uses batteries like the new ones you got from Amazon, thanks for the link.....cheers
Inspiring video as usual Moe. Thanks mate.
Glad you enjoyed it
This a bit of a technical question more than a comment. The general recommendation for these lipo batteries is to keep them stored at a "safe" minimal charge, or voltage, so they don't degrade over time. According to all of the internet comments, you should NEVER keep them fully charged. I have a lipo booster that I purchased at Costco and it came in handy about 3-4 times and it will no longer charge. I've taken it apart and it is a 3s pack. I've purchased replacement (larger) 3s pack. Like you, I looked for a replacement that fit, and couldn't find one. These packs come shipped at 11.4 volts, but charge up to 12.6V fully charged. If I'm using this pack as an emergency booster, in my wife's car, and if I charge it fully, so it will be most effective when jump starting, (12.6V) is it safe to leave in that state?
The 3s pack jump starters are not good in my opinion. Like you state they will go dead in just a few years if not a year if stored fully charged. But you have to keep them fully charged to make them usable. The 4S packs are much more suited to jump starting a car because of the higher voltage. I keep all those at 15.2/3 volts (3.8-3.85v per cell). At this stable lower voltage I can get around 6+ Jump start attempts on a car. They should also give me around 10 years of life. The 3s packs only give you one attempt on a full charge. Being from Costco they will give you your money back. I would return it and buy a 4 s pack. The difference is night and day.
Hi
I enjoyed your video.
But the battery packs you used unfortunately not available on Amazon. Thanks
The exact batteries I bought are available: Pair 1500mah ZEEE Batteries I used: amzn.to/3Kqbw3c
Can you do this with 4 new batteries? Would it be safe to do 4 new batteries (instead of 2 like in the video) in parallel? Or would that be too much on the bms?
This man is brilliant
I'm glad you liked it.
Great show again. Thank you for sharing this with us..
Hey Thanks.
Hi, Great video, my question is I am planning to buy a battery pack for my 6 cylinder odyssey van, Which brand or model is reasonable and good as per your opinion. Thanks
Every time I see one of your videos two thoughts, 1. Great video (good information and I'm just a curious person) 2. Ginger needs her own channel -->such a pre-madonna wanting to be in the video spotlight --> jumping, barking, going places, chasing water LOL
Hey Thanks. Ginger does need more attention.
Great video.
I need to do the same thing for an old camera drone.
Hey Thanks.
is there any way to make your own adapter but use the top of a old battery and the bottom of a adapter? example X tool to milwaukee batteries
Love your videos.
Thank you!
Any ideas on where to get the BMS board (ckt board) ?? These are generic for the vid jump starter as well as the Amazon "TopVision" units. I need a board.. mine doesn't sense the batteries properly.
i have the exact same"trekpow" jump pack, a few of them actually.. mine wont allow any power out when theres no voltage, i cant use it on a winch or a car with no battery in it, i didnt think itd work with a 0v battery like you showed in the video i thought it had to see a minimum voltage, the cables and little relay block are different on mine, seems everytime i buy one that part is adifferent design, mine all seem to kick out like yours did if you dont get the start, but it beeps and i have to unplug it from the pack and from the battery before itll work again, if that relay block sees voltage from the battery in the car or the jump pack itll stay in that squacking mode.. its annoying
i wonder how dangerous itd be if the relay was removed and the connection jumped.. probably very if those clamps ever touched that batteries at dead short.. wonder if i could tag a couple wires off the activation side of that relay and bring them out to alligator clips that i could apply to the car battery im jumping to lock it in as balls to the wall while cranking, and just be smart enough to not crank on the think for 40 seconds straight.. i dont mind if the thing blows up while in use i just dont want it live all the time its behind the seat or tossed around
I just bought a spare set of dummy clamps. There are two types, the smart relay activated ones and dummy that supply power constantly (have a little red box on the positive side that just has some diodes to prevent the alternator from charging it). I'm going to use it to power tire inflators, winches etc. I'm going to make the positive cable relay activated off the cigarette plug. This is so it'll shut off power via the relay when the voltage is too low. So put a 40 amp (or larger of I have one) across the Red Pos cable. The relay will only be turned on when I plug the DC output cig plug into the side.
I bought a beatit g18 model about 3 years ago. Used it more time than I thought I would my battery family stranded strangers reach lift scissor lift ditch witch . Lipo batteries been swollen for nearly 2 years. Still works like a champ! However I want to change from lipo to lion batteries. One thing that is extremely important on those lipo batteries it the cell charge. Every one of those lipo batteries that you have will get damaged if held at a full storage for more than 3 days or longer. 16.8 volts is what most of these jump starters hold thats at 4.2 volts per cell. Before I fly my built quadcopters I fully charge before flight session. End of flight session I charge to storage voltage 3.85 volts.same with my rc vehicles. This will keep these lipos in good condition. I've learned several times over ruined expensive 4 5 6 cell lipos. I do not understand why these lipos are in these jump starters.They stay in your vehicle for months before needing. That is never good. Truck battery was dead this evening. So was my jump starter, charging the beatit g18 charger right now. pulled out my modified li lion jump starter. Got me going to the movies lol. Anyways excellent video! Keep them coming!
The issue is the discharge rate of li-on cells. A standard cell can only push 5amps max. A high discharge can reach 30amps of continuous discharge or 60peak in short bursts. That's good quality name brand cells. A single lipo can dump over 300amps. Take the ones I used, they can dump 360amps continuous or 720amps bursts in parallel. Li-on would need to be a 10 in parallel/4 series to equal this (10p4s). That's 40 18650 cells. I now keep mine at 3.80-3.85 volts per cell and it's enough to jump start everything. At this voltage they should last 10+ years with the minimal amount that gets drained/cycled. Generally they only drop to 3.7v after a jump start.
That is too cool, great job explaining
Glad you liked it!
Why don’t u mod the big one with a couple of those lithium battery
Pretty cool fix. You are the man! Thanks Moe
Hey Thanks.
I have an older pack that has a micro USB pack. It works well but I would love to upgrade it to USB C. Is this possible & what might I need to do this?
Or is there a place I can send it to have it done?
Thanks for the video. After watching your video, I think it's worth another $20 to just buy a new jump starter pack, otherwise it looks like anfun project if you have the time
Most cases if you have 1 cell that dies when paralleled it kills it's twin. Just for future reference.
True.
Ginger was dancing with the mower heh
She's always happy to have an engine fire up.
Ma non ho capito il condensatore che aumenta la.potenza sta nelle pinze oppure dove ce le batterie?
Very cool!
I had been wanting to get one of those. But not sure witch brand to get.
They're pretty much all the same Chinese guts with a different plastic shell and random made up brand name. I would get one with the big lump(black chunk you see on mine) in the cable as this monitors the voltage and prevents over discharge. The super cheap ones generally only have diodes in the cable(smaller red block) just to prevent reverse connection.
Great video, thank you. Just curious, I noticed there were some pairs that were being charged by the BMS. Has this caused any issues like unbalancing or charging issues?
Nope. Pairs always self balance each other. Parallel charging is extremely common in lithium cells but not so common to be done with lipo because factories can make any size of lipo. Where lithium cells are universal size.
Can you replace the lead acid battery in the yellow jumper with a lithium battery?
Not easily without a fair amount of circuitry. You can see the little computer in this one. That is required to prevent the packs from essentially blowing up during charging/use. They do have lithium phosphorous batteries that have built in protection and are the appropriate size but they are not cheap.
which is best bettery for replacement 1200a peak load . u have one starter need replace bettery. please guide me which bettery pack is good total 14.8 v
I wonder how many of these batteries it would take to be able to weld for 15-20 minutes🤔
Zeee rc batteries are actually very good for the money.
It's amazing how a small thing can put out so much power, I should probably get one. I guess it will discharge itself after a week or so like a drone battery, I used to have a DJI Phantom 1 that had a 3s lipo and used to store them at 50-60%. Was Ginger trying to catch bugs or something?
I know my DJI is set to self drain after a week to a more stable voltage. They last much longer this way. The jump packs don't seem to have this technology and stay fully charged for months. It would likely still be 80-90% after a year of sitting.
Ginger loves to try and catch the wind.
@@sixtyfiveford DJI does that to preserve the batteries, as this type of battery degrades rapidly when kept at full charge for long periods.
If you're not actively using it, it's a good idea to implement the discharge scheme on your own, storing it half full if you can. You just need to verify it still works for your starting purposes when it's at low charge.
If you knew exactly when you were going to need it, best thing is to only charge it up shortly before you need it, and then discharge it back down to mid charge for storage again.
I just read all the literature that came with my new batteries I installed. They say not to store for more than a week with over 3.8volts/cell. It says in nice terms it will kill them to store them full.
What's in the bulky plug at the other end of the alligator clips, and why is that built into the plug instead of the main body of the gadget? Seems like they're all designed that way. I'm sure there's a good reason.
There are two types of boxes built into the wires. Both only allow power to transfer one way. So if you reverse connect it, you don't blow up the jump starter in your hand. Generally the smaller box that's red in color, this is all it does. The larger black box you see generally also triggers an on off charging scenario to not overheat the internal battery. So it will turn it on for 3 seconds then off for 3 seconds then on then off etc. It pulses generally three or four times and then stops any output.
@@sixtyfiveford Ah, makes sense, thanks! Why not incorporate those into the box itself?
@@arselihp They can build up a ton of heat and have had a few fail because of overheating. I think this is why they like to keep it external.
@@sixtyfiveford That makes sense!
Great fix
Hey Thanks.
Can you sow us how to make one from scratch? Or how to use a power tool battery to jump a car.
Hi! I have a battery-testing related question… on a Carbon Pile tester, like the $50 one at Harbor Freight, when you apply a load = to 1/2 the CCA of the battery, are you using the top amp scale or the bottom CCA scale? So if it’s a 300 CCA battery…. Do you apply 150 amps on top scale or 150 CCA on bottom scale? Thanks! (I figured you’d know this!)
With 300cca battery you would apply 300 on the bottom scale to match the battery. The top scale is the actual amp load being put onto the battery (150 amps in the case).
How can these small wires and battery carry the amps require to start a car. Good jumper cables use #4 - #6 gauge wire. It seems to defy physics. Great video.
The shorter the wire length, the thinner the wire gauge you can get away with.
Check out the charging parameters of the unit in watching utube videos I found out sealed lead acid batteries should not be discharged below 12. Volts and should be charged to 14.8 ideal is to keep them between 13.4 and 14.8 for storage with a battery maintainer but my old dead booster packs chargers were all 12 volt out so since my old black and decker was handy I took it apart to find out what the battery manufacturer website said the charging parameters were but written right on the battery was do not discharge below 12.2 float charge is 13.4 and full charge is 14.8 and on the built in charger was output 12 volts so it was no wonder it failed it was dead to start with and being discharged way too far since I had bought everstart from Walmart I checked to see what it was charged to 13.1 so I phoned everstart they said for their batteries that was fully charged so I used the two of them for boosting my pt cruiser each one gave me 5 boosts which I need as my pt cruiser has a glitch sometimes if I start out with a fully charged battery I can start and stop it every time I go from one stop to another other times every time I shut it off I've got to boost it it's the weirdest thing I've driven it 2 hrs shut it off and had to boost it on another time I I drove it a mile shut it down and it fired right up went across the street and had to boost it vs my booster packs are used quite often I've also used them to boost my Ford cube van but after a year I noticed that the amount of boosts I could get from the booster packs had dropped from 5 to 4 and quickly to 3 so I hooked my charger up to the cables and turned on the cables and plugged it in the first time I charged it it got to 90 % 13.1 volts I left it charging for a day but it wouldn't get any better but I found after a few uses and recharging it through the cables it would finally read full charge but at 13.9 volts since then I've got another year out of it and am hoping for one more but I will say don't buy ever start booster packs with the compressor and 400 watt modified sine wave inverter the first time I used the compressor on the one after 10 minutes I tried to turn it off and it didn't shut off since most 12 volt compressor burn out I'f you run them too long I hooked it up to my old Ford turned the light on I thought it would have a low voltage shut off but I had to kill the battery to dead I thought it would reset but I had to open it up and cut the wire to the compressor last Wednesday I stopped to help my neice her tiire had a slow leak and had gone flat so I pulled out my booster pack that still had an unused compressor to fill it up and it didn't work at all so both have faulty compressors haven't tried the inverters yet now that I'm not working I don't need them used to use them to charge my cordless tools when working as quite often there was no power
Got a question for you Moe, is it safe to use an 18v tool battery to jump start a car? I just assembled a jump starter using booster leads with reverse charging protection and placed a fuse holder coming from the Makita battery adapter, will the 20volts coming from the Makita battery damage anything? I am assuming that because the current is going directly into the car battery and not the electrical system that it would be ok for short charges or a boost, or should there be a resistor used to drop the voltage?
Great question. What generally happens when people try this is they short out their tool battery. They do this by attempting to start it while connected or the battery is so low that it draws too much. These can only dump out about 60 amps before they start shorting out the internal fuse ( fusible link ) of the battery. If the battery is just low barely won't start the car. Connecting this up will give your 18-volt tool battery and work out but it'll just charge. Have to let it sit there for a good few minutes and it may give you enough for a final attempt. Now the increased voltage: I've seen alternators peak a little over 15 volts on a dead battery. The peak 20 volts of the 18-volt pack is pushing the limits of the system. If it was an older car, I wouldn't even give it a second thought. On something modern, I would probably remove the battery terminal on one side and let this tool battery charge directly to the car battery at its 18/20 volts.
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks Moe
Is there a chance you will be building a solar generator anytime soon? I have been following your channel for a few years. Thanks for all the great content.
I have thought about it a few times. However, every time I start crunching the numbers the raw cost of the batteries nearly matches the cost of just buying a completed unit. I would have to source reclaimed batteries to make it feasible.
I upgraded my Walmart all in one lead acid jumper to headways. With those cells it is supposed to put out a continuous 400 amps. Cranks all day on want ever I need just have to watch the cables they get warm.
I saw those a few years back. They look like they pack a punch.
I plan on building a 4s 1p for the lawn mower this spring should out last the mower