Power Wheels Dune Racer PWM speed controller and variable speed pedal (with Soft Start) installation
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2024
- PWM Soft Start/Soft Stop Variable Speed DC Motor Speed Controller - tinyurl.com/48...
Variable Speed Pedal Electric Pedal - tinyurl.com/2h...
12 AWG Inline Fuse Holder with 30A ATC/ATO Blade Fuse, 5 Pack -
tinyurl.com/yr...
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Parts Used
PWM Soft Start/Soft Stop Variable Speed DC Motor Speed Controller - tinyurl.com/48a42yvw
Variable Speed Pedal Electric Pedal - tinyurl.com/2h7zbt8w
12 AWG Inline Fuse Holder with 30A ATC/ATO Blade Fuse, 5 Pack -
tinyurl.com/yrud499v
The links seem to be dead, where did you purchase these items?
Drill/lawnmower batteries are small enough, that you can have a similar runtime rating, in a smaller package. You might want to consider having two battery packs in parallel - located in the back. You can get adapters that you can permanently mount to something, so that they are easily swapped out for charging. This allows you to remove the batteries when you're not using the vehicle - to keep the batteries out of extreme heat or extreme cold, during summer or winter. The front is a nice place for the battery, but it might not be as convenient to access as having the battery/batteries in the back.
Some motor controllers have a brake function built in. You would just need to wire the shift lever to the motor controller, so that it also handles the forward and reverse functionality. Then, you could rig an additional pedal for braking - just in case the conditions call for it. It might be a good time to train on the brake/accelerator configuration, that your typical automobile has.
Nice! I really wish they came stock with variable speed and soft start/stop. I get that it’s cheaper to have a basic on/off switch for the pedal but boy does it make a difference in how it feels as well as eliminating so many problems with spinning out and/or ruining the gears.
Any by far the soft start / stop is the best feature - a must have really.
Hey Anthony - great video and great project! So I've been looking to do the exact same thing for my son's dune racer that I picked up for $60. He is only 1.5 years old, so it is my winter project. The question I have for you is how you wired everything together? Did you disassemble the shifter and replace it with a DPDT switch ? What do you do with the three wires from the pedal? Also, I want to use my dewalt battery packs so I need to install a low voltage cut-off. Again, great video, i would just love to see some more detail 🙂
Hey @Cannonjanes994 did you ever end up doing this? I am also wondering what to do with the three wires coming off the pedal. Any tips would be appreciated - thanks
Hi guys, sorry for the late response. The original 3 wires (only 2 actually used, the red and orange) were used from the controller (power out) which first goes to the shifter, then uses the factory wiring to the 2 motors. To your question on replacing the shifter with a DPDT switch….that’s what already in the shifter box, 2 actually. One is used to flip polarity, so forward then revers, the other was wired to half the voltage, hence 1st gear speed, 2nd gear speed. So the shifter was not modified. In the video I mentioned removing one of the forward speeds (by eliminating one of the switches, but we ended up putting it back in place, as it was more fun for the kids to shift. Plus easier to explain to the little kids to stay in ‘1st Gear. Since the video we did end up using two 12volt batteries in series (one front, one back). 2nd gear is now the full 24volts, 1st gear is like stock speed at 12volts, and reverse is limited at 12volts.
Pretty slick!
How is it downhill without the braking function on the original pedal? I’m about to do the same mod on a Peg Perego Gator. I was hoping to use only the variable pedal, but as it is a bit hilly here, I was wondering if I might need to rewire the original pedal as a brake pedal.
The motors do have ‘some’ resistance while in the forward positions, but we noticed that if coasting downhill even more resistance is gained by shifting into reverse. No throttle necessary but being in the opposite gear then the vehicle is moving had greater resistance then if the same direction. My son got used to shifting into Reverse if needing to slow down more quickly. I did purchase the relay and brake reduction resistor to wire up the original pedal as a brake, just haven’t had the opportunity. If any obstacles in the way, trees, rocks, ect, wiring in a brake would be highly recommended.
@ thanks for your reply. I’ll start with the gas pedal and see how it works out alone. I have purchased a LED upgrade resistor for cars that should do the trick for softer braking, if I add a pedal.
Hi thanks for posting. I’m trying to replicate your set up on my Escalade. Can you explain how you connected the wiring from the new PWM to the existing 3-pin connector found under the stock pedal?
Hi, Not sure how the escalade is wired, and basing some of this off memory. Because two of the 3 wires (red and orange) went from the front to the shifter box, we used those as a jump point to tie in the front mounted battery. Keep in mind, eliminating that 3rd wire (white) that goes straight to the rear battery compartment is what applies the braking effect when off throttle. So in our setup we lost that braking.
Love ot
Hey good job! I connected a motor governor on mine that includes both a slow start and slow stop function. I had to connect the PWM after the pedal for the slow start to work, but could not make the slow stop to work, so I lifted (cut) the ground cable on the pedal and to my surprise the slow stop started to work. Not sure to leave it like that or add a recommended resister on that ground connection on the pedal. I thought I'd share this discovery for whatever its worth. I have read that the ground connection on a power wheels pedal is to help short the motor in order to stop it cold. But if the ground connection there is cut, well the governor is now in total control-- I think?! I would have to test this without the governor to see what happens... But I already got everything wired, crimped and wire tied, that I don't want to rewire it to test this theory.... Hopefully someone can test this to see what a default wiring will do if they cut the ground cable on the pedal. Will it work? Will it stop hard or slow?
Hi, thank you! I can’t speak to the removal of the ground wire as I simply used two of those 3 pedal wires to transfer power from our front mounted PWM though the shifter, to the dual motors. Having eliminated the stock pedal I’m not sure how that operates with the 3-wire setup, also why I like the PWM we found as the new gas pedal connects directly. I’m interested to know which PWM / speed controller you went with. My first attempt also used a soft start/stop PWM after the pedal, but before the motors. It worked for one wheel motor, but when trying to connect both motors it didn’t. I believe the unit we tried wasn’t rated for that much power, or possible we wired it incorrectly. We then used the setup in the video.
In our case, after reading the supplied directions again, what I missed on the first go around was that you can configure things as we did in the video, or also add a second pedal which operates as a soft stop brake. That was one area I was not happy as the car coasts further then comfortable if on a hill. Once we try the second pedal, I’ll add a pinned comments with any updates.
Cab you share parts list ? Iam in search of a adjustable soft start module. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi, I didn't realize YT was chopping off the links already in the description. Added Tiny URL's and clickable links in pinned comment. Thanks for watching.
@@asim197GT can you provide a little more info on how you wired the 3 pin connector from the original pedal? Looks like you hooked up the M+ and M- terminals from the PWM to two of the pins. I would like to replicate this. On what pins did you land the M+ and M- wires? Where is that white wire going? On my Escalade, the white wire connecting to that terminal is coming from the positive battery terminal…is that the same case here?
@@Kww118-r1u If I remember correctly, and based on the video, the white goes from the old pedal to the rear battery compartment, which we did not use in our case. Only used the red and orange to connect the motor outputs (+/-) through the front ‘firewall’ battery compartment mounted PWM and those go to the shifter box which will reverse polarity to the motors when using the shifter. To tie the front and rear batteries together new leads were installed. We only just recently added (2) 12v batteries in series, and might have to make an updated video.
Did you have to do any mods at all to get the new pedal to fit with the existing pedal plate?
Yes, the new hall effect pedal does extend past it's own base when depressed, so we had to trim the existing hole larger to make it work. If you have a 3D printer available also found a replacement pedal box made specifically for the hall effect pedal.
Hello, Are those 775's? What battery are you using?
Thank you.
Hi, the battery in the video was from another power wheels, but since then we replaced (and rewired) to use 2 12volt9AH mighty max batteries in series giving us 24 volts. As noticed in the video using these controllers plus the extra resistance from all the wiring seemed to have less voltage to the motors (untested, but that's how it looked & felt). The motors are still working from the original dune racer so we haven't replaced them, which I believe are the 550's, so pushing about 10mph when at 24volts. If on a lot of hills the 775's would be recommended, but top speed would be reduced.
Building out my sons Dune Extreme and I did the same PWM to old pedal wires connection, but am running into a weird issue.
I can’t get the new pedal (that come with and is wired directly to the PWM) to work. I found out through trial that the knob on the PWM controls the wheel speed when I twist it clockwise or counter clockwise and if the switch is switched to position “1”. Position “2” does nothing and there are no signs that the pedal works…
Anyone have this issue? Is this a faulty PWM?
I had hoped to make a follow up video with changes since the initial build, but that controller featured in the video did eventually fail, like many others seem to have happened as well. I never saw that condition you described, but eventually the PWN was just dead. Replaced with a 500w scooter speed controller many other folks also use. Does not have the soft start with every press, but the throttle is hall effect and variable speed. Kids learned to feather the throttle, and the soft start wasn’t as important. The new controller has been solid since.