For the average home kitchen, how long are the diamond and/or ceramic discs expected to last? Have you kept a rough count or estimate on how many knives you have sharpened before needing to replace a disc or do the discs last for years? I just ordered a Hone sharpener with an additional 200 grit disc and the free ceramic disc. I am wondering if I should go ahead and have another disc or two of each grit for the future. Also, LOVE your videos! YOU are the reason I decided on the Hone. You saved me some money, answered my concerns about small knives and steered me away from Horl. Also kept me from wasting money on inferior products. So far, yours is the only channel I have found that consistently shows real world examples with no hype and helps people to make an educated decision. Great job!
@@markb461 thank you so much Mark. I make these video for people to see there really is a quality product. So I have used my original discs and done probably 100 knifes and have NOT changed to a new disc. I flip them over every few knives. I also keep all my knives honed and leather stropped so if I do need to sharpen, I use the 2000 now (used to use the 1000 before they came out with the 2000 and the use the ceramic. I am imagining using those fine grits probably at least a year for me so that probably means years for the average person before ever having the need to change the disc. I never use the 700 any longer as all my knives are kept honed and razor sharp with only the 2000 1x a month for maybe 20 strokes back and forth on each side then the honing disc for about 20 or it feels buttery smooth then the leather strop. 200 grit is for repairing super dull, slightly chipped/damage knives. I would not use that for every day sharpening. Hope that helps!
The HONE sharpener is a game changer. I have a bouquet of knife sharpeners; they all work, it’s a function of how much time and effort spent on the blade. Out of the box, this gizmo has been the shortest , quickest path from dull to razor sharp that I have ever used. With essentially just two parts, the roller and knife holder, there’s nothing to set up, adjust, calibrate, etc. Once you have the blade as sharp as you desire ( the primary job goes remarkably fast ), touch ups are as simple as a few honing “rolls” on each side to keep it that way. I keep the HONE next to my main knife block; when I’m waiting for something to come up to heat, thaw, or cool down or just standing in the kitchen, I’ll pop a knife into the holder and and give it a quick tuneup ready for the next use. One tip to pass along: knife sharpening experts advise that diamond coated abrasive surfaces be wetted with water ( not oil ! ) before using them. I have a little spritz bottle next to the Hone and give the plate one squirt before and after - this helps to loosen any grit on the plate so that it doesn’t clog the surface and so it can be easily wiped off with a cloth. p.s. I also use a leather strop block for that razor’s edge.
+@jimseviltwin1 glad to hear it! Yes you can use a little water or I use an all purpose cleaning spray that is bio safe and will not harm the knife finish but I am keeping it simple for the average sharpener person so as to not make thinks complex. I will be doing more in depth deep dives on things such as maximizing grinds on the HONE, and deburring secondary burrs and honing. However I am putting out a set of videos on all the basics first so someone can enjoy the results of using the HONE without getting into too much that overwhelms folks who just want to sharpen their kitchen knives 😎. I really appreciate your comment and nice to see my videos are adding value! A lot more to come on the HONE especially the new mod they are releasing so anyone with a HONE will be able to sharpen any angle knife. This also means one will be able to re-edge their knives to any angle. I love 17°degrees so I will show a video doing that as well which takes more time but the results are fantastic. Stay tuned!
Hi there. This is a knife 99% of average kitchen knife users and bbq backyard users never have heard of (my main subscriber base). I think it’s a cool looking knife with a lot of controversy around that grind. I would love to get my hands on one just for fun but I would never use it. A good article for those reading these comments is here: www.bushcraftsurvivalacademy.com/academy-journal/best-bushcraft-knife-the-great-scandi-grind-controversy
Now that I have checked, this will be fine for easy tune up for kitchen type knives without the flat area behind the blade edge for extra strength like most knives I buy to collect and carry. Perhaps they will add a row of smaller magnets across the top edge of the holder, I know for a fact that they make smaller magnets of the same type.
I don’t have the angle ranges. I have never used a knife that is 10° as my Japanese Yanagiba is 12°. I’ll definitely be posting a full video once I get it!
Couldn’t find the Pro kit, just ordered the Hone with a 3000 ceramic and Hutsuls brown leather strop separately. Got a neat little Kershaw pocket knife I’m looking forward to putting a razor sharp edge on.
That's awesome. The 3000 ceramic is really what you will use the most over all and the Hutsuls strops are fantastic. honesharp.com/products/hone-pro-accessories is the pro kit which also includes the new 2000 ceramic and anglemate which is a great value.
@@mburke1942 I usually do the passes until a burr on one side and then when I remove the burr I will then go to the next finer grit. There isn’t a magic number but a feel you get with practice. It also depends what kind of steel, how hard it is, etc. Wish I had a better answer.
Hi Philip, you should be honing with a ceramic after every use. Really depends on the feel. I would start with a 1000 diamond, then a 2000 then 3000 ceramic hone and finish with a leather strop.
I wasn’t sure about the small knife positioning (like angling the tip up), glad you confirmed it and it works super! With the exception of the #700 disk I’ve purchased the others and debating getting that one. I see it’s available in the kit but not individually yet. Without it, would one just need to use the #1000 disk for a longer duration than with it?
Well 400 to 1000 is a jump so 700 is a great mid grit. Progression in smaller increments also lets you establish a more consistent burr (and secondary burr). Just like 1000 to honing (it would be nice to have a 2000 for deburring the 1000 and then moving to the ceramic. There is a great book a knife expert referred me to called “KNIFE DEBURRING Science behind the lasting razor edge” by Dr. Vadim Kraich. A fantastic read on this process. I will do more advances videos down the road, but with the 200, 400, 700, 1000 and 3000 you are set. I also like 700 as taking a knife that is dull but not horrible can be hit with 700 for quick one grit (I need it sharp in 1 minute). I use a Tormek T-1 power sharpener for multi-knife days which is a 600 grit diamond wheel and that alone with honing and stropping gets my knives in the 100’s on the BESS tester. So there are numerous factors and having those grit options gives you a more accurate starting point rather than “should I use the 400 or 1000. You’ll see Work Sharp diamond plate sharpeners that have 3 sides (some) have 320, 600 and 800. The stropping is really the final stage of sharpening so on my recent video today you’ll see I tool a knife from 700 down to 400ish and then stropping brought me down in the 100’s.
@@brembofly oh yes. Once my knife is wicked sharp I only hone and strop for probably at least a month and maybe two with some knives. No need to keep taking off steel constantly to keep it sharp.
It worked lousy on my crkt lck, scratched up the blade badly, and doesn’t stay still, doubt I will be able to sharpen the 1/3 of of the the tip end of it at all. This knife is not a paper thin stamped item. It works fine on larger knives, but this video is misleading. I even tried putting a board under the sharpener, but this only exposes the end 1/2 of the knife, and the magnets do not extend to the upper edge at all. The blade moves with every stroke. I bought this because I have an electric belt knife sharpener and had a knife slice a sanding belt to ribbons, it happened sharpening a large knife in front of a friend, it was both startling and embarrassing, but I guess it will be much easier than using this thing. Hopefully, it will work good on my paring, utility, and whatever that third small wustoff knife is called, since they are flatter.
Can you use magnetic rubber strip for the small knife blade to rest on? It would allow the knife to rest higher thereby exposing the blade to the honing discs. I am looking into it myself but it would be a nice accessory to include with the kit if it works effectively.
@@UkuleleJayBBQ I see that but the edge of the blade on smaller knives are below the rubber. You show how to put the small knife on an angle to expose the edge of the blade to the hone. If they had a spacer that could be placed on the small knife rest location , it would raise the whole knife above the rubber allowing the knife blade to be sharpened without positioning it on an angle. I can send a photo to demonstrate if that would help.
If you have a narrow knife, or have a knife with a narrow tapered blade, that has a flat grind past the edge, the magnets will grab the flat part which will leave a gap between the knife edge and the actual edge of blade rest, this results in the blade tilting towards the blade rest as you sharpen, giving a rounded, ugly edge. I managed to say that all within the rules, I think.
@@beyondergalactus7308 hi there. I have not had any issues with any knife so i would have to see a photo to understand. Send it to me on Facebook or Instagram @ukulelejaybbq as I have not seen that yet. Thanks!
If you 3D print out a 3° angle jig, you can change 15 to 18. A 5° to change to to 25. The magnet is strong enough to still hold the knife. I think thats what HONE new jig is going to look like. 😅 All and All Hone got to expensive especially for this type of sharpener. A full set will probably be close to work sharp pro precision or save a little more and buy a tormek T1 😊 Dont get me wrong I was all HONE till all these upgrades got expensive.
I have all of them. You need to do what you are comfortable with. They all cost more $ as you get the accessories. Can’t compare manual sharpeners to Tormek. I have the T-1 and a T-4 Chef’s Edition is on the way. No manual sharpener can compete with a power sharpener expecially the Tormek line. However I cater to the average person who doesn’t even know any brands or the difference between a rolling, plate or concave diamond sharpener. All excellent for their uses. Of course the T-4 and T-8 is for repairing knives, polishing blades as well as sharpening, honing, etc.
For the average home kitchen, how long are the diamond and/or ceramic discs expected to last? Have you kept a rough count or estimate on how many knives you have sharpened before needing to replace a disc or do the discs last for years? I just ordered a Hone sharpener with an additional 200 grit disc and the free ceramic disc. I am wondering if I should go ahead and have another disc or two of each grit for the future. Also, LOVE your videos! YOU are the reason I decided on the Hone. You saved me some money, answered my concerns about small knives and steered me away from Horl. Also kept me from wasting money on inferior products. So far, yours is the only channel I have found that consistently shows real world examples with no hype and helps people to make an educated decision. Great job!
@@markb461 thank you so much Mark. I make these video for people to see there really is a quality product. So I have used my original discs and done probably 100 knifes and have NOT changed to a new disc. I flip them over every few knives. I also keep all my knives honed and leather stropped so if I do need to sharpen, I use the 2000 now (used to use the 1000 before they came out with the 2000 and the use the ceramic. I am imagining using those fine grits probably at least a year for me so that probably means years for the average person before ever having the need to change the disc. I never use the 700 any longer as all my knives are kept honed and razor sharp with only the 2000 1x a month for maybe 20 strokes back and forth on each side then the honing disc for about 20 or it feels buttery smooth then the leather strop. 200 grit is for repairing super dull, slightly chipped/damage knives. I would not use that for every day sharpening. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the video. I just purchased the pro Pack with all the belts and whistle. Great video
You are all set! Make sure to watch my video on the AngleMate so you can sharpen any angle. Have fun!
@UkuleleJayBBQ i can't fine the anglemate where can I fine it
@@ArsenicElement make sure to leather strop at the end for the ultimate sharp edge.
Very useful thank you I bought the Hone based on your comparison test and this video. The ability to sharpen a pocket knife is really useful.
Appreciate you watching. It’s a great sharpener.
The HONE sharpener is a game changer. I have a bouquet of knife sharpeners; they all work, it’s a function of how much time and effort spent on the blade. Out of the box, this gizmo has been the shortest , quickest path from dull to razor sharp that I have ever used. With essentially just two parts, the roller and knife holder, there’s nothing to set up, adjust, calibrate, etc. Once you have the blade as sharp as you desire ( the primary job goes remarkably fast ), touch ups are as simple as a few honing “rolls” on each side to keep it that way. I keep the HONE next to my main knife block; when I’m waiting for something to come up to heat, thaw, or cool down or just standing in the kitchen, I’ll pop a knife into the holder and and give it a quick tuneup ready for the next use. One tip to pass along: knife sharpening experts advise that diamond coated abrasive surfaces be wetted with water ( not oil ! ) before using them. I have a little spritz bottle next to the Hone and give the plate one squirt before and after - this helps to loosen any grit on the plate so that it doesn’t clog the surface and so it can be easily wiped off with a cloth. p.s. I also use a leather strop block for that razor’s edge.
+@jimseviltwin1 glad to hear it! Yes you can use a little water or I use an all purpose cleaning spray that is bio safe and will not harm the knife finish but I am keeping it simple for the average sharpener person so as to not make thinks complex.
I will be doing more in depth deep dives on things such as maximizing grinds on the HONE, and deburring secondary burrs and honing. However I am putting out a set of videos on all the basics first so someone can enjoy the results of using the HONE without getting into too much that overwhelms folks who just want to sharpen their kitchen knives 😎.
I really appreciate your comment and nice to see my videos are adding value! A lot more to come on the HONE especially the new mod they are releasing so anyone with a HONE will be able to sharpen any angle knife. This also means one will be able to re-edge their knives to any angle. I love 17°degrees so I will show a video doing that as well which takes more time but the results are fantastic. Stay tuned!
Hi, just ordered the Hone for delivery to the UK and was wondering if you were going to do a review on the mirror finish kit?
Hello. Yes I will be doing a video on them in the near future.
I would love to see you sharpen a bushcraft scandi edge. Interesting product.
Hi there. This is a knife 99% of average kitchen knife users and bbq backyard users never have heard of (my main subscriber base). I think it’s a cool looking knife with a lot of controversy around that grind. I would love to get my hands on one just for fun but I would never use it. A good article for those reading these comments is here: www.bushcraftsurvivalacademy.com/academy-journal/best-bushcraft-knife-the-great-scandi-grind-controversy
Now that I have checked, this will be fine for easy tune up for kitchen type knives without the flat area behind the blade edge for extra strength like most knives I buy to collect and carry. Perhaps they will add a row of smaller magnets across the top edge of the holder, I know for a fact that they make smaller magnets of the same type.
@@beyondergalactus7308 hello, the sharpener already comes with small magnets so I am not sure I understand?
I’m curious for the multi-angle solution. I have two German made Japanese Santoku style knives with a 10 degree bevels on each side
I don’t have the angle ranges. I have never used a knife that is 10° as my Japanese Yanagiba is 12°. I’ll definitely be posting a full video once I get it!
Couldn’t find the Pro kit, just ordered the Hone with a 3000 ceramic and Hutsuls brown leather strop separately. Got a neat little Kershaw pocket knife I’m looking forward to putting a razor sharp edge on.
That's awesome. The 3000 ceramic is really what you will use the most over all and the Hutsuls strops are fantastic. honesharp.com/products/hone-pro-accessories is the pro kit which also includes the new 2000 ceramic and anglemate which is a great value.
When use (i,e,) 400, 700, 1000, 2000, at what level do you start reducing the number of passes before doing the last blade, (3000 ceramic)?
@@mburke1942 I usually do the passes until a burr on one side and then when I remove the burr I will then go to the next finer grit. There isn’t a magic number but a feel you get with practice. It also depends what kind of steel, how hard it is, etc. Wish I had a better answer.
Can I use this on a small chip carving knife?
Absolutely. I would use the 400 or 200 first, then move to 700, 1000, 2000 and 3000 honing.
My chef knife has lost a little sharpness from new, what grit do I use to keep it factory sharp?
Hi Philip, you should be honing with a ceramic after every use. Really depends on the feel. I would start with a 1000 diamond, then a 2000 then 3000 ceramic hone and finish with a leather strop.
Thank You Sir! Your videos are very helpful! I'm buying the Hone soon!!
@@philipchesnut1422 my pleasure!
I wasn’t sure about the small knife positioning (like angling the tip up), glad you confirmed it and it works super! With the exception of the #700 disk I’ve purchased the others and debating getting that one. I see it’s available in the kit but not individually yet. Without it, would one just need to use the #1000 disk for a longer duration than with it?
Well 400 to 1000 is a jump so 700 is a great mid grit. Progression in smaller increments also lets you establish a more consistent burr (and secondary burr). Just like 1000 to honing (it would be nice to have a 2000 for deburring the 1000 and then moving to the ceramic. There is a great book a knife expert referred me to called “KNIFE DEBURRING
Science behind the lasting razor edge” by Dr. Vadim Kraich. A fantastic read on this process. I will do more advances videos down the road, but with the 200, 400, 700, 1000 and 3000 you are set. I also like 700 as taking a knife that is dull but not horrible can be hit with 700 for quick one grit (I need it sharp in 1 minute). I use a Tormek T-1 power sharpener for multi-knife days which is a 600 grit diamond wheel and that alone with honing and stropping gets my knives in the 100’s on the BESS tester. So there are numerous factors and having those grit options gives you a more accurate starting point rather than “should I use the 400 or 1000. You’ll see Work Sharp diamond plate sharpeners that have 3 sides (some) have 320, 600 and 800. The stropping is really the final stage of sharpening so on my recent video today you’ll see I tool a knife from 700 down to 400ish and then stropping brought me down in the 100’s.
@UkuleleJayBBQ Thank You! I'm quite amazed at the difference stropping makes so far.
@@brembofly oh yes. Once my knife is wicked sharp I only hone and strop for probably at least a month and maybe two with some knives. No need to keep taking off steel constantly to keep it sharp.
It worked lousy on my crkt lck, scratched up the blade badly, and doesn’t stay still, doubt I will be able to sharpen the 1/3 of of the the tip end of it at all. This knife is not a paper thin stamped item. It works fine on larger knives, but this video is misleading. I even tried putting a board under the sharpener, but this only exposes the end 1/2 of the knife, and the magnets do not extend to the upper edge at all. The blade moves with every stroke. I bought this because I have an electric belt knife sharpener and had a knife slice a sanding belt to ribbons, it happened sharpening a large knife in front of a friend, it was both startling and embarrassing, but I guess it will be much easier than using this thing. Hopefully, it will work good on my paring, utility, and whatever that third small wustoff knife is called, since they are flatter.
Can you use magnetic rubber strip for the small knife blade to rest on? It would allow the knife to rest higher thereby exposing the blade to the honing discs. I am looking into it myself but it would be a nice accessory to include with the kit if it works effectively.
Hi there. Not sure I follow. The base has sides designed for small knives. No adapter is needed.
@@UkuleleJayBBQ I see that but the edge of the blade on smaller knives are below the rubber. You show how to put the small knife on an angle to expose the edge of the blade to the hone. If they had a spacer that could be placed on the small knife rest location , it would raise the whole knife above the rubber allowing the knife blade to be sharpened without positioning it on an angle. I can send a photo to demonstrate if that would help.
@@wizkid8238 ah ha! Thanks for explaining! Would love to see it! Jay@ukulelejaybbq.com
Sent pics via email
@@wizkid8238 thanks!
Are they not selling the Hone sharpener on Amazon anymore?
They are restocking, they sold out. You can get it direct currently. Not sure when it will be back up.
@UkuleleJayBBQ I'll wait till it's back on Amazon I normally get a bunch of Amazon gift cards for Christmas
@@greglasseigne9493 sounds good. Merry Christmas.
Can they bought in the UK
I am not sure. I know someone bought one in Australia they told me but emailed HONE.
Love To See You Sharpen A Katana
Don’t own one but that would be fun to do.
If you have a narrow knife, or have a knife with a narrow tapered blade, that has a flat grind past the edge, the magnets will grab the flat part which will leave a gap between the knife edge and the actual edge of blade rest, this results in the blade tilting towards the blade rest as you sharpen, giving a rounded, ugly edge. I managed to say that all within the rules, I think.
@@beyondergalactus7308 hi there. I have not had any issues with any knife so i would have to see a photo to understand. Send it to me on Facebook or Instagram @ukulelejaybbq as I have not seen that yet. Thanks!
If you 3D print out a 3° angle jig, you can change 15 to 18. A 5° to change to to 25. The magnet is strong enough to still hold the knife. I think thats what HONE new jig is going to look like. 😅
All and All Hone got to expensive especially for this type of sharpener. A full set will probably be close to work sharp pro precision or save a little more and buy a tormek T1 😊
Dont get me wrong I was all HONE till all these upgrades got expensive.
I have all of them. You need to do what you are comfortable with. They all cost more $ as you get the accessories. Can’t compare manual sharpeners to Tormek. I have the T-1 and a T-4 Chef’s Edition is on the way. No manual sharpener can compete with a power sharpener expecially the Tormek line. However I cater to the average person who doesn’t even know any brands or the difference between a rolling, plate or concave diamond sharpener. All excellent for their uses. Of course the T-4 and T-8 is for repairing knives, polishing blades as well as sharpening, honing, etc.