Great video, I looked everywhere for good information on how to set the valve lash. This has got to be one of the most simplistic systems I've ever seen.
I have a snow track on 03' 525 SX so spinning the wheel / track wasn't working solo. I got it to what felt like was slack in the rockers, then pulled that crank locking bolt and screwed in without the washer to check if it was top dead center. Hopefully the lock bolt only goes in when it is tdc. Then my feeler gauges didn't want to slide in, like the rockers sat so low in the up of the valve spring .... I ended doing that 1/6 turn method. It's is starting better than before for sure. Good video thanks. Better than 98% of the ones I found
I followed all the steps but when I try to put the spec feeler in between the lifter and the spring it doesn’t fit even when I adjust the screw all the way out. Anyone know what’s going on?
@@jayinla228Thanks for the reply. Checked ur video - I've had the impression that you check both intake and exhause at the same TDC position. You wait for the intake (only) to dip, straw flyes out, then you bump the tyre to the TDC and check all 4 valves. Youre doing it differently but that worked too? Thanks again.
@@AxisDSTC Sorry I thought I replied earlier - I was also under the same impression that both could be checked at the same time the way it is shown in some videos. I was never able to recreate those exact conditions so never trusted it. I do know that you can check one side then rotate the wheel slightly, watch them bounce, then check the other side. It has been working for me for years and the bike always fires up great right after.
Hello at 2:00to 2:10 you say set tp highest point,howitthat achieved? By only wiggling the rear wheel back and forth a little bit? If so,how to you stop it at the highest point? Thanks and great video
really nice vid it really helped me out! But after i was done i realised that it is vibrating more than i was used to. I only adjusted the valves and i am pretty shure that i hasve done it right but even if not is there a chance that a mistake of mine cases the vibrations ?
hello , i have a beta 525 rrIt's hard to start with the pedal and it has a hard point like in the video presented, it doesn't work with the battery because it doesn't have the power to rotate the battery being good. what can i do ?
@@abacanabanana hi, i also bought a 450 07 rfs bike. Is this video a good example for adjusting my valves? it starts perfectly with estart but poor with kickstart, might be my technique bc i am small havent had my big experienced friend test it yet.
@@ijean2478 if your bike has the auto decompression mechanism it should kick over easily. I have an RFS motor with and without auto decompression. Valves are usually the cause of hard starting. Should be a great place to start.
...or make the valveadjustment easier and faster.. the nut is a m6x0.75 , loosen the nut, screw the adjustment up a bit,then down so it just touches the valvetop,set one of the corners of the nut straight at the screwdriver cutout in the adjuster,and hold the nut still,now screw the adjustment back by one edge on the nut - done 0,75mm/6 = 0,125mm, takes secounds
@@logantolley4192 mine is in greater shape basically. Like i said, it sat still most of its life. I don't even find scratches on foot pegs much. I have not taken it out once since I bought it, only around the block to test. Sitting ever sense. Kinda sad.
@@logantolley4192 you can wetsand the whole thing down through starting with 320 grit all the way up to 2500 3000 grit. Then polish the exhaust. After you fire it up it will naturally change colors with blues, purples, gold, bronze. Just RUclips something like it. Did I it to mine.
I’ve spent some time doing valve clearance on my 450cc Ktm and it has a real stiff part in the middle of kick, I’m thinking it needs a new piston for sure!
@@frunsezkendricksjr1392 do a leak down check if your doin the work yourself mine had bad piston and intake valves i was lazy thought i could get away with just piston nope had to open it up again to swap out valves and it was only 100 extra make sure you remove carb to do leakdown makes big difference
i really hope that a new piston isn your first guess for hard start and '' chasing valve adjust'' ??? my dood , it takes no money and 45 min max. and a simple comp test will tell you if you need to tear down , or drain oil after kicking over, if the top end is bad fuel will bleed through the bad rings or hole in piston making oil smell like gas, and honestly if you ride your bike more than once a year you should be able to tell if your comp is down, and if you need a new piston , than 99.9% of the time you need a new jug, pos a new head, new gaskets, wit the ktms a full engine oiling systems flush, and then you out 500$+ so as someone who has been riding ktms for 20 years i will honestly say for hard start/no start CHASE VALVE ADJUSTMENT FIRST, then air/fuel adj, then fuel filter in tank, then any wiring, after that do compression test once the valves are adjusted , seating properly and providing a good seal. a leakdown test is just a comp test from the bottom up, takes more time, and not even relevant to hard starts. maybe just stick to riding and not wrenching.
@@skwissgaar_skwigelf_kdz3251 I’m a 2 stroke guy, I’m sure this message isn’t aimed for harm. But I got this bike on a trade and road it once, the guy bump started it. No kick start or electric start, the bike was pretty much free!
Great video, I looked everywhere for good information on how to set the valve lash. This has got to be one of the most simplistic systems I've ever seen.
I have watched many videos on the KTM valve adjustment. Your os by far the best. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
I have a snow track on 03' 525 SX so spinning the wheel / track wasn't working solo. I got it to what felt like was slack in the rockers, then pulled that crank locking bolt and screwed in without the washer to check if it was top dead center.
Hopefully the lock bolt only goes in when it is tdc. Then my feeler gauges didn't want to slide in, like the rockers sat so low in the up of the valve spring .... I ended doing that 1/6 turn method. It's is starting better than before for sure.
Good video thanks. Better than 98% of the ones I found
Wow your 525 looks brand new
Buying a new spark plug and cable and will do my valves tomorrow! Thanks for this vid fam! Hope i don't have to throw it over your fence
I followed all the steps but when I try to put the spec feeler in between the lifter and the spring it doesn’t fit even when I adjust the screw all the way out. Anyone know what’s going on?
That's a Mint 525sx What a Beauty! 😍
Nice video my 525 exc 2003 dosnt like start when hot not had bike long gonna do all filters and check valve clearances thanks
Best video this worked for me immediately, thanks... post more videos I will be checking them out...
Glad it helped
So 12mm for the intake and exhaust ?
I have the same motor on my Polaris outlaw 525 quad I believe. So thank you for this help
Amazing video! Clean and simple. Question: Does this apply for the 520 exc 2002 too?
The straw shot out but the exhaust valves are solid and do not move with wheel movement. Yours have a little play but mine do not.
I have the exact same problem. How did you solve yours?
@AxisDSTC I made my own video 4 years ago. That video actually does a good job showing when to check exhaust and intake, read the comment left there.
@@jayinla228Thanks for the reply. Checked ur video - I've had the impression that you check both intake and exhause at the same TDC position. You wait for the intake (only) to dip, straw flyes out, then you bump the tyre to the TDC and check all 4 valves. Youre doing it differently but that worked too? Thanks again.
@@AxisDSTC Sorry I thought I replied earlier - I was also under the same impression that both could be checked at the same time the way it is shown in some videos. I was never able to recreate those exact conditions so never trusted it. I do know that you can check one side then rotate the wheel slightly, watch them bounce, then check the other side. It has been working for me for years and the bike always fires up great right after.
Im gonna give your method a try. Thank you!
Hello at 2:00to 2:10 you say set tp highest point,howitthat achieved? By only wiggling the rear wheel back and forth a little bit? If so,how to you stop it at the highest point?
Thanks and great video
Set to TDC and yank the tire untill you see rocker lift to highest point exposing the gap.
Thank you! Got mine started
Nicely done video, thanks.
Hey Mate. Awesome video. Just wondering will this be the same procedure on my 2008 450 exc?
If engine looks the same, then yes.
Different clearance values maybe.
what space should be left for valve adjustment?
really nice vid it really helped me out! But after i was done i realised that it is vibrating more than i was used to. I only adjusted the valves and i am pretty shure that i hasve done it right but even if not is there a chance that a mistake of mine cases the vibrations ?
its not firing correctly. You must have made a mistake.
Why do you need the wheel off the ground and have to be in top gear can you not do this while in neutral and on the ground?
what fuel do you run in your 525?
hello , i have a beta 525 rrIt's hard to start with the pedal and it has a hard point like in the video presented, it doesn't work with the battery because it doesn't have the power to rotate the battery being good. what can i do ?
Why does your kick start get stuck when you try to kick it
in my case the intake valeves do not move, but the exhust valves do move. do you have any solution how is that?
then u need to find the right tdc try turning wheel more
Can this be done without draining the oil and not locking the engine in TDC with the bolt on the bottom of the engine?
Yes in this video it’s done without using the using the lock bolt. I have two RFS bikes with 200+ hours on each stock top end and use this method
@@abacanabanana Thank you
@@abacanabanana hi, i also bought a 450 07 rfs bike. Is this video a good example for adjusting my valves? it starts perfectly with estart but poor with kickstart, might be my technique bc i am small havent had my big experienced friend test it yet.
@@ijean2478 if your bike has the auto decompression mechanism it should kick over easily. I have an RFS motor with and without auto decompression. Valves are usually the cause of hard starting. Should be a great place to start.
...or make the valveadjustment easier and faster.. the nut is a m6x0.75 , loosen the nut, screw the adjustment up a bit,then down so it just touches the valvetop,set one of the corners of the nut straight at the screwdriver cutout in the adjuster,and hold the nut still,now screw the adjustment back by one edge on the nut - done 0,75mm/6 = 0,125mm, takes secounds
A very nice video. Thnx
how did you get your exhaust pipe to shine gold like that
Bike is practically brand new. Has very few hrs on it. Its still new so....
@@tonycstech Iv got a KTM 525sx 2005 is in great shape but the exhaust don’t shine like that
@@logantolley4192 mine is in greater shape basically.
Like i said, it sat still most of its life.
I don't even find scratches on foot pegs much.
I have not taken it out once since I bought it, only around the block to test.
Sitting ever sense. Kinda sad.
@@logantolley4192 you can wetsand the whole thing down through starting with 320 grit all the way up to 2500 3000 grit. Then polish the exhaust. After you fire it up it will naturally change colors with blues, purples, gold, bronze. Just RUclips something like it. Did I it to mine.
@@juliocvelez1 thanks man!
Bro two half pumps then full kick down
Really? The 525 valves are adjustable nut/bolt style!... REALLY?
Yes. RFS motors have that style of adjustment.
Some times you need a new piston dont spend to much time chasing valve adjustment on hard start
I’ve spent some time doing valve clearance on my 450cc Ktm and it has a real stiff part in the middle of kick, I’m thinking it needs a new piston for sure!
@@frunsezkendricksjr1392 do a leak down check if your doin the work yourself mine had bad piston and intake valves i was lazy thought i could get away with just piston nope had to open it up again to swap out valves and it was only 100 extra make sure you remove carb to do leakdown makes big difference
i really hope that a new piston isn your first guess for hard start and '' chasing valve adjust'' ??? my dood , it takes no money and 45 min max. and a simple comp test will tell you if you need to tear down , or drain oil after kicking over, if the top end is bad fuel will bleed through the bad rings or hole in piston making oil smell like gas, and honestly if you ride your bike more than once a year you should be able to tell if your comp is down, and if you need a new piston , than 99.9% of the time you need a new jug, pos a new head, new gaskets, wit the ktms a full engine oiling systems flush, and then you out 500$+ so as someone who has been riding ktms for 20 years i will honestly say for hard start/no start CHASE VALVE ADJUSTMENT FIRST, then air/fuel adj, then fuel filter in tank, then any wiring, after that do compression test once the valves are adjusted , seating properly and providing a good seal. a leakdown test is just a comp test from the bottom up, takes more time, and not even relevant to hard starts. maybe just stick to riding and not wrenching.
@@skwissgaar_skwigelf_kdz3251 I’m a 2 stroke guy, I’m sure this message isn’t aimed for harm. But I got this bike on a trade and road it once, the guy bump started it. No kick start or electric start, the bike was pretty much free!
Gotta learn how to kick a bike mate
I would suggest checking the spark, plug gap and wire prior to valve adjustment just saying