Frame jigs are out of stock with bee supply companies, so I need to make one. I'm thinking of making a 10-frame jig based on the above design, only with a bit larger notches, which (after inserting the end bars) I will tighten up with wedges.
1. loosen your jig so it doesn't hold the end bars so tight...makes it easier and faster...doesn't have to be that tight...frames will still be square....bees don't care that they are precisely square...just square enough to prevent propolising the end bar to the hive body 2. apply glue before you insert them into jig leave them stacked from the packaging...learn to grab 10 end bars at one time..... then squeeze glue onto the mating surface then brush to spread over all end bars in your hand...do both ends makes applying glue so much faster 3. learn to handle the pieces once and only once...create bins so you can simple take the bundle of parts and drop them into the bin and immediately start assembling...don't waste time unpacking and placing into a bucket...most people don't consider the time they spend just unpacking and handling....think lean manufacturing 4.use plastic foundation and insert it into the frame as you remove each frame from the jig and immediately place into the hive body you plan to place on the hives...handle as little as possible 5. mesure your tim by minutes per frame other wise good video...good comparison... 7 min 8 sec per 10 = .713 min/frame 18 min 9 se per 40 = .454 min / frame 36% reduction in time per frame
I don't like them because they go through the frame spacer on the end bar and I like to leave that clean so I can scrape the propolis off. The other style through the end, I don't care about either. I've never used them. Plus the glue really makes them pointless anyway. Maybe 1 in a hundred frames the glue breaks because of twisting in the wood and that's pretty much history anyway. So I just won't worry about it. Also, those nails are much more difficult to get out when the frame needs to have a part replaced. With just top and bottom nails, they pull right out.
You have convinced me, just in time for the starting of my 2017 frame assembly.
Thanks!
Frame jigs are out of stock with bee supply companies, so I need to make one. I'm thinking of making a 10-frame jig based on the above design, only with a bit larger notches, which (after inserting the end bars) I will tighten up with wedges.
You are very smart. Thanks for sharing it.
El conocimiento de la apicultura q brinda las redes siempre serán el Génesis de la vida es un servicio q no tené precio Eisten estaría orgulloso
1. loosen your jig so it doesn't hold the end bars so tight...makes it easier and faster...doesn't have to be that tight...frames will still be square....bees don't care that they are precisely square...just square enough to prevent propolising the end bar to the hive body
2. apply glue before you insert them into jig leave them stacked from the packaging...learn to grab 10 end bars at one time..... then squeeze glue onto the mating surface then brush to spread over all end bars in your hand...do both ends makes applying glue so much faster
3. learn to handle the pieces once and only once...create bins so you can simple take the bundle of parts and drop them into the bin and immediately start assembling...don't waste time unpacking and placing into a bucket...most people don't consider the time they spend just unpacking and handling....think lean manufacturing
4.use plastic foundation and insert it into the frame as you remove each frame from the jig and immediately place into the hive body you plan to place on the hives...handle as little as possible
5. mesure your tim by minutes per frame
other wise good video...good comparison...
7 min 8 sec per 10 = .713 min/frame
18 min 9 se per 40 = .454 min / frame
36% reduction in time per frame
Thanks for the advice.
Not going to be using plastic foundation until somebody makes it in small cell.
CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT SIZE THIS DEVICE HAS OR IF NOT A SKETCH (A DRAWING)
THANKK YOU !!!
You can find many designs online. Just search for "frame assembly jig."
Why do you omit the side nails from the side bar into the top bar?
I don't like them because they go through the frame spacer on the end bar and I like to leave that clean so I can scrape the propolis off. The other style through the end, I don't care about either. I've never used them. Plus the glue really makes them pointless anyway. Maybe 1 in a hundred frames the glue breaks because of twisting in the wood and that's pretty much history anyway. So I just won't worry about it. Also, those nails are much more difficult to get out when the frame needs to have a part replaced. With just top and bottom nails, they pull right out.
Estas son las cosas importantes de Google conocimiento científico pasado presente y futuro mil grscias
Bare foot I like it lol
Shoes cost money. Feet are free.