As a boy I was told the toilet door is the most important door in the house as other joiners sit on the loo and check for an even gap around the door, you know you do!!
Love the channel mate. I’m mid way through changing career to Carpentry because I realised I would rather hang a door than drive a Bentley! Wish I’d worked that out 15 years ago.
I'm 25 and thinking of getting into it, don't know if it's silly cause I'll be 29 earliest when I'm qualified and will be on fuck all money for four years. Already have a degree but I just hated it in office work. Don't know what to be doing, feels like I'd be falling behind if I did it
@@asscrackistan 25 is young and if you pick things up quick and hustle pay soon follows. And if it dont move on to another company quickly with what tricks you have learned. I made the mistake of staying in low paying jobs too long.
My old man taught me to use the existing door as a template. Before you take the old door off, look at it in the lining and note the gaps marking on the door if it needs more or less. The carefully lay the old door onto the new one and mark it up. This gives you a good starting point and saves alot of time.
My favourite tip for hinging a door is when you pre drill your screw holes put them slightly off centre favouring the back of the checkout. Then when the head of the screw gets to the counter sink in the hinge it pulls the hinge tight into the checkout
I prefer to offset the screw holes. This gives you some room for adjustment against the door stop. And yes the hinge stay straight. I know that because i do it all the time.
I’ve hung literally thousands of doors in my career and have accumulated many tricks over the years. I’ve always tried to keep an open mind, however, so really like the pump jack idea. I’ll relate one story. One winter I was asked to adjust a door that was difficult to make latch. This was a steel-skinned, in-swinging entry door. I checked it; yes, you really had to push hard to make it latch. I open the door, file a little on the strike plate, close the door and it latches smoothly. I go get the homeowner to demonstrate. I operate the door and it’s again hard to latch. Hmmm. Sorry, I say, gimme a minute. I open the door, file on the strike plate a little, the door again works beautifully. I get the homeowner again to demonstrate and the door is again hard to latch. What the heck? Then the lightbulb moment! As I’m filing the strike, the door is hanging in the relative warmth of the interior space. It is essentially the same temperature on both sides and is therefore flat. When I close it, the outside skin starts cooling and shrinking, causing the outside of the door to become concave in the minute it took me to retrieve the homeowner. Mystery solved. Solution: Spring.
@Kristopher Jayce nobody do this; it's most likely a keylogger or a phishing scam. This account was made 3 days ago. Mordechai Devon is probably the same person, account was made 5 days ago.
Lots of talk about using a centering jig To install the screws for the hinges. I put the screw in just back of center this way it will be pulled tight to the cut out of the mortise. Once it touches the back side it will stop and the screw will sit perfectly
Great videos mate. I always make a stand for when checking out hinges on a loose leaf. Two pieces of 4x2 on their edge sitting on ground. Cut a slot in each, one side square and one angle so you can tap a wedge in. Stands the door up securely so you can work on it
yep me too, learnt it from an old boy in the uk where i did my apprenticeship, also i tend to cut my own jigs for hinges out of a piece of door liner, that way you can use any router bit.
little tip i use, the philips screw bit that you use to put the screws in is perfect for giving you a center, provided you use t17 cutting screws (the ones with the slot at the start of the thread) you dont need to pre drill the holes... way quicker
As a professional carpenter, you always pre-drill even with a self cutting tip screw when it comes to the new garage material these door manufacturers use. You run the risk of spiting the material if you don’t predrill
Hey Scott great vid, a tip I use is I place 2 £1 coins on top of a door and pump it up then mark hinges and keep gaps all equal, helps also to c what may need trimming off the top if it’s an old out of level liner/casing, keep up the good work
love the vids. I pretty much hang new doors in old frames the same as you do. But new doors in new frames, i always use a story pole. Maybe I'm getting old but I just find it easier to get a piece of timber a bit shorter then the door, keep it flush with the top of the door and mark my hinges on it and then use it to mark all the doors. Then when I'm marking the frames, I put a €2 coin between the pole and the head of the frame. I also use the bucket boss for the locks and handles, saves your back big time as you're sitting on a tall bucket with your tools in the pockets just below your arse!
I like hanging doors in old houses as every one is different. Sometimes you get a jamb thats so out of plumb and out of wind you need to pull out all the tricks! Love the vids
Use a Stanley knife to mark hinges. Always more accurate than a pencil ever could be!! Also pre dill the hinge holes slightly to one side of the hole so the screws pull the hindge into the checkout of the door!!
Hahaha, "You may have a Bentley but can you hang a door!" My Dad who was a carpenter, always said you can tell a good carpenter from how he hangs a door. :-)
you dont need them, modern screws are self cutting and you can use your philips bit to give a center depression, much quicker than swapping drills and no loss of quality.
Scott, I love your safety socks! Here in Germany people always walk in their work boots into houses and apartments due to safety regulations. But at least they are allowed to put socks over their boots.
I recently took on a job to help a friend hang a stable door at his house. It was very difficult because the frame was out and I used the existing cut outs on the frame for the hinges. I would really appreciate seeing how you hang a stable door. Cheers thanks for the great videos.
my tip is when dealing with old houses, if a frame is seriously out of level/twisted etc, sometimes it is easy/better to just replace the frame so you can have nice level frame with even gaps around the door
When I put new doors inside an old twisted or bowed frame. I cut it to fit right inside the frame and then scribe the door and use a power planer. Old frames are rarely plumb, never mind straight.
Your uncle Sandy's comments were gold. For new jambs, I make a storey rod with the 3mm gap up top and the marks of where hinges go, then transfer onto jambs whilst on the bench for cutting and routing. When it comes time for the doors, I cut the 3mm off the storey rod and mark the hinge locations on the doors. I always mark the top and bottom of hinges using a Stanley knife, more accurate than a pencil mark. Then I trace the outline of the hinge deeply with a Stanley knife, that saves me from using a chisel. After I've routered the hinge location, I clean up using my stanley knife.
I do doors alot. I'd say about 80% of my jobs this year have been replacing doors. But here in the UK the frames are always terrible! Tip I'd give you is to mark the hinge out with a Stanley knife. And use a wheeled marking gauge for the width of the leaf. You'll end up with a much tighter fitting hinge. Also the latch face plates. Stanley knife all the way.
I am a DIYer and have hung a lot of doors for family friends, however i never new there was a specific lockside on a hollowcore door, i am always learning, so thanks scott brown,
Lovin your channel bro, tips! I use window packets to check my margins. They are all different colours and is a accurate way to measure the margins. I need that blow up bladder the lift the door! I’ll see if we get them in the uk. Ooow, with new doors in old frames I usually make a load of large pointed match sticks and plug the old holes first. Gives the new screws a chance to grip or not pass to the old hole if they are close.
Love how u say it’s always “but can you hang a door” that happens so often haha That’s one thing in our trade that there’s always one bloke that is the best and quickest at hanging doors.
Thanks for this Bro. I've got Door and door furniture at college next Tuesday. I'll be honest mate I was watching this channel before I even started my apprenticeship, you're so helpful. Watching your channel helps alot with being more confident at work. Keep it up Scott Episode 200 is only around the corner.
Panel doors hung upside down really grinds my gears ! Doors that are hung on the wrong side ,meaning there is no 'lock block' to fit the lock into really grinds my gears too.
I recently had this same door change job. I use a power planner to cut the doors down to size. Also I primed the cut edges before hanging the doors on the hinge. I am only telling you because you asked 😆
I always place my door into the jamb and scribe it to suit. This is for new or existing jambs. You guys have it pretty good over there though with your doors already backed off haha. Backing your door off is a good habit to get into. A coupe of passes with the planer and you won’t have any grief with the door.
I'm in New England (USA) and do a lot of repairs/remodels on 200-300 year old houses.... I see door frames all the time that are 4 inches out of square. After seeing you trimming those slabs with that tracksaw, I immediately went looking for one on Amazon.
Love the channel . One tip I would mention is that you should seal /undercoat the bottom of the door before it's hung , especially in wet areas . Otherwise The bottom of the door will swell and crack over time .
I freehand the hinge cutouts with a small router I had years , it's fun when you turn up at a house and frames way out , I actually know joiners that wont hang doors
One trick I could add. Close the door onto a screw driver or chisel (at the hinge) to bend the hinge out a little. Packing the back of a hinge out a little with cardboard can work too (trim it after it is in). I've hung a lot of doors.
I made a jig for hanging doors using a router, One side to route out the door than roll it over to route out the jamb works a treat. Even have marks on it for lift off hinges can not go wrong. Was thinking of marketing it, maybe to compliment the Mikita trimmer. Cheers Gordon
Putting new doors into old frames is always a bit tricky since I’ve got my track saw it easier but some times the frames are that bad I have to use my electric planer, still that is easier than my hand plane that I used to use! If you’ve got the right tools for the job than you make it a lot easier for yourself ! Great work Scott 👍🏻
Love your videos. I like to remove all old doors and hardware, clamp them to the new doors trace all hinge positions, nob position. And cut everything at once. This worked great on my last project. (House was built in 1919 and customer wanted to keep all the old hardware and door casing)
My tip is if possible don't use the screws included with the hinges. Even on higher quality hinges the screws are almost always terrible and there's nothing more annoying than the screw snapping and having to try and fish it out. Get a decent box of nickel screws, they go in much faster and you don't have to worry about them breaking. Good vid by the way!
I totally agree. Replaced all the hinges (15 in total) for fire rated ones and the screws cammed out with ease even with piloting. Changed for torx head decent brand ones. What's everyone's screw size if substituting the included screws? Is it 4.5mm 35mm screws or inch and a half in old money?
@@jamatoke Nice one - use 35mm in solid core fire doors in my place but would drop down to 30mm in hollow and light doors like the one Scott's referring to.
Hey Scott, Keep up these great videos, im an apprentice on my 4th year, most the time i don't understand theory of things by reading it, as soon as i watch you're videos about a subject it all clears up and makes sense so for next time i can picture you're videos in my head and see what you did in that situation. I only started watching about a week ago and i love it gives me so much more passion and motivation to get out there to site to give it my best and learn!
Here’s a fun way for a door frame Try plumbing the hinge side then run two string lines diagonally from the top corner down to the bottom corner. Divide the length of each string in half and make a mark on the string with a marker. Adjust the latch side until both marks on you strings meet each other and fasten off the hinge side.thanks for the videos btw it’s fun to watch after a day of Remodling here in America.
Lee valley tools has several hinge jigs, I have the adjustable three hinge rail- super fast and accurate, perfect double french door installs. I'm procrastinating on hanging a 36 inch craftsman in my shop right now by watching SBC- it 's cold out.
I like to use a centre drill for my hinges,I have a small trend snappy kit which works really well.sometimes on those light soft panel doors I just hinge the top the swing the bottom in a mark and rout that out to get an exact snug fit.
Did a lot of doors post quake in CHCH, see if you can find an old Butt Gauge, perfect for hanging doors in rebates, I have an old Aussie made one. Also I was taught to drill "high and in" of centre of hinge screw hole to bring the screw in tight to the hinge rebate, no chance of hinge being sloppy that way. You are right, swinging a door is peak carpentry.
Always use quality finished handles - Think about it, a door hand is one of the most used parts in the home along with light switches and people cheap out. The finish and quality of a handle and internal lock can make or break it imo. Really enjoying your editing in the last 3 months of the vids it's really coming on! Watching from London :)
@@MsElijah16 Yep agree with what your saying too. Go and use handles that have lots of play in them with latches sticking and not a clean close to a door, it will drive you nuts!
Really useful thank you. Love the Bentley reference. Like the inflatable pillow for raising the door - I just have a couple of wedges. More fun/efficient… I like the hinge jig, it’s worth making yourself a handle alignment jig.
Great video, thank you… foot pump just solved the problem I have hanging new doors on old hinges.. also, makes a tutorial much more pleasing to watch when the teacher is off the scale cute as hell.. anyway, back to my doors..
In college does the practice of hanging a door we use a hinge for the gap all away round the door so you put the hinge at top for that bit and double it on one side so there is no need to measure on the other side.
Here in the UK, most door frames are twisted, not plum or angled at the head, the way I do it is mostly by eye and then to plane it in with a planer to match the door frame 👍i use the rail saw for the heads and the router for the hinges too 😁
I love you scotty boy you’re an absolute howler! “Ya may have ye Bentley pal but can ya hang a door?!?” In the Scottish accent too LOL I love hanging doors too. I don’t use a jig though I use the Stanley marking gauge for the width and a blade to mark the shoulders and set the fence in my Makita 18v router and do it by eye. It’s certainly more fun plus you can see the wood break away at the scribed lines as you’re routing which is as pleasing as the sound of the corners being paired with that lovely sharp chisel.
I had 11 doors to replace in a town house. The doors were swollen at the base from years of cats pissing on them! I just laid the new door on the old door and transcribed the hinge and latch positions. Trimmed the sides as needed. On a couple of doors that were too short I trimmed the door, removed the pine frame out of the offcut and reglued it back into the door hollow. I also make sure all tops and bottoms are primed to mitigate moisture ingress. I like to fit a door, then remove it for painting and reinstall.
I use a center punch. And a chuck drill for the hinges and only set the torque so the screw just set flush to not over tighten them. But I gotta get my hands on one of them air bags
I cut the doors tight to the frame opening and then scribe them to the frame. 9 times out of 10 old frames are bowed anyways. Then I hit them with the planer. Sanding block the edges to give a round over. After undercutting, I keep a can of clear coat and respray the bottom to seal the door. Again sanding block to round over edges to minimize chipping from shoes/socks etc. As has already been mentioned, corner chisel for mortising hinges. With a 1-3/8” MDF door you should have 2” or 50mm on the bottom, of solid material. If you’re ever working with solid doors, definitely get/build a door dollie. Awesome job explaining everything though. You’re definitely a patient guy.
Vix bits and a spring loaded corner chisel on your hinges. I noticed on another video you put two screws side by side, I put mine under the door stop trim, cleaner finished product. I also use insulation spray foam between the jamb and framing.
As an Carpenter in Germany 🇩🇪. Hanging normal doors ( I call it the Standard ones) is so much easier you have 2 Metal bolts with holes coming out oft the Frame an 1 coming out oft the door with a longer hole. So the only thing you have to do is lining up the holes put a Bolt in in an you done. And if da Gaps not right und can screw the bolts from the frame deeper in or not to set up the right gap. 👍
Awesome videos Scott great work!! I mark out the same , cut the hinge lines with a stanley knife then rout out to the required depth freehand & if accurate enough the cut lines will "fall" trim out with the router pass leaving very little to "chisel" out for the hinges that is lol
If you hang doors for a living this is definitely not the quickest way hehe The most fun though We use planer to trim the edges and mark hinges with knife and than trimmer with no jigs/clamps... There were 5 hollows... so light you could carry 3 at the same time... I have to hang at least 8 fire doors per day here in sydney to make my wage. Hehe love your work cheers
Hi, I made a hinge jig out of plywood that I center over the hinge markings and It cuts perfect hinges every time. I built stops so it sits perfectly against the door and hold it in place without The need to clamp it or screw it Doing it with a small router by hand and cutting out with the chisel is too slow I’ve had these jigs for 30 years And they are still working perfectly
Ditch the hinge jig and use a speed square and fence on you router, no chance then of cutting out a check for a different size hinge. Also a make a door holder to keep the door steady while you're working on it.
Use a batten to mark all your hinges from the frame on, i use different colour pens for each door on the same batten. And only mark the top of each hinge. Then just adjust for your space along the top of door. Sometimes if I’m doing a whole house of doors, I also screw a 2-3mm plastic packer onto the batten so it can butt up to the frame when marking but also swivel and hang onto the door when marking the door.
when marking out the handles for the doors. put down some masking tasking tape on the door, drill and chisel your holes out then remove the masking tape and fit the handle. saves having to clean off all your pencil marks. i was gobsmacked when i first saw someone doing that and wondered what i could have been doing with my life if i hadn't spent all my time cleaning off pencil markings
I've hung a few doors and a real good pro tip is use your Phillips head bit in your drill to pre drill the hinge screw holes in your door, it will locate the center of the hinge hole every time and then use a drill bit to pre drill. also use the hinges to mark around the door if you haven't got a 3 mm packer just don't forget about them many many times I've had the hinge fall on my head.
Tbh they are in New Zealand everything's upside down right? Even the water down the plug hole. I swing a door pretty much the same way the only edge I think you could have would be a Trend Hinge pilot bit, you can't beat that coutersinked screw sitting perfect.
Hi Scott, love your channel and your work! You may already have them but a handy tool I like to use for hinges are "self centering drill bits". Also love the idea of using a little pump under the door 👌
I use a spare hinge between the top of the door and frame then pump the door up till it pinches for the head gap making sure the top of door and frame are square
Another job well done Scott cant think of anything that would help you on this one other than always get new identical hinges with the new doors. Look up Trend hole centring pilot bits, also a Trend door hinge jig with 8mm Bush for us people that don't get things made for us Haha, they do a corner punch chisel too for after you router.
Love yer vids though. Im a joiner as we call carpenters in scotland. Like watching as you can always learn a better way to do things. Lived in oz for 20 year. The joke we had back home was whats the difference between a carpenter & a joiner. A joiner joins wood & a carpenter paints cars!😉😂.
we don't even have this type of doors in europe. Our hinges are made so you can dismount a door without removing screws. The hinge on the frame is a upward facing pin and the hinge on the door is a downside facing hole. So we just quite literally hang the doors by fitting the two hinges together, and the you can remove the door just by lifting it if its in your way when working. The hinges are already installed by the manufacturer.
great video. the best trick i was taught when hanging doors into new frames was to only fit the hinge side of the frame before you hang the door, then fix the lock side to suit the door. another was to invest in hinge centering drill bits, which take all the guesswork out of predrilling for your hinges but also useful when fitting ironmongery into old frames to help you get a clean fixing a question for you scott, what blade are you using for your tracksaw? when i cut doors i usually have to do a few passes even with a newish blade to stop the saw struggling a little love the videos!
I tend to just use the router freehand and finish off with a chisel. One thing I never do though is work on multiple doors at once, mainly cause you dont always know if you'll get a job done in one day as an oops might pop up and dont want to leave a customer with open plan house over night if can help it.
Not a tip on hanging but when I cut a door to shape I keep some of the trimmings because they make immense large shims or packers when you need a good bit of slim timber (and you cant get the wood types easily in the uk).
In Sweden you get all doors to set opening sizes, in 10 cm increments including frame. And they come with frame, hinges and handle. You can order a 20*8 door or the standard 21*9 (210 times 90 centimeters) door and get it hanged right or left. Then you set it with screws that allow for adjusting the frame. All doors and windows have had this standard widths for a 100 years. If you replace an old door you usually replace the frame as well, and the new door (or window) will fit in the old opening.
As a boy I was told the toilet door is the most important door in the house as other joiners sit on the loo and check for an even gap around the door, you know you do!!
Hahahaha! So true
Is it just me, or are the bathrooms at hardware stores the worst? Lol.
@@loganrogers1517 Always! A Bunnings dunny says "Don't bother renovating! Your place will always be better than this!" :-)
Very True.
Just like Welders always looking at other Welds, lol.
yeah lol always do the toilet door last, that way you can wake up and get in the zone first haha
I've hung probably 100 doors and I had no idea the lock side had a tapered edge. Once again I have learned something new from you.
Happy to help
Love the channel mate. I’m mid way through changing career to Carpentry because I realised I would rather hang a door than drive a Bentley! Wish I’d worked that out 15 years ago.
Wish nothing but luck with all the door you hang in the future!!
If you could afford a Bentley u could just do carpentry in your spare time, also carpenters aren't poor so probably could still get that bently.
@@YoureWrongImRightGetOverIt Owning a Bentley is nowhere near as nice as wanting a Bentley.
I'm 25 and thinking of getting into it, don't know if it's silly cause I'll be 29 earliest when I'm qualified and will be on fuck all money for four years. Already have a degree but I just hated it in office work. Don't know what to be doing, feels like I'd be falling behind if I did it
@@asscrackistan 25 is young and if you pick things up quick and hustle pay soon follows. And if it dont move on to another company quickly with what tricks you have learned. I made the mistake of staying in low paying jobs too long.
My old man taught me to use the existing door as a template. Before you take the old door off, look at it in the lining and note the gaps marking on the door if it needs more or less. The carefully lay the old door onto the new one and mark it up. This gives you a good starting point and saves alot of time.
My favourite tip for hinging a door is when you pre drill your screw holes put them slightly off centre favouring the back of the checkout. Then when the head of the screw gets to the counter sink in the hinge it pulls the hinge tight into the checkout
Brendan Credlin what do you mean back of the checkout?
@@LX7music on the case of a hinge checkout it would be on the side opposite to the pin
I prefer to offset the screw holes.
This gives you some room for adjustment against the door stop.
And yes the hinge stay straight.
I know that because i do it all the time.
this is a good tip!
I’ve hung literally thousands of doors in my career and have accumulated many tricks over the years. I’ve always tried to keep an open mind, however, so really like the pump jack idea.
I’ll relate one story. One winter I was asked to adjust a door that was difficult to make latch. This was a steel-skinned, in-swinging entry door. I checked it; yes, you really had to push hard to make it latch. I open the door, file a little on the strike plate, close the door and it latches smoothly. I go get the homeowner to demonstrate. I operate the door and it’s again hard to latch. Hmmm. Sorry, I say, gimme a minute. I open the door, file on the strike plate a little, the door again works beautifully. I get the homeowner again to demonstrate and the door is again hard to latch. What the heck? Then the lightbulb moment! As I’m filing the strike, the door is hanging in the relative warmth of the interior space. It is essentially the same temperature on both sides and is therefore flat. When I close it, the outside skin starts cooling and shrinking, causing the outside of the door to become concave in the minute it took me to retrieve the homeowner. Mystery solved. Solution: Spring.
How did you solve it using a spring?
He fixed it in spring and never answered the phone again in winter 🙄😉
ill never get this time back.
@@OddBall167 You say that now, but wait until you have a metal door that's hard to close in winter.
@Kristopher Jayce nobody do this; it's most likely a keylogger or a phishing scam.
This account was made 3 days ago. Mordechai Devon is probably the same person, account was made 5 days ago.
A mark of superior customer service and attention to detail: takes off work boots each time he enters the client's house.
Lots of talk about using a centering jig To install the screws for the hinges.
I put the screw in just back of center this way it will be pulled tight to the cut out of the mortise. Once it touches the back side it will stop and the screw will sit perfectly
Great videos mate. I always make a stand for when checking out hinges on a loose leaf. Two pieces of 4x2 on their edge sitting on ground. Cut a slot in each, one side square and one angle so you can tap a wedge in. Stands the door up securely so you can work on it
yep me too, learnt it from an old boy in the uk where i did my apprenticeship, also i tend to cut my own jigs for hinges out of a piece of door liner, that way you can use any router bit.
yes love this trick, even one of them is enough - nice one
Yep, ben doing that for years. I only use one tho, & still works good even if it I am only doing one door.
the thing that helped me was 'Hinge drill Bits' or Self centring drill bits...good video by the way
little tip i use, the philips screw bit that you use to put the screws in is perfect for giving you a center, provided you use t17 cutting screws (the ones with the slot at the start of the thread) you dont need to pre drill the holes... way quicker
Just what i was thinking 👍
As a professional carpenter, you always pre-drill even with a self cutting tip screw when it comes to the new garage material these door manufacturers use. You run the risk of spiting the material if you don’t predrill
aka Vix bits.
I’m always amazed that you don’t need to clamp the track saw, and it doesn’t slide - even when you press quite hard. Magical.
Yeah, they have a soft foam/rubbery non slip strips of tape on the back of the track. They work quite well.
Hey Scott great vid, a tip I use is I place 2 £1 coins on top of a door and pump it up then mark hinges and keep gaps all equal, helps also to c what may need trimming off the top if it’s an old out of level liner/casing, keep up the good work
That’s a nice tip
love the vids. I pretty much hang new doors in old frames the same as you do. But new doors in new frames, i always use a story pole. Maybe I'm getting old but I just find it easier to get a piece of timber a bit shorter then the door, keep it flush with the top of the door and mark my hinges on it and then use it to mark all the doors. Then when I'm marking the frames, I put a €2 coin between the pole and the head of the frame. I also use the bucket boss for the locks and handles, saves your back big time as you're sitting on a tall bucket with your tools in the pockets just below your arse!
I like hanging doors in old houses as every one is different. Sometimes you get a jamb thats so out of plumb and out of wind you need to pull out all the tricks!
Love the vids
Use a Stanley knife to mark hinges. Always more accurate than a pencil ever could be!! Also pre dill the hinge holes slightly to one side of the hole so the screws pull the hindge into the checkout of the door!!
Hahaha, "You may have a Bentley but can you hang a door!" My Dad who was a carpenter, always said you can tell a good carpenter from how he hangs a door. :-)
My dad alwAys told me “you can tell if a man is a good carpenter if he owns a Bentley”.
I usually unscrew the bottom hinge first. I feel it gives me more control of the door panel :) Great videos!
Was about to say that, if you're working alone it can rest on the top hinge without having to worry about it falling over
@@sionn1 As long as the bottom hinge isn't a loose fucker and decides to fall out of it's home.
I haven’t hung a lot of doors in my life but I did learn a great trick from my dad to do it properly. I hire a carpenter :)
I know that some people don't like them but I find self-centering drill bits to be pretty handy for hinges.
you dont need them, modern screws are self cutting and you can use your philips bit to give a center depression, much quicker than swapping drills and no loss of quality.
Putting them upside down like that would drive me nuts! and I would totally screw at least one up out of habit Haha
Scott, I love your safety socks! Here in Germany people always walk in their work boots into houses and apartments due to safety regulations. But at least they are allowed to put socks over their boots.
Vicks bit for drilling out the hinge screws always makes life a little easier. Nice video. I like the air bag.
I like how fondly you talk of your uncle. At some point can you get him in a video for his top 10 old timer tricks & shortcuts. Same goes for your dad
I recently took on a job to help a friend hang a stable door at his house. It was very difficult because the frame was out and I used the existing cut outs on the frame for the hinges. I would really appreciate seeing how you hang a stable door. Cheers thanks for the great videos.
my tip is when dealing with old houses, if a frame is seriously out of level/twisted etc, sometimes it is easy/better to just replace the frame so you can have nice level frame with even gaps around the door
When I put new doors inside an old twisted or bowed frame. I cut it to fit right inside the frame and then scribe the door and use a power planer. Old frames are rarely plumb, never mind straight.
Your uncle Sandy's comments were gold.
For new jambs, I make a storey rod with the 3mm gap up top and the marks of where hinges go, then transfer onto jambs whilst on the bench for cutting and routing.
When it comes time for the doors, I cut the 3mm off the storey rod and mark the hinge locations on the doors.
I always mark the top and bottom of hinges using a Stanley knife, more accurate than a pencil mark. Then I trace the outline of the hinge deeply with a Stanley knife, that saves me from using a chisel. After I've routered the hinge location, I clean up using my stanley knife.
I do doors alot. I'd say about 80% of my jobs this year have been replacing doors. But here in the UK the frames are always terrible! Tip I'd give you is to mark the hinge out with a Stanley knife. And use a wheeled marking gauge for the width of the leaf. You'll end up with a much tighter fitting hinge. Also the latch face plates. Stanley knife all the way.
I am a DIYer and have hung a lot of doors for family friends, however i never new there was a specific lockside on a hollowcore door, i am always learning, so thanks scott brown,
Lovin your channel bro, tips! I use window packets to check my margins. They are all different colours and is a accurate way to measure the margins. I need that blow up bladder the lift the door! I’ll see if we get them in the uk.
Ooow, with new doors in old frames I usually make a load of large pointed match sticks and plug the old holes first. Gives the new screws a chance to grip or not pass to the old hole if they are close.
For sure! The 3,000 pack of windows packers is the best $100 I ever spent on tools
Love how u say it’s always “but can you hang a door” that happens so often haha
That’s one thing in our trade that there’s always one bloke that is the best and quickest at hanging doors.
that's cause tradies are the most qualified of all careers. (in bs)
Thanks for this Bro. I've got Door and door furniture at college next Tuesday. I'll be honest mate I was watching this channel before I even started my apprenticeship, you're so helpful. Watching your channel helps alot with being more confident at work. Keep it up Scott Episode 200 is only around the corner.
‘Ye might have a Bentley pal but can ye hing a door’ 😂 Typical Scottish banter, I’m from Glasgow! Love your channel Scott 👍🏼
Panel doors hung upside down really grinds my gears ! Doors that are hung on the wrong side ,meaning there is no 'lock block' to fit the lock into really grinds my gears too.
I recently had this same door change job. I use a power planner to cut the doors down to size. Also I primed the cut edges before hanging the doors on the hinge. I am only telling you because you asked 😆
Hi Scott, The doors you a hanging are similar to ones we have here in the UK, You hang them with the Bottom Rail at the top? is this normal in NZ?
I thought the same robin🤯 big fan of your work btw.
Cheers dude. Enjoyed that. I've got my first door to hang as a self employed guy next week. I can hang a door pal!
I always place my door into the jamb and scribe it to suit. This is for new or existing jambs.
You guys have it pretty good over there though with your doors already backed off haha.
Backing your door off is a good habit to get into. A coupe of passes with the planer and you won’t have any grief with the door.
Your videos are a great source of learning how they do it other places, im from denmark myself, so its exciting to see
Lige præcis! :P
I'm in New England (USA) and do a lot of repairs/remodels on 200-300 year old houses.... I see door frames all the time that are 4 inches out of square. After seeing you trimming those slabs with that tracksaw, I immediately went looking for one on Amazon.
I have 19 walnut doors to fit into old openings next month. Im so glad plunge saws and routers exist.
I remember being an apprentice and thinking that hanging a door was the height of skill and I couldn’t wait to learn!
Ben Chippy sometimes it’s one of the simplest tasks to do when your older
And one the most lucrative if you get a house with well fitted linings!
Love the channel . One tip I would mention is that you should seal /undercoat the bottom of the door before it's hung , especially in wet areas . Otherwise The bottom of the door will swell and crack over time .
I freehand the hinge cutouts with a small router I had years , it's fun when you turn up at a house and frames way out , I actually know joiners that wont hang doors
Joiners that won't hang doors?🤣 they're in the wrong profession! Lol
That air bag is a great tool. I use it for appliances that need a little boost to adjust the leveling feet. (especially old style dishwashers)
One trick I could add. Close the door onto a screw driver or chisel (at the hinge) to bend the hinge out a little. Packing the back of a hinge out a little with cardboard can work too (trim it after it is in). I've hung a lot of doors.
I made a jig for hanging doors using a router, One side to route out the door than roll it over to route out the jamb works a treat. Even have marks on it for lift off hinges can not go wrong. Was thinking of marketing it, maybe to compliment the Mikita trimmer. Cheers Gordon
Putting new doors into old frames is always a bit tricky since I’ve got my track saw it easier but some times the frames are that bad I have to use my electric planer, still that is easier than my hand plane that I used to use! If you’ve got the right tools for the job than you make it a lot easier for yourself ! Great work Scott 👍🏻
Love your videos. I like to remove all old doors and hardware, clamp them to the new doors trace all hinge positions, nob position. And cut everything at once. This worked great on my last project. (House was built in 1919 and customer wanted to keep all the old hardware and door casing)
My tip is if possible don't use the screws included with the hinges. Even on higher quality hinges the screws are almost always terrible and there's nothing more annoying than the screw snapping and having to try and fish it out. Get a decent box of nickel screws, they go in much faster and you don't have to worry about them breaking. Good vid by the way!
This could be expanded to any hardware.
I always throw away the included chocolate screws and use a quality spax or similar.
I totally agree. Replaced all the hinges (15 in total) for fire rated ones and the screws cammed out with ease even with piloting.
Changed for torx head decent brand ones.
What's everyone's screw size if substituting the included screws? Is it 4.5mm 35mm screws or inch and a half in old money?
Yeah 4.5 x 30mm is what I usually use
@@jamatoke Nice one - use 35mm in solid core fire doors in my place but would drop down to 30mm in hollow and light doors like the one Scott's referring to.
Hey Scott, Keep up these great videos, im an apprentice on my 4th year, most the time i don't understand theory of things by reading it, as soon as i watch you're videos about a subject it all clears up and makes sense so for next time i can picture you're videos in my head and see what you did in that situation. I only started watching about a week ago and i love it gives me so much more passion and motivation to get out there to site to give it my best and learn!
Here’s a fun way for a door frame Try plumbing the hinge side then run two string lines diagonally from the top corner down to the bottom corner. Divide the length of each string in half and make a mark on the string with a marker. Adjust the latch side until both marks on you strings meet each other and fasten off the hinge side.thanks for the videos btw it’s fun to watch after a day of Remodling here in America.
Here in the US the builders best friend is called Bondo. I love that stuff. Dries in 20 minutes or so. Easy to sand and no one ever knows you goofed.
your comment really is just so soothing its just a great way to end the day thank you man.
Whole process I do pretty much the same... Except for the cool pump gismo to lift the door, use chisels for that. Great vids.
Lee valley tools has several hinge jigs, I have the adjustable three hinge rail- super fast and accurate, perfect double french door installs. I'm procrastinating on hanging a 36 inch craftsman in my shop right now by watching SBC- it 's cold out.
I like to use a centre drill for my hinges,I have a small trend snappy kit which works really well.sometimes on those light soft panel doors I just hinge the top the swing the bottom in a mark and rout that out to get an exact snug fit.
Legend mate. Awesome tips and guidance. Using na old blood pressure cuff level the door. Totally awesome brother 🤝👍🏻
Tip: A door block to hold the door on edge when you're routing the hinge mortises. You can get spring loaded ones which you operate with your foot.
Losie I cut a 4x2 with a check out slightly bigger than the door then use a fox wedge to hold the door
Did a lot of doors post quake in CHCH, see if you can find an old Butt Gauge, perfect for hanging doors in rebates, I have an old Aussie made one. Also I was taught to drill "high and in" of centre of hinge screw hole to bring the screw in tight to the hinge rebate, no chance of hinge being sloppy that way. You are right, swinging a door is peak carpentry.
Always use quality finished handles -
Think about it, a door hand is one of the most used parts in the home along with light switches and people cheap out.
The finish and quality of a handle and internal lock can make or break it imo.
Really enjoying your editing in the last 3 months of the vids it's really coming on!
Watching from London :)
Ryan I'd second that, some cheap handles don't even work properly , the latch bolt sticks in from new
@@MsElijah16 Yep agree with what your saying too.
Go and use handles that have lots of play in them with latches sticking and not a clean close to a door, it will drive you nuts!
I put handles in where i can see my reflection then i forget about the handle. Ohhhh yeaa
Agreed . And decent quality hinges
Really useful thank you. Love the Bentley reference. Like the inflatable pillow for raising the door - I just have a couple of wedges. More fun/efficient… I like the hinge jig, it’s worth making yourself a handle alignment jig.
Good video
Hanging doors can be a nightmare, especially if they are heavy oak and you have to take them up and down stairs to get the cut just right
Great video Scotty... yip the self centred drill bits cannot be beaten
Great video, thank you… foot pump just solved the problem I have hanging new doors on old hinges.. also, makes a tutorial much more pleasing to watch when the teacher is off the scale cute as hell.. anyway, back to my doors..
In college does the practice of hanging a door we use a hinge for the gap all away round the door so you put the hinge at top for that bit and double it on one side so there is no need to measure on the other side.
Good tip
I’m 16 and know how to hang a door, I love the building industry and will till the end
Ive been a joiner for 16 years & always hated hanging doors!!! Up & down stairs with solid oak doors, a little off here a little off there 😂🤯
Here in the UK, most door frames are twisted, not plum or angled at the head, the way I do it is mostly by eye and then to plane it in with a planer to match the door frame 👍i use the rail saw for the heads and the router for the hinges too 😁
I love you scotty boy you’re an absolute howler! “Ya may have ye Bentley pal but can ya hang a door?!?” In the Scottish accent too LOL
I love hanging doors too. I don’t use a jig though I use the Stanley marking gauge for the width and a blade to mark the shoulders and set the fence in my Makita 18v router and do it by eye. It’s certainly more fun plus you can see the wood break away at the scribed lines as you’re routing which is as pleasing as the sound of the corners being paired with that lovely sharp chisel.
Oh and them doors may be upside down to you, but they look the right way up from up here
Been a carpenter for almost 30 years, best way to mark hinges is to use a hinge rod saves the lifting especially if your doing fire doors
I did my routing free hand as id mark everything we my stanley knife. Used the fence on the router/trimmer for distance in & done ends free hand.
I had 11 doors to replace in a town house. The doors were swollen at the base from years of cats pissing on them! I just laid the new door on the old door and transcribed the hinge and latch positions. Trimmed the sides as needed. On a couple of doors that were too short I trimmed the door, removed the pine frame out of the offcut and reglued it back into the door hollow. I also make sure all tops and bottoms are primed to mitigate moisture ingress. I like to fit a door, then remove it for painting and reinstall.
I use a center punch. And a chuck drill for the hinges and only set the torque so the screw just set flush to not over tighten them. But I gotta get my hands on one of them air bags
I cut the doors tight to the frame opening and then scribe them to the frame. 9 times out of 10 old frames are bowed anyways.
Then I hit them with the planer. Sanding block the edges to give a round over.
After undercutting, I keep a can of clear coat and respray the bottom to seal the door. Again sanding block to round over edges to minimize chipping from shoes/socks etc.
As has already been mentioned, corner chisel for mortising hinges.
With a 1-3/8” MDF door you should have 2” or 50mm on the bottom, of solid material.
If you’re ever working with solid doors, definitely get/build a door dollie.
Awesome job explaining everything though. You’re definitely a patient guy.
Vix bits and a spring loaded corner chisel on your hinges. I noticed on another video you put two screws side by side, I put mine under the door stop trim, cleaner finished product. I also use insulation spray foam between the jamb and framing.
As an Carpenter in Germany 🇩🇪.
Hanging normal doors ( I call it the Standard ones) is so much easier you have 2 Metal bolts with holes coming out oft the Frame an 1 coming out oft the door with a longer hole. So the only thing you have to do is lining up the holes put a Bolt in in an you done. And if da Gaps not right und can screw the bolts from the frame deeper in or not to set up the right gap. 👍
Awesome videos Scott great work!! I mark out the same , cut the hinge lines with a stanley knife then rout out to the required depth freehand & if accurate enough the cut lines will "fall" trim out with the router pass leaving very little to "chisel" out for the hinges that is lol
Exactly the same way as I do mine.
I was thinking I'd have that hinge routed out by the time he set the jig up.
but can you hang a door, made me chuckle ;)
Great vid as always.
Even if I'm a Sparky of trade. I can say Yes I Can!!!
I use my spring nail set to double as a center punch and pilot drill bit for the hinge screws. It does help well and is always in my bags anyways
If you hang doors for a living this is definitely not the quickest way hehe
The most fun though
We use planer to trim the edges and mark hinges with knife and than trimmer with no jigs/clamps...
There were 5 hollows... so light you could carry 3 at the same time... I have to hang at least 8 fire doors per day here in sydney to make my wage. Hehe love your work cheers
Hi, I made a hinge jig out of plywood that I center over the hinge markings and It cuts perfect hinges every time.
I built stops so it sits perfectly against the door and hold it in place without The need to clamp it or screw it
Doing it with a small router by hand and cutting out with the chisel is too slow
I’ve had these jigs for 30 years And they are still working perfectly
Ditch the hinge jig and use a speed square and fence on you router, no chance then of cutting out a check for a different size hinge. Also a make a door holder to keep the door steady while you're working on it.
Use a batten to mark all your hinges from the frame on, i use different colour pens for each door on the same batten. And only mark the top of each hinge. Then just adjust for your space along the top of door. Sometimes if I’m doing a whole house of doors, I also screw a 2-3mm plastic packer onto the batten so it can butt up to the frame when marking but also swivel and hang onto the door when marking the door.
Yes young man. I can. Enjoy your videos
Your uncle Sandy sounds, like a really Cool guy !!!!!!!!!! id imagine you learnt a lot about carpentry and life from him
Yeah for sure 👍
when marking out the handles for the doors. put down some masking tasking tape on the door, drill and chisel your holes out then remove the masking tape and fit the handle. saves having to clean off all your pencil marks. i was gobsmacked when i first saw someone doing that and wondered what i could have been doing with my life if i hadn't spent all my time cleaning off pencil markings
Your Uncle Sandy sounds like a real bloke. Good on him 🙂👍
I've hung a few doors and a real good pro tip is use your Phillips head bit in your drill to pre drill the hinge screw holes in your door, it will locate the center of the hinge hole every time and then use a drill bit to pre drill. also use the hinges to mark around the door if you haven't got a 3 mm packer just don't forget about them many many times I've had the hinge fall on my head.
Tbh they are in New Zealand everything's upside down right? Even the water down the plug hole.
I swing a door pretty much the same way the only edge I think you could have would be a Trend Hinge pilot bit, you can't beat that coutersinked screw sitting perfect.
Nah man we put the plug in the tap otherwise it will overflow and you will need to replace a ceiling
@@cinderblock4438 You put the plug in the tap..🤔
Hi Scott, love your channel and your work! You may already have them but a handy tool I like to use for hinges are "self centering drill bits". Also love the idea of using a little pump under the door 👌
World class carpenter mate . Better know to hang a door than drive a Bently;)
That edit at the end with the traffic light and audio was just 😮💨
I use a spare hinge between the top of the door and frame then pump the door up till it pinches for the head gap making sure the top of door and frame are square
Another job well done Scott cant think of anything that would help you on this one other than always get new identical hinges with the new doors. Look up Trend hole centring pilot bits, also a Trend door hinge jig with 8mm Bush for us people that don't get things made for us Haha, they do a corner punch chisel too for after you router.
Yep, that's the same way I do it. Love that air wedge!
Love yer vids though. Im a joiner as we call carpenters in scotland. Like watching as you can always learn a better way to do things. Lived in oz for 20 year. The joke we had back home was whats the difference between a carpenter & a joiner. A joiner joins wood & a carpenter paints cars!😉😂.
we don't even have this type of doors in europe. Our hinges are made so you can dismount a door without removing screws. The hinge on the frame is a upward facing pin and the hinge on the door is a downside facing hole. So we just quite literally hang the doors by fitting the two hinges together, and the you can remove the door just by lifting it if its in your way when working. The hinges are already installed by the manufacturer.
great video. the best trick i was taught when hanging doors into new frames was to only fit the hinge side of the frame before you hang the door, then fix the lock side to suit the door. another was to invest in hinge centering drill bits, which take all the guesswork out of predrilling for your hinges but also useful when fitting ironmongery into old frames to help you get a clean fixing
a question for you scott, what blade are you using for your tracksaw? when i cut doors i usually have to do a few passes even with a newish blade to stop the saw struggling a little
love the videos!
He be using the Makita Efficut blade
I tend to just use the router freehand and finish off with a chisel. One thing I never do though is work on multiple doors at once, mainly cause you dont always know if you'll get a job done in one day as an oops might pop up and dont want to leave a customer with open plan house over night if can help it.
100% agree.
Not a tip on hanging but when I cut a door to shape I keep some of the trimmings because they make immense large shims or packers when you need a good bit of slim timber (and you cant get the wood types easily in the uk).
In Sweden you get all doors to set opening sizes, in 10 cm increments including frame. And they come with frame, hinges and handle. You can order a 20*8 door or the standard 21*9 (210 times 90 centimeters) door and get it hanged right or left. Then you set it with screws that allow for adjusting the frame. All doors and windows have had this standard widths for a 100 years. If you replace an old door you usually replace the frame as well, and the new door (or window) will fit in the old opening.