Almost every woodworking group online (Facebook groups, reddit, etc.) end up full of posts about about this brand or that brand being better or worse. I like that your videos almost never touch on that. Instead it's here's a 20 year old tool and why its useful
Not gonna lie, I see a drill press as that one tool you should have in a shop that's there for when you need it and you'll be glad you have it. It's not gonna do as much as your table saw, but when you need to punch out 36 peg holes for a book self to a depth of no less than .25 inches I'll take a drill press any day compared to doing that shit by hand.
My second woodworking project ever I got a little abitious. Almost too ambitious. I made a 56 bottle wine rack with dowel joinery, that's 128 slats with two holes each plus holes in vertical stiles, and in the side panels. Looooooots of holes, a drill press was a godsend for all those holes.
I'll add that the drill press is one of the few stationary tools in a woodshop that can be used for other materials (like plastics and metals) safely without any modifications to the machine. That alone makes it a very useful tool.
I was always taught that you still needed to change the speed (and bit) when going from wood to metal? Is this something that has to be done? should be done? or just a matter of learning from someone in a machine shop? I have no experience with plastic but i would presume it would be similar to wood?
@@trekie30122 Depends is the best answer. Plastics, aluminium (most common "soft" alloys), brass, copper, zinc would work at most speeds. I never change the speed on mine, because I set it to the 2nd lowest ~1100 RPM because I only have a 2.4 Ampere induction motor on it : it lacks torque at higher speeds and it going to work on almost any material I throw at it. For steel, it depends on thickness and hardness. Also depends on how much you care about your drill bits and what quality of drill bits you have.
It's useless less ya in a work shop and want loads of straight holes but battery powered drills can take same tools and portable ..... Good for drilling thick metals .....upgrade to CNC milling machine for production so it's a bit obsolete really
@@jackgetzler3451 in that sense it's useful but still limited to clamping work to its table for metal work it's not much of a problem and can use magnets or electro magnet to hold the work for you but mine just a cheap work top one and just sits in shed with a wire wheel on it to clean up metal but I have broke a few small drills in it lol
Hey steve, i have to say that if my teachers were half as good as you i would have actually paid attention at school😂 I've watched a lot of your video's and learned so much. Thank you, and keep doing what you do👊🏻
I'm not here to brag or flex, but that Powermatic 2820EVS has been a game changer for me. Yeah I know, waaaaay to expensive. But worth it. And I only use it 3 - 4 times a month.
The drill press 'size' is double the reach to indicate the center of a circle that it can drill to. Why they don't use the same terminology as with bandsaw who knows. I think you're right and it's just a manufacturers advertising gimmick to make the tool seem larger than it is. Good drill presses can be found on many of local sale sites. I have found three very good benchtop and floor model drill presses on CL over the years. They bring premium prices right now because it takes so long to get anything new. But a 12" benchtop drill press in very good condition should be less than $200 and that amount will usually get you something of better quality than new. Most important if you buy used is make sure you get the chuck key with it because it can be difficult to find the correct size key. Without a chuck key knock $50 off the price before you evaluate anything else about it.
The depth stop (in combo with a Forstner bit) can be very useful for hogging out mortise and tenon slots as well. You can use the precision of the drill press to scoop away ~90% of the material you need and then clean up the holes with chisels, files, sandpaper, etc. By far the best advantage though, is the repeatability of a drill press. A lot of woodworking doesn't require perfectly machined parts, but usually you DO need multiple parts the exact same size and with the same hole patterns for joinery or fasteners.
If you’re buying a drill press, try to get one like Steve’s that has a “rack and pinion” crank for raising/lowering the table. Many (like mine) don’t and it’s impossible to lower the table and maintain alignment with the fence. Note that the 1/16” drill used for pilot holes is much shorter than a 1/4 or 1/2” drill bit, thus requiring the table to be lowered.
That’s what I hate most about my Shopsmith - there’s no controlled, precise way to move the carriage toward the headstock (or the headstock away from the carriage). One of the reasons I bought a dedicated drill press.
Definitely the most boring video I've watched today. 😁 I've had a Craftsman 9" benchtop drill press for a long time. It's incredibly useful for all the reasons you mentioned. My only complaint is that the 1/3 HP motor is underpowered and tends to bog down a lot. Of course I may not have the sharpest forstner bits either. I've been on the hunt for a larger one just to get more power. Thanks for sharing!
I remember when buying my first drill press I was totally unexcited by the prospect of acquiring this basic cornerstone of any wood-shop. I was almost by depressed as I brought it home and set it up. These emotions quickly disappeared over the next week as I discovered the myriad of advantages it offered me in my work. I have since added a second one dedicated to metalwork and if I had the space I would add half a dozen more all dedicated to specific repetitive activities such as mortising or cutting bungs, etc. The drill press is the most versatile boring machine you will ever acquire.
The only thing I would add is including dust collection with the fence. Best thing I ever did. You can get one from Rockler or make your own. Well worth the money or effort!
Was just about ready to buy an 8 inch drill press but got a little hung up on your size recommendation. I was wondering: is that recommendation in part due to leaving space for your fence? And if so, do you think a split fence (perhaps held together with a piece of steel or maybe something underneath the drill press table) would be a good way to get back some of the swing? I also have one of those portable drill guides. My take on that is that, primarily for wider boards, it can help serve some of the same purposes as a drill press.
@Not Bugarev Thanks for the feedback on your experience. I rewatched Steve's drill press table videos and noticed he actually has quite a big gap between the column and the table to allow for turning the lever to adjust the drill press table, and the fence itself is quite beefy. I'm planning to cut notches in the table to allow room for the column and lever. Steve's older drill press table used T tracks in the table itself to hold the fence. I was thinking that could allow shifting the fence to one side, which would not only serve to allow the fence to line up with the column but also allow for extending the fence to one side.
1:32 all i see is some guy wearing gloves with long, loose sleeves very close to a machine that spins at hundreds if not thousands of rpm. yeah no thanks dawg
I don't know why Steve but you're wrong!! No one needs a table THAT big on a drill press!!! (I'm trying to see why someone would argue about someone elses tool preference. I still don't get it.)
I drilled a little wooden block that i stuck on the head with velcro, works great. I also store all my different tool specific wrenches on the stand/near by with magnets.
It's doubled because you can drill a hole anywhere on a board with the listed width. So if you have 6" of clearance, you can drill a hole anywhere on a 12" wide board (because you can spin the board around).
This is super helpful to me... I'm only just starting out with woodworking but I have a drill press that I inherited from my dad. Seeing your table with fence means I can actually contemplate how I can use it. Thank you!
Spindle speed = (cutting speed of material) x (cutting factor of tool) x 4 / (diameter of cutter) But, as you said, it doesn’t matter THAT much. Erring on the slow side will help your bits last longer, but wood is pretty forgiving.
Can u plz make a vid on making dovetails with a tablesaw aswell as no dado stack because I don't have one but I wanna do it on a table saw answell as box joints
Steve you're amazing. It's 4pm here in Australia and you've already had over 40,000 views. I've been watching for the past couple of years and learned so much. I hope you had a great Christmas Day and all the best for a safe and happy 2022.
Thank you for this video. This is the type of videos that I like to see you do. I have a drill press similar to the one in your video but I never knew about being able to sand with it, very interesting thank you
For your first drillpress look for the Bosh PBD40. It has electronic variable speed (no more belts to shift!), digital depth meter readout, laser, more power than needed and is cheap. Then when you're more experienced you still keep it because it's awesome.
The Bosch is really nice. Laser isn’t accurate though. Apparently can be adjusted, but requires opening the case. The digital depth and electronic speed control are great though.
Drill presses are incredibly useful. I find myself using it even for stuff I don't"need" it for and could use a hand drill. In my opinion one of the best advantages is the mechanical advantage the handle gives for downward pressure. Well worth the investment.
A laser alignment guide is very handy when you are making holes in varying places and the drill bit (or hole saw more likely) stops you from seeing where the point of the drill is at, without fiddling about with changing bits for a small one, hoping the job doesn't move out of place if you bump it putting the big bit back in....... One day I'll figure out how to get my add on one to work properly, I assume the ones that come built in to the drill press are easier to set up. One way to tell if a drill press is intended for woodworkers is the depth it can drill to without moving the table - woodworker's drill presses have a capacity of around 6 inches (150mm) while metal working presses may only have a capacity of 3 to 4 inches (I've seen 65mm,
My drill press is close to 20 years old. It’s a Craftsman, no “fancy” adjustments like yours. Loosen collar to raise and lower, be sure to receneter the through hole… regardless for woodworking it is there when i need that “very” precise hole. For instance when making Pinewood derby cars with Cub Scouts, predrilling the axle holes to 5/32s is key for easy wheel alignment. I also use it as a press at times by closing down the shank to push tight fitting dowel pins into place… when I use it I am so happy I have it. Thanks for another informative video. Oh yeah never adjusted the speed belts… probably because it really hasnt been a problem
Timely video. I used mine this morning making some wooden bushings. The need for a table and fence became evident as I lined up my 1st centered hole. Haven't used my forster bits in a while. I was glad the 1" one was still sharp.
Maximum cutting speeds are published based on the material you're using to cut (ie HSS, tungsten carbide, etc) and the material you're cutting. Optimal cutting speed is as fast as you can go without damaging the cutter, and manufacturing engineering is all about cutting as fast as possible without damaging the cutter. Cutting speed is about how fast the two materials are moving against each other, so if you're using a drill bit it's about how fast the tip is moving. But for one off pieces, it's all a bit academic so long as you're not going too fast.
I just want to take the time to say thank you for all the time it takes you to make these videos not only the hours editing and conceptualizing them. It must be a challenge to put yourself in the shoes of what you think your viewers would like to see . You’re my hero brother I watch all your videos over and over again. A friend once told me “ you don’t have any idea the amount of people you make and impact on “. So keep on truck brother thanks so much for your videos and effort . In the end yours add up to the most valuable . We all appreciate and I’m sure you’ve changed Families and I mean families lives before with your work / art/ info/ Channel🏆
I don't use mine as a drum sander anymore, but I do put an inflatable ball sander on it and smooth out the inside of bowls. Flexible pad sanders are great for the inside and outside of bowls. Both suck in a handheld drill! I made my own table and love having a fence. It makes repeating drilling a distance from the edge easy and repeatable. Plus I can't drill straight so it helps fix that XD
Thanks Steve. I've had this same drill press I bought second hand maybe 10 years ago and I'll be using it more often now that you've shown me some of the additional features it does like sanding. Love your channel.
The fence is a safety item also. I was cutting sheet metal years ago and the bit grabbed the metal and spun it and cut may hand. I either clamp things or use a fence now.
I'd like to see you try out Garrett Wade's Portable Drill Guide Jig and see how it compares to a standard drill press for basic woodworking projects/tasks. I don't often need a drill press for my projects but sometimes I need to be accurate and consistent, especially with forstner bits. I think a good portable press fits my needs, budget, and most importantly, space/storage needs. Plus the portable nature can be useful for some deck projects and drilling accurate holes in beams on site.
I currently have 4in thoat on my drill press and yeah it sometimes is an issue but not to often. I also use my table as the depth stop as I broke the plastic on on my harbor farts press. For finer adjustment I just move the drill bit then re chuck it. The drill press is the only tool that always is set up in my shop. Just so convenient and good at it's task. I make beer bottle openers with magnets makes it easy to batch out a step.
Surface footage per Minute, is what determines optimal RMP, and most wood, can easily handle over 1000 Feet Per Minute SFM=.062×DIA×RPM tells you how fast the outside of the drill is moving, in linear terms. To determine the RPM, for a given/known SFM, the equation is: RPM=3.82×SFM÷ the drill diameter. Far more complicated, than is required, to drill wood. We use it more for steel work.
I got a drill press back when I used to build wooden model planes, but I've used it for many other projects and materials. It's a handy tool to have in the shop.
I would also say price is a factor. If one can be found for an absolute steal, or free from someone (ie. relative or close friend) someone would be crazy not to take it, even if they rarely use it.
I used to like my drill press, but I have been having power problems with it... Any light pressure I apply on it with a 4-1/4 hole saw on plywood brings it to a complete stall. Is it just underpowered, or something is faulty with it? Should a typical drill press be able to drive a hole saw through a 1/2 board without issues?
You will find that Harbor freight carries a very well built floor drill press For about 500 bucks!! It will do anything you could possibly want. But, be willing to bolt it to the floor. Floor models have a tendency to be top heavy...
I usually agree with you about tools, but have to say that you dismiss laser guides too casually. Having laser crosshairs on my drill press has turned out to be a very nice feature, especially for drilling multiple holes. Essential? No. But minimal cost and often helpful to quickly put "the spot" in the right place for the drill.
One thing about those sanding ideas. Sure I suppose sanding works with slight pressure, but people need to be aware that, morse taper, the part that hold drill chucks in place aren't made to withstand side loading forces in drill presses. Meaning forget trying to mill with drill presses. You'll likely just get morse taper loose and chuck will drop to floor and it's possible to damage them that way. There are tempting looking cross feed tables, but they're only for indexing where you drill. Not for milling. Also drill bearings aren't usually designed to withstand constant side forces, so there's also that. Now there's likely someone already typing that there's morse taper on mills too, but it isn't same thing. There's also drawbar in them. Taper can indeed be something like MK2, but that's where the similarities end.
Hey, I clicked on your free guide and it brought me to your website, but when I click on "send me the tool list" it brings me to a page saying "Error 404 page not found" not a big issue for me as the page does show a link at the top saying "Hardware Store" with a dropdown menu with an option saying "essential tool list" and that link brings you to the right location i think. Just wanted you to know. Thanks for all the amazing videos and passing on your knowledge ! I appreciate you!
I made your fence system a long time ago and it was easy to make and is perfect for my uses. I have the Wen bench top drill press and it has been indispensable.
Hey Stev, 🙄 I mean Steve, I’ve never seen you use a table saw out feed table, can you design a “use when you need it” table, maybe it folds up and hangs on the wall ? Great Channel 😃😃😃😃😃
I would love to have a drill press! Your clickbait game is on point with this video title. :D I certainly don't *need* the press, but I became real fond of them when my dad salvaged one when I was much younger.
Good grief! I didn't know my drill press (Craftsman 12") had a depth stop until seeing this one. I ran out to the shop and sure enough, it's just missing the tightening knob so I never paid attention to the collar.
Hey Steve most of the time I agree with you but this time ... no. Once you have a drill press you will never do without. Agree, you can drill a fairly straight hole with a hand drill but if we are measuring our cuts in 32'nds then I want a perpendicular hole to within 0.5 degrees. When you drill holes longer than 4"s or so it needs a drill press.
This tool is awesome! I don't know why it isn't a woodworking staple for more people and I learned something new. Using the press as a sander is brilliant!!! There are about a million unusual things I can sand now. A little advice, spend the money and get a press that can go down to at least 500 rpm. I tried to save money and got the 750 rpm and now I already need to buy a new press.
A drill press only drills straight holes if: 1) the table is level side to side - you need to check this; and 2) the clamp that keeps the table height from moving is fairly tight (front to back squareness).
Drill presses should just drill. The only ruined used drill press I ever bought had a drum sander on it. Changed chucks but the shaft was bad too. Don’t think any radial loads are healthy for them, so no milling either.
First thing to do with any drill press: super glue a small magnet somewhere to keep your chuck key. Also, it's not the best to put lateral loads on the chuck bearings, easy for the chuck to pop out.
If I learned anything from this video, it's how to change those damn belts on the top. Looks like you have to remove both! I had a hell of a time adjusting my Harbor Freight one.
I certainly wouldn't say no to one. But I'm in the He who dies with the most toys wins club. My dad was a founding member I'm sure because he had one, and a band saw and a lathe and if he couldn't afford one he'd make something close to what ever he needed to get the job done. I was his wood holder and tool getter growing up. Loved every minute of it. One of the perks of being the 2nd daughter is you got to play with all the cool stuff and not get your hair done and have to wear stockings and skirts.
Wished you talked about safety with this tool. Fixed spinning tool represent hazard and must be used carefully, one can rapidly feel too safe since it’s not hand held
Almost every woodworking group online (Facebook groups, reddit, etc.) end up full of posts about about this brand or that brand being better or worse. I like that your videos almost never touch on that. Instead it's here's a 20 year old tool and why its useful
You managed to stay genuine and down to hearth despite your tremendous ytube success, that's very very rare. Hats off to you my good sir.
Well yes, but he has made 2 other videos similar to this one already. There is *a lot* of recycled content on this channel nowadays...
@@isakwatz11 That's another debate.
Not gonna lie, I see a drill press as that one tool you should have in a shop that's there for when you need it and you'll be glad you have it.
It's not gonna do as much as your table saw, but when you need to punch out 36 peg holes for a book self to a depth of no less than .25 inches I'll take a drill press any day compared to doing that shit by hand.
Preach brother lol. Absolutely worth it for those projects, but not necessarily mandatory.
My second woodworking project ever I got a little abitious. Almost too ambitious. I made a 56 bottle wine rack with dowel joinery, that's 128 slats with two holes each plus holes in vertical stiles, and in the side panels. Looooooots of holes, a drill press was a godsend for all those holes.
I'll add that the drill press is one of the few stationary tools in a woodshop that can be used for other materials (like plastics and metals) safely without any modifications to the machine. That alone makes it a very useful tool.
I was always taught that you still needed to change the speed (and bit) when going from wood to metal? Is this something that has to be done? should be done? or just a matter of learning from someone in a machine shop? I have no experience with plastic but i would presume it would be similar to wood?
@@trekie30122 Depends is the best answer. Plastics, aluminium (most common "soft" alloys), brass, copper, zinc would work at most speeds. I never change the speed on mine, because I set it to the 2nd lowest ~1100 RPM because I only have a 2.4 Ampere induction motor on it : it lacks torque at higher speeds and it going to work on almost any material I throw at it.
For steel, it depends on thickness and hardness. Also depends on how much you care about your drill bits and what quality of drill bits you have.
It's useless less ya in a work shop and want loads of straight holes but battery powered drills can take same tools and portable ..... Good for drilling thick metals .....upgrade to CNC milling machine for production so it's a bit obsolete really
Being disabled with limited use of my hands on my bench top drill press is very useful
@@jackgetzler3451 in that sense it's useful but still limited to clamping work to its table for metal work it's not much of a problem and can use magnets or electro magnet to hold the work for you but mine just a cheap work top one and just sits in shed with a wire wheel on it to clean up metal but I have broke a few small drills in it lol
Back to the basics, this is what grabbed my attention when I first found the channel years ago. Still draws me in!
Same here
Ditto.
Most definitely
Same
Well said.
Easily one of the most important channels in the history of RUclips...
Perfectly straight holes, and having the power to use large forstner bits are the main benefits IMO.
Hey steve, i have to say that if my teachers were half as good as you i would have actually paid attention at school😂
I've watched a lot of your video's and learned so much. Thank you, and keep doing what you do👊🏻
I'm not here to brag or flex, but that Powermatic 2820EVS has been a game changer for me. Yeah I know, waaaaay to expensive. But worth it. And I only use it 3 - 4 times a month.
Enjoy 👍🏻
The drill press 'size' is double the reach to indicate the center of a circle that it can drill to. Why they don't use the same terminology as with bandsaw who knows. I think you're right and it's just a manufacturers advertising gimmick to make the tool seem larger than it is.
Good drill presses can be found on many of local sale sites. I have found three very good benchtop and floor model drill presses on CL over the years. They bring premium prices right now because it takes so long to get anything new. But a 12" benchtop drill press in very good condition should be less than $200 and that amount will usually get you something of better quality than new. Most important if you buy used is make sure you get the chuck key with it because it can be difficult to find the correct size key. Without a chuck key knock $50 off the price before you evaluate anything else about it.
Another way of looking at it, I have a 12 inch wide board and I know that I can drill in the middle of it (6 inches from the edge).
Awesome tips, Steve! Thanks a lot! 😃
Merry Christmas! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Haben ist besser als brauchen.
The depth stop (in combo with a Forstner bit) can be very useful for hogging out mortise and tenon slots as well. You can use the precision of the drill press to scoop away ~90% of the material you need and then clean up the holes with chisels, files, sandpaper, etc.
By far the best advantage though, is the repeatability of a drill press. A lot of woodworking doesn't require perfectly machined parts, but usually you DO need multiple parts the exact same size and with the same hole patterns for joinery or fasteners.
If you’re buying a drill press, try to get one like Steve’s that has a “rack and pinion” crank for raising/lowering the table. Many (like mine) don’t and it’s impossible to lower the table and maintain alignment with the fence. Note that the 1/16” drill used for pilot holes is much shorter than a 1/4 or 1/2” drill bit, thus requiring the table to be lowered.
You beat me to it. Probably the #1 must have feature IMO.
That’s what I hate most about my Shopsmith - there’s no controlled, precise way to move the carriage toward the headstock (or the headstock away from the carriage). One of the reasons I bought a dedicated drill press.
Or use a 4x4 for the short bit then a 1x4 for the longer one.
@@tarcorfd8547 that’s a very good idea! My fence isn’t tall enough but that’s fixable. Thanks for the recommendation.
Valid point there. It's pretty much essential feature or at least you'll miss one if you use one and lose that ability :)
The drill press = the table saw for holes.
Definitely the most boring video I've watched today. 😁 I've had a Craftsman 9" benchtop drill press for a long time. It's incredibly useful for all the reasons you mentioned. My only complaint is that the 1/3 HP motor is underpowered and tends to bog down a lot. Of course I may not have the sharpest forstner bits either. I've been on the hunt for a larger one just to get more power. Thanks for sharing!
I remember when buying my first drill press I was totally unexcited by the prospect of acquiring this basic cornerstone of any wood-shop. I was almost by depressed as I brought it home and set it up. These emotions quickly disappeared over the next week as I discovered the myriad of advantages it offered me in my work. I have since added a second one dedicated to metalwork and if I had the space I would add half a dozen more all dedicated to specific repetitive activities such as mortising or cutting bungs, etc. The drill press is the most versatile boring machine you will ever acquire.
It doesn't sound boring at all 😉
The only thing I would add is including dust collection with the fence. Best thing I ever did. You can get one from Rockler or make your own. Well worth the money or effort!
Was just about ready to buy an 8 inch drill press but got a little hung up on your size recommendation. I was wondering: is that recommendation in part due to leaving space for your fence? And if so, do you think a split fence (perhaps held together with a piece of steel or maybe something underneath the drill press table) would be a good way to get back some of the swing?
I also have one of those portable drill guides. My take on that is that, primarily for wider boards, it can help serve some of the same purposes as a drill press.
@Not Bugarev Thanks for the feedback on your experience.
I rewatched Steve's drill press table videos and noticed he actually has quite a big gap between the column and the table to allow for turning the lever to adjust the drill press table, and the fence itself is quite beefy. I'm planning to cut notches in the table to allow room for the column and lever. Steve's older drill press table used T tracks in the table itself to hold the fence. I was thinking that could allow shifting the fence to one side, which would not only serve to allow the fence to line up with the column but also allow for extending the fence to one side.
1:32 all i see is some guy wearing gloves with long, loose sleeves very close to a machine that spins at hundreds if not thousands of rpm. yeah no thanks dawg
I don't know why Steve but you're wrong!! No one needs a table THAT big on a drill press!!! (I'm trying to see why someone would argue about someone elses tool preference. I still don't get it.)
You double the distance because that's the biggest diametered center you can drill on a circle
When dinosaurs roam the earth I remember watching another Steve Ramsey video on how to use a drill press.
Very interesting question! I really want one. Top marks for the boring jokes.
OMG I just caught myself blowing the wood shaving off my phone 🌬 🤦♀️ 😆😆😆BWA HA HA HA
For anyone like me an easy way to not lose the chuck key is to put it in the chuck after use.
I drilled a little wooden block that i stuck on the head with velcro, works great. I also store all my different tool specific wrenches on the stand/near by with magnets.
I put a strong bar magnet on the side of the DP head and stick the key on there when not in use.
The reason for the "doubling" is most likely to indicate the diameter that you can reach every point of
Or maybe the widest board you can make a vertical cut in!
Boring tool...your dadjokes mojo is strong sir.
It's doubled because you can drill a hole anywhere on a board with the listed width. So if you have 6" of clearance, you can drill a hole anywhere on a 12" wide board (because you can spin the board around).
I'm pretty sure it's so tool companies can market their tools as bigger and more capable then they really are.
Not only does it make "Boring" tasks easier and accurate -- it makes them pretty "straight" forward....
This is super helpful to me... I'm only just starting out with woodworking but I have a drill press that I inherited from my dad. Seeing your table with fence means I can actually contemplate how I can use it. Thank you!
20 years old? It's just a baby, my floor model Delta was made in 1940. Still as good as the day it left the factory.
Spindle speed = (cutting speed of material) x (cutting factor of tool) x 4 / (diameter of cutter)
But, as you said, it doesn’t matter THAT much. Erring on the slow side will help your bits last longer, but wood is pretty forgiving.
👍👍🇧🇷
Can u plz make a vid on making dovetails with a tablesaw aswell as no dado stack because I don't have one but I wanna do it on a table saw answell as box joints
I just bought a new drill press for £55, haven’t used it yet.
Love this and Love your podcasts!!!!!
Steve you're amazing. It's 4pm here in Australia and you've already had over 40,000 views. I've been watching for the past couple of years and learned so much. I hope you had a great Christmas Day and all the best for a safe and happy 2022.
One nice addition to a table is a sacrificial and replaceable center section.
I tried to go to your site to get the tool list but was given a 404 error saying the page doesn't exist.
Amazing Ryobi advertising)
Thank you, Steve. Really happy to find you on youtube. From Russia with love.
I always see them on Facebook marketplace for not too much.
Per Almered's music is back! Really cool and upbeat.
Great content with a bit of dad jokes thrown in - outstanding!
Thank you for this video. This is the type of videos that I like to see you do. I have a drill press similar to the one in your video but I never knew about being able to sand with it, very interesting thank you
It's not the best to put lateral loads on drill presses, very easy for the chuck to fall out.
I got one same size. I havent got a single straight hole. Total waste
For your first drillpress look for the Bosh PBD40. It has electronic variable speed (no more belts to shift!), digital depth meter readout, laser, more power than needed and is cheap.
Then when you're more experienced you still keep it because it's awesome.
The Bosch is really nice. Laser isn’t accurate though. Apparently can be adjusted, but requires opening the case. The digital depth and electronic speed control are great though.
I was a fan way back but I’ve been off the grid for about ten years and I pop back in and you have almost 2 million followers 🔥
Nice.
This is the content in here for. Love ya bro! 😎
And Merry Christmas!
-peak river table
Is nobody going to notice the Rainbow Ryobi drill he had?
Drill presses are incredibly useful. I find myself using it even for stuff I don't"need" it for and could use a hand drill. In my opinion one of the best advantages is the mechanical advantage the handle gives for downward pressure. Well worth the investment.
Agreed, hardly ever use hand drill no that I have one except when the reach is to much (large boards)
@@chrisisd mostly the same here. Also didn't mention it before but for circle cutters, large hole saws, and large forstner bits it is a must!
A laser alignment guide is very handy when you are making holes in varying places and the drill bit (or hole saw more likely) stops you from seeing where the point of the drill is at, without fiddling about with changing bits for a small one, hoping the job doesn't move out of place if you bump it putting the big bit back in....... One day I'll figure out how to get my add on one to work properly, I assume the ones that come built in to the drill press are easier to set up. One way to tell if a drill press is intended for woodworkers is the depth it can drill to without moving the table - woodworker's drill presses have a capacity of around 6 inches (150mm) while metal working presses may only have a capacity of 3 to 4 inches (I've seen 65mm,
My drill press is close to 20 years old. It’s a Craftsman, no “fancy” adjustments like yours. Loosen collar to raise and lower, be sure to receneter the through hole… regardless for woodworking it is there when i need that “very” precise hole. For instance when making Pinewood derby cars with Cub Scouts, predrilling the axle holes to 5/32s is key for easy wheel alignment. I also use it as a press at times by closing down the shank to push tight fitting dowel pins into place… when I use it I am so happy I have it. Thanks for another informative video. Oh yeah never adjusted the speed belts… probably because it really hasnt been a problem
Lol mines almost 40 and still looks & works like new.
Timely video. I used mine this morning making some wooden bushings.
The need for a table and fence became evident as I lined up my 1st centered hole. Haven't used my forster bits in a while. I was glad the 1" one was still sharp.
How about band saws?
Maximum cutting speeds are published based on the material you're using to cut (ie HSS, tungsten carbide, etc) and the material you're cutting. Optimal cutting speed is as fast as you can go without damaging the cutter, and manufacturing engineering is all about cutting as fast as possible without damaging the cutter.
Cutting speed is about how fast the two materials are moving against each other, so if you're using a drill bit it's about how fast the tip is moving.
But for one off pieces, it's all a bit academic so long as you're not going too fast.
I really like that table/ fence do you have a video on it?
Edit: Already have the link in the description man that is awesome. Thanks
I just want to take the time to say thank you for all the time it takes you to make these videos not only the hours editing and conceptualizing them. It must be a challenge to put yourself in the shoes of what you think your viewers would like to see . You’re my hero brother I watch all your videos over and over again. A friend once told me “ you don’t have any idea the amount of people you make and impact on “. So keep on truck brother thanks so much for your videos and effort . In the end yours add up to the most valuable . We all appreciate and I’m sure you’ve changed Families and I mean families lives before with your work / art/ info/ Channel🏆
My wife surprised me with a Ryobi Drill Press for the holidays this year and then you drop this video drops the next day… serendipity?!
I don't use mine as a drum sander anymore, but I do put an inflatable ball sander on it and smooth out the inside of bowls. Flexible pad sanders are great for the inside and outside of bowls. Both suck in a handheld drill! I made my own table and love having a fence. It makes repeating drilling a distance from the edge easy and repeatable. Plus I can't drill straight so it helps fix that XD
This video had a lot of boring content
Thanks Steve. I've had this same drill press I bought second hand maybe 10 years ago and I'll be using it more often now that you've shown me some of the additional features it does like sanding. Love your channel.
Ive come to the point where i need a pillar drill (drill press) and this vlog has shown me thing i need to consider in my purchase. Thanks🙂👍🏴
Love your videos Steve, thank-you for sharing and Happy Holidays to you and yours🤘🙌😄💥
The fence is a safety item also. I was cutting sheet metal years ago and the bit grabbed the metal and spun it and cut may hand. I either clamp things or use a fence now.
This is an often overlooked feature of a fence. A good fence and some C clamps are essential accessories for a drill press for wood or metal work.
Great video! Thanks!
I'd like to see you try out Garrett Wade's Portable Drill Guide Jig and see how it compares to a standard drill press for basic woodworking projects/tasks. I don't often need a drill press for my projects but sometimes I need to be accurate and consistent, especially with forstner bits. I think a good portable press fits my needs, budget, and most importantly, space/storage needs. Plus the portable nature can be useful for some deck projects and drilling accurate holes in beams on site.
Boring tasks. Nice. 😆
Drill press Its one of my unsung heroes always there and saves the day when needed
Thanks Steve!
Getting rid of that tool would be so de-pressing.
I currently have 4in thoat on my drill press and yeah it sometimes is an issue but not to often. I also use my table as the depth stop as I broke the plastic on on my harbor farts press. For finer adjustment I just move the drill bit then re chuck it. The drill press is the only tool that always is set up in my shop. Just so convenient and good at it's task. I make beer bottle openers with magnets makes it easy to batch out a step.
‘Boring’…oh, brother…
Surface footage per Minute, is what determines optimal RMP, and most wood, can easily handle over 1000 Feet Per Minute
SFM=.062×DIA×RPM tells you how fast the outside of the drill is moving, in linear terms.
To determine the RPM, for a given/known SFM, the equation is:
RPM=3.82×SFM÷ the drill diameter.
Far more complicated, than is required, to drill wood. We use it more for steel work.
I got a drill press back when I used to build wooden model planes, but I've used it for many other projects and materials. It's a handy tool to have in the shop.
It really depends on what youre making. Some specific projects and tasks make it extremely useful, but its only worth it if you use it often
I would also say price is a factor. If one can be found for an absolute steal, or free from someone (ie. relative or close friend) someone would be crazy not to take it, even if they rarely use it.
I used to like my drill press, but I have been having power problems with it... Any light pressure I apply on it with a 4-1/4 hole saw on plywood brings it to a complete stall. Is it just underpowered, or something is faulty with it? Should a typical drill press be able to drive a hole saw through a 1/2 board without issues?
Too bad Ryobi doesn't offer this model any more (as of 2022). Three-pulley 12" bench top drill presses that go as slow as 280 RPM are expensive.
You will find that Harbor freight carries a very well built floor drill press
For about 500 bucks!!
It will do anything you could possibly want. But, be willing to bolt it to the floor. Floor models have a tendency to be top heavy...
I usually agree with you about tools, but have to say that you dismiss laser guides too casually. Having laser crosshairs on my drill press has turned out to be a very nice feature, especially for drilling multiple holes. Essential? No. But minimal cost and often helpful to quickly put "the spot" in the right place for the drill.
One thing about those sanding ideas. Sure I suppose sanding works with slight pressure, but people need to be aware that, morse taper, the part that hold drill chucks in place aren't made to withstand side loading forces in drill presses. Meaning forget trying to mill with drill presses. You'll likely just get morse taper loose and chuck will drop to floor and it's possible to damage them that way. There are tempting looking cross feed tables, but they're only for indexing where you drill. Not for milling. Also drill bearings aren't usually designed to withstand constant side forces, so there's also that.
Now there's likely someone already typing that there's morse taper on mills too, but it isn't same thing. There's also drawbar in them. Taper can indeed be something like MK2, but that's where the similarities end.
Hey, I clicked on your free guide and it brought me to your website, but when I click on "send me the tool list" it brings me to a page saying "Error 404 page not found" not a big issue for me as the page does show a link at the top saying "Hardware Store" with a dropdown menu with an option saying "essential tool list" and that link brings you to the right location i think. Just wanted you to know. Thanks for all the amazing videos and passing on your knowledge ! I appreciate you!
I made your fence system a long time ago and it was easy to make and is perfect for my uses. I have the Wen bench top drill press and it has been indispensable.
Hey Stev, 🙄 I mean Steve, I’ve never seen you use a table saw out feed table, can you design a “use when you need it” table, maybe it folds up and hangs on the wall ? Great Channel 😃😃😃😃😃
I like the video. And noticed a Raiders sticker on the press. Can you do a project that is for THE RAAAIDDERS?
I would love to have a drill press! Your clickbait game is on point with this video title. :D I certainly don't *need* the press, but I became real fond of them when my dad salvaged one when I was much younger.
Good grief! I didn't know my drill press (Craftsman 12") had a depth stop until seeing this one. I ran out to the shop and sure enough, it's just missing the tightening knob so I never paid attention to the collar.
Always giving us very good and useful videos no matter your skill level 👍 Thanks for all that you do Steve.. You help us in so many ways
Hey Steve most of the time I agree with you but this time ... no. Once you have a drill press you will never do without. Agree, you can drill a fairly straight hole with a hand drill but if we are measuring our cuts in 32'nds then I want a perpendicular hole to within 0.5 degrees. When you drill holes longer than 4"s or so it needs a drill press.
I've never worked in a shop that didn't have a drill press, whether personal or commercial. The drill press is an indispensable tool.
This tool is awesome! I don't know why it isn't a woodworking staple for more people and I learned something new. Using the press as a sander is brilliant!!! There are about a million unusual things I can sand now. A little advice, spend the money and get a press that can go down to at least 500 rpm. I tried to save money and got the 750 rpm and now I already need to buy a new press.
Your machine is called a 12" drillpress because a 6" radius will give you 12" circumference. Same as a lathe.
Real punny title
A drill press only drills straight holes if: 1) the table is level side to side - you need to check this; and 2) the clamp that keeps the table height from moving is fairly tight (front to back squareness).
I bought a drill press exactly like yours a couple weeks ago off marketplace for $85 in almost new condition.
Drill presses should just drill. The only ruined used drill press I ever bought had a drum sander on it. Changed chucks but the shaft was bad too. Don’t think any radial loads are healthy for them, so no milling either.
First thing to do with any drill press: super glue a small magnet somewhere to keep your chuck key.
Also, it's not the best to put lateral loads on the chuck bearings, easy for the chuck to pop out.
If I learned anything from this video, it's how to change those damn belts on the top. Looks like you have to remove both! I had a hell of a time adjusting my Harbor Freight one.
I certainly wouldn't say no to one. But I'm in the He who dies with the most toys wins club. My dad was a founding member I'm sure because he had one, and a band saw and a lathe and if he couldn't afford one he'd make something close to what ever he needed to get the job done. I was his wood holder and tool getter growing up. Loved every minute of it. One of the perks of being the 2nd daughter is you got to play with all the cool stuff and not get your hair done and have to wear stockings and skirts.
I bought that same drill press in 2007... new. You are telling me they had been making that design that long?
Wished you talked about safety with this tool. Fixed spinning tool represent hazard and must be used carefully, one can rapidly feel too safe since it’s not hand held
thanks steve