Overheated after new Radiator! Tow In! Infiniti 3.5 EX35
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
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Probably the first time that radiator actually had pressure in awhile. Old one was probably leaking or not coming up to pressure so it didn't leak at the heater hose. New radiator got up to good pressure and found the next weak link.
My thoughts exactly
This! Old car, you fix one leak and the next weak spot will show itself
That's how it was with my old Jeep. Replaced the radiator cap, and suddenly it had the correct pressure so the water pump started leaking. Replaced the water pump, and wouldn't you know it, the radiator gave out.
I came down here to say the very same thing.
Chevy cruze. 2 years old. Water pump failure.. next year water outlet... next year water pump.. next year over heats on my way home blows all the fluid out the tank. I sold it knocking to toyota.. some vehicles are trash.. 58k miles
watching you trying to fish that plastic coupler brought back memories of why I no longer pull wrenches for a living. People have NOT IDEA how hard and frustrating being a line mechanic is. I respect you for NOT cussing. I was never that disciplined.
Reminds me of the dentist trying to pull my wisdom tooth which broke into pieces.
I curse all the time but that's seems the work get done for me 😜sometime I wish tho I was a bit more patiant
Ray next time you go to Home Depot, Lowes, Ace or any decent hardware store pickup some brass hose barbs they are stronger and aren't affected by the heat they will cost much less than anything you get from a parts store and you will have them in your tool box.
I definitely try to put metal ones back in. However the plastic distribution valve is the only thing I can find. I can find metal ones.
I stick with plastic only because I don't want any type of chemical reaction with the metal/coolant.
you just beat me to that suggestion lol
@@davidheale6435 I would use steel or aluminum barbed couplings
@@brucestorey917 Yes, I use stainless menders. I've had the brass ones fail over time.
Most people don't appreciate the amount of hard physical work a mechanic has to do along with their skill and training. Kudos to you.
how do you know this?
@@user-jt5vm3mi1w cos Darth Vader is his dad.
@@mongo4511 he remote squeeze throat
The broken barb was originally a bleeder valve you crack open when filling with coolant. Common problem on these VQ's for them to break. They make metal replacements that last a lot longer. Makes bleeding the coolant much easier when you have one in there. No bleeder valve when filling and that's why it took so long to bleed of air. Head gasket is more than likely fine.
That's good to know then.
Why is it overheating still then?
Exactly right. That's a bleeder valve that needs to be replaced with something other than what our man Ray used. They are crap quality, even the new, replacement valves from the dealer.
@@shaunkelly9053 Because there's still air in the system. You see how it kept bubbling even after attempting to bleed it for a while? The air is trapped in there and it's not getting out until it's bled correctly.
Nissan has a very specific bleeding procedure for these engines. Basic idea is to crack open the bleeder valve and then start slowly refilling the system. As soon as it starts pouring out of the bleeder valve, you close it and continue to refill until the system is full. Then you blast the heat and do the normal procedure like any other car.
@@Paul-oh4fe Yeah but you should mention to not turn the car on yet. First open the bleeder valve with the car off and slowly pour into the fill funnel at the radiator neck until you see Coolant start to come out the bleeder valve. Then Close the bleeder valve and continue pouring until it stabilizes at the funnel and you cant pour anymore. Then you go inside the vehicle and turn it on and blast the heater on Max. Wait a couple seconds for the coolant in the funnel to get sucked in by the engine and continue to poor until it stabilizes again at the funnel. Their will be some bubbles from the air escaping dont be scared about that, but once you see that you cant fill anymore go back in the car and hold the Rpm’s at 3000 or so for 10 seconds and do this every 3 minutes to make sure all the air gets out the system. You basically just do that until theirs little to no bubbles coming from the Funnel at the radiator neck. Ive done this on my Hr so i memorized the entire process 😂
Hey I’m an Infiniti tech. That’s a common failure on the 3.5 and 3.7.
If it’s broken or about to be broken, disconnect the evap line that’s right beside the heater hoses and take it out. Gives you more room. Then take the clamps on the heater hoses and push them behind the heater connector. Take pliers and break the connector in half. Then take both hoses, point them downwards, and use the pliers to crush the connector inside the hose, the pieces will fall out like confetti. Make sure all the plastic is out, then I use silicone lube in the new connector and push it into the hose. It takes me like 10-15 minutes doing it this way. Top off the coolant and don’t worry about bleeding it, I’ve never had a problem
Wow what a unfriendly engine compartment to work in. I do not envy your job Ray, but I respect how you always put 110% effort into every car you service.
Totally agree 🥇
Agree x2
That is most vehicles now
I feel like when they engineer these things they don't consider the serviceability of it. Most notorious with German and Japanese makes.
@@RyanBurnsRed
Most are built and designed for install efficiency at the plant when built.
You are one of the most patient people that I’ve ever seen. I could not be a mechanic as I would have burned the car down trying to work in small places. You have a special talent.
Ray, glad to see you like the funnel set I sent you!
I really liked mine, saves lots of coolant spills.
Eric the Car guy had one, so I had to get on too 😉.
its really the apropriate way to burp all sealed cooling systems the right away to
What's this funnel set called? I I assume it seals to the filler opening so that systems that require a purge get completely filled. I do not do a lot of work any more but seem like a good tool on todays cars.
@@fredrickdavenport1611 Just Google radiator funnel kit. It will come right up.
you gonna bring it up everytime he fills a radiator?
As a mechanic with 50 Years experience, I Applaud your posts, Wish we had More like You out there
When your coolant system keeps blowing out the weakest link, thats classic compression gas in cooling system. Do a chem/block test on it to confirm. No fault of the previous shop. 😉
I thought the same thing
With the bubbles and the history of failure, testing for hydrocarbons in the system is a good idea
I bet Ray is gonna' do those tests in the sequel. Cuz' I've seen him do them in other vids. Sorry, I should have said "spoiler alert". Still, the suspense is killing me. 😜
I learned that with my 6.4l. Ended up constantly blowing coolant out of radiator cap
@@timdaniels2100 Right? I was thinking the same thing. This engine probably has a blown head gasket(s). Hopefully the heads aren't warped; those can be a real head ache! LoL.
What I love about watching these is appreciating how a skilled tradesman can alternate between using brute force and delicate persuasion.
I like how almost all your videos has that coworker running the die grinder for no reason. It actually adds to the other sounds of the repair shop and sounds good. It adds to the background noises that one would expect to hear in a repair shop!!
That is likely a tire guy scuffing the inside of a tire for a repair patch. In a shop that does tires, that sound is constant.
@@blastem Agree.
Lol
When it comes to broken plastic connectors like those, I'm always afraid I'll wind up with a little piece left behind somewhere in the hose, and that piece will get lodged somewhere it'll restrict coolant flow, or causing some other issue that'll be a real fun time to diagnose.
Me, too. Ray wasn't bothered at all about it, so I figure this car will soon return for a new water pump or thermostat.
if im not mistaken the bleeder port enters the heater core so wouldnt be to much of an issue, cooling the engine anyways
I was thinking the same thing when he was squeezing the hose to crumple the stuck parts. Where do those pieces go that fall into the hose and didn't come out?.
@@michaelmclemore A clogged heater core is one of the worst jobs you can face on almost any vehicle. Range Rovers were known for having the plastic fittings break into pieces over time and cause one side of the heater core to clog so that you lose heating on one side on the interior. It happened to ours, and we traded the car instead of having to deal with that mess.
Rainy is a good mechanic, but he's often sloppy and uneducated on some items. He should have cut the hose off instead of contaminating the cooling/heater system. Very bad.
That's how I feel about hypodermic needles and veins. Hence my phobia
When I watch your videos I start to feel that I'm not retired and look forward to tomorrow's job. Thanks
Just a touch of constructive criticism...
When you take the hood prop and stick it in a hole, you're essentially turning said rod into a PDR tool and can make a high spot in the hood, or worse cracking the paint if something presses down on the hood, or the bottom gets shifted or dropped. Just trying to prevent a headache for you in the future.
Shocking that he doesn't have those tools for locking the struts in place. Very amateur to use sticks when there are professional tools that won't restrict access or cause damage. This guy seems so good, but disappoints me way too often. At least he doesn't try to hide his mistakes.
@@JetFire9 you can be complacent with those as well. You forget those and try to close the hood or hatch and you can cause a buckle to occur. I have been in the Automotive trade all my life, and if I could not work on my own vehicle, I wouldn't have any issues letting him work on mine. Other than I am a stickler for keeping things as OEM as possible, but he is not in charge of that area. I think your criticism may be a touch unwarranted. He is very good at his trade and there are not many techs out there that will show the fails along with the success. I just want him to get a replacement tip for the hood prop and not shove it into holes in the hood bracing, for his own sake and liability.
@@assertivepaintlessdentrepa2634 Nah bro. Some cars even come from the factory with locking struts that you need to lift before bringing down. So your theory is false. He needs to buy the right tool for the job. Rainy isn’t terrible, but what he did with that plastic pipe was ridiculous and could cause a $2000 repair of a new heater core. I guess you’re ok with that? Lol. Also, don’t let him anywhere near your AC system. He is clueless around them. He is better than most, but I would rate him a B-
Got to luv plastic parts in the cooling system. Hot and cold cycling and plastic just don't last as long as hoped.
Glad I'm not the only one who talks to difficult parts when removing or refitting to make them understand what I want. Keeps me company on a big job.
Hmm should close off hose with a vice grip to keep plastic from falling down the hose into the cooling system.Its a murph’s law.
That's supposed to be a bleeder valve. This is a terrible video
Yep, that's what I was thinking.
Nice to see someone not jump to blaming the "other" guy. Always enjoy your work!
Drinking my favorite hot beverage in the morning and watching your videos is a morning routine now for me.
same 👍
Yes, but glad my coffee was finished when he suddenly announced "Zebra Cakes" out of nowhere.
It's also my routine. When I wake up I wonder what Ray will be working on today.
tools needed:
floor mats
needle nose pliers
lay floor mats across engine, lay body on floor mats, use needle nose pliers to remove crappy plastic connector.
great job as usual, ray
Which went bad first? The radiator or the head gasket. Wild guess is the radiator had a leak and the car was over heated which warped the heads. Those aluminum heads will warp as soon as they loose cooling and it don't take much coolant loss for this to happen.
At this point it really doesn't matter other than curiosity.
I suspect the same. This is probably at least the 2nd time that engine has been overheated.
That model 3.5 Litre engine series were almost bomb proof. I would be surprised if it had a Head Gasket failure from normal operation and it has not been confirmed there is a head gasket failure yet, we will have to see what shows up in part 2. One thing I did not hear during the run time was the Radiator fan running. Part 2 should be good and informative.
I have that funnel. It came with a bunch of extensions and adapters. I definitely recommend them, very nice to have in the shop
As a former Nissan tech, I've learned to always use a vacuum filler on Nissan's with the VQ35 engine. They're notoriously difficult to get all of the air out of. Guys that didn't have a vacuum filler would raise the front end by using just the front lift arms.
Yup
I love my new vacuum filler. so much easier - but not just easier better! You can then tell if you have a bad hose or break as you cannot get vacuum if a break.
Was telling myself I should get one for the last 3 years, just bought one last weekend but I haven't got to try it yet 🙃
This is like the Ford Duratecs where they have reversed cooling systems and if you get air into the block, prepare to spend hours purging air out of it. Ford says hold engine at 2500rpm for 3 mins after thermostat opens, rev it up to 4000rpm for 5 secs then return to 2500 rpm for another 3 mins. Didn't work out well and the engine overheated. Tried what FordTechMakuloco said like 5 times and it stopped overheating. But everytime start from a stop you hear water moving inside the engine. Did the procedure like 10 more times and after 2 weeks of driving, finally there seems to be no air in there anymore. So yes, I think there are quite a few engines that are much better off vacuum filled.
Absolutely spot-on. These are not 15-minute wham-bam-thank-you-ma'am cooling system refills. If no Air-Lift, factory manual says let it heat up, let it cool down and draw from the overflow tank, then repeat 2x more. And as others have posted, typically that union is a Tee with a bleeder, Nissan part # 92500-AR000. Think about it....otherwise there's no reason to put a union there.
I love those no spill rad funnels. One of my favorite things I’ve ever bought. It’s almost 100 percent necessary for cars like Subarus that have lower thermostats and are prone to trapped air.
Same with the Dodge 4.7L V8. The thermostat is the bottom and controls flow from lower hose just inside the block, not easy to replace but extremely necessary as these engines do not like to be hot. I drive a 2001 Durango 4.7 and had a remanufactured engine installed in April due to a repeated overheating issue prior to my owning it that led to a warped head and blown head gasket. Yep it never quits bubbling, just like mine did. ☁️ Exhaust clouds?
Use a little liquid soap when installing barbs, hoses etc to lube them for installation. Externals can be washed with a squirt bottle, internals by the coolant, makes life a little easier.
Ray, love your subtle innuendos throughout many of your videos. Has me chuckling during morning coffee. Thanks for the great clarity on what you’re doing and keeping smiles on our faces
The worm gear clamps are not supposed be used on heating because when hot and cold the other ones can ajust to the temperature change because they are springy and the worm gear clamps dont and can break your plastic barb.
Whoa. Good point!
What I have found that almost always worked for me is to let the car sit overnight. Then, when it is totally cold in the AM, start the car and feel for pressure in the upper hose. If there is pressure on a cold start-up it is a head gasket. A good head gasket won't have pressure in the hose until it starts to warm up.
Hi Ray, The cooling system going into the heater is above the radiator and will have air in it. The plastic part that broke is not the correct part for that location. There should be an air/bleed screw between the hoses. When filling the rad with coolant the funnel that you use would be ideal as it need to be filled high enough to be above the bleed screw. If not, there will be air pockets in the heater system.
Some models don’t have one.
That makes sense that was the issue I had with my heater blowing cool air. But like said Ray it might have blown the head gasket by now. Just have to wait until the next installment. Can't wait.
Isn't the radiator cap and the overflow tank meant to fix that air issue? Pressure builds and pushes air into the overflow tank and then when it cools it sucks coolant back in. I've only got old cars though, no clue if it's different on new cars.
Thank God you are Through in your diagnosis. You always ask Why something Failed. Thanks for your Videos I enjoyed them all and learned a Lot even a Age 76.
12:34 if you look real close you can see the moment when the clamp slips into the shadow real next to the 10 mm socket
It needed the "You Died" Dark Souls layer on it lol.
I found with cooling systems, (and today's crappy plastics) you almost need to replace everything at once. I have a little Tiburon that went in for timing belt service, and they of course suggest water pump service. Okie dokie. About a month later, the top of my plastic radiator starts cracking.... so replace that. Obviously replace rad cap. But all you wind up doing is finding the next part to fail. Get that pressure up in the cooling system and the next weakest part is gonna pop. I next had to do the throttle-body heater hoses and then a gasket on the block transfer manifold. ( I did the O-rings that connect the water pump to the transfer manifold at the same time because plot! ) Thankfully now my little car is holding it's pee.... but for a few months there it was all about patching leaks.
You're videos are great! Knowledge and entertainment. Can't beat that. My uncle's name is Ray and he was a do it all guy. Master mechanic, body work, paint, basically everything. He's not with us anymore, but he got me into mechanic work. I always liked working on cars, especially my own. A neck & back injury basically ended that. I can only do so much before I'm in too much pain. But knowledge is always helpful. Makes you realize how many shops try to sell you stuff you don't need. Keep up the great videos!
I had an uncle named Ray as well and he was a do it all car guy too, although he only did Classic and antique cars and he is no longer with us as well. Like you, I used to love working on cars but back and neck injuries (15 out of the 23 discs are bad) stopped me from being able to work on cars or much of anything anymore.
Two things I thought of. Number one, make sure the interior heater matrix is set to hot (if possible, before the system is evacuated. Obviously not possible in this case. But it needs it anyway), as this will leave an air lock in the system which takes ages to "bleed" out, then stop. Just like,e your engine did just, when it took the coolant into the matrix. Number two, are the fans running on the back of the radiator, which would cause overheating when no air is passing through the radiator.
I'm also guessing a fan here.
1. can't hear it
2. almost no temperature difference between radiator hoses
Indeed. Perhaps the fans had not been plugged in after the radiator replacement, or were already inoperative. That could lead to abnormally high pressure and the failure of that component. We don't even know whether that was an OEM component.
Note that the driver had just left the shop from the radiator replacement. I doubt that this was a coincidence, but the entire chain of cause and effect remains unclear. Who pays? We can only hope there is no engine damage.
From my limited experience and younger, foolish DIY days of firing parts canons.. there was an instance of an overheating problem I had with an old Mazda of mine. New thermostat - didn't work. New radiator - didn't work. New fan - didn't work. Then I noticed after driving, it would gargle and grumble from the radiator and purge lots of gasses into the overflow - head gasket. We then parted ways lol
Had the same thing happen on my Dodge Caravan on a rainy day near Halifax Nova Scotia Canada. I heard it blow, and you should have seen the huge white cloud behind me! Luckily I was near an exit. A perfect stranger drove us into town. Picked up a piece of 1/2 inch copper tube, 2 clamps, and a bottle of coolant. We were down for just 2 hours, and back on our way.
TFSFirerman, I am the type of person that stops for persons at the side of the road and helps with what I can. I'm often in the mountains where there is no cell service and I always have all of my tools with me and a lot of odds and ends as well (I drive a 4X4 truck) I'm an old school shade tree mechanic at 66yrs young. Good luck on your travels.
I worked in a dealership for almost 15 yrs and I still appreciate your videos, this one is the classic case of ever since lol, I couldn't be something else it has to be the radiator lol... great work brother
You're a good man Ray. You're a mechanic who cares and that should go a long way with your customers. It's probably hard for you to notice at times but trust me they notice.
Ray, put in my 2 cents after 45 yrs. I have used the funnel fill system you are using for years. Very small thermostat in that engine, will erupt coolant for a while. Put out side & cool off. Engine will take what it needs during cooldown. Fill & mark overflow bottle. With electric fans , it won’t take long to overheat , if it is going to. Remember , boiling point is 212 & for every lb. pressure on cap raises 3 degrees.your @ 213 no cap. Not surprised old plastic union split, @ hottest part of enclosed engine compartment. Great video again.
I'm not sure of your boiling points, but as I only have 40+ years of working on cars, mostly race engines...I will let that go your way. I will say that a 50%-50% mix of antifreeze and water is 223°F and a full on 100% Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of over 375°F...I don't worry on my engine builds on the pressure difference as you specified so can't comment. I will dial in specific engine temps with applications being used with the thermostat.
Watsup my friend? Great video I used to be a big Datsun Nissan infiniti fan
In the 70s, 80s the rear wheel drive Datsun was unstoppable. I had a 71 510 wagon that I beat on thru my teenage years and if the steering box hadn't rusted off I'd still be driving it! I believe it had a 1.6 or 1.8 OHC with a 4 speed stick. Nothing power, well power brakes but not steering! Had like 165/70/13 tires really Cheap to replace, like $120@SET...I remember $7 would fill the fuel tank and it got mpg in the 40s...I remember once the wiring harness fell into the fan and it wrapped around the fan pulling the harness thru the firewall and out of the dash! No lie! We just straightened it out and plugged everything back in and in a few hours it was good as new! It looked like someone removed it, except the wrapped up part!
Now these cars are untouchable. If one can be found they want huge dollars cause guys want them to drift with! I bought several of those used of course 150 to 350 if it was really nice....miss those days!
Forgot the point...late 90s maxima and infiniti i30s were the last decent cars Nissan made they went downhill quick...rusty floorboards! Cmon..thought that was over years ago..
I hate loosing a car to rust but I couldn't even Jack mine up at the end! Still ran fantastic, the 3 liter in 1998 was rated one of the top 10 motors made.
right there , when your stabbing the screwdriver into the hose fitting while holding it with your left hand, is when you slip ever so slightly and jam the screwdriver into your left index finger about 1/4 inch and everything comes to a stop...blood gushes out everywhere.
have you considered a yoga mat or foam floor mat tiles to put across engine bays whenever you have to lay on them to prevent yourself from being impaled by the pokey things
Ford Tech Maculoco uses old seat material to lay on. The leather cover part of the seat from an old truck.
I'd advise investing in a topside creeper.
That's what I was thinking. My knee pads and foam mats are among my favourite tools!
@@Strasedon topside creepers are worth every penny!!
I've been using an old baseball catchers chest protector for over 50 years for laying across engine bays or kneeling down jobs and even as a head rest working on the floor without enough height for a creeper. Super good comfort and even support over uneven surfaces under the hood.
Put the exhaust emission analyser probe in the funnel to sniff out any carbon monoxide if you suspect the head gasket. Nice videos Ray love watching.
I saw this from another mechanic. He used the expansion bottle. covered the lid for a few seconds then quickly placed the gas analyser in the port without touching the fluid. It instantly ramped up the count of hydrocarbons. The gas analyser is extremely sensitive so can pickup the smallest of head gasket leaks from the combustion side.
@@imprezaaudi That's the correct way to do it. The only time it doesn't work is when the leak is fresh and hasn't had enough time to contaminate the system.
When In was teching we used to do this all the time using the MOT exhaust sniffer. It was conclusive 100% of the time. Hot / cold made no difference, If the h/gasket came under suspicion, that was the first port of call. Saved so much diagnostic time. So many giggaties in this one but I had to say them for myself.
Not sure if the analyzers are that common in all Florida shops since there is no annual (luckily) emissions control? I imagine some have it but not all
@@AT-wl9yq The correct way is with a chemical tester on the radiator fillup.
You trust your electronics all you want but chemicals never lie.
Well this is a little mysterious so far . Car went in for a Cooling related problem and got a Radiator . Immediate Overheat again .
Now Ray has it . I suspect the previous shop was too quick to sign off on the Job . They too , should have noticed the Purging problem .
Some Engines can be difficult to " Burp " and there are sometimes bleeder valves fitted to assist that . I suspect a Warped Head .
i suspect who ever designs new cars has a very warped head.. new car every 2 yrs,,yeehh,, lets be green.. ai still got a 62 f100 4x4.. no lithium/cobolt child murderes here..
Ray!!!!
Can’t tell you how much your show has helped me!!
I don’t even work on cars. Managed to replace coils and plugs and , wait for it… install a new gasket on the intake manifold ( think that’s what it was). It was fricken plastic
That was a week ago no issues bro- fessor!!
Has the cooling fans kicked in? Possible temps sensor for the cooling fans is shot
Just an idea, never take the hose clamp off in the first place. Squeeze the clamp and work it down farther on the hose. It will be easier to move it into position once everything is in. Just a thought.
When I have one like the I’ll take and crush inside the hose an let the pieces fall out. Normally when they break they are extremely brittle and don’t take much to crush it
Exactly what I was telling Ray to do 🙂
Running an engine without the coolant pressure cap on will cause it to run hot. Fill, test drive, check again and top up as required.
FYI in the UK, the worm drive clips are known as "Jubilee" clips, from the company, Jubillee that makes them. The longest manufacturer of hose clips
I've heard you Brits call them Jubilee clamps before and didn't know why. Now I know. Learn something new every day. Cheers
Had a very similar situation once I used 0ring pliers to break the bond between the hose and plastic
Ray - two thoughts.
1. The sound of the lift going up in the background as you were installing the manual prop rod. The hood went up as the sound of the background lift went up.
2. Surprised you waited to long to swap out the clamps.
use the OE clamps if possible. They expand a little with the temperature and don't dig into the hose, unlike worm clamps which don't expand and dig into the hose.
The squeeze clamps do fatigue.
tips, you can use Jaw Locking Pliers on the hose to prevent broken parts to enter further down the hose, and blow it clean afterwards
You spent more time on the OEM Hose clamps than I would have. The new clamps would have been my go-to from the get go. The worm drive clamps are a life saver 75% of the time.
Baling wire and rustoleum. Same problem and same solution since hoses were leather.
As a mechanic myself, I've taught myself to remove hoses and make sure there's flow on both ends!
Its never easy, have a great day.
Smartest choice I made was buying a lexus over an Infiniti. Nissan has been really dropping the ball the last 20 years and it's super sad. The 1991 maxima my buddy had in highschool was so ahead of it's time and quick even by today's standards, and damn near bulletproof.
I learned to drive on a 91 maxima, and yeah they were bullet proof until the housing around the ECU cracked. Then you’d get random misfires and the trans would slip.
Also the oem clamps have already left a very solid impression on the rubber already, it would be best to reuse them and put them in the exact same position, using a standard wormdrive clamp can work but because of the impressions in the rubber it might not seal it flat, obv worked for you now but idk :/
A thought: squeeze the hose closed behind the broken piece with a long nose vise grip. Then break the plastic with pliers and pull or shake out the pieces. Clear out the hose before removing the vise grips Anything that works is the right way, though. Thanks.
I was thinking the same thing. Im all for destruction but if you break off plastic inside of a tube, there is no way of knowing if you just sent a piece of plastic down into the water pump to mess up the impeller.
Same... Use a hose clamp pliers up stream, crush the brittle plastic, remove pieces
That’s how we do it back at Infiniti actually. Take us like 10 minutes to fix it that way
just crush them and shake them out, if you're suspicious plastic is still in the system just fill with water to flush out. It should be the only opening in the system and flush out all plastic.
genius
I bought those hose clamp pliers last year lol. Thanks Ray!
yeh lol i remmber the video where ray was like "dont use those damn screw type clamps" and im like but wtf if u cant change a cooling hose onthe side of the road why do they use those damn squeeze clamps! those things are always a PITA! I knew no pliers would make them easier! its like a precision strength challenge at the worst time!
I use a piece of 4 inch foam pad when I’m leaning over the engine sure saved my chest an knees, great find on the broken heater hose
When I saw it was a tow in for over heat, I was pretty sure it was going to have a blown head gasket. That is unfortunate!😟
It really depends on how bad it overheated if they noticed it getting hot and shut off immediately it should be fine if they drove it until it stopped then yes toast
@@samholdsworth420 or it's a skim top and maybe bottom. Costly if it is. Fingers crossed for gasket but not hopeful. Might be cheaper to junk it if it. Who has $1-2k lying around.
The ford single piece moulded together heater lines from the early-mid 2000s are notorious for that. I usually cut them off and replace with clamps and barbs if I have to pull the hose. They don't like being moved.
tell me about it....
I'm continually amazed at how the engineers constantly make stuff so complicated. Good job Ray.
Would it be a good thing to replace all the hoses water pump and thermostat when replacing a radiator?
In my opinion, if you follow that thing you will have to swap all car. That's just what you get for owning "old" car, slowly everything breaks apart/wears out.
I just asked the same questions!
This engine was originally from a French van and got adapted to work in SUVs and sports cars, that's why
I have a pair of pliers that makes removing pieces of broken pipe fittings much easier. They were sold as Reverse Pliers and they have hooks pointing outward
To each their own indeed, Ray. I love those stupid hubcaps. I have no car to put them on, but man, do I want some of those. I can't explain it. It just speaks to me for some dumb reason.
I think I might be broken...
If you liked those wheels, there is definately something wrong with you!!!
Ray im sure this episode was much earlier what i do is squeeze the end of the hose and crush the hard plastic then dig it out if you worry about getting a piece of plastic where you can’t reach it put a vise grip on the hose and crush away.
I think that funnel is a great bit of kit. you can fill it way above the top of the motor possibly bleeding out all the air easier than usual.
For the stuck plastic in the hose: If you have a small hose-pick that fits in there with a U-shaped hook, you could have stuffed it in and pulled it "from behind" - at least that came to mind when I saw that.
Edit:
For the costs: Depends on why the new radiator was needed.
If it was smashed and the broken hose was already there, the shop should have seen that when testdriving it / filling it.
If the radiator was replaced "for overheating" the other shop should have seen it.
If the radiator was replaced because it was smashed and LATER the hose broke: shit happens - customer has to pay you.
You can make one too..
Crochet hook, or a rug hook, maybe?
Who pays? As sergeant Schultz said; "I see noth-ing."
if you ever have trouble putting a hose over a fitting ,, instead of a grease base spray, which will always stay slippery use brakleen spray it into hose and quickly slide pipe on.. it has always worked for me .. i am / was a heavy diesel mechanic until i crushed my foot last august
Looks like it was suppose to have a bleed /purge screw there and replaced originally with the incorrect part. Would have made purging the system a whole lot easier.
Nope that’s actually a common problem on the 3.5 and 3.7 from 08-2013 or so. Known to lose structural integrity after all those heat cycles, and eventually break. There’s an aftermarket replacement from Z1 that allows you to use that connector for bleeding tho.
The way I used to get the pices out was to clamp a few inches back on the pipe then use big pliers to crush the broke pipe inside and tip it out, works most times
I knew it was going to be a fun job. I was trying to see if it would have been easier to take the hose off. In the least I was surprised you took the clamps off rather than slide them further on the hose.
Difficult enough to hold that lower hose, without adding a clamp cutting into the hand. Maybe the upper hose could have kept the clamp. Either way, this was a knee breaking PIA... I am sure.
@@PastorSutton if it were easy, then anyone would do it.That's why we pay the professionals lol.
makes me evermore grateful I drive an older vehicle that you can literally climb into the engine compartment.
here is some 20/20 hindsight, could you have tried running a suitable bolt into the broken piece and then pulled on the bolt head?
or run a hooked hose pick in until it gets behind the broken bit.
My thought was to stick a hook in and hook it behind the inside of the plastic piece.
I have. Sprinkler tool that takes plastic out of pipe. I wonder if that would have worked.
Pinch the hose shut with vise grips and use an easy out screw extractor bit to remove the broken coupling
@@remyredert5670 and run risk of stabbing a hole into the hose, unless it's got a smooth tip and you're careful.
I believe you are right with the cylinder head gasket leak, i owned a BMW with a gasket leak and to get the air out of the water was very difficult.
Well, lets review: The bubbling stopped, so a blown gasket is unlikely. The upper and lower hoses were hot, so the thermostat seems to have opened. The waterpump seems active (similar temps on upper and lower hose). Did the fans kick in? Without fan(s), it will overheat while sitting/city driving. As it heats up, it pressurises the system and finds the weakest link.
I personally think it's not totally purged. I've seen some other comments saying this car has a purge bleeder. It does act like it's still got air in it. This is a tricky one. I'm anxious to see what it is.
I'm sure Ray will be checking the radiator fluid for exhaust gases using a chemical test kit
@@loneranger4175 it stopped bubbling. Very unlikely it's the head gasket.
@Nordish Kiel: " The waterpump seems active (similar temps on upper and lower hose)."
Actually, to me at least, that suggests the water pump ISN'T working. If it was and the fans were working correctly there'd be a big difference and if they weren't there'd still be a reasonable difference in temps between top and bottom hoses. It doesn't explain all the bubbling but it does suggest no circulation through the radiator. Actually I just realised that could also be a thermostat issue maybe except I'd still expect to see an even bigger difference.
@@lorditsprobingtime6668
Exactly. If you are dissipating zero heat at the radiator, something else is wrong. Ray never commented one way or the other if the fans came on, but I would guess they did or he would have mentioned it. Place your bets, head gasket, water pump, thermostat, blockage or fans? Waiting for part two.
Sprinkler riser removal tool is what came to mind when I saw the broken of piece.
Reminds me of something that happened to my 05 Lacrosse, plastic coupling going into side of the engine block blew out and dumped all the coolant while driving down the highway. Wish they would use more metal in cars than plastic, especially for the more important parts like the coolant system.
Yes.. manufacturers need to quit using plastic thermostat housings. I had one split on the highway before.
@@MrTrailerman2 Plastic is just fine, Peek for example super strong and expensive to. What they do they they are just making sure your car will fall apart, so that kind of plastic they decide to use. Then when you go to mechanic, most of them will mess-up your car even more and you shall start to think about buying the new car.
But there is hope. Nowadays 3dprinters are better and better so we can print our own plastic car parts :)
8:34 just a tip what I do is get a pair of multigrips or vice grips squeeze the hose to crush the plastic fitting inside, they will usually break up and that makes it easier to grab and pull out
That is supposed to be a bleeder valve for the system to be bled, and you have to elevate the nose 20 degrees to get the bubbles out the system. Unless to bleed it you will blow the head gasket . I hope you figure this out.
I'm not familiar with this car but I know some are a pain to purge. I didn't know if this had a bleeder or not. Some Honda and Acuras do.
@@Bryan-Hensley unnecessary. I delete it.
@@TheGuruStud sir, because the heater core is higher than the radiator you have to raise the nose of the car and purge the system. It's a bad design from infinity . That's what blows the heads on these cars . My wife has the FX 35 I found out the hard way. Good day sir.
the no spill funnel becomes the bleeder. every coolant system ive done with a car has always taken multiple heat cycles to properly flush, atleast 20-30
@@Weq5ter not on infinities with the 3.5,s check it out from the infinity website. You must elevate the nose as well. It will never bleed unless you follow these steps. Look at the dealer website for this vehicle and the fx35. Now you know
Have a great day, liquid sunshine 🌞 you gotta love .
Watching Ray is a great start to the day
My names Ray and I also love working on cars lol
I'm a grown man and you made me cry a little if anyone deserves right to have their own company it's you
I definitely would have vacuumed the bits of plastic out of that hose.
The small plastic pieces can and will plug up some of the radiators passageways.
Although I think this car has bigger issues.🥵
"Vanes".
@@raiderjohnthemadbomber8666 that’s the right word. 👍🏻
He left those in there on purpose to help scour the crud off the inside of the water jacket as they bounce around in they cooling system. No extra charge!
@@DavidSprings 😝
What a job! This is why I drive, a d will always drive, my trusty old Red Block Volvo, no matter how many miles it has. Right now that is about 387,000 and counting. Even the heater core/blower motor on the old 240 is easier than this!
thats what my sister drives.!!!!
When you are faced with this problem, the fastest and best way is to take a pair of channel locks and squeeze the hose, crushing the remaining fitting and then it will either fall out or you can slide it out with some needlenose pliers.
How is that the best way? Why not use hose pics and not break anything?
@@AT-wl9yq You can pick at it all day and not get anywhere. If you crush the already broken fitting and remove it with small pliers, it takes a total of 30 seconds and causes no damage. When you are on a schedule, stupid things like this can screw you up.
It took him 4 minutes to do this.
@@HueToobBlows No offense, but it wouldn't take me anywhere near 4 minutes to pick that out. But I have a really good set of pics that make this type of thing easier. Besides, why ruin the old part? As long as you can separate the hoses without breaking anything, they can be re-used.
To be fair, I should mention that I do heavy line work for Ford. I literally go through this every time I pull a motor. I'm sure it gives me a bit of an advantage because a day hardly goes by where I don't fool with these stupid hoses.
With a good set of pics, its not that hard once you get used to doing them. One other tool that works really well on small diameter hoses, is spark plug boot removal pliers. Quite often you can break the seal with one of those and not have to use pics.
@@AT-wl9yq you destroy nothing doing it my way. The "only" thing destroyed is the broken fitting.
I work on yachts. This is a common issue. I do this almost daily. The only thing broken or destroyed is the broken is the piece you need to remove. Try it, you'll be surprised at how fast and simple it is.
@@HueToobBlows There's no reason to get upset. You're allowed to do things however you wish. I can't. Most of the jobs I do are covered under warranty, and the manufacturer is very specific on what parts I can replace. Anything over that is examined very carefully. Everyone understands that you're going break things occasionally, or just have an odd issue. The problem is, there's hundreds of Ford techs, all doing the same job. If I stand out and keep breaking the same part, over and over, the dealer I work for will have a problem.
I didn't think to include this in my earlier posts, but maybe I should have. However, I wasn't making anything up. I've done so many of them, and with the tools I have, its just not an issue for me. That said, I don't think your way is wrong. Replacing an old, plastic part is not a bad idea. I was just saying its possible to do the job without breaking the part.
Another thing I didn't think to mention because I'm so used to the new norm, is getting parts. Any time I walk into parts, I have no idea if I'm going to get the part tomorrow, or in several months. I've had several cars sit for 2-3 months because we can't get fuel injector o rings. Its that bad.
Ray, Next time you run into this same problem, just use your angry pliers to crush the broken plastic barb, by wrapping the hose with a shop rag and then crush through the hose. The broken (and brittle) barb will then crumble apart inside, and you can then just lower the hose to flush out the pieces.
I’ve done this many times. It is very quick and efficient.
Love the videos. But my question is. Does anyone in Florida clean the leaves from their cowel covers?
Tony Messina: I am so glad you mentioned this about the leaves. It seems like every vehicle that enters Ray's shop has this issue. I really wish the first thing Ray would do when he "pops z hood " is vacuum the damn leaves. I guess it doesn't bother some people but it really messes with my OCD.
Only when you open the hood for something. It's a neverending battle in Florida.
Also, where would our favorite eight-eyed spider friends live while they wait for the chance to drop down from the visor while you're negotiating fast-moving traffic on I-275 before you get to the bridge into Tampa?
@@timglass6041 To me, It'd be like trying to eat a plate of food with chickens walking around on the table. lol
Well Ray just a little advice from an “Old School Shade Tree Mechanic” (I’m 66yrs young) Get yourself a king size pillow with a cover and lay it on top of the motor. I have in the past cracked a few ribs working on cars and trucks (I have a 4X4) and laying on top of the motor is an everyday type thing when working on them.
Two observations: 1. I think your clamp pliers are broken. They look to have a ratchet device that is inoperative. 2. What did Peter do with the money his mom gave him for singing lessons? Looking forward to part 2.....
knipex makes a much better and less janky clamp pliers.
that heater hose coupler is WELL KNOWN in nissan 3.5 and 3.7 for doing exactly what it did. and a true PITA to replace for your avg garage guy
I applaud your patience with these repairs. If I was in your place for this repair, within the first minute, a hammer would have been thrown, lots of f-bombs used, perhaps a bloody knuckle or two.
While driving home from work at 2am one night, steam suddenly started pouring out from under the hood. Found one heater hose had a plastic T coupling from the factory for coolant flushes that suddenly snapped. It broke just like the one here. Fortunately I had my tool box. I crushed the piece broken off in the hose with channel locks, then it pulled right out with needle nose pliers. Not having a new coupling on hand, I used a deep socket the same diameter as the broken coupling as a temporary coupling. That saved me until I could change it for a proper coupling the next day. I also had a jug of coolant in my truck. I always try to have some basics with me for events like this.
One thing to always keep in mind replacing parts is that the next weakest part of system will break once the weakest part is replaced.
You can buy cheap stick on carbon monoxide detector patches (Amazon) that change color when exposed to CO. Put one of those stickers on a flat piece of cardboard and put that over the mouth of the funnel. That will tell you if exhaust is getting into the coolant and making those bubbles. Thanks for the videos Ray, they are super educational for me.
“Here’s your problem - the rad cap is on upside down.” 🤣 I’ll bet you wind up your kids and rookies something rotten!
U can buy a tool at the hardware store that removes broken spigots from water heaters. It works great when those plastic joints break like that. It goes on the inside u twist it and it grips then u can pull it out.
*"The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago and the next best time is now"* I consider this to be best motivational quote I've heard in a very long time. But motivational quotes are useless if you don't practice what you preach*
You're right, that's why I invested into assets like cryptocurrency and some stocks
Crypto is the new Gold
I wanted to trade crypto but got discouraged by the fluctuations in price
I heard that his strategies are really good
@@annabelkatherine6441 Will I know about Mr Dave Jevans he's a good broker, and more his trading strategies are top notch
I don't know why you guys love those hose clamp pliers. I have a bunch of vise-grips with a hex 5mm female in the clamping adjustment screw. You put the pliers on the clamp tabs and then squeeze the clamp open with a hex t-handle, or whatever you prefer, on the forcing screw of the pliers. That way all the force is accomplished by the pliers and not your hands. To let the clamp go you just loosen the adjustment screw of the vise-grips, or snap the pliers open with the opening lever.