I recommend a hydraulic cable crimper, even inexpensive ones achieve good results just make sure it comes with real AWG dies not metric/AWG. Also torque those DC connections to 12ft/lbs. Thanks for the video.
Sorry your inverter let you down like that. I've seen instances where a threaded stud like the one that heated up, isn't quite threaded down to the contact surface. So, if your terminal lug isn't thicker than the un-threaded part of the stud and you don't have a washer on top of the lug, the nut can stop turning, against the un-threaded part of the stud, not properly clamping the lug and leaving you thinking the connection is tight, when it really isn't. There also could have been some damage or a manufacturing defect with the threads, that stopped the nut before it properly seated against the lug. Just a thought. I hope you have better luck with your new inverter. One other thing; I agree with your repairman. A crimped connection, when done correctly, is way more than adequate for your purpose. Also, there are "hammer strike" operated crimpers that are inexpensive, effective, and lots better than smashing the terminal with a hammer. And --- if you use a crimper, you'll get a flexible connection every time. Good luck: www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-Battery-Cable-Hammer-Crimper-Wire-Terminal-Welding-Lug-Crimping-Tool/281912922165?epid=2235249264&hash=item41a351d035:g:zL0AAOSwseZb2KWM
They make a paste to put on connections to insure good connections to prevent that from happening. The power line guys use it. Under ground mine companies use it.
Yes, local shop. Replacing the board would be simple, but the shop also connects to an oscilloscope and makes sure the unit did not have any additional failed components.....I cannot do that. Also, total cost was about the same as I would pay for the board retail.
constantly heating and cooling over the years causing it to loosen possibly? use lock tight and you should crimp and then solder. but always crimp. solder melts so low that a bad connection would loosen up the solder. Any proper electrician will tell you to crimp it.
I understand, and agree. The only thing I doubt is that the connections get hot enough to melt solder....If that happens, something has gone very wrong.
No..my main system (powers entire house) is 48V. I have a small 12V system that I made before going off grid. It only has a 1000W inverter and must use extension cords to power things.
I recommend a hydraulic cable crimper, even inexpensive ones achieve good results just make sure it comes with real AWG dies not metric/AWG. Also torque those DC connections to 12ft/lbs. Thanks for the video.
Sorry your inverter let you down like that. I've seen instances where a threaded stud like the one that heated up, isn't quite threaded down to the contact surface. So, if your terminal lug isn't thicker than the un-threaded part of the stud and you don't have a washer on top of the lug, the nut can stop turning, against the un-threaded part of the stud, not properly clamping the lug and leaving you thinking the connection is tight, when it really isn't. There also could have been some damage or a manufacturing defect with the threads, that stopped the nut before it properly seated against the lug. Just a thought. I hope you have better luck with your new inverter. One other thing; I agree with your repairman. A crimped connection, when done correctly, is way more than adequate for your purpose. Also, there are "hammer strike" operated crimpers that are inexpensive, effective, and lots better than smashing the terminal with a hammer. And --- if you use a crimper, you'll get a flexible connection every time. Good luck: www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-Battery-Cable-Hammer-Crimper-Wire-Terminal-Welding-Lug-Crimping-Tool/281912922165?epid=2235249264&hash=item41a351d035:g:zL0AAOSwseZb2KWM
They make a paste to put on connections to insure good connections to prevent that from happening. The power line guys use it. Under ground mine companies use it.
Yeh, I have looked into it, but it seems to only prevent corrosion...not sure if it would help, but I think I am going to try it.
@@gyoung7332 The manual actually specifies anti-seize to prevent the stainless from galling or stripping.
Did you have a local repair shop do the repair ? Do you think you could change the board yourself ?
Yes, local shop. Replacing the board would be simple, but the shop also connects to an oscilloscope and makes sure the unit did not have any additional failed components.....I cannot do that. Also, total cost was about the same as I would pay for the board retail.
constantly heating and cooling over the years causing it to loosen possibly? use lock tight and you should crimp and then solder. but always crimp. solder melts so low that a bad connection would loosen up the solder. Any proper electrician will tell you to crimp it.
I understand, and agree. The only thing I doubt is that the connections get hot enough to melt solder....If that happens, something has gone very wrong.
its a 12V system? that would imply huge currents to get the required watts... no wonder you get hot spots!
No..my main system (powers entire house) is 48V. I have a small 12V system that I made before going off grid. It only has a 1000W inverter and must use extension cords to power things.