Great footage! Rode North Shore first time in '1974. I thought Sunset Beach at 15'+ was crowded with about 20 surfers out! One morning back in the 80's I was the first to paddle out into huge Makaha. It did get crowded shortly thereafter but nowhere near what's happening today. Been a long time since my first stand up ride at Old Man's in 1958. I still get a few sessions in at 69 years old. Aloha.
I too ride Sunset back in the mid 70's. Ronnie Burns took me out, I got stuck in the channel, paddled against the current till Ronnie came and showed me the way in. Learned a lot that winter, including a few ambulance rides to the old Kahuku hospital for stitches. Don't remember the doctor's name, but he looked just like Alice Cooper, minus the eye makeup! Ahhh.... The good ole days. Aloha.
0:17 I like that view of all those tiny colored surfboards as the wave moves by them. Some of them abandoning their boards and diving through the wave face.
Waves can be dangerous enough by themselves. But with crowds like this, it is more dangerous. People paddling out as others start dropping in. Getting too crazy, then you add the Malibu mentallity if "my wave" and think of the types of fights you will have.
I agree with you Simon, risking death from stray boards or white water hold downs for what, the drop, ego driven macho behavior, not surfing for pleasure, give me clean makeable waves any-day but like everything overpopulation is detrimental.
Great footage! Rode North Shore first time in '1974. I thought Sunset Beach at 15'+ was crowded with about 20 surfers out! One morning back in the 80's I was the first to paddle out into huge Makaha. It did get crowded shortly thereafter but nowhere near what's happening today. Been a long time since my first stand up ride at Old Man's in 1958. I still get a few sessions in at 69 years old. Aloha.
Keep on truckin!
Love to read this
I too ride Sunset back in the mid 70's. Ronnie Burns took me out, I got stuck in the channel, paddled against the current till Ronnie came and showed me the way in. Learned a lot that winter, including a few ambulance rides to the old Kahuku hospital for stitches. Don't remember the doctor's name, but he looked just like Alice Cooper, minus the eye makeup! Ahhh.... The good ole days. Aloha.
0:17 I like that view of all those tiny colored surfboards as the wave moves by them. Some of them abandoning their boards and diving through the wave face.
Plenty of room for another 400 out there
HAAAA!
LOLOL!!!
Heroic surfers, everyone of them!
Two or three look like they actually know what they’re doing
Looks like a bunch of Flounders.
Great quality! What kind of camera, lens, and color grading lux did you use?
20年位前、入ってたチームの
某有名プロサーファーが言ってました。
人が少なければ乗れる。
人大杉。
Some absolute beasts out there. JonJon's last one was crazy big
Where may I warm up with Waimea Bay? The W in Waimea is for “warm up”
so many just straight-handing it
Cool surf but someone's got to bottom turn into the barrel
Waves can be dangerous enough by themselves. But with crowds like this, it is more dangerous. People paddling out as others start dropping in. Getting too crazy, then you add the Malibu mentallity if "my wave" and think of the types of fights you will have.
half those guys had no business being out there
WOW, does anybody WORK in Hawaii ???
When the GOAT gets snaked.
0:20 survival 😱
Seems it’s a lot more crowded than when I was there 98,99,00
Well, that looked like fun.
Helmet, wide stance and straight to the bottom. Waimea
ジョー君めっちゃ凄い！🌊🤙
Biggest waves, great Japanese surfers‼️
0:20見てるだけでゾッとする😱
ジョウ君ケリーからドロップイン
Commitment condensed to the max!
I agree with you Simon, risking death from stray boards or white water hold downs for what, the drop, ego driven macho behavior, not surfing for pleasure, give me clean makeable waves any-day but like everything overpopulation is detrimental.
John is a ledger
Watching a 4 second ride down a big closed wave with no action was incredibly boring!
Ufff,Next level 💜
Yikes, its become a zoo.
ジョー根性あるやん😆😆キングの前乗りするとは、、、。
Surfers aboandon their boards if they couldn't cross wave.
I've seen more turns in NASCAR
A lot of people and work just for a straight drop in 👎🏻
Ooooh shit.
what a shit show. i though surfing was supposed to be soulful. this is pure idiocy.