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@@realfixesrealfast MINES STUCK ! .... 4.0 ohv engine... made makeshift slide-hammer gizmo to give it hard pull up strikes (have cable noose around it) and it doesn't budge....any suggestions? Ever come across this ??
before pulling out synchronizer take chisel or punch an established center line point that touches both synchronizer and block in the same place. then transfer that to new synchronizer before reassembly
great video one thing that should be said is TDC on the compression stroke update after watching your follow up i understand more than i did previous to today and appreciate learning more from you than you'll ever know thank you very much for teaching me all of this new info =D
Great video Dwyane. I like where you take the extra time to illustrate installing the synchronizer in an engine with the upper components removed. Really helps out a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Good video. I used a 24mm socket to turn the engine to TDC mark. A plastic alignment cap came with my cam synchro. I inserted in just about the same position as the original. My original cam synchro was all mangled and destroyed inside the cap. The car ran that way for a couple years. Made a squeaking sound. I thought it was the water pump. My understanding is that the cam synchro doesn't control cylinder firing order, but synchronizes the fuel injectors to fire properly. I've read that the car can function with a failed cam synchro, but is very fuel inefficient and misfires.
thank you for the clear explanation. the history of how the synchronizer is simply an evolution of the distributor helped in my understanding of the subject.
Very well done, you explained this process very well. I personally know how to install one but no way I could've explained it any better. Good teacher. I notice you have multiple engines on stands, if you enjoy working on engines, your a lucky man.
I find the hard part is locating TDC on this 99 Ranger by counting back from the gap on the crank (where the engine crank sensor is reading engine position.) Some people say you should count back 5 "fingers" or "teeth" and others say count back 6 "teeth" for TDC on this engine. You can go though this whole process, but if you've located the engine on the wrong "teeth" at the crank sensor your Cam Synchronizer will be incorrect even if you've installed it perfect. It is still a good video :)
Very well done! You are an excellent teacher, you hit all the marks and made it very understandable and clear. I think I could do this in my sleep now lol .
Great great great. Most people were talking about how you just mark the old one on the motor. I had a new short block so I had to know how to do it properly. Perfect video, great job thanks!
I've tried and tried to understand this procedure, and just couldn't get it. This video was just what I needed. I finally get it! Great presentation. Thanks!
Great video. It cleared up the lousy instructions that came with my aftermarket synchronizer. I wish the engineers had not buried the darn thing so far behind the lower intake manifold. It wold not fit down in with the tool installed, so I have modified the tool a bit (chopped some off) so it will drop down in there.
You saved me a lot of stress and money sir thank you for your excellent video you described it the best out of a whole 2 days of looking into videos to try and solving this issue
Very well presented, explained, and much appreciated. I just did one today on a 2007 Taurus with a 3.0 Liter. To bring the engine to TDC on the Taurus with front wheel drive, I removed the passenger tire, and went behind the splash-guard to access the engine's damper pulley. I used a 21mm socket, with a 1/2-inch drive, and short extension to turn the engine to align the interrupter.
ArcolaBridge Good question. It is true that I could have been on the exhaust stroke; although, for the installation of the camshaft synchronizer, aligning the tab with the hall-effect opening is the goal. I simply turned the crank-pulley until the tab lined up with the opening on the housing. So really TDC on the compression stroke is not paramount for this procedure; rather, aligning the synchronizer for reference to install the new one.
Or Remove spark plugs Rotate engine to top dead center #1. Have a friend handy to hold finger in #1 spark plug hole. Use nylon tie in spark plug hole to find TDC Make sure the synchronizer tool fits on original still in engine so its indexed for removal Mark a reference point on block where the arrow points with the tool Remove old synchronizer Replace new synchronizer with it pointing at original reference mark on block It's that easy, did it in the college parking lot a couple years ago.
I have watched a few of these demonstrations on doing this on this engine. As usual your methods are extremely clear, you do not speed talk like most of the younger people, making it much easier to understand. Thank you. The picture you showed of the sensor body fully installed, saying to then bolt it down, seemed to still be about 3/16" of off the block. due to the oil pump drive not aligning, do you not have to turn, or crank the engine while pushing down on the synchronizer to seat it totally. This was the hard part when doing distributer installations. I only bring this up because I had to repair a car many years ago where another mechanic ruined the cam gear by trying to beat the distributer in with a hammer. Keep up you good work.
Speed talking isn't a youth thing, its usually geographic. BTW I'm 63. I'm from Fl, we have many people from other areas live here, on average native Floridians speak slower then do people from the N.E. , just saying.
Does the synch engage the oil pump drive before it makes contact with cam gear. The oil pump drive is a hex, so the synch will only drop every 30 degrees. so does it engage the oil pump drive first, then you can rotate synch and oil pump drive together until the correct synch gear tooth engages the cam gear? Having a hard time getting synch to fully seat. should i use washer and 10 mm bolt to drive it?
Thanks for the info. I have a 1995 Ford ranger 3.0L with a synchro. Will the connector line up with the direction the arrow is pointing? My engine was replaced and mine whistles when it is cold above 55 mph until the motor warms up. My connector probably points 15 degrees to the left of the engine looking at it from the rear with the connector pointing toward the engine not away from it. I think the installer did it incorrectly.
Finding the TDC in a windstar with 3.8 is very difficult because removing the spark plug at the #1 cylinder is a very time consuming process. Can the #5 cylinder be used to find the TDC in #1? Or any other cylinder in the front bank of the engine?
as the synchroniser body is not keyed into the engine block, why can you not rotate the synchroniser until the metal tab in the reluctor is in the home position? 15 degree alignment would be there for to make sure the wiring plug would reach the reluctor. am i missing something?
does it matter if you put it at TDC i don’t understand that part, if you roatate the engine until the alignment tool will go onto the sensor before you unbolt it and mark it then shouldn’t you just be able to put the tool on the new one and get it to align with your mark and then bolt it back down and be done
THANK you doug gyver for pointing out that it doesnt really matter where the housing of the cam synchronizer, i was wandering what the whole degree thing was really for if i already installed the synchronizer with the little tool and with the engine at TDC. anyway my scynchronizer only went on one way anyway.
Thank you for a good instructional video. I have 2000Mazda B2500SE 2.5L 4Cyl Manual Engine with 8 spark plugs. My question is does this year model truck have a camshaft synchronizer?
QUESTION: When you stabbed at the right angle at 9:47 the synchronizer wasn't fully squared with its housing. Same thing is happening with me. The old one fits flush. The new one, with the alignment tool, doesn't. If I put the alignment tool on the old synchronizer, same problem happen. Any thoughts? Is it ok to leave a little gap like you did?
wouldnt it also be just as easy to remove the old sensor cover, and place a mark on the intake and then pull the unit and use the mark to stab the new one? I use this techince on distributers and it works ther so why cant it work in this situation unless someone has already done it and screwed up the placement?
Great video and explaination. I have a 1998 For Ranger 3.0 that i had a p1309 code coming on right after my motor was rebuilt but never got it fixed because it was the only code and it was running fine but always kept my check engine light on. Lately i was getting other codes p0171 and p0174 and p1137 and p1131 and it's been running bad. I have checked fuel pressure with a gauge and its holding steady at 62psi. I had a plugged pcv valve and broke vacuum hose that i fixed and did a smoke test using a cigar and dont see any leaks. Ford dealer said probably the cam syncronizer was off just enough to cause the light and code to come on. I bought a new syncronizer and installed it at 75 degrees TDC using a gauge and screw driver and also the mark on the damper was exactly same as where i found TDC, Only problem is that my Hanes repair manual must be wrong because it is impossible to set the syncronizer at 75 degrees because when you do the sensor will not go on because the plug end sticks out too much and hits a place on the block not allowing you to place the sensor on correctly. so i have it set at about 50-60 so the sensor will go on and that is about the same position the old one was in and now i see why the engine place set it off a little. Do you know where i can get another spec on the correct setting. I am now getting the same codes and it idles with like a spark knock like the timing is off. Is it possible the timing chain was set wrong or jumped?
I have read so many different degrees for a ford 3.0L vulcan, it is mind boggling. I have read 10, 15, 50, 60, 75...its like no one really knows?!! If you want to start from scratch, just because, say the cam sync flag is no longer even there, or maybe the old one was put in wrong years ago, etc. You should have a reputable answer to what freaking degrees is correct, I still do not know what the correct is for my 2003 ford Ranger edge (V) 3.0L.
Two days ago, I had codes P0171, P0174, P0175, P1131, P1151 ---All related to the O2 sensors, so today, I had a shop replace all 3 O2 sensors, two upstream & one downstream. That did not help, still having same issue. So, that tells me that just because you get codes saying or pointing to bad O2 sensors, does NOT mean they are bad, just that they are reporting a lean mixture, etc. So, now I have went out and purchased the cam sensor, and the Motorcraft Cam synchronizer, and hoping that I can do it the correct way...ugh.
Need help putting in crankshaft sensor and housing my 2003 ford windstar is stalling less power and sqeeling noise from belt area ... take power steering pump off?? Help thanks can't get to work grrrrrrr
I have watched a lot of videos on here and I think ol man duane forgot more about wrenching than most young guys will ever know,and a great teacher too.
Awesome video . Th for all details because I took out without marking. Hopefully i didn't ruin anything trying to start. So back to TDC And well I had to tAke #3rod out to get intake off 3.0 so I better make sure that in right too . I just n Put back in like I took out . Do I have to turn motor to certain spot?? Seriously your video ROCKS
I sure would like to know how you got that synchronizer out without removing the lower intake manifold. Looks like mine is partially covered by the intake manifold. No way to hardly even get a wrench on it let alone get it out. Oh, my old beater (that I'm turning in to a flat bed) is a 99 Ford Ranger 4.0L OHV.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this on my 3.0. Lucky for me, it's on a stand right now, which should make it much easier. Now to figure out what position it's supposed to be in. Can I rotate it to TDC and remove the cam sensor and mark a line where it is?
Wow! You are very luck. 431000 miles!?. The best answer I can give you is that they last as long as they last, but the majority of the water pumps I've replaced are usually sometime after 100k. There are so many factors to take into account when it comes to parts longevity. Like, Is the part high quality/ Does the owner keep up with the maint/ and the list goes on. Apparently you've taken care of your Ford. Kudos.
I just marked where the pointer is. When I put the new one back in I made sure it lined up where the pointer was on the old one. And it worked. I didn't need that tool. That is way easier than a distributor
Because of the tight space between the engine and firewall what are the chances of getting a small protractor in there? Great video. I'd never even heard of a cam synchronizer before. Learned a lot thank you.
Correct me if I'm wrong....but can't you just mark where the current notch is at on old one before pulling out....then install new one with arrow pointing to marking of old one...pretty sure putting 'number 1' at TDC is just so if you mess up / having a more defined reference point....correct?? Of course with old school distributor you had to do it this way...but with electronic system doesn't the PCM have stored where everything was at last shutdown.....thus being able to line up at aforementioned way...
yea but the most common problem is that that eccentric gear on the oil pump gear wears out and you lose the frame of reference which is what happened which = junkyard.
I am in the process now of replacing my cam sync and sensor in my 2003 ford ranger edge (V) 3.0L. I find that researching this install on the internet gives me so many varied degrees that the cam sync is "supposed" to be at, it is sickening, actually. I have read 10 deg, 15, 50, 75, etc. Frustrating as hell when you WANT it to be EXACTLY correct, or very close to correct so you are not having to do it over again, etc. I have read to simply put new one in exactly in position of the old one, by marking the body of the old cam sync to the block, etc. I have read the metal flag thing in the cam sync should always be lined up in the center of the little window. I have read that the cam sensor can also get to where the magnet inside has broken off and created a "rock tumbler" like situation, where the metal tab on top of the cam sync get berated and worn away/ broken off by the cheap little magnet inside the cheap plastic cam sensor, making the process of "just mark the old one, etc. virtually impossible for sure. Also, it is rather confusing for the home mechanic to know, and find how to get your TDC correct when even the dang diagrams for the coil pack and firing order, etc. for the 2003 ranger edge 3.0L are sometimes backwards on a lot of websites, mis labeled, etc. !!! Aggravating as hell...
Thanks for all your great information. It would be much better if there was no music . I don't want to listen to music -just the facts which you are giving.
Авто/Мото
Sir, you are a true professional. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and years of experience. There are many viewers who really appreciate it.
+Freddy Brea Thank you Fred, I appreciate your saying so.
@@realfixesrealfast MINES STUCK ! .... 4.0 ohv engine... made makeshift slide-hammer gizmo to give it hard pull up strikes (have cable noose around it) and it doesn't budge....any suggestions? Ever come across this ??
before pulling out synchronizer take chisel or punch an established center line point that touches both synchronizer and block in the same place. then transfer that to new synchronizer before reassembly
great video one thing that should be said is TDC on the compression stroke
update after watching your follow up i understand more than i did previous to today and appreciate learning more from you than you'll ever know thank you very much for teaching me all of this new info =D
One of the best videos to follow I've seen. Thank you. You have the way of explaining things that even a if a medieval time traveler would understand.
Great video Dwyane. I like where you take the extra time to illustrate installing the synchronizer in an engine with the upper components removed. Really helps out a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Good video. I used a 24mm socket to turn the engine to TDC mark. A plastic alignment cap came with my cam synchro. I inserted in just about the same position as the original. My original cam synchro was all mangled and destroyed inside the cap. The car ran that way for a couple years. Made a squeaking sound. I thought it was the water pump. My understanding is that the cam synchro doesn't control cylinder firing order, but synchronizes the fuel injectors to fire properly. I've read that the car can function with a failed cam synchro, but is very fuel inefficient and misfires.
thank you for the clear explanation. the history of how the synchronizer is simply an evolution of the distributor helped in my understanding of the subject.
Very well done, you explained this process very well. I personally know how to install one but no way I could've explained it any better.
Good teacher.
I notice you have multiple engines on stands, if you enjoy working on engines, your a lucky man.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Very helpful, informative, and easy to understand.
I find the hard part is locating TDC on this 99 Ranger by counting back from the gap on the crank (where the engine crank sensor is reading engine position.) Some people say you should count back 5 "fingers" or "teeth" and others say count back 6 "teeth" for TDC on this engine. You can go though this whole process, but if you've located the engine on the wrong "teeth" at the crank sensor your Cam Synchronizer will be incorrect even if you've installed it perfect. It is still a good video :)
thank u very much i did it the way u explain it and my engine started in just 2 seconds perfectly well.u save me some money
Your a great teacher. I love how you use a lot of visual aids for us visual learners.
Very well done! You are an excellent teacher, you hit all the marks and made it very understandable and clear. I think I could do this in my sleep now lol .
Very well explained. Very professional. Great video on topic.
Absolutely the BEST how to video on RUclips.You sir made this look so easy a 10 year old could install a cam sync correctly!
Great job on the video- that worked out great that you had all those resources available for visual demonstration.
this is by far the best repair video i have ever seen thank you for sharing
Thanks, I appreciate your comments
Great great great. Most people were talking about how you just mark the old one on the motor. I had a new short block so I had to know how to do it properly. Perfect video, great job thanks!
I've tried and tried to understand this procedure, and just couldn't get it. This video was just what I needed. I finally get it! Great presentation. Thanks!
Thank you very much
that was a very good description on how to replace the synchronizer
I appreciate your work sir
Great video. It cleared up the lousy instructions that came with my aftermarket synchronizer. I wish the engineers had not buried the darn thing so far behind the lower intake manifold. It wold not fit down in with the tool installed, so I have modified the tool a bit (chopped some off) so it will drop down in there.
You saved me a lot of stress and money sir thank you for your excellent video you described it the best out of a whole 2 days of looking into videos to try and solving this issue
glad it helped, thanks for commenting
Awesome! This is the best video that explains everything in detail.
Another good video and I will compliment you on the super pro presentation.
is it possible for the synchronizer to leak a good amount of oil with the hold down bolt tight ? seems to be where im getting a pool off oil from
explained very clearly, thank you...
Very well presented, explained, and much appreciated. I just did one today on a 2007 Taurus with a 3.0 Liter. To bring the engine to TDC on the Taurus with front wheel drive, I removed the passenger tire, and went behind the splash-guard to access the engine's damper pulley. I used a 21mm socket, with a 1/2-inch drive, and short extension to turn the engine to align the interrupter.
How do you know what stroke you are on? how do you know you are on compression not exhaust?
ArcolaBridge
Good question. It is true that I could have been on the exhaust stroke; although, for the installation of the camshaft synchronizer, aligning the tab with the hall-effect opening is the goal. I simply turned the crank-pulley until the tab lined up with the opening on the housing.
So really TDC on the compression stroke is not paramount for this procedure; rather, aligning the synchronizer for reference to install the new one.
It's ok, your motor will just run backwards.
but how do you line up the crank at TDC? with the timming chain installed?
YOUR THE BEST TEACHER IN THE WORLD DUANE!
Or
Remove spark plugs
Rotate engine to top dead center #1. Have a friend handy to hold finger in #1 spark plug hole. Use nylon tie in spark plug hole to find TDC
Make sure the synchronizer tool fits on original still in engine so its indexed for removal
Mark a reference point on block where the arrow points with the tool
Remove old synchronizer
Replace new synchronizer with it pointing at original reference mark on block
It's that easy, did it in the college parking lot a couple years ago.
Outstanding video! Well Done Sir!
Thank you so much. Great video, great teaching technique, lots of knowledge.
100 thumbs up. Awesome teacher.
I have watched a few of these demonstrations on doing this on this engine. As usual your methods are extremely clear, you do not speed talk like most of the younger people, making it much easier to understand. Thank you. The picture you showed of the sensor body fully installed, saying to then bolt it down, seemed to still be about 3/16" of off the block. due to the oil pump drive not aligning, do you not have to turn, or crank the engine while pushing down on the synchronizer to seat it totally. This was the hard part when doing distributer installations. I only bring this up because I had to repair a car many years ago where another mechanic ruined the cam gear by trying to beat the distributer in with a hammer. Keep up you good work.
Speed talking isn't a youth thing, its usually geographic. BTW I'm 63. I'm from Fl, we have many people from other areas live here, on average native Floridians speak slower then do people from the N.E. , just saying.
Great video. Thank you!
Excellent info!! I am now smarter because of you.
Does the synch engage the oil pump drive before it makes contact with cam gear. The oil pump drive is a hex, so the synch will only drop every 30 degrees. so does it engage the oil pump drive first, then you can rotate synch and oil pump drive together until the correct synch gear tooth engages the cam gear?
Having a hard time getting synch to fully seat. should i use washer and 10 mm bolt to drive it?
Thank you for the video you are great professional
Excellent video.
Thank you for the video you are great professional. Question do I need to have piston number 1 up in dead position with this procedure synchronized.
Thanks for the info. I have a 1995 Ford ranger 3.0L with a synchro. Will the connector line up with the direction the arrow is pointing? My engine was replaced and mine whistles when it is cold above 55 mph until the motor warms up. My connector probably points 15 degrees to the left of the engine looking at it from the rear with the connector pointing toward the engine not away from it. I think the installer did it incorrectly.
very good explanation and video, thanks
How do you find Top Dead Center (TDC) to align the synchronizer at 15-degree?
Finding the TDC in a windstar with 3.8 is very difficult because removing the spark plug at the #1 cylinder is a very time consuming process. Can the #5 cylinder be used to find the TDC in #1? Or any other cylinder in the front bank of the engine?
Nice improvement over the last video showing this, real professional looking. ;-)
Can you pleace tell me which is the right tool for the synchronizer assembly for 2001 ford taurus 3. lt.I'm will be very thankyou
as the synchroniser body is not keyed into the engine block, why can you not rotate the synchroniser until the metal tab in the reluctor is in the home position?
15 degree alignment would be there for to make sure the wiring plug would reach the reluctor. am i missing something?
Great description. I've doing this on a 99 3.0l Ranger and yes the service lit is confusing. 38 degrees for 3.0L.
need to buy a kit? can't hold the synchronizer in place during installation? thanks for the video
Great video
does it matter if you put it at TDC i don’t understand that part, if you roatate the engine until the alignment tool will go onto the sensor before you unbolt it and mark it then shouldn’t you just be able to put the tool on the new one and get it to align with your mark and then bolt it back down and be done
THANK you doug gyver for pointing out that it doesnt really matter where the housing of the cam synchronizer, i was wandering what the whole degree thing was really for if i already installed the synchronizer with the little tool and with the engine at TDC. anyway my scynchronizer only went on one way anyway.
Great video thank you
This is very helpful. Cheers.
Thank you for a good instructional video. I have 2000Mazda B2500SE 2.5L 4Cyl Manual Engine with 8 spark plugs. My question is does this year model truck have a camshaft synchronizer?
thank you excellent vid!
is this a 4.0l SOHC or OHV? i though in 1998 they started using the SOHC
What degree would you set it on a 2001 ford mustang 3.8L v6? Really could us some help
you are a master mechanic and a great teacher and i'm your humble student can't thank you
enough
outstanding class
GREAT VIDEO TANKS
QUESTION: When you stabbed at the right angle at 9:47 the synchronizer wasn't fully squared with its housing. Same thing is happening with me. The old one fits flush. The new one, with the alignment tool, doesn't. If I put the alignment tool on the old synchronizer, same problem happen. Any thoughts? Is it ok to leave a little gap like you did?
wouldnt it also be just as easy to remove the old sensor cover, and place a mark on the intake and then pull the unit and use the mark to stab the new one? I use this techince on distributers and it works ther so why cant it work in this situation unless someone has already done it and screwed up the placement?
Great job.
mine is 15° towards the drivers side, will that affect something ?
I have a 2002 sable. i put the engine on tdc to install sychronizer and now no crank no start. any ideas thank you
Great video and explaination. I have a 1998 For Ranger 3.0 that i had a p1309 code coming on right after my motor was rebuilt but never got it fixed because it was the only code and it was running fine but always kept my check engine light on. Lately i was getting other codes p0171 and p0174 and p1137 and p1131 and it's been running bad. I have checked fuel pressure with a gauge and its holding steady at 62psi. I had a plugged pcv valve and broke vacuum hose that i fixed and did a smoke test using a cigar and dont see any leaks. Ford dealer said probably the cam syncronizer was off just enough to cause the light and code to come on. I bought a new syncronizer and installed it at 75 degrees TDC using a gauge and screw driver and also the mark on the damper was exactly same as where i found TDC, Only problem is that my Hanes repair manual must be wrong because it is impossible to set the syncronizer at 75 degrees because when you do the sensor will not go on because the plug end sticks out too much and hits a place on the block not allowing you to place the sensor on correctly. so i have it set at about 50-60 so the sensor will go on and that is about the same position the old one was in and now i see why the engine place set it off a little. Do you know where i can get another spec on the correct setting. I am now getting the same codes and it idles with like a spark knock like the timing is off. Is it possible the timing chain was set wrong or jumped?
I have read so many different degrees for a ford 3.0L vulcan, it is mind boggling. I have read 10, 15, 50, 60, 75...its like no one really knows?!! If you want to start from scratch, just because, say the cam sync flag is no longer even there, or maybe the old one was put in wrong years ago, etc. You should have a reputable answer to what freaking degrees is correct, I still do not know what the correct is for my 2003 ford Ranger edge (V) 3.0L.
Two days ago, I had codes P0171, P0174, P0175, P1131, P1151 ---All related to the O2 sensors, so today, I had a shop replace all 3 O2 sensors, two upstream & one downstream. That did not help, still having same issue. So, that tells me that just because you get codes saying or pointing to bad O2 sensors, does NOT mean they are bad, just that they are reporting a lean mixture, etc. So, now I have went out and purchased the cam sensor, and the Motorcraft Cam synchronizer, and hoping that I can do it the correct way...ugh.
Need help putting in crankshaft sensor and housing my 2003 ford windstar is stalling less power and sqeeling noise from belt area ... take power steering pump off?? Help thanks can't get to work grrrrrrr
I have watched a lot of videos on here and I think ol man duane forgot more about wrenching than most young guys will ever know,and a great teacher too.
That's because old knowledge was superseded by mo-better, insuperable life hacks.
Excellent. Now I get the it.
Very good excelente!
Awesome video . Th for all details because I took out without marking. Hopefully i didn't ruin anything trying to start. So back to TDC And well I had to tAke #3rod out to get intake off 3.0 so I better make sure that in right too . I just n
Put back in like I took out . Do I have to turn motor to certain spot?? Seriously your video ROCKS
Good video
awesome thanx!
good teacher
I saved this one. Great! Send others. Thanks
Good video Duane, my question is where did you get that synchronization tool kit and how much please let me know asap. Thanks.
maestro disculpe la molestia esto que enseña en su video me sirve para una ford windstar 95 v6 3.8 por favor es pero su respuesta
good vid thanks
you can get the syncro and tool kit at oreilly auto parts, I just ordered both for 44 bucks and they'll be in tomorrow.
I sure would like to know how you got that synchronizer out without removing the lower intake manifold. Looks like mine is partially covered by the intake manifold. No way to hardly even get a wrench on it let alone get it out. Oh, my old beater (that I'm turning in to a flat bed) is a 99 Ford Ranger 4.0L OHV.
hoo waoo: excelente explicación incluso para alguien que no domina muy bien el idioma
thank you
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this on my 3.0. Lucky for me, it's on a stand right now, which should make it much easier. Now to figure out what position it's supposed to be in. Can I rotate it to TDC and remove the cam sensor and mark a line where it is?
Yes, that will work
Glad my 98 Ford e250 has the 4.2 l V6 Essex engine and the cam sync is by the water outlet and heater bypass and EGR
Wow! You are very luck. 431000 miles!?. The best answer I can give you is that they last as long as they last, but the majority of the water pumps I've replaced are usually sometime after 100k. There are so many factors to take into account when it comes to parts longevity. Like, Is the part high quality/ Does the owner keep up with the maint/ and the list goes on. Apparently you've taken care of your Ford. Kudos.
I just marked where the pointer is. When I put the new one back in I made sure it lined up where the pointer was on the old one. And it worked. I didn't need that tool. That is way easier than a distributor
you are correct however some people remove it and without noting where it was installed. This is for them.
It looks like the 15° location matches up to the "hold down" bolt location.
all i gotta say is... thank u so much.
good vid
GRACIAS
Because of the tight space between the engine and firewall what are the chances of getting a small protractor in there? Great video. I'd never even heard of a cam synchronizer before. Learned a lot thank you.
Correct me if I'm wrong....but can't you just mark where the current notch is at on old one before pulling out....then install new one with arrow pointing to marking of old one...pretty sure putting 'number 1' at TDC is just so if you mess up / having a more defined reference point....correct?? Of course with old school distributor you had to do it this way...but with electronic system doesn't the PCM have stored where everything was at last shutdown.....thus being able to line up at aforementioned way...
Barry you are correct. However many don't think or work that way. They remove it and then don't know how to reinstall it.
.How do you get the #1 cylinder to TDC on a 2004 taurus v6? The spark plug holes are sideways and #1 cylinder is between the fire wall and block.
Align the camshaft synchronizer tab with the Hall-effect cutout..
yea but the most common problem is that that eccentric gear on the oil pump gear wears out and you lose the frame of reference which is what happened which = junkyard.
i would suggest watching the follow up video to this one love this guys videos =D
Can you make a video of the best way to find TDC?
where can i find this camshaft synchronizer in a 2003 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6. Please help!
Ray Martinez you don't have one
I am in the process now of replacing my cam sync and sensor in my 2003 ford ranger edge (V) 3.0L. I find that researching this install on the internet gives me so many varied degrees that the cam sync is "supposed" to be at, it is sickening, actually. I have read 10 deg, 15, 50, 75, etc. Frustrating as hell when you WANT it to be EXACTLY correct, or very close to correct so you are not having to do it over again, etc. I have read to simply put new one in exactly in position of the old one, by marking the body of the old cam sync to the block, etc. I have read the metal flag thing in the cam sync should always be lined up in the center of the little window. I have read that the cam sensor can also get to where the magnet inside has broken off and created a "rock tumbler" like situation, where the metal tab on top of the cam sync get berated and worn away/ broken off by the cheap little magnet inside the cheap plastic cam sensor, making the process of "just mark the old one, etc. virtually impossible for sure. Also, it is rather confusing for the home mechanic to know, and find how to get your TDC correct when even the dang diagrams for the coil pack and firing order, etc. for the 2003 ranger edge 3.0L are sometimes backwards on a lot of websites, mis labeled, etc. !!! Aggravating as hell...
I cant find my either 2002 4.0
Looks like you're hold down bolt is the mark for the cam synchronizer
So no lining it up with number 1 cylinder then?
Thanks for all your great information. It would be much better if there was no music . I don't want to listen to music -just the facts which you are giving.
Hi, when the sensor is bad it could cause a no injectors pulse condition?
BTW amazing video!