Hey Oli. Nice to see your renewed enthusiasm. Glad you are cracking on with the stove, it will make it feel really cosy. When I did mine, I cut out the wood floor and put breeze blocks down on the base plate. Then tiled over those with slate. Get the good quality flexible adhesive. I also put the slate tiles straight onto the cal-cil primed with pva and never had any problems with it (glad you figured out the easy way to cut that sort of board). Don't forget - all you need is a jig saw and a little patience for the flue hole - saves getting hot metal grinds in your paintwork. Hope to see more of the cat!
The fireplace looks good. I would use the fire board all the way up the wall as I'd rather be safe than sorry. I like the idea of black tiles with grey grout that somebody else suggested I think your cat was having a look in the bathroom to see where the litter tray will go 😅. On my first boat the bathroom had a standard hinged door, not a sliding door. The bathroom was small and the door was a nuisance. In the end I got rid of it. To me a sliding door makes more sense, but I'm not the one who will have to live with it As for progress, the thinking and planning is as important as the doing!
Coming along nicely now. I used a low profile pumped shower waste from Heat and plumb. Around £15. It has a 19mm push fit JG style so you can pipe the first bit in poly then if you warm the 19mm re-enforced hose it is a good tight fit over it, secured with a couple of stainless jubilee clips. The install instructions on shower wastes usually tells you not to use any silicone on the seals, ignore that with a composite shower tray, use just a bit.😂 Your hearth looks fine, better than most I have seen. The front edge might benefit from a small upstand rather than extending. That will stop bits of ember rolling onto your new rug/ flooring.
Suggest that you rebuild the bathroom wall in the position where the door currently is and hang the door outside the bathroom so that you always have access to the fittings.
Hello Oli, sorry for the delaying in commenting but I've been in Canada in a motorhome on holiday. The boat and the hearth in particular are looking great. How about dark grey tiles with a lighter grey grout, I think sometimes black tiles can be a little harsh and the fire will stand out against a lighter backdrop, I feel against black tiles it will all 'disappear', just my opinion. The bathroom is feeling quite spacious, looking forward to seeing it come together. Best wishes Christine x
i'd hate to see you lose the pocket door. i love pocket doors, but have never met one that remained unbroken its entire life. for that reason, the pocket-door section of the exterior bathroom wall should be re-made now so that it is fully or partially removable in future. as you pointed out, there will be zero access from the shower side later on. so yeah, there are plenty of ways to do this and still make that pocket-door wall rigid enough to do its job as a bathroom wall. think of a Dutch barge's wheel house... piano hinges and a series of latches make its "walls" foldable/modular as well as strong when put back in place. just a thought. also, if you plan to keep the pocket door and a removable wall is too daunting, at least take time now to build small 15x30cm hatches at top and bottom to be able to later work on both the upper and lower slider mechanisms inside the wall. upper and lower hatches in the passageway that are just big enough to get your hands in with some tools will do you a treat down the road. luckily your interior frame is a series of horizontal wood beams that would allow a quick retrofit of hatches above and below. if you do hatches, you could make hinged doors for them. also you'll want to cut the silver, bubble-insulation on three sides (not four) so that it stays connected to the rest as a flap that can be clamped out of the way during slider maintenance. anyway, a fully removable wall would be ideal but small maintenance hatches might to the trick. even just to grease the sliders after every 5,000 uses. as you might recall from our previous conversations, i have been a homebuilder and tradesman for many decades. so i know all too well the pain of redoing things like this. i am only making the suggestion because i also know that not redoing it now will cause twice the pain later... when every surface in the boat is covered with trim, tile and other finishes. the build is looking great btw. great idea on the using the old fly-tipped cassette toilet to size up the layout. brilliant!
Next, is it possible to make the side of the door (door panel) towards the shower water proof, and the existing wall behind it water proof, so that you would not need to have the extra wall?
Your Harth for fire should be 300mm past the front of log burner for safety regulations. To catch any bit falling when opening door. Also your chimney pipe will get hot so have you got to board wall were flue is.
According to who? The numbers I have is 225 mm in front OR a high lip. And it’ll have a double flue, insulated between the layers, but Yh I was thinking of using up the rest of the cement board and tiling the upper wall. Thanks for the feedback 👍
You are scoring & snapping the tile board wrong. You are making it a little too hard. My father-in-law was a tile setter. The way he taught me was, score it, going over it with the Stanley utility knife (or equivalent) at least 3 times. Pick the board up, with an edge on the floor, so that the score mark is vertical. Then, from the un-scored side, bend it towards you. He would use his knee at the area opposite the score line. The tile board should fold, and then use the knife to finish the cut. Makes a rather clean break. Basically the same way you would cut Drywall (sheet-rock?). And less other stuff needed to do the job. Oh yea, the boat is starting to look really nice. Good work!!!!
Hey Oli. Nice to see your renewed enthusiasm. Glad you are cracking on with the stove, it will make it feel really cosy. When I did mine, I cut out the wood floor and put breeze blocks down on the base plate. Then tiled over those with slate. Get the good quality flexible adhesive. I also put the slate tiles straight onto the cal-cil primed with pva and never had any problems with it (glad you figured out the easy way to cut that sort of board). Don't forget - all you need is a jig saw and a little patience for the flue hole - saves getting hot metal grinds in your paintwork. Hope to see more of the cat!
Very good video and little more done 👍👍👍👍👍👍🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴
Looking great Oli. Space to the side of the shower could have shelves for towels and chemicals for toilet etc
Exactly what I was thinking 😉
The fireplace looks good. I would use the fire board all the way up the wall as I'd rather be safe than sorry. I like the idea of black tiles with grey grout that somebody else suggested
I think your cat was having a look in the bathroom to see where the litter tray will go 😅. On my first boat the bathroom had a standard hinged door, not a sliding door. The bathroom was small and the door was a nuisance. In the end I got rid of it. To me a sliding door makes more sense, but I'm not the one who will have to live with it
As for progress, the thinking and planning is as important as the doing!
Coming along nicely now. I used a low profile pumped shower waste from Heat and plumb. Around £15. It has a 19mm push fit JG style so you can pipe the first bit in poly then if you warm the 19mm re-enforced hose it is a good tight fit over it, secured with a couple of stainless jubilee clips. The install instructions on shower wastes usually tells you not to use any silicone on the seals, ignore that with a composite shower tray, use just a bit.😂
Your hearth looks fine, better than most I have seen. The front edge might benefit from a small upstand rather than extending. That will stop bits of ember rolling onto your new rug/ flooring.
Yep, had planned to put lip n the hearth, I was thinking metal, but now I’m leaning toward marble. Thanks for the suggestions 👍
Suggest that you rebuild the bathroom wall in the position where the door currently is and hang the door outside the bathroom so that you always have access to the fittings.
Yh you got me thinking…
Hello Oli, sorry for the delaying in commenting but I've been in Canada in a motorhome on holiday. The boat and the hearth in particular are looking great. How about dark grey tiles with a lighter grey grout, I think sometimes black tiles can be a little harsh and the fire will stand out against a lighter backdrop, I feel against black tiles it will all 'disappear', just my opinion. The bathroom is feeling quite spacious, looking forward to seeing it come together. Best wishes Christine x
I agree with Julie, black tiles with grey grout 😊
i'd hate to see you lose the pocket door. i love pocket doors, but have never met one that remained unbroken its entire life. for that reason, the pocket-door section of the exterior bathroom wall should be re-made now so that it is fully or partially removable in future. as you pointed out, there will be zero access from the shower side later on. so yeah, there are plenty of ways to do this and still make that pocket-door wall rigid enough to do its job as a bathroom wall. think of a Dutch barge's wheel house... piano hinges and a series of latches make its "walls" foldable/modular as well as strong when put back in place. just a thought. also, if you plan to keep the pocket door and a removable wall is too daunting, at least take time now to build small 15x30cm hatches at top and bottom to be able to later work on both the upper and lower slider mechanisms inside the wall. upper and lower hatches in the passageway that are just big enough to get your hands in with some tools will do you a treat down the road. luckily your interior frame is a series of horizontal wood beams that would allow a quick retrofit of hatches above and below. if you do hatches, you could make hinged doors for them. also you'll want to cut the silver, bubble-insulation on three sides (not four) so that it stays connected to the rest as a flap that can be clamped out of the way during slider maintenance. anyway, a fully removable wall would be ideal but small maintenance hatches might to the trick. even just to grease the sliders after every 5,000 uses. as you might recall from our previous conversations, i have been a homebuilder and tradesman for many decades. so i know all too well the pain of redoing things like this. i am only making the suggestion because i also know that not redoing it now will cause twice the pain later... when every surface in the boat is covered with trim, tile and other finishes. the build is looking great btw. great idea on the using the old fly-tipped cassette toilet to size up the layout. brilliant!
Black tiles with grey grout.
@@juliedouglas2888 I like that, thanks for the suggestion 👍
Next, is it possible to make the side of the door (door panel) towards the shower water proof, and the existing wall behind it water proof, so that you would not need to have the extra wall?
Great Video , But sorry I don't like the sliding door.
@@davidcook380 I’m starting to not like it either, it’s very fiddly
Your Harth for fire should be 300mm past the front of log burner for safety regulations. To catch any bit falling when opening door. Also your chimney pipe will get hot so have you got to board wall were flue is.
According to who? The numbers I have is 225 mm in front OR a high lip. And it’ll have a double flue, insulated between the layers, but Yh I was thinking of using up the rest of the cement board and tiling the upper wall. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Is there enough room in the corridor to pull out the toilet cassette ?
The math yes, but I’d like to see it with my own eyes
I got silicate boards from a bloke on marketplace 15 quid each, try shopping around.
I never think to look on Facebook, haven’t been on there in years, I only started using eBay and email in the pandemic lol good shout tho 👍
do your cutting out side? really nasty stuff that dust
You are scoring & snapping the tile board wrong. You are making it a little too hard. My father-in-law was a tile setter. The way he taught me was, score it, going over it with the Stanley utility knife (or equivalent) at least 3 times. Pick the board up, with an edge on the floor, so that the score mark is vertical. Then, from the un-scored side, bend it towards you. He would use his knee at the area opposite the score line. The tile board should fold, and then use the knife to finish the cut. Makes a rather clean break. Basically the same way you would cut Drywall (sheet-rock?). And less other stuff needed to do the job.
Oh yea, the boat is starting to look really nice. Good work!!!!
Cutting silica board with a power saw and taking your mask off straight after wasn’t your best idea mate…that’s really nasty stuff🤦
Yes, I live and learn, won’t be doing that again in a hurry. Thanks for the concern 👍
Lee and Ali told me about your cat ah ah ah
Yh, very lucky, quite stupid. I fully expect to be mocked relentlessly now that we have a happy ending. Thanks for commenting 😉