I just discovered your channel looking at the new reissue Rogers. I used to be a professional woodworker and more specifically, a casket maker. I like your sense of adventure and exploring different methods to modify drum shells. I do not want to come across as a know it all , I am just passing my knowledge along. Having said that I want to keep you safe. Make yourself a higher fence “wall” the more surface area your drum shell rests against, the more safe and accurate your cut will be. Just make a u- shaped channel that fits over your fence rail with the saw side being at least 12” high. I was trying to get a handle on your saw table and I realized you have no table slot to the left of you blade. My saw has a feather board which rides in the slot and rests against the edge of my workpiece as it enters the saw blade itself. That keeps the pressure against the work piece and these mods will produce a very accurate cut with a considerable improvement in safety. Both mods can readily be found on RUclips. I am not a fan of aluminum tables however it may be a bit of a challenge finding a cast iron table saw down there. Having zero vibration is a very noticeable change and it just feels solid when shoving panels through the saw. Even an old Sears craftsman saw will work. Continued success in your business and I will be combing through your existing videos.
Thanks Brian, appreciate the thoughts. I have a German cast iron sliding saw bench, but as you identified, I'm trying to use non professional gear and tricks to help others do their own work, but safety is essential. It's part why I don't edit out the stuff ups and instead show why it's not the best way to do something, or what would be better. I may do a film later that show the pro gear and all the custom jigs, but it really "expertises" drum making and repairs and I'm trying to put the skills back into the hands of those willing to adventure down these tracks. Really appreciate your comment and care. Thanks mate, Tony.
Amazing video and with the gear you have in your shop to work with you did a fantastic job, gave me some cool thoughts on what I should try myself, Thanks!
Your skill level confirms to me that I don't possess the skillset to duplicate your fine work. Should I ever need something like this don; it'd you be someone like you that'd receive the commission.
Curious about the air vents. I own a Pearl BRX (7.5 mm Birch shell without reinforcement rings) with 10x10 and 12x10 toms. Though it sounds great I prefer shallower for positioning. Pearl places the air vents in the middle of each tom. How are they positioned /visible on these Pearl MMX toms?
Hey mate, I can't remember exactly what vents I put on those toms, however if not asked to do a factory, I use my own venting system on everting I touch. I call it "volume ratio tri-venting". Simply the vents are three equally placed holes that vary in vent diameter as the volume inside a drum and size increases . Holes are best at top, about 20mm from the BE. The diameter is exact and makes heaps difference when exactly right. Hope this helps - Tony.
Hey Russell, thanks for the comment. I'm not a fan of tite bond (pva glue) for drum making or repairs. Instead I use epoxy, but also use feeler gauges and/or an air blower to push the epoxy way down, some times a syringe and needle; but generally epoxy is the only way and always natural cure. Kind regards tony
Not a fan of your shop equipment, you may be getting decent results, but would not be impressed if it were my beloved drums. Ever heard of a router table? I almost passed out watching you cut the rrings off on a tablesaw with a crappy blade and no holding fixture to remain true. Good on you though, seems as though you are trusted in your domain and yes the job is done.
Still... those Pearl Custom kits with re-rings are hard to come by, also the best shell Pearl ever made. If I were the owner of those drums and seen this video I’d be pissed!
the polymat 797 adhesive worked great on the Delmar wrap! As well I just purchased another Premier floor tom . Upon opening a bit of mold discovered . Treated with hydrogen peroxide. The following day used Bar Keeper's friend and white vinegar into a paste applied with paint brush left on 15 minutes then taken off with more vinegar dried with paper towel . 8 hours later another vinegar damp paper towel and it is good as new . Considering your Penetrol fdle4 next especially on the bearing edges and more to deter a mold build up in the future
Hey mate, I use two products. 1. Penetrol oil, which is the best thing for this, also great for chrome as well. www.ppgpaints.com/products/specialty/flood-penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive 2. High grade Paraffin wax: first rubbed on, then using a small cotton piece of cloth rubbing back and forth and around the bearing edge to heat up the wax and coat the edge. This alone, causes the heads to float when played and increases the perception of sustain, because it removes traction of the head on the bearing edge. As such paraffin wax alone improve your drums tone. A great bearing edge brings the best out of your shells and heads. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin_wax Hope this helps. Kind regards Tony
one of his videos said it was penetrol ... Apparently it is a wood sealer waterproofing element not just an additive to oil paint . Wonder if there is a special formula or if it is only one type product. Also was interested in his statement about Premier nailing in there beechwood rings instead of glueing also if that were the case were the 45 degree edges already filed as well ? Perhaps they were one piece perfectly fitted no need to bang them into place.
@@KillerDrumsTV I got to thinking that penetrol might be good on the whole inner shell .... this one particular Premier is only 1/8" thick while all the others are 1/4" thick hence the beech re ring add ons . Also considering adding a double sided 3M tape to beef up the fundamental tone too match the other thicker shells. should it be applied to the whole inner shell or just the rings
Yes! I use Penetrol on inside, outside (timber shells) and also it is a metal sealer. People think that metal is non porous, but it is porous and so penetrol seals and protects metal too. I have vintage drums that I penetrol decades ago, and still look great. You can built up coats after dry and use it as a shell finish. It’s seriously the best product around.
Thank you for this channel, the videos about drum restoring, modification etc. are priceless...so much to learn...keep on!!
Thanks mate. We have been busy filming more. Share them with your mates.
I just discovered your channel looking at the new reissue Rogers. I used to be a professional woodworker and more specifically, a casket maker. I like your sense of adventure and exploring different methods to modify drum shells. I do not want to come across as a know it all , I am just passing my knowledge along. Having said that I want to keep you safe. Make yourself a higher fence “wall” the more surface area your drum shell rests against, the more safe and accurate your cut will be. Just make a u- shaped channel that fits over your fence rail with the saw side being at least 12” high.
I was trying to get a handle on your saw table and I realized you have no table slot to the left of you blade. My saw has a feather board which rides in the slot and rests against the edge of my workpiece as it enters the saw blade itself. That keeps the pressure against the work piece and these mods will produce a very accurate cut with a considerable improvement in safety. Both mods can readily be found on RUclips.
I am not a fan of aluminum tables however it may be a bit of a challenge finding a cast iron table saw down there. Having zero vibration is a very noticeable change and it just feels solid when shoving panels through the saw. Even an old Sears craftsman saw will work. Continued success in your business and I will be combing through your existing videos.
Thanks Brian, appreciate the thoughts. I have a German cast iron sliding saw bench, but as you identified, I'm trying to use non professional gear and tricks to help others do their own work, but safety is essential. It's part why I don't edit out the stuff ups and instead show why it's not the best way to do something, or what would be better. I may do a film later that show the pro gear and all the custom jigs, but it really "expertises" drum making and repairs and I'm trying to put the skills back into the hands of those willing to adventure down these tracks. Really appreciate your comment and care. Thanks mate, Tony.
Amazing video and with the gear you have in your shop to work with you did a fantastic job, gave me some cool thoughts on what I should try myself, Thanks!
Thanks Andre, I appreciate your comment. Kind regards Tony
Your skill level confirms to me that I don't possess the skillset to duplicate your fine work. Should I ever need something like this don; it'd you be someone like you that'd receive the commission.
Thanks mate.
Wow, that was truly awesome. Well done!
Thank you very much! Glad you liked it.
Curious about the air vents.
I own a Pearl BRX (7.5 mm Birch shell without reinforcement rings) with 10x10 and 12x10 toms. Though it sounds great I prefer shallower for positioning.
Pearl places the air vents in the middle of each tom.
How are they positioned /visible on these Pearl MMX toms?
Hey mate, I can't remember exactly what vents I put on those toms, however if not asked to do a factory, I use my own venting system on everting I touch. I call it "volume ratio tri-venting". Simply the vents are three equally placed holes that vary in vent diameter as the volume inside a drum and size increases . Holes are best at top, about 20mm from the BE. The diameter is exact and makes heaps difference when exactly right. Hope this helps - Tony.
Good job.
Thanks mate.
Great video. Lots of good info and tips!
Thanks mate, we are busy making some more ATM. Blessings Tony
Hi mate ,
Had my Pearl shells re painted and there is paint on the bearing edge , Do you think that will change the sound dramatically ?
Thanks
Saul
Hey Saul, paint in a breading edge shouldn't affect things too much. If you true the edges to check that will fix anything anyways. All the best. Tony
Thanks Tony great job mate
You’re welcome!
tbh i’d just install a new reinforcement ring. torrified if i must…
Yeah, installing a new re-ring is heaps easier and faster, but I wanted to see what had to be done for it to be done that way.
@@KillerDrumsTV was a great demo! that convinced me that if i cannot get the glue off the re-ring i’ll just buy a new one. 😀
Yeah man, just use the shell off cut. But wanted to show that it's possible just the same if not easy.
Tite bond would work great. Epoxy isn,t good for tight joints.
Hey Russell, thanks for the comment. I'm not a fan of tite bond (pva glue) for drum making or repairs. Instead I use epoxy, but also use feeler gauges and/or an air blower to push the epoxy way down, some times a syringe and needle; but generally epoxy is the only way and always natural cure. Kind regards tony
Not a fan of your shop equipment, you may be getting decent results, but would not be impressed if it were my beloved drums. Ever heard of a router table? I almost passed out watching you cut the rrings off on a tablesaw with a crappy blade and no holding fixture to remain true. Good on you though, seems as though you are trusted in your domain and yes the job is done.
He has pro gear, he's just showing how to do this sort of stuff for others to do their own work at home.
Still... those Pearl Custom kits with re-rings are hard to come by, also the best shell Pearl ever made. If I were the owner of those drums and seen this video I’d be pissed!
the polymat 797 adhesive worked great on the Delmar wrap! As well I just purchased another Premier floor tom . Upon opening a bit of mold discovered . Treated with hydrogen peroxide. The following day used Bar Keeper's friend and white vinegar into a paste applied with paint brush left on 15 minutes then taken off with more vinegar dried with paper towel . 8 hours later another vinegar damp paper towel and it is good as new . Considering your Penetrol fdle4 next especially on the bearing edges and more to deter a mold build up in the future
Good work.
what's the bearing sealer used
Hey mate, I use two products.
1. Penetrol oil, which is the best thing for this, also great for chrome as well.
www.ppgpaints.com/products/specialty/flood-penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive
2. High grade Paraffin wax: first rubbed on, then using a small cotton piece of cloth rubbing back and forth and around the bearing edge to heat up the wax and coat the edge. This alone, causes the heads to float when played and increases the perception of sustain, because it removes traction of the head on the bearing edge. As such paraffin wax alone improve your drums tone. A great bearing edge brings the best out of your shells and heads.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin_wax
Hope this helps.
Kind regards
Tony
one of his videos said it was penetrol ... Apparently it is a wood sealer waterproofing element not just an additive to oil paint . Wonder if there is a special formula or if it is only one type product. Also was interested in his statement about Premier nailing in there beechwood rings instead of glueing also if that were the case were the 45 degree edges already filed as well ? Perhaps they were one piece perfectly fitted no need to bang them into place.
@@KillerDrumsTV I got to thinking that penetrol might be good on the whole inner shell .... this one particular Premier is only 1/8" thick while all the others are 1/4" thick hence the beech re ring add ons . Also considering adding a double sided 3M tape to beef up the fundamental tone too match the other thicker shells. should it be applied to the whole inner shell or just the rings
Yes! I use Penetrol on inside, outside (timber shells) and also it is a metal sealer. People think that metal is non porous, but it is porous and so penetrol seals and protects metal too. I have vintage drums that I penetrol decades ago, and still look great. You can built up coats after dry and use it as a shell finish. It’s seriously the best product around.