I recently bought a MusicNomad MN831 Precision Fret Beveling File which offers 2 different angles for fret beveling...plus a Stewmac file dressing. The change of seasons in relation to humidity can reek havoc on wood ! Thanks for this video. ! p.s..... WD40 is Not recommended. Either Naphtha or mineral spirits would do a much better job and not harm the finish. WD40 is NOT safe for the finish. I've seen several people doing this recently and it is bad news (for most guitars).
I appreciate the quality of this video. Thank-you. This is going to sound pretty random but I've been using a sanding sponge from Home Depot to roll the edges on my guitars and knock off the coating on the back of the neck. I really go to town and my guitars feel like they have been played a million hours.
Not sure but I start with a furniture stripping pad. They are very rough and really cut through the poly on the neck. Then just sanding sponges. Maybe 120?
I use a fret dress file and do individual frets at a time, hardly ever hit the wood if your careful, plus some frets are worse than others so it’s easier for me to feel what’s going on.
Looks like you got the wood at the edge of the fretboard a bit messed up there. I know its very difficult with maple necks to cure this common issue. I would not recommend anything but the slightest contact with fretboard between frets. The fret end files are the only tool I would use. Its a long and delicate process unless you are going to refinish at least the edges or the fretboard. C
Thanks for the input. I mention it at some point in the video, but with a Road Worn guitar I'm not too worried about making marks along the edge of fretboard and the final sanding tends to smooth it out anyway. But on non-Road Worn, yes, have to be careful. thanks.
@@saintnash1 Hi, Good suggestions. I've seen the tape method and tried it. I'm sure it protects the wood. I'm just being lazy, but i'll try it again. So thanks for the advice. And I'll try the leather too!
This is similar to what I do with every new guitar I buy before I even play it. In fact, I just bought a new Gibson Les Paul, and although the neck was done quite well, it's still needed this kind of love, albeit not the very end of the frets, since Gibson puts binding over them.
I'm glad you made this video, it's very helpful. If there is one thing I cannot stand about any guitar, it's having sharp fret ends, it makes it feel like you have a hacksaw blade in your fretting hand while you are trying to play. However, I would like to point out that it's best to take off the neck if it's bolt on, and put the body aside, make more room for yourself to work. Also, it is a good idea to spend a bit more money to get the Fret End Beveling File from StewMac, that will keep the proper angle for the bevel. I bought it because although I have the Snapfile System, it's beveling file ( or any file you might use to do beveling ) is difficult to maintain at a consistent angle. The downsides of the Fret End Beveling File are that you have to keep pressure on it to compensate for the change of the neck width, and to keep the file clean after every few strokes. I have a Fret End Dressing File also, and it's a good thing I kept it, because I purchased a set of the Concave Fret End Files, and while they do "put the round" back on the fret ends, I found out I needed the original Fret End Dressing File to take off the few remaining burrs on the sides of the fret ends. My final finishing technique is to use 220 sandpaper, then 320, then 400, and then completing the job with finishing papers. I use a sanding block also, I don't get aggressive with it, however, only a light touch is needed, since it is now more polishing than removing metal and wood.
Thanks for these suggestions. I was already considering trying the beveling file, so I will definitely give it a go. I will also try some of your other suggestions on sanding. I'm a little scared what 220 might do the the neck edges, but I'll try it. thanks!
Is it me or can I clearly see where you took off a bit of the wood from the finger board by filing without taping? Right at the 6 minute mark??? Also I'd be wary of using WD 40 especially on a maple neck like this. Am I misguided in my thinking? I have sharp fret ends on several guitars and I'm frankly scared to run a file over them.Thanks still kickin
Hey, some valid comments. Many people have commented with worry about not taping the fretboard. What I say is definitely do tape it if you have any doubts. I have done this so many times now that I feel confident and if you look at my final result at end of video you'll see that after sanding, most marks I've made get smoothed over (this Road Worn does show some color difference when you scuff the wood, but it will even out again soon with playing). Also with the WD-40 that's just what works for me. I mention you can also use Windex or water as a lubricant. I recently watched a StewMac video doing this same exact process and he also did not tape off the fretboard, but again, I think for most people it's the smart way to go. Just to be safe. And those files can be quite aggressive. Also, a key is to go very slow with it. And try not to get too freaked out by small marks you make. Really watch the sanding process I go through with several grits and if you do this part right it will take care of most small imperfections you've made. Also, if you are new to doing this, start on a cheap guitar, not your high-end baby. Hope that helps. Good luck!
PS: You might check this video: ruclips.net/video/DLR_bl_0LMI/видео.html I really go into how going through various grits of sandpaper slowly erases marks/damage. If that process is new to you, it could help. cheers
I'd be afraid to do-this, without Taping . . . to Protect against wood damage. I do enjoy doing my own guitar repair & maintenance. Great information presented here.
I only have one guitar out of 11 ! with this problem..it's a nice parts caster i built and put some money into.. I bought the stew mac fret file dressing kit 60 bucks ! but took care of the sprout a little bit so far.. i think i need that sanding beam you had in the beginning? hate to spend more then i need to? or i also have a dremel tool but but hesitant to use? it's a mighty mite maple neck...
ha ha...I have a Stew Mac vise you can't see off to the side holding the guitar. It's the red vise they sell for like $200 now. It really hurt to spend that much on a vise, but I use it all the time. Has the soft rubber pads so it doesn't hurt the guitar: www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/vises/guitar-repair-vise/
No offense, but you went from a metal FILE to 4000 grit?? That's like, going from 100 grit to 4000 grit... 😐 I could see going from the file to maybe 220 grit, then going up to the higher ones...
Yea, good point, sometimes I start a little lower around 1k, but go much lower and you're just scratching things up. 1k or higher works for me. cheers..PS: Check out a follow up vid I did just because of your question: ruclips.net/video/WLJ5qllb6a0/видео.html. In it I try using heavier grits...guess what I found out!
@@chrisgravier9650 Hi Chris, No actually I use 3M paper 5k grit and even higher with the micro mesh pads (12k). For me you gotta start 1k or higher. 400 you'll just make a mess of your neck. but there are many ways to do this. cheers
you never use WD 40 on a guitar, it has silicone and that can damage some lacquers and other finishes. If you go to re-paint your guitar it will certainly become an issue the silicone will eat away the lacquer
@@stillkickinmusic meaning if you accidentally sand off some wood surrounding the fret tangs in the process, there would be some discoloration in the wood, no?
@@nathanielcooper2602 I would just leave it be if I were you. If you tried to airbrush the filed wood to get it as close as possible to the original tint, it will not come out that great, because that original tint will more than likely be worn out also.. Unless you want to refinish the whole neck, that's another story, you can if you want.
@@nathanielcooper2602 What I would do to get as close as possible to the effect you want in this case is to give the filed wood a couple of coats of lemon oil, but keep them light, don't soak it. Let them dry for a while after a good rub in. Oils have a darkening effect ( however slight ) depending on the wood ( on rosewood, ebony, etc, the darkening after lemon oiling is more pronounced ). I would inform a customer, or whomever you might be doing this for about the final appearance of fretboard edges after a filing job. It's not wanton destruction, but make it clear that the benefits far outweigh something that eventually won't be paid attention to, especially if the rest of the instrument is worn out, finish wise.
Strange, I would like to think that fender or Gibson QA would not allow sharp fret ends leave the factory. So if there's fretboard or neck shrinkage surely it's because the wood has shrunk due to drying out, humidity maybe not being looked after properly?
Fret sprout is caused by the fingerboard drying out and shrinking. Guitars factories are climate controlled. Your house is climate controlled. All the points in between are not - thus fret sprout if it dries out a lot since it was fretted.
Yes, especially on these necks that are unfinished, the wood tends to shrink and expand. They get dry and the fret ends stick out. Quite common. cheers
As a teenager in the 70s, I could go into any guitar store and never feel sharp frets on an any Fender or Gibson. Now it seems almost every new guitar has sharp frets. Definitely a quality control issue.
Shouldn't have to do it on every Fender. Depends on how dry the weather is in your area and how you store your guitars too. You can use a humidifier to help things out.
It’s still works fine. Just be careful. If you’re really worried, you can tape off the neck. I don’t like to take the extra 15 minutes to do it. Even the SteeMac videos they don’t tape the neck. But you need some experience
@@stillkickinmusic One thing I notice is that my acoustic will buzz during the winter but goes back to normal by the end of spring. It’s a Taylor and I don’t have the wrench for the truss rod. Lol So, patience is a virtue. Thanks for getting back though. Time to call StewMac.
A fret leveling file (as shown in this video) is primarily deigned for fret leveling, but can be used to bevel fret ends as well (as shown here). The preferred dedicated tool for leveling would be a radiused sanding block, while the preferred dedicated tool for fret end beveling is a fret end beveling file/block. A fret leveling file or beam can do both, but its on you to maintain the correct radius and bevel. The radiused sanding block and fret end beveling file handle those for you.
Hi, I still do it the same way. If you're careful, the final sanding with super high grit smooths everything out. But if you have any doubts tape entire neck with tape in between frets to protect finish. I've just learned over the years how to do it without marking up the neck too much, but better to be safe and protect your finish. cheers
@David Wang , I wouldn't be harsh with your comments, man. He means well by going through the effort to put up an instructional video. it's ok, even recommend, to use naptha, a petroleum based product, to clean a finished guitar neck or body, so I wouldn't completely agree with you. Also, mineral oil is technically petroleum derived. Also, it's fine to not tape off a bound rosewood neck and use the rounded side down on a stew Mac file, however, yeah, I wouldn't do it with a finished maple neck, like the subject one.
I'll second that. USP grade mineral oil, lowest viscosity possible. Its the active ingredient in 99% of fretboard products (pretty much everything except Fret Doctor).
Thanks guys. I'll give mineral oil a try. Personally I've just always liked the way WD-40 works with the sandpaper and it seems to actually add something on these Road Worn guitars. I don't mind a little darkening, much like hand oils. As for using the file without tape, again, I don't mind marking up a Road Worn a bit, and I sand afterward through several grits that smooths out any messiness. cheers!
@@stillkickinmusic Any advise on how to do it without damaging the thick clear varnish. Masking tape over the fret ends maybe and just file the bits poking through the tape.
Yes, exactly what a lot of people do. Tape over the whole edge of the neck and then the file will hit the fret ends first and in between frets will be protected. I myself because I'm always trying to do things fast do it with no tape and am just very careful. You will start to hear and feel when the file starts hitting wood. Even if I slightly mar the varnish, I tend to go over the whole edge of neck with fine sandpaper anyway as a final step to make the frets even softer and that serves to get rid of any tiny scuffs that were made. Just use 1000, 2000 and higher grits and it will make the neck feel like butter. cheers!
If the guitar is ion its's way to New Zealand, sorry to say that you probably wasting your time. The humidity in Auckland is normally around 95%. Guaranteed to fix fret sprout!
You only know if you've experienced it. First time that I took my ESP Tele with fret sprout there, it disappeared in less than a week. Keep up the tips though!@@stillkickinmusic
Do NOT use WD-40 on your guitar, holy shit lol. Terrible idea. Also, do not use that StewMac Fret leveler unless your guitar is unfinished (most are finished in satin, poly, or nitro). A StewMac fret end dressing file is the best tool for this job. And then you can use #0000 Synthetic steel wool to finish. Also, at 1:24, you are suppose to bevel it, see StewMac's video titled "How to make sharp fret ends smooth with fret dressing file".
watch the video. it's a "road worn" guitar. There is no "finish" on the neck and I wasn't worried about small marks, sanding cleaned it right up. no need to waste time taping entire neck. The buyer was very happy. You wanna waste your time with tape on a Road Worn guitar, go for it.
😳 If ppl don’t want to take the time to do it properly on each fret end with a dressing file , they’d be better off using a 220 grit sanding sponge and “lightly” running it down on a angle to miss the wood. But only on maple necks and cheap guitars. Anyone doing this on an expensive American Fender or Gibson should be fired!
There are a million ways to skin this cat. This was a Road Worn guitar, so you can be pretty liberal with how you treat it and it just adds to the vibe. Not sure if you're saying using the leveling file is "wrong," but plenty of people do it this way and if done right, you won't hurt the guitar. I start with the leveling file, then progress to a dressing file. Final finish sanding cleans up any mess if you're careful.
I recently bought a MusicNomad MN831 Precision Fret Beveling File which offers 2 different angles for fret beveling...plus a Stewmac file dressing. The change of seasons in relation to humidity can reek havoc on wood ! Thanks for this video. ! p.s..... WD40 is Not recommended. Either Naphtha or mineral spirits would do a much better job and not harm the finish. WD40 is NOT safe for the finish. I've seen several people doing this recently and it is bad news (for most guitars).
Thanks for input. I’ll check out that beveling file. I hate to part with my WD-40 so you’ll have to pry it from my cold dead hands but thanks!
I appreciate the quality of this video. Thank-you.
This is going to sound pretty random but I've been using a sanding sponge from Home Depot to roll the edges on my guitars and knock off the coating on the back of the neck. I really go to town and my guitars feel like they have been played a million hours.
yea, sounds like a good way to go. the bendable sanding pieces really work well for that stuff. cheers!
Nice Suggestion .. what grit(s) do you suggest ?
Not sure but I start with a furniture stripping pad. They are very rough and really cut through the poly on the neck. Then just sanding sponges. Maybe 120?
This is a great video straight to the point on how to fix sharp fret end
Yep. Straight to the "point"! Thanks for the kind words. I have a follow up vid coming soon. cheers
damn that looks legit
gonna order some files and a fret leveling block and try this out
I use a fret dress file and do individual frets at a time, hardly ever hit the wood if your careful, plus some frets are worse than others so it’s easier for me to feel what’s going on.
Fret dress file is a good tool. I also use one. thanks.
Thanks for your clear explanation and giving instructions that a novice like me can follow.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks like you got the wood at the edge of the fretboard a bit messed up there. I know its very difficult with maple necks to cure this common issue. I would not recommend anything but the slightest contact with fretboard between frets. The fret end files are the only tool I would use. Its a long and delicate process unless you are going to refinish at least the edges or the fretboard. C
Thanks for the input. I mention it at some point in the video, but with a Road Worn guitar I'm not too worried about making marks along the edge of fretboard and the final sanding tends to smooth it out anyway. But on non-Road Worn, yes, have to be careful. thanks.
Thanks. I’ve been making cigar box guitars and this has been a real problem for me. This is really helpful!
@@saintnash1 Hi, Good suggestions. I've seen the tape method and tried it. I'm sure it protects the wood. I'm just being lazy, but i'll try it again. So thanks for the advice. And I'll try the leather too!
This is similar to what I do with every new guitar I buy before I even play it. In fact, I just bought a new Gibson Les Paul, and although the neck was done quite well, it's still needed this kind of love, albeit not the very end of the frets, since Gibson puts binding over them.
I'm glad you made this video, it's very helpful. If there is one thing I cannot stand about any guitar, it's having sharp fret ends, it makes it feel like you have a hacksaw blade in your fretting hand while you are trying to play. However, I would like to point out that it's best to take off the neck if it's bolt on, and put the body aside, make more room for yourself to work. Also, it is a good idea to spend a bit more money to get the Fret End Beveling File from StewMac, that will keep the proper angle for the bevel. I bought it because although I have the Snapfile System, it's beveling file ( or any file you might use to do beveling ) is difficult to maintain at a consistent angle. The downsides of the Fret End Beveling File are that you have to keep pressure on it to compensate for the change of the neck width, and to keep the file clean after every few strokes. I have a Fret End Dressing File also, and it's a good thing I kept it, because I purchased a set of the Concave Fret End Files, and while they do "put the round" back on the fret ends, I found out I needed the original Fret End Dressing File to take off the few remaining burrs on the sides of the fret ends. My final finishing technique is to use 220 sandpaper, then 320, then 400, and then completing the job with finishing papers. I use a sanding block also, I don't get aggressive with it, however, only a light touch is needed, since it is now more polishing than removing metal and wood.
Thanks for these suggestions. I was already considering trying the beveling file, so I will definitely give it a go. I will also try some of your other suggestions on sanding. I'm a little scared what 220 might do the the neck edges, but I'll try it. thanks!
Is it me or can I clearly see where you took off a bit of the wood from the finger board by filing without taping? Right at the 6 minute mark??? Also I'd be wary of using WD 40 especially on a maple neck like this. Am I misguided in my thinking? I have sharp fret ends on several guitars and I'm frankly scared to run a file over them.Thanks still kickin
Hey, some valid comments. Many people have commented with worry about not taping the fretboard. What I say is definitely do tape it if you have any doubts. I have done this so many times now that I feel confident and if you look at my final result at end of video you'll see that after sanding, most marks I've made get smoothed over (this Road Worn does show some color difference when you scuff the wood, but it will even out again soon with playing). Also with the WD-40 that's just what works for me. I mention you can also use Windex or water as a lubricant. I recently watched a StewMac video doing this same exact process and he also did not tape off the fretboard, but again, I think for most people it's the smart way to go. Just to be safe. And those files can be quite aggressive. Also, a key is to go very slow with it. And try not to get too freaked out by small marks you make. Really watch the sanding process I go through with several grits and if you do this part right it will take care of most small imperfections you've made. Also, if you are new to doing this, start on a cheap guitar, not your high-end baby. Hope that helps. Good luck!
PS: You might check this video: ruclips.net/video/DLR_bl_0LMI/видео.html
I really go into how going through various grits of sandpaper slowly erases marks/damage. If that process is new to you, it could help. cheers
@@stillkickinmusic thx
I'd be afraid to do-this, without Taping . . . to Protect against wood damage. I do enjoy doing my own guitar repair & maintenance. Great information presented here.
You make a good point, but after doing it for years I no longer tape, especially on a Road Worn like this...any marks are just more "character."
@@stillkickinmusic ha, ha, ha, Yeah - I hear ya. Less stress. I'm the polar-opposite, and like-em "Pristine" (it's alot-of work) oNe LovE from NYC
This was an excellent video. Wish I had seen this before my first attempt at cleaning up the frets on my guitar.
so true. my poor spare tele neck took a beating with the fret file.
Glad to be of help. Hope the next time goes better.
Always good to see another view on how to dress fret ends, thank you!! Like 332
Thank you! Cheers!
that road worn looks pretty sweet
cheers. it's now in New Zealand with its new owner. nice one...
I like what you're doing. Have you ever tried a mini buffing wheel to finish your wonderful rounding over skills?
Hmm. nice suggestion. I have tried going over it using a cotton wheel on my Dremel and some polishing paste. Definitely helped. Thanks!
I only have one guitar out of 11 ! with this problem..it's a nice parts caster i built and put some money into.. I bought the stew mac fret file dressing kit 60 bucks ! but took care of the sprout a little bit so far.. i think i need that sanding beam you had in the beginning? hate to spend more then i need to? or i also have a dremel tool but but hesitant to use? it's a mighty mite maple neck...
cheers. you can definitely get a cheaper sanding beam on ebay for $20, but StewMac stuff lasts forever and is pretty good--just $$
Great video! Thanks for posting.
Thanks so much for watching.
Fyi - a 400 grit sanding sponge will take care of fret ends all in one step, plus it can round the edges at the same time
nice tip. got a link for the one you use?
Hi, can I ask what you are using to hold the guitar in that position?
Looks like.....
www.ebay.com/itm/Music-Nomad-MN207-Premium-Work-Station-Cradle-Cube-and-Work-Mat-Pak-/303995400688?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
No
@@adriansvarela i wasnt asking you
ha ha...I have a Stew Mac vise you can't see off to the side holding the guitar. It's the red vise they sell for like $200 now. It really hurt to spend that much on a vise, but I use it all the time. Has the soft rubber pads so it doesn't hurt the guitar: www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/vises/guitar-repair-vise/
Awesome work!
Thanks Sean!
No offense, but you went from a metal FILE to 4000 grit?? That's like, going from 100 grit to 4000 grit... 😐 I could see going from the file to maybe 220 grit, then going up to the higher ones...
Yea, good point, sometimes I start a little lower around 1k, but go much lower and you're just scratching things up. 1k or higher works for me. cheers..PS: Check out a follow up vid I did just because of your question: ruclips.net/video/WLJ5qllb6a0/видео.html. In it I try using heavier grits...guess what I found out!
Surely he meant 400 lol
He says 400-600-800 etc
They don’t even sell 8,000 grit
so yeah start with 400, go to 2500 or so
@@chrisgravier9650 Hi Chris, No actually I use 3M paper 5k grit and even higher with the micro mesh pads (12k). For me you gotta start 1k or higher. 400 you'll just make a mess of your neck. but there are many ways to do this. cheers
Thank you so much!
No worries!
you never use WD 40 on a guitar, it has silicone and that can damage some lacquers and other finishes. If you go to re-paint your guitar it will certainly become an issue the silicone will eat away the lacquer
hey to each their own. it's the best sanding lubricant you can find, but use Windex if you don't like WD. cheers
WD-40 does not have silicone in it.
@@Hohoho962Just mentioning, there is a special WD40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant. I use it to lubricate the treadmill belt.
What would you use if you wanted to match the lighter tint of maple that got nicked to the rest of the neck?
sorry man. don't quite understand what you're asking. thanks for watching!
@@stillkickinmusic meaning if you accidentally sand off some wood surrounding the fret tangs in the process, there would be some discoloration in the wood, no?
@@nathanielcooper2602 I would just leave it be if I were you. If you tried to airbrush the filed wood to get it as close as possible to the original tint, it will not come out that great, because that original tint will more than likely be worn out also.. Unless you want to refinish the whole neck, that's another story, you can if you want.
Makes sense. Thanks for the response!
@@nathanielcooper2602 What I would do to get as close as possible to the effect you want in this case is to give the filed wood a couple of coats of lemon oil, but keep them light, don't soak it. Let them dry for a while after a good rub in. Oils have a darkening effect ( however slight ) depending on the wood ( on rosewood, ebony, etc, the darkening after lemon oiling is more pronounced ). I would inform a customer, or whomever you might be doing this for about the final appearance of fretboard edges after a filing job. It's not wanton destruction, but make it clear that the benefits far outweigh something that eventually won't be paid attention to, especially if the rest of the instrument is worn out, finish wise.
Strange, I would like to think that fender or Gibson QA would not allow sharp fret ends leave the factory. So if there's fretboard or neck shrinkage surely it's because the wood has shrunk due to drying out, humidity maybe not being looked after properly?
Fret sprout is caused by the fingerboard drying out and shrinking. Guitars factories are climate controlled. Your house is climate controlled. All the points in between are not - thus fret sprout if it dries out a lot since it was fretted.
Yes, especially on these necks that are unfinished, the wood tends to shrink and expand. They get dry and the fret ends stick out. Quite common. cheers
As a teenager in the 70s, I could go into any guitar store and never feel sharp frets on an any Fender or Gibson. Now it seems almost every new guitar has sharp frets. Definitely a quality control issue.
Why is it almoust 90% a fender,,i have several guitars and almoust every fender i need to do this??
Shouldn't have to do it on every Fender. Depends on how dry the weather is in your area and how you store your guitars too. You can use a humidifier to help things out.
What size grit should we use?
Hi,
Depends on the wood, but I usually start around 800 or 1000 and work through several grits up to 12,000. By then it's smooth and glassy.
How much does it cost someone to do this for you?
Hi, thanks. It will depend on the luthier. It does take some real time to do it right, so I'd expect at least $100, but ask around. cheers
@@stillkickinmusic thank you.
What if neck is painted or laquered?
It’s still works fine. Just be careful. If you’re really worried, you can tape off the neck. I don’t like to take the extra 15 minutes to do it. Even the SteeMac videos they don’t tape the neck. But you need some experience
What happens when the humidity returns and the neck swells back to normal?
Great question. I know how to smooth them out, but never thought what happens if the wood swells. Research needed...
@@stillkickinmusic One thing I notice is that my acoustic will buzz during the winter but goes back to normal by the end of spring. It’s a Taylor and I don’t have the wrench for the truss rod. Lol So, patience is a virtue. Thanks for getting back though. Time to call StewMac.
@@keithclark486 You mean...like ....flipping the mattress? Lol
@@keithclark486 Really? Sounds expensive. Think I’ll consider a fret file. Lol
@@keithclark486 I might actually have some of those. I priced a Fender USA neck....$800! Where are those confounded files?!!! Lol
Would this tool be good for leveling out the frets? Or just for sprouts
Hi yes it’s good for leveling too.
A fret leveling file (as shown in this video) is primarily deigned for fret leveling, but can be used to bevel fret ends as well (as shown here). The preferred dedicated tool for leveling would be a radiused sanding block, while the preferred dedicated tool for fret end beveling is a fret end beveling file/block. A fret leveling file or beam can do both, but its on you to maintain the correct radius and bevel. The radiused sanding block and fret end beveling file handle those for you.
@@normbarrows I received and used mine the other day. Worked perfectly
you are running the file backwards by the looks of it unless yours is different then mine
How do you tell backward and forward on that file?
What if the neck has a high gloss finish?
Hi, I still do it the same way. If you're careful, the final sanding with super high grit smooths everything out. But if you have any doubts tape entire neck with tape in between frets to protect finish. I've just learned over the years how to do it without marking up the neck too much, but better to be safe and protect your finish. cheers
I recommend mineral oil for lube rather than Wd 40. Tried and True finishing oil works for putting a new finish finish on any wood scratches you make.
@David Wang , I wouldn't be harsh with your comments, man. He means well by going through the effort to put up an instructional video. it's ok, even recommend, to use naptha, a petroleum based product, to clean a finished guitar neck or body, so I wouldn't completely agree with you. Also, mineral oil is technically petroleum derived. Also, it's fine to not tape off a bound rosewood neck and use the rounded side down on a stew Mac file, however, yeah, I wouldn't do it with a finished maple neck, like the subject one.
I'll second that. USP grade mineral oil, lowest viscosity possible. Its the active ingredient in 99% of fretboard products (pretty much everything except Fret Doctor).
Thanks guys. I'll give mineral oil a try. Personally I've just always liked the way WD-40 works with the sandpaper and it seems to actually add something on these Road Worn guitars. I don't mind a little darkening, much like hand oils. As for using the file without tape, again, I don't mind marking up a Road Worn a bit, and I sand afterward through several grits that smooths out any messiness. cheers!
Those maple necks usually have a thick clear coat.
Quite true. Just happens this Road Worn has almost none.
@@stillkickinmusic Any advise on how to do it without damaging the thick clear varnish. Masking tape over the fret ends maybe and just file the bits poking through the tape.
Yes, exactly what a lot of people do. Tape over the whole edge of the neck and then the file will hit the fret ends first and in between frets will be protected. I myself because I'm always trying to do things fast do it with no tape and am just very careful. You will start to hear and feel when the file starts hitting wood. Even if I slightly mar the varnish, I tend to go over the whole edge of neck with fine sandpaper anyway as a final step to make the frets even softer and that serves to get rid of any tiny scuffs that were made. Just use 1000, 2000 and higher grits and it will make the neck feel like butter. cheers!
Not sure I want W-d40 anywhere near my guitar.
I hear you. Some people might hesitate. I can only say never had it hurt any finish. and for a Road Worn...basically no problem. cheers
A little naphtha to get rid of that wd40 smell. It’s a good, nitro safe cleaner.
awesome. naptha. thanks!
If the guitar is ion its's way to New Zealand, sorry to say that you probably wasting your time. The humidity in Auckland is normally around 95%. Guaranteed to fix fret sprout!
Oh, well, I know the buyer and didn't want him to have to deal with it. Wasn't sure it would fix itself, but thanks.
You only know if you've experienced it. First time that I took my ESP Tele with fret sprout there, it disappeared in less than a week. Keep up the tips though!@@stillkickinmusic
Do NOT use WD-40 on your guitar, holy shit lol. Terrible idea. Also, do not use that StewMac Fret leveler unless your guitar is unfinished (most are finished in satin, poly, or nitro). A StewMac fret end dressing file is the best tool for this job. And then you can use #0000 Synthetic steel wool to finish. Also, at 1:24, you are suppose to bevel it, see StewMac's video titled "How to make sharp fret ends smooth with fret dressing file".
WD-40 is a lifesaver. Useful all the time. You do you brother. If. you don't agree, then good on ya. This is what works for me. cheers!
RUclips worn….😅
Thanks for stopping by!
that sucks he fucked up the finish on the the sides of the neck and fret board you need to tape that area off
watch the video. it's a "road worn" guitar. There is no "finish" on the neck and I wasn't worried about small marks, sanding cleaned it right up. no need to waste time taping entire neck. The buyer was very happy. You wanna waste your time with tape on a Road Worn guitar, go for it.
Wd40 no thank you
WD-40 is a great lubricant and I love using it! Some guys recommend Mineral Oil. I'll stick with WD. cheers
😳
If ppl don’t want to take the time to do it properly on each fret end with a dressing file , they’d be better off using a 220 grit sanding sponge and “lightly” running it down on a angle to miss the wood. But only on maple necks and cheap guitars. Anyone doing this on an expensive American Fender or Gibson should be fired!
There are a million ways to skin this cat. This was a Road Worn guitar, so you can be pretty liberal with how you treat it and it just adds to the vibe. Not sure if you're saying using the leveling file is "wrong," but plenty of people do it this way and if done right, you won't hurt the guitar. I start with the leveling file, then progress to a dressing file. Final finish sanding cleans up any mess if you're careful.
use a tape MAN 😂
Hi, no tape for me my man. Don't need it! But you go ahead and spend 30 minutes on tape if you need it. cheers
This is all terrible advice!😢
Ha ha! Love these positive comments....Very constructive. cheers