Hello Lukasz, great video as always (I've seen it 4 days ago with a different thumbnail, which was actually very nice). But what impressed me the most was your choice of clothing to perfectly match the waves at 11:23 . Amazing!👍 Have a great day!
Yeah, I liked the original thumbnail. I might put it back. The views are not as good as on our other videos so I tried a few other ones... but they seem to make no difference. But anyway, I'm glad you liked it! Yeah, I was amazingly coordinated with the ocean on this day haha! :)
I always find your street photography very inspiring, actually your videos is why I started to more seriously try street photography this summer, but it turns out you're a great landscape photographer too!
Lovely images and narration as always! It's always so refreshing to hear you talk through your process when shooting compared to a lot of other creators on RUclips. And very excited to see your print shop open! I've been wanting a copy of Slide for a long time now.
Enjoyable video and pics. Nice change of pace. Super venue and storm preview. Expected Godzilla to emerge from the sea and stomp on the lava rocks😊. “Cloud hat” new photo term. Hot pixel bit a plus. Is the lens weather sealed? Re ND filters, do you prefer single over variable NDs? Reason and preference might make for a good vid. Yes, I always watch good YT channel posts to the end. Cheers!
OMG yeah Godzilla emerging from the sea would be something else hahaha. I'm not sure if the lens is weather sealed, I like to play fast and loose with my gear hahaha. But it survived with no apparent issues. I do have a variable ND but don't use it often. I guess my preference is just convenience. Thanks for watching to the end! I do that too!! :)
At least on Nikon the Low and High "Extended" ISOs are digital. It takes a photo at base ISO (64 in case of the Z9) and then multiplies it down by 1 EV to get to ISO 32. The trick the camera does to not get blown out highlights when doing this, is to underexpose by about 1 EV while *not* in Low Extended ISO, which pretty much every Nikon since the mid-2010s does. The reasoning behind it is "highlight protection"; when you shoot JPEG your Nikon can use that extra highlight data for "Active D Lighting" and miraculously bring back detail. So when you're at ISO L1 the right end of your histogram really is the end, but at ISO 64 and above you usually get some extra highlight data in your raw files.
I don't get it... how can in 'underexpose'? The shutter speed and aperture are fixed and only they affect the amount of light entering the camera (the exposure). The ISO is just an analog gain (like a volume knob) applied to the two native ISOs (it's a dual ISO sensor: I think it's 64 and 800 but could be wrong. So I think you're describing what I'm saying in the video. L1 is treated the same as any other ISO: the sensor shoots one of it's native ISOs and then the camera applies a gain adjustment to the ISO that's selected by the user. But it's not digital, it's analog.
@@EYExplore This stuff is hard to explain. "Dual Native ISO" is a misnomer, your sensor only has one set of photosites (at ISO 64) but, as you said, two sets of amplifiers, one for lower gain (ISO 64-400) and one for higher gain (ISO 500-25600). Anything outside these two ranges the analog amplifiers just can't do and has to be done digitally. This digital gain happens in camera, so it doesn't handle any different to the photographer, it's more of a technical detail. The underexposure I'm talking about is your meter lying to you when you shoot in these normal ISO ranges to give you more of a safety margin for highlight detail. When you take a photo at ISO 64-25600 your light meter nudges you toward a lower exposure, or just does it if you use any auto mode, and saves the amount of applied safety margin to the raw file. It's then up to your raw editor (e.g. Lightroom) to detect this value and pull the image back up (or if it doesn't you have to dial it in manually). When you go into Low ISO that margin is gone, which is where the range needed to accomplish a lower exposure comes from. So to take a photo at ISO L1 (32), the camera takes a photo at ISO 64 but "exposes to the right", then uses digital gain to pull it down to match the expected exposure.
@@CobraFast You clearly are much more knowledgeable than me on this topic. I guess my technical reasoning is incorrect, but my conclusion is still sound: the L1 ISO is totally fine to use and results an image no different than 64 ISO, except you have less latitude for editing in post. :)
Great scenery, great shots!
Thanks!! Glad you like them! :)
Świetna miejscówka do fotografii krajobrazowej ;) Super zdjęcia wyszły 👍
Naprawdę głupim szczęściem pogoda się udała! :)
The shots were so good man, regardless of the gear. ❤
Thank you!! Totally, mother nature is the real artist here! :)
Hello Lukasz,
great video as always (I've seen it 4 days ago with a different thumbnail, which was actually very nice). But what impressed me the most was your choice of clothing to perfectly match the waves at 11:23 . Amazing!👍
Have a great day!
Yeah, I liked the original thumbnail. I might put it back. The views are not as good as on our other videos so I tried a few other ones... but they seem to make no difference. But anyway, I'm glad you liked it! Yeah, I was amazingly coordinated with the ocean on this day haha! :)
I always find your street photography very inspiring, actually your videos is why I started to more seriously try street photography this summer, but it turns out you're a great landscape photographer too!
Thanks!! Glad you inspire you!! I rarely shoot landscapes but sometimes I get lucky with the weather and light haha. :)
Lovely images and narration as always! It's always so refreshing to hear you talk through your process when shooting compared to a lot of other creators on RUclips. And very excited to see your print shop open! I've been wanting a copy of Slide for a long time now.
Thank you so much for the kind words!! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and very pleased to hear you'd like a print!! Thank you!! :)
Another winner from Viltrox! I love their 40mm and 85mm, I want the 20mm next, this is a bit too wide for me. Great 3 lens setup for a low price.
They do a great job! Awesome lenses for the price! :)
Enjoyable video and pics. Nice change of pace. Super venue and storm preview. Expected Godzilla to emerge from the sea and stomp on the lava rocks😊. “Cloud hat” new photo term. Hot pixel bit a plus.
Is the lens weather sealed?
Re ND filters, do you prefer single over variable NDs? Reason and preference might make for a good vid.
Yes, I always watch good YT channel posts to the end. Cheers!
OMG yeah Godzilla emerging from the sea would be something else hahaha. I'm not sure if the lens is weather sealed, I like to play fast and loose with my gear hahaha. But it survived with no apparent issues. I do have a variable ND but don't use it often. I guess my preference is just convenience. Thanks for watching to the end! I do that too!! :)
does the viltrox 16mm get much corner pinching distortion?
None that I could notice!
At least on Nikon the Low and High "Extended" ISOs are digital. It takes a photo at base ISO (64 in case of the Z9) and then multiplies it down by 1 EV to get to ISO 32. The trick the camera does to not get blown out highlights when doing this, is to underexpose by about 1 EV while *not* in Low Extended ISO, which pretty much every Nikon since the mid-2010s does. The reasoning behind it is "highlight protection"; when you shoot JPEG your Nikon can use that extra highlight data for "Active D Lighting" and miraculously bring back detail. So when you're at ISO L1 the right end of your histogram really is the end, but at ISO 64 and above you usually get some extra highlight data in your raw files.
I don't get it... how can in 'underexpose'? The shutter speed and aperture are fixed and only they affect the amount of light entering the camera (the exposure). The ISO is just an analog gain (like a volume knob) applied to the two native ISOs (it's a dual ISO sensor: I think it's 64 and 800 but could be wrong. So I think you're describing what I'm saying in the video. L1 is treated the same as any other ISO: the sensor shoots one of it's native ISOs and then the camera applies a gain adjustment to the ISO that's selected by the user. But it's not digital, it's analog.
@@EYExplore This stuff is hard to explain. "Dual Native ISO" is a misnomer, your sensor only has one set of photosites (at ISO 64) but, as you said, two sets of amplifiers, one for lower gain (ISO 64-400) and one for higher gain (ISO 500-25600). Anything outside these two ranges the analog amplifiers just can't do and has to be done digitally. This digital gain happens in camera, so it doesn't handle any different to the photographer, it's more of a technical detail.
The underexposure I'm talking about is your meter lying to you when you shoot in these normal ISO ranges to give you more of a safety margin for highlight detail. When you take a photo at ISO 64-25600 your light meter nudges you toward a lower exposure, or just does it if you use any auto mode, and saves the amount of applied safety margin to the raw file. It's then up to your raw editor (e.g. Lightroom) to detect this value and pull the image back up (or if it doesn't you have to dial it in manually).
When you go into Low ISO that margin is gone, which is where the range needed to accomplish a lower exposure comes from. So to take a photo at ISO L1 (32), the camera takes a photo at ISO 64 but "exposes to the right", then uses digital gain to pull it down to match the expected exposure.
@@CobraFast You clearly are much more knowledgeable than me on this topic. I guess my technical reasoning is incorrect, but my conclusion is still sound: the L1 ISO is totally fine to use and results an image no different than 64 ISO, except you have less latitude for editing in post. :)
😍🥰
Thank you! :)