This takes me back to the berm project I did in my yard. It is the reason I bought my BX. It is amazing what a 8" tall berm will redirect with a wide enough ditch bottom. I agree with the hydraulic top link. It changes the game with a box blade. I find micro changes in slope are enough to disengage the blade. And having the ability to adjust top link on the fly makes all the difference. Take Care, Jason
Great vidio. I also wanted to tell you and your wife it was great meeting you at Rantoul. My son said hello to you as you pulled in the parking lot. The next thing we knew you drove by us, turned around and gave us a ride in. That made my sons day sitting with you in the gator, and i enjoyed talking with your wife sitting on the back. You and your wife are very nice people and also very genuine people. Thanks again and it was a pleasure.
Looks nice! I have found when addressing water issues, the best thing tou can do to plan is grab the raincoat and go study the water shed when it is pouring. Amazing what water will do.
The hydraulic top link is definitely the way to go. So handy. Another great video Tim and Christy. The 1025R sub-compact are such great little tractors. Thanks for sharing. Yesterday in your live chat video you said something about there being a souped-up 1025R coming soon. Looking forward to that.
I've seen a couple of vids of the 4 in 1 bucket in the past and really didn't give them much thought, but what you showed with it in this vid made me pause and take notice. That was pretty impressive. Going to have to pay a little more attention to them now.
@@TractorTimewithTim That's kind of what turn me off to the four-in-one when I saw your video while back on trying to make it work like a grapple. I thought it was really weak in that area. However, you did seem to work well as a blade to move material on your front. I still can't make up my mind about these four in ones. Neil Messick should one on a larger machine that was more heavy-duty, but it still seemed to me that it had drawbacks.
Yea. I think the 4 in 1 should be way down the list of priorities for a subcompact. Too heavy. Not enough hydraulic flow to get full usefulness, etc. There are good applications for it, but a separate grapple, bu let and forks will solve most tasks. Just my opinion.
Nice job. My neighbor had a uneven, water pooling yard. He was going to install a drainage system. I fixed that with a 110 garden tractor using a tiller, push blade & a spade.lol. It took me all summer. I had a pile of dirt about 15 ft diameter & 4 ft high. Worked out great.
It was interesting seeing you using the box blade and the 4 in one bucket to show some of the ways they can be used to accomplish different tasks. I agree with your observation about the hydraulic top link use with the box blade. It really makes the box blade so much more useful. Also, I use the float on the top hydraulic top link when using my MX6 rotary cutter. Much more forgiving with uneven terrain, turning etc. Nice work as always. Blessings.
I really enjoy the drainage videos. Great solution for what the customer issue and budget which shows how respectful you are to each customer's situation. Another option which would cost tons more money would be like a dry rock bed along the property lines maybe down to the road or something, then could tie the drainage for the house into that and so he could most of his yard without a swell through it. But that would be a major time and expensive project.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD that could be. Just depends on the situation.... our last house I worked with our landlord and neighbor due to erosion on the property line. She had a line of pear trees that had roots exposed.... we simply dug 2 to 3 inches and put river rocks in to drain into the lake every time it rained. Only smart thing the builder did in the subdivision had good drainage between houses... so it was easy to put the stone in. We didn't damage the roots that much only digging a few inches.
You can always find the need for a better or different tool to use. It looked great what side you worked on. You are a neat worker in that you leave the jobs as if it was always like that. Great work. Nice to see the wife in there doing a fine job also.
Irrigation has nothing to do with it. They only irrigate in dry season, and then, not NEARLY enough to create runoff. Did you notice irrigation was on while we were there, and ditch was dry??
@@TractorTimewithTim no, I didn't notice the irrigation was on or the ditch was dry. Question. Is the water problem a recent thing or has it always been there?
Hi Tim i think your tractor Universe is a very good idea . There are many things that i learn every day and i have been learning many things from Tractor Time With Tim. Keep up the great work.
That is an interesting project. I think you were bang on with analyzing that and then even running it through to completion. The last shot shows what a good job you did.
I get why you don't like your box blade. It is because your rear blade floats and makes it so your front blade always cuts into the ground. I have a landpride with a fixed rear blade and with the top link adjusted out I can set my blade on that rear blade with the front blade just off the ground pull load of topsoil across the ground filling in holes. The other thing you can do is set the front blade just off the ground while riding on the rear blade is work your way across an area you want level in a circular motion and it will get the ground pretty smooth. When you drive in a circular motion the leaning tractor will pickup on one side of the blade and work its way to the other side where it is off the ground by like 1/2 inch. This also takes off the ridges and fills in the valleys. I will also do this to level out a gravel parking lot that has small holes in it. I mostly use my box blade for final grading like this, not cutting into the soil so much.
I know absolutely nothing about equipment your running I watch several RUclipsrs and they all or most use a box blade to great success...push or pull the boxblade gets it done...that attachment you were using at the towards the end looked interesting...will like to see more
Nice work. I am wanting to get a small box blade for my garden tractor when I get the 3 point installed but I can already tell that I am going to have to take small bites at a time to get my projects done.
That's a great word of advice for us to not be so quick to judge the previous guy's work. We were not there when the decision was made to do things a certain way or know what variables and constraints might have been in place. Fantastic looking job! I'll have to check out the rear hydraulics because that hydraulic top link would sure make life easier. 👍
So correct about the tiller, 1 to 2 in lift per pass. The four in one or box blade would not have to plow. The rippers set 1” deep this day would have mimicked the tiller, but tiller better exactly what you said for final grading. In the day I really did some drains using a gravely rotary plow walk behind, and a ford 8n with straight blade, for tight quarters. All we had...
I could see the 4 in 1 bucket beating the box blade for this specific project, but there are still things the box blade can do that the loader can't. At least not as well. I would say the 4 in 1 bucket is particularly advantageous on the 1025R because you have so much forward visibility due to the low hood on the tractor.
I think drainage projects may be one of the most rewarding. You get to see if your work was good relatively quickly and it can make such a dramatic difference in the property.
In the past I have made dry creek beds using stone for similar drainage issues. 1 the rock tends to hold up better and filter the water and 2 it looks esthetically pleasing to the eye but of course it cost a bit to do the job as there is now a need for more materials so the people need to have a better budget.
Great job Tim! Do you plan to have a part 2 when you do the other side? I'd like to see how you regrade but maintain the levee and keep it mowable. I have a similar issue at my house, but it's just rain water runoff from my driveway. The tiller is one of my favorite implements too!
You can also use the 4 in 1 to grade with a depth gauge. Open it up all the way and use the front part as the gauge and the rear cutting edge as the grader. It works super awesome for cutting swell and carrying the material around to fill the low spots. You just tilt the bucket to adjust the depth your cutting.
i would like to see the finshed product. That 4 in 1 bucket is more useful than I imagined. And I want a hydraulic top link soon....maybe Christmas this year
I'm about to start my biggest project ever with my tiller and box blade. I'm thinking a hydraulic top link will make my project a lot easier. I'm going to look into that.
Tim and viewers if you search youtube for international drott 4 in 1 there is a two part video with some great ideas and techniques for using a 4 in 1. Hydraulic tail wheels on the box scraper make it so much more handy for grading. I picked up a ford overland scrapper pan that I use behind my Kubota L3901 that I like more than the box scrapper provided there is enough room... wouldn't work so well on this tight job you had though.
Looking at getting a box blade for personal use only. Some other creators (Hamiltonville Farms maybe 🤔) advised getting one as a inexpensive soil/snow working solution. Thinking that if I get one I want a HD version and wondering how to incorporate a hydraulic cylinder? Live on a property that if I could sell rocks I could retire!!! 😂. Also would you invest in a mechanical thumb for a backhoe attachment? Ordered tractor in May and still waiting for just a build date. Thanks.
Great video Tim! do you have a link or part number for the Hydraulic Top link that you use? I recently bent one end of my factory top link by lifting my tiller with the ROPS folded down, and am looking to replace it with a hydraulic toplink.
Haven’t published a video on this yet, but I have located a great hydraulic top link. AgriStoreUSA.com use code ttwt for 5% off. For 1025r, you need cat 1 20-28”. These have check valve to keep from leaking down. Get the hose kit with it.
Tim, long time viewer from Kentucky. We met a few years ago at the Louisville tractor show. Following your advice of asking before criticizing, why were you operating the tractor with the loader so high in the air? I found sub compact tractors to be very "tippy" with their narrow tract width. Having the loader that high, it wouldn't take much to start to tip.
@@TractorTimewithTim ah, hard to see from the video, looks like you were just catching the tree. You make great content that me and my 6 year old love to watch. Stay safe and yes! We're subscribed.
Thanks for your devotion to developing the hydraulic kit with Summit. Will that kit and the hose length etc. work on a Deere 3720? Thanks and have a great day Tim!
Tim I'm trying to make a purchase decision need a box blade for occasional use don't need anything to hard core, also would like a larger capacity bucket for compost and mulch work, also light grapple work (rarely needed) ...now would 4 in 1 make me happy or is the grapple functionality just too poor to even consider ...just don't have room for box blade a new bucket and a grapple. Keep up the good work God bless.
I wasn't sure if you still had the 4-1 bucket. A while back you used it and was not impressed. I have one and it has a place where material removal and placement require some finesse.
Tim you need to run down the top of the ditch and angle the blade and you wouldn't have all that forward and back Number 2 you know you can push the Box blade till left or to the right With the spacers on the 3point
Can't wait for the next video on the final slope work We have Mobile Home rental that had over 1/2 an acre that was below grade for both sides of the property and was a temporary holding pond until the water flowed into the flood pond behind the 3 properties. I only had the FEL and BOX BLADE at the time and I learned a lot moving over 40 nine yard truck loads of dirt and another 20 loads of Tree Mulch to build up that low swamp without blocking the flow around the perimeter fence line to the rear The backyard now has 80% useful ares instead of being a mosquito breeding pond We had some really large rain falls for 3 or 4 days and most of the raids and yards got flooded The trailer park next door of course got flooded and they called the United Nations Controlled (I.C.L.E.I.) Code Enforcement because of the dirt I filled in I.C.L.E.I. is a United Nations controlled organization that tells the Local Government how Americans can use their properties. Code Enforcement evaluated what I had done and told Me what I needed to do to allow more water to flow around Our property by making the drainage path around the perimeter wider and they came back and said I did as they ASKED and were satisfied that the problem was solved I can't control excessive rains
Now you have me scared I'll bust the PTO shaft on every bump :) btw love the dump bucket :) So in your video I see the box blade taking off the top layer of grass. does that mean I dont need a sod cutter/remover?
I believe they would need 16” pipe to handle the water. Very expensive. Customer can always do that in the future if they can afford. This at least allows it to function.
Another great, fun and educational video!! That 4 in 1 bucket seems to be very helpful. Do they come in Orange?? LOL I have got to check out the meet and great schedule and see how close y’all will be to Memphis this year. I’d love to get to actually meet y’all in person. I have been watching so long you feel like part of the family. God Bless and stay safe!! The Other Tim with Tractors
Nice work in such a confined space! A four in one could very well be in future plans. (And a 3rd function control valve) What brand/model of box blade is that? Thanks for sharing!!
It doesn’t work very well on brush. Works great on certain things. It isn’t a power issue. Just a different design which doesn’t work perfectly for grapple type tasks.
I'm guessing cost would inhibit the idea of having a inlet catch basin, buried tile ran to an outlet, allowing for a smooth or flat yard that does not have an open ditch through the yard.
A catch basin and tile would need somewhere to transfer the water to quickly. Not only would it likely not execute as good as a swale, it would probably cost $3k-$5k at todays prices. For example, 18" ADS is currently $2k for 100' at Lowe's.
I liked the comment "a gentle enough slope so you can mow it." Sometime when you're in the neighbor hood you need to enjoy looking at my "gentle" slope that I mow.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll be upgrading from a 3’ self powered tiller (13hp engine on it) that inserts into a hitch. Now, my dealer told me a 4’ brush hog too, and I’ve regretted not listening to my gut on buying the 5’ every time I’ve used it now. The tractor has more than enough power for a 5’ cutter, and the ballast isn’t a issue either. I can put my 4’ cutter on and raise it allllll the way up, I’m talking the tail wheel off the ground 4’ itself and climb up it and jump (I’m 220lbs) up and down as hard as I can and I can’t hardly get my front wheels off the ground more than a single inch. So I’m very concerned on a $2000 dollar purchase that the 4’ or 5’ tiller question could have the same consequences that I’m living with now buy buying too small of a brush hog as well. I hate my 4’ brush hog, and it’s a “bad boy implement” brand of one. Not a cheep tool by any standard. I don’t want to live with the same mistake with a tiller that I feel is too small too. My track width on the tractor is very close to 48” anyway. I’d really like to have that 6” over lap on each side of the machine. I know you’ve ran a lot of stuff. I value your opinion and reasons on what you’d choose and why. Thanks man!
Nope. 4’ is the right size. Tiller pulls harder than a rotary cutter, especially if the ground is a bit wet. Also, unlike a mower, you won’t be tilling huge areas. We have probably a hundred videos showing the 1025r with 4’ tiller. Sometimes even the 4’ is more than the tractor wants.
Ok, I’ll have to listen then. The only tiller I’ve ever ran before is my dads 60” on his 35 horse yanmar red tractor, and that thing handles it no problem. Big power difference tho. I would try his out, but he’s got it set up for his quick hitch and he lives 3 hours away too. 🤷🏼♂️ I appreciate your wisdom Tim. Thank you.
Great project! It's one of those "lots of ways to skin a cat" jobs. So much depends on what the camera just can't show, which is that +/- 1" grade change that makes water flow this way or that. I probably would've brought a backhoe for rough work and then the tiller or the legendary Ventrac to finish the surface prep. That box blade was just too big for that tractor on that particular project. Looks like you'll have to buy a smaller one... 😉
Liked what you were doing, But a tiller set at 2in deep would have gotten rid of that grass clumps and would not have to deal with it and then it would have graded easier.
Tim, you always talk about extra weight. (mainly for tipping purposes), but in this case for slipping the wheels. but i dont hear you talk much about using 4wd. Do you use 4wd?
👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🙏🏻 Enjoyed! Like that you have a hydraulic top link, makes the box blade a lot more useful. Been trying to get Mike Morgan to put one on his larger box blade, but he's ignoring me👍 You probably should have your ROPS in the up position, especially when you got your bucket up in the sky, just saying👍 "You need to set a good example"👍 Take care and be safe🙏🏻
Tim, water is considered a common enemy in Indiana, that means Dan can build a levy, or do anything he wants to direct water off his property, and the only solution the neighbors have is to build their own system to send it back.
I don’t think that is quite what it means. Dan has to accept the water onto his property as it would naturally flow that way. He would NOT be allowed to build a levy blocking the water from his property.
@@TractorTimewithTim Here is directly from an Indians law firm In its most simplistic and pure form, the common enemy doctrine declares that surface water that does not flow in defined channels is a common enemy and that each landowner may deal with it in such a manner as best suits his own convenience. Such sanctioned dealings include walling the water in or out, diverting it or accelerating its flow by any means. However, a landowner cannot collect or concentrate surface water and cast it, in a body, upon his neighbor. Pflum v. Wayne Cnty. Bd. of Comm’rs, 892 N.E.2d 233, 237 (Ind. Ct. App. 2008). Under the doctrine, it is not unlawful for a landowner to accelerate or increase the flow of surface water by limiting or eliminating ground absorption or changing the grade of the land, even if it causes the water to stand in unusual quantities or in other directions than the water did before. The common enemy doctrine applies only to surface water and not to a natural watercourse. Surface water is defined as water generally originating from rain or melting snow which is diffused over the natural slope of the ground, not following a course or channel. Id.
@@TractorTimewithTim Tim, As I said, consult an actual local lawyer. I’m only trying to argue through bull headedness to at least ask a professional. I literally went through this myself, and my neighbor wasn’t happy I raised my grade, but the courts rejected his claims in summary judgements because he had no case in law.
in order to get a box blade to work in the way you wanted it to when you said "once again the box blade is being outclassed" you could need to tilt it back slightly so the back blade engages but the front blade not much or not at all.... that is how to scrap and flatten with it and not carry much, or ideally any, dirt with you as you drag. Leaves it nice and smooth. Sad to see ya talk bad about the box blade when it is seemingly user error.
Good grief. Dan knew what he was getting into. Unless I am misunderstanding, your comment is just another one which “assumes the other guy is an idiot”.
I’m quite pleased to see you and the 4 in 1 in action again!
This takes me back to the berm project I did in my yard. It is the reason I bought my BX. It is amazing what a 8" tall berm will redirect with a wide enough ditch bottom. I agree with the hydraulic top link. It changes the game with a box blade. I find micro changes in slope are enough to disengage the blade. And having the ability to adjust top link on the fly makes all the difference. Take Care, Jason
I would love a follow up to this project. During the rainy season, to see how the water moves through with your changes.
Great vidio. I also wanted to tell you and your wife it was great meeting you at Rantoul. My son said hello to you as you pulled in the parking lot. The next thing we knew you drove by us, turned around and gave us a ride in. That made my sons day sitting with you in the gator, and i enjoyed talking with your wife sitting on the back. You and your wife are very nice people and also very genuine people. Thanks again and it was a pleasure.
Enjoyed our time together! Thanks for talking with us, and thanks for the comment!
Looks nice! I have found when addressing water issues, the best thing tou can do to plan is grab the raincoat and go study the water shed when it is pouring. Amazing what water will do.
The hydraulic top link is definitely the way to go. So handy. Another great video Tim and Christy. The 1025R sub-compact are such great little tractors. Thanks for sharing.
Yesterday in your live chat video you said something about there being a souped-up 1025R coming soon. Looking forward to that.
Hello, what live chat video?
All subscribers should have been notified.
@@TractorTimewithTim Darn, I had the bell turned off. It's on now.
I've seen a couple of vids of the 4 in 1 bucket in the past and really didn't give them much thought, but what you showed with it in this vid made me pause and take notice. That was pretty impressive. Going to have to pay a little more attention to them now.
Really helped me in this project.
It is NOT a grapple substitute. That was my earlier mistake in thinking.
@@TractorTimewithTim That's kind of what turn me off to the four-in-one when I saw your video while back on trying to make it work like a grapple. I thought it was really weak in that area. However, you did seem to work well as a blade to move material on your front. I still can't make up my mind about these four in ones. Neil Messick should one on a larger machine that was more heavy-duty, but it still seemed to me that it had drawbacks.
Yea. I think the 4 in 1 should be way down the list of priorities for a subcompact. Too heavy. Not enough hydraulic flow to get full usefulness, etc. There are good applications for it, but a separate grapple, bu let and forks will solve most tasks.
Just my opinion.
Nice job. My neighbor had a uneven, water pooling yard. He was going to install a drainage system. I fixed that with a 110 garden tractor using a tiller, push blade & a spade.lol. It took me all summer. I had a pile of dirt about 15 ft diameter & 4 ft high. Worked out great.
You are a good neighbour.
Another good video Tim and Christy! Really beginning to see the value of a 4 in 1 bucket.
Nice work, spreading the impulse along the width is good work.
It was interesting seeing you using the box blade and the 4 in one bucket to show some of the ways they can be used to accomplish different tasks. I agree with your observation about the hydraulic top link use with the box blade. It really makes the box blade so much more useful. Also, I use the float on the top hydraulic top link when using my MX6 rotary cutter. Much more forgiving with uneven terrain, turning etc. Nice work as always. Blessings.
I really enjoy the drainage videos. Great solution for what the customer issue and budget which shows how respectful you are to each customer's situation. Another option which would cost tons more money would be like a dry rock bed along the property lines maybe down to the road or something, then could tie the drainage for the house into that and so he could most of his yard without a swell through it. But that would be a major time and expensive project.
That's a great idea. I'm guessing that the owner didn't want to loose the trees along the back fence, so they dug outside the root zone?
@@PatrickKQ4HBD that could be. Just depends on the situation.... our last house I worked with our landlord and neighbor due to erosion on the property line. She had a line of pear trees that had roots exposed.... we simply dug 2 to 3 inches and put river rocks in to drain into the lake every time it rained. Only smart thing the builder did in the subdivision had good drainage between houses... so it was easy to put the stone in. We didn't damage the roots that much only digging a few inches.
You can always find the need for a better or different tool to use. It looked great what side you worked on. You are a neat worker in that you leave the jobs as if it was always like that. Great work. Nice to see the wife in there doing a fine job also.
Absolutely love this! Your commentary and knowledge is the best! Liked, Viewed, Shared, Subscribed!
I am surprised with the land being soooo flat that the builders don’t build the houses up on a raised mound! Solve a lot of problems!
There may not have been a problem until the neighbour started irrigating.
Irrigation has nothing to do with it. They only irrigate in dry season, and then, not NEARLY enough to create runoff. Did you notice irrigation was on while we were there, and ditch was dry??
@@TractorTimewithTim no, I didn't notice the irrigation was on or the ditch was dry. Question. Is the water problem a recent thing or has it always been there?
Was there when Dan purchased the property. Likely there since house built.
Don't build houses in rivers.
Good morning, Tim you and your wife have an amazing channel. Offer amazing content, equipment demo, and overall amazing advice!! Thank you, Albany NY.
Hi Tim i think your tractor Universe is a very good idea . There are many things that i learn every day and i have been learning many things from Tractor Time With Tim. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Kevin!
That is an interesting project. I think you were bang on with analyzing that and then even running it through to completion. The last shot shows what a good job you did.
I get why you don't like your box blade. It is because your rear blade floats and makes it so your front blade always cuts into the ground. I have a landpride with a fixed rear blade and with the top link adjusted out I can set my blade on that rear blade with the front blade just off the ground pull load of topsoil across the ground filling in holes. The other thing you can do is set the front blade just off the ground while riding on the rear blade is work your way across an area you want level in a circular motion and it will get the ground pretty smooth. When you drive in a circular motion the leaning tractor will pickup on one side of the blade and work its way to the other side where it is off the ground by like 1/2 inch. This also takes off the ridges and fills in the valleys. I will also do this to level out a gravel parking lot that has small holes in it. I mostly use my box blade for final grading like this, not cutting into the soil so much.
I know absolutely nothing about equipment your running I watch several RUclipsrs and they all or most use a box blade to great success...push or pull the boxblade gets it done...that attachment you were using at the towards the end looked interesting...will like to see more
Nice work. I am wanting to get a small box blade for my garden tractor when I get the 3 point installed but I can already tell that I am going to have to take small bites at a time to get my projects done.
That's a great word of advice for us to not be so quick to judge the previous guy's work. We were not there when the decision was made to do things a certain way or know what variables and constraints might have been in place. Fantastic looking job! I'll have to check out the rear hydraulics because that hydraulic top link would sure make life easier. 👍
So correct about the tiller, 1 to 2 in lift per pass. The four in one or box blade would not have to plow. The rippers set 1” deep this day would have mimicked the tiller, but tiller better exactly what you said for final grading. In the day I really did some drains using a gravely rotary plow walk behind, and a ford 8n with straight blade, for tight quarters. All we had...
I could see the 4 in 1 bucket beating the box blade for this specific project, but there are still things the box blade can do that the loader can't. At least not as well. I would say the 4 in 1 bucket is particularly advantageous on the 1025R because you have so much forward visibility due to the low hood on the tractor.
I think drainage projects may be one of the most rewarding. You get to see if your work was good relatively quickly and it can make such a dramatic difference in the property.
In the past I have made dry creek beds using stone for similar drainage issues. 1 the rock tends to hold up better and filter the water and 2 it looks esthetically pleasing to the eye but of course it cost a bit to do the job as there is now a need for more materials so the people need to have a better budget.
Great job Tim! Do you plan to have a part 2 when you do the other side? I'd like to see how you regrade but maintain the levee and keep it mowable. I have a similar issue at my house, but it's just rain water runoff from my driveway.
The tiller is one of my favorite implements too!
Great project, the 4 in 1 bucket worked really well and using it to back drag 👍🏻. Have a great day 🙂🙋🏼♂️👍🏻
Man, that box blade is like a box blade on steroids! Very, very handy setup!
great combination the box blade and 4 in 1 ,good work
When you learn to use the box blade, you'll appreciate it more.
You can also use the 4 in 1 to grade with a depth gauge. Open it up all the way and use the front part as the gauge and the rear cutting edge as the grader. It works super awesome for cutting swell and carrying the material around to fill the low spots. You just tilt the bucket to adjust the depth your cutting.
i would like to see the finshed product. That 4 in 1 bucket is more useful than I imagined.
And I want a hydraulic top link soon....maybe Christmas this year
I'm about to start my biggest project ever with my tiller and box blade. I'm thinking a hydraulic top link will make my project a lot easier. I'm going to look into that.
Tim and viewers if you search youtube for international drott 4 in 1 there is a two part video with some great ideas and techniques for using a 4 in 1. Hydraulic tail wheels on the box scraper make it so much more handy for grading. I picked up a ford overland scrapper pan that I use behind my Kubota L3901 that I like more than the box scrapper provided there is enough room... wouldn't work so well on this tight job you had though.
Love the top link hydraulic adjuster.
Looking at getting a box blade for personal use only. Some other creators (Hamiltonville Farms maybe 🤔) advised getting one as a inexpensive soil/snow working solution. Thinking that if I get one I want a HD version and wondering how to incorporate a hydraulic cylinder? Live on a property that if I could sell rocks I could retire!!! 😂.
Also would you invest in a mechanical thumb for a backhoe attachment?
Ordered tractor in May and still waiting for just a build date. Thanks.
Intriguing job! Need the specific attachments to complete!
Love watching your videos!!
Great job! But why didn’t the previous guy make the the slew behind the fence instead of rite through the middle of his yard?
Behind the fence is not his property. Also, there is a pipeline under the ground on the corner of the property.
Ohh I c thanks tim
Hi Friends enjoyed the video have a day love from TEXAS
Great video Tim! do you have a link or part number for the Hydraulic Top link that you use? I recently bent one end of my factory top link by lifting my tiller with the ROPS folded down, and am looking to replace it with a hydraulic toplink.
Haven’t published a video on this yet, but I have located a great hydraulic top link.
AgriStoreUSA.com use code ttwt for 5% off.
For 1025r, you need cat 1 20-28”.
These have check valve to keep from leaking down. Get the hose kit with it.
Like the videos I tor up my mower deck hydraulic hose on my 1025r when I had the loader on
Tim, long time viewer from Kentucky. We met a few years ago at the Louisville tractor show. Following your advice of asking before criticizing, why were you operating the tractor with the loader so high in the air? I found sub compact tractors to be very "tippy" with their narrow tract width. Having the loader that high, it wouldn't take much to start to tip.
I was going over the fence or fence posts with the loader.
@@TractorTimewithTim ah, hard to see from the video, looks like you were just catching the tree. You make great content that me and my 6 year old love to watch. Stay safe and yes! We're subscribed.
Thanks for your devotion to developing the hydraulic kit with Summit. Will that kit and the hose length etc. work on a Deere 3720? Thanks and have a great day Tim!
It should. Worst case, you would have to buy an additional hose or two from a local hydraulics shop or DiscountHydraulicHose.com
To help slop the edges and move the dirt into a pile from what I have watch I think it would save you time in my opinion
I have a 4 ft box blade on my 1025r and really like it
Great video Tim 🚜 I really enjoyed this video 🇺🇲
Tim I'm trying to make a purchase decision need a box blade for occasional use don't need anything to hard core, also would like a larger capacity bucket for compost and mulch work, also light grapple work (rarely needed) ...now would 4 in 1 make me happy or is the grapple functionality just too poor to even consider ...just don't have room for box blade a new bucket and a grapple. Keep up the good work God bless.
skip the higher capacity bucket in my opinion. A standard bucket full of mulch is about a load anyway...and so what if it takes you an extra trip? :-)
💥 That house is in a tough spot. Hope what you did helps solve the issue. Great 4 in 1 action there.
*Keep on tractoring!* #ARITTERBITWILLDO
Nice job Tim.
Would love to have the single rear remote just for the top link. Love the content.
I wasn't sure if you still had the 4-1 bucket. A while back you used it and was not impressed. I have one and it has a place where material removal and placement require some finesse.
The impractical thought would be move the house, and yes I have done that
Please tell me about the storage box attached to your I Match and where to get one.
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Tim you need to run down the top of the ditch and angle the blade and you wouldn't have all that forward and back Number 2 you know you can push the Box blade till left or to the right With the spacers on the 3point
I think the box blade was perfect for that job!
Yep. Me too!
Can't wait for the next video on the final slope work
We have Mobile Home rental that had over 1/2 an acre that was below grade for both sides of the property and was a temporary holding pond until the water flowed into the flood pond behind the 3 properties.
I only had the FEL and BOX BLADE at the time and I learned a lot moving over 40 nine yard truck loads of dirt and another 20 loads of Tree Mulch to build up that low swamp without blocking the flow around the perimeter fence line to the rear
The backyard now has 80% useful ares instead of being a mosquito breeding pond
We had some really large rain falls for 3 or 4 days and most of the raids and yards got flooded
The trailer park next door of course got flooded and they called the United Nations Controlled (I.C.L.E.I.) Code Enforcement because of the dirt I filled in
I.C.L.E.I. is a United Nations controlled organization that tells the Local Government how Americans can use their properties.
Code Enforcement evaluated what I had done and told Me what I needed to do to allow more water to flow around Our property by making the drainage path around the perimeter wider and they came back and said I did as they ASKED and were satisfied that the problem was solved
I can't control excessive rains
Can you still use the backhoe with the Electric Dual Rear Remote Kit
Yes. Just plug them in …in series…in line.
I love Vinny !
Now you have me scared I'll bust the PTO shaft on every bump :) btw love the dump bucket :) So in your video I see the box blade taking off the top layer of grass. does that mean I dont need a sod cutter/remover?
No need for sod cutter unless you want to keep the sod.
Would a French drain situation not work here?
Would be entirely level, and allow less issues for the future?
I believe they would need 16” pipe to handle the water.
Very expensive. Customer can always do that in the future if they can afford.
This at least allows it to function.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thank you for humoring me with a response, Always nice learning the situations involved while spitballing.
I would like to see a box blade with wheels on it that you could mount on the loader.
Maybe I missed it, but what brand is that 4 in 1 bucket? That seems to work really well.
Frontier
Would it be an option, aesthetics wise, to have installed a 12” drain line and then cover it up with soil & sod?
Would likely take more than 12”
Another great, fun and educational video!!
That 4 in 1 bucket seems to be very helpful. Do they come in Orange?? LOL
I have got to check out the meet and great schedule and see how close y’all will be to Memphis this year. I’d love to get to actually meet y’all in person. I have been watching so long you feel like part of the family.
God Bless and stay safe!!
The Other Tim with Tractors
4 in 1 buckets do come in orange. My tractor has one.
Nice work in such a confined space!
A four in one could very well be in future plans. (And a 3rd function control valve)
What brand/model of box blade is that?
Thanks for sharing!!
Monroetufline.com not sure of model. Tell em I sent you when you call!
Great Job.
I need to find a hydraulic solution like that for my L4701… really need a hydraulic top link. Already have power beyond
This one will work. Might need to replace couplers to get matching size for your PB.
Does the 4 in 1 bucket have enough power to act as a grapple?
It doesn’t work very well on brush. Works great on certain things. It isn’t a power issue. Just a different design which doesn’t work perfectly for grapple type tasks.
Good to see the 1025r....
I want a top and tilt but it costs a few bucks. This solution seems like a pretty good value. Let’s see an install video 😉🤔
We’ve already done an install. “Meet the winners”
How is the regen/def work on the new John Deere tractors any issues or loss of power can you still operate it while it’s in regen mode ?
Can still operate.
Hey Tim could you show old equipment being used with new tractors
Can anyone point me to where I could order one of these hydraulic top links for my BX up here in Canada?
BX has shorter (18"-26") top link than 1025r, as well as a narrower lower end ball, so i am not sure where you get one which is compatible.
Wow good information. I didnt know you couldn't repel the water, its actually a law?
Yep.
So are the Versa Turf tires your recommended tires for the 1025r
Yes.
I'm guessing cost would inhibit the idea of having a inlet catch basin, buried tile ran to an outlet, allowing for a smooth or flat yard that does not have an open ditch through the yard.
Maybe…and it would have to be a HUGE pipe. Apparently this drains a LARGE amount of water during rains.
A catch basin and tile would need somewhere to transfer the water to quickly. Not only would it likely not execute as good as a swale, it would probably cost $3k-$5k at todays prices. For example, 18" ADS is currently $2k for 100' at Lowe's.
Would that summit hydraulic kit work on a 3032e with power-beyond?
Yes.
Awesome! I’ll have to get one. Thanks for all your great informative videos!
Yep. Nice general purpose kit. You will like it!
Remember code ttwt!
@@TractorTimewithTim I will, thanks for the quick response!
I liked the comment "a gentle enough slope so you can mow it." Sometime when you're in the neighbor hood you need to enjoy looking at my "gentle" slope that I mow.
Tim: Have you ever looked at the sod stripper attachment for the Ventrac?
I have one. It works! Don’t do much sod stripping. We showed it in action at the Ventrac Factory when we were first getting to know them.
Man youve got me convinced to upgrade tillerz Tim. How does the little 1025 handle a 5’ one?
Get a 4’
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll be upgrading from a 3’ self powered tiller (13hp engine on it) that inserts into a hitch. Now, my dealer told me a 4’ brush hog too, and I’ve regretted not listening to my gut on buying the 5’ every time I’ve used it now. The tractor has more than enough power for a 5’ cutter, and the ballast isn’t a issue either. I can put my 4’ cutter on and raise it allllll the way up, I’m talking the tail wheel off the ground 4’ itself and climb up it and jump (I’m 220lbs) up and down as hard as I can and I can’t hardly get my front wheels off the ground more than a single inch. So I’m very concerned on a $2000 dollar purchase that the 4’ or 5’ tiller question could have the same consequences that I’m living with now buy buying too small of a brush hog as well. I hate my 4’ brush hog, and it’s a “bad boy implement” brand of one. Not a cheep tool by any standard. I don’t want to live with the same mistake with a tiller that I feel is too small too. My track width on the tractor is very close to 48” anyway. I’d really like to have that 6” over lap on each side of the machine. I know you’ve ran a lot of stuff. I value your opinion and reasons on what you’d choose and why. Thanks man!
Nope. 4’ is the right size. Tiller pulls harder than a rotary cutter, especially if the ground is a bit wet.
Also, unlike a mower, you won’t be tilling huge areas.
We have probably a hundred videos showing the 1025r with 4’ tiller. Sometimes even the 4’ is more than the tractor wants.
Ok, I’ll have to listen then. The only tiller I’ve ever ran before is my dads 60” on his 35 horse yanmar red tractor, and that thing handles it no problem. Big power difference tho. I would try his out, but he’s got it set up for his quick hitch and he lives 3 hours away too. 🤷🏼♂️
I appreciate your wisdom Tim. Thank you.
What top link hydraulic cylinder are you using?
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@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks!
Great project! It's one of those "lots of ways to skin a cat" jobs. So much depends on what the camera just can't show, which is that +/- 1" grade change that makes water flow this way or that. I probably would've brought a backhoe for rough work and then the tiller or the legendary Ventrac to finish the surface prep. That box blade was just too big for that tractor on that particular project. Looks like you'll have to buy a smaller one... 😉
What would be great is they might be training workers to lay sod and his might be a training area. Teach them and he gets a discount in the process.
I'm interested in the hydrolic box blade you used in this episode name ,model and price. Thank you.....Rich
monroetufline.com tell them I sent you.
Liked what you were doing, But a tiller set at 2in deep would have gotten rid of that grass clumps and would not have to deal with it and then it would have graded easier.
we discussed that in the video.
Hell, you would think that because you have to deal with all their water run off they would hook you up with some free sod.
Tim, you always talk about extra weight. (mainly for tipping purposes), but in this case for slipping the wheels. but i dont hear you talk much about using 4wd. Do you use 4wd?
Oh yes.
👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🙏🏻 Enjoyed! Like that you have a hydraulic top link, makes the box blade a lot more useful. Been trying to get Mike Morgan to put one on his larger box blade, but he's ignoring me👍 You probably should have your ROPS in the up position, especially when you got your bucket up in the sky, just saying👍 "You need to set a good example"👍 Take care and be safe🙏🏻
Maybe take note that I was under the low hanging tree?
Good job on a big head ache
Tim, water is considered a common enemy in Indiana, that means Dan can build a levy, or do anything he wants to direct water off his property, and the only solution the neighbors have is to build their own system to send it back.
I don’t think that is quite what it means.
Dan has to accept the water onto his property as it would naturally flow that way.
He would NOT be allowed to build a levy blocking the water from his property.
@@TractorTimewithTim Please consult a lawyer. That is exactly what it means.
Been there, done that.
@@TractorTimewithTim
Here is directly from an Indians law firm
In its most simplistic and pure form, the common enemy doctrine declares that surface water that does not flow in defined channels is a common enemy and that each landowner may deal with it in such a manner as best suits his own convenience. Such sanctioned dealings include walling the water in or out, diverting it or accelerating its flow by any means. However, a landowner cannot collect or concentrate surface water and cast it, in a body, upon his neighbor. Pflum v. Wayne Cnty. Bd. of Comm’rs, 892 N.E.2d 233, 237 (Ind. Ct. App. 2008). Under the doctrine, it is not unlawful for a landowner to accelerate or increase the flow of surface water by limiting or eliminating ground absorption or changing the grade of the land, even if it causes the water to stand in unusual quantities or in other directions than the water did before. The common enemy doctrine applies only to surface water and not to a natural watercourse. Surface water is defined as water generally originating from rain or melting snow which is diffused over the natural slope of the ground, not following a course or channel. Id.
I don’t think that says what you think it says, but I will not argue further here.
@@TractorTimewithTim Tim,
As I said, consult an actual local lawyer. I’m only trying to argue through bull headedness to at least ask a professional.
I literally went through this myself, and my neighbor wasn’t happy I raised my grade, but the courts rejected his claims in summary judgements because he had no case in law.
Looks good! Too bad he didn't have the funds to put in pipe and topsoil to get a somewhat flat yard back :)
Well, it would be a HUGE pipe!
@@TractorTimewithTim LOL I have installed multiple smaller pipes for projects like that.
I don't understand why the ditch has to run right through the yard, why can't it be on the perimeter?
It could be near perimeter, but it has to be on his property.
in order to get a box blade to work in the way you wanted it to when you said "once again the box blade is being outclassed" you could need to tilt it back slightly so the back blade engages but the front blade not much or not at all.... that is how to scrap and flatten with it and not carry much, or ideally any, dirt with you as you drag. Leaves it nice and smooth. Sad to see ya talk bad about the box blade when it is seemingly user error.
But he needed to cut and carry dirt. He really needed the bigger tractor or a smaller box blade. Ah well.
HIs box blade has a floating rear blade so he can't let it ride on the rear blade. HIs is so aggressive they rate it at 50-75 hp.
w00t!
Not sure why this guy has to collect all the water on his property.
Common enemy law. You have to accept the water coming toward your property.
ROPS doesn’t work very good like that!
I suppose you missed the large tree we were working under.
Nice job Tim, keep the water away from the house... you can do this with the right equipment, 1025r, great machine...
Did Dan wonder why the house was so cheap?
Good grief. Dan knew what he was getting into.
Unless I am misunderstanding, your comment is just another one which “assumes the other guy is an idiot”.
@@TractorTimewithTim Just joking!