A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave
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- Опубликовано: 7 ноя 2017
- Surf’s up at an artificial California lake thanks to a slab of steel, cutting-edge fluid dynamics, and supercomputers. Learn more: www.sciencemag.org/news/2017/1...
Special thanks: Alex Poirot 
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It's only a matter of time before someone engineers the seafloor along a dead stretch of ocean shoreline and creates one of the most amazing surf parks in the world.
Benjamin Goodlich could make it so it’s larger than a normal wavepool so it’s worth it to wait
They've tried, many times. Never worked well. At the pool they can control the variables, in the ocean, nope. Ha
@@jorgearaujo1341 Yeah I don't know how you can engineer/recontour the sea floor when it's subject to erosion and storms and pounding waves, etc. I'm surprised they even tried. Who is this "they" and where did this effort occur?
Sea
Thank you for explaining how the wave is generated! I was curious!
Can’t wait for more of these so the good surf spots are less crowded
This could be good for training if you make it randomize some of the variables about the wave to simulate the ocean. Then surfers would be able to practice even when the ocean waves aren't so good.
Yeah I could see this getting boring for pro-level surfers very quickly. New surfers would love it though (aside from the cost).
Incredible! Fluid simulation at its full power!
Excellent video and information guys, I appreciate the no nonsense approach to your presentation 👍
What a game changer!!wow!!😮// Surfing in Olympics?? Hell Yah!!!
Can we invest and make one, too?
*So cool... Thanks for this! Was wondering how it worked...*
Cool to think about this in comparison to the forces that cause waves in the first place.
GREAT! Awesome to bring surfing to the world! Thumbs up!
There is a resort in Snowdonia Wales where they have a pool similar to this but it's two sided. I don't think it's as predictable or precise as this but it is really cool.
Can't wait for it to be public one day
A true magnificent feat of engineering!
I've known Kelly many moons, glad to see him after so many years of being a Lil not giving to the community to just all out giving with whole heart, shit I remember growing up watching him, he has made good on himself and family, communities around the world and all of us from cocoa beach we love ya bro. Glad to see him trully so happy.. Bless
Well........were waiting!!
Now combine Kelly's wave with The Venus Project city design.
20 waves wrapping the circle city, all day, every day, every city. Yewww!
I wonder how big they'll be able to make these man-made waves. I wonder if they'll be able to get into the 10-12ft. range and be barreling like a pipe wave or Indo wave or something like that.
Some of the best surfers in the world may be living in land and we might never get to see them, or they even ever know they can surf. With these kinds of inventions/realisations we can make those things become a reality. Build them everywhere across the world, make the waves scaleable from 2 foot to 8 foot and people will come from everywhere to ride them, every day all day all year.
And they'll still be useless in choppy, cross-shore, sucky conditions
Amazing!
I remember seeing JOB looking at a small scale wedging wave that he may create. can't remember where it was from though
When do we get a XXL Wave Ranch?
I hope they open 30 in Florida to move back again!!!
I over saw and ran a olympic sized pool and the cost are staggering thus the desolate test area. Combining complex moving parts, electricity and water + insurance, maint = very high rates to surf. IMO only profitable in a high tourist area 7 days a week, 18 hr days. Wish em luck.
Damn, that looks awesome. Perfect waves. If you can't get to the coast, this isn't a bad Plan B if you are lucky enough to leave nearby.
this is an amazing plan B. I live 2 minutes from the ocean and I wish I had a local artificial wave to train the 150 days/ year that waves are sh/tty
Cost: $10,000/hr
Not a very good Plan B🙄
What is that other lake used for? Waterskiing maybe?
Now we can surf in the middle of a desert. Welcome to the future people!
i like the surf where you bhop and strafe better...
If a surfer falls, is there any danger of the foil running them over? I suspect not, but curious how that risk was addressed? Every surfer in the world covets a chance to surf this wave. Kelly and his associates have proven science and personal dedication can deliver sucess!
Brett O'Keefe that’s precisely what i was thinking lol.
1:49 what’s wrong with a little backwash ?
if i could have one of those of my very own, i could die happy (after a year of surfing it of course! xD )
All the study in math and physics are...for this? Hell yea!!!
le-math 924 fluid mechanics is still somewhat uncharted territory when it comes to calculus based physics. As far as I know, experts still use empirical equations to model open channel flow
It would be amazing if they could slap this technology in a great lake.
great lakes already have waves
Why is hour it so expensive?
Go Cocoa! Apply that knowledge Slater!
What is cost to make that wave?
$25M
In my opinion I still think the most perfect wave is cloudbreak
Wow,
I first heard about this mechanical wave place in a Casey Neistat vlog. If memory serves he was invited there to surf for an hour.
kelly slater is the new Neptune
Lots of moving parts and energy to create that wave. I bet it's at least $100 a wave.
I had read somewhere that he uses solar to power this thing but I don't think that would be practical. I assume it would take somewhere near the power of a train to keep that wedge moving at that speed, if they are using solar it would take many acres and many hours to store enough energy for one wave. Would love to know if my guesstimates are right, they have be taking power from the grid.
Dang why is this comment section so hostile?
shut up
people hate change
surfers are the worst, they think because they can stand up on a fiberglass board in the ocean they're better then everyone else lol
@@chazmichael7967 shut up m8
Is this how tsunamis are artificially created?
I think Richard Dawkins put it best when he said: "SCIENCE: IT WORKS... BITCHES!"
Looks like art to me
Dawkins is a tool.
American waves machines produces a more natural wave that can be adjusted on the fly to produce a variety of wave types. This tech feels like you're surfing a boat wake, not a natural wave.
As artificial and perfect waves become commonplace, “ocean only” surfers will become the surfing worlds equivalent of a read climber.
At $250 per there's a lot to hate about this business model.
how much does it cost to run it?
less than it would costs to run the entire ocean, obviously
hhm idk, but considering the huge influx of surfers in the past 50 years has massively depleted the number of naturally occurring waves, so i think its great that we can now create them in a sustainable manner
mercotui can you explain how an influx of surfers would cause naturally occurring ocean waves to change at all? why would there be less waves?
pretty sure he was being sarcastic
Andrew Smith didn't sound sarcastic. Sounded dumb.
Keep in mind it cost $10,000 for an hourlong session
It is a very hot day in Bikini Bottom, and the Krusty Krab is seeing no business. The employees are annoyed being in the restaurant because of how hot it is and the fan stops working. To get some customers, Mr. Krabs moves his business to the middle of the sea at Goo Lagoon, where he, Squidward, and SpongeBob meet up with Patrick and Sandy. Patrick then tries to get on the board on which the grill is, but ends up tipping it vertically into a wave, sending them off to separate places: SpongeBob, Patrick, and Squidward end up on an island with young surfers, Mr. Krabs is stranded in the middle of the Dutchman's Triangle (which he identifies by red waterspouts, raining doughnuts, and still waters), and Sandy ends up on a small island in the middle of nowhere. SpongeBob, Patrick, and Squidward come across the locals, who claim to be junior college dropouts and take them to a hut made of bat droppings (guano), where they learn that the only way back to the mainland is by surfing. SpongeBob, who does not know how to surf, starts panicking.
Meanwhile, the Flying Dutchman accidentally rams into Mr. Krabs on his way home from the grocery store and spills his groceries. As a result, the Dutchman then tries to get money to get more groceries from Mr. Krabs by stealing his cash register (which he now calls Cashy), and a fight brews.
While this is happening, SpongeBob, Patrick, and Squidward receive lessons from the locals, but struggle to focus, until they are told to head downriver to see Jack Kahuna Laguna (aka JKL), who was supposedly last seen upriver. After a while of enjoying the sights, SpongeBob stops to retie his shoes but stumbles upon the cove where JKL was last seen. Patrick and Squidward follow him further and discover JKL, who they watch surf for 2 and a half hours. He later starts a fire and tells them to look into it, claiming that doing so will show them the secrets to surfing, but Squidward refuses, saying it is ridiculous.
Meanwhile, Sandy thrives by building a 5-star hotel, a helicopter, a steam-powered generator, a cappuccino shop, a coconut-milk-powered car, and a control tower, but decides to head back home. Meanwhile, at the Dutchman's Triangle, the Flying Dutchman gets hold of the cash register, but accidentally releases the tray, which hits him and sends him to Davy Jones' locker, where "Davy Jones" is revealed to be the real-life actor of the same name.
Back with JKL, the latter continues to teach SpongeBob and his friends how to surf, but during the middle of the final lesson, JKL leaves to head towards a temple, and SpongeBob and his friends follow. It begins raining as soon as SpongeBob and his friends hit the top, and JKL tells them that every 1,000 years or so, the planets align in such a way that the perfect wave forms, known as "the Big One," and that this time has come, and SpongeBob and his friends must ride it back home, or else be trapped on the island forever. SpongeBob and his friends are also told by JKL that the Big One requires a sacrifice to stay "alive" for the whole trip and that one of them will not return. SpongeBob and his friends head off to the Big One, but immediately, it eats up Patrick and Squidward's boards. SpongeBob allows them onto his board, when Mr. Krabs shows up and gets swallowed by the Big One, but JKL shows up and rescues him. Mr. Krabs then accidentally drops Cashy into the wave. JKL jumps into the wave to recover it, and as a result gets absorbed by the Big One, sacrificing himself allowing SpongeBob and the others to get home safely. SpongeBob then surfs them back home while playing a tribute song to JKL's sacrifice.
Meanwhile, Sandy crashes into Goo Lagoon in her helicopter, where the beach visitors mistake her for an alien. SpongeBob, Patrick, Squidward, and Mr. Krabs wash up a few seconds later, soon followed by JKL who somehow survived the Big One and they welcome them back home with a luau. JKL gives Mr. Krabs Cashy, and the episode ends with them dancing at the beach.
What if you're goofy and not regular?
you stand the other way round??
We have waves of fixing you 😂
444k likes and this video was made 4 yrs ago?
That's cool except kelly built it like a year ago
The "Perfect Wave" would never be made by a machine. Jaws? Mavericks?
Steve Deasy jaws and mavericks get big but far from perfect
dude those waves are not perfect
Perfect for me is cloud break
Pools will never create big waves like jaws. they focus on waves that are rippable rather than scary. I do agree that the perfect wave will NEVER be made by machine but I do think that they are great for surfing. Kellys just needs variety, gets boring after a while
foda!
The only problem is, being an unnatural wave, every one you surf steals a little bit of your soul. Surf too many and you'll go to hell.
...
People who don't like wave pools,be happy,if there is people surfing in pools, the ocean is going to become less crowded
I know , I'm just saying that for every person surfing in a wave pool there is minus one in the ocean (excluding people who live in places that are far from the ocean)
An surfer and an scientist... yea fuck no
You allso need an
Engineer
Arcitect
Planner
Funding
Producer
Construction workers
Material deliverers
And so on
wave equations arent linear haha
Too bad I've been hearing of these ever since Im 15yrs old. Now 20 years later the technology exists and it will be another 20 years before the average joe can actually paddle into a wave like this
There’s already a perfect wave... Namibia ( skeleton bay )
Buncha wankas
What a waste of energy
i will grab by boogie board instead its way more funner
Not as good as the real thing
The end of surfing...
I'm glad.... Less people coming to the beaches and learning how to paddle out or even be fit enough to paddle out. More waves for the old'school ocean surfers.
Ten years it will be much more affordable and the technology will be perfected.