The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo
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- Опубликовано: 10 мар 2019
- Wondering how you can catch the perfect wave? Dive into the fascinating and complex physics of surfing.
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Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.
Lesson by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust.
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View full lesson: ed.ted.com/lessons/the-physic...
Thank you so much to our patrons for your support! Without you this video would not be possible! Pavel Zalevskiy, Yankai Liu, Duo Xu, Ghassan Alhazzaa, Miloš Stevanović, Joy Love Om, Gi Nam Lee, Shawn Quichocho, Anika Westburg, Brandy Jones, Devin Harris, Tony Trapuzzano, Jason Weinstein, Kris Siverhus, Alexander Walls, Annamaria Szilagyi, Morgan Williams, Abhijit Kiran Valluri, Mandeep Singh, Sama aafghani, سلطان الخليفي, Marylise CHAUFFETON, Marvin Vizuett, Jayant Sahewal, Quinn Shen, Caleb ross, Elizabeth Cruz, Elnathan Joshua Bangayan, Mullaiarasu Sundaramurthy, Jose Henrique Leopoldo e Silva, Dan Paterniti, Jerome Froelich, Tyler Yoshizumi, Martin Stephen, Justin Carpani, Faiza Imtiaz, Khalifa Alhulail, Tejas Dc, Benjamin & Shannon Pinder, Srikote Naewchampa, Sage Curie, Exal Enrique Cisneros Tuch, Ana Maria, Vignan Velivela, Ahmad Hyari, eden sher, Travis Wehrman, Louisa Lee, Kiara Taylor and Аркадий Скайуокер.
This animation is really fluid. hehe
I sea what you did there.
@@user-rl4tg2mr9n I'm getting board of these puns.
@@nottherealpaulsmith Not me. I'm having a whale of a time watching ted-ed and surfing the web
Water you doin man, you are not supposed to comment like that while surfing on the web
@@Thepewdiepiebro5 You are now anemone to me!
I found this video while *_surfing_* the internet
No, taikamuna, not this time.
Very punny
wow , that was do funny im seriously laughing so hard because that was so funny , hilarious even that joke really needed to be made because it was so funny, im laughing it was funny so. funny. 😐
😂
Okay!
I really like the voice of the narrarator.
Yeah, who is it?
@@jeeuhmong1629 he is Addison Anderson
In my case, the physics of falling because I dont know how to surf ;-;
I read the title as: The physics of suffering
Same here.
Muhngkee Me too.
😂
Had to watch the video twice because I was so distracted by the amazingly cute animation :)
Oscar Hernandez me too
I think learning surfing is lot easier than learning science behind it😅
i'm a physics student and i struggle with my surfing abilities, i disagree.
oh no no, one of the hardest sports !
Ikr I’ve learnt it before surfing is pretty easy than science😂
i disagree
@@bhumikajethwani3051 pov u rode a 8 foot foamy
Ted-ed has always been a great teacher and channel for me. Thank you ted-ed keep making these kinds of videos because i love to learn new stuffs everyday💖💖
*_Surfer Dudes have joined the chat!_*
Where did these meme come from?
Hey, you again? Don't you have any work other than commenting on informational videos
Always wanted to know this. Thanks Ted-ed! You're the best!
The animation, art style and creativity is sooo good
The animation is LIT!! AMAZING!! matched by the narration and music! learning at its finest haha
This one was so energetic and positive, thank you so much! I love it!
Addison always does a great job with his narrations and the quality is good as always...
Ted-ed has always been a great teacher and channel for me. Adoooooooro.
Love how that water tank scene's animation took in the refraction of light
(1:30)
I love how whatever you thinking and want to know more about there’s always a RUclips video for it
Really solid educational video one again, can't get enough of these well prodused videos :D
This channel is just great, I’ve been watching it since a kid
Love the animation really made it simple to understand
Wow, amazing video! I particularly enjoyed the jumping water particles and the animated RUclips screen! :) thanks!
I love how everything is just happy in this animation
every TED-Ed video: good music, good diction and speaking, easy to understand concepts and education, amazing animation = i really want to learn surfing, good thing that i live in CA
The video I always needed for my life
I like this video. It has unique art, nice music, and hillarious sound effects
I just love these videos
The animation in this is incredible
Hey TedEd. I really, really loved your videos! They're educational and also not boring to watch.
Btw, can you please make a video about the science behind all of the infinity stones from MCU?
The animations are so good!
What a beautifully made video!
Oh ted ed I get swooned by your videos every time ☺
I loved the art here. I loved the physics too but fantastic job with the art
top notch animation as always!
Top big wave surfers are absolutely aware of the weather in the south Pacific. Or the weather in any of the oceans for that matter. They're constantly looking at the weather and ocean currents and fly around the world to where they predict the best waves to be
Yet , Another great video by Ted-education
Thank you mates
this is honestly the cutest animation style I've ever seen
The lesson is really flow in my head :)
Thnx for the info
Can you guys cooperate with Kurzgesagt? ;D
Collaborate u mean?
This was such a fun video!
Well done Ted Ed! Great video and animations but I found it distracting when trying to take in information over the slightly too loud music. Thank you for teaching us something new and interesting everyday
These animations are amazing
I loved this animation, for some reason reminds me of my childhood
.
Love the animation!
When TED-ED teaches better without pressure than real life Teachers
Do more physics videos like these
This animation is so good and positive
I love surfing in the internet and diving into Ted-ed videos
Awesome and informative video
excellent video.
This video is so satisfying-
I love these videos .
fantastic animation!
love the animation ❤
Awesome stuff!
Great animation!
The waves' faces give me joy
This is the first animation you guys have done with which the images on screen are distracting from the script. Had to watch it twice just to catch things I missed.
Great video and animation! Anyone know the program this was done in?
cool animation - lots going on under the surface of the board
awesome animations!
I really like physics. Dr. Hawker is a cool teacher. F=ma, d=1/2at^2 with a = 9.8 m/s^2 and when an object is starting at rest. Here is the force: F=ma, so F=m*9.8. F is in N and m is in kg.
People in this animation legit scary 😂
Thanks, this helped me with a physics assignment. Credit to TED-Ed :)
I love surfing. It’s been a big part of my life for years.
The drawing style reminds me a lot of the painting Abaporu by Tarsila do Amaral
Best channel ever 🙏😍
This was so rad
Ur voice is so pleasant and peaceful.......💙👍
The vioce over is very pleasant to listen.
Are there Oscars for videos.. it should be. This is amazing.
Ted-ed really awesome
CAN'T SIMPLY RESIST CLICKING ON A NEW TED ED VIDEO NOTIFICATION..
....AND ESPECIALLY ON A FASCINATING TOPIC
I love it!
So cool!
LOVE THX
The concept is such that it took quite a while to understand it despite the good explanation
This was really cool especially since I wanf to learn how to surf.
This is a sunny waving video😀😀😀😀
Very fun video
Can you do History vs. George III?
perfect!
Knowing all this I now feel even more proud of my shiny surfing Pikachu. :)
What does the fin under the board affect while on the water ?
lol interesting fin set up @2:26
Love the narrator!!!
Thanks
2:51 With the best barrels you can pull in and just get spit right out of em. And you just drop in and you smack the lip! Woh pah!! You drop down and sbaaaaah! And then after that, you just drop in and just ride the barrel and get pitted... so pitted...
Nice art
This is SOOO COOL!!!!!!
The physics of pole vaulting would be awesome
Good video
Totally radical my dude
I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf
This channel keeps teaching me things I never really think about .
Hello can anybody tell me how those kinds of videos are created? which programs are used? thanks!
Who could we contact about the possibility of using this video for an exhibit on surfing?
Can you makea video about Thomas Young
_ Because you mentioned that surfers seem to experience a shift in there perception of time when in the tunnel , our brains went crazy with postulations. Considering time dilation, considering the amount of mass in motion , in a spinning tube, where the velocity of the spinning mass is greater than the surfers forward velocity, and its water, consider it's weird properties ( water bridging ext ) . May be there is more to it than perception, may be it is time to put a very precise water proof atomic clock on some surfers arm, or some where ? ( use your imagination ) . Look for actual time dilation. Ps. We added this video to our Time Travel play list.
Wat software did u use to do the animation? AE or AN?