Ratchet rebuild kits are cheaper than whole ratchets. Given SnapOns lifetime warranty I'm guessing they want the failure point being on the cheapest easiest part to replace. Although when I fit a 3/8" anvil into a 1/4" ratchet body I'm expecting to be able to exceed the torque of same ratchet with 1/4 drive anvil. The tapered down design prevents this & I'm not so sure whether I like that. The tool user has to use a certain amount of judgement when using tools to ensure longevity and prevent failure. The reduced shank anvil I think sort of defeats the purpose of why mechanics started fitting 3/8 kits into 1/4" bodies in the first place. They would also fit 1/2" kits into 3/8" bodies in an attempt to have the smallest strongest ratchets possible.
I think it was client graphics when he'd used to post did a test on ratchets till break point. Most of them broke the 3/8 anvil before bending the handle. And even then, it was like 300ftlbs. If I'm getting to that point there should be room for a breaker or impact.
What I love about this channel is the thought provoking discussions on tools that you have sometimes. So many other tool channels just buy stuff to review, or worse, copy the same idea as all the other tool channels and don't add anything new. I've been on a deliberate quest to train the YT algorithm to show me smaller channels, and that's where I've become a little disappointed. None of them have anything original to show me. Guess I'll tune in to Doc every night and support this channel as always! Thanks for the great content.
I have the 3/8 anvil quarter inch ratchet. I use it for running tap chasers in engines I down at my job. The 8mm and 10mm chasers use tap sockets that are 3/8 drive. I do not need the torque capability of a full 3/8. It's convenient because of its size, and the fact that I do not have to use an adapter is nice.
The time you gain from using the exactly prefect tool for the job at hand... Is that time lost because you have to search through 20 different ratchets to determine which one might work best? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
How long does it take you to go through 20 different ratchets? We’re talking about seconds here not hours. Last time I check we’re trying to shave hours off how long it takes to do a job, not just seconds.
Personally own alot of Snap-on, Mac and Matco Tools. I like matco ratchets because the head is thin and can fit in tight area's. Haven't bought the new snap on thin profile ratchets.
I’m curious how many people have had a quality 1/4” socket or ratchet break? I think I might unconsciously switch to 3/8” if I have any doubts, so I’ve never had that happen. Do any of you remember any details (like socket size, amount of leverage, etc)?
I remember breaking a Snap-on 1/4” drive ratchet in my early days in the 80s. Can’t remember on what exactly but it didn’t break the anvil, it was a combination of stripped teeth & broken pawls. The cause was probably a certain amount of inexperience combined with the fact I didn’t have any 3/8” drive at the time, only 1/2”. (I worked on heavy equipment then) Don’t think I’ve broken a ratchet since though.
My friend was a gorilla he was 5-10 300+ he snapped a 1/4sk round head handle I'm surprised the guts didn't go first I know he did it by hand because it went through his hand when it snapped I think people are beating the wrong tool to get the job done
I have a standard length (6"?) 1/4" that I use fairly often and It started skipping a tooth a few weeks back. bought brand new off the snap on truck just 2 months ago. I dont remember doing anything particularly excessive with it. Could be bad luck, but I havent bothered warrantying it yet
When stuck for space, I've used 1/4in ratchets where I really should've used 3/8in for better access and have broken ratchets before - but that's entirely on me for not using the appropriate tool!
Dual paw fails above 280ft-lbs so if the head has not failed and the handle has I would look into hardening problems. Besides the soft grip breaks off with the pipe over the handle. Plastic handle only runs half way down. Steel may be the same but forging always gets messed up.
Just got a compact rebuild kit today to swap a power blue hard handle flex i got also. Get tbose hard handles while you can, they are becoming hard to get
I've noticed this as well - I've been using used FCF72's to make all my weird compact snap on ratchets since I don't have a local dealer and hey are easier/ cheaper to source, but recently I manged to get a new repair kit to make the exact same ratchet you've shown here and was disappointed to find that it came with that taper vs the FCF72 's I've been using which have no taper on the anvil. My guess is possibly they'd rather save the pawls in the ratchet from potentially sheering if over torqued by making the failure point the anvil.
The old style was basically perfect except for their ability to remain unlocked; I wish they would just re-design the handles to be able to remain unlocked when using them, new mechanism or whatever. This was bold but I hope it is a short design generation :/
One of my first Craftsman ratchets has an engineered failure point. It’s a 36 tooth gear with terrible backlash, very shallow gear cuts and only 2 pawls engage. 😂 Did a lot of automotive work early on when that was all I could afford, and even then it took some time to save up for.
@@robertcasey3528 not always. With some the teeth on the drive can shear off as can the teeth on the pawl. With a QR ratchet with a hole going through the anvil that's usually where they fail first.
The fire ball tool hard tail vice has a handle that has relief cuts in it. So if you put a bar on the handle it will bend and they know it wasn't used properly
I have some 3/8" anvil in 1/4" body in multiple roundhead ratchets and I wouldn't mind having that shear point in those. Especially since the teeth are built into the head of that roundhead design. It's not as easy as just throwing in new anvil/gear/pawl to rebuild it
Just checked another 3/8 in a 1/4 body the Koken 3725Z and it doesn’t have the same anvil reduction as the Snap-on. Also doesn’t have the same warranty and all that but it’s also a lot cheaper.
I don’t imagine they engineered that failure point. I believe the 3/8 internals would not directly swap into that ratchet head so they necked down the 3/8 anvil to make it work
Snap on tools are built to last a long time, not exceed ANSI standards by some ridiculous amount. Consider a tool's intended purpose. Smart people know not to put a cheater bar on a quarter drive and start jumping on it like a gorilla. I understand there are situations where you don't have much of a choice and you have to risk pushing the tool beyond its limit to get a job done, but for 99% of the time that is not the case. Most of my snap on ratchets are date stamped 2005 and 2006 and they still work like new. I know when to grab a breaker bar to break something loose instead of putting so much force on the teeth of the pawl inside the ratchet.
3/8 is useless I have tons of tools but I never bought this size, all is 1/4 or 1/2. Im just annoyed when its a 3/8 aku ratchet I have to use adaptor to 1/2
i don't think it is an engineered failure point, i think it's just to make the head smaller. if you make it thinner at the bottom, there is more space for the rachet mechanism and so on. It's still pretty thick, i don't think it would fail first.
I actually talked with a Snap On rep about it and his take was that SO was having to fix thoroughly broken ratchets and deformed cases. By engineering a deliberate failure point, it makes the warranty repair job faster, easier, cheaper, and more predictable. So that's what I went with.
TONE compact 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets are an excellent budget version of these styles.
Ratchet rebuild kits are cheaper than whole ratchets. Given SnapOns lifetime warranty I'm guessing they want the failure point being on the cheapest easiest part to replace. Although when I fit a 3/8" anvil into a 1/4" ratchet body I'm expecting to be able to exceed the torque of same ratchet with 1/4 drive anvil. The tapered down design prevents this & I'm not so sure whether I like that. The tool user has to use a certain amount of judgement when using tools to ensure longevity and prevent failure. The reduced shank anvil I think sort of defeats the purpose of why mechanics started fitting 3/8 kits into 1/4" bodies in the first place. They would also fit 1/2" kits into 3/8" bodies in an attempt to have the smallest strongest ratchets possible.
I think it was client graphics when he'd used to post did a test on ratchets till break point. Most of them broke the 3/8 anvil before bending the handle. And even then, it was like 300ftlbs. If I'm getting to that point there should be room for a breaker or impact.
What I love about this channel is the thought provoking discussions on tools that you have sometimes. So many other tool channels just buy stuff to review, or worse, copy the same idea as all the other tool channels and don't add anything new. I've been on a deliberate quest to train the YT algorithm to show me smaller channels, and that's where I've become a little disappointed. None of them have anything original to show me. Guess I'll tune in to Doc every night and support this channel as always! Thanks for the great content.
I have the 3/8 anvil quarter inch ratchet. I use it for running tap chasers in engines I down at my job. The 8mm and 10mm chasers use tap sockets that are 3/8 drive. I do not need the torque capability of a full 3/8. It's convenient because of its size, and the fact that I do not have to use an adapter is nice.
Snap-on, Snap-off
It’s yin and yang…
The time you gain from using the exactly prefect tool for the job at hand... Is that time lost because you have to search through 20 different ratchets to determine which one might work best? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
How long does it take you to go through 20 different ratchets? We’re talking about seconds here not hours. Last time I check we’re trying to shave hours off how long it takes to do a job, not just seconds.
It’s also a function of how organized and accessible your tools are…
Personally own alot of Snap-on, Mac and Matco Tools. I like matco ratchets because the head is thin and can fit in tight area's. Haven't bought the new snap on thin profile ratchets.
I’m curious how many people have had a quality 1/4” socket or ratchet break? I think I might unconsciously switch to 3/8” if I have any doubts, so I’ve never had that happen. Do any of you remember any details (like socket size, amount of leverage, etc)?
I remember breaking a Snap-on 1/4” drive ratchet in my early days in the 80s. Can’t remember on what exactly but it didn’t break the anvil, it was a combination of stripped teeth & broken pawls. The cause was probably a certain amount of inexperience combined with the fact I didn’t have any 3/8” drive at the time, only 1/2”. (I worked on heavy equipment then) Don’t think I’ve broken a ratchet since though.
My friend was a gorilla he was 5-10 300+ he snapped a 1/4sk round head handle I'm surprised the guts didn't go first I know he did it by hand because it went through his hand when it snapped I think people are beating the wrong tool to get the job done
I have a standard length (6"?) 1/4" that I use fairly often and It started skipping a tooth a few weeks back. bought brand new off the snap on truck just 2 months ago. I dont remember doing anything particularly excessive with it. Could be bad luck, but I havent bothered warrantying it yet
When stuck for space, I've used 1/4in ratchets where I really should've used 3/8in for better access and have broken ratchets before - but that's entirely on me for not using the appropriate tool!
Dual paw fails above 280ft-lbs so if the head has not failed and the handle has I would look into hardening problems. Besides the soft grip breaks off with the pipe over the handle. Plastic handle only runs half way down. Steel may be the same but forging always gets messed up.
Just got a compact rebuild kit today to swap a power blue hard handle flex i got also. Get tbose hard handles while you can, they are becoming hard to get
I've noticed this as well - I've been using used FCF72's to make all my weird compact snap on ratchets since I don't have a local dealer and hey are easier/ cheaper to source, but recently I manged to get a new repair kit to make the exact same ratchet you've shown here and was disappointed to find that it came with that taper vs the FCF72 's I've been using which have no taper on the anvil. My guess is possibly they'd rather save the pawls in the ratchet from potentially sheering if over torqued by making the failure point the anvil.
What’s the model number of the 1/4” ratchet body with the 3/8 anvil?
The old style was basically perfect except for their ability to remain unlocked; I wish they would just re-design the handles to be able to remain unlocked when using them, new mechanism or whatever.
This was bold but I hope it is a short design generation :/
One of my first Craftsman ratchets has an engineered failure point. It’s a 36 tooth gear with terrible backlash, very shallow gear cuts and only 2 pawls engage. 😂 Did a lot of automotive work early on when that was all I could afford, and even then it took some time to save up for.
When Project Farm tests ratchets to failure, they always fail at the base of the square. So maybe it's built in already.
The anvil usually shears off when it's a quick release ratchet.
@@TylerSnyder305 They all fail the same way
@@robertcasey3528 not always.
With some the teeth on the drive can shear off as can the teeth on the pawl.
With a QR ratchet with a hole going through the anvil that's usually where they fail first.
The fire ball tool hard tail vice has a handle that has relief cuts in it. So if you put a bar on the handle it will bend and they know it wasn't used properly
I have some 3/8" anvil in 1/4" body in multiple roundhead ratchets and I wouldn't mind having that shear point in those. Especially since the teeth are built into the head of that roundhead design. It's not as easy as just throwing in new anvil/gear/pawl to rebuild it
Snap-Ons that snap off...
That’s at least a grand in Snap On ratchets laying there…
What Does $1000 of Snap On Tools Look Like? More or less what you would expect. Mostly less.
ruclips.net/video/ZMAtjxMKQuk/видео.html
Just checked another 3/8 in a 1/4 body the Koken 3725Z and it doesn’t have the same anvil reduction as the Snap-on. Also doesn’t have the same warranty and all that but it’s also a lot cheaper.
Its only the new repair kits with the taper, I have a few older FCF72's that don't taper, much like your Koken!
Where can I get larger than 15mm 1/4 sockets I can’t find any
shop.snapon.com/product/Shallow%2C-mm%2C-Chrome-(1-4%22-Flank-Drive)/1-4%22-Drive-6-Point-Metric-16-mm-Flank-Drive-Shallow-Socket/TMM16
What is the part# for the ratchet?
FHC72MPRG
I don’t imagine they engineered that failure point. I believe the 3/8 internals would not directly swap into that ratchet head so they necked down the 3/8 anvil to make it work
Snap on tools are built to last a long time, not exceed ANSI standards by some ridiculous amount. Consider a tool's intended purpose. Smart people know not to put a cheater bar on a quarter drive and start jumping on it like a gorilla. I understand there are situations where you don't have much of a choice and you have to risk pushing the tool beyond its limit to get a job done, but for 99% of the time that is not the case. Most of my snap on ratchets are date stamped 2005 and 2006 and they still work like new. I know when to grab a breaker bar to break something loose instead of putting so much force on the teeth of the pawl inside the ratchet.
Could you give the part number please?
FHC72MPRG
@@lastbesttool thanks
3/8 is useless I have tons of tools but I never bought this size, all is 1/4 or 1/2. Im just annoyed when its a 3/8 aku ratchet I have to use adaptor to 1/2
Probably because you're a shade tree mechanic or a home gamer.
An adapter?? Say it isn't so!
@@chiphill4856 I pray to God OP doesn't work at a dealership or on rental equipment.
i don't think it is an engineered failure point, i think it's just to make the head smaller. if you make it thinner at the bottom, there is more space for the rachet mechanism and so on. It's still pretty thick, i don't think it would fail first.
I actually talked with a Snap On rep about it and his take was that SO was having to fix thoroughly broken ratchets and deformed cases. By engineering a deliberate failure point, it makes the warranty repair job faster, easier, cheaper, and more predictable. So that's what I went with.
I feel sometimes snapon reps make stuff up on the spot, but i guess it could be the case considering their generous warranty.@@lastbesttool
Definitely a sacrificial part.
👍😎👍
Have used that small 3/8 stock snap on head snap on for 15 years no issues.
Snap-off