To anyone reading this thread. The main problem with these "classic" bikes is getting some specialty parts. I've upgraded the usual stuff like V&H 4 into 1 pipes, LED Headlight, Glass Mat battery and some shiny bits. The one part I can't find at an affordable price is the Auto-Cancelling turn signal module (found used on eBay from about $450+). The original worked on one side but not the other. So, I bought and installed some programmable timer modules, one for each side, that when the turn signal switch is pushed, starts a timer to flash the turn signals 20 times, every half second and then auto stop. Else, if the turn signal switch is pushed again, it cancels the flash. It's usable, but not functioning like the OEM unit, ie: doesn't measure distance travelled. One thing of note is that LED Turn Signal Bulbs do not work on these bikes as the amperage draw is too low to light the headstock turn indicator. I kept the OEM wiring connectors intact in case I did find a unit so I could just plug it in. If you know of any salvage place or parts suppliers that might have this unit for $100 or less, I'd definitely look into it and thank you profusely.
Thanks for all your patience with my tube or tubeless dilemma. I did go Tubeless, got the rear wheel done and installed back on the bike. Ran into some "well, gotta figure this out" issues, but managed. Now, on to the front end.
@@CrustyCycle9317 Like making sausage.. Just enjoy the results. It's one of those stories you tell when you're relaxing in the garage, having a beer or two on Sunday evening with your biking buddies..
Nice. I bought a 79 gs1000e model new in 79. Traded in my 77 gs750 for it. Yes i still have it along with 2 78 1000e models, a 79 1000e to restore, a 79 1000 L model and 3 gs750s. Also 1 - 1000 parts bike and 1 - 750 parts. And a fun lil gs400.
Yup I have seen these seats advertised on ebay from Vietnam. God I was really surprised the guy said the seat base was made from hammered metal. When you see the pictures on ebay the base looks like it's made from plastic. The stepped seats just make the Gs1000 look 100% better 👍😁👏👏👏
I use to have a 1980 GS 1100 . It was a real beast of a bike for its time. I had to sell it because it almost killed me multiple times. To many close calls with death.
Sorry to take up so much space, but this is a great site for discussion on restorations. Maybe this cncerns you, amso. I've had a problem with "fuel rated" rubber hoses turning hard and stiff after some months of use. Where once they were soft and flexible, they are now hard and stiff to the point of not being able to push/pull the hose on/off a fitting. So, it turns out that Ethanol added to the fuel is the cause. I researched and ordered some 5/16" TYGON Yellow F-4040-A line for the tank to carbs, which is spec'd to be Ethanol Resistant. Since it is also VERY soft and flexible, I ordered a 1/4" x 12" Stainless Steel spring to insert inside the hose to keep it from kinking and cutting flow. I did find one local station that sells Non-Ethanol 88 fuel which I'll be using. There are additives that are supposed to cancel the effects of Ethanol, but I've never tried them. If anyone else has, I'd appreciate your comments. As for existing hoses that may be affected by ethanol, there is a product that can soften even hardened rubber hoses. It's ATP Products AT-201... Using protective gloves, just wipe it on a hose or let them soak and they will soften and become flexible. I've actually tried it and it does work. I also use it on all the O-Rings, Rubber Boots, Throttle Shaft Seals and anywhere else that the rubber, even hardened by age and not fuel, exist. I have seen no bad effects from this treatment. It is a checmical, so follow cautions and directions.
Great restoration job. Congrats. I owned one of those as well. However it was the base model with wire wheels and single front disc brake which I hated. Although handling was better than its peers of that era, it sucked and plagued with tank slapping high speed wobble north of 100mph. Air suspension forks were very hard to tune. Ignition timing were points which I changed for electronic ignition. On the plus side, the engine and the intact velocity sound with those same K&N's was awesome. I had do perform a lot of jetting changes to match the Kerker exhaust I had on it. All and all, it was a fun at that time but I don't miss it as I ride a Ducati Monster 1200R.
I hated the dual front disc brakes on my '79 GS1000E. These things would absolutely howl!!! It sounded like a braking semi!. There was nothing physically wrong with the brakes. They worked fine, the discs were fine, the pads were fine, they just made this horrendous noise. There was a spray compound to spray on the back of the pads to act as a cushion between the back of the pad and the piston. It did help, but the sound never completely went away. Changing to a different pad compound was the only thing that ultimately helped.
Just finished up a 1980 GS850G - yep, been chasing ghosts on those Mikuni CV carbs LOL - never trust when someone says, "it's been rejetted as an automatic good thing without documentation. There is so much fake chinese crap, cheap ebay carb kits, who know what they stuck in there. I ended buying all new K&L japanese kits and Dynojet upgrade kit. It already had a Vance/Hines 4 to 1 exhaust. Another thing, is chasing hard to find and no longer produced parts. IE the airbox to carb. boots. Impossible to find. I finally found a guy in Cal. that made them from the oem plans/mold. I sent him my 80.00 and a few weeks later I got them. They worked perfect. As anyone knows at least the 850 loves it's oem air box. That is, until the Dyno jet. Now, It likes the KN pod filters.
I picked up a 78 gs1000e. It came with a Vance and Hines 4-1 but stock airbox and filter. What size jets would you recommend. My carbs are clean but I have a hard/lumpy idle. Thank you.
It's been a while since I made this video but with stock air box, I would do this: Determine what stock jetting is supposed to be. Go up one size from that stock base line on the pilot and main. Leave the needle alone. Note baseline air/fuel screw settings, then adjust to them to achieve highest idle. Set idle screw where you your rpms at idle. Check carb sync (affects smoothness at idle). Then perhaps double check your air/fuel screw settings (this could change if your sync was way off). Reset preferred idle speed.
@@MirchiBoy Sorry it took so long, I'm trying to get better about that, trying to build my channel. I think I may actually be a little rich on the mains on my bike. I may put it on the dyno at some point really find out. Good luck
Looks great mate , you’ve down a good job , we had the same black E model down in Oz , pity you haven’t got the stock air box instead of the sucking air sound of the pods but you’ve got it sharper than most.
By far, the badest bikes out there, IMO, are the 1978-1981 Suzuki GS1100E and the GS750E models. My second bike was a 1981 GS750E, my first street bike was a 1977 GT750B. Those were the good ol' days!
@@CrustyCycle9317 We didn't realize how great we had it back then. I remember my first ride on an XR75! I had a Rupp Black Widow. You don't see many Rupp minibikes around.
Mine came with k&n filters and 122s burble out at 6500 I got some Biggers at 10 bucks a piece still lean started with the index drills I went with a super trap bike started better cold with open header a people can here you coming ! It would go to 10,000rpm and pop the front wheel a foot off the ground from 1000 rpm then my clutch slipped got a Barnet and a set of springs ! Mine only had 10000 miles when I got it but it did run
Well, I'm still not sure what's best. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Tube tires supposedly "blow out" when punctured and tube tires leak down when punctured. A punctured tube cannot be plugged on the wheel. A tubeless tire can be plugged in an ememrgency, long enough to make it home for a proper patch. I'm ordering a set of both tubes and bolt in valve stems with the option to use one plan and return the unused parts.
I went tubless, and yes, I did have to drill out the rear rim.And i'm not happy that I had to do that or the way that the valve stem fits. Use your best judgment. I have no recommendation either way.
@@CrustyCycle9317 Thanks, that helps.. At least I know I'm not the only one with this issue. I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a flat. But, at least I also have AAA towing for my bike.
The difference in the "E" model to a non "E" model is three things. Mag wheels, dual front disc brakes and self canceling turn signals. Your bike is non original seat, and missing hand rail.
There are several other things that are not as stock on this bike, but the biggest appearance items are that the factory airbox is gone (pods now), the plug wires and coils are aftermarket yellow Accels, and the turn signals are from a different model, probably later model, bike, look like maybe they're from an '81. The stock turn signals for '79 are round with a chrome finish, not square and black. The handlebars are aftermarket but other than being black don't look all that different from stock. I had this same '79 GS1000E (black with the blue and gold pin stripe) purchased brand new. They were unobtainium where I lived. The local Suzuki dealer still had six 1978 standard models with the wire wheels and single big front disk in stock at a time (early '79) when all the motorcycle magazines were saying they were completely sold out. I went to them and started talking price. They wanted, at that time, over $6000 per bike when the MSRP was about $3500. No wonder they still had these in stock!!! I started calling around, found my '79 E model in a small town dealer less than 100 miles away, made the road trip, and rode the bike home. Kept it stock for some time, then went with a VHR exhaust, Martek ignition, and a slightly fatter rear tire when it was time to do the first tire change. Don't remember the size (it was about over 40 years ago), but I do remember it barely fit in the opening at the front of the swing arm...but it was a great rear tire on a great bike.
I've noticed that with Ethanol Blended Gasoline, my rubber hoses, even those marked as Fuel Lines get very hard. even the Carb Overflow Tubes harden over time. Anybody else notice this? Anybody have any experience with the Ethanol "Neutralizer" additives like SAFEGUARD from LUCAS? I've found a local Circle-K Station that sells Non-Ethanol "88" gas at a premium gas price. I also switched over to TYGON Brand Yellow Fuel Line that is "resistant" to Ethanol Blended Fuel. Any ideas or comments?
When you're talking about brakes, specifically the brake fluid, doesn't this bike require DOT 5? The reason I say this is that DOT 5 was pretty new at the time (1979) and I was warned to make sure I used DOT 5 and never to mix it with any other type brake fluid. It stuck in my mind and I remember the sticker on the master cylinder saying the same thing.
Agreed, thanks for commenting. For decades I've used one of those cable lube tools that clamps over the end of the housing to force lubricant through the length of the cable. I guess I just use WD-40 because that's what's handy🤓
One more question... You mention that even with the bigger main jet, you feel it's lean. Do you think it's because of the Velocity Stacks instead of the Airbox so you get more air?
Did I say lean? It runs clean at all throttle positions and throughout the RPM range. However, I suspect it may be 1 or 2 sizes rich on the mains. It only gets about 38 mpg-hiway. I selected the main sizes by seat of the pants, wide open throttle runs, checking plug color. I just think I could go at least one size leaner main jet size.
Nice looking bike.. I have basically the same one.. Just curious what elevation you are at.. I moved from 1000' elev to 4600' elev. Bike runs rough now as compared to lower elevation. I'm told I need smaller main jets as it's sucking too much fuel at higher elevations. Do you agree with that advice? Thanks...
You probably need to go smaller on the main jets. I am at sea leve, and it's possible that my jetting may actually be at least one size too big on the main. My bike runs good on top, and I thought I had it dialed, but it gets somewhat poor fuel economy about thirty eight m p g
If it seems to run rich right off of idle, that would be your pilot jet, you may want to take a look at that also. In the video I call out some pretty fat jet sizes, but I am at sea level with individual air filters and a pipe.
Well, the process is ongoing. I got OEM Jets, one size smaller for the mains and new original size for the pilots. Getting it back together. Looks nice, But, a slow process as going through the manual for things I can check and adjust takes a bit of time.
@philatwood2086 I'm glad you're making progress. That's probably a solid decision on the main jet sizing, and you'll have the piece of mind knowing that your pilots aren't compromised in any way, as the pilot/idle mixture play such a huge role in the low speed character of your engine performance. I hope your changes make an improvement.
Just curious what I need to do to convert my 79 Suzi GS-1000e mag wheels from OEM Tubeless to Tube.. And Can it be done? Thanks to anyone who has done it and has any tips,,,
Other helpful resources I lean on are the Suzuki GS owners groups on Facebook. They're full of suggestions, some good, some not so much. There's a big community out there.
Now that I've asked the right question about converting tube to tubeless and done some research, this is what I've found. The online bike diagrams only show a Tube Type Assembly for both mag wheels. The hole for the valve stem is too small for a standard 11 mm automotive type valve stem. It happens to be 8.3 mm, which was used on older BMWs and some other brands. The trick was finding a bolt in valve stem because the rim is just too thick for the usul "pop in" valve stem, anyway. And they don't seem to make pop-in stems in 8.3 mm, at least I couldn't find any. So... I finally found and ordered some longer reach 8.3 mm valve stems on Amazon. Since i can't post a link, the description is "Circuit Performance VS43 Black Bolt-in Valve Stems 43mm (Set of 4)". I'm hoping they will fit so I can finish the new tire installation. Then I'll know if it holds air. I polished the inside rim bead in hopes it would seal correctly. I will keep you posted.
You can always one up . CBX is a cool bike too . Then you can find another that will make the Honda seem slow or old . These are classic bikes if you love them, they can’t be replaced by something newer . Maybe your friend will try out GSXR1000 one day and find it blows away the CBX.
Good info thank you.i have a 82 gs 850 gl.sputters when I open throttle replaced all the jets and rubber intakes.the coils are next.if you have any suggestions I would appreciate it
That's a tough one to diagnose just by description. Best of luck with it. Sorry for the ultra slow response. 🐌 I just started actually managing my channel.
Yeah, sorry about that. That was one of my first videos, probably 5 years ago. I think I'm a little better these days. I'm doing the best I can with a cellphone, a gopro, and boomer editing skills. Thanks for trying to watch the video 📹
All drain and vent lines route between the front of the swingarm pivot and the back of the engine cases. sandwiches train under the ground in front of the rear wheel.
Been there done that got them pretty close after bout 10 times !! Ended up using some index drills little by little till I got it mine was a neglected 79 gs1000 L model it came with adjustable rear shocks damper and springs front were air adjustable !! Bike really cornered well
To anyone reading this thread. The main problem with these "classic" bikes is getting some specialty parts. I've upgraded the usual stuff like V&H 4 into 1 pipes, LED Headlight, Glass Mat battery and some shiny bits. The one part I can't find at an affordable price is the Auto-Cancelling turn signal module (found used on eBay from about $450+). The original worked on one side but not the other. So, I bought and installed some programmable timer modules, one for each side, that when the turn signal switch is pushed, starts a timer to flash the turn signals 20 times, every half second and then auto stop. Else, if the turn signal switch is pushed again, it cancels the flash. It's usable, but not functioning like the OEM unit, ie: doesn't measure distance travelled. One thing of note is that LED Turn Signal Bulbs do not work on these bikes as the amperage draw is too low to light the headstock turn indicator. I kept the OEM wiring connectors intact in case I did find a unit so I could just plug it in.
If you know of any salvage place or parts suppliers that might have this unit for $100 or less, I'd definitely look into it and thank you profusely.
I'll keep my eyes open for that part, and thanks for sharing your experience with that.
Thanks for all your patience with my tube or tubeless dilemma. I did go Tubeless, got the rear wheel done and installed back on the bike. Ran into some "well, gotta figure this out" issues, but managed. Now, on to the front end.
All right, way to go.
@@CrustyCycle9317 Like making sausage.. Just enjoy the results. It's one of those stories you tell when you're relaxing in the garage, having a beer or two on Sunday evening with your biking buddies..
Nice. I bought a 79 gs1000e model new in 79. Traded in my 77 gs750 for it. Yes i still have it along with 2 78 1000e models, a 79 1000e to restore, a 79 1000 L model and 3 gs750s. Also 1 - 1000 parts bike and 1 - 750 parts. And a fun lil gs400.
I just recently picked up a 78 GS1000 that was left outside but after some work is now starting even if it still needs love love.
I got a 78 GS1000E...same color, all stock except for HD fork springs...great job, great info!!!😊
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. They're just great classic bikes.
Yup I have seen these seats advertised on ebay from Vietnam. God I was really surprised the guy said the seat base was made from hammered metal. When you see the pictures on ebay the base looks like it's made from plastic. The stepped seats just make the Gs1000 look 100% better 👍😁👏👏👏
I use to have a 1980 GS 1100 . It was a real beast of a bike for its time. I had to sell it because it almost killed me multiple times. To many close calls with death.
Glad you survived.
Sorry to take up so much space, but this is a great site for discussion on restorations. Maybe this cncerns you, amso. I've had a problem with "fuel rated" rubber hoses turning hard and stiff after some months of use. Where once they were soft and flexible, they are now hard and stiff to the point of not being able to push/pull the hose on/off a fitting. So, it turns out that Ethanol added to the fuel is the cause. I researched and ordered some 5/16" TYGON Yellow F-4040-A line for the tank to carbs, which is spec'd to be Ethanol Resistant. Since it is also VERY soft and flexible, I ordered a 1/4" x 12" Stainless Steel spring to insert inside the hose to keep it from kinking and cutting flow. I did find one local station that sells Non-Ethanol 88 fuel which I'll be using. There are additives that are supposed to cancel the effects of Ethanol, but I've never tried them. If anyone else has, I'd appreciate your comments.
As for existing hoses that may be affected by ethanol, there is a product that can soften even hardened rubber hoses. It's ATP Products AT-201... Using protective gloves, just wipe it on a hose or let them soak and they will soften and become flexible. I've actually tried it and it does work. I also use it on all the O-Rings, Rubber Boots, Throttle Shaft Seals and anywhere else that the rubber, even hardened by age and not fuel, exist. I have seen no bad effects from this treatment. It is a checmical, so follow cautions and directions.
I use the blue Motion Pro hose, It's "okay".
Well that's beautiful bike 😊
Thanks, I really appreciate that.
Great restoration job. Congrats. I owned one of those as well. However it was the base model with wire wheels and single front disc brake which I hated. Although handling was better than its peers of that era, it sucked and plagued with tank slapping high speed wobble north of 100mph. Air suspension forks were very hard to tune. Ignition timing were points which I changed for electronic ignition. On the plus side, the engine and the intact velocity sound with those same K&N's was awesome. I had do perform a lot of jetting changes to match the Kerker exhaust I had on it. All and all, it was a fun at that time but I don't miss it as I ride a Ducati Monster 1200R.
I hated the dual front disc brakes on my '79 GS1000E. These things would absolutely howl!!! It sounded like a braking semi!. There was nothing physically wrong with the brakes. They worked fine, the discs were fine, the pads were fine, they just made this horrendous noise. There was a spray compound to spray on the back of the pads to act as a cushion between the back of the pad and the piston. It did help, but the sound never completely went away. Changing to a different pad compound was the only thing that ultimately helped.
That's interesting, I guess i've been lucky, mine are quiet.
We use to make a homemade carb sink with mercery and plastic aquarium hose on a piece of wood with lines on them .
That's innovative. Now I need one with 6 hoses, CBX
Love them ! One of my favorite motorcycle of all time !
Just finished up a 1980 GS850G - yep, been chasing ghosts on those Mikuni CV carbs LOL - never trust when someone says, "it's been rejetted as an automatic good thing without documentation. There is so much fake chinese crap, cheap ebay carb kits, who know what they stuck in there. I ended buying all new K&L japanese kits and Dynojet upgrade kit. It already had a Vance/Hines 4 to 1 exhaust.
Another thing, is chasing hard to find and no longer produced parts. IE the airbox to carb. boots. Impossible to find. I finally found a guy in Cal. that made them from the oem plans/mold. I sent him my 80.00 and a few weeks later I got them. They worked perfect. As anyone knows at least the 850 loves it's oem air box. That is, until the Dyno jet. Now, It likes the KN pod filters.
I picked up a 78 gs1000e. It came with a Vance and Hines 4-1 but stock airbox and filter. What size jets would you recommend. My carbs are clean but I have a hard/lumpy idle. Thank you.
It's been a while since I made this video but with stock air box, I would do this:
Determine what stock jetting is supposed to be. Go up one size from that stock base line on the pilot and main. Leave the needle alone. Note baseline air/fuel screw settings, then adjust to them to achieve highest idle. Set idle screw where you your rpms at idle.
Check carb sync (affects smoothness at idle).
Then perhaps double check your air/fuel screw settings (this could change if your sync was way off).
Reset preferred idle speed.
@@CrustyCycle9317 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes
@@MirchiBoy Sorry it took so long, I'm trying to get better about that, trying to build my channel. I think I may actually be a little rich on the mains on my bike. I may put it on the dyno at some point really find out.
Good luck
Looks great mate , you’ve down a good job , we had the same black E model down in Oz ,
pity you haven’t got the stock air box instead of the sucking air sound of the pods
but you’ve got it sharper than most.
Very cool bikes, thanks for commenting 👍
I ran the open megaphone pipe on the 4 into one. It woke up everyone on my block at 5:30 am when I left for work. LOL
I'll have to try that!
E is associated with chain drive
G is associated with shaft drive
When those came out they would just cream any KZ to that point in 78 those were maybe the fastest bike around.
I agree, and better handling, too. I've got another one down in the barn that's ready to be resurrected. Thanks for commenting and subscribing 👍
By far, the badest bikes out there, IMO, are the 1978-1981 Suzuki GS1100E and the GS750E models. My second bike was a 1981 GS750E, my first street bike was a 1977 GT750B. Those were the good ol' days!
Yeah, we were lucky to be able to ride all the iconic bikes when we were younger.
@@CrustyCycle9317 We didn't realize how great we had it back then. I remember my first ride on an XR75! I had a Rupp Black Widow. You don't see many Rupp minibikes around.
XR 75's are quite valuable these days. New video available in about an hour, a bunch more bikes.
My gs 1000 ...bottomed out on 3000 rpms...so i drilled the main jets ..man she pulls like a freight train
Mine came with k&n filters and 122s burble out at 6500 I got some Biggers at 10 bucks a piece still lean started with the index drills I went with a super trap bike started better cold with open header a people can here you coming ! It would go to 10,000rpm and pop the front wheel a foot off the ground from 1000 rpm then my clutch slipped got a Barnet and a set of springs ! Mine only had 10000 miles when I got it but it did run
I use the Berryman 1 gallon soak can.
That's a good product. I do have a can, seems to work best warmed up.
Well, I'm still not sure what's best. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Tube tires supposedly "blow out" when punctured and tube tires leak down when punctured. A punctured tube cannot be plugged on the wheel. A tubeless tire can be plugged in an ememrgency, long enough to make it home for a proper patch. I'm ordering a set of both tubes and bolt in valve stems with the option to use one plan and return the unused parts.
I went tubless, and yes, I did have to drill out the rear rim.And i'm not happy that I had to do that or the way that the valve stem fits. Use your best judgment. I have no recommendation either way.
@@CrustyCycle9317 Thanks, that helps.. At least I know I'm not the only one with this issue. I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a flat. But, at least I also have AAA towing for my bike.
@philatwood2086 You're welcome 😊
Nice bike I just acquired a 79 gs1000s with jetting issues
The difference in the "E" model to a non "E" model is three things. Mag wheels, dual front disc brakes and self canceling turn signals. Your bike is non original seat, and missing hand rail.
He says that in the video , about the seat . Agree about the other points you made . Used to own the identical bike,including colour , to this one.
There are several other things that are not as stock on this bike, but the biggest appearance items are that the factory airbox is gone (pods now), the plug wires and coils are aftermarket yellow Accels, and the turn signals are from a different model, probably later model, bike, look like maybe they're from an '81. The stock turn signals for '79 are round with a chrome finish, not square and black. The handlebars are aftermarket but other than being black don't look all that different from stock.
I had this same '79 GS1000E (black with the blue and gold pin stripe) purchased brand new. They were unobtainium where I lived. The local Suzuki dealer still had six 1978 standard models with the wire wheels and single big front disk in stock at a time (early '79) when all the motorcycle magazines were saying they were completely sold out. I went to them and started talking price. They wanted, at that time, over $6000 per bike when the MSRP was about $3500. No wonder they still had these in stock!!!
I started calling around, found my '79 E model in a small town dealer less than 100 miles away, made the road trip, and rode the bike home. Kept it stock for some time, then went with a VHR exhaust, Martek ignition, and a slightly fatter rear tire when it was time to do the first tire change. Don't remember the size (it was about over 40 years ago), but I do remember it barely fit in the opening at the front of the swing arm...but it was a great rear tire on a great bike.
That's good stuff. Thank you for your comments.
I've noticed that with Ethanol Blended Gasoline, my rubber hoses, even those marked as Fuel Lines get very hard. even the Carb Overflow Tubes harden over time.
Anybody else notice this? Anybody have any experience with the Ethanol "Neutralizer" additives like SAFEGUARD from LUCAS?
I've found a local Circle-K Station that sells Non-Ethanol "88" gas at a premium gas price.
I also switched over to TYGON Brand Yellow Fuel Line that is "resistant" to Ethanol Blended Fuel.
Any ideas or comments?
Try to source 92 octane ethanol free. It's about $5.50 a gallon in Tacoma.
When you're talking about brakes, specifically the brake fluid, doesn't this bike require DOT 5? The reason I say this is that DOT 5 was pretty new at the time (1979) and I was warned to make sure I used DOT 5 and never to mix it with any other type brake fluid. It stuck in my mind and I remember the sticker on the master cylinder saying the same thing.
Just dot 3
The seat doesn't fit at all? Nice price but a big NO, in my opinion.
It has calmed down over time, but yes, it's still a bit of a brick...
IMHO WD40 is not a good cable lube. It may feel good initially but won't last long. Engine oil is a much better lubricant for your cables.
Agreed, thanks for commenting. For decades I've used one of those cable lube tools that clamps over the end of the housing to force lubricant through the length of the cable. I guess I just use WD-40 because that's what's handy🤓
One more question... You mention that even with the bigger main jet, you feel it's lean. Do you think it's because of the Velocity Stacks instead of the Airbox so you get more air?
Did I say lean? It runs clean at all throttle positions and throughout the RPM range. However, I suspect it may be 1 or 2 sizes rich on the mains. It only gets about 38 mpg-hiway. I selected the main sizes by seat of the pants, wide open throttle runs, checking plug color. I just think I could go at least one size leaner main jet size.
Yes, the pod filters generally require richer jetting.
@@CrustyCycle9317 I'm old.. you might have said "clean" and I heard "lean"...
@philatwood2086 maybe that, or I misspoke? No worries 👍
@@CrustyCycle9317 I don't know if you mispoke, but my wife is always telling me I don't hear her...
Nice looking bike.. I have basically the same one.. Just curious what elevation you are at.. I moved from 1000' elev to 4600' elev. Bike runs rough now as compared to lower elevation. I'm told I need smaller main jets as it's sucking too much fuel at higher elevations. Do you agree with that advice? Thanks...
You probably need to go smaller on the main jets. I am at sea leve, and it's possible that my jetting may actually be at least one size too big on the main. My bike runs good on top, and I thought I had it dialed, but it gets somewhat poor fuel economy about thirty eight m p g
If it seems to run rich right off of idle, that would be your pilot jet, you may want to take a look at that also. In the video I call out some pretty fat jet sizes, but I am at sea level with individual air filters and a pipe.
@@CrustyCycle9317thanks.. that helps...
Well, the process is ongoing. I got OEM Jets, one size smaller for the mains and new original size for the pilots. Getting it back together. Looks nice, But, a slow process as going through the manual for things I can check and adjust takes a bit of time.
@philatwood2086 I'm glad you're making progress. That's probably a solid decision on the main jet sizing, and you'll have the piece of mind knowing that your pilots aren't compromised in any way, as the pilot/idle mixture play such a huge role in the low speed character of your engine performance. I hope your changes make an improvement.
Just curious what I need to do to convert my 79 Suzi GS-1000e mag wheels from OEM Tubeless to Tube.. And Can it be done? Thanks to anyone who has done it and has any tips,,,
Just take the valve stem out and throw a tube in.
Wow!! my original question was all backwards.. I want to convert from Tube to Tubeless. Note to self.. Proofread comments before posting..
@philatwood2086 I'm not sure how to do that.
Other helpful resources I lean on are the Suzuki GS owners groups on Facebook. They're full of suggestions, some good, some not so much. There's a big community out there.
Now that I've asked the right question about converting tube to tubeless and done some research, this is what I've found. The online bike diagrams only show a Tube Type Assembly for both mag wheels. The hole for the valve stem is too small for a standard 11 mm automotive type valve stem. It happens to be 8.3 mm, which was used on older BMWs and some other brands. The trick was finding a bolt in valve stem because the rim is just too thick for the usul "pop in" valve stem, anyway. And they don't seem to make pop-in stems in 8.3 mm, at least I couldn't find any. So... I finally found and ordered some longer reach 8.3 mm valve stems on Amazon. Since i can't post a link, the description is "Circuit Performance VS43 Black Bolt-in Valve Stems 43mm (Set of 4)". I'm hoping they will fit so I can finish the new tire installation. Then I'll know if it holds air. I polished the inside rim bead in hopes it would seal correctly. I will keep you posted.
Wonder if that seat would fit an 80 gs1000g
My close friend has the Suzuki gs1000 he thought it was fantastic till he had a Go of a Honda cbx shortly after he traded it in for a Honda cbx
You can always one up . CBX is a cool bike too . Then you can find another that will make the Honda seem slow or old . These are classic bikes if you love them, they can’t be replaced by something newer . Maybe your friend will try out GSXR1000 one day and find it blows away the CBX.
Good info thank you.i have a 82 gs 850 gl.sputters when I open throttle replaced all the jets and rubber intakes.the coils are next.if you have any suggestions I would appreciate it
That's a tough one to diagnose just by description. Best of luck with it. Sorry for the ultra slow response. 🐌
I just started actually managing my channel.
jiggling camera makes this fine video unwatchable, get a tripod
Yeah, sorry about that. That was one of my first videos, probably 5 years ago. I think I'm a little better these days. I'm doing the best I can with a cellphone, a gopro, and boomer editing skills. Thanks for trying to watch the video 📹
Hello
Can you please tell me where the green lines goes to ?
I got the ones on my gs just hanging and it’s leaking gas
All drain and vent lines route between the front of the swingarm pivot and the back of the engine cases. sandwiches train under the ground in front of the rear wheel.
Clean the float needles and seats. Vent hoses should route between back of engine/front of swing arm.
Mine is so rich that the rpms don't drop when I let off the gas and hit the clutch 😭
That doesn't sound like a rich condition. 🤔
Change those wires.
I know they're ugly.
The original air box is missing also. I dont like it with k&n filters, original worked fine.
Been there done that got them pretty close after bout 10 times !! Ended up using some index drills little by little till I got it mine was a neglected 79 gs1000 L model it came with adjustable rear shocks damper and springs front were air adjustable !! Bike really cornered well