To get more water out from the bottoms of the barrels, put a couple elbows together, inside them, so the inlet of the pvc ends up pointed down towards the bottom, and only a half to a quarter inch off the bottom. The syphon caused by gravity will keep the suction , past the current level can drop.
I did the whole weight calculations of the bins full of water as well as the kreg screw loads. You won’t even be coming close to Loading this setup. This was put together in the same fashion as my bigger setup when it comes to hardware and joint types.
I watch all your videos but this time you’ve really inspired me, I’ve never thought about a mixing station but I guess it would make my life so much easier, so thanks for the video I love them, your always really informative and always look forward to the next one coming, anyway see you soon on your next video, thanks Colin 🏴
I’m planning on setting up a new tank soon. I don’t think I’ll be setting up my own mixing station yet but I loved watching your DIY! I built my dogs a 6x9x9 shed when my family and I moved did the roofing and vinyl flooring and insulation myself so I appreciate seeing people do their own projects! Never done any sort of plumbing before but I will definitely be coming back to your channel when I decide to do that project! Great stuff!!
Might want to speak to why a pocket screw is superior to a butt joint. With everything layed out, it seems trivial to just nail things together ... but it would become unstable overtime and never last with that weight, especially on cement that will transfer vibrations, etc. Never nail or screw into the grain (eg, butt joint)
@@eatsleepreef9565 Didnt know they were that strong? Although if the screws rust the joints could fail. 20 gallons is still a decent amount of water you wouldn't want on your floor unless its in a garage or basement?
Love it but you should put plywood on the 2 - 2x4 that the trash cans are sitting on. Make go to the outer edge of the 2 outer 2x4s, that will support the wait of all that water. Water weighs about 7 lbs per gal so about 140 pounds or so. Very good design thanks for posting.
Looks good. I'm going to do something a little different with a pump to mix salt but I am interested in those pvc holders. I don't see your email but wiill you give out the fusion360 file so I can alter it a bit without having to do a complete design from scratch? I can print myself.
All plastic trash cans tend to have the same plastic rating ( I checked when I was there). The grey brute cans aren’t food grade either. You would have to go with ones that I got to be food grade for my personal mixing station
Remember to check description for products used as well as link to containers and Other stuff purchased form amazon. Keep in mind you can totally make a setup under $100 assuming you go with smaller containers.
In case you're not understanding my question it's the part of the pipe that is on the outside that 90's back up wouldn't the trash can inside stopping that level on the inside of the trash can so if that was a 20 gallon of can you would probably only get to do a 15 gallon water change you for take
@@BALD8BIL when I checked it left almost 2g in it. Again my $1500 setup always leaves 5-6g inside just bc where the factory places the bulkheads. You can change the design if you wish. This video was made to get people thinking and not intended to do exactly as I did. Think of it as a way to expand the mind 😊
@@marcjoseph1124 Right, I'd agree a lid on a saltwater mixing station would be ideal to prevent the splashing. A quick and dirty option is to drill a hole in the lid and then cut a slit from the middle hole to the outside edge so it can be split and twisted just enough to wrap around a pipe. A better solution would be to use a union fitting to allow two sections of pipe to screw together or apart as needed to separate cemented pipe sections. A slip fitting with piece of pipe works but will come loose eventually spilling water everywhere unfortunately.
While I greatly appreciate the tutorial, I built this unit and all went well EXCEPT that fusion glue. That stuff is horrible. Mine has never fully dried as I can still smell significant fumes a week later. I actually Plummer it all, waited 24 hours, then started filling the ro and saltwater bins. Nothing leaked, and I thought all was well. Tried the bucket spicket and immediately smelled very strong glue fumes. Dumped all the water, pulled everything apart and dried it for 2 more days. Still fumes. Waited 4 more days and had it outside in the sun and wind. Still fumes. The glue is to be avoided. Going back to two part.
Sweet video really like the how to do you have a question for you on the bottom container where the pipe comes out of the bottom of the trash can and the 90s back up would that only allow you to get what's in the upper part of the trash can until it levels out or will it allow you to get all of it or would you recommend having a pump
@@eatsleepreef9565 i think he means that at the bottom bend of pvc, it has to go down and then up to go out. In order to do so, the water in the bin will have to be higher than the pvc. Which means when you run out, that water won't exit until you make a new batch. It has to even out. (Difficult to explain but i had the same thought)
I think I get it. And yes since it’s going up it will only drain to that line. So yet it will leave some water but honestly not a lot. My big bins always leave 5g inside. If it really bugs you the best bet is make the bottom feet higher. But then again your limited to the height of the uniseal and Pvc thAt slips into it.
To get more water out from the bottoms of the barrels, put a couple elbows together, inside them, so the inlet of the pvc ends up pointed down towards the bottom, and only a half to a quarter inch off the bottom. The syphon caused by gravity will keep the suction , past the current level can drop.
This is epic. Thank you so much. 😊
🤙🏼😊
Enjoy the system.
I would recommend making the upright legs from one piece of wood.. garbage cans full of water weigh a bunch
I did the whole weight calculations of the bins full of water as well as the kreg screw loads. You won’t even be coming close to Loading this setup. This was put together in the same fashion as my bigger setup when it comes to hardware and joint types.
Awesome video,! Cant wait for the upgrade version which is the one I am interested in! Thank you so much for making this!
Same here!
Just ordered everything now all I need is 2x4s and the video on how to hook up a pump
I watch all your videos but this time you’ve really inspired me, I’ve never thought about a mixing station but I guess it would make my life so much easier, so thanks for the video I love them, your always really informative and always look forward to the next one coming, anyway see you soon on your next video, thanks Colin 🏴
Thanks man glad I inspired you 🤙🏼😊
I’m planning on setting up a new tank soon. I don’t think I’ll be setting up my own mixing station yet but I loved watching your DIY! I built my dogs a 6x9x9 shed when my family and I moved did the roofing and vinyl flooring and insulation myself so I appreciate seeing people do their own projects! Never done any sort of plumbing before but I will definitely be coming back to your channel when I decide to do that project! Great stuff!!
awesome video. Great stand and great system that explains the fundamentals of a system like this!
You are always so organize and clean. I wish I could be as amazing as you!!!!!
Might want to speak to why a pocket screw is superior to a butt joint. With everything layed out, it seems trivial to just nail things together ... but it would become unstable overtime and never last with that weight, especially on cement that will transfer vibrations, etc. Never nail or screw into the grain (eg, butt joint)
Looks really nice and fully functional, Reef and Chill lettering in blue looks excellent!
I would add a plywood top to add some strength and protect 2x4s
Can totally add it for extra. The kreg joints are rated for over 1000lb which we won’t even come close too.
@@eatsleepreef9565 Didnt know they were that strong? Although if the screws rust the joints could fail. 20 gallons is still a decent amount of water you wouldn't want on your floor unless its in a garage or basement?
Ya no for sure it wouldn’t hurt to add them for extra security
Because all the weight is on those 2 2x4 other that it is good
@@Bamacher59 Exactly!
THIS. IS. AMAZING!!!!! Building my cart now.
Great video , thank you 👍🏻
thank you for sharing! Im going to be doing this build shortly
Nice work Antonio! Thxs for the video.
Really good video and easy instructions for even someone like me to do.👍👍
Love it but you should put plywood on the 2 - 2x4 that the trash cans are sitting on. Make go to the outer edge of the 2 outer 2x4s, that will support the wait of all that water. Water weighs about 7 lbs per gal so about 140 pounds or so. Very good design thanks for posting.
If you go with these tanks you are fine. Kreg joints are rated for over 1000lb. But if you really want to add it that won’t hurt at all 🤙🏼
Looks great Antonio. Definitely a nice mixing station on a budget!!
Nice!!
I like your 3-D product ... very nice.
This is awesome. Thanks!
Awesome! Exactly what I was looking for :-)
Great video as always 👍
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Are you still making the pipe supports?
Did you ever make the upgraded version with the pump?
Looks good. I'm going to do something a little different with a pump to mix salt but I am interested in those pvc holders. I don't see your email but wiill you give out the fusion360 file so I can alter it a bit without having to do a complete design from scratch? I can print myself.
Awesome 👍👍
Do you find once the salt has mixed with the RO water enough that it’s ok to let the salt water just sit with no flow?
I would use the grey brute cans. Those black ones probably aren’t food grade and will most likely leach phosphates into your water
All plastic trash cans tend to have the same plastic rating ( I checked when I was there). The grey brute cans aren’t food grade either. You would have to go with ones that I got to be food grade for my personal mixing station
Just for your knowledge, the Brute cans are NSF certifed.
Care to share the stl for the brackets?
What was the overall height of this build? My garage is unheated and it would have to be in my utility room.
Remember to check description for products used as well as link to containers and Other stuff purchased form amazon. Keep in mind you can totally make a setup under $100 assuming you go with smaller containers.
In case you're not understanding my question it's the part of the pipe that is on the outside that 90's back up wouldn't the trash can inside stopping that level on the inside of the trash can so if that was a 20 gallon of can you would probably only get to do a 15 gallon water change you for take
@@BALD8BIL when I checked it left almost 2g in it. Again my $1500 setup always leaves 5-6g inside just bc where the factory places the bulkheads. You can change the design if you wish. This video was made to get people thinking and not intended to do exactly as I did. Think of it as a way to expand the mind 😊
This is awesome! Thanks. What miter saw and clamps are you using?
How do you put the lid on the bottom can if the pipe from above extends down into it? and then, how do you get the lid off to put salt mix in there?
still. this.
eh, i figured it out. you just have to leave it detachable without gluing it in.
@@marcjoseph1124 Right, I'd agree a lid on a saltwater mixing station would be ideal to prevent the splashing. A quick and dirty option is to drill a hole in the lid and then cut a slit from the middle hole to the outside edge so it can be split and twisted just enough to wrap around a pipe. A better solution would be to use a union fitting to allow two sections of pipe to screw together or apart as needed to separate cemented pipe sections. A slip fitting with piece of pipe works but will come loose eventually spilling water everywhere unfortunately.
@@philsowers Hey thanks I actually ended up building a near replica of this system with aluminum and temco containers.
@@marcjoseph1124 Any details or pics posted anywhere?
How would you do this with a larger bin such as a 32, 44, or a 55? My wife and I are looking into getting a large waterbox (220+).
That for sure would need a platform out of plywood for the container. Aside from that just scape it up.
Scale it up? Would the dimensions be that much different?
Also, I was wondering if you had any suggestions about what kind of return pump for the WB. Or other things that I will need.
Any issues with anything freezing in the winter time being in the garage?
Still making the brackets for the pvc piping?
Are your buckets PBCs free
While I greatly appreciate the tutorial, I built this unit and all went well EXCEPT that fusion glue. That stuff is horrible. Mine has never fully dried as I can still smell significant fumes a week later. I actually Plummer it all, waited 24 hours, then started filling the ro and saltwater bins. Nothing leaked, and I thought all was well. Tried the bucket spicket and immediately smelled very strong glue fumes. Dumped all the water, pulled everything apart and dried it for 2 more days. Still fumes. Waited 4 more days and had it outside in the sun and wind. Still fumes. The glue is to be avoided. Going back to two part.
can you link to the .stl files for those clamps?
Sweet video really like the how to do you have a question for you on the bottom container where the pipe comes out of the bottom of the trash can and the 90s back up would that only allow you to get what's in the upper part of the trash can until it levels out or will it allow you to get all of it or would you recommend having a pump
Can you elaborate a little more
@@eatsleepreef9565 i think he means that at the bottom bend of pvc, it has to go down and then up to go out. In order to do so, the water in the bin will have to be higher than the pvc. Which means when you run out, that water won't exit until you make a new batch. It has to even out.
(Difficult to explain but i had the same thought)
I think I get it. And yes since it’s going up it will only drain to that line. So yet it will leave some water but honestly not a lot. My big bins always leave 5g inside. If it really bugs you the best bet is make the bottom feet higher. But then again your limited to the height of the uniseal and Pvc thAt slips into it.
how come no lid on the containers?
Recap this video under 7 minutes, and you'll get tons of views
I love the detail, but I know the quick clips are in high demand
What Kreg Jig are you using?
Shouldnt the uniseal have the lip on the inside of the container?
No because then when you push it in it has the potential of going all the ya through
The kreg system is awesome, but not nessary. 30+ years of woodworking without one.
What size screws did you use?
Why are you building this when you have a master station already?
seems like you didnt watch the entire thing
First
my ph monitors cost more than his actual mixing station.
Great video. Thank you so much.