Everyone’s been waiting on these, but for the price, Favero seems to be the best bang for your buck. I have used both Speedplay and SPD-SL pedals, and not sure I am totally on board with Speedplay. Thanks for the video, can’t wait to see the comparison video you mentioned was coming soon. Cheers!
Nice review as usual. I had gone ahead and pulled the trigger on the Assiomas over the holidays because they were $550 for dual sided and I’m glad I didn’t wait any longer. Those zeros are very impressive! Still, I’m happy with the Assiomas. Great work.
I used Speedplay for years and moved to Assioma about a year ago - very happy. The problem with Speedplay for me became the cost of the cleat unit replacement and no power option at the time. It would seem from the review that these pedals take a slightly different cleat from the other zero pedals which again sets you up for a high priced replacement in time. My Look cleats are $20 to replace. I use the 9 degree float cleat and have had no issues with comfort etc. Great review - thank you
I had no issue with the cleats, but the pedals would quite quickly wear to develop "speedplay rock" which basically necessitated new pedal bodies that weren't any cheaper than a new set of pedals...
Thanks Ray! I've been waiting for the Speedplay-based PM to be released for quite some time and happy that it is finally out. So happy in fact, that I just went and bought one!
I went from Speedplays to Assiomas in order to have a power meter pedal, back in 2019, and absolutely loved the Assiomas but after a year gave up and sold them to go back to Speedplays because I CANNOT deal with single-sided entry pedals. The SL-style is just abysmal. Of course they're bottom-weighted but the second the crank starts moving the pedals start swinging, and trying to clip in is like chasing an (American) football down a field. You think you have your toe in on the correct side, until you try to clip in 3 or 4 times, fail, and let it 'flip over', only to find out after more trial-and-error that you were on the correct side in the first place. It was the first time I understood why you see so many cyclists fumbling with their pedals as they leave the lights. Unfortunately, the new thin Speedplay cleats are not nearly as good as the old hunk-of-metal ones with the round bars. Those things were such a dream to clip in and unclip. The new style are a bit more fiddly.
Hi Ray, great video! But I was wondering what are your thoughts on the one sided versus the dual sided ? What would be the user lacking if the user only had the one sided versus the 2 sided ? Hope to hear from you on that one.
Cool post, thank you for this! I keep trying SO hard to break from Garmin (it's a personal thing) just so hard for me to do...bought an Element BOLT a while back to replace my old Edge 305...i still feel the Garmin product a tad-bit better..hoping Wahoo ups the game big time.
Thanks for the review! Debating . . . I've been using Speedplays since about 2002 and like them. I just got a new road bike and am debating on the power meter. I could put a Quarq power meter in my new (Quarq-ready) road bike for a lot less cost. With the Quarq, it would be one-sided data. Not sure it matters much. I have a huge leg length discrepancy (1.25") with some extra spacing of the cleat on my short leg. (I don't correct all the way as the pedaling dynamics get weird; it fixes things just enough to help me not shift around as much on the seat and irritate my bad shoulder through movement.) The leg data might be interesting, but I am not sure it would be all that actionable as I cannot grow my short leg. So, the only real benefit might be that I could switch these pedals between my road bike and my tri bike, which currently doesn't have a power meter. Then again, not sure I want to see my power output on my tri bike. Ignorance is bliss. Decisions, decisions . . .
I do use the cycling dynamics information from my faveros and find them useful. My use case is I have considerably different L/R balance on the trainer and on the road. I found with the info that the quadrant of the peak torque is quite different for both cases. Also, cadence/power affects it too, and position on the bike, especially on the road, where I change position more. A direct implication was some adjustments on the pedaling technique in aero and climb positions, on and off the trainer. Helped a lot Also showed me that the balance estimated from the Quarq I had before was totally wrong.
It's funny because it's clearly a personal preference about which pedal system is most comfortable. I was fitted with Speedplay's and once past the initial learning curve I've loved them. I've often found that from a traffic light I am in and moving while others are still fumbling with their "standard" cleat-based pedals. I've never encountered the "perpendicular" problem with the pedal off alignment. I mean, if you clip out with your foot flat then the pedal is there ready and waiting. I did laugh at the "mashing a bug" comment because that does happen occasionally and can be maddening, but it is so random. For those who are not familiar with Speedplay, Ray's experience with the cleat is an extreme one as he said. if you keep the cleat out of the mud and lube them as is recommended they last a very long time. I've not found any need to replace mine and I've got probably 5k on mine and still going. I'd probably never use Speedplay's for gravel as they just weren't made for it (unless you are a racing pro who isn't going to need to put a foot down on course). For that, I reach for my Time ATACs which are bulletproof. All of this is outside the power meter considerations. Thanks for the great review, Ray, as always, and cheers from the DMV.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but pretty sure you can't lube the new Wahoo version of speedplay pedals. There is no grease injection port. So, if they stop spinning or the bearings wear out, I'm not sure what you do. Perhaps Wahoo can service them (for a price) ?
@@tmunk123 When I say "lubricate" I mean the cleat itself. You use a PTFE-based lube. The Speedplay-specific version suspends the PTFE in a light liquid wax that disappears when dry. You put it on the mechanism of the cleat every few rides. Easy. But I think you are right about the grease port missing form the Wahoo versions.
Interesting review, I was thinking about using the Powrlink Zero for my mountain bike. I wish Favero would offer a solution for mountainbikes too. I am very happy with my Faveros on my road bike. P.S.: 9:40 Honestly, what is the point of bringing a gravel bike to a place like this? If it gets ridiculous, you can be sure it is marketing hype 🙄
Great review Ray! Those cleats have seen some things! 😂 Glad you're getting really good data here. I am always just a bit nervous to confirm if what I'm seeing on the few power meters I've got is similar to what others are seeing.
Is the body of the pedal the same size as the previous speedplay zero? I use speedplay pedals in my stages bike trainer and also in my road and tri bikes; so I want to know if I can use the same pair of shoes with the new powerlink pedals or if I have to change my current cleat? (or buy new shoes).
@@Dcrainmaker I did wonder. Not least because finding bikes available for sale with these powermeters seems.. well, based on modest research, tricky. So I was wondering how real they actually are right now.
Hei man, thank you for all your great work. One question, can one pair the powerlink zero directly to a garmin forerunner 945? I simply would like to have all my data on one device during triathlons...I am a beginner, so just trying to figure out easy solutions :)
I got the single side wahoo pedals but I don't get them to work good. I pair it with a Garmin forerunner. The numbers are going Al the time up and down from zero to 200 or more and back to 80 or less... I calibrate manny times...
Now that there's a nice power meter speedplay option, hopefully shoe manufacturers will get on board as well. (And not with just obscenely expensive speedplay shoes)
I have the original Speedplay zero ( pre wahoo) so you have to conduct maintenance . I am still on my original set of cleats, I have probably 10 + thousand kilometres on them, over many years ( I only do may 1000 to 2000 km per year). So the cleats do last a long time.
@@Dcrainmaker you do have your hands full this month. Thank you for all this amazing work you publish for our enjoyment. You’re literally building up a massive library of consumer sports tech for future reference.
Now that we have all that choice, what power meter pedals would you recommend for a do it all gravel bike with two wheel sets (wide chunky mtb wheels and deep section aero carbon wheels)?? What would be the most versatile now that many of us are taking a one bike to do it all??
Don't think the speedplay cleats are good with muck in them as any dirt is forced up into the cleat mechanism which could then stop the engagement with the pedals.
@@vwnutter you can get cleat plugs to fit into the cleats if you have to get your feet dirty off the bike. I take a pair in my jersey pocket on every ride.
I'm experiencing rapid wear on the left-side pedal. I have adjusted the disengagement point multiple times to compensate, to the point where the cleat now releases much too early on my other (non metered) Zero pedals. It steadily deteriorated during the course of yesterday's commute to the point where it would no longer release, which led to a near miss with a dangerous incident in traffic. Has anyone else experienced this?
I confirmed with them, that they say they do properly support oval chainrings. I haven't tested that myself however (I don't have any on-hand at the moment).
Can I take the dual unit and split it and use one pedal on each bike. Left on one bike. Right on a different bike and treat them independently like buying two single power units?
Put a pedal on a tt bike and the other on my road bike is the question. That way it would be worth it to be able to have the use of 2 bikes having power meters
DC, have you observed any "rubbing" of your shoe or cleat on the pod or black ring next to it on the spindle? I 've been using Speedplays for about 10 years and all 3 sets of my pedals have this 'rub ring' around the spindles where the cleat has made contact. I have the stock spindle length on all 3 pedal sets and wear the normal cleat covers on my size 46 Sidis with about 10% float. My concern is that chance that the cleat covers will rub on the pod will increase significantly and may damage the pods during use. Any insight you can provide would be great as I am seriously considering this purchase :) Thanks!
Good video, question and comment 1) What was the torque recorded by the G3 Powertap...it is insane that bicycle dynamometer manufacture's do not display torque and load data as the PowerTap does. For whomever to say Torque does not matter is very false. Observing torque and load data is far more important the power produced. Tracking torque and load indicates if you are at your max, improving or decreasing in pedaling abilities. Your MUSCLES do not care about power, they care about the load you are subjecting them to. Power (rotational power in Watts, HP or PS) is not a true indication of load and abilities!!! Did you ride at 28 mph for 30 min into 20 MPH head wind or 20 MPH tailwind? Did you spin a 50 Nm or 90 Nm load at the pedal axle, rear wheel axle or rear tire contact point to produce 350 watts over 30 mins??? Power and Speed are meaningless unless you know the conditions in which the power or speed were generated (track & field factor in wind speed (load/force) to when considering world records...bicycle riding ignores the wind load/force). It is very suspicious that dynamometer pedals, cranks and rear wheel (indoor) dynamometers, often display identical numbers when used together. This deifies logic as those number should never be the same. It is physically impossible due to change in torque and load at each pivot point. You would never see engine crank shaft dynamometer recordings the same produced at the rear wheel for the same vehicle. I wonder if the bicycle industry is using the same algorithm to calculate the power that requires fudging the load and torque data. IMPORTANT SUGGESTION/REQUEST (capped just making sure you see this): If not already, will you please interview a 'credible' professional automotive, motorcycle or Jet Ski dynamometer testing facility (not a trendy center that caters to those just wanting to show off rear wheel power), to talk about how a dynamometer does work, what key data points are collected and why, and then compare that to how the bicycle industry records and collects data or more like lack of collecting data (Torque and Load)? I miss my PowerTap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The torque is transmitted by these devices, and recorded to the head units (in fact, I even showed it in the video coming from the pedals below the balance/power/cadence data pages). As for torque vs power, I haven't seen any coaching or training philosophies that focus on torque vs power. So, in terms of training or racing, that'd be exceptionally rare to utilize. As for different levels between different measuring locations, I also talked about that too in both the video and written review, and the correct ordering (with G3, in theory, being the lowest, and pedals in theory the highest). In reality, you get between accuracy ranges really quickly though with typical drivetrain losses and accuracy claims. When I talk with 'credible' people in the strain gauge and dyno industry, they all basically say the same thing: Producing a correct bike power meter that can handle all conditions and different human pedaling styles is far more difficult than automotive use cases, but that ultimately, automotive use cases is where the money is.
I've been a speedplay user for 10 years now. Do you know whether the dual can be split? i.e. can you mount one side of the dual power pedal on one bike (with a dummy) and then the other side dual power pedal on another bike (with another dummy)?
Thank you for the review. Been waiting for this 👍🏼. Speedplay are great for anyone that doesn't want their feet forced into one position. Imo, anyone with biomechanical imperfections in hips, knees, ankles would benefit from the forgiveness of these pedals.
Hi Adam, Used Speedplay for years, great pedals but the price of buying the replacement cleat unit became ridiculous as they wore out on the shoes. I moved to Assioma power pedals which use a Look style cleat which is $20 bucks to replace. Coming from Speedplay, I got the 9 degree float Look cleat and have had no issues with my knees etc - excellent feel
I also got the Speedplay Zero for the freedom of movement, and on that front they're great. My main gripe is the plastic cleat cover they call "walkable" - it doesn't last very long and they have the nerve to charge over $20 just for the plastic.
So what is the maximum rider weight? I'm a big guy and went with the PowerTap pedals because they have a ~300lb rider limit while the Garmin units have a 231lb limit.
@@TrickyTree84 I would recommend getting off the speed play hype train unless you really don’t like Look or Shimano cleats. I have a pair of the Duos and they’re excellent
@@quarkonium3795 Yeah, I was worried because I just bought the Assioma Duos and thought I might regret not waiting for the Speedplay Powerlink pedals. But I'll be fine. As you said, I think these Powerlink pedals are going to be great for people who already love Speedplay.
Are they still holding up? After a couple months mine stopped holding a charge. Wahoo support has been excellent. But, I'm on my 3rd set and this is a flawed product.
Thanks for the review. We've been waiting for these to be released. My partner uses speedplay on bikefitter's advice. But speedplays with an extra long spindle to cater for a weird stance (or on a second bike standard spindles with extenders). Are you aware of any plans to release a long spindle version? I assume that using spindle extenders would interfere with accuracy to an unacceptable extent. Any info much appreciated
Dark Cycle Clothing made them, but they don't seem to carry this exact one (this shirt is 10-12 years old now - and it's starting to show). However, they do have some semi-similiar designs now: darkcycleclothing.com/collections/great-white-shark/products/great-white-shark-on-a-bicycle-unisex-mens-tshirt-triblack?variant=12570693304381
Speedplay are so easy to get into quickly every single time if your having trouble then your doing it wrong……just smash your foot down…don’t over think it
Hey man, can I give you a tip? I like your channel and its really helped me make more informed decisions when buying cycling gear. But I think you could get more viewers (especially from cyclists in Europe and elsewhere) if you did two small things differently. First, it would be really nice if you could enunciate better. Second, if you added subtitles it would be really helpful. Thanks!
Everyone’s been waiting on these, but for the price, Favero seems to be the best bang for your buck. I have used both Speedplay and SPD-SL pedals, and not sure I am totally on board with Speedplay. Thanks for the video, can’t wait to see the comparison video you mentioned was coming soon. Cheers!
Nice review as usual. I had gone ahead and pulled the trigger on the Assiomas over the holidays because they were $550 for dual sided and I’m glad I didn’t wait any longer. Those zeros are very impressive! Still, I’m happy with the Assiomas. Great work.
I used Speedplay for years and moved to Assioma about a year ago - very happy. The problem with Speedplay for me became the cost of the cleat unit replacement and no power option at the time. It would seem from the review that these pedals take a slightly different cleat from the other zero pedals which again sets you up for a high priced replacement in time. My Look cleats are $20 to replace. I use the 9 degree float cleat and have had no issues with comfort etc. Great review - thank you
I had no issue with the cleats, but the pedals would quite quickly wear to develop "speedplay rock" which basically necessitated new pedal bodies that weren't any cheaper than a new set of pedals...
Nice one Ray. As a 10+ year Speedplay user, these are perfect for me.
I love it when you said it isn’t my cup of tea!
I just call it like it is. But, it's other peoples. My Dad uses Speedplay happily.
Thanks Ray! I've been waiting for the Speedplay-based PM to be released for quite some time and happy that it is finally out.
So happy in fact, that I just went and bought one!
Looks like Wahoo have hit a home run with these Speedplay Power Meter Pedals!
I went from Speedplays to Assiomas in order to have a power meter pedal, back in 2019, and absolutely loved the Assiomas but after a year gave up and sold them to go back to Speedplays because I CANNOT deal with single-sided entry pedals. The SL-style is just abysmal. Of course they're bottom-weighted but the second the crank starts moving the pedals start swinging, and trying to clip in is like chasing an (American) football down a field. You think you have your toe in on the correct side, until you try to clip in 3 or 4 times, fail, and let it 'flip over', only to find out after more trial-and-error that you were on the correct side in the first place. It was the first time I understood why you see so many cyclists fumbling with their pedals as they leave the lights.
Unfortunately, the new thin Speedplay cleats are not nearly as good as the old hunk-of-metal ones with the round bars. Those things were such a dream to clip in and unclip. The new style are a bit more fiddly.
Hi Ray, great video! But I was wondering what are your thoughts on the one sided versus the dual sided ? What would be the user lacking if the user only had the one sided versus the 2 sided ? Hope to hear from you on that one.
Cool post, thank you for this! I keep trying SO hard to break from Garmin (it's a personal thing) just so hard for me to do...bought an Element BOLT a while back to replace my old Edge 305...i still feel the Garmin product a tad-bit better..hoping Wahoo ups the game big time.
The Wahoo app update had them listed yesterday and. Had to jump on here to checkout the real deal!
Thanks for the review! Debating . . . I've been using Speedplays since about 2002 and like them. I just got a new road bike and am debating on the power meter. I could put a Quarq power meter in my new (Quarq-ready) road bike for a lot less cost. With the Quarq, it would be one-sided data. Not sure it matters much. I have a huge leg length discrepancy (1.25") with some extra spacing of the cleat on my short leg. (I don't correct all the way as the pedaling dynamics get weird; it fixes things just enough to help me not shift around as much on the seat and irritate my bad shoulder through movement.) The leg data might be interesting, but I am not sure it would be all that actionable as I cannot grow my short leg. So, the only real benefit might be that I could switch these pedals between my road bike and my tri bike, which currently doesn't have a power meter. Then again, not sure I want to see my power output on my tri bike. Ignorance is bliss. Decisions, decisions . . .
Thanks for the review! I'm now happier with my Assioma Shi purchase on a discount for 477 euros. Its extra Q-factor also suits me greatly!
Great review, thanks Ray. Best regards Martin
I do use the cycling dynamics information from my faveros and find them useful. My use case is I have considerably different L/R balance on the trainer and on the road. I found with the info that the quadrant of the peak torque is quite different for both cases. Also, cadence/power affects it too, and position on the bike, especially on the road, where I change position more. A direct implication was some adjustments on the pedaling technique in aero and climb positions, on and off the trainer. Helped a lot
Also showed me that the balance estimated from the Quarq I had before was totally wrong.
It's funny because it's clearly a personal preference about which pedal system is most comfortable. I was fitted with Speedplay's and once past the initial learning curve I've loved them. I've often found that from a traffic light I am in and moving while others are still fumbling with their "standard" cleat-based pedals. I've never encountered the "perpendicular" problem with the pedal off alignment. I mean, if you clip out with your foot flat then the pedal is there ready and waiting. I did laugh at the "mashing a bug" comment because that does happen occasionally and can be maddening, but it is so random. For those who are not familiar with Speedplay, Ray's experience with the cleat is an extreme one as he said. if you keep the cleat out of the mud and lube them as is recommended they last a very long time. I've not found any need to replace mine and I've got probably 5k on mine and still going. I'd probably never use Speedplay's for gravel as they just weren't made for it (unless you are a racing pro who isn't going to need to put a foot down on course). For that, I reach for my Time ATACs which are bulletproof. All of this is outside the power meter considerations. Thanks for the great review, Ray, as always, and cheers from the DMV.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but pretty sure you can't lube the new Wahoo version of speedplay pedals. There is no grease injection port. So, if they stop spinning or the bearings wear out, I'm not sure what you do. Perhaps Wahoo can service them (for a price) ?
@@tmunk123 When I say "lubricate" I mean the cleat itself. You use a PTFE-based lube. The Speedplay-specific version suspends the PTFE in a light liquid wax that disappears when dry. You put it on the mechanism of the cleat every few rides. Easy. But I think you are right about the grease port missing form the Wahoo versions.
Interesting review, I was thinking about using the Powrlink Zero for my mountain bike. I wish Favero would offer a solution for mountainbikes too. I am very happy with my Faveros on my road bike. P.S.: 9:40 Honestly, what is the point of bringing a gravel bike to a place like this? If it gets ridiculous, you can be sure it is marketing hype 🙄
Great review Ray! Those cleats have seen some things! 😂 Glad you're getting really good data here. I am always just a bit nervous to confirm if what I'm seeing on the few power meters I've got is similar to what others are seeing.
Is the body of the pedal the same size as the previous speedplay zero? I use speedplay pedals in my stages bike trainer and also in my road and tri bikes; so I want to know if I can use the same pair of shoes with the new powerlink pedals or if I have to change my current cleat? (or buy new shoes).
Another great video - thanks! Any news of a review of the power meter in the latest DuraAce/Ultegra groupsets?
No, they keep kicking the can down the road on getting me a set to test unfortunately. I'll poke again today.
@@Dcrainmaker I did wonder. Not least because finding bikes available for sale with these powermeters seems.. well, based on modest research, tricky. So I was wondering how real they actually are right now.
awesome padels!
Hei man, thank you for all your great work. One question, can one pair the powerlink zero directly to a garmin forerunner 945? I simply would like to have all my data on one device during triathlons...I am a beginner, so just trying to figure out easy solutions :)
Are the new pedals compatible with all newer Speedplay cleats?
Are the cleats compatible with existing speedplay cleats?
I got the single side wahoo pedals but I don't get them to work good. I pair it with a Garmin forerunner. The numbers are going Al the time up and down from zero to 200 or more and back to 80 or less... I calibrate manny times...
Now that there's a nice power meter speedplay option, hopefully shoe manufacturers will get on board as well. (And not with just obscenely expensive speedplay shoes)
I have the original Speedplay zero ( pre wahoo) so you have to conduct maintenance . I am still on my original set of cleats, I have probably 10 + thousand kilometres on them, over many years ( I only do may 1000 to 2000 km per year). So the cleats do last a long time.
Hows your "speedplay rock"? e.g. wear on the pedal body causing side to side movement of the cleat?
@@rkan2 actually pretty solid, no undue wear, I do have to hit the cleats with some dry lube again, starting to get a little difficult to clip in….
Awesome video! No written review link in the description this time?
Doh, thanks! Just adding in all that stuff now!
@@Dcrainmaker you do have your hands full this month. Thank you for all this amazing work you publish for our enjoyment. You’re literally building up a massive library of consumer sports tech for future reference.
Are you planning on doing a long term update on the Garmin xc200 pedals?
Yup, I'm going to cover it in my full pedal round-up video (in short, they're solid).
Now that we have all that choice, what power meter pedals would you recommend for a do it all gravel bike with two wheel sets (wide chunky mtb wheels and deep section aero carbon wheels)?? What would be the most versatile now that many of us are taking a one bike to do it all??
Probably SPD variants would be my preference. I used both the Garmin & SRM SPD units on both road and MTB.
@@Dcrainmaker thanks!!
Don't think the speedplay cleats are good with muck in them as any dirt is forced up into the cleat mechanism which could then stop the engagement with the pedals.
@@vwnutter you can get cleat plugs to fit into the cleats if you have to get your feet dirty off the bike. I take a pair in my jersey pocket on every ride.
I'm experiencing rapid wear on the left-side pedal. I have adjusted the disengagement point multiple times to compensate, to the point where the cleat now releases much too early on my other (non metered) Zero pedals. It steadily deteriorated during the course of yesterday's commute to the point where it would no longer release, which led to a near miss with a dangerous incident in traffic.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Hi, its possible to know level battery in Garmin computer ? thanks
Just a heads up. REI in the states has the price at $900 right now. A nice deal for launch day.
Do you know if there is any word as to whether or not power accuracy will remain consistent if using oval chainrings with these?
I confirmed with them, that they say they do properly support oval chainrings. I haven't tested that myself however (I don't have any on-hand at the moment).
Hi, i’m not sure if someone has asked this question. How does it work (information) with Garmin head Units (1030)
Can it be calibrated with the Fenix 5+ watch?
Great review! Do you get 2 charging clamps? Or have to charge each side individually using 1 clamp?
From looking at Ray’s written review, you get two clips and a USB-C cable with a Y, giving you one cable end for each clip and simultaneous charging.
Yup, correct!
Can I take the dual unit and split it and use one pedal on each bike. Left on one bike. Right on a different bike and treat them independently like buying two single power units?
Put a pedal on a tt bike and the other on my road bike is the question. That way it would be worth it to be able to have the use of 2 bikes having power meters
DC, have you observed any "rubbing" of your shoe or cleat on the pod or black ring next to it on the spindle? I 've been using Speedplays for about 10 years and all 3 sets of my pedals have this 'rub ring' around the spindles where the cleat has made contact. I have the stock spindle length on all 3 pedal sets and wear the normal cleat covers on my size 46 Sidis with about 10% float. My concern is that chance that the cleat covers will rub on the pod will increase significantly and may damage the pods during use. Any insight you can provide would be great as I am seriously considering this purchase :) Thanks!
None that I’ve noticed. But keep in mind Wahoo extended out the spindle 2mm from 53mm to 55mm to accommodate just this.
@@Dcrainmaker Good to know. Thanks and keep up the awesome work!
Good video, question and comment 1) What was the torque recorded by the G3 Powertap...it is insane that bicycle dynamometer manufacture's do not display torque and load data as the PowerTap does. For whomever to say Torque does not matter is very false. Observing torque and load data is far more important the power produced. Tracking torque and load indicates if you are at your max, improving or decreasing in pedaling abilities. Your MUSCLES do not care about power, they care about the load you are subjecting them to. Power (rotational power in Watts, HP or PS) is not a true indication of load and abilities!!! Did you ride at 28 mph for 30 min into 20 MPH head wind or 20 MPH tailwind? Did you spin a 50 Nm or 90 Nm load at the pedal axle, rear wheel axle or rear tire contact point to produce 350 watts over 30 mins??? Power and Speed are meaningless unless you know the conditions in which the power or speed were generated (track & field factor in wind speed (load/force) to when considering world records...bicycle riding ignores the wind load/force). It is very suspicious that dynamometer pedals, cranks and rear wheel (indoor) dynamometers, often display identical numbers when used together. This deifies logic as those number should never be the same. It is physically impossible due to change in torque and load at each pivot point. You would never see engine crank shaft dynamometer recordings the same produced at the rear wheel for the same vehicle. I wonder if the bicycle industry is using the same algorithm to calculate the power that requires fudging the load and torque data. IMPORTANT SUGGESTION/REQUEST (capped just making sure you see this): If not already, will you please interview a 'credible' professional automotive, motorcycle or Jet Ski dynamometer testing facility (not a trendy center that caters to those just wanting to show off rear wheel power), to talk about how a dynamometer does work, what key data points are collected and why, and then compare that to how the bicycle industry records and collects data or more like lack of collecting data (Torque and Load)? I miss my PowerTap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The torque is transmitted by these devices, and recorded to the head units (in fact, I even showed it in the video coming from the pedals below the balance/power/cadence data pages). As for torque vs power, I haven't seen any coaching or training philosophies that focus on torque vs power. So, in terms of training or racing, that'd be exceptionally rare to utilize. As for different levels between different measuring locations, I also talked about that too in both the video and written review, and the correct ordering (with G3, in theory, being the lowest, and pedals in theory the highest). In reality, you get between accuracy ranges really quickly though with typical drivetrain losses and accuracy claims.
When I talk with 'credible' people in the strain gauge and dyno industry, they all basically say the same thing: Producing a correct bike power meter that can handle all conditions and different human pedaling styles is far more difficult than automotive use cases, but that ultimately, automotive use cases is where the money is.
I've been a speedplay user for 10 years now. Do you know whether the dual can be split? i.e. can you mount one side of the dual power pedal on one bike (with a dummy) and then the other side dual power pedal on another bike (with another dummy)?
No, unfortunately not. All data flows through the left pedal. So a left pedal is required.
can you use pedal extensions to increase q-factor or will this effect the measurement?
Generally speaking that'll impact measurement.
Thank you for the review. Been waiting for this 👍🏼. Speedplay are great for anyone that doesn't want their feet forced into one position. Imo, anyone with biomechanical imperfections in hips, knees, ankles would benefit from the forgiveness of these pedals.
Hi Adam,
Used Speedplay for years, great pedals but the price of buying the replacement cleat unit became ridiculous as they wore out on the shoes. I moved to Assioma power pedals which use a Look style cleat which is $20 bucks to replace. Coming from Speedplay, I got the 9 degree float Look cleat and have had no issues with my knees etc - excellent feel
I also got the Speedplay Zero for the freedom of movement, and on that front they're great. My main gripe is the plastic cleat cover they call "walkable" - it doesn't last very long and they have the nerve to charge over $20 just for the plastic.
So what is the maximum rider weight? I'm a big guy and went with the PowerTap pedals because they have a ~300lb rider limit while the Garmin units have a 231lb limit.
Wahoo POWRLINK Zero is 113kg (250lbs). Hope that helps!
@@Dcrainmaker Thanks Ray. Unfortunately, it has been quite a few years since I was below 250.
Excited speedplay user here...until I saw $999. Any word on oval chain ring support?
Good question - totally forgot to ask on that. I'll check now and circle back!
Thank you. The Assiomas are getting on for half the price and do support oval. Just wish I didn't like speedplay so much 😁
@@TrickyTree84 I would recommend getting off the speed play hype train unless you really don’t like Look or Shimano cleats. I have a pair of the Duos and they’re excellent
@@TrickyTree84 "Compatible with both standard and oval chainrings, POWRLINK ZERO will provide reliable power data no matter your component set-up."
@@quarkonium3795 Yeah, I was worried because I just bought the Assioma Duos and thought I might regret not waiting for the Speedplay Powerlink pedals. But I'll be fine. As you said, I think these Powerlink pedals are going to be great for people who already love Speedplay.
Why would you mount power link pedals on a quarq crank set?
So I can test accuracy.
Are they still holding up? After a couple months mine stopped holding a charge. Wahoo support has been excellent. But, I'm on my 3rd set and this is a flawed product.
Thanks for the review. We've been waiting for these to be released. My partner uses speedplay on bikefitter's advice. But speedplays with an extra long spindle to cater for a weird stance (or on a second bike standard spindles with extenders). Are you aware of any plans to release a long spindle version? I assume that using spindle extenders would interfere with accuracy to an unacceptable extent. Any info much appreciated
Waiting for the sale lol.
I would say that my main concern is pairing. I am afraid that a pedal manufacturer would show favoritism to their computer, or trainer.
DCR Where can I get the shark riding a bike t shirt!
Dark Cycle Clothing made them, but they don't seem to carry this exact one (this shirt is 10-12 years old now - and it's starting to show). However, they do have some semi-similiar designs now: darkcycleclothing.com/collections/great-white-shark/products/great-white-shark-on-a-bicycle-unisex-mens-tshirt-triblack?variant=12570693304381
@@Dcrainmaker thanks DC
I don't think they're the first Speedplay power pedals. I think the, admittedly failed, Brim Brothers pedals may have been. I still have mine.
Brim Brothers never shipped a product though. They had some solid prototypes I tried, but never got to shipping.
Golly, I already forgot about those!
Screw Wahoo for discontinuing my favorite Frog pedals..
Speedplay are so easy to get into quickly every single time if your having trouble then your doing it wrong……just smash your foot down…don’t over think it
Hey man, can I give you a tip? I like your channel and its really helped me make more informed decisions when buying cycling gear.
But I think you could get more viewers (especially from cyclists in Europe and elsewhere) if you did two small things differently. First, it would be really nice if you could enunciate better. Second, if you added subtitles it would be really helpful. Thanks!
In regards to the single sided thing, how about you try clipping in on a big hill. In a hilly city like I live in .. it’s a big problem
I’ve.never had an issue with that over the years.
Far too expensive for me.
Good but too expensive.
no cycling dynamics :/
You bore me.
Great! Appreciate the comment and views!