CNC Router Improvements & Spindle Conversion
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- See www.brainright.... for more info and a printable 3D model of my dust hood.
This video shows some improvements I've made to my CNC router, including the base and enclosure, an inexpensive micro-adjustable leveling system, beefing up the structure of the bed and gantry, improved dust collection, and conversion from the original router motor to a water-cooled spindle with a VFD controlled by the CNC controller I built.
I had the same problem of deflecting while machining metals using the same spindle, I upgraded the spindle drive with one with Vector Control to maintain constant rpm under different loads, also I used steel rails to increase rigidity. Look forward to your next videos.
Yes I think stiffer rails would help considerably, although at some point it just won't get much better until more of the plastic structure is replaced by metal. I probably won't do much more to this machine though, as I expect to get much better results when machining metal by CNCing my milling machine.
Nice video, I like the way you enclosed your cnc router.
Very Informative, I do really appreciate your work especially when you talk about pros and cons of your machine so we can get over flaws in next designs. Thanks a lot
Your channel is amazing. It's going places.
It's like watching This New CNC
Your channel is great and I really like your thoughtful approach to improving this machine. On that note, the CNC shark is extremely expensive for how badly it is engineered. The unsupported rails are my main criticism.
Thanks, glad you found it useful. The rails look unsupported because the supports are black and hard to see, but actually the X and Y axis rails are fully supported. The Z rails are not however, and most of the flex seems to be in the Z axis. I understand that the latest ones have a beefier Z axis assembly. I think it is entirely adequate for most woodworking applications, which is what it's primarily sold for. But if I were to buy another CNC router, I would spend the money to get an all-metal frame with more rigidity for cutting materials such as aluminum.
This is a great video with a lot of helpful info, thanks for posting it. Can you tell me where you purchased your water-cooled spindle?
Jay that's REALLY impressive. Damn you.... Now I have to do this to mine. ;-)
I really like the great ideas for the router. Thank you for the video!
Your channel is awesome!
Did you have any opinion on the ER20 collet set for trueness. There must be many disgruntled collet buyers/owners according to YT reviews.
your a smart man. well done
Nice Job. Thanks for sharing your ideas!
I plan on remaking my CNC box. Any reason why I would not want to mount the VFD inside the CNC box? The reason I ask is I have an XXL and I will be making the box a bit larger so I can accommodate for the Dust boot in the front and enough wiggle room on the sides to allow screwdriver access if I need to adjust/replace the belts at any point. I figured if I have extra space I might as well mount the VFD in the top left corner of the box to be closer to the SO3 Control Board. Thoughts?
Savant PCs Definitely don’t install the vfd in the box. Dust and chips will get inside the housing on the PCB and ruin it as well any moisture if you use oil mist or a flood coolant. You can make your own charcoal filter system for the VFD vents but I would still keep it out of the box and do so to keep the internal board free from contamination.
Did you have to modify anything to add the spindle? I have a Piranha, made by the same company. It currently has a Bosch laminate router, but I want to put a spindle on it to make it quieter.
Very, very nice! A friend sent me your link because we are collaborating on building an enclosure for the Shark HD4. I'm wondering what thickness of acrylic you used for the windows. It looks pretty rigid, but for cost purposes, i'd like to use 1/8" thick panels, but don't know if they would flex too much. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
Estimado Amigo, fiquei muito animado com o seu projeto, tanto que estou comprando os materiais para seguir seu modelo. Neste mês recebi o controlador DDCSV2.1, uma evolução da versão 1.1. Tenho estudado bastante o manual deste e não consigo encontrar com faço para configurar o segundo eixo Y, minha maquina tem dois motores de passo. Por esse motivo peço sua ajuda, ficarei muito feliz. Moro no Brasil onde informações sobre este assunto é muito difícil, alem da diferença do idioma. Um abraço, Edson Jesus.
First, thank you for your very well done video. I learned a few things from it as well as enjoyed watching it.
Jay, I have a Shark HD2 also, but mine has the control box that came from Next Wave. May I ask why you do not? Second, adding heavier aluminum components might affect the axis motors. Did it?
Hi, my name is Sandro Ferraz and your University Professor in Brazil. Congratulations on your work! I would like to ask a favor if possible. I'm building a CNC with DDCS and the inverter like the one you use, with a 2.2kW spindle. Can you help me in setting up these my systems? Could you please pass the configuration of your DDCS and your inverter, so I can configure mine? I'm having a hard time finding the right setup. There is a lot of contradictory information on the internet that doesn't help at all. Thank you in advance.
Sandro Ferraz
A criticism too late to be of any value to you: there was no point using expensive Unistrut for your leveling system because you didn't use any of the associated hardware (channel nuts and bolts). Much cheaper plain channel would have done just as well for this application. Otherwise, nice work.
What type of ball screw using? Rm1605 z axis?
fantastique mr brian
Hi the cabinets and surround look great and I would love to use your design, just one question where did you get the cabinets?
Thanks, I made the cabinets - they're just 3/4" birch plywood boxes with iron-on maple edge banding to cover the exposed edges. I assemble them with pocket-hole screws, which are quite easy and quick. The drawers are glued-together boxes made from 1/2" plywood, usually BCX grade, with maple or birch ply on the front. I've made a lot of these for the shop, and I buy the drawer slides in bulk from www.wwhardware.com/kv-tt100-economy-100-lb-full-extension-drawer-slide-kvtt100. It takes a fair amount of time to build a cabinet box and all the drawers but it's cheaper than buying them and I end up with heavy-duty drawers in exactly the sizes I want.
Thanks, very good, what diameter is the spindle? Any chance I could get a copy of the file please? Have you posted it on Thingiverse? New subscriber, going to have a look at your other videos. Cheers
The spindle diameter is 80mm, as most of them are in this size range. I just posted a page at www.brainright.com/Projects/CNCRouter/ with a link to the spindle kit that I bought, and the 3D model file for the dust hood.
BrainRight Nice one thanks. I currently have a small Chinese 3020 but when I finish my house move and have some more room to work in, I'm in the process of 3d printing my parts for a MPCNC. Cheers
I have been considering something like your dust hood but do not have a 3d printer. Any chance you might want to make them to sell? Oh, and thanks for the model file too.
i have the shark hd would like the info for hooking up my new spindle to the cnc to stop an start please. just installed it 2 days ago. was hoping to find it here on utube
The original shark controller has a relay that provides a 120V AC outlet to run a router motor. You could perhaps connect a 120V AC relay to that outlet and use it to make a low-voltage control signal to turn the spindle on/off. Or just do like I did before I hooked the spindle to my new controller - start/stop it manually with the buttons on the front of the VFD before/after running a program.
Hello Brain,
Do you know how the function “find center” in menu is working.
I set it to ex key 2 in menu, but it is not working....any idee. Greetings
Hi Marcel,
I don't yet have limit switches installed so I have not used the home functions in the controller. I've heard from others who have gotten it to work, once the switches where wired as in the manual.
Regards, Jay
nice
What about of post processor ? In Vectric Aspire for example...? Thanks in advance
I made a post processor for Fusion 360 that is available free on my website at brainright.com/cnccontroller/. But I don't have Vectric Aspire so I don't have a post processor that works with it. It's likely that one of the standard ones would work but I can't say which one.
Hello Jay, another comment from me ;-) Thanks for the updates. I actually did a similar upgrade to my cnc with the same motor, but it was not a success. I later replaced the water cooled with a air cooled version. I even shot some video of the water cooled version ruclips.net/video/MZrXRZ8-Fj0/видео.html What is not shown in that video is the complete disassembly of the motor, I do have some video on that. These motors are sold as 4 bearing, suited for axial loads... guess what I found out.
Hello Edwin, sorry to hear the water-cooled spindle didn't work out for you. Wrong VFD parameters could certainly do it, and they're easy enough to get wrong with the confusing documentation that sometimes comes with them. The one I got had a pretty good manual with it. I read that while it's possible to rebuild these spindles with new bearings, many people just treat them as a consumable given the relatively low cost of replacement.
So far my spindle has worked flawlessly but I haven't done any really heavy cutting to stress it yet. I like the water cooling, despite the inconvenience of a water pump, because it is quiet and doesn't interfere with dust collection. With the router motor I had a blast of air coming down through the motor fighting with the vacuum trying to move dust upward so a dust fitting surrounding the collet would have been futile, but it works well with this spindle.
what are some of the tolerances you can hold with this cnc?
That's a good question, and a difficult one to answer because it depends on so many different things. These machines are sold by Rockler and are intended mainly for woodworking applications, and to achieve a relatively low price they use quite a bit of HDPE (plastic) in the structure. The resulting flexibility means that the achievable tolerance depends a great deal on how much cutting force gets applied to the bit. I use very light cuts for things like guitar fretboards and inlay where I aim for a tolerance of 0.1mm or better, and I also use light cuts with materials like aluminum that tend to apply more cutting force. Conversely if I'm doing rough work like cutting shop fixtures out of MDF, I can cut pretty aggressively because I don't need very tight tolerances. I realize that doesn't exactly answer your question but it's the best I can do at this point. I plan to test some new stepper drivers in the near future, for which I'll need to make more quantitative measurements of accuracy so perhaps I can give a better answer then.
no that helps I ask because I would love to get into cnc but I want to be able to do 3d engraving and carving things, not sure what kind of tolerance I will need to achieve that.
A machine like this works well for 3D engraving and carving of soft materials (wood, plastic), is marginal for metals like aluminum and brass, and impractical for cutting tough materials like steel. The main issue is rigidity - a more rigid (and expensive) machine can withstand the higher cutting forces from tough materials without deflecting too much. And as a broad generalization people usually expect tighter tolerances on steel parts than on wood or plastic parts. If you're doing mainly decorative work then tolerances can be quite loose, again a broad generalization.
It's also a question of time, because the cutting forces are less if you go slowly and you can get pretty tight tolerances if you're willing to fiddle with it to dial things in just right by trial and error. For hobby use that might be okay, e.g. I make about 1 guitar per year and I do it for fun so spending 4 hours making a fretboard or carving a neck is fine with me, whereas a production business would demand a higher-end machine that could turn parts out faster and more reliably. That said, even as a hobbyist if I had it to do over again I would spend more to buy or build a more rigid machine.
Good morning I want to build one to do hard steel works that you recommend to me of Spindle Conversion I thank you for your help
The biggest challenge with harder metals is keeping the machine rigid enough. A router-style machine like this is just not up to the task because it deflects too much with the higher cutting forces when cutting steel. The spindle is also not a very good choice for steel because it delivers less power at lower RPM. Lubrication is also a concern, as cutting steel makes a lot of heat that will quickly destroy cutting tools. That doesn't mean you can't possibly cut steel with this, and in fact some hobbyists do, but it would need very light cuts and small-diameter carbide tools. A milling machine is a much better choice if you're looking to cut ferrous metals, and the cost can be comparable if one of the small desktop mills is big enough for what you want.
you have mill your table flat. you can also mill your z axis plate in machine. clamp spindle on table and use it to mill it .am i only one? :)
My spoilboard is made from strips of MDF that are attached to the aluminum table using screws and T-nuts. The screws are countersunk well below the surface of the MDF, but I used plastic screws just in case I accidentally cut down into one of them. Using strips of MDF instead of a single large piece lets me slide T-bolts in between them for clamping workpieces. After the spoilboard is attached I mill it flat using a large-diameter bit, and I periodically re-surface it when it gets too chewed up.
I have not tried milling the Z axis plate as you suggest. It might be useful to do that in a very rigid machine where one could hold fairly tight tolerances with the Z axis, but unfortunately my Z axis assembly is not very rigid so I think that flattening the plate in the machine would have limited benefit.
motor 700W _2000w and stepper and another part 1set how much ?
I bought the spindle motor and VFD as a kit on amazon.com for about $250. You can also find them on eBay of course, along with stepper motors and CNC controllers such as the DDCSV1.1 that I used.
Hello
J'ai fait une CNC il y a quelques années avec le boitier DDCSV1.1 ,aujourd'hui je voudrais monter un tête laser ,avez vous déjà fait cela ,esque cela est possible ! Merci par avance
Salutations Joseph
Hello Joseph, I have not mounted a laser head on my machine but I'm sure it could work.
@@BrainRight Hello Merci pour la réponse ,oui effectivement la CNC peut fonctionner avec le laser mais le seul problème est avec le routeur DDCSV 1.1 ,je n'ai pas trouvé de commande pour piloter le laser dans le DDCSV et sur internet il n'y a rien sur le sujet
A bientôt et Bonne
année Joseph
@@GPTOmidi I think you would connect the laser-enable input to the spindle-enable output "M3/M5" and use M3 and M5 commands in g-code to turn the laser on and off, and to set the laser power. The VSO output can be used to control the laser power instead of the spindle speed.
@@BrainRight Hello Merci pour ta réponse .En cherchant dans la notice j'ai constaté qu'il y avait cette possibilité ,ce que tu m'indique dans ton message confirme ça ,je vais commander un laser 40W et quand il fonctionnera je t'informerais et si ça marche cela pourra servir à d'autres . encore merci pour ta recherche A bientôt Joseph
Put a camera inside the dust collection mop. No dust, and view remotely. Lol
You should have made your own machine in the first place... You have modified about everything by now...
True enough, but like most of my projects it's been an incremental learning process, and the original machine was entirely adequate for the simple woodworking projects I made with it in the beginning. Then I started making guitars and it didn't seem so adequate anymore.
I think he could have built a way better CNC himself than what he bought. Everything this guy does is so perfect, but the amount of play in that CNC is insane. Everything about that CNC machine is shitty. ...except the parts he built. The design of the CNC itself is just dumb dumb dumb. Mainly the gantry. It is much better to have the rails on top and bottom and on pedastals, and not just bars flopping around in the air.