I had a health issue about 4 weeks ago and coming home after a doctor visit about a week later I noticed the engine running very hot. When I popped the hood after arriving home I realized the water pump was definitely shot. I got online and ordered a replacement pump and then started checking the web on replacement videos. I came across your youtube video and ended up watching it several times before attempting to change the pump. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so mechanics don't scare me too much. Last Saturday, the 1st of June, I decided to change the thing. When I started it felt like I had done this before due to the fact that your video was so detailed and precise I tackled the job in about 5hrs start to finish with not a single hiccup. I just wanted to thank you for taking the time and effort to produce a tutorial like this and I will be looking for anything else you might have for any other faux pas I might encounter with my Avalon. Thank You ever so much, Tom
That's great news Tom! Wonderful success story on the water pump replacement. The videos we produce on the Avalon, Camry and Lexus ES can be cross referenced (via playlist) if using the same engine (i.e. 2 GR-FE). The playlist is "Toyota Camry / Avalon / ES300". Thanks for your support!
I just finished doing the job using your video as a guide. You did a great and thorough job in the video. Thank you very much for helping make this a possibility for a non-mechanic.
I have the same engine. Wow! Didn’t realize what it took to change the water pump. I just recently changed the spark plugs and that was challenging. Maybe Toyota and other males should seriously consider make areas of space to at least get some important tools in those tight places. Great job! You’re a pro.
I called a shop near me and they quoted me an ungodly amount of money to replace the water pump on my 2012 ES350, the Avalon is basically the same car. They tried saying sometimes the engine has to be pulled out, I thought the idea of that was crazy. Seemed like a way to charge me more hours for labor. I can get am oem water pump off eBay for $150 and just do it myself. I’ve replaced the alternator already along with a few other things already, I feel like I can be up to the task of doing this thanks to your detailed video. Hopefully I’ll be successful. 🙏
I have a feeling I’ll be doing this job on the Mother in Law’s Avalon pretty soon since I watched this video. She has 265k miles on her 2008 Avalon and just recently replaced an alternator. Thanks for the great video 👍 It’ll make my wife and in M-law very happy and my life easier when I tackle this task...
Thanks for your video, l changed my wife's water pump. That was really hard to do in such a tight space, but the jacking up of the motor was the key to just a couple of valuable inches of workspace. Thanks!!!
Awesome video! The dealer quoted me $900 to replace the pump and belt. Another said $700. I googled for video help and a really bad one convinced me NOT TO DO IT!! But your video is well laid out so I have it a shot. New pump was $124, belt, $15 and I bought $80 in tools. It was a little hectic and I ended up with 2 leftover bolts when finished?? (The dread of anyone who's ever worked on cars) But I backtracked and found the problems. Car is up and running great. Thanks a lot!!!
Great to hear that you did it yourself and save by big $$$. To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
My friend this was a great great great video. I swear you solidified my decision NOT to change my Water Pump. I no longer have this much patience to work on Japanese cars.
I hear ya ... but things are not getting any easier working on ANY specific make or model car. See what's involved in replacing the water pump on a V6 transversely mounted engine inside a GMC SUV. The GMC V6 is a timing chain driven engine and you'd be lucky if the timing chain cover doesn't leak before reaching 100k miles. Resealing the cover is around a 6 hour job. And you'd be lucky if the timing chains last past 200k miles. That's a little under 10 hrs labor, around $500 + in parts ... so you're looking at over a $2000 repair.
This was a great video and really provided a step by step. I don’t let anyone really work on my cars and I really was not sure how I was gonna tackle this one cause the manual didn’t offer much.
This helped a lot. Had to do this twice because the thermostat o ring took a shit and I had several missing bolts. Manage to get them all in. Bleeding the system of air was something. Now I know not to take a water pump for on a Toyota no time soon
Thanks so much for this, it was great. I just changed my 2007 Avalon water pump and it was a breeze thanks to this video. LOL my Haynes manual said you had to take out the engine to do it. You covered everything, and very well!
This is a great video but,....Just a heads up for anyone trying to do this. You are not going to this with a 78 piece wrench and socket set from homedepot, you are going to need the right tools. That means many of the same sockets in long and short and different drives, some specialty tools like the chain clamp where not all chain clamps work. Some chains are too thick to slip in between the power steering pulley and the water pump pulley requiring a screw driver to hold the water pump pulley in place instead while breaking loose the bolts. Pliers to remove clamps, etc. If you have a Serpentine belt tool kit, the thin bar can act as a breaker with a deep socket to break loose some of the harder to reach bolts. To get the second bolt off the mount on the drivers side you will need a 17mm deep socket and an extension. Don't take it out completely. There are some things that have been edited out like the two water pump bolts by the power steering pulley which are very difficult to remove without the right sockets and ratchet. Remember this video is edited and there are some small things that can pose problems that may have been skipped over. If you are at all mechanically inclined than you should be able to get through this with some small inconveniences. Be prepared to spend a lot more time then it took in the video, this guy makes it look easy because he knows what he is doing. As a suggestion, get every size socket mentioned in 3/8 and 1/4 inch deep and shallow. Get some long box end ratchet wrenches at least in 10,12,14 at a minimum. Having a slim ratchet head with long handle will help also.
Thanks for sharing! You're right. Tools are everything to either make the job possible or easier. Another way of removing the water pump pulley is to snap torque the 10mm nuts with the accessory belt on using a box wrench. They're only torqued on at around 10 lbs. Then with the belt removed, you should be able to remove the nuts with your finger tips. Where I've seen price quotes of up to $1,800 to replace this water pump, it's not a bad idea to invest in some decent tools. The published video is not a formal instruction video but rather a general guide. People who ask me for torque specs and more detail should use this video with a vehicle specific repair manual.
Wow, this looks so hard to do! I guess if I watch this over and over and over, it will become easy, but actually doing this over and over makes it that way. I’m guessing I’ll just hire The Car Care Nut!😂
I just replaced the water pump on my Avalon. Wasn't difficult but very time consuming! The video was informative. Thanks because I knew nothing about auto repair. And thanks for helping me save $$$.
Right on! Next to the coil packs & rubber oil line… this is the 3rd biggest problem with the 2GR-FE. If you have 150K and haven’t done this, do it! Preventative maintenance.
I don’t think they have the rubber oil line anymore for quite a while. I know it was a huge issue some time back but definitely something to replace if you have them.
Nope. Today's coolant technology is incredible good! They use OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant which only degrades if something from the outside contaminates the cooling system. I worked on a Camry V6 with over 200K miles and the coolant was still bright pink! Couldn't believe it! I'd say your radiator, hoses or water pump will give out before the coolant. So whatever drains out from the water pump replacement, just replenish it.
Great video with all steps laid out. I am curious, how could the engine be moved once the nut for the center mount on the passenger side was removed? Doesn't the engine have other nuts and bolts that keep it stable and from moving, e.g. near the driver side?
The engine will allow passenger side lift while pivoting on the driver's side mount. With the front motor mount bolt unscrewed but not removed will keep the engine centered.
Excellent video... thank you for taking the time to make it and share it! The water pump on my 2007 Avalon with 193,000 miles just started making noise and leaking. While it is quite I job, it's still do-able! A couple of questions. While you are changing the water pump, would you recommend changing the idler pulleys and tensioner pulley? Or if they go out later, can you get to them without raising the engine. ALSO, is a serpentine belt removal tool (in you link) necessary? Thanks!
Glad you found this video useful. With 200k miles on the accessory belt pulleys, it may be a good idea to replace them. Unfortunately there's 3 of them and they're not cheap. The third pulley (to the left of the water pump pulley) may be difficult to remove without slightly lifting the engine. The serpentine belt removal tool will give you the torque leverage to relieve the tension on the belt tensioner as well as let you get into that tight location. Help support our channel by hitting the thumbs up and get notifications of new videos by subscribing ... thanks!
Thank you SO much. Following your teaching, I get my Highlander water pump job done. Just some my own input, those ring nose hose removal pliers are extremely helpful, without them it's such a PITA to remove and re-connect the small hose connecting to the themostat housing coz there's no way to grab it to wiggle it off or on. And, I don't quite understand why you put RTV on those bracket bolts, I think RTV is used on rubber seals. Instead, I put anti-seize onto those bolts. I used RTV on 2 o-rings. Again, Thanks.
Thanks for your comment and support! Any you're right ... those long hose pliers go a long way in removing coolant hoses! I use RTV because in some cars, the behind the water pump mounting holes in the engine block may be coolant passages. Coolant could come out through the bolt holes. Also, RTV can be used as a thread lock. On new o rings, use di-electric grease because its water proof and does not swell rubber.
Hardly Moving Productions hey man I have a Toyota Avalon 2004 there seems to be leakage which I’m thinking is honestly just water coming out from everything I’m seeing it may just have to do with the ac it’s right around the mid front end underneath the car it’s clearly a small pipe that seems to be dripping this is normal ? It almost looks a bit white after taking a bit of a look at it but that’s what has me worried it of course could be more Hopefully I can get a response back appreciate it
Thanks so much for this detailed video. Need to replace my water pump also on my Avalon. Was not looking forward to it, but looks doable now with your help. Two thumps up!
Thanks for the detailed video. How do you tell the noise from the pump's bearing and idler pulley(s) or you replace them all just in case? What is the mileage of this car and how often this engine's water pump is replaced under normal driving condition? All your answers are appreciated.
140K miles. Take a long pry bar and place it next to the part that you think is making noise. Place your ear on the pry bar handle and listen for any grinding noise.
I took a stethoscope, remove the end film and that end working like a sound collector. Point the end toward each pulley and you should hear the difference. Then take the sepentine belt off, spin and wiggle them by your hand sometimes you will notice grinding noise or play.
@@hardlymovingpro Would love if you had some Ford 6.0 instructions, on injectors and such. Would be great to have some “Quality “ video on Trucks. Thanks again for the knowledge to repair my granddaughters car.👍
Not at all. You have to remove the thermostat housing assembly to get to the water pump anyway. Once the housing assembly is off, just remove the two nuts that holds the housing cover.
What strap wrench did you use? I have a Toyota spanner tool that I've used on my '05 Camry water pump pulley, but that strap tool looks like the way to go,
I hear a whining noise coming from under hood, when I accelerate it gets louder. Also I saw a small amount of water under vehicle. Could it be the water pump going out?
You got a video on replacement of rear spark plugs on this car I just did mine and when I did the rear #6 when I pulled on the big wiring harness to get the coil out I pulled the 3 wires going to the camshaft sensor right below it. 3 wires are yellow,red and black but now I dont know the order they go into the connector, by chance would you know much appreciated
hi, are the two idler pulleys exactly the same? how many idler pulleys are there? where do you buy the idler pulleys? Thank you for the detail videos! my 2006 avalon limited still makes quite loud rattling noise even after waterpump and serpentine belt replacement.
Also, that loud rattling noise may be from a failing water pump pulley. I would not assume the idler pulleys are going bad. Easy way to tell is to remove the serpentine belt and spin the wp pulley and idler pulleys with your hand. You should be able to tell the roughness in the bearings.
Great video! Because of your great work I’ll be doing my RX350 1 question though.. z are you using 2 jacks.. 1 to hold the car up and the another to jack the engine up from that?. I don’t wanna kill myself..
I was hearing sounds in the engine and after it was checked with the mechanic, he told me that the water pump must be changed and I changed it and I was surprised that the problem was not the cause 😂 Now is it good to change it anyway?
Depends on the mileage of the car. I'd replace it at around 100,000 miles. Other noise may be anything that rides on the accessory belt (pulleys, alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump bearings).
In the end, the problem was from the electrical dynamo... Few of the good specialists, mechanics or electricians, help you in solving your car's simple problems.. Thank you brother for answering our questions.
Most excellent job! I would have changed the thermostat while I am at it. Too easy not to since you have it all taken apart. How many miles did you have on that pump? I am at 95,000 and hoping mine will keep going to at least 125,000. One other point attached a vinyl tube to the bleeding nut and run it back to funnel coolant. Turn car on and run at 2,000 rpm’s until fluid starts flowing - small trickle continuously back into coolant funnel. Will take several minutes. Important to bleed it properly. Thanks again really great video
Thanks for sharing! These pumps will make noise (worn shaft bearing) before the pump completely goes. So you have a little bit of time to replace the pump before complete failure. After installation of the new pump, fill coolant via the radiator fill port and have the bleed nut loose. When a little coolant comes out air bubble free, you're good to go.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks! The bleed procedure if done properly involves attaching a vinyl tube to the bleed nut and running it back to the fill funnel. Check it out. It is much more thorough and gets all the air out. Doesn’t get coolant all over the engine either. Thanks
Considering doing this myself on an 08 avalon. The wp pulley is wobbling and making noise. 170k miles with no other noticeable issues. Would it be wise to replace other items with the pump or just one at a time?
Hello I haven’t had problems with the water pump yet on my 07avalon. Knock on wood. Almost at 200k miles. Should I replace it now or just wait until it leaks?
I'd replace it. Consider yourself fortunate you got 200k out of them. I've replaced them under 100k. I'd even replace the radiator. The plastic tank or the sealant that fuses the aluminum to plastic gives out. The upper and lower hoses last longer than the pump and radiator! You let your car overheat just one time, the head gaskets are gone. Then it's engine replacement time. All those head gasket sealants don't work on aluminum engines either. Not worth getting stuck somewhere where you'd get ripped off on a emergency repair. Dealers are charging upwards of $700 to replace a water pump. Maybe more for a radiator.
@Hardly Moving Productions thank you. Financial issues at the moment but I hope it can work until spring/summer time. Should I purchase the gates or oem version? And what radiator do you recommend? Thank you god bless you
EXCELLENT VIDEO which (as far as I know) is the first (and best) video on RUclips addressing this SPECIFIC subject! Thank you, thank you, thank you so much for your time and energy making it! Just a few questions... 1) Do you remember the year of this Avalon? (mine is a 2008 Limited) 2) The brush you used to clean off the water pump gasket... it looked like metal. Any particular kind of metal? (brass or???). 3) Would it be "safer" with a different type of brush &, if so, what kind do you recommend? I ask because it seems like you could possibly scratch the mating surface and, thus, create the opportunity for a leak. 4) If the Tensioner and Thermostat have not been replaced yet (prior to changing out the W Pump) would you recommend the preventative replacement of any or all of them (since you are "near them" as far as labor is concerned) and are there any other wear items that I failed to list that would be smart to replace at the same time (if so, what)? I have ZERO experience with the following but was still very surprised that you lifted the engine ALL the way off the mount (at bottom of engine). Most videos I see try to keep it on by leaving the nut a bit threaded at the top so I assumed that the engine mount would be very difficult (or impossible) to line back up and tighten down if fully taken off. In this video you seem to do it with ease. 5) Are they usually that easy? 6) If you leave it slightly on the mount, is the job still doable as shown in your video? 7) In your opinion, would a pretty experienced DIY guy (I am about a "7" DIYer on a scale of 1-10) be better off leaving the nut slightly on the mount and not fully removing it... or should I not worry about it and take it all the way off???? You seem like you have done a lot of these on the 3rd gen Avalons... 8) what is (roughly) the typical mileage that replacement becomes necessary on these V6 engines? Sorry about all the questions, but I feel that this is probably needed for my car in the very near future. I would greatly appreciate your fast reply. Again, Thank you sooooooo much (and kudos to you) for this AWESOME video!!!.
You're very welcome for you wonderful comment. I'll answer you questions one at a time: 1. Believe it was a 2008 Avalon. The important thing to know is that the V6 is a 2GR-FE engine which is shared in a lot of Toyota and Lexus vehicles starting in around 2006. 2. It's a metal rotary wire brush attached to a right angle drill. It will put fine hairline scratches on the aluminum contact surfaces. This is perfectly fine. Important thing is to wire brush on an angle ... not direct. You may want to break in a new brush by brushing against concrete to get the brush hairs on a angle. Do not use any type of sandpaper to clean the contact surfaces. 3. Steel wire brush of medium grade is fine. 4. Always a good idea to replace wear items like the thermostat, tensioner and idler pulleys on high mileage car (150K + miles). 5. Loosening or removing the center mount bolt will allow you to tilt the engine with little effort using a hydraulic jack under the oil pan (place a wood block between to distribute the support to prevent the oil pan from bending). 6. Yes. 7. You can leave the nut slightly on. 8. Replacement is needed when the bearings give out (makes noise or can see wobbling) or you see your coolant reservoir level dropping and fluid spots on the behind the right front wheel (pump weep hole leak).
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the fast reply. I forgot to mention that my Avalon has only 100K miles on it right now so two more question... 1) If the water pump OR something else in the area fails (god forbid) prior to 150K-ish, would you go ahead and replace the water pump and the items you listed or would just replace the single failed part and then wait until roughly 150K (or whenever the next failure occurs in that general area) to replace the rest of the items? Also, on a tangent of sorts, I have had a light intermittent squeak (that only seems to occur in park & at idle) that I cannot locate specifically on that side for probably the last 9 months (it was non existent below 75 degrees) I think the most likely culprit is the water pump, tensioner, or (god forbid) the AC compressor (or its clutch). I was hoping it would go away with my new alternator, but no. I have even tried to listen through some PVC tubing to try to isolate it but I just can NOT specifically locate it... :-( 2) What are your thoughts as to the most likely culprit and are there any other VERY likely causes that would completely disappear when temps fall? Thanks again!
@@jotu173 If you're doing all the work yourself, replace it all. I today's auto repair market, the big $$$'s is in labor ... less so in parts ... if you shop around for the parts. The squeak could be a worn belt. PVC tubing won't resonant noise. You need a metal rod ... like a long pry bar.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks again for the fast reply. I forgot to say in last message that I have already replaced the belt and tried putting my ear to a long, thin screw driver (does that qualify as a metal bar?) as well as a "mechanic's stethoscope" type tool. The obvious problem is that I can not push them up against moving (possibly squeaking) pullies. What seemed to work best (but still not effective) was letting the actual sound travel up a 4 ft long 1/8 PVC pipe with an L bend at the end to try isolate the noise area (the PVC pipe can fit down side of engine bay while running). With all these devices, I can hear it... I just can't specifically pinpoint it. So, unless (hopefully) you have a better idea, I think I am just gonna have to wait for something to fail. If any more ideas, then please share. Regardless... thanks again!
@@jotu173 I wouldn't wait. Take the belt off and turn the water pump, alternator, p/w pump, a/c compressor and all pulleys and spin/turn back and forth by hand. Feel for anything that doesn't seem to feel smooth. I'd bet it's the water pump. I've seen them go bad in under 100k miles. Had a guy with a Sienna with the same mindset. Waited until the w/p bearings went bad, all the coolant blew out and had to get the car towed. Of course it happened on the weekend and he was out of a vehicle for 4 days.
@@ruiwu3604 It's a press fitted component. Don't know of anyone that sells a bearing rebuild / replacement kit. If you find one, let me know. I'd make a video.
Down here in Memphis the dealers are charging around $700 net. Labor rate is $120/hr. I can do the job in under 3 hr. The Aisin OEM part is under $120. Toyota red coolant premixed @ Walmart is $13
I own almost the same Avalon with 3.5l v6. The idler pulley started to squeak loudly. I'm thinking replacing a belt as well. What brand would you recommend for all these parts and would you replace the tensioner pulley that comes with bracket as well? I've got 245k miles on my 06 Avalon.
Yes ... Replacing the pulleys and belt because of the noise and mileage would be prudent. Recommend Bando for the belt and either Koyo, GMB, Timken or SKF for the bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro did you mean pulley assemblies or just bearings of those brands? I tried to find sellers of idler pulleys and tensioner pulley of brands you mentioned and didn't find any.
Noise from worn out bearings is one symptom ... the other is continuous coolant leakage/seepage at or around the water pump's weep hole, gasket or seal. When it leaks, the coolant "slings" around water pump pulley area. You can use a pry tool pressed against the pump and put you ear against the other end of the pry tool. If you hear a grinding noise, the pump bearing is on its way out.
where is the one nut that you take off the thermostat housing thats with the two bolts? what size is the nut? can't figure out where it is under the housing.
The bolt mounting point holes may pass through coolant passage ways. If sealant (RTV) is not applied to the bolt threads, coolant seepage may occur through the bolt holes. If seen this happen with other water pump bolt holes. Also, the water pump's 12 mm bolts, when pulled for the first time, had sealant residue on the threads.
Did a ac condenser replacement on a crown vic. Took me 2X longer than a Toyota. Also a valve cover gasket replacement took me 3X longer and the plastic valve cover was cracked.
I had a health issue about 4 weeks ago and coming home after a doctor visit about a week later I noticed the engine running very hot. When I popped the hood after arriving home I realized the water pump was definitely shot. I got online and ordered a replacement pump and then started checking the web on replacement videos. I came across your youtube video and ended up watching it several times before attempting to change the pump. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so mechanics don't scare me too much. Last Saturday, the 1st of June, I decided to change the thing. When I started it felt like I had done this before due to the fact that your video was so detailed and precise I tackled the job in about 5hrs start to finish with not a single hiccup. I just wanted to thank you for taking the time and effort to produce a tutorial like this and I will be looking for anything else you might have for any other faux pas I might encounter with my Avalon. Thank You ever so much, Tom
That's great news Tom! Wonderful success story on the water pump replacement. The videos we produce on the Avalon, Camry and Lexus ES can be cross referenced (via playlist) if using the same engine (i.e. 2 GR-FE). The playlist is "Toyota Camry / Avalon / ES300". Thanks for your support!
Any tips I may attempt this
this video is gold for avalon repairs, have not found much material with great instructions and camera work, really great job
Glad you liked it!
I just finished doing the job using your video as a guide. You did a great and thorough job in the video. Thank you very much for helping make this a possibility for a non-mechanic.
Glad it helped!
I don't even have a Toyota Avalon but really enjoyed this video. Learn a trick or two every time I watch a great mechanic do their magic. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video. No gaps in work done. And good explanation of what’s being done and what’s about to be done.
Thanks!
I have the same engine. Wow! Didn’t realize what it took to change the water pump. I just recently changed the spark plugs and that was challenging. Maybe Toyota and other males should seriously consider make areas of space to at least get some important tools in those tight places. Great job! You’re a pro.
Thanks!
I called a shop near me and they quoted me an ungodly amount of money to replace the water pump on my 2012 ES350, the Avalon is basically the same car. They tried saying sometimes the engine has to be pulled out, I thought the idea of that was crazy. Seemed like a way to charge me more hours for labor. I can get am oem water pump off eBay for $150 and just do it myself. I’ve replaced the alternator already along with a few other things already, I feel like I can be up to the task of doing this thanks to your detailed video. Hopefully I’ll be successful. 🙏
Good luck with the repair and let's us know how it worked out!
I have a feeling I’ll be doing this job on the Mother in Law’s Avalon pretty soon since I watched this video. She has 265k miles on her 2008 Avalon and just recently replaced an alternator. Thanks for the great video 👍 It’ll make my wife and in M-law very happy and my life easier when I tackle this task...
Good luck with the job! If you have any questions, let me know!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks...Subscribed for more of your informative videos 👍
Thanks for your video, l changed my wife's water pump. That was really hard to do in such a tight space, but the jacking up of the motor was the key to just a couple of valuable inches of workspace. Thanks!!!
Great job! Believe Toyota's repair procedure is to drop the engine.
Awesome video! The dealer quoted me $900 to replace the pump and belt. Another said $700. I googled for video help and a really bad one convinced me NOT TO DO IT!! But your video is well laid out so I have it a shot. New pump was $124, belt, $15 and I bought $80 in tools. It was a little hectic and I ended up with 2 leftover bolts when finished?? (The dread of anyone who's ever worked on cars) But I backtracked and found the problems. Car is up and running great. Thanks a lot!!!
Great to hear that you did it yourself and save by big $$$.
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My friend this was a great great great video. I swear you solidified my decision NOT to change my Water Pump.
I no longer have this much patience to work on Japanese cars.
I hear ya ... but things are not getting any easier working on ANY specific make or model car. See what's involved in replacing the water pump on a V6 transversely mounted engine inside a GMC SUV. The GMC V6 is a timing chain driven engine and you'd be lucky if the timing chain cover doesn't leak before reaching 100k miles. Resealing the cover is around a 6 hour job. And you'd be lucky if the timing chains last past 200k miles. That's a little under 10 hrs labor, around $500 + in parts ... so you're looking at over a $2000 repair.
I hear you! It's getting tougher and tougher to do your own repairs much less diagnose the cause of a problem.
its surprisingly easier in the GS/IS350 V6"lol
Me too , I feel the same , hard to do that much now
Japanese cars are the easiest to work on.
This was a great video and really provided a step by step. I don’t let anyone really work on my cars and I really was not sure how I was gonna tackle this one cause the manual didn’t offer much.
Glad you liked it!
You are amazing. This was better than any step by ate video I’ve ever seen.
Thanks!
This helped a lot. Had to do this twice because the thermostat o ring took a shit and I had several missing bolts. Manage to get them all in. Bleeding the system of air was something. Now I know not to take a water pump for on a Toyota no time soon
thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much for this, it was great. I just changed my 2007 Avalon water pump and it was a breeze thanks to this video. LOL my Haynes manual said you had to take out the engine to do it. You covered everything, and very well!
Thanks! Glad it worked out for you!
Very clear and precise on the instruction. I will watch this another 5 times so it will be easy to remember the procedures. Great job.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great video but,....Just a heads up for anyone trying to do this.
You are not going to this with a 78 piece wrench and socket set from homedepot, you are going to need the right tools. That means many of the same sockets in long and short and different drives, some specialty tools like the chain clamp where not all chain clamps work. Some chains are too thick to slip in between the power steering pulley and the water pump pulley requiring a screw driver to hold the water pump pulley in place instead while breaking loose the bolts. Pliers to remove clamps, etc. If you have a Serpentine belt tool kit, the thin bar can act as a breaker with a deep socket to break loose some of the harder to reach bolts. To get the second bolt off the mount on the drivers side you will need a 17mm deep socket and an extension. Don't take it out completely. There are some things that have been edited out like the two water pump bolts by the power steering pulley which are very difficult to remove without the right sockets and ratchet. Remember this video is edited and there are some small things that can pose problems that may have been skipped over. If you are at all mechanically inclined than you should be able to get through this with some small inconveniences. Be prepared to spend a lot more time then it took in the video, this guy makes it look easy because he knows what he is doing.
As a suggestion, get every size socket mentioned in 3/8 and 1/4 inch deep and shallow. Get some long box end ratchet wrenches at least in 10,12,14 at a minimum. Having a slim ratchet head with long handle will help also.
Thanks for sharing! You're right. Tools are everything to either make the job possible or easier. Another way of removing the water pump pulley is to snap torque the 10mm nuts with the accessory belt on using a box wrench. They're only torqued on at around 10 lbs. Then with the belt removed, you should be able to remove the nuts with your finger tips. Where I've seen price quotes of up to $1,800 to replace this water pump, it's not a bad idea to invest in some decent tools. The published video is not a formal instruction video but rather a general guide. People who ask me for torque specs and more detail should use this video with a vehicle specific repair manual.
Wow, this looks so hard to do! I guess if I watch this over and over and over, it will become easy, but actually doing this over and over makes it that way. I’m guessing I’ll just hire The Car Care Nut!😂
Last quote from a Lexus dealer on doing this replacement was $1,800! Can you believe it? Takes me a little over 3 hours labor time.
@@hardlymovingproMan, salute to you doing this job!!
Great video. Thanks for telling everyone from the beginning that you must tilt the motor. Some people say to do without.
You bet!
fantastic video
Thanks for the visit!
You make it look so easy.
Your channel is beyond helpful sir and definitely stands out. Thank you.
Glad you think so and thanks for your support!
Thanks for your time.
No problem.
I just replaced the water pump on my Avalon. Wasn't difficult but very time consuming! The video was informative. Thanks because I knew nothing about auto repair. And thanks for helping me save $$$.
Good for you!
That’s a Great explanation video. On replacing water pump. you make it look so easy
Thanks!
You're a good mechanic and conscience, but this's difficult for me. Thank you for your guidance.
You bet!
Right on!
Next to the coil packs & rubber oil line… this is the 3rd biggest problem with the 2GR-FE. If you have 150K and haven’t done this, do it! Preventative maintenance.
You got it! PM is the way to go! That's why planes aren't falling out of the sky.
I don’t think they have the rubber oil line anymore for quite a while. I know it was a huge issue some time back but definitely something to replace if you have them.
I like the video keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
Tried to help my dad, he busted the tensioner bolt adding more pain in the butt but other than that it was a helpful tip
Glad it worked out!
Great video so you don't have to drain whole coolant from the system
Nope. Today's coolant technology is incredible good! They use OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant which only degrades if something from the outside contaminates the cooling system. I worked on a Camry V6 with over 200K miles and the coolant was still bright pink! Couldn't believe it! I'd say your radiator, hoses or water pump will give out before the coolant. So whatever drains out from the water pump replacement, just replenish it.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
3:50 Nice trick to remove the belt.
Thanks. Live and learn.
Great video with all steps laid out. I am curious, how could the engine be moved once the nut for the center mount on the passenger side was removed? Doesn't the engine have other nuts and bolts that keep it stable and from moving, e.g. near the driver side?
The engine will allow passenger side lift while pivoting on the driver's side mount. With the front motor mount bolt unscrewed but not removed will keep the engine centered.
Excellent video... thank you for taking the time to make it and share it! The water pump on my 2007 Avalon with 193,000 miles just started making noise and leaking. While it is quite I job, it's still do-able!
A couple of questions. While you are changing the water pump, would you recommend changing the idler pulleys and tensioner pulley? Or if they go out later, can you get to them without raising the engine. ALSO, is a serpentine belt removal tool (in you link) necessary? Thanks!
Glad you found this video useful. With 200k miles on the accessory belt pulleys, it may be a good idea to replace them. Unfortunately there's 3 of them and they're not cheap. The third pulley (to the left of the water pump pulley) may be difficult to remove without slightly lifting the engine. The serpentine belt removal tool will give you the torque leverage to relieve the tension on the belt tensioner as well as let you get into that tight location.
Help support our channel by hitting the thumbs up and get notifications of new videos by subscribing ... thanks!
Thank you SO much. Following your teaching, I get my Highlander water pump job done. Just some my own input, those ring nose hose removal pliers are extremely helpful, without them it's such a PITA to remove and re-connect the small hose connecting to the themostat housing coz there's no way to grab it to wiggle it off or on. And, I don't quite understand why you put RTV on those bracket bolts, I think RTV is used on rubber seals. Instead, I put anti-seize onto those bolts. I used RTV on 2 o-rings. Again, Thanks.
Thanks for your comment and support! Any you're right ... those long hose pliers go a long way in removing coolant hoses!
I use RTV because in some cars, the behind the water pump mounting holes in the engine block may be coolant passages. Coolant could come out through the bolt holes. Also, RTV can be used as a thread lock. On new o rings, use di-electric grease because its water proof and does not swell rubber.
Great job mate : )
Thanks!
Hardly Moving Productions hey man I have a Toyota Avalon 2004 there seems to be leakage which I’m thinking is honestly just water coming out from everything I’m seeing it may just have to do with the ac it’s right around the mid front end underneath the car it’s clearly a small pipe that seems to be dripping this is normal ? It almost looks a bit white after taking a bit of a look at it but that’s what has me worried it of course could be more
Hopefully I can get a response back appreciate it
It sounds like water coming out from your ac condensation tube. Check your coolant reservoir level. Fill up if low and check later for fluid drop.
Thanks so much for this detailed video. Need to replace my water pump also on my Avalon. Was not looking forward to it, but looks doable now with your help. Two thumps up!
Thanks and you bet!
Wow that's a lot of work
Great job 👍♥️
Thanks!
Really excellent, great work.
Glad you like it!
Thanks for the detailed video. How do you tell the noise from the pump's bearing and idler pulley(s) or you replace them all just in case? What is the mileage of this car and how often this engine's water pump is replaced under normal driving condition? All your answers are appreciated.
140K miles. Take a long pry bar and place it next to the part that you think is making noise. Place your ear on the pry bar handle and listen for any grinding noise.
I took a stethoscope, remove the end film and that end working like a sound collector. Point the end toward each pulley and you should hear the difference. Then take the sepentine belt off, spin and wiggle them by your hand sometimes you will notice grinding noise or play.
@@slowerdaddy thanks a lot.
Good job thank
Welcome 👍
You didn’t mention anything about torque specs.
Great video.
Thanks! You'll have to get them out of Haynes a repair manual or a source online.
Спасибо за очень позновательное видео!
пожалуйста
Nice Job! thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful video
Thanks for your comment and support!
Excellent Video 👍 Best I’ve seen.
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro Would love if you had some Ford 6.0 instructions, on injectors and such. Would be great to have some “Quality “ video on Trucks. Thanks again for the knowledge to repair my granddaughters car.👍
You bet!
Great video!! Is it any extra time or difficulty to replace the thermostat when chasing the pump?
Not at all. You have to remove the thermostat housing assembly to get to the water pump anyway. Once the housing assembly is off, just remove the two nuts that holds the housing cover.
Thanks,got to get me one of them funnels
Useful tool!
What strap wrench did you use? I have a Toyota spanner tool that I've used on my '05 Camry water pump pulley, but that strap tool looks like the way to go,
That's a vice grip locking chain strap wrench. Link to the tool should be in the text description area of this video.
How do you lift the engine up? Last time I jack it up by the oil pan and it bent. I don’t want an engine crane if it can be avoided
Place a square wooden block between the jack and the pan. The block will spread the lift as to not bend the pan.
Thank you very much
You bet!
Great job sir
Thanks!
شغل ممتاز👍👍
Were you loosening the center engine mount nut around 1:37?
Never mind, got the answer at 10:45, it's the front motor mount
Great video
Thanks for your comment and support!
hello I have 2006 Toyota Avalon with 190,000 mi how long and I have to change the water pump ?
If you've gone over 150,000 mi without it failing, consider yourself fortunate. On the V6 GR-FE engine, they tend to fail at around 100,000 mi.
Great Job!
Thanks!
I hear a whining noise coming from under hood, when I accelerate it gets louder. Also I saw a small amount of water under vehicle. Could it be the water pump going out?
Yes, it could be if the water is red in color.
Do you have to remove the alternator and ac compressor to change the belt tensioner?
Don't think so. Can't say since I never had a occasion to replace one.
Is this a 2-3 hour job ? ( How long it would take the dealer to complete the job ? )
For an experienced mechanic who've done this before, under 3 hours. For first timers, 4 + hours.
How long of a process would you say this is? I plan on changing my own on wed, or at least attempting...
Taking my time, it takes me around 3 hours.
Just got it, no leaks. Thank you so much!!
Hello, I have a Toyota Camry 3.5 2009. I hear metal screeching. Where is the band? Do you think it could be the water pump?
Without more details, it's difficult to say. Get a free estimate at Firestone, Gateway or PepBoys.
thank you & subscribed your channel!
Thanks for the sub!
Good 👍🏻
Thanks ✌️
You got a video on replacement of rear spark plugs on this car I just did mine and when I did the rear #6 when I pulled on the big wiring harness to get the coil out I pulled the 3 wires going to the camshaft sensor right below it. 3 wires are yellow,red and black but now I dont know the order they go into the connector, by chance would you know much appreciated
There are two of the same sensors. Just follow the layout of the other sensor.
hi, are the two idler pulleys exactly the same? how many idler pulleys are there? where do you buy the idler pulleys? Thank you for the detail videos! my 2006 avalon limited still makes quite loud rattling noise even after waterpump and serpentine belt replacement.
Yes ... the two (2) idler pulleys are the same; however, the tensioner pulley is slightly different.
Also, that loud rattling noise may be from a failing water pump pulley. I would not assume the idler pulleys are going bad. Easy way to tell is to remove the serpentine belt and spin the wp pulley and idler pulleys with your hand. You should be able to tell the roughness in the bearings.
A replacement idler pulley can be obtained from a Amazon link within this video description.
Hardly Moving Productions Thanks a ton for your answer. It helps a ton. God blesses!!!
No problem, my pleasure and good luck with the repair!
Great video! Sadly I would rather let my car die than try to replace this.
Or let someone else replace it?
Great video! Because of your great work I’ll be doing my RX350
1 question though.. z are you using 2 jacks.. 1 to hold the car up and the another to jack the engine up from that?. I don’t wanna kill myself..
Yup ... to tilt the engine up slightly when the right front wheel is off.
I was hearing sounds in the engine and after it was checked with the mechanic, he told me that the water pump must be changed and I changed it and I was surprised that the problem was not the cause 😂 Now is it good to change it anyway?
Depends on the mileage of the car. I'd replace it at around 100,000 miles. Other noise may be anything that rides on the accessory belt (pulleys, alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump bearings).
In the end, the problem was from the electrical dynamo... Few of the good specialists, mechanics or electricians, help you in solving your car's simple problems.. Thank you brother for answering our questions.
@@user-ty2ti7fn2n - so should i change my alternator?
Most excellent job! I would have changed the thermostat while I am at it. Too easy not to since you have it all taken apart. How many miles did you have on that pump? I am at 95,000 and hoping mine will keep going to at least 125,000.
One other point attached a vinyl tube to the bleeding nut and run it back to funnel coolant. Turn car on and run at 2,000 rpm’s until fluid starts flowing - small trickle continuously back into coolant funnel. Will take several minutes. Important to bleed it properly. Thanks again really great video
Thanks for sharing! These pumps will make noise (worn shaft bearing) before the pump completely goes. So you have a little bit of time to replace the pump before complete failure. After installation of the new pump, fill coolant via the radiator fill port and have the bleed nut loose. When a little coolant comes out air bubble free, you're good to go.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks! The bleed procedure if done properly involves attaching a vinyl tube to the bleed nut and running it back to the fill funnel. Check it out. It is much more thorough and gets all the air out. Doesn’t get coolant all over the engine either. Thanks
@@condor5635 thanks for sharing!
If you'd crack the water pump pulley bolts loose while the belt was still on, you wouldn't need to mess around with that "strap wrench".
You're right but doesn't work all the time.
***I thought you are supposed to have your heater on at high while running the engine?
Doesn't matter unless you're trying to clear out an air pocket.
Whats a good price to pay for labor on replacement?
3.5 hours x labor rate
Those wrenches are a necessity when working on a front wheel drive car.
Yes ... they do help a lot and makes the job easier.
Considering doing this myself on an 08 avalon. The wp pulley is wobbling and making noise. 170k miles with no other noticeable issues. Would it be wise to replace other items with the pump or just one at a time?
Accessory belt and maybe pulleys.
So i want replace thrmostat for toyota avlon 2011 how where the location
Go to the 3:42 video time mark. Remove the 2 10 mm nuts on that coolant manifold I disconnected and then you'll see it.
Does 70 ft/lbs sound about right for the lower engine mount bolts?
I'd say that's about right
Hello I haven’t had problems with the water pump yet on my 07avalon. Knock on wood. Almost at 200k miles. Should I replace it now or just wait until it leaks?
I'd replace it. Consider yourself fortunate you got 200k out of them. I've replaced them under 100k. I'd even replace the radiator. The plastic tank or the sealant that fuses the aluminum to plastic gives out. The upper and lower hoses last longer than the pump and radiator! You let your car overheat just one time, the head gaskets are gone. Then it's engine replacement time. All those head gasket sealants don't work on aluminum engines either. Not worth getting stuck somewhere where you'd get ripped off on a emergency repair. Dealers are charging upwards of $700 to replace a water pump. Maybe more for a radiator.
@Hardly Moving Productions thank you. Financial issues at the moment but I hope it can work until spring/summer time. Should I purchase the gates or oem version? And what radiator do you recommend? Thank you god bless you
Gates is good. Aisin is the OEM. Denso makes the radiator.
@Hardly Moving Productions thank you so much. Also, would lifting up the motor mess up the exhaust pipes? The flex pipes? God bless you
What are torques when you put back all screws?
I hand torque by feel.
EXCELLENT VIDEO which (as far as I know) is the first (and best) video on RUclips addressing this SPECIFIC subject! Thank you, thank you, thank you so much for your time and energy making it! Just a few questions... 1) Do you remember the year of this Avalon? (mine is a 2008 Limited) 2) The brush you used to clean off the water pump gasket... it looked like metal. Any particular kind of metal? (brass or???). 3) Would it be "safer" with a different type of brush &, if so, what kind do you recommend? I ask because it seems like you could possibly scratch the mating surface and, thus, create the opportunity for a leak. 4) If the Tensioner and Thermostat have not been replaced yet (prior to changing out the W Pump) would you recommend the preventative replacement of any or all of them (since you are "near them" as far as labor is concerned) and are there any other wear items that I failed to list that would be smart to replace at the same time (if so, what)? I have ZERO experience with the following but was still very surprised that you lifted the engine ALL the way off the mount (at bottom of engine). Most videos I see try to keep it on by leaving the nut a bit threaded at the top so I assumed that the engine mount would be very difficult (or impossible) to line back up and tighten down if fully taken off. In this video you seem to do it with ease. 5) Are they usually that easy? 6) If you leave it slightly on the mount, is the job still doable as shown in your video? 7) In your opinion, would a pretty experienced DIY guy (I am about a "7" DIYer on a scale of 1-10) be better off leaving the nut slightly on the mount and not fully removing it... or should I not worry about it and take it all the way off???? You seem like you have done a lot of these on the 3rd gen Avalons... 8) what is (roughly) the typical mileage that replacement becomes necessary on these V6 engines? Sorry about all the questions, but I feel that this is probably needed for my car in the very near future. I would greatly appreciate your fast reply. Again, Thank you sooooooo much (and kudos to you) for this AWESOME video!!!.
You're very welcome for you wonderful comment. I'll answer you questions one at a time:
1. Believe it was a 2008 Avalon. The important thing to know is that the V6 is a 2GR-FE engine which is shared in a lot of Toyota and Lexus vehicles starting in around 2006.
2. It's a metal rotary wire brush attached to a right angle drill. It will put fine hairline scratches on the aluminum contact surfaces. This is perfectly fine. Important thing is to wire brush on an angle ... not direct. You may want to break in a new brush by brushing against concrete to get the brush hairs on a angle. Do not use any type of sandpaper to clean the contact surfaces.
3. Steel wire brush of medium grade is fine.
4. Always a good idea to replace wear items like the thermostat, tensioner and idler pulleys on high mileage car (150K + miles).
5. Loosening or removing the center mount bolt will allow you to tilt the engine with little effort using a hydraulic jack under the oil pan (place a wood block between to distribute the support to prevent the oil pan from bending).
6. Yes.
7. You can leave the nut slightly on.
8. Replacement is needed when the bearings give out (makes noise or can see wobbling) or you see your coolant reservoir level dropping and fluid spots on the behind the right front wheel (pump weep hole leak).
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the fast reply. I forgot to mention that my Avalon has only 100K miles on it right now so two more question... 1) If the water pump OR something else in the area fails (god forbid) prior to 150K-ish, would you go ahead and replace the water pump and the items you listed or would just replace the single failed part and then wait until roughly 150K (or whenever the next failure occurs in that general area) to replace the rest of the items? Also, on a tangent of sorts, I have had a light intermittent squeak (that only seems to occur in park & at idle) that I cannot locate specifically on that side for probably the last 9 months (it was non existent below 75 degrees) I think the most likely culprit is the water pump, tensioner, or (god forbid) the AC compressor (or its clutch). I was hoping it would go away with my new alternator, but no. I have even tried to listen through some PVC tubing to try to isolate it but I just can NOT specifically locate it... :-( 2) What are your thoughts as to the most likely culprit and are there any other VERY likely causes that would completely disappear when temps fall? Thanks again!
@@jotu173 If you're doing all the work yourself, replace it all. I today's auto repair market, the big $$$'s is in labor ... less so in parts ... if you shop around for the parts. The squeak could be a worn belt. PVC tubing won't resonant noise. You need a metal rod ... like a long pry bar.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks again for the fast reply. I forgot to say in last message that I have already replaced the belt and tried putting my ear to a long, thin screw driver (does that qualify as a metal bar?) as well as a "mechanic's stethoscope" type tool. The obvious problem is that I can not push them up against moving (possibly squeaking) pullies. What seemed to work best (but still not effective) was letting the actual sound travel up a 4 ft long 1/8 PVC pipe with an L bend at the end to try isolate the noise area (the PVC pipe can fit down side of engine bay while running). With all these devices, I can hear it... I just can't specifically pinpoint it. So, unless (hopefully) you have a better idea, I think I am just gonna have to wait for something to fail. If any more ideas, then please share. Regardless... thanks again!
@@jotu173 I wouldn't wait. Take the belt off and turn the water pump, alternator, p/w pump, a/c compressor and all pulleys and spin/turn back and forth by hand. Feel for anything that doesn't seem to feel smooth. I'd bet it's the water pump. I've seen them go bad in under 100k miles. Had a guy with a Sienna with the same mindset. Waited until the w/p bearings went bad, all the coolant blew out and had to get the car towed. Of course it happened on the weekend and he was out of a vehicle for 4 days.
Question : how you know the pump is bad ? My Avalon run and drive good , no over heat , just have some noise around the belt area ? Is it water pump?
Could be the water pump worn bearing noise.
@@hardlymovingpro you can’t just replace the bearing ? Or you have to do the whole thing ? The bearing is inside the pump , correct ?
@@ruiwu3604 It's a press fitted component. Don't know of anyone that sells a bearing rebuild / replacement kit. If you find one, let me know. I'd make a video.
What did you put on the bolts
Nothing.
@@hardlymovingpro i thought it was some kind of grease
You can coat with RTV to prevent coolant seepage.
is trv not recommended on the gasket?
Not if it's metal with an inside edge rubber gasket.
I live in Brooklyn, NY. A dealer charged me $684 for labor (labor rate $149/hr) and $ 289 for the water and 54 for coolant. What's your opinion?
Down here in Memphis the dealers are charging around $700 net. Labor rate is $120/hr. I can do the job in under 3 hr. The Aisin OEM part is under $120. Toyota red coolant premixed @ Walmart is $13
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! I see the water pump for $ 184. They charged me $ 289
Way overpriced! For another $50, I'd do the whole job parts and labor.
I own almost the same Avalon with 3.5l v6. The idler pulley started to squeak loudly. I'm thinking replacing a belt as well. What brand would you recommend for all these parts and would you replace the tensioner pulley that comes with bracket as well? I've got 245k miles on my 06 Avalon.
Yes ... Replacing the pulleys and belt because of the noise and mileage would be prudent. Recommend Bando for the belt and either Koyo, GMB, Timken or SKF for the bearings.
Also worn bearings in the alternator can cause noise.
@@hardlymovingpro I sprinkled a 303 protectant on the idler pulley and the noise was gone immediately.
Good indication that it needs replacement
@@hardlymovingpro did you mean pulley assemblies or just bearings of those brands? I tried to find sellers of idler pulleys and tensioner pulley of brands you mentioned and didn't find any.
and how did you diagnose pump failure what were the symptoms?thanks
Noise from worn out bearings is one symptom ... the other is continuous coolant leakage/seepage at or around the water pump's weep hole, gasket or seal. When it leaks, the coolant "slings" around water pump pulley area. You can use a pry tool pressed against the pump and put you ear against the other end of the pry tool. If you hear a grinding noise, the pump bearing is on its way out.
@@hardlymovingpro exactly what I have! thanks man best video on youtube next project will be the spark plugs I saw some video on your channel
Great! And good luck with the repair and thanks for your support!
where is the one nut that you take off the thermostat housing thats with the two bolts? what size is the nut? can't figure out where it is under the housing.
Look at the 7:16 video time mark. With the housing removed, you can see the stud sticking out.
Hardly Moving Productions 10mm? Need a longer socket since the bolt is longer?
@@ianbrown2989 Yes. 10 mm and a longer socket.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you!
@@ianbrown2989 You bet!
Is there torque specs for the water pump bolts?
Here you go. Sienna uses the same engine: www.tsienna.net/installation-696.html
👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks!
How long did this whole process take?
Last one I did on a Sienna with a friend ... 2 hours. Average 3.5 hours
Where did you get the radiator filler?
A link to the spill free funnel is provided in the "Show More" section of this video.
Did you drain the coolant first or no?
Nope. Faster and easier to let the coolant drain out from the engine block.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you. Attempting this tomorrow on my mothers vehicle. Hopefully that's the problem.
Where do you live,this is what I need done
East of Memphis, TN
@@hardlymovingpro I'm in East Tenn, Grainger county
Email: hardlymoving@gmail.com
why RTV on the bolts
The bolt mounting point holes may pass through coolant passage ways. If sealant (RTV) is not applied to the bolt threads, coolant seepage may occur through the bolt holes. If seen this happen with other water pump bolt holes. Also, the water pump's 12 mm bolts, when pulled for the first time, had sealant residue on the threads.
How much would the labor on this job be?
Around 3 hours labor time. Different shops have different labor rates. You'll have to shop around.
👍
طلع شغل الافالون صعب جدددااا🙈 شكلي ببيع سيارتي
God bless Toyota engineers.
I've seen too many cars that require you to break
down half the engine assembly😡. (Ford & GM)
Some consider this replacement difficult.
I miss old school Fords. Crown Vic, you just unbolt it and swap for a new one. EZPZ
Did a ac condenser replacement on a crown vic. Took me 2X longer than a Toyota. Also a valve cover gasket replacement took me 3X longer and the plastic valve cover was cracked.
you work in Connecticut...
Memphis