You did it like a Pro, Boss. You may have said this but but one should use some sort of device (small stick, screwdriver) to confirm that the no 1 cylinder is at the top of it's stroke when everything is lines up- the reason I point this out is that I am working on a bike where someone overtightened ALL the tappets so NONE have any clearance! Thanks for the video.
This was the last step in the maintenance schedule of my 78 gl1000....and my man, you ROCKED the class on it!!! I confidently changed my t belts and set valves and the engine is running so much smoother and quieter! You would make Randakk proud 👨🏻🏫🏍️
Great videos thank you with very clear explanations. Just what I need as a beginner. Didn’t think I'd ever learn about tappet adjustment but this makes it look like a breeze
Mint video. Thank you so much! Almost finished rebuilding a GL1100 Standard which will be my first bike. Nowadays you don't even have to be a mechanic to do some stuff on your own, just internet access, patience and great advice like this.
Thanks so much Olizzker Lecraz. RUclips is an incredible learning tool when used correctly. Good luck on your GL1100 project, these are great old bikes to work on and have fun with.
Very informative instructional video. It will come in handy when I finally pick up my newly acquired ‘82 GL1100. I wish taking the engine out of the Goldwing was simpler so you could have great access to all this like you have with the power plant on a work table .
Hey, I've got a Valkyrie, but concept is the same. Just wanted to thank you for your easy to follow, concise and well articulated instruction. I know this stuff takes time to shoot, edit etc. You should know that folks who are not trained mechanics really do very much appreciate it. Thanks so much.
Not to try to tell you how to do anything but if you place a long screw drive into the number one spark plug socket when the number one is top dead center the screw driver will lift
Would be great to know if you can change camshaft and crankshaft seals on the front of the engine for the pullys that the timing belts ride on with the engine installed in the bike. I have a horrible oil leak iside there. Don't have the cover off yet but I know one or more of those seals has failed.Also can't find a procedure for doing this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Albert
all you have to make sure is that the eccentric on the cam lob is completely away from the valve rocker, you can do this with a flashlight and just peek in the center of the head and note the position of the lob, makes no difference, what order you do it in, as long as you know that the valve is closed and the eccentric on the cam shaft is not anywhere near the rocker arm. your way is correct, and you have the ability to do more than one valve at a time, but my way , does not matter what stroke your on,
Gery P Not necessarily, but it's a great time to check the valve adjustment. They may or may not need adjusting and the belts won't directly affect it.
You are quite knowledgeable with this engine. Can you please tell me if this is an interference engine or not ? I am looking at buying a 1979 Goldwing, it has spark, fuel and compression, but not running. What is the chance that it has hit a valve and piston by being out of time ? Or having a bad timing belt ?
quadsman11 It is absolutely an interference engine. I doubt that a piston has hit a valve, if that happened you would not have compression. The carburetors on these are infamously finicky but not too bad to work on. I would begin with checking the points and condenser on the ignition and I would also clean the carburetors and probably purchase a Randakk rebuild kit. Also, tons of great people and information over at Classic Goldwings forum.
@@btrapp37 Yep ! See what I mean ! Knowledgeable, and helpful ! I agree with you on the compression issue. But was a bit nervous about doing my own compression test for fear of damaging ! Can't agree with you more on the carbs ! This fuel is just a terrible thing I carbs these days for sure ! Thank you for your head's up on the forums !
quadsman11 I would pull the timing covers to inspect the belts visually. Also, you can turn the motor from the front then by hand to make sure everything spins freely before trusting the start or motor to do it. Belts will likely need to be checked and replaced anyway. It’s a great starter project and can all be done with the bike in the frame. Pulling the radiator makes it a lot easier too. All pretty easy if your patient and decent with a wrench.
@@btrapp37 Thank you again, By hand was my plan. Replacing the timing belts is how I found your RUclips site, So it would seem that you and I are on the same page for sure ! Thank you again !
@@btrapp37 As for the decent with a wrench, I am paralyzed from my shoulders down, and have no hand function whatsoever. Was a professional mechanic for Cat for a number of years before my injuries. So working with my shop mechanic here, and talking him through, step by step ! Which can be a bit frustrating once in a while. Especially when you know what to do, and how to do it ! But I manage ! And very grateful for a couple of very good mechanics working here with me !
Daughter's account - but Dad thinks this is a great tutorial. If I were a HS student my first stoner question would be "Why would you ever set the valves without removing the belt covers? I mean, changing belts is recommended at 35K intervals so why not set valves at the same time? Set valves = change belts." Just asking'?
If one were to have been doing other engine work or any work on the heads you may be required to readjust the valves. In my case I had the entire engine disassembled. Changing belts at the recommended interval is a great maintenance project, but one does not necessarily need to replace the belts every time the valves are adjusted. Thanks for the reply!
2 issues with your video. 1) you should have done it, not just explain it, for the people who have never adjusted valves before. 2) you didnt explain how to turn the crankshaft with the timing belt covers on when it's in the motorcycle, which is the only reason why I watched this video to find out. But I did learn about how to making sure about TDC on cylinde 1. But I will refer to my Honda manual, which is all I have at the moment, on how to turn the crankshaft with the timing covers on. But it is one of the best valve adjustment videos out there I've seen.
With the run switch in the OFF position and the bike in neutral, Bump the starter or turn the rear tire with the bike in 4th gear (it's easier to turn). Of course, with the rear tire off the ground. It also helps to remove the spark plugs. Also when adjusting the valves, be sure NOT to crank down too hard on the adjustment nuts. Make then tight but don't break them. And you should have some drag on the feeler gauge but not real tight. I always go back over them before I close it up.
I prefer to turn the engine from the crank instead of the alternator bolt. I find it much easier and you can get a larger wrench on it. Plus, if you accidentally loosen it you don't have to pull the engine out but with the alternator bolt you do.
You did it like a Pro, Boss. You may have said this but but one should use some sort of device (small stick, screwdriver) to confirm that the no 1 cylinder is at the top of it's stroke when everything is lines up- the reason I point this out is that I am working on a bike where someone overtightened ALL the tappets so NONE have any clearance! Thanks for the video.
This was the last step in the maintenance schedule of my 78 gl1000....and my man, you ROCKED the class on it!!! I confidently changed my t belts and set valves and the engine is running so much smoother and quieter! You would make Randakk proud 👨🏻🏫🏍️
@Korbin Krein thanks so much for the positive comment. Makes the time taken well worth while to know it’s helping folks out. Enjoy that bike!
Great videos thank you with very clear explanations. Just what I need as a beginner. Didn’t think I'd ever learn about tappet adjustment but this makes it look like a breeze
Dude, it's super easy!
@@btrapp37 Sure. Never done this before, or cam belts, or even an oil or coolant change!
Mint video. Thank you so much!
Almost finished rebuilding a GL1100 Standard which will be my first bike.
Nowadays you don't even have to be a mechanic to do some stuff on your own,
just internet access, patience and great advice like this.
Thanks so much Olizzker Lecraz. RUclips is an incredible learning tool when used correctly. Good luck on your GL1100 project, these are great old bikes to work on and have fun with.
Very knowledgeable information. I think I will tackle this job myself before I have my mechanic clean and sync the carbs.
Thanks it was very helpful video.
8years. Posted today showed and explained my questions
Glad to help!
Very informative instructional video. It will come in handy when I finally pick up my newly acquired ‘82 GL1100. I wish taking the engine out of the Goldwing was simpler so you could have great access to all this like you have with the power plant on a work table .
Great explanation. I was able to adjust my valves easily and quickly. Thank you.
By the way,
I am enjoying the way that you are presenting the information !
Very nice video series !
Thank you !
Hey, I've got a Valkyrie, but concept is the same. Just wanted to thank you for your easy to follow, concise and well articulated instruction. I know this stuff takes time to shoot, edit etc. You should know that folks who are not trained mechanics really do very much appreciate it. Thanks so much.
Greg Cremer Thanks a lot Greg. It was fun to do! Glad it helps you.
best explanation ever! thank you
Rick S Barnes thanks! I’m glad the video is helping folks out!
Gracias por la explicación muy buena, un saludo desde Bolivia
Thanks a lot, Just what I was looking for ! I have a GL1200 1984 great old Bike :-)
Glad it helped you our Kenny King
Can you do the valve adjustment and timing belt without unmounting the engine? Great videos, very informative.
Yes of course you can do the adjustments with the motor in the frame. I just happened to have it out because I was replacing the piston rings.
Very informative thanks for the video🇺🇸
Great and helpful videos. Me and my 79 GL1000 Thank you!
Matson Breakey you are most welcome! I am glad people are finding this tutorial useful
Thanks for share with us
Great VId. Helped me a lot!!! Thx
You are very welcome Andy.
Not to try to tell you how to do anything but if you place a long screw drive into the number one spark plug socket when the number one is top dead center the screw driver will lift
Would be great to know if you can change camshaft and crankshaft seals on the front of the engine for the pullys that the timing belts ride on with the engine installed in the bike. I have a horrible oil leak iside there. Don't have the cover off yet but I know one or more of those seals has failed.Also can't find a procedure for doing this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Albert
all you have to make sure is that the eccentric on the cam lob is completely away from the valve rocker, you can do this with a flashlight and just peek in the center of the head and note the position of the lob, makes no difference, what order you do it in, as long as you know that the valve is closed and the eccentric on the cam shaft is not anywhere near the rocker arm. your way is correct, and you have the ability to do more than one valve at a time, but my way , does not matter what stroke your on,
This is correct! Well said. With that being said, this is a very good video of belts and valve adjust!
South West Florida Aerial I have a 84 1200 Honda goldwing I blowed my moter I got a 84 1100 Honda goldwing motor will it fit my 1200 frame
Hi, thanks for the vid. My question is: do I neet to make valve adjustment after timing belt change ?
Gery P Not necessarily, but it's a great time to check the valve adjustment. They may or may not need adjusting and the belts won't directly affect it.
very well done. I would let you work on my bike. That is saying a great deal!
Thanks very much for the compliment David Falgout. Im gonna be doing the front end this spring so keep an eye out for those videos.
Thanks a bunch! :)
También sirve para regular las válvulas de la goldwing 1100 cc.?
The left side timing belt broke on mine so how would I get it back into time without pulling the engine
Hi bronko37 ,a question measures are .004 intake and exhaust ????
You are quite knowledgeable with this engine.
Can you please tell me if this is an interference engine or not ?
I am looking at buying a 1979 Goldwing, it has spark, fuel and compression, but not running.
What is the chance that it has hit a valve and piston by being out of time ?
Or having a bad timing belt ?
quadsman11 It is absolutely an interference engine. I doubt that a piston has hit a valve, if that happened you would not have compression. The carburetors on these are infamously finicky but not too bad to work on. I would begin with checking the points and condenser on the ignition and I would also clean the carburetors and probably purchase a Randakk rebuild kit. Also, tons of great people and information over at Classic Goldwings forum.
@@btrapp37
Yep !
See what I mean !
Knowledgeable, and helpful !
I agree with you on the compression issue.
But was a bit nervous about doing my own compression test for fear of damaging !
Can't agree with you more on the carbs !
This fuel is just a terrible thing I carbs these days for sure !
Thank you for your head's up on the forums !
quadsman11 I would pull the timing covers to inspect the belts visually. Also, you can turn the motor from the front then by hand to make sure everything spins freely before trusting the start or motor to do it. Belts will likely need to be checked and replaced anyway. It’s a great starter project and can all be done with the bike in the frame. Pulling the radiator makes it a lot easier too. All pretty easy if your patient and decent with a wrench.
@@btrapp37
Thank you again,
By hand was my plan.
Replacing the timing belts is how I found your RUclips site, So it would seem that you and I are on the same page for sure !
Thank you again !
@@btrapp37
As for the decent with a wrench,
I am paralyzed from my shoulders down, and have no hand function whatsoever.
Was a professional mechanic for Cat for a number of years before my injuries.
So working with my shop mechanic here, and talking him through, step by step !
Which can be a bit frustrating once in a while.
Especially when you know what to do, and how to do it !
But I manage !
And very grateful for a couple of very good mechanics working here with me !
The 4000 th clearance is for metal expansion when engine is hot.
I'm have trouble wit getting mine in. Its different from ur it has T 1 F
Daughter's account - but Dad thinks this is a great tutorial. If I were a HS student my first stoner question would be "Why would you ever set the valves without removing the belt covers? I mean, changing belts is recommended at 35K intervals so why not set valves at the same time? Set valves = change belts." Just asking'?
If one were to have been doing other engine work or any work on the heads you may be required to readjust the valves. In my case I had the entire engine disassembled. Changing belts at the recommended interval is a great maintenance project, but one does not necessarily need to replace the belts every time the valves are adjusted.
Thanks for the reply!
2 issues with your video. 1) you should have done it, not just explain it, for the people who have never adjusted valves before. 2) you didnt explain how to turn the crankshaft with the timing belt covers on when it's in the motorcycle, which is the only reason why I watched this video to find out. But I did learn about how to making sure about TDC on cylinde 1. But I will refer to my Honda manual, which is all I have at the moment, on how to turn the crankshaft with the timing covers on. But it is one of the best valve adjustment videos out there I've seen.
With the run switch in the OFF position and the bike in neutral, Bump the starter or turn the rear tire with the bike in 4th gear (it's easier to turn). Of course, with the rear tire off the ground. It also helps to remove the spark plugs. Also when adjusting the valves, be sure NOT to crank down too hard on the adjustment nuts. Make then tight but don't break them. And you should have some drag on the feeler gauge but not real tight.
I always go back over them before I close it up.
i Cant turn my engine using the alternator bolt. It feels very stiff and it will only strip the bolt :/
I prefer to turn the engine from the crank instead of the alternator bolt. I find it much easier and you can get a larger wrench on it. Plus, if you accidentally loosen it you don't have to pull the engine out but with the alternator bolt you do.
Hi there, thanks for de video.
Why are you American people always talk so damn much. Get to the point ;-)