496 Stroker Build PART THREE: Camshaft Installation
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this video I go over how to lubricate and install a camshaft. Don't forget to subscribe so you won't miss the build process!
Note: No camshafts were harmed in the making of this video.
All music used in this video were downloaded from RUclips's Audio Library.
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Glad to see it going in before the crank. Always did it this way for access.
My thoughts exactly, thanks for watching Dave!
the only tip easier than doing this, is to put the block down on its bellhousing area and "drop" the cam vertically in--let gravity help you get past the bearings without nicking 'em.
@@albertgaspar627 for sure, I just opted for this way to avoid taking it off then putting it back on the stand. Thanks for watching!
@@rcorn79135 I'm not sure when this changed nationwide. I'd think it was something seen on TV but must have been in some magazines.
Unfortunately oil doesnt offer the same break in protection as the 60's and 70's, back then a high idle for about 20 mins was sufficient, lots of people use the ZINC additive
I can't sleep at night knowing a flat tappet cam is in my 496. I would love using one but unfortunately with the oil that's available today it's a roll of the dice if it'll last. And considering my rotating assembly alone cost 3k I'm not taking any chances.
I understand your viewpoint and a lot of people share your opinion too. Personally, I think it is okay but the break in procedure is crucial! I think with the proper additives today's oil is sufficient enough for flat tappet cams. The small block (283) in the car that I'm building this engine for runs a flat tappet. Years later, all good still!
Nice build I'm changing out my cam in my 496 this month because low rpm driving like cruising around isn't fun. My current cam is New Elgin e1143p how does it compare to the one you installed? Do you recommend the one you used?
Thanks JMAGG! The engine isn't in the car yet but just looking at the specs compared to yours with the one I'm putting in, the Comp cam operating range seems to start a lot sooner (2300rpm) vs the advertised New Elgin cam (3200rpm) I believe that should help with drivability at a lower RPM range. You'll also want to make sure you have a stall converter and probably another vacuum source because there won't be much at idle! Hope this helps, would love to hear about your results!
@@Aidansbuilds thank you bro! I'll be following to see your build progress. 😎
@@JMAGG I appreciate the support! I'll keep the videos coming! 👊
you are one of the first builder that I have seen that installs the cam before the crank and pistons. it is much easier to install it that way. it is how i was taught back in high school auto shop. just a heads up. no modern off the shell oil has enough high-pressure lubricants to safely run a flat tappet cam. flat tappet cams require at least 1400 ppm ZDDP for safe operations. modern SN rate-oil can't contain more than 800ppm ZDDP to meet the SN rating specs. that cam will die in no time. when you do the break in, make sure to use a good break-in oil with a high amount of ZDDP. I prefer Brad Penn it is around 3000 ppm ZDDP. I use it for the first 30 minutes of break-in, then drain it, change the filter and refill it with more break in oil. run it for 500 miles and then change the oil and filter again to the oil you would normally run, however modern oil does not have enough zddp to support a flat tappet cam, so make sure you are using something like Ams Oil Z-rod with 1400 ppm zddp, Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 10w30 with 1600 ppm ZDDP, or my personal favorite is Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car oil, it has 2100 ppm ZDDP and an additive package the includes corrosion inhibitor for cars that are parked for long periods of time, it also works great for boat engines when they are exposed to moisture in the air the is being sucked into the engine or from the PCV system, Most of the big blocks i build go into boats or classic cars. I use Brad Penn for break in and the first 500 miles in a car or 10 hours of use in a boat, then switch to Lucas Hot Hod and Custom. I also only use wix or K&N oil filters.
I agree, there is nothing in the way. I will keep this info on hand when it is run time, there are so mamy different break in oils I did not have a particular one in mind just yet. Thank you!
BMT cam specs are just a bit bigger than my Erson 108* HI Flow cam , but I have a BBF. Sneak watching this at work. Good chop idle. Plenty low and mid range.
Good to hear, especially at low and mid range where I'm sure this engine will spend a lot of hours!
I used the big thumpr in my 355 but I up the rocker ratio to 1.6 from 1.5 on the intake and it made a difference, I could feel it pulling harder. It might work on your big block to go 1.8 from 1.7
Thanks Joe I will keep this in mind when it is time for the valve train! What do you think of the drivability with that cam?
@@Aidansbuilds It's not a daily driver but passes as a street cam, it gets peoples attention. The thumpr could be a daily driver. I grew up in the 60s when factory muscle ruled the streets, people droved them to worked every day. Of course you could get 105 octane for .50/gal back then. All the best.
The thumper series is the gayest, lowest power producing cam on the market! Hope everything goes well. Thx for posting progress....
Well the good thing is a cam is easy enough to switch out if I find I'm unhappy with it. Thanks for watching
maybe you're not aware of all the issue's with flat tappet cams nowadays.. You strait up can't trust them. There are MAJOR problems with cam/lifter failures... somethings wrong with metallurgy and or machining of the lifters and lobes. TRUST ME! DO NOT run a flat tappet cam! It's not worth the risk, just go roller!! I"M telling you DO NOT RUN A FLAT TAPPET CAM WETHER HYDRAULIC OR SOLID! ONLY RUN ROLLER!!
Do you find it's a problem with certain brands or just overall?
@@Aidansbuilds overall, there's something wrong in the industry right now post covid (China) Growing up 20-30-40 years ago nobody had these issue's... spend the money on a roller, they never half to be "broke in" just start the car and let it Idle.. Remember that just about everything comes from China... that should tell you something friend..
@@Aidansbuilds what I see is they aren't using a proper break in oil... standard oils have detergents in them that won't allow the zinc and other additives to properly cushion the break in... so... use a proper break in oil that has the zinc pre mixed...
@@scottsthaname1 and always put a zinc addative for your oil changes if you're running a flat tappet cam!
Adding zinc does nothing because of the detergents in modern oils... you need a proper break in oil that has it mixed in already like "Driven BR30 "... the logic of just add zinc that you are using is why people are destroying cams...