Very clear and informative explanation - particularly the importance of the chamfer and the reason not to twist the fitting as it is assembled. Thank you :)
Thank you, I watched this video last year before plumbing in my own pool. Very informative and to the point whilst still explaining the reasons why. Im not a plumber but after following this I had zero leaks when I did it. I’ve just watched again to refresh how it’s done as I’m replacing the only leak in the system after a year which was the flexi pipe that came with the filter pump! You’re website was the best place to get the pipes from too!
Hi there. Personally I prefer gel types such as Griffon and Tangit but I have used liquid types in the past and have never had any trouble with them. For some reason, perhaps because I started my pipe fitting days years ago with gel type, I just favour them.
@@PlasticPipeShopTV Alrighty! Also, I was told it is a good idea to rough up the end of the tube with some sand paper to help with adhesion, is this necessary?
Hi, thanks for the question. There are two types of "scraping". The first puts an angled "bevel" on the end of the pipe. This is critical as it allows the cement in the socket to be "compressed" into the joint as they are pushed together. If this was not done, the square cut end of the pipe can act as a blade and just push all the glue in front of it. Old pipes or ones that have been stored a long time should also be sandpapered or scraped where the cement is going to be applied (this also applies to very old fittings as the plastic will oxidise). This gets rid of any surface oxidised plastic or other contaminants and after using the cleaner, gives "virgin" plastic material on the pipe for the cement to soften and "weld". It should be remembered that the solvent weld process is not gluing (where a substance sticks to both materials, with a layer of glue in between holding them together)...instead it's a process where the cement melts and softens the surface of the plastic on the pipe and socket, so that when pushed together under pressure, they weld and form a new continuous layer of plastic between the two.
Applying primer is something that is a widespread practice in the USA but is very rarely done elsewhere. The purple primer you get in the USA is more aggressive than standard cleaner and does create a better "key" for the cement but normal cleaner is also fine, especially with the quality of modern day PVC and fittings and modern day cements. I think part of the reason it is still in use in the USA is that the purple colour shows that cleaner has been used, so when a buildings inspector comes to check the system, it shows that the joints have been assembled according to building regulations. I am not aware of anyone in the UK or Europe who uses primer on PVC pipe systems. It is sometimes used on CPVC (Corzan) pipework, as this type of pipe is designed to be more chemically resistant, but is still a very rarely used product. So in summary we would recommend that "cleaner" should always be used (on both pipe and cleaner) first to remove any surface contaminants and provide a key and then cement applied to both surfaces.
good common sense tips , thank you :) Is there any benefit to twisting the pipe after you have pushed it on all the way ? Some tips say turn it a half turn etc?
Hi, interesting video, i am using ABS pipe for my pond instead of PVC is the principle the same or is there anything i should watch for? Also i am unsure whether you can glue ABS to PVC my understanding was that you couldn't but there is a statement on your website that states you can if you use an ABS glue i am using Tangit ABS glue, will this work? Cheers
Hi there, using ABS instead of PVC is fine for your pond - if you think the temperature might drop below 4deg then ABS is the better choice over PVC as it is better suited to lower temperatures (PVC becomes more brittle at that kind of temperature). As for connecting ABS and PVC, you can join together using PVC cement, not ABS cement, as ABS cement doesn't melt the PVC enough to bond it together. Hope this helps.
Very clear and informative explanation - particularly the importance of the chamfer and the reason not to twist the fitting as it is assembled. Thank you :)
Listen to this man, do it his way, he is very clever.
Thank you, I watched this video last year before plumbing in my own pool. Very informative and to the point whilst still explaining the reasons why. Im not a plumber but after following this I had zero leaks when I did it. I’ve just watched again to refresh how it’s done as I’m replacing the only leak in the system after a year which was the flexi pipe that came with the filter pump! You’re website was the best place to get the pipes from too!
Hi Sam, thanks so much for the feedback, we are so glad to hear how well your project went! We're always happy to help🙂
Thank you. This was great. I like that you give reasons for your practices
Glad you liked the video! Thanks for the feedback.
Very informative instruction videos! These have been useful for one of our Client's projects.Jim Mackay, i4 Product Design, Edinburgh.
Cheers
Thanks for making this video, very informative.
Which in your opinion is better : gel or liquid type glues and why?
Thanks x)
Hi there. Personally I prefer gel types such as Griffon and Tangit but I have used liquid types in the past and have never had any trouble with them. For some reason, perhaps because I started my pipe fitting days years ago with gel type, I just favour them.
@@PlasticPipeShopTV Alrighty!
Also, I was told it is a good idea to rough up the end of the tube with some sand paper to help with adhesion, is this necessary?
@@NicolasSalencPBP Rough up the pipe if it is old pipe and then use pipe cleaner on it. If it’s new pipe, then just the cleaner is fine.
very good, thanks for the video
very helpful thank you
very useful video
Why would you scrape it?? Wouldn’t that make it loose frictional counterforce?
Hi, thanks for the question. There are two types of "scraping". The first puts an angled "bevel" on the end of the pipe. This is critical as it allows the cement in the socket to be "compressed" into the joint as they are pushed together. If this was not done, the square cut end of the pipe can act as a blade and just push all the glue in front of it. Old pipes or ones that have been stored a long time should also be sandpapered or scraped where the cement is going to be applied (this also applies to very old fittings as the plastic will oxidise). This gets rid of any surface oxidised plastic or other contaminants and after using the cleaner, gives "virgin" plastic material on the pipe for the cement to soften and "weld". It should be remembered that the solvent weld process is not gluing (where a substance sticks to both materials, with a layer of glue in between holding them together)...instead it's a process where the cement melts and softens the surface of the plastic on the pipe and socket, so that when pushed together under pressure, they weld and form a new continuous layer of plastic between the two.
Realy good information & video but Ive seen other video clips applying prime before gluing do adhisives in the uk not require priming
Applying primer is something that is a widespread practice in the USA but is very rarely done elsewhere. The purple primer you get in the USA is more aggressive than standard cleaner and does create a better "key" for the cement but normal cleaner is also fine, especially with the quality of modern day PVC and fittings and modern day cements. I think part of the reason it is still in use in the USA is that the purple colour shows that cleaner has been used, so when a buildings inspector comes to check the system, it shows that the joints have been assembled according to building regulations. I am not aware of anyone in the UK or Europe who uses primer on PVC pipe systems. It is sometimes used on CPVC (Corzan) pipework, as this type of pipe is designed to be more chemically resistant, but is still a very rarely used product. So in summary we would recommend that "cleaner" should always be used (on both pipe and cleaner) first to remove any surface contaminants and provide a key and then cement applied to both surfaces.
What’s the minimum time I can turn the water back on?
good common sense tips , thank you :) Is there any benefit to twisting the pipe after you have pushed it on all the way ? Some tips say turn it a half turn etc?
Hi. Once you have pushed it in you can turn it to line the fitting up. I don't think there is any other advantage of doing this apart from lining up.
What glue is best for water pressure systems such as swimming pool plant room pipework?
Hi there, our regular PVC glue would be fine. You can find it here: www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/Consumables_c_3095.html
Hi, interesting video, i am using ABS pipe for my pond instead of PVC is the principle the same or is there anything i should watch for? Also i am unsure whether you can glue ABS to PVC my understanding was that you couldn't but there is a statement on your website that states you can if you use an ABS glue i am using Tangit ABS glue, will this work? Cheers
Hi there, using ABS instead of PVC is fine for your pond - if you think the temperature might drop below 4deg then ABS is the better choice over PVC as it is better suited to lower temperatures (PVC becomes more brittle at that kind of temperature). As for connecting ABS and PVC, you can join together using PVC cement, not ABS cement, as ABS cement doesn't melt the PVC enough to bond it together.
Hope this helps.
@@PlasticPipeShopTV Cheers, thanks for the swift and helpful response
@@edlesboroughkoipondstevech3546 Happy to help!
No primer?
9:16 he agrees sheering is bad???????
Kaliset pvc 63mm 1pc kam lbo kam pc
Gib nomber uae